CHAPTER III.
(NORTH-EASTERN SUDAN.)
* * * * *
1.—NO. 6 STATION (S.G.R.) TO DERAHEIB.
BY COLONEL HON. M. G. TALBOT, R.E., DECEMBER, 1902.
[Sidenote: General.]
The road described below is only one of several that might have been taken, but I believe it is perhaps the most direct. The portions between No. 6 and Murrat, and along the Wadi Alagi must be common to all routes.
[Sidenote: Nature of road.]
There are no gradients on the road sufficiently steep to form a serious obstacle to laden camels, but there are a good many places after the Wadi Abu Bard is left, where the stony nature of the road is trying for the feet of plains camels, though the camels of the country seem to make nothing of it.
[Sidenote: Water.]
Water is scarce and not always good. If marching with hamla,[1] arrangements should be made to carry at least two nights’ water.
[Sidenote: Fuel and shade.]
Once the W. Telat Abda has been reached, fuel and shade can always be obtained with very little management. Till then there is practically no shade. No fuel between No. 6 and Murrat; a little between Murrat and W. Telat Abda.
[Sidenote: Grain.]
No grain is obtainable. Sheep and goats and some milk can be obtained wherever Arabs are met with. The position of the Arabs and their flocks depends on the season of the year, and the distribution of the previous year’s rainfall.
---------+---------------+---------------+---------------------------- | Hamda Hours. | Miles. | Place. +--------+------+--------+------+ Description. | Inter- |Total.| Inter- |Total.| |mediate.| |mediate.| | ---------+--------+------+--------+------+---------------------------- _No. 6 | — | — | — | — |No. 6 Station on Halfa- Station | | | | |Khartoum Railway, 127 miles (S.G.R.)_| | | | |from Halfa, and 1,555 feet | | | | |above sea level. | | | | | | | | | |British foreman. Telegraph | | | | |office. | | | | | | | | | |No station buildings nor | | | | |accommodation for persons | | | | |detained there. | | | | | | | | | |Well with steam pump gives | | | | |12,000 gallons daily. Water | | | | |contains some salts, but | | | | |drinkable. Nile water can be | | | | |obtained for small parties | | | | |from station supply. Some | | | | |“selem” bushes give firewood | | | | |and a little grazing for | | | | |camels. No inhabitants | | | | |except railway staff. No | | | | |supplies. | | | | | | | | | |Is the base of the staff of | | | | |the Egypt and Sudan Mining | | | | |Syndicate now developing Um | | | | |Nabari or Nabadi mine. | | | | | | | | | |The track, now pretty well | | | | |marked, makes straight for | | | | |the N. end of J. Keheli, | | | | |after rounding which it | | | | |makes for J. Mindara, | | | | |keeping a couple of miles to | | | | |the N. of it. Road | | | | |practically level and mostly | | | | |good trotting surface, | | | | |though sand a little heavy | 7 | 7 | — | — |in places. | | | | | | 3¼ | 10¼ | — | — |Road crosses a low saddle | | | | |and descends into one of the | | | | |branches of the Wadi Murrat, | | | | |amongst a lot of low tangled | | | | |hills. After following the | | | | |wadi for 300 yards or so, | | | | |another saddle is crossed to | | | | |cut off a bend, after which | | | | |the wadi is followed till it | | | | |joins the main wadi, just | | | | |before the fort of Murrat is | | | | |reached. | | | | | _Murrat_ | 1 | 11¼ | — | 34 |The engineer of the Egypt | | | | |and Sudan Mining Syndicate | | | | |has fitted a pump in one of | | | | |the wells in the wadi, which | | | | |gives cleaner, though not | | | | |less bitter water than | | | | |before. The Arabs and | | | | |Berberi servants drink it | | | | |uncomplainingly, but | | | | |Europeans are advised to | | | | |avoid it if they can. About | | | | |10 miles slightly N. of W. | | | | |up the main Wadi Murrat is | | | | |the site of the Um Nabari or | | | | |Nabadi mine, now being | | | | |developed by the Company. | | | | |Road quite easy along the | | | | |wadi. | | | | | | | | 1½ | 35½ |On leaving Murrat fort the | | | | |track keeps down the wadi | 1 | 12¼ | 1½ | 37 |for 1½ miles, then turns off | | | | |to the left over somewhat | | | | |stony ground, and, crossing | | | | |a saddle and the head of | | | | |another affluent of the Wadi | 1¾ | 14 | 4 | 41 |Murrat about 1½ miles | | | | |further on, descends easily | | | | |into the basin of the Wadi | | | | |Dayob. Across slightly | | | | |undulating ground, aiming | | | ½ | 41½ |just to the left of J. Abu | | | | |Dayob, a rocky sand-covered | | | | |hill (with a pillar on the | | | | |top) which, though only 200 | | | | |or 300 feet high, stands up | | | | |well amidst its | | | | |surroundings, and turns down | | | | |the wadi past its northern | | | | |foot. | | | | | | ½ | 14½ | ½ | 42 |Along the wadi passing a | | | | |gorge about 50 yards wide; | | | | |wadi then turns rather to | | | | |S.E. There is some camel | | | | |grazing here. | | | | | | | | | |Road now turns to left out | | | | |of wadi, and, after crossing | | | | |low ridges for about one | | | | |hour and passing near some | 1 | 15½ | — | — |“selem” bushes in one of the | | | | |wadis, enters a plain ½ to 1 | | | | |mile broad, and heads | | | | |generally for J. Kerar | | | | |Berar. | | | | | | ½ | 16 | 3¾ | 45¾ |Half-a-mile further on J. | | | | |Mosiai (pillar on top) is at | | | | |right angles about 1 to 2 | | | | |miles distant on left. | | | | | | 1½ | 17½ | — | — |Track leaves plain over low | | | | |ridges and descends by | 1 | 18½ | — | — |gentle slope obliquely to | | | | |Wadi Mosiai. There are a few | 1¾ | 20¼ | — | — |of the peculiar dom palms of | | | | |the country above where wadi | | | | |is struck, and a little | | | | |“selem” and some scrubby | | | | |plants below. Track keeps | | | | |down wadi generally, till it | | | | |gets well clear of the low | | | | |hills, when it turns half | | | | |left over open plain, good | | | | |going, and passes an | | | | |isolated patch of “selem” | | | | |bushes in Gabgaba. | | | | | W. | 2 | 22¼ | 16 | 61¾ |The bed of the Gabgaba is ¾ Gabgaba | | | | |to 1½ miles wide in places, | | | | |consisting of several | | | | |channels separated by flat | | | | |gravel. The bed itself is | | | | |sandy, honeycombed with rat | | | | |holes, and very bad going. | | | | |Immense quantities of the | | | | |“handal” plant grow in it, | | | | |and in years of good | | | | |rainfall dura is cultivated. | | | | | | | | | |Track, leaving the wadi half | | | | |right, keeps over a gravel | | | | |plain with gentle slopes | | | | |till it strikes the W. Telat | | | | |Abda just outside the low | 2¼ | 24½ | 6 | 67¾ |hills. | | | | | | | | | |There is plenty of “selem” | | | | |in the wadi, giving good | | | | |camel grazing and abundance | | | | |of firewood. | | | | | _Bir | 3 | 27½ | 8¼ | 76 |Track keeps up wadi, Telat | | | | |occasionally making short Abda_ | | | | |cuts to right to get better | | | | |going, as wadi is heavy in | | | | |places, to well at foot of | | | | |rather higher hill on left | | | | |bank which has two stone | | | | |pillars. | | | | | | | | | |The well gives good water, | | | | |but not very much of it. | | | | |About ¼ mile higher up under | | | | |the right bank where the | | | | |wadi forks is another well | | | | |generally used for watering | | | | |camels. From here the roads | | | | |to Abu Tabag and Naba | | | | |branch. That to Naba keeps | | | | |straight on, that is up the | | | | |right-hand branch of the | | | | |fork. Naba is about 17 miles | | | | |from Telat Abda, whence it | | | | |draws its drinking water. | | | | |Near Telat Abda well is a | | | | |sayal tree that gives good | | | | |shade. | | | | | | | | | |The track starts up the Khor | | | | |Liseiwi, or left-hand branch | | | | |of the fork, past the upper | | | | |well, but soon turns to | | | | |right from it to cut off a | | | | |corner, and drops into the | | | | |khor again at a water hole | | | | |(generally dry) under Jebel _J. | 3 | 30½ | 6 | 82 |Liseiwi (marked by a Liseiwi_ | | | | |pillar). | | | | | W. | 2 | 32½ | 6 | 88 |Keeps up khor and, crossing Abaraga | | | | |a low saddle, descends into | | | | |Wadi Abaraga. | | | | | | ¼ | 32¾ | ¾ | 88¾ |Keeps up wadi, which is well | | | | |wooded with selem, sayal and | | | | |the single-stemmed fan palm | | | | |(_Medemia argun_), and | ½ | 33¼ | 1½ | 90¼ |passes some wells close | | | | |under left bank. The wadi | | | | |flows through very broken | | | | |low hills, 200 to 400 feet | | | | |high. | | | | | | 1¼ | 34½ | 3½ | 93¾ |Track issues on to open | | | | |space where the hills recede | | | | |and wadis come in from all | | | | |directions. | | | | | | — | — | 4 | 97¾ |Track now turns N.E., | | | | |passing between some low | | | | |hills over gravelly plain, | — | — | 4¼ | 102 |and turns S.E. up wadi, now | | | | |confined between rounded | | | | |reddish hills. The palms | | | | |have now ceased, but selem | | | | |is still found. The hills | | | | |soon get lower and wadi less | | | | |confined. | | | | | | — | — | 4½ | 106½ |A track from Hesmet Omar. | | | | | | — | — | 2¼ | 108¾ |Saddle at head of Wadi | | | | |Abaraga is reached, easy | | | | |ascent and descent commenced | | | | |over gently sloping gravel Wadi Abu | 7¾ | 42¼ | 2¼ | 111 |to the Wadi Abu Bard which Bard | | | | |flows through an open valley | | | | |2 to 3 miles wide. Plenty of | | | | |wood in wadi. | | | | | | — | — | 2 | 113 |The same direction is | | | | |continued across the wadi | — | — | 3½ | 116½ |till a low saddle is | | | | |crossed, and track descends | | | | |a branch of Abu Bard for a | | | | |little more than a mile; | | | | |then across an open space | | | | |N.E. up an affluent of the | | | | |same branch till it crosses | | | | |a low saddle at its head and | | | | |descends into an affluent of | | | | |the Wadi Hesmet Omar. This | | | | |part is very stony and | | | | |severe on plains camels, | | | | |though the gradients are not | | | | |heavy. The track keeps down | | | | |the valley, crossing a | | | | |couple of affluents bounded | | | | |by low hills, till it | | | | |reaches another low, but | | | | |stony saddle, whence it | | | | |descends into and crosses an | | | | |affluent of the Wadi Abu | | | | |Tabag or Wadi Ga; after | — | — | 5 | 121½ |another 2 miles of stony | | | | |ground the track descends | — | — | 2 | 123½ |into another branch of the | | | | |Abu Tabag wadi, which it _Abu | 5½ | 47¾ | 2 | 125½ |follows till it reaches the Tabag_ | | | | |well. | | | | | | | | | |The valley opens out a bit | | | | |here, though immediately | | | | |over the well there are low | | | | |hills which still carry the | | | | |breastworks erected by | | | | |Beshir Bey’s men as a | | | | |protection against | | | | |dervishes. | | | | | | | | | |The well is about 20 feet | | | | |deep, of which the lower 12 | | | | |feet, is revetted with | | | | |stone. Plenty of water. Many | | | | |small partridges. | | | | | | | | | |An Inspector’s rest house | | | | |has been built here. Some | | | | |fine sayal trees. | | | | | | | | | |There are a number of dom | | | | |palms trying to come up, but | | | | |none have succeeded in | | | | |showing any trunk yet. | | | | | | | | | |The wadi here is, I believe, | | | | |called the Wadi Ga, but I am | | | | |not sure. | | | | | Wadi Ga | — | — | 2 | 127½ |The track continues down the | | | | |wadi for 2 miles and turns | | | | |off to the left over flat | | | | |and undulating ground; easy | | | | |going for some miles, the | 4¼ | 52 | 10 | 137½ |general direction being a | | | | |little to the left of J. | | | | |Kirmai, crosses the Wadi Ga | | | | |(plenty of selem) and cuts | | | | |over a low saddle at the | | | | |north end of Kirmai. | | | | | Wadi Abu | — | — | 2 | 139½ |After about 2 more miles, Kitabab | | | | |heavy going, over sand- | | | | |covered ridges the track | | | | |descends into the Wadi Abu | | | | |Kitabab, which joins the | | | | |Wadi Ga about 1½ miles below | | | | |where the track crosses it. | | | | |There are plenty of trees of | | | | |several different sorts. | | | | | | 2 | 54 | 3 | 142½ |Road continues up wadi for 3 | | | | |miles to a point where it | | | | |forks. | | | | | | | | | |The southern branch is also | | | | |called Abu Kitabab. The | | | | |track to Sohanit and Onib, | | | | |viâ _Mashushenai well_ (very | | | | |little water), ascends it. | | | | |The other branch is called | | | | |Ebeirid. After ascending it | — | — | 4 | 146½ |for 4 miles, low saddle is | | | | |crossed; after 4½ more miles | | | | |of mostly very stony ground, | | | | |ending in a short and very Wadi | 3½ | 57½ | 4½ | 151 |rough descent, the Wadi Abdelala | | | | |Abdelala is reached. This | | | | |wadi is here well wooded. | | | | |Lots of marakh. The track | | | | |ascends it a short distance | | | | |and then turns up a side | | | | |khor, out of it to left into | | | | |another and over an easy | | | | |saddle down into Wadi Bitna | | | | |or Butna; confined bed, high | | | | |hills on right bank. | | | | | | 1½ | 59 | 4½ | 155½ |Top of Mashushenai just | | | | |visible, a few selem and a | | | | |good many samr trees. | | | | | | | | | |Track keeps down wadi, | | | | |cutting off one or two | | | | |corners, stony, but not very | | | | |bad going. The bed gets | | | | |narrower and low cliffs more | | | | |perpendicular till wells are | | | | |reached at a place where a | | | | |projecting cliff appears to | | | | |bar the passage. Just before | | | | |reaching it some tombs are _Wells_ | 1½ | 60½ | 4 | 159½ |passed. | | | | | | | | | |There are two wells or water | | | | |holes about 5 feet in | | | | |diameter, surface of water 6 | | | | |feet below bed of wadi. Lots | | | | |of good water. | | | | | | | | | |The track continues, | | | | |original direction, for | | | | |about ½ mile and then turns | | | | |E., and a mile further on | | | | |meets the Wadi Elei coming | | | | |from the S.E. The united | | | | |wadi now flows a little E. | | | | |of N., the hills diminish | | | | |and the valley increases in | | | | |width and the vegetation | | | | |decreases. After 2 miles the | | | | |track turns off to right, up | | | | |what was a good track a year | | | | |or so ago, but is now barred | | | | |by waves of sand. After some | | | | |three miles, most part of | | | | |which is very heavy going, | | | | |the track descends into the | | | | |broad and ill defined bed of | | | | |an affluent of the Wadi | 2 | 62½ | 4½ | 164 |Elei. Little grazing. | | | | | | | | | |Over bare undulating plain, | | | | |dotted with hummocky ridges | | | | |of decomposed granite more | 3½ | 66 | 10 | 174 |or less covered with sand. | | | | |Good going till a low and | | | | |easy watershed is crossed Wadi | 1¼ | 67¼ | 3 | 177 |and track descends easily to Nasari | | | | |Wadi Nasari, a broad well | | | | |wooded wadi that comes from | | | | |Jebel Sohanit, and joins the Wadi | 1½ | 68¾ | 4 | 181 |Alagi a few miles N. of Alagi | | | | |where the track strikes it. | | | | |Track crosses wadi in the | | | | |direction of Jebel Eigat | | | | |and, passing through some | | | | |low hills, reaches the Wadi | | | | |Alagi. Track quite easy. | | | | | | | | | |The Wadi Alagi here is at | | | | |least ½ mile wide, bounded | | | | |by low hills on both banks, | | | | |but rising higher behind on | | | | |the right bank. It contains | | | | |many refreshingly green | | | | |trees of several sorts, | | | | |marakh, heglig, sayal, sidr, | | | | |arak, &c. | | | | | _Wadi | 2 | 70¾ | 6 | 187 |Up wadi, which narrows to Taimurit_| | | | |about 300 to 400 yards. It | | | | |is joined on the left bank | | | | |by a khor called Taimurit, | | | | |up which there is a | | | | |waterhole, good water. On | | | | |the right bank opposite it | | | | |is a hill conspicuously | | | | |higher than the majority of | | | | |those that overhang the | | | | |wadi. | | | | | | | | | |On both banks are remains of | | | | |houses, and a quartz reef is | | | | |conspicuous on the left | | | | |bank. The latitude of | | | | |junction of Taimurit and | | | | |Alagi is 22° 1′ 11″, so | | | | |most, if not all, the reef | | | | |is north of 22°. It shows | | | | |marks of having been | | | | |prospected. | | | | | _Wadi | 1 | 71¾ | 3 | 190 |One hour further on, where Neshd_ | | | | |the wadi changes the | | | | |direction of its flow from | | | | |S.W. to N.W., some tombs | | | | |close under the right bank | | | | |are a landmark for the Wadi | | | | |Neshd, which comes in on the | | | | |left bank opposite. There is | | | | |good water in the Wadi | | | | |Neshd. | | | | | | | | | |The wadi now begins to wind | | | | |more. Two hours further on _Wadi | 2 | 73¾ | 6 | 196 |the Wadi Kamotit on right Kamotit_ | | | | |bank is passed. There is | | | | |good water a short way up | | | | |it. | | | | | Deraheib | 4¼ | 78 | 12 | 208 |The wadi now begins to | | | | |wriggle about without, | | | | |however, much decreasing in | | | | |width. The hills on either | | | | |side continue to be of no | | | | |great height, and in one or | | | | |two places the track crosses | | | | |low saddles to cut off | | | | |corners; good trees all the | | | | |way. | | | | | | | | | |At Deraheib is a ruined | | | | |castle of stone set in mud, | | | | |with two or three pointed | | | | |arches set in lime. Another | | | | |building of nearly equal | | | | |size in plan, but not so | | | | |high, and the ruins of a | | | | |number of houses and | | | | |shelters are on the left | | | | |bank. On the right bank, | | | | |nearly opposite, are a | | | | |number of ruined stone | | | | |houses arranged in streets, | | | | |and covering 3 to 4 acres. | | | | |They are built in stone and | | | | |mud, but a few arches in | | | | |lime are to be seen. The | | | | |ruins are evidently greatly | | | | |filled in and might possibly | | | | |repay excavation. There are | | | | |small stone shelters of the | | | | |same kind up various khors. _Water_ | — | — | — | — |The _nearest water_ now is 2 | | | | |or 3 miles off up a wadi | | | | |that joins the left bank of | | | | |the Alagi about 1½ miles | | | | |further up. | | | | | | | | | |The latitude of the N.W. | | | | |corner of the ruined castle | | | | |is 21° 56′ 48·5″. | | | | | | | | | |On the low hills on left | | | | |bank, within ½ mile of the | | | | |fort, are a number of shafts | | | | |sunk in the reef which is | | | | |here very apparent. In | | | | |December there were very few | | | | |Arabs in the Wadi Alagi. In | | | | |the summer there are many. | | | | | | | | | |The rate of the hamla has | | | | |been taken at 2½ to 3 miles | | | | |per hour, as, I think, my | | | | |camels went. Neither times | | | | |nor distances, therefore, | | | | |can be relied on absolutely. ---------+--------+------+--------+------+----------------------------
2.—SUAKIN TO BERBER.
[Sidenote: Roads.]
There are two main routes between Suakin and Berber, both joining at Obak. The first, _viâ_ Tambuk—Dissibil—Kokreb—Ariab and Obak, the most northerly of the two, is the usual caravan route. Major Prout (1877) states that “this route is quite practicable for wagons, the greater part of it being indeed an admirable road for wheels; some difficulty would, however, be found in getting wagons over the passes of Hareitri and Kokreb, and the dunes of Obak. At these three points some work, not much, but rather expensive, would have to be done to make the route a good wagon road.” The chief difficulty lies in the arid stretch of 114 miles between Ariab and Berber, for which Obak, lying about halfway, provides the only water.
The second route, _viâ_ Sinkat—Hormareb—Amet—Rowaya and Obak is 5 or 6 miles shorter, but not so well known. It is occasionally used by caravans, but although the water supply is good, the road is bad about Sinkat.
(α) NORTHERLY ROUTE.[2]
MAJOR W. S. SPARKES, OCTOBER, 1897, AND DECEMBER AND JANUARY, 1897-98.
--------------+--------------------+---------------------------------- | Miles. | Place. +-------------+------+ Description. |Intermediate.|Total.| --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- Suakin | — | — |Road runs in north-westerly | | |direction alongside formation | | |level of old Suakin-Berber | | |railway. Good road, and easy going | | |through scrub, with mimosa and | | |acacia trees. Plain covered with | | |camels and flocks of goats | | |grazing. Gentle rise all way to | | |Handub. | | | _Handub Well_ | 10 | 10 |Water here practically unlimited, | | |slightly brackish; good camp | | |ground, fuel, and grazing for | | |camels. Water about 20 feet down. | | | | 3 | 13 |Track enters hills, which | | |gradually close in on either side, | | |going still good and gentle rise. | | | _Otao Well_ | 6 | 19 |Two wells here, giving good water, | | |holes in ground, could be easily | | |developed, at present sufficient | | |for two companies infantry and | | |their transport. Formation level | | |of old railway ends here. | | | _Tambuk Well_ | 5 | 24 |Good water, supply practically | | |unlimited, now three wells, would | | |be easily increased. Good camp | | |ground, fuel and grazing. Gazelle, | | |hares, partridges, and doves along | | |road, Handub and Tambuk. Water in | | |wells about 15 feet down. | | | | 2 | 26 |To here going stony and rough, | | |then through a short defile, and | | |somewhat better; trees and shrubs | | |all along. | | | Khor Ossaud | 5 | 31 |A sudden, short, sharp ascent, a | | |½-mile level, stony ground, Olip | 1 | 32 |without a shrub, and down to Khor | | |Ossaud broad khor, full of trees, | | |&c.; excellent going. | | | Khor Adit | 1 | 33 |Khor Adit, the main khor from | | |Sinkat, which is about 20 miles | | |distant, meets Khor Ossaud. Some | | |gazelles, many doves in this khor, | | |also numerous herds, goats and | | |camels grazing. Junction of khor, | | |called Olip. | | | | 3 | 36 |Track bends suddenly to right, and | | |crosses a short and easy “agaba,” | | |or pass. This is a short cut, main | | |khor could be followed, and pass | | |avoided, if necessary. This would | | |make good halting place for | | |infantry. It is 15 miles from | | |Tambuk; plenty fuel and grazing. | | |No water, but probably could be | | |found if sunk for. | | | _Dissibil | 7 | 43 |One large well, which is merely (well)_ | | |hole scooped in ground, gives | | |plentiful supply good water; | | |similar water holes could be dug | | |without difficulty, and supply | | |water practically unlimited; good | | |camp ground, fuel, and grazing. | | | | | |Dissibil khor full of trees and | | |shrubs; many gazelle and rock | | |grouse and doves. | | | | 4 | 47 |Track crosses small pass or agaba, | | |thence runs under high mountains | | |on left hand, called Jebel Tamei. | | |Chain of low stone hills on right, | | |going fair all time. | | | Odrus | 7 | 54 |Track debouches on wide open | | |plain, perhaps 15 miles by 10, | | |called Wadi Odrus; is covered with | | |coarse grass and stunted mimosa. | | |Gradual rise up to here, now | | |gentle descent to centre of Wadi | | |Odrus, where a narrow khor known Tekarti | 6 | 60 |as Tekarti. In good rain season | | |considerable quantity of dura is | | |grown along edge of this khor, but | | |on Dissibil side and to eastwards | | |only. Several well-grown trees | | |along edge of khor. This is 15 | | |miles from Dissibil, and would | | |make suitable halting place for | | |infantry. No water, except after | | |rains; good camp ground, fuel, and | | |grazing. A gradual rise from here. | | | | 3¼ | 63¼ |On right of track, under low hill, | | |several stone huts of Hamdab | | |tribe. | | | | 2 | 65¼ |Wadi Odrus ends and track crosses | | |outlying stony ridges of Amud | | |range. | | | | 2 | 67¼ |A sharp gradient and highest point | | |of whole route is reached 2,870 | | |feet above sea level. A sharp | | |descent by about ¾ mile of rocky | | |agaba or pass, which, however, | | |presents but little difficulty to _Khor Hareitri| ¾ | 68 |passage of all arms, leads to Khor (well)_ | | |Hareitri, a rather narrow defile (Tamai) | | |between high stone hills. Stony, | | |baddish going, full of sunt or | | |mimosa trees, and patches of | ¾ | 68¾ |coarse grass. Three-quarters mile | | |up khor is well, known as Bir | | |Tamai by some, by others as simply | | |Hareitri, a stone revetted well, | | |giving good water about 12 feet | | |down, rough wood huts on other | | |side of well. | | | _Adel Aweb_[3]| 3¼ | 72 |Rain pools found all along edges | | |of khor, and 3 miles from Tamai a | | |very large deep pool, giving any | | |quantity good water. Natives say | | |pools all disappear in winter a | | |few months after rain ceases, but | | |wells could be sunk with success | | |anywhere in khor. The big pool | | |above called by natives Adel Aweb. | | |Good grazing and fuel here, | | |indifferent camp ground on account | | |of stones. Rock grouse and doves | | |in khor, which is about 5 miles | | |long. | | | | 1 | 73 |Hareitri defile ends, and wide | | |open plain called Wadi Tisartem is | | |reached. Here dura is cultivated. | | | | 1½ | 74½ |A few huts on right, and some dura | | |grown in good rain season, a good | | |camp ground near here, fuel and | | |grazing, but no water, though not | | |impossible, might be found. | | | | 4 | 78½ |Track crosses low rough ridges for | | |½ mile. | | | _Salalat | ½ | 79 |Khor Haab thick with fair-sized (well)_ | | |trees, a sandy plain. Two and | | |a-half miles off track, to left or | | |south, is Bir Salalat, two wells, | | |partially revetted wood, water | | |good, about 40 feet down. Supply | | |limited, each well could, perhaps, | | |supply 600 gallons, and would then | | |require three hours to refill, | | |more wells could easily be sunk. | | |Good camp ground, fuel and | | |grazing, and some fair-sized trees | | |near wells. These wells cannot be | | |relied on as permanent. In 1903 | | |they had been dry for 2 years. | | | | 3½ | 82½ |A slight rise brings track to | | |level plateau of gravelly trap, | | |smooth and firm, no vegetation, | | |leading down to Khor Furd. | | | | 2½ | 85 |A very large patch cultivation | | |dependent on rainfall, nothing | | |could be grown this year. | | | | 5½ | 90½ |Across a neck, high irregular- | | |shaped rocky hill few hundred | | |yards to right, large black | | |boulder to left. Quarter mile | | |further is level, open, gravelly | | |piece of ground, suitable for | | |camp, with fuel and grazing, but | | |no water. From here vegetation | | |gradually ceases. | | | | 2 | 92½ |Cross neck of Iglaladat, outlying | | |ridge with high mass of rock on | | |left. From here hills close in and | | |track along base of outlying spurs | | |and ridges. | | | Khor Kokreb | 3½ | 96 |Agaba or pass leading to Khor | | |Kokreb begins, a descent, a slight | | |rise, then a steep and rocky, but | | |not difficult, piece, in all about | | |½ mile, and khor is entered; ½ _Hayaba | 1 | 97 |mile on and well called Hayaba, a (well)_ | | |hole in ground, water a few feet | | |down and good, only one hole at | | |present, but others could be dug | | |in very short time, giving a | | |practically unlimited supply. | | |Rough wooden hut and Arab grave, | | |and on left of well good camp | | |ground, water, fuel, and grazing. | | | _Sarbit | 1½ | 98½ |Revetted stone well, good water (well)_ | | |about 10 feet down, sufficient for | | |battalion, good ground, fuel, and | | |grazing. | | | | 4 | 102½ |Track, now well to right of khor, | | |runs over a neck between small | | |rocky hills for short way, then | | |sand, then rocks, with graveyards | | |on each side; ½ mile on and low | | |rocky chain hides main khor from | | |track, hills gradually close in. | | | | 1½ | 104 |Hills now come in from north at | | |right angles to track, and appear | | |to entirely block up khor; under | | |these hills was situated the | | |Dervish post of Osman Digna. A | | |collection of tukuls, sufficient | | |for about 200 men, and surrounded | | |by a thick thorn zariba; clear, | | |level space, some 700 yards to | | |front and flanks, within 200 yards | | |of hills at back; a well enough | | |chosen position as regards | | |covering road from Suakin. A | | |narrow and short defile on extreme | | |left affords an exit, and khor | | |again widens somewhat. | | | _El Matar | 1½ | 105½ |A hole scooped in ground, good (well)_ | | |water a few feet down, enough for | | |half battalion at present, but | | |could be quickly increased by | | |digging other holes. Camp ground, | | |grazing, and fuel here. Track now | | |bends to left and crosses neck | | |between two old graveyards. | | | _Abd El Haabit| 1½ | 107 |Two wells here, about ½ mile (well)_ | | |apart, one on track, other ½ mile | | |to left. The one on track a hole | | |in khor, good water, limited | | |supply, enough for about 100 | | |camels, before refilling in two | | |hours. Other revetted stone, now | | |dry, but could easily be reopened. | | | | | |All these four last wells in Khor | | |Kokreb, which is wide, full of | | |trees and shrubs, with stony hills | | |here and there, many gazelle, | | |doves and rock grouse. Track | | |follows khor in all about 10 | | |miles, when it branches to right. | | | | | |Track now enters wide open plain | | |of black stone, but good going, | | |bare but for few stunted mimosa, | | |and coarse patches of grass. | | | | 5 | 112 |Stone ceases, and firm sand takes | | |its place. | | | | 2½ | 114½ |Track bends to right among patches | | |of huge boulders. | | | | | |Directly after entering Agortitweb | | |Plain, a black hill, surmounted by | | |what appears to be two tower-like | | |masses of rock, makes an excellent | | |landmark, as tracks leads straight | | |on to it. | | | Lagag Aweb[4] | 1½ | 116 |Above-mentioned landmark is (called by | | |passed, it lies to left of road, natives half | | |and on close inspection becomes a way to Berber)| | |smooth, oval base of rock, with | | |irregular mass at approach end, | | |while other block dissolves into | | |two huge boulders, one with a | | |considerable lean to east. Pass | | |between this, which is called | | |Lagag Aweb, on left, and a smaller | | |rocky hill on right, is considered | | |by natives as half way to Berber. | | | | | |Track now winds for 2 miles round | | |base of low stony hills, crosses a | | |neck, then on left a strip of | | |coarse grass and stunted mimosa, | | |bearing away to left, while hills | | |on left also spread away. For some | | |way further, track winds along | | |base of hills on right, when they | | |also spread away, and the stony Wadi Yungul or| 2½ | 118½ |plain called Wadi Yungul is K. Yomga | | |reached, going good. Good camp | | |grounds, but indifferent grazing, | | |and no water or fuel in Wadi | | |Yungul. Yungul Plain ceases, track | | |winds to right between low stony | | |hills. A little over 1 mile and | 6½ | 125 |narrow khor, with few trees and | | |coarse grass, is crossed, then | | |again winds through low hills. Two | | |connected hillocks of white marble | | |being a prominent feature | | |immediately to left of track. | | | | 3 | 128 |The Ariab valley is entered, it is | | |thick with scrub and fair-sized | | |trees, with numerous herds, goats, | | |&c. The hills stretch away on | | |either side. Natives report there | | |is a well called Makardi off track | | |to left under the hills, but that | | |it gives but little water. | | | _Ariab[5] | 3 | 131 |Three miles up valley are Ariab (well)_ | | |wells. One large stone-revetted in | | |centre of khor, giving practically | | |unlimited supply, excellent water. | | |Water about 20 feet down. 150 | | |yards from this well are two | | |others, also revetted, stone one | | |gives plentiful supply, other | | |partially choked for want of use. | | |Good camp ground, grazing, water | | |and fuel. Many of gazelle, doves, | | |and rock grouse in valley. Track | | |now leaves Khor Ariab on right, | | |and goes south-west through black | | |stone hills, low on right, high on | | |left, somewhat bad going. | | | | | |Level plain, covered tufts coarse | | |grass, half stony, half sandy, | | |good going. | | | | | |Through low hills, rather bad | | |going. | | | Wadi Barud | — | — |Wide level plain, covered coarse | | |grass, good going. | | | Wadi O’Duruk | — | — |Level plain, good going, some | | |coarse scrub, stunted trees. | | | | | |Track leaves O’Duruk on right and | | |passes to left of, and immediately | | |below, a high stone hill, across a | | |small khor, and then winds among | | |low stone hills. | | | Wadi Temartua | — | — |Good going, partly firm sand, | | |partly stony. | | | Khor Laiameb | 44 | 175 |A broad khor running about east | | |and west, almost at right angles | | |to track. Said to contain pools | | |after rain, about 4 miles to west | | |of track. Small mimosa trees and | | |coarse grass; water might be found | | |if sunk for. Track after crossing | | |Khor Laiameb again goes over hilly | | |stony ground. | | | Jebel O’Fik | 2½ | 177½ |On right of track country open and | | |level again, a few trees and some | | |grass here. | | | Wadi Tatua | — | — |After passing Jebel O’Fik the Wadi | | |Tatua is entered; sandhills, &c., | | |in khor; Obak can be seen in | | |distance; good going. | | | | 5½ | 183 |Across a low ridge, going still | | |good. | | | | | |Plain becomes covered with small | | |mimosa bushes; 1½ miles through | | |these bushes and Obak sandhills | | |and drifts are entered. | | | _Obak (well)_ | 9 | 192 |Large new well, gives 2,000 | | |gallons when full; takes 10 hours | | |to refill. Water slightly | | |brackish. Natives say that there | | |were formerly 50 or 60 of these | | |wells, but have fallen in from | | |want of use. Wells, revetted wood; | | |water about 40 feet down. | | |Indifferent camp ground, some | | |grazing and fuel. | | | | | |For 3 miles after Obak track lies | | |through heavy sand over hills and | | |drifts, then good level going, | | |only occasional sand. | | | | 14 | 206 |Some trees and grass here; | | |suitable camp ground; water might | | |possibly be found. Site of | | |proposed well. | | | Jebel Eremit | 2 | 208 |A low granite hill on left of | | |track. | | | Abu Odfa | 5 | 213 |Curious-shaped mass of rock on | | |right of track. | | | Wadi Abu Selim| 21 | 234 |Some trees and grass; water could | | |probably be found. Site of | | |proposed well. | | | _Maho Bey | 11 | 245 |Good revetted well, 40 feet down, (well)_ | | |covered by mud brick fort; | | |excellent water, practically | | |unlimited supply, good camping | | |ground, fuel and grazing. | | | Berber | 6 | 251 |Except for first 3 miles all going | | |from Obak to Berber excellent. --------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
SUMMARY OF WELLS ON NORTHERLY ROUTE.
-------------+--------+--------------------------------------------- Name of well.|Distance| Description. | apart. | -------------+--------+--------------------------------------------- | Miles. | | | Handub | 10[6]|Slightly brackish, unlimited supply. | | Otao | 9 |One well, hole in khor; good water could | |be developed. | | Tambuk | 5 |Good water about 15 feet down, unlimited | |supply. | | Dissibil | 19 |One well, good water hole in khor, at | |present (1898) sufficient half battalion | |and transport; could be increased at will. | | Tamai | 25 |In Khor Hareitri; well also by some | |called Hareitri. Stone, revetted, about | |12 feet deep, good water; well itself | |sufficient for half battalion and | |transport, but supply easily increased. | |Rain pools all along Khor Hareitri; one | |very large and deep called Adelaweb, 3 | |miles from Tamai. | | Salalat | 11 |One and a-half miles to left of road, two | |wells, revetted stone, one practically | |choked. Good water about 40 feet down, | |limited supply, enough for 50 camels, and | |takes 2 hours to refill. | | Hayaba | 18 |Hole in sand, 4 feet deep, met | |immediately on entering Khor Kokreb; good | |water, supply practically unlimited, as | |similar holes can be dug in very short | |time. | | Sarbit | 1½ |In Khor Kokreb, good water about 10 feet | |down, revetted stone. | | Matar | 7 |Hole in khor, still Kokreb, good water, | |supply half battalion, but could be | |developed. Former watering place of | |Dervish Kokreb post 1½ miles off. | | Id El Haabit | 1½ |Hole in khor, good water, sufficient half | |battalion, could be developed. | | Ariab | 24 |One very large well, revetted stone, good | |water about 20 feet down; two smaller, | |also revetted stone, one now choked. | |Water sufficient at present for one | |battalion and transport, and could be | |developed. | | Obak | 61 |One large stone revetted well, giving | |excellent supply of good water. | | Maho Bey | 52 |Large stone revetted well, good water, | |large supply. -------------+--------+---------------------------------------------
(β)—BERBER TO SUAKIN (SOUTHERLY ROUTE).
The mileage is estimated by pace of camels, and there appears to be but little difference between the northerly and southerly routes; the Arabs, however, call the south road the longer.
Water supply is quite equal to that on north road, and all wells, being more or less deep sunk, do not get fouled by animals drinking direct from them, as is the case with surface wells, such as Dissibil, Hayaba, &c. These wells are also much more used by Arabs for watering their flocks than those on other track, and, without exception, they are surrounded by diruks, or earth-made drinking pans, which are scarce on other road.
A long rope and deluk, or native sort of bucket of thin hide, would be required at each well.
For movements of troops the north road is infinitely to be preferred, as going throughout is comparatively easy for all arms. On south road, numerous agabas, or passes over the hills, make going hard and difficult. The big agaba between Sinkat and Tamaneb is almost impossible for wheeled artillery.
(β) SOUTHERLY ROUTE, _viâ_ OBAK, RAUAI, KHOR ARAB, AND SINKAT.
BY MAJOR W. S. SPARKES, NOVEMBER, 1897.
--------------+--------------------+---------------------------------- | Miles. | Place. +-------------+------+ Description. |Intermediate.|Total.| --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- Berber | — | — | | | | _Maho Bey_ | 6 | 6 |_Vide_ report on north road. | | | Khor Abu Selim| 11 | 17 | „ „ | | | Abu Odfa | 21 | 38 | „ „ | | | Eramit | 5 | 43 | „ „ | | | _Obak Wells_ | 16 | 59 | „ „ | | | Ofik | 14 | 73 | „ „ | | | | 4½ | 77½ |Track to Rauai branches away to | | |right. Also a track to Rauai a few | | |miles after leaving Obak. | | | | 1½ | 79 |Through low stony hills and Khor | | |Laiameb is struck; track runs | | |straight along khor. Going good; a | | |gradual rise; Khor Wusser runs | | |side by side with Laiameb, and | | |appears to form part of it. | | | | 17 | 96 |Track leaves Khor Laiameb and | | |crosses low neck of rock; low | | |black stone hills on right hand; | | |scattered boulders, some of | | |similar shape to Abu Odfa on left | | |hand. Hills gradually close in, | | |and track crosses stony but not | | |difficult agaba, or pass, some ¾ | | |mile long. | | | | ¾ | 96¾ |A path to left leads over hills to | | |Ariab. | | | | 1¾ | 98½ |Over stony khor, then into hills | | |again, and is stony, steep, bad | | |going. | | | _Rauai Wells_ | 2 | 100½ |Stony sort of square, surrounded | | |By stone hills, with a narrow khor | | |running out each corner. Large | | |graveyard on right. A few mimosa | | |trees and some coarse grass. | | |Indifferent camping ground. Wells | | |½ mile up a narrow, rocky defile, | | |running from east corner of | | |square; two wells, revetted stone, | | |good water 15 feet down; | | |practically unlimited supply. This | | |defile impassable for animals, | | |which must go by easier way over | | |hills to south-west, and then down | | |side of hill again to the wells. | | |Some rough drawings of camels, | | |men, &c., scratched on rocks round | | |wells. Rock grouse and partridges | | |here. Track now runs north-west | | |over short agaba, across a stony | | |khor, and again an agaba winding | | |over bare, stony hills; bad going; | | |then a long, narrow, sandy khor; | | |fair-going; then a rough, stony | | |agaba leading over hills called | | |Hadia Aweb or blackwater rock; | | |thence into Khor Thela, a short _Makadia | 14½ | 115 |agaba, and Bir Makadia, in small Wells_ | | |khor same name, at head of Ariab | | |valley; Ariab wells, about 6 miles | | |west of north from here; one well | | |good water 30 feet down, enough | | |for one battalion, which would | | |require 1½ hours to refill; good | | |grazing ground and fuel. Some | | |gazelle and grouse; north road | | |about 3 miles from well. Going | | |from Rauai bad, nearly whole way a | | |succession of stony agabas. Prom | | |here cross stony neck, then across | | |head of Ariab valley. Pass Jebel | | |Bokmaali on left hand, cross a | | |stony neck, and | | | Yungul | 4 | 119 |Reach Wadi Yungul; north road | | |about 8 miles to left; 4 miles, | | |then cross another stony neck, and | | |Wadi Beakwa, called by Arabs | | |halfway to Suakin. | | | Khor Atbai | 7½ | 126½ |Cross Khor Atbai; 3 miles on cross | | |old dura patch, none this year on | | |account of bad rains. Over two | | |sandy and stony ridges and | | | Wadi Kokreb | 3½ | 130 |Enter Kokreb valley; good going, | | |firm sand, and thick with trees | | |and shrubs. Over some stony ridges | | |and | | | Khor Olowe | 2½ | 132½ |Enter Khor Olowe, still a part of | | |Kokreb. | | | _Magwala | 3½ | 136 |Two wells, good water, 75 feet Wells_ | | |down, sufficient for one | | |battalion; would require some | | |hours to refill; these wells are | | |said by Arabs to be oldest on | | |road; they are revetted granite, | | |which is deeply grooved all round | | |from constant hauling up of water. | | |Are much used by Shebodinab tribe, | | |who have huts close here. Many | | |hods, or earth-made drinking pans, | | |round each well. Some old Dervish | | |“tukuls,” which used to be | | |occupied by a detachment, for | | |collecting taxes. Good camp | | |ground, fuel and grazing, pigeons | | |and sand grouse; no gazelle. Wells | | |of Abd El Haabit lie some 7 or 8 | | |miles to north, and Jebel Wowitte, | | |about 8 miles to north-east; Jebel | | |Lagagaweb, the halfway rock on | | |north road, is seen some 6 miles | | |to north of west from here. | | | | | |Khor now gradually gets bare and | | |intersected by strips of stone. | | | | 4 | 140 |Cross a ridge and Khor Lasheb, | | |going indifferent, cut up by small | | |watercourses over a ridge. | | | _Wadi Habub_ | 3 | 143 |Wadi Habub. Going still | | |indifferent, across many ridges | | |running into khor, 5½ miles on; | | |track runs along edge of hills, | | |and then enters the Komotitai | | |hills by very stony and difficult | | |agaba or pass, about 1½ miles | | |long, then into sandy khor, full | | |of vegetation of sorts. 2 miles up | | |this khor to the | | | _Kamotitai | 11 | 154 |Wells of same name, _i.e._, Wells_ | | |Kamotitai, three wells, revetted | | |stone, good water 25 feet down | | |unlimited supply. Many other wells | | |in this khor now closed up; much | | |used by Arabs, and at each well | | |numerous hods. Good camp ground, | | |fuel, and grazing; sand grouse and | | |pigeons in abundance. | | | | | |A short way past wells, track | | |bends to left past large | | |graveyard; then across alternate | | |khors and ridges; indifferent | | |going. | | | Khor Arab | 7 | 161 |Thick with trees of all sorts, and | | |considerable cultivation in good | | |season. Two deep watercourses | | |crossed soon after entering khor; | | |3 miles on the track runs to north | | |of khor, over stony ridges, with | | |low stone hills on either hand. | | | Jebel Okwer | 7 | 168 |Jebel Okwer begins on left of | | |khor, several small pyramid-shaped | | |hills on right, and khor | | |stretching away beyond them. | | | _Khor Amate | 3½ | 171½ |Over a low ridge, and Wadi Amate Wells_ | | |begins; track running across large | | |patch of old cultivation into a | | |sandy khor; one well some 200 | | |yards to right, another ½ mile | | |straight on. There is a third | | |well, now closed. These wells, | | |revetted wood, good water 12 feet | | |down; supply practically | | |unlimited; many hods. Good camp | | |ground, fuel and grazing. A stone | | |hut close to well, and place thick | | |with sheep and goats, and some | | |cattle. | | | | | |Track from here runs north-west, | | |over small agaba into narrow khor | | |thick with trees. Okwer range | | |still on left; low hills on right | | |3½ miles, and hills on right hand, | | |and track again enters main Khor | | |Amate. Batta range on far right | | |and in front; ½ mile on Okwer | | |range ends. | | | | 4½ | 176 |Track to _wells of Abu Goloda_ | | |runs north from here. | | | | 3½ | 179½ |End of Khor Amate, and Batta range | | |entered by fairly easy agaba, | | |running east 1½ miles; then cross | | |small stony khor, then another | | |agaba through smaller hills, going | | |bad. | | | _Hormareb | 3½ | 183 |Jebel Homugwer away in distance to Well_ | | |right, ¾ mile off track to north | | |in small khor same name, Bir | | |Hormareb; one well, good water 25 | | |feet down; supply about 1,000 | | |gallons; requires some hours to | | |refill. Several hods round well; | | |good grazing and fuel, indifferent | | |ground. _Another well_ reported, | | |same description, 3 or 4 miles | | |further up khor to north. From | | |here bad going, over stony ridges | | |and small khors. | | | Wadi Ma’areit | 3½ | 186½ |Large graveyard on right, and | | |track turns sharp to left up Wadi | | |Ma’areit, a broad level valley, | | |running north and south; good | | |going, and considerable | | |cultivation after good rains. This | | |year a few patches dura. North- | | |west corner of valley thickly | | |studded with trees, and was in old | | |days a favourite summer resort of | | |people from Suakin. | | | | 6½ | 193 |Hills close right in on either | | |side, and the narrow wooded Khor | | |Ashaf leads through hills 2 miles; | | |track bends north-east, 1½ miles | | |on, and cross a flat khor, with | | |sparse vegetation, thick with | | |flocks. | | | | | |Now over alternate rough ridges | | |and small ragged khors. 2½ miles | | |down a sharp agaba into a small | | |khor, green and sweet smelling, | | |then wind round base of hills | | |miles, and enter Khor Tabikuk. | | | Khor Tabikuk | 7½ | 200½ |Across this khor, 3½ miles, top a | | |ridge, and view Sinkat valley, | | |green and thick with people and | | |flocks; down small agaba, over low | | |ridge, and enter valley. | | | _Sinkat Well_ | 4½ | 205 |One large well, good water 25 feet | | |down; unlimited supply. Several | | |large gemmeiza trees round wells | | |give excellent shade; ruins old | | |Egyptian fort also close to wells. | | |Large village in valley, with | | |several thousand people, built | | |partly straw huts, partly Arab | | |tents, small bazaar, and large | | |stores of gum. | | | | | |Good ground, fuel and grazing. | | |Khor Adit leads from north Sinkat | | |valley towards Khor Ossaud. | | | | | |Track from well runs east across | | |valley, then over low ridge across | | |two deep watercourses, and up a | | |stony, gradually-narrowing khor, | | |which winds through the hills. | | | _Khor Gebet_ | 6½ | 211½ |A short but bad agaba, a small | | |khor, a ridge, another small khor, | | |another ridge and Khor Gebet; | | |about 3 miles up this khor to | | |right are two wells. | | | | 3 | 214½ |Commencement of the great Sinkat | | |Agaba or Pass, along which track | | |runs for 3½ miles; very bad, | | |difficult going, practically | | |impassable for wheeled artillery, | | |and would be altogether | | |impracticable but for the work | | |done years ago by Mumtaz Pasha, | | |then Governor of Suakin. In this | | |agaba the Khor Gwob rises, which, | | |gradually widening, eventually | | |reaches the sea some 7 miles south | | |of Suakin. | | | _Khor Gwob_ | 3½ | 218 |End of agaba, and good going over | | |firm sand; gradual descent down | | |khor, which gradually widens. | | |Hills on either side, thick with | | |tamarisk, and cactus, &c. Huge | | |boulders on each side also | | |protruding from bed of khor. Pools | | |of water, with thick reeds here | | |and there, in which were many | | |teal; also many partridges, rock | | |grouse, and pigeons in khor. | | | _Tamanib_ | 6 | 224 |Unlimited supply, good running | | |water; fair camp ground; excellent | | |grazing; plenty fuel. Many cattle | | |grazing here. | | | | | |Road now leaves Khor Gwob and | | |turns to right; runs over low | | |ridges, with small khors between; | | |full of gazelle, ariel and hares. | | | | 10 | 234 |Hills cease, and a straight down- | | |hill run into Suakin, over plain | | |covered with coarse vegetation. | | | Suakin | 10 | 244 |Suakin. --------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
3.—BERBER TO KASSALA.
COMPILED IN INTELLIGENCE OFFICE, KHARTOUM, FROM VARIOUS SKETCHES AND REPORTS, JUNE, 1902.
This route is very difficult to map or describe so as to be of use to the traveller, as there are hardly half a dozen unmistakable objects along it by which he could identify his position.
As the Atbara dries up, it leaves a series of pools along its bed. Where the banks allow of these pools being approached by animals, the Arabs’ flocks are taken to water, and paths are beaten or cut through the bush leading to these meshras.
[Sidenote: Guides.]
The ordinary Arab guide, even if he has been in the habit of travelling by this road for years, knows only a small number of these meshras, _i.e._, those most conveniently situated for the class of journey he has been in the habit of performing, and only one or two of the countless tracks. The only people who know all the small meshras off the road, and they perhaps over a limited portion of the river, are the Arabs (Hadendoas) who are grazing their flocks there. If the traveller, therefore, because he is marching with troops or for any other reason, wishes to use the less well-known meshras, he must depend on local inquiries and should, therefore, have with him men who speak Hadendoa.
Another great difficulty is the comparatively small number of men who know the names of any except the chief meshras. Consequently the average guide makes the names he knows extend over the whole length of the river. Where one ends, another begins. The Arabs grazing their flocks by the Atbara, on the other hand, will give you names for each little bit of the river, but these names are of little value, as no one else knows them.
[Sidenote: Rest houses.]
There are rest houses at intervals of about 20 miles between Berber and Kassala.
[Sidenote: Grazing.]
There is good grazing for camels practically the whole way.
[Sidenote: Travellers.]
Persons travelling by themselves in the hot weather may find it best to march very early in the morning, halt at water, and march again near sunset, carrying enough water for the night-halt away from the river.
[Sidenote: Supplies.]
No supplies of any sort are to be got along road, except perhaps milk and sheep.
[Sidenote: Game.]
There is good fishing in the Atbara. Gazelle, bustard and ariel are seen along the route in localities, varying with the season. Wild asses are numerous north of Goz Regeb.
[Sidenote: Inhabitants.]
Some Bisharin are met, and a good many nomad Hadendoas.
--------------+--------------------+---------------------------------- | Miles. | Place. +-------------+------+ Description. |Intermediate.|Total.| --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- Berber | — | — |From Berber the road runs between | | |the river and the railway. | | | Darmali | 13 | 13 |A mud built village on the Nile; | | |the usual road now branches | | |southwards, crosses the railway | | |and than a bare, gravelly, Khor El Hudi | 17 | 30 |waterless plain to Khor El Hudi. | | |(If preferred, the Atbara can be | | |followed by continuing along the | | |Nile to Atbara Station, which is | | |about 7 miles from Darmali.) | | | | | |From El Hudi, where the remains of | | |the Anglo-Egyptian zeriba are | | |still visible, the road skirts the | | |river which is fringed with dom Khor Abadar or| 8 | 38 |palms and other bush to Khor Abu Adar | | |Abadar, near the junction of which | | |there is a small stone wall | | |enclosure and the remains of | | |another Anglo-Egyptian zeriba. | | | | | |From here the road cuts off an | | |angle from the river and lies _Khor El Hilg_| 19 | 57 |across open gravelly desert till (Rest House) | | |Khor El Hilg is reached. | | | | | |(Nakheila, the site of Mahmud’s | | |zeriba and the battle of the | | |Atbara, is passed at the 12th | | |mile, about 5 miles to the west.) | | |There is dense bush about here, | | |and the ground is likely to be | | |swampy in the rains. | | | Sheikh El | 3½ | 60½ |The house stands on slightly Sebib’s House | | |rising ground. After passing this (Rest House). | | |the country continues to be broken | | |by small khors until after passing _Gemmeiza_ | 12 | 72½ |Gemmeiza, a good halting place, (Rest House) | | |but much bush hereabouts. | | | | | |The country soon becomes open and | | |level, and is covered with | | |scattered selem and sunt bushes. | | |The river is generally nowhere | | |more than a mile and half to the | | |west. | | | El Hagar | 14½ | 87 |Here there are rocks in the river | | |bed. | | | Khor El Fil | 1 | 88 |The going continues excellent | | |until reaching Khor Adarama which Khor Adarama | 8 | 96 |is about 1½ miles in width and is | | |marked by very thick scrub of | | |sunt, talh, and tundub, as well as | | |by the badly cracked cotton soil | | |indicative of standing water. | | | _Adarama_ | 1½ | 97½ |Adarama consists of a large number (Rest House) | | |of mud walled enclosures, | | |scattered over about ¾ of a square | | |mile of ground. These are almost | | |entirely deserted and mostly | | |ruined. With the exception of the | | |inspector’s house, camel corps | | |lines, and a few tukls, there are | | |practically no inhabited houses. | | |In the dry weather there are two | | |water pools in the vicinity, one | | |at the foot of Khor Adarama, and | | |another about ¾ mile higher up. | | |The approach to the river is easy, | | |but the bank shelves steeply to | | |the river bed from a height of | | |about 25 feet. | | | El Hejera | 1½ | 99 |A large zeriba of Osman Digna’s is | | |passed. | | | Um Bashim | 2 | 101 |The name of this district. After | | |passing through two patches of | | |bush about a mile apart, the | | |country becomes open and sandy, | | |and sand ridges appear to the | | |east. | | | El Siwan | 8 | 109 |Here the river may be approached, | | |and further on the track passes | | |within a few yards of the river | | |bank. | | | _Shellalab_ | 10½ | 119½ |Shellalab, a sandy hill covered (Rest House | | |with marakh bushes. From here the near here). | | |track continues to the river bank, | | |through scattered marakh bush, and | | |sand hills lie away to the east. Gala Amarus | — | — |The river can be approached almost | | |anywhere, and the path is never _Meshra Baluk | 21½ | 141 |more than about ½ a mile from it. or Um Beiba_ | | |Jebel Ayob is visible about 7 (Rest House). | | |miles due east. | | | | | |From here the path traverses | | |scattered bush, and in places | | |badly cracked cotton soil, | | |indicating the existence of water | | |in the rains, and gradually | | |ascends an easy slope on to the | | |plateau, and thus cuts off a bend | | |in the river. | | | Debba Gulal | 13 | 154 |Debba Gulal. | | | | | |The descent from the plateau | | |begins 3 miles further on, and the _Meshra_ | 7 | 161 |river is struck at a good meshra. | | | _Meshra | 3 | 164 |The path continuing near the Mitateb_ (Rest| | |river, Mitateb, the first meshra House). | | |in the Hadendoa country, is | | |reached. The Bisharin country on | | |right bank ends here, as also the | | |Berber Province; the Province of | | |Kassala is now entered. Rest house | | |here. | | | | | |From here the path gradually | | |ascends a gentle slope to the | | |plateau, from where Jebels Ofreik | | |and Erembat soon become visible. | | |Scattered heglig, tundub, and samr | | |trees are noticeable, of these | | |samr predominate as Goz Regeb is | | |approached. | | | | | |Two miles before reaching old | | |telegraph hut the road descends | | |from the plateau, and the river is | | |reached at this hut, which forms a | | |good halting place. The village of _Goz Regeb_ | 15 | 179 |Goz Regeb is situated on a slight (Rest House) | | |eminence close to the river on the | | |left bank, and is marked by a few | | |dom palms. Some Government | | |buildings are now in course of | | |construction on the right bank, | | |the idea being that Goz Regeb | | |should form a sanatorium for | | |Kassala during the rains. The | | |direct track to Kassala and that | | |in general use leaves J. Erembat | | |to the north, and strikes straight | | |across the level plain. At about _Bir Teishum_ | 38 | 217 |38 miles, Bir Teishum is passed in (Rest House) | | |the bed of a branch of the Gash, | | |about 3 miles off the direct road. | | |It has been lately opened up, and | | |has a good supply of water, and | | |Arabs were living here (March, | | |1902). There is little shade to be | | |had on this road until after Khor Ebret | 20 | 237 |passing Khor Ebret, when kurmet | | |and other green trees and bushes Khor Gash | 5 | 242 |become numerous. On nearing the | | |Gash, signs of cultivation appear. | | | _Tukruf_ | 1¾ | 243¾ |Many wells in bed of Gash; | | |unlimited supply of water. | | | Kassala | 2¾ | 246½ |Destination.
ANOTHER ROUTE MAY BE TAKEN FROM GOZ REGEB _viâ_ ASUBRI TO KASSALA.
_Goz Regeb_ | 179 | 179 |The track ascends to the plateau | | |and follows the edge of it, | | |leaving the river several miles to | | |the west. There are several | | |meshras, all of which, however, | | |are almost impossible to find | | |without a guide. | | | _Meshra Um | 30 | 209 |This meshra is somewhere about Bereika_ | | |half-way. | | | _Asubri_ | 35 | 244 |Good meshra and shade. | | | | | |About 5 miles after leaving the | | |river for Kassala, the road from | | |Suweihil joins in, and rather | | |thick laot and kittr bush is Goz El Handal | 8½ | 252½ |traversed till reaching Goz El | | |Handal, an open gravelly plain | | |with short grass extending for | | |about 2 miles From here to | | |Umsiteiba there is little bush. | | | Umsiteiba | 13 | 265½ |A place where water stands in the | | |rains; not much shade. | | | Khor Garatet | 3 | 268½ |Rather swampy and difficult for | | |camels in the rains. | | | Khor Um Dahan | 6 | 274½ |Water stands in this khor in the | | |rains. It is about 6 yards wide | | |and 3 feet deep. | | | | | |There are Arab settlements near | | |here in the rains for cultivation. | | |After passing through some rather Khor Kunti | 6 | 280½ |thick laot, &c., bush, Khor Kunti, | | |about 8 yards wide and 6 feet | | |deep, is crossed. | | | Khor Gash | 4¼ | 284¾ |Many marakh and kurmet bushes | | |until the Gash is reached. | | | Kassala | ¾ | 285½ | --------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
4.—SUAKIN TO TOKAR.
BY LIEUTENANT A. M. TAGGART, 1ST BOMBAY LANCERS, JULY, 1896; CAPTAIN MCKERRELL, CAMERON HIGHLANDERS, DECEMBER, 1897.
--------------+--------------------+---------------------------------- | Miles. | Place. +-------------+------+ Description. |Intermediate.|Total.| --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- Suakin | — | — |For the first 25 miles the track | | |is well defined, and leads over | | |hard ground never more than a mile | | |or two from the sea shore. During | | |the next 6 miles it changes in | | |character, and for the last 25 | | |miles leads through bushes and | | |over sandhills, the tracks varying | | |according to the season and the | | |difficulties (drifting sand, &c.) | | |to be encountered. There is no | | |water to be had on the way. A | | |telegraph line leads direct from | | |Suakin to Tokar, but does not | | |always follow the best road. | | | | | |Leaving Suakin in a S.S.E. | | |direction, the track is broad and | | |distinct, passing over hard, sandy | | |ground, with a few bushes 1 to 3 | | |feet high. | | | Khor Gwob | 7½ | 7½ |Crosses broad Khor Gwob. | | | | 3 | 10½ |Track now 5 to 10 feet broad, | | |approaches sea shore, then bears | | |away again. Near this point (4 | | |hours from Suakin) there are | | |reported to have been some wells | | |in 1885; water 6 feet down and | | |brackish, hardly ever used. | | | | 2 | 12 |Saw some trees due east, halfway | | |to the sea; said to be _wells of | | |Helub_. Water bitter, and but | | |little used. | | | | 3 | 15 |Track meets telegraph line. | | | | 2½ | 17½ |Over rising ground. Extensive view | | |in all directions to the westward, | | |well-defined khor trending north- | | |west. Sparse bushes 2 to 3 feet | | |high, ground hard and sandy, | | |overlying coral. Track descends | | |again; then level ground. | | | Khor Asab | 7½ | 25 |Reached Khor Asab, which runs in | | |from the hills to the west; it is | | |called half-way to Tokar. Here a | | |track branches off to the left, | | |and leads to Teb. | | | | 6 | 31 |Mud huts in ruins. Track becomes | | |narrow and indistinct. Bush | | |thicker, 4 to 8 feet high. | | | | | |Surface shifting sand, with clay | | |patches. | | | | 8 | 39 |Crosses several small khors, | | |sometimes traces of water here. | | |Bush very thick. | | | Khor Tamai | 2 | 41 |Small pool of rainwater (at | | |certain seasons only). | | | Mamuria | 4 | 45 |Ruined Mamuria of Mumtaz Pasha—mud | | |house. Telegraph line crossed | | |three times since the 31st mile. | | |Bush becomes thicker. | | | Old Tokar | 5 | 50 |Old Tokar—in ruins. Broken ground | | |and thick bush. | | | _Abdulla Rai_ | 2 | 52 |Abdulla Rai Fort (fat loopholed | | |tower, with pointed roof), on an | | |eminence, visible from some | | |distance. Nine wells here, water | | |good—never known to fail, 54 feet | | |down (July). Large herds of camels | | |and goats in the district. Thick | | |bush all round. | | | | | |Track now due south-east to Tokar, | | |surface hard and clayey, covered | | |in places with drifted sand; bush | | |3 to 6 feet high. Tokar signal | | |tower visible. | | | | 3 | 55 |Leave the bush, across level mud | | |plain to | | | _Tokar_ | 1 | 56 |Tokar, _vide_ Part I, Chap. III. --------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
5.—TRINKITAT TO TOKAR, _viâ_ TEB.
BY CAPTAIN BOWER, I.S.C., AND EDITOR, JULY, 1896.
--------------+--------------------+---------------------------------- | Miles. | Place. +-------------+------+ Description. |Intermediate.|Total.| --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- Trinkitat | — | — |The whole road from Trinkitat to | | |Tokar is passable for all arms, | | |and it is only when approaching | | |Tokar that the scrub about the | | |country becomes thick enough to | | |interfere with the action of | | |cavalry. | | | | | |For 2½ miles from Trinkitat the | | |road runs along a broad | | |embankment, on which for 1 mile an | | |18-inch gauge railway has been | | |laid down. After leaving the | | |embankment there is a sandy | | |stretch, and then about 2 miles of | | |narrow embankment just broad | | |enough for the railway line. This | | |embankment in places has rather a | | |serpentine course, and would have | | |to be straightened before rails | | |could be laid down. | | | _El Teb_ | 7 | 7 |At El Teb there is a small fort, | | |and an ample supply of water at a | | |depth of 17 feet. | | | | | |Three wells inside fort and | | |numerous ones outside, these | | |latter mostly for animals. | | | | | |The water in the different wells | | |varies in quality, but is all | | |slightly brackish. No ill effects, | | |however, appear to attend drinking | | |it, and the men quartered there | | |spoke favourably of it. | | | | | |The parapet of the fort is a brick | | |wall 10 feet high, 1½ feet thick; | | |ditch 11 feet broad, 8 feet deep. | | |Signal tower as at Tokar, 43 feet | | |high. Scene of battle of El Teb, | | |29th February, 1884, just north of | | |present fort. | | | | | |There are two roads from Teb to | | |Tokar, both broad (30-50 yards) | | |clearings through the bush. The | | |“new” road is the straightest, but | | |leads over soft sandhills and is | | |rarely used. The other road bears | | |gradually westwards a mile south | | |of Teb, and cannot be missed if | | |the traveller keeps on the west | | |edge of the clearing. Excellent | | |going for all arms. Bush on either | | |side 3 to 10 feet high. | | | _Abdulla Rai_ | 8 | 15 |Junction of Suakin track. Abdulla | | |Rai Fort, ½ mile west of track. | | | Tokar | 2½ | 17½ |Tokar. --------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
6.—(α) SUAKIN TO ERKOWIT, _viâ_ TAMANEB AND KHOR ARAB.
BY MAJOR POWELL, R.E., MARCH, 1903.
--------------+--------------------+---------------------------------- | Miles. | Place. +-------------+------+ Description. |Intermediate.|Total.| --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- Suakin | — | — |Leaving Suakin by the Shaata Gate | | |the track leads S.W. up the plain | | |reaching the granite outcrops of | | |the foot hills. Over broken, but | | |easy ground to Tamaneb, where | | |there is running water. | | | _Tamaneb_ | 8 | 18 |The track passes W. of Tamaneb and | | |ascends the flat valley bottom of | | |Khor Gwob to 22 miles, where the | | |junction with the Khor Nagit is | | |reached. Leaving the route to | | |Sinkat, which goes on up Gwob, the | | |track turns S.W. up Khor Nagit | | |till 27 miles, and then crosses a | | |short rocky agaba into Khor Manab. | | |Descending this easy valley, at | | |29½ miles the junction with Khor | | |Arab is reached. To avoid a gorge | | |the track ascends the hillside | | |about 150 feet by a different rock | | |path descending into the valley at | | |30½ miles. Up the valley, easy | | |going, for about a mile pass | | |_running water_ (brackish and | | |unpleasant), then ascend by steep | | |zigzags up the left bank (1 in 4 | | |at worst), after ½ mile along the | | |steep hillside cross the valley | | |and rise by a steep path to the | | |saddle separating Khor Arab from | | |the Khor Dahand. Descend into the | | |latter by a rocky path and, after | | |ascending with difficulty the | | |rocky torrent bed for another ½ | | |mile, reach the foot of the Agatba | | |agaba at mile 34. A steep climb of | | |¾ mile brings one to the summit, | | |after which the route crosses easy | | |rises and dips to Erkowit at mile _Erkowit_ | 21 | 39 |39. | | | | | |Good hill camels lightly laden | | |took 11 marching hours from | | |Erkowit to Suakin by this route, | | |and would take about 14 hours to | | |ascend. The track is not fit for | | |horses or fully laden mules. --------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
(β) SUAKIN TO ERKOWIT, _viâ_ KOLKALAI PASS.
BY MAJOR POWELL, R.E., MARCH, 1903.
--------------+--------------------+---------------------------------- | Miles. | Place. +-------------+------+ Description. |Intermediate.|Total.| --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- Suakin | — | — |Track leaves Suakin S.S.W. over | | |the plain. At mile 13 crosses Khor | | |Gwob, a wide open wadi with low | | |banks and thick bush. This Khor is | | |occasionally impassable when in | | |flood. About mile 16 the road | | |reaches the granite outcrops of | | |the foothills, and descends into a _Taharoi_ | 17 | 17 |wadi at Taharoi (mile 17), where | | |there are usually several wells | | |much resorted to for watering | | |flocks. This year only one well | | |and that almost dry. Depth to | | |water usually 10 feet. | | | | | |Tracks leads S. to Khor Tehela, | | |leaving J. Gumberit to E. At mile | | |20 usually a well, but dry this | | |year. Then S.W. into the Khor | | |Dahand at 25 miles; track enters | | |the hills and goes for 3 miles up | | |the easy valley. At mile 28 there | | |is _water in the hill_ to S. and | | |several Hadendoa tukls. | | | | | |Track then takes to hillside, | | |rising by zigzags up the end of a | | |spur. At first 1 in 6, then 1 in 4 | | |to the ridge, then very steeply 1 | | |in 3 to another col, by short | | |zigzags and rocky steps; very bad | | |for pack animals, but good hill | | |camels get up with light loads. | | |Track descends along hillside for | | |about 1 mile; all green, with | | |shrubs, grass and ferns. | | |Francolin, partridge and quail | | |plentiful. Some bad places in | | |descent, then easy path, and again | | |short difficult rise to the edge | | |of the Erkowit plateau. | | | | | |Total ascent from Khor Dahand a | | |little over 2,000 feet. | | | | | |Camels took 3 hours. The track is | | |not fit to ride over. | | | _Erkowit_ | 17 | 34 |After about ¾ mile Erkowit is | | |reached. | | | | | |Leaving this route at mile 20 a | | |track leads up Khor Masilli, S. of | | |Dahand; the bad ascent on this is | | |shorter, but equally bad, and the | | |whole distance is longer. --------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
7.—(α) ERKOWIT TO SINKAT, _viâ_ BARAMIL PLAINS.
BY MAJOR POWELL, R.E., MARCH, 1903.
--------------+--------------------+---------------------------------- | Miles. | Place. +-------------+------+ Description. |Intermediate.|Total.| --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- Erkowit | — | — |South over easy ground to head of | | |Khor Amrat, down the sandy bed of | | |the khor W.N.W. Leaving the khor | | |the track rises for ¼ mile over a | | |stony slope, reaching the Baramil | | |Plain at 4 miles from Erkowit. For | | |14 miles the track runs W.N.W. | | |over the firm surface of the | | |plains. Large herds of ariel are | | |seen, a few flocks and nomad | | |Arabs, but no water. Down stony | | |and occasionally narrow khor N.W. _Towai Wells_ | 18¾ | 18¾ |to Towai Wells, which are at side | | |of khor 12 feet deep. Water fair | | |and plentiful. | | | _Sinkat_ | 2¾ | 21½ |Down Khor Towai over a low stony | | |rise and descend W.N.W.; wide khor | | |until it joins the open Sinkat | | |Valley and reaches the well and | | |ruins of the old Fort at 21½ | | |miles. --------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
(β) ERKOWIT TO SINKAT, _viâ_ KHOR GEBET.
BY MAJOR POWELL, R.E., MARCH, 1903.
--------------+--------------------+---------------------------------- | Miles. | Place. +-------------+------+ Description. |Intermediate.|Total.| --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- Erkowit | — | — |Route descends the valley W.S.W. | | |from Erkowit by rocky surface | | |track over ridges and dips, rising | | |after 2½ miles by a stony ascent | | |to the edge of Baramil plateau. | | |This length is the worst part of | | |the route, it is practicable, but | | |not good for loaded camels, and is | | |easily capable of improvement by | | |unskilled labour. | | | | | |Along Baramil plateau, W. for | | |about 2 miles, then N.N.W. over | | |gentle ascent, and cross an easy | | |but stony agaba, and descent N. | | |down a khor leading to the open | | |valley of Gebet. No obstacle. _Gebet Well_ | 14¼ | 14¼ |Gentle descent N.W. to the well at | | |14¼ miles. Water good; large | | |flocks and herds; one well 30 feet | | |deep. Down the open valley W.N.W. | | |3 miles, where route is joined by | | |the direct track from Suakin to | | |Sinkat, _viâ_ the Sinkat agaba, | | |then W. 1 mile to a short stony | | |agaba leading into the Khor Abu | | |Shid, the main valley of which is | | |reached at mile 20. Thence easy | | |going over a wide wadi to Sinkat _Sinkat_ | 8¾ | 23 |at mile 23. --------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
8.—KASSALA TO SUAKIN, _viâ_ FILIK, MAMAN, AND KHOR SITARAB.
BY LIEUT.-COL. MITFORD, APRIL, 1899.
(_Corrected up to_ 1900.)
--------------+--------------------+---------------------------------- | Miles. | Place. +-------------+------+ Description. |Intermediate.|Total.| --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- Kassala | — | — |On leaving Kassala, a N. by W. | | |direction is taken over flat, | | |sandy ground, intersected by small | | |khors running into the Khor El | | |Gash; many low trees of the acacia | | |tribe and the green-leafed kurmet | | |bush, but passage among them easy | | |in any direction. | | | Khor Debeloeid| 5½ | 5½ |A shallow khor, flowing from | | |S.S.W. to N.N.E. two miles on; | | |this khor is recrossed, flowing | | |westward; here the trees are | | |thicker and taller. | | | Khor Gamam | 3½ | 9 |A branch of the Khor El Gash, 20 | | |feet deep, 15 to 20 yards wide; | | |proceeding down the khor for ½ | | |mile the wells are reached. Banks | | |thickly fringed with high | | |tamarisks; bush very close. | | | _Bir Gamam_ | ½ | 9½ |Two wells; now 12 feet deep, 3 | | |feet diameter; water plentiful. | | |Many wells exist now in this khor | | |for about 2 miles N. from this | | |point. After winding about in the | | |bush for a mile, country again | | |becomes open; many open spaces | | |half-a-mile to a mile in breadth. | | |Direction N. A good deal of | | |cultivation here. | | | Gamam | 5½ | 15 |Formerly a large Hadendoa hamlet; | | |its site now marked by a stony | | |mound to the E. known as Habuba. A | | |mile on one passes many skulls and | | |human bones scattered all over the | | |ground for some distance. This | | |spot was the scene of the first | | |encounter of the Kassala garrison | | |and the Dervishes in the winter of | | |1883-4. Later on Osman Digna had a | | |large standing camp of Hadendoa at | | |the same place. Arabs say “20,000 | | |young men” were collected there | | |and guarded by Baggara horsemen, | | |who, when food failed, refused to | | |let them leave; so many hundreds | | |died of starvation. | | | Hageror | 9 | 24 |The name of the district. At this | | |point, 1 mile W. of our route, is | | |the site of the old telegraph | | |maintenance post of the old | | |Suakin—Kassala telegraph line, | | |close to a branch of the Khor El | | |Gash (Khor Herbub). Arabs say | | |water can be found 10 to 15 feet | | |below the surface anywhere in this | | |khor; fringed with high trees. | | |Direction now is E.N.E.; country | | |as before, but cotton soil. | | | Khor Bahr | 3½ | 27½ |A shallow depression, 200 to 300 Shamil | | |yards broad, no defined banks, | | |thickly grown over by laot trees. | | | Khor Delai | 3 | 30½ |Twenty yards broad, 4 feet deep, | | |flowing W. High trees along banks. | | |At the 33rd mile the trees | | |disappear; country is cotton soil | | |with tussocks of grass, full of | | |holes and breaks away at every | | |step. Very bad going for men and | | |animals. As the Khor Herbub is | | |approached, grass, 3 feet high, | | |becomes thicker. | | | Khor Herbub | 10¾ | 41¼ |A branch of the Gash, 20 feet | | |broad, 20 feet deep. Proceed due | | |W. for 1¼ miles through high | | |trees. | | | _Bir Tokar_ | 1¼ | 42½ |One well,[7] 20 feet deep, 3 feet | | |diameter, 1 foot of water at | | |bottom of well. After drawing 400 | | |gallons supply was exhausted and | | |water came in very slowly. Water | | |good. Good grazing for horses and | | |camels, and plenty of shade. | | |Retracing one’s steps back across | | |the Khor Herbub, a direction 72° | | |(true) was taken and followed as | | |far as Khor Togan. Bad cotton soil | | |and tussocks of grass as before. | | | _Filik_ | 2½ | 45 |Formerly the largest and most | | |important collection of hamlets of | | |the Hadendoa of the Gash. Now no | | |traces, with the exception of | | |three charred dom palm trees, | | |which supported the roof of the | | |old telegraph maintenance post. | | |Many wells, and water plentiful in | | |Khor Tokar ½ mile W. | | | | | |Going very bad; at the 49th mile | | |belts of laot trees are passed | | |through. At the 53rd mile surface | | |of ground improves; more sandy, | | |with patches of small stones or | | |pebbles. | | | J. Tisheiga | 11 | 56 |One mile to right. Ground now | | |descends gently; several small | | |khors are crossed, running | | |westward; trees in khors and along | | |banks, kittr and samr. Ground | | |sandy, with occasional patches of | | |stones; excellent going. | | | Khor Yelkuk | 5 | 61 |Also called Telkuk. One hundred | | |yards broad, flowing westwards. | | |Ten miles up this khor are wells | | |and an Arab settlement. Many | | |trees; good grazing for camels. | | |Two miles to the north are low | | |black hills called J. Kadabu. | | |Country as before. | | | Khor Taugon | 5½ | 66½ |One hundred yards broad, banks 4 | | |feet high. One well here not yet | | |reopened, in bed of khor; high | | |trees and dom palms in bed and | | |along banks. Two and half miles E. | | |is J. Taugon. General direction | | |62°. | | | Khor Shamfeid | 2½ | 69 |A small khor running into Khor | | |Maman. Same direction being | | |followed, J. Maman with its four | | |peaks straight ahead. Ground rises | | |gently and then descends towards | | |the Khor Maman; with stones in | | |places. | | | Khor Maman | 6 | 75 |One hundred yards broad, banks 4 | | |feet high; many high trees and | | |doms; excellent grazing for | | |camels. Crossing the khor and | | |following up its right bank for 1½ | | |miles the wells are reached. Under | | |J. Maman are seen many hundreds of | | |stone huts, which, according to | | |the Arabs, were built many | | |centuries ago; also many large | | |stone graves. | | | _Bir Maman_ | 1½ | 76½ |Two wells, 40 feet deep, 3 feet | | |diameter, water good and plentiful | | |at all seasons. | | | | | |On leaving the wells, the track, | | |very faint, over stony ground, | | |made by the party constructing the | | |new telegraph line, was followed | | |for the next 40 miles. The | | |telegraph line itself is within | | |sight of the track on one side or | | |the other. Track proceeds up khor | | |for ¾ mile, then passes round S.E. | | |corner of J. Maman, and turns due | | |N. J. Maman on the W. and J. Tudab | | |on the E. form a pass, 1½ to 2 | | |miles broad; ground sandy, with | | |patches of stones; flat, good | | |going; several small khors are | | |crossed. | | | Khor Hashaneid| 6 | 82½ |One hundred yards broad, 3 feet | | |banks. Dom palms and trees. | | | Khor Tudab | 2 | 84½ | | | | Khor Fagada | 2 | 86½ | | | | Khor Toteb | 1 | 87½ |Eighty yards broad, 5 feet banks. | | |Runs into the Khor Kudameieb. Dom | | |palms, kittr, samr, and the | | |thornless kurmet trees. One and a | | |half miles E. is J. Yaied, some | | |1,500 feet high, and 6 to 7 miles | | |long, a mass of black basaltic | | |rock, steeply escarped on its | | |western side. | | | | | |For the next 12 miles, ground | | |traversed is hard sand, sloping | | |from hills on the E., and covered | | |with stones; very bad going; in | | |the small watercourses (during | | |rains) are belts of samr and kittr | | |trees. | | | Khor Gedamaieb| 4½ | 92 |Fifty yards broad, 6 feet banks. | | |Trees; 2 miles on, a similar khor | | |is crossed, bearing the same name. | | | | | |At 96½ miles the top of a | | |watershed is reached, and J. | | |Kureib comes in sight, E.N.E. J. | | |Bakutneb is some 3 or 4 miles to | | |the N. | | | Khor Abuladein| 7½ | 99½ |Twenty yards broad, 6 feet banks. | | |Ground now sandy, and more trees. | | | Khor Serera | 4 | 103½ |One hundred yards broad, 6 feet | | |banks. Dom palms. Runs into the | | |Khor Abu Ledein. | | | Khor Togul | 3¼ | 106¾ |Thirty yards broad, 3 feet banks. | | |Follow the khor 1 mile down | | |stream. | | | _Bir Ali | 1 | 107¾ |One well 40 feet deep, 2 feet 6 Kalai_ | | |inches diameter; water good, but | | |supply only 300 gallons at date, | | |and refilled very slowly. Khor | | |Weidab joins Khor Togul from the | | |S. lower down. | | | | | |Returning up the khor 1 mile, a | | |N.E. direction is taken. Ground | | |very stony and undulating, and | | |intersected by several large | | |khors. Trees in watercourses and | | |along banks of khor. The track | | |runs more or less parallel with J. | | |Kureib, 4 or 5 miles distant to | | |the E.; a range some 8 miles long, | | |2,300 feet (approximate) above the | | |general level, very precipitous on | | |western side; black basaltic | | |rocks. | | | Watershed | 9¼ | 117 |Up to this point all khors crossed | | |run into the Khor El Gash; | | |northwards of this watershed, | | |khors run into the Khor Langeb. | | | Khor Arideib | 4 | 121 |The direction of the new telegraph | | |line is left 3 miles before | | |reaching this khor. Direction | | |N.N.W. Low ground sandy, with | | |trees and grass; high ground stony | | |and rocky. | | | Khor Kei-Eiteb| 5 | 126 | | | | Khor Gambeleib| 1½ | 127½ |The downward course of this khor, | | |trending W. and S.W., is now | | |followed for 4½ miles; several | | |subsidiary khors join it from | | |either side. Water could probably | | |be found anywhere here, as trees | | |are finer and creepers are | | |festooned along the trees; many | | |kurmet bushes, marakh, and tundub; | | |good grazing for camels. | | | _Bir | 4 | 132 |Also called Bir Akrat. One well 50 Hamashaueb_ | | |feet deep, 3 feet diameter; water | | |good and plentiful. | | | | | |Returning up the khor for 2 miles | | |to where Khor Gambeleib joins Khor | | |Homashaueb, the upward course of | | |the latter khor is followed for 2 | | |miles, and then a N.N.E. direction | | |taken. Ground very stony and | | |rising; intersected by small khors | | |running from hills to the east. | | | Khor Omli | 12 | 144 |No defined banks; its course | | |marked by the trees. | | | _Khor | 4 | 148 |Also called Khor Kubri. One well Yaskalab_ | | |here 45 feet deep, 3 feet | | |diameter; water good, but supply | | |uncertain; it is generally dry at | | |this time of the year. | | | Khor Hedaweb | 5 | 153 |Similar to Khor Gambeleib. One and | | |half miles down the khor is Bir _Bir Hadaueb_ | 1 | 154 |Hedaweb. One well 9 feet deep, 3 | | |feet 6 inches diameter; water good | | |and plentiful; there is said to be | | |a better well 1 to 2 miles further | | |down the khor. | | | | | |On the south side of the khor, | | |close to the well, are the remains | | |of the old telegraph line | | |maintenance post. | | | | | |Returning up the khor ½ mile, a | | |branch khor coming in from the N. | | |is followed up past a large | | |graveyard. At the 156th mile this | | |khor is left, and the neck between | | |two rocky hills is crossed. Going | | |very bad; rough and stony. | | | Khor Belag | 6½ | 160½ |Two hundred yards broad, 2 feet | | |banks. Excellent grazing for | | |camels in this khor. For 7 miles | | |its downward course is followed. | | |Arabs say that it flows into Khor | | |Windi, but at 167½ miles the khor | | |appears dammed up with sand dunes | | |8 to 10 feet high, and its level | | |is the same as that of the | | |surrounding country. | | | Khor Hegadab | 8¼ | 168¾ |Flows towards the E. Ground | | |ascends, and a mile on a stony | | |pass between the hills is reached. | | |J. Adarabab now comes in sight, | | |noticeable from several chimney- | | |like rocks which stand up above | | |the general level of the top of | | |the range. A short descent, then a | | |sandy plain with patches of stones | | |in places. | | | Khor Windi | 4 | 172¾ |This khor is entered, and its | | |down-stream course followed for | | |the next 8 miles. No water now | | |obtainable in this khor; trees are | | |more stunted, and their leaves | | |more yellow and dried up than in | | |the preceding khors. At 177½ miles | | |is the site of the old telegraph | | |maintenance post and well, now | | |filled in many years ago. | | | | | |At 180 miles the khor is left, and | | |a plain traversed, alternately | | |sandy with tufts of grass and | | |stony; several narrow deep khors | | |are crossed. At 188¼ miles the | | |level of the country suddenly | | |drops some 20 feet. | | | | | |Tamarisk bushes and trees | | |commence. | | | Khor Langeb | 19¼ | 192 |One hundred and fifty to three | | |hundred yards broad, banks 15 to | | |20 feet high. Banks on either side | | |thickly fringed with tamarisk | | |trees; excellent grazing for | | |camels. Arabs are restarting | | |breeding camels in the vicinity of | | |this khor; one drove of nearly 300 | | |young camels were seen. One day | | |S.W. up this khor, Khor Odeib is | | |said to enter it; all the khors | | |already enumerated, from Khor | | |Areideb to Hedaweb inclusive, run | | |into Khor Odeib. Half a day to the | | |E. Khor Windi joins it. | | | _Bir | 1½ | 193½ |One and a quarter miles up this Tamashnauer_ | | |khor is the well; 25 feet deep, 3 | | |feet diameter; water plentiful, | | |but very smelly and brackish. | | |Arabs state that at present there | | |are no wells open further up the | | |khor; lower down are more wells | | |and a few pools. | | | | | |Returning ¾ mile down the khor, a | | |direction N. by E. is taken; | | |several small tributary khors are | | |crossed, and then ground ascends | | |gently and becomes stony. | | | | | |The next 45 miles is known as the | | |Wadi Ossir. J. Adarabab and Shaba | | |on the E., and a series of ranges | | |of hills on the W. form the sides, | | |8 to 10 miles apart. These hills | | |form a funnel through which the | | |wind blows steadily during the | | |winter months; sand storms very | | |frequent. | | | J. Karamriba | 4½ | 198 |Two black stony hills, 200 feet | | |high; ½ mile to W. | | | Eilogwa | 3 | 201 |In the hills to the E., 3 to 4 | | |miles from the track, are said to | | |be rock _cisterns with water_; | | |supply said to last from rains to | | |rains. | | | Khor Ossir | 5 | 206 |Flowing S.W. Runs into Khor | | |Langeb. | | | El Fogani | 2½ | 208½ |The same khor is recrossed, | | |flowing S.E. Good grazing along | | |and in this khor. | | | | | |Direction N.N.E. Ground still | | |rising gently; sandy, with | | |tamarisks bushes and samr trees, | | |very stunted, 4 to 5 feet high. | | |Some marakh and araag trees. | | |Occasional belts of stony ground. | | | Watershed | 16 | 224½ |Top of the watershed is reached; ½ | | |mile to W. is a low stony mound, | | |50 feet. Ground now falls from J. | | |Shaba range towards the western | | |hills. | | | Khor Shenkerat| 5 | 229½ |Three to four miles to E.; in the | | |hills are said to be _rock | | |cisterns_. The old telegraph | | |maintenance post is under the | | |hills. Ground now becomes very | | |stony, falling towards the W. and | | |N.; in the shallow depression | | |between the flat spurs are | | |Abyssinian aloes. Three miles on | | |ground becomes more sandy, and | | |samr, marakh, and some laurel-like | | |bushes are passed through, | | |becoming thicker as the khor is | | |approached. | | | Khor Ossir El | 9 | 238½ |Fifty to one hundred yards broad, Tahtani | | |5 feet banks; flows N.E. The range | | |of hills on the E. now terminates. | | |A sandy plain is now crossed; | | |scattered samr, etc. | | | J. Meiz | 5 | 243½ |A low conical hill is passed close | | |to the track to the E. 3 to 4 | | |miles to the W. in the range of | | |hills Arabs point out J. Maiz, | | |where _water_ is said to be | | |plentiful. | | | | | |For 2 miles stony ground, then | | |sandy again; track passes through | | |several groups of low detached | | |hills. At 254½ miles ground | | |becomes more cut up with khors, | | |and gradually ascends and becomes | | |very stony; the last mile into | | |Khor Siterab is a stony defile; | | |going very bad and in single file. | | |A sharp ascent into the khor. | | | _Khor Sitarab_| 16½ | 260 |A rocky khor 20 to 50 yards wide; | | |bounded by hills 40 to 60 feet | | |high on either side. In the bed of | | |the khor are great blocks of | | |granite, through the interstices | | |of which percolates water, which | | |collects in the clay bed of the | | |khor and forms small pools at | | |close intervals all down the khor, | | |averaging 15 to 20 feet long, 2 to | | |4 feet broad, and 6 inches deep. | | |Water very brackish, osher bushes, | | |a few tamarisks, shush grass and | | |reeds grow in the bed of the khor. | | | | | |From the khor a well defined track | | |runs all the way to Suakin. For 4 | | |miles ground is very stony and | | |broken; few sammur trees. | | | Khor Alifeyeit| 4 | 264 |Two hundred yards broad, 10 feet | | |banks, sandy bed. Ground now | | |becomes sandy, and trees thicker; | | |samr, araag, heglig, labakh and | | |tundub trees. Gow grass during and | | |after rains; good sheep grazing | | |ground. | | | Khors Sedayat,| 5 | 269 |These four khors are all crossed Ashat, Erim, | | |in 1½ miles; no defined tracks; and Shadat | | |trees and bush in bed and | | |alongside the khors. A few miles | 1½ | 270½ |eastwards these khors open out | | |into the plain. For the next 3½ | | |miles ground is stony. | | | Khor Issi or | 1½ | 272 |Fifty yards broad, 2 feet banks. Issei | | | | | | Khor Sarobai | 2 | 274 |No defined tracks; sandy; trees | | |and bush. | | | Khor Wintri | 4¼ | 278¼ |A point of crossing; this khor has | | |commenced to divide up into | | |branches. | | | | | |Four miles on J. Gumberit is | | |passed 1 mile to the W. Country | | |more open; eastward a clear view | | |down to the sea. | | | Khor Gwob | 10¾ | 289 |One hundred to two hundred broad, | | |shallow, no defined banks. Ground | | |descends gently, and on reaching | | |the ridge, ¾ mile distant, the | | |town of Suakin comes in sight. | | |Trees become fewer and bushes Suakin | 8 | 297 |lower. --------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
9.—TOKAR TO KASSALA, _viâ_ KHOR BARAKA.
(VARIOUS.)
[Sidenote: Grazing.]
Plenty for camels, &c., all along the route.
[Sidenote: Water.]
Anywhere for the digging, except between Khor Lokweb and Khor Ali Gebrat, 28 miles, and between the latter and Kassala, 18 miles.
[Sidenote: Camping ground.]
Good anywhere along the route.
[Sidenote: Wood.]
Plenty for fuel and for making rough shelters.
[Sidenote: Going.]
On the whole excellent for camels, horses, &c. Convoys should not take more than 14 days to do the journey from Suakin.
Parties without heavy baggage should do it easily in 9 days.
N.B.—As the major portion of this route leads through Italian territory, it is not now generally used south of Khor Langeb (_vide_ note to Khor Langeb, 51st mile).
--------------+--------------------+---------------------------------- | Miles. | Place. +-------------+------+ Description. |Intermediate.|Total.| --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- Tokar | — | — |Leaving Tokar, the track runs a | | |little west of south across the | | |plains, leaving the Khor Baraka | | |channel to the west. | | | | 10 | 10 |Traversing a broken tract, covered | | |with eminences strewn with sand, | | |enter the Khor Baraka. Vegetation | | |on much larger scale; tall | | |tamarisk trees. Channel 50 yards | | |broad; hard sand; excellent going; | | |banks 10 to 12 feet high, and | | |thickly wooded. | | | | | |There are more routes than one; | | |sometimes along the channel, or on | | |either bank, according to season | | |or circumstances. Broadly, the | | |Beni Amer inhabit the eastern | | |bank, and the Hadendoa the | | |western. | | | _Temeren_ | 2 | 12 |(Tamenrê = 10 wells.) The wells | | |here, two in number, are situated | | |in the bed of the Khor Baraka, | | |depth about 20 feet, and produce | | |plenty of water of a brackish | | |nature. Another account (1897) | | |says two wells, close to fort; one | | |well only used, good water 50 feet | | |down. The khor here is about 80 | | |paces wide, with low banks, and is | | |comparatively bare of trees. | | |During the floods of the Baraka, | | |these wells are flushed, the water | | |being thick and impregnated with | | |alluvial mud. The country on the | | |left bank is open and stony, and | | |remains so until the line of the | | |Jebel Shaba hills is reached. To | | |the right bank of the khor a | | |certain amount of cultivation | | |exists, which increases in amount | | |as the Tokar delta is reached. | | |Heina range visible to south. | | | | | |Jebel Shaba lies 26 miles W.S.W. | | |of Temeren; track to it clearly | | |marked over stony plain by | | |occasional stone heaps. Contains | | |grass, ravines, shrubs, and | | |_numerous pools of water_ (July); | | |one large deep pool at foot of | | |hill containing water all year | | |round. Good look-out post in all | | |directions. | | | | | |The route, after leaving Temeren, | | |bears for a mile or so south-east | | |to avoid the numerous sand dunes | | |and drifts lying close to the | | |right bank of the khor, and then | | |changes southwards. | | | | 2 | 14 |A belt of considerable bush is now | | |passed through, after which the | | |country becomes open, rough, and | | |sandy; the khor about ½ a-mile to | | |the right-hand side. | | | _Well_ | 1 | 15 |One well; good water. | | | | | |The route continues in a generally | | |southerly direction, passing | | |through sand dunes, covered with a | | |considerable growth of tamarisk | | |bushes sufficiently high to | | |conceal a mounted man. | | | | 1 | 16 |Khor Toshikh joins the Baraka on | | |the west bank; route enters the | | |Baraka. | | | | | |Here large khor also runs in from | | |the east, main channel now from 30 | | |to 40 yards wide, banks varying to | | |30 feet high. Natives say the | | |whole of this bit of country for a | | |mile west, and to Jebel Haina | | |east, is under water in the rainy | | |season. Tamarisk bushes line each | | |side, nothing can be seen from the | | |channel. | | | | | |Seven miles on, track leaves the | | |khor, runs west on a sandy plain | | |for a mile. Eleven miles on a | | |black hill 150 feet high runs from | | |west bank half across the khor. | | | | | |The hill of Haina runs down to top | | |of channel on east side; a narrow | | |gorge is thus made, through which | | |the rush of water at flood is very | | |great. When it is a very high | | |flood, a channel is also formed | | |round the west side of the hill. | | |Just beyond this there are some | | |old disused wells in the channel Lower | 7 | 23 |that were known as Lower Debetawateb | | |Debetawateb. After this, the khor | | |opens out to about 800 yards wide, | | |sand dunes and scrub everywhere, | | |track winds round almost due west, _Upper | 3½ | 26½ |and reaches Upper Debetawateb, Debetawateb_ | | |where there are two wells, plenty | | |of good water, close to surface. | | |Track leaves channel here and runs | | |½ mile through thick jungle on to | | |east bank, and then winds round | | |south over sandy plain. Five miles | | |on, guide pointed due west to | | | _Odwan_ | 5 | 31½ |Odwan, lying in the khor, one | | |well. Eight miles on, hills of | | |Shaba and Heina run down to banks | | |of channel, track leads east of | | |some low hills, and khor is seen | | |winding west a good deal. | | | Tefadi | 5 | 36½ |Some large sand hills in khor, | | |guide said this was Tefadi. No | | |well, but water easily got by | | |digging. Track now leads over bad | | |ground broken up by watercourses, | | |sand dunes, &c., and re-enters | | |channel 4 miles on, then leaves it | | |and runs on to west bank, winding | | |gradually south-west into Khor Laiameib | 6½ | 43 |Farag Salem. (Laiameib.) | | | _Farag Saleib_| 3 | 46 |Here there are 12 or more pools of | | |water, rather salt. This khor runs | | |south-east into Khor Baraka, and | | |where it meets it, there is a | | |small stone enclosure on a hill | | |held by Arabs under Sheikh Abu | | |Fatma, called Langeb. There is one | | |well in valley at foot of hill. | | | | | |From Khor Farag Salem is seen | | |Jebel Ada Abab, about 10 miles to | | |the south-west. The track runs | | |from this khor south-east, then | | |south-west over rocky ground, | | |skirting the Khor Baraka, of which | | |the east bank is lined with hills. | | | Khor Langeb[8]| 5 | 51 |Five miles on track enters | | |channel, and 100 yards further | | |Khor Langeb[8] runs in from the | | |west, about 25 yards wide, and | | |described as similar to Khor | | |Baraka. Directly afterwards the | | |track leaves khor and proceeds for | | |8 miles over stony ground on west | | |bank, and then for 11 miles over | | |alternate rocky and sandy plains, | | |direction south, then re-enters | | |khor and passes pool of dirty | | |water, and after heavy going in | | |the channel reaches two pools with | | |any quantity of clear sweet water, _Tebhateit_ | 23 | 74 |called Tebhateit. | | | | | |[Other accounts of the road from | | |Khor Toshikh to Tebhateit are as | | |follows:— | | | | 10 | 22 |At 10 miles from Temeren a large | | |number of sandhills are reached, | | |covered with a good deal of scrub | | |and tamarisk trees. These | | |sandhills proceed from the | | |neighbourhood of the khor towards | | |the Jebel Heina; they are not of | | |any height, but would form | | |admirable concealment for horse | | |and foot men. After passing | | |through the sandhills, the route | | |re-enters the khor, being the | | |first point the khor is touched | | |since Temeren. The khor here is | | |about 50 paces wide, with a firm | | |sandy bottom, fringed by scrub, | | |though not of a dense character. | | | | | |There is also a track along the | | |west bank of the Khor Baraka from | | |Temeren to Langeb (Junker’s road), | | |but it is bad, leading through | | |thick bush and wood, and much | | |broken by numerous small khors. | | | _Debetawateb_ | 3 | 25 |Wells. About 35 water holes 5 feet | | |deep, situated close to west bank | | |of khor. Wells mostly together, | | |water brackish (April). The wells | | |are placed in what practically is | | |a gorge. The left bank rises in a | | |rocky hill from 150 to 200 feet | | |high, and gradually falls away | | |into a wide open stony plain, | | |which, with occasional rocky | | |isolated hills, extends to the | | |high mountain of Jebel Shaba. On | | |the right bank the hills are | | |higher, formed into numerous | | |peaks, the hills gradually losing | | |themselves in the Jebel Haina. The | | |rush of water down this gorge is | | |very considerable when the Baraka | | |is in flood; it is said to be of | | |such force as to sweep a camel | | |with ease before it. The hills of | | |this gorge would form a fair | | |position; though, perhaps, capable | | |of being turned by the west. Such | | |dense scrub approaches to within a | | |few yards of the south side of the | | |hill on the left bank that it | | |would enable an enemy on the hill | | |to defend himself from this bush | | |with reasonable prospects of | | |success, and make it a difficult | | |operation to touch the top of the | | |ridge of the hills without | | |carrying the bush. This gorge | | |would seem to be the best place to | | |put a barrage, should such a work | | |ever be contemplated. After | | |leaving the wells the route | | |follows the khor, which now opens | | |out very considerably. The west | | |bank is covered with dense bush, | | |mostly tamarisk trees; the east | | |bank has a considerable amount of | | |bush, but the belt is not so broad | | |or so high as that on the opposite | | |bank. | | | | 2 | 27 |After about ¾ hour is reached a | | |large patch of dura crop planted | | |in the bed of the khor, dense bush | | |continuing on the left bank; after | | |½ hour, reach a few water holes on | | |the right side of the khor, | | |evidently used for the cultivation | | |of the above-mentioned dura. After | | |passing the cultivation the khor | | |maintains the same general | | |appearance. | | | | | |From here a short cut may be made | | |to Tamatu by leaving the khor, and | | |marching over a scrubby plain, | | |going rough, and cut up by small | | |khors and hills. | | | | | |The path now leads by the right | | |bank of the khor, and clear of it; | | |the ground here is much cut up by | | |ravines and watercourses, covered | | |with dense bush, in fact might be | | |described as a regular jungle. | | |After passing this rough ground | | |the khor is again struck at | | | _Odwan_ | 4 | 31 |The khor here is in a channel 16 (meaning great| | |to 18 feet deep; the channel waterpot). | | |bifurcates, the old bed passing in | | |a westerly direction, the new | | |cutting for itself a passage in a | | |more northerly direction. Pools | | |here before the Baraka floods, | | |running water in winter. No | | |definite wells. On 16th July, | | |1894, the khor here was a rapid | | |stream, 40 to 50 yards broad, and | | |4 feet deep. | | | | | |Khor takes sharp bend to the west. | | |Bush on either bank very dense; | | |tamarisks and bushes bound | | |together with bright green | | |creepers. | | | _Tamatu_ (or | 6 | 37 |Fifty wells near west (?) bank of Tefadi?) | | |khor, 5 feet deep; water brackish. | | | | | |Route now goes along bed of khor, | | |good going, muddy soil with | | |patches of sand. Banks 4 feet high | | |and densely wooded. Four miles (?) | | |on, the khor is left, and an open | | |plain to the west crossed, covered | | |with scattered scrub, ground | | |generally stony. Spurs of Shaba | | |range extend to within half mile | | |of khor. | | | _Laiameib_ | 8 | 45 |Lies a mile to the west of the | | |Khor Baraka, and is reached by | | |proceeding up a stony tributary | | |khor with occasional trees, a few | | |dom palms marking the entrance to | | |the khor. This point is called | | |Khashm Lwi (?); sides of khor 50 | | |to 100 feet high. The wells lie at | | |the foot of a mass of irregular | | |rocks, which stop further advance. | | | | | |The reservoir of rain water is | | |situated under the rocks, and is | | |reached by a narrow downward | | |passage which finally opens into a | | |subterranean cave. The entrance to | | |the cave is sufficiently high and | | |wide to admit the passage of two | | |horses at the same time. The | | |water, perhaps 6 feet deep, is of | | |excellent quality and most | | |delicious to drink, covering about | | |15 feet square, and taking up the | | |greater part of the cave. | | | Khor Farag | 3 | 48 |Three miles south of the Khor Saleib | | |Laiameib, the Khor Farag Saleib is | | |crossed. Here the Baraka forms a | | |lake in flood time. | | | Langeb | 3 | 51 |The entrance to the khor of that | | |name, which trends south-west from | | |here. | | | _Tebhateit_ | 12 | 63 |Good wells; ground hilly. Jebel | | |Haggr, 6,000 feet. | | | | | |(From this point Captain McKerrell | | |is the authority.) | | | | | |After Tebhateit (74 miles) the | | |track now runs on to east bank, | | |and winds gradually south over | | |broken rocky ground; 5 miles on | | |re-enters khor, and runs through | | |dense mass of tamarisk and scrub | | |into channel 100 yards wide here, | | |and khor ½ to ¾ mile wide. | | | _Ambakta_ | 8 | 82 |Shortly afterwards reach Khor | | |Ambakta, with one well. This is | | |where Sudan-Eritrea boundary meets | | |the Baraka on the east bank. Jebel | | |Senad, to the west, is a good | | |landmark here, and Jebel Ayob, on | | |east. Channel now twists about a | | |good deal, then runs south-west; | | |both banks lined with hills. | | | _Hakhal_ | 8 | 90 |Eight miles on is Hakal; one well, | | |6 feet down, good water. | | | _Adardeb_ | 9 | 99 |Track continues south-west and | | |enters Eritrean territory, and 9 | | |miles on reaches Adardeb, with | | |three wells, 4 feet down; good | | |water. Three miles on channel | | |splits up and runs east and west; | | |track leads over ground between. | | |Very bad going over ground broken | | |up by watercourses and sand dunes | | |for next 6 miles; channel is then | | |re-entered and Khor Salha is | | |reached. | | | _Khor Salha_ | 10 | 109 |Five wells, 4 feet down, good | | |water. This is a large khor Khor Anseba | — | — |running in from the east, and is | | |itself joined by Khor Anseba, | | |about 10 miles east, which latter | | |khor comes from south-east. From | | |here Jebel Adarkalab, a very high | | |hill, is seen due south, and Jebel | | |Skena due west, a cone-shaped | | |hill. Track leaves channel here | | |and runs along east bank, passing, | | |3 miles on, two stone pepper pots, | | |built by Dervishes. Bad going over | | |very broken ground, intersected by | | |watercourses, for next 8 miles; | | |then re-enters channel and reaches | | |four wells, water 4 feet down, and | | |some small rain pools, from one of | | |which two fish were caught. One Jebel Sotai | 9 | 118 |hundred yards on is Jebel Sotai on | | |west, and Jebel Adarkalab on east, | | |bank; latter swarming with grey | | |monkeys. These hills are about 60 | | |yards apart, and the rush of water | | |between them at flood must be very | | |great. | | | _Akiduli | 4 | 122 |Four miles on is a black rock, (Koliteb?)_ | | |called “Akiduli,” on east bank, | | |with figures of camels, men, and | | |ostriches scratched over it. Water | | |here also in pools and old wells, | | |in places only 2 feet down. | | |Further on is Khor Attai, with | | |wells; water good, and 4 feet _Khor Attai_ | 2 | 124 |down. | | | | | |Track now runs south, and hills | | |recede on either side; khor | | |widening to about a mile east and | | |west; channel 100 yards, and | | |shallow, lined with thick tamarisk | | |and bush. Thirteen miles on passed | | |several wells, old and new, and | | |later khor contracts and hills run _Kolik_ | 18 | 142 |down on either flank; reach Kolik. | | | | | |Jebel Koreb is seen here, a | | |landmark to the west. There is | | |water. Then track leaves khor and | | |crosses west on to a wide, fairly | | |open, sandy plain. Long range of | | |black hills on east, running with | | |khor, country west much more open | | |and hills far away. Six miles on, _Khor | 6 | 148 |cross Khor Tamaguanti, running Tamaguanti_ | | |south-west, which is lined with | | |dom palms, has an old well with | | |good water, and a few inhabitants. | | |Track continues over plain passing | | |“Mala” of Sheikh Abu Tahir, who | | |was head of the Hadendoa tribe in | | |Mohammed Ali’s time. Here there | | |are between 200 and 300 graves; | | |plain is covered with coarse grass | | |and acacia. | | | _Khor Lokweb_ | 11 | 159 |Track now leaves Khor Baraka and | | |enters Khor Lokweb, a large khor | | |running into the Baraka from the | | |south-west; channel, lined with | | |any number of dom palms, 100 yards | | |wide; banks 15 to 20 feet high. | | |Two good wells here, water 5 feet | | |down; track continues in khor, | | |direction south-west, for 2 miles | | |and comes to two new wells, water | | |6 feet down. Then leaves khor to | | |avoid heavy sand, and runs | | |parallel to it on west bank, but | | |here also going is bad, over very | | |broken ground covered with bush. | | |Eight miles on track runs over | | |rocky ground, two hills appear on | | |both flanks. Sixteen miles on | | |passes old stone house on hill to | | |left and shortly after re-enters _Khashm El | 19 | 178 |Khor Lokweb at spot called Khashm Kawab_ | | |El Kawab, where there were two | | |wells, water 3 feet down, slightly | | |salt. Track now runs south-west | | |and then for 8 miles west. Channel | | |blocked by large stone boulders | | |after first mile, bad going | | |through deep sand, dom palms on | | |both banks, also saw two withered | | |Tebeldis with edible fruit like an | | |elongated pear. Six miles on _Khashm | 6 | 184 |reached three wells called Khashm Hodelt_ | | |Hodelt. Eight miles on, left khor | | |and marched west over plain, | | |covered with acacia, &c. Then re- _Khashm | 6 | 190 |entered khor and reached three at Ribdab_ | | |Khashm Ribdab, good water. | | | | | |No water for the next 28 miles. | | | | | |Track leaves Khor Lokweb now, | | |which runs west, and enters Khor | | |Ribdab. Channel 50 to 100 yards | | |wide, with low banks covered with | | |bush, hard sandy bottom, excellent | | |going, direction due south. | | |Sighted here, due south, curious | | |grey hill, with top sticking up Jebel | 8 | 198 |like a chimney, called Jebel Irkit Irkit-Anob | | |Anob, a good land mark. Natives | | |said no one had ever been able to | | |climb to its top. Three miles on | | |reached plain, where the old | | |Mamuria stood. Five miles on | | |passed close to the above- | | |mentioned hill, leaving it on our | | |left. Track shortly afterwards | | |leaves khor and runs west over | | |plain of acacia, coarse grass, &c. | | |Nine miles on reached hill called | | |Tiniki, with a single thorn tree | | |on its east shoulder, moved round | | |its east flank in single file into | | |plain beyond; direction west, bad | | |going, and axes had to be used in | | |places. Fifteen miles on sighted | | |Jebel Kassala to south-west. Bush- | | |grown plain. Shortly after track | | |passes between low hills on the Jebel | 16 | 214 |right, called Shushaieb, and a Shushaieb | | |large burying ground on left, | | |called “Balad Ali Gabret,” and Khor Ali | 4 | 218 |enters shortly after khor of that Gabret | | |name, running south and west, with | | |six wells of good water, 4 feet | | |below surface. Plenty of shade. | | |Jebel Sabderat is seen on left | | |front. | | | | | |Track now leaves khor and runs | | |south-west over grassy park-like | | |plain, covered with bush, &c. Bad | | |going in places. Seven miles on | | |sighted Jebel Mokram and, passing Kassala | 18 | 236 |it on our left, reached Kassala, 3 | | |miles further on. --------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
10.—KASSALA TO MAMAN DIRECT.
BY CAPTAIN H. H. MORANT, APRIL, 1900.
[Sidenote: General Remarks.]
The most direct road to Maman is the old telegraph route which leaves Kassala in N.N.E. direction past the north end of J. Mokram, and after following the new telegraph line for about 10 miles then turns nearly due north and leaves the new telegraph to the east. Country: good going, covered with scattered bush, but thicker along khors, some of which are more or less serious obstacles in the rains. Though water is not plentiful along this route it was sufficient in April, 1900, to enable a party of 50 Camel Corps, 2 horses, 50 natives on foot, and 2,000 head of cattle and sheep to reach the wells at Tukruf, near Kassala, without any special arrangements for water.
Maman is on the direct road to Suakin: for portion of route to Suakin N. of Maman, _vide_ Route 8.
--------------+--------------------+---------------------------------- | Miles. | Place. +-------------+------+ Description. |Intermediate.|Total.| --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- Kassala | — | — | | | | _Khor Girger | 19 | 19 |Bir Galgal in Khor Girger; very (Wells)_ | | |little water in April, 1900. | | | | | |From here the track continues | | |N.N.E. by N., passing about midway | | |between Jebels Roreb and Shushaieb | | |to the northern extremity of the | | |latter, where there are several | | |wells in the khor called _Tendelai-i ( | 12 | 31 |Tendelai-i. These wells had also Wells)_ | | |very little water. From here the | | |track continues in the same | | |direction, good going, country | | |open and grassy, scattered bush | | |except along khors, several of _Khor Telkuk_,| 20 | 51 | which are crossed, to Khor Telkuk, or El Ku, or | | |before reaching which Jebel Obillit | | |Obillit is passed about 2 miles to | | |the west. There was said to be a | | |well in the khor somewhere near | | |this jebel. From here to Maman, | | |country very open; good hard going | | |and short grass. Three more khors | | |are crossed, chief of which is | 9 | 60 |Togan. | | | _Maman_ | 5 | 65 |The wells in K. Maman. Many | | |Gemilab Hadendoas here. --------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
11.—ADARAMA TO BIR OSHI (KHOR LANGEB).
BY CAPTAIN KENRICK, 11TH HUSSARS, SEPTEMBER, 1901.
N.B.—The localities of wells and water in the country described in both the following Route Reports depend largely on the season and the year, and to a great extent on local rain storms. Much reliance cannot therefore be placed on previous reports.
--------------+--------------------+---------------------------------- | Miles. | Place. +-------------+------+ Description. |Intermediate.|Total.| --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- Adarama | — | — |After leaving Adarama the road | | |goes E. for about 6 miles over | | |sandy soil covered with tufts of | | |dry tabas grass. Jebel Asoteribab | | |is visible to the S.E. Khor Amab | | |is then crossed; this is always | | |dry, I was told; it comes from | | |S.E., and runs a little way | | |further to the N. Osman Digna is | | |said to have had his extreme E. | | |outpost of 20 men here to levy | | |blackmail on anyone coming to | | |Berber. There are acacia bushes in | | |this khor. Two miles after | | |crossing the khor, the range Jebel Jebel Tobrar | 2 | 8 |Tobrar comes into view. All bushes | | |cease here, and for 4 or 5 miles | | |the way is over an undulating | | |sandy country with tufts of | | |withered grass. On descending a Khor Shedieb | 5 | 13 |low sandy hill, Khor Shedieb is | | |met running S.W. and draining a | | |black, light sandy plain running | | |E. and W., along which the way | | |proceeds for 6 miles; low sand | | |hills to the S. The plain is | | |treeless, except a few stunted | | |bushes in Khor Shedieb. After | | |marching E. over this plain the | | |sand hills begin to close in at a El Yukreik | 7 | 20 |place called El Yukreik, where | | |there is a little shade from a few | | |small tundub bushes; this is said | | |to be full of water and green | | |grass in a rainy year, but it is | | |quite dry now; this is about 20 | | |miles distant from Adarama. The | | |direction is then eastwards | | |through a succession of valleys | | |shut in by low sand hills running | | |N. and S. about 3 miles by 3 | | |miles. One valley, just before | | |entering the Hegerib Plain in _Bir Kerikun_ | 15 | 35 |which Bir Kerikun lies, is full of | | |bushes and is cotton soil, but not | | |bad going; there must be a good | | |deal of water all over this | | |country in a good year, but it is | | |quite dry now. There is no grass | | |for horses the whole way; the | | |going is good, but a little heavy | | |over the sand hills from one | | |valley to another, and also, | | |except just when entering Wadi | | |Hegerib, 3 miles before reaching | | |Bir Kerikun. | | | | ¾ | 35¾ |On leaving Bir Kerikun, march N. | | |about ¾ mile to get over the low | | |sand hills, the way then goes E. | | |and slightly N. The road winds a | | |little when passing over the sand | | |hills to get out of the valleys, | | |which are exactly similar to those | | |about 12 miles before Kerikun, | | |except that there are more selem | | |or samr bushes in them, which give | | |a fair amount of shade. Just | | |before entering Wadi Todabanob | | |there is a valley which the Arabs | | |told me is capital grazing in a | | |good year. | | | Khor Shanfaiet| — | — |Khor Shanfaiet comes in at the | | |S.W. corner of this valley. Large | | |graveyard of Shebodinab Arabs | | |here. Going good; sand a little | | |heavy across the sand hills. No | | |grass fit for horses. On entering _Todabanob_ | 13¼ | 49 |Wadi Todabanob the wells lie at | | |the foot of a sand hill. They are | | |about 8 in number (though there | | |are others quite filled up in | | |other parts of the valley); three | | |only of these are open, and two of | | |these only had water in them; they | | |are unlined. They were:— | | | | | |Depth to water 14 feet. | | | | | |Depth of water 2½ feet (approx.). | | | | | |Circumference 3¼ feet. | | | | | |I got about 3 camel fantasses full | | |out of them. I have now learnt | | |from three sources that it was, as | | |I suspected at the time, only rain | | |water from the shower two nights | | |before. They are now almost dry. | | |Excellent shade in Todabanob from | | |large sayal trees; no grass; must | | |be swamp in a wet year. No Arabs | | |at all on the route. Wadi | | |Todabanob runs N. and S. Khor | | |Derudeb comes in at S. E. (about). | | | J. Sanai | — | — |After passing eastwards over the | | |sand hills leading out of Wadi | | |Todabanob, J. Sanai comes into J. Ararab | — | — |view in the E., and J. Ararab to | | |S.E.; after a switchback course of | | |about 2½ miles over the sand hills Wadi Shakauni | 2½ | 51½ |the road drops into Wadi Shakauni, | | |half of which is covered with | | |withered Tabas grass, and a little | | |green grass, tundub bushes, and | | |Senna, the remaining half barren | | |sand; this is crossed after | | |marching 3 miles. On ascending a | | |slight ridge the sand hills are | | |left, and Khor Derudeb comes into | | |sight about 6 miles off, running | | |in a half-circle from N.E. to S.W. J. Tebilol | — | — |J. Tebilol, in the E., is also | | |sighted. The ground just before Khor Derudeb | — | — |coming to Khor Derudeb, as in the | | |low-lying parts of all these | | |khors, is cotton soil, but the | | |going is not bad. About 12 miles | | |from Bir Todabanob, Khor Derudeb | | |is crossed at a point called El _El Garud_ | 9½ | 61 |Garud, where there are rain pits; | | |these cannot be relied on for | | |water. The way now goes eastwards | | |for about 11 miles over a stony | | |plain, but good going on tracks, J. Tebilol | — | — |past J. Tebilol and Khor El Ashob. | | |There was very little water when I _Khor El | 10½ | 71½ |came here, but a violent storm Ashob_ | | |came on in the night and brought | | |down the khor; after such a storm | | |there is plenty of water, | | |sufficient, I think, to last for | | |four or five months. There was one | | |large pool of water, 40 yards | | |long, 8 yards broad, and 10 feet | | |deep. Plenty of shade near the | | |khor, and good grass on the banks. | | |The plain just before Khor El | | |Ashob is treeless; the going the | | |whole way is good. | | | Jebel | — | — |The road goes eastwards through Wararaweb | | |the pass of J. Wararaweb, but | | |there are several miles (3) of | | |cotton soil to pass first. The | | |pass itself is very stony, broken | | |ground and bad going for about 3 Khor Hambokeb | | |of 4 more miles. Then S.E. over a | | |very stony plain for 10 miles to Khor Godamaieb| — | — |Khor Godamaieb; this plain is | | |crossed by small khor, near which | | |and in which there is always a | | |little green grass and some shade. | | |Khor Godamaieb was dry. The well _Tisharam_ | 38½ | 110 |Tisharam is on the west bank, and | | |is a very good one, though | | |unlined; its dimensions were:— | | | | | | Depth to water 9 feet. | | | | | | Depth of water (good) 5 feet. | | | | | | Circumference 7 feet. | | | | | |I was told Osman Digna usually | | |went _viâ_ Khor El Ashob, Bir | | |Delai and Khor Delai to Khor Araf. | | |Plenty of dom palms on each bank, | | |some coarse green grass; remains | | |of a very large old well filled | | |up. | | | | | |Cross Khor Godamaieb, about 50 | | |yards wide, march N.E. over a road | | |for the most part stony, except 2½ | | |miles from Khor Godamaieb, where Khor Angwatiri| 2½ | 112½ |Khor Angwatiri is crossed; there | | |is green grass in plenty, and some | | |shade from thorn bushes. It was | | |full of Gemilab Arabs and their | | |flocks, who water away to the E. _Khor Amboreb_| 7½ | 120 |in Khor Amboreb, where there are | | |some pools of water. After 5 miles | | |further you enter the hills, and | | |there are 4 miles of very bad | | |stony going in and out of small | | |khors in the midst of stony | | |mountains till you descend into Khor Barshoi | 4 | 124 |Khor Barshoi, about 1 mile long, | | |with dom palms on both banks; then | | |Khor Araf comes in from the N.W., | | |and the way to Khor Langeb is up | | |this khor, averaging 30 or 40 | | |yards in width, thick dom trees on | | |either bank, coarse green grass in | | |places, but not in any great | | |quantity. The mountains all | | |through run down to the dom palms _Khor Araf_ | 6 | 130 |on the banks of the Khor Araf on | | |each side; away in the distance | | |are some very high stony peaks. A | | |very few Gemilab were in the khor. | | |The going on the whole is very | | |good in the khor, except in a few | | |places where the sand is heavy. | | |About 5 miles from junction of | | |Khor Araf with Khor Barshoi was a | | |pool of rain water near the left | | |bank, about 15 yards long, 4 yards | | |broad, and 2 feet deep. The pool _El Getite_ | 11 | 141 |to be relied on is El Getite, on | | |left bank of Khor Araf, about 16 | | |miles from junction of Khor Araf | | |and Khor Barshoi, and 31 from Bir | | |Tisharam; it is rainwater and will | | |last 4 months. It is close up to | | |the rock where the hills run down | | |into the khor. It is 209 yards | | |long, 10 yards broad, and 10 or 12 | | |feet deep. Muddy water, but quite | | |wholesome. | | | _Umna Dunyin_ | 10 | 151 |The road then goes on down Khor | | |Araf with many twists and turns | | |till the pool of rain-water called | | |_Umna Dunyin_ is reached, about 10 | | |miles from El Getite, but 15 yards | | |long and about 6 yards broad, 4 or | | |5 feet deep in the centre, will | | |probably last 2 months more. After | | |2½ miles from Umna Dunyin, J. | | |Hambolib is in sight, round which | | |the khor twists for about 3 miles, J. Hambolib | 2½ | 153½ |till the _wells_ called _J. | | |Hambolieb_ are passed. They are | | |filled up with sand, and only a | | |person who knew them well would | | |know they had ever existed. | | |However, I was told there is water | | |underneath; if so, a small fatigue | | |party could clean out the sand in | | |a few hours. I think Khor Langeb | | |joins Khor Araf just near here, | | |running due E. here. Dom palms, | | |tarfa jungle, and small quantity | | |of green grass on the banks. Five | | |miles up this khor, on left bank, _Bir Oshi_ | 4½ | 158 |is Bir Oshi, at mouth of small | | |Khor Oshi; the same remarks apply | | |to Bir Oshi as to Bir Araf. _Bir | | |Gabati_, slightly further on, I | | |was told is the same. There is, I | | |am told, water in _Khor Odi_, and | | |a big _pool at Areiwat_, and no | | |lack of water further on. On the | | |right bank on entering Khor Langeb | | |are some graves on a hill, said to | | |be the graves of Roman soldiers; | | |the Hadendoas are afraid of | | |opening them, though they think | | |there is treasure there. | | | | | |Bir Oshi is distant about 48 miles | | |from Bir Tisharam, this is owing | | |to the twists the khor makes, and | | |one is not able to leave Khor Araf | | |often on account of the hills | | |coming down close to the banks of | | |the khor and rendering the ground | | |impassable. --------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
12.—EL GETITE (IN KHOR ARAF) TO ADARAMA, _viâ_ BIR DELAI AND TENDERA.
BY CAPTAIN KENRICK, SEPTEMBER, 1901.
--------------+--------------------+---------------------------------- | Miles. | Place. +-------------+------+ Description. |Intermediate.|Total.| --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- El Getite | — | — |March from El Getite to junction | | |of Khor Araf with Khor Barshoi Khor Barshoi | 17 | 17 |(_vide_ previous route report), | | |then march for 2 miles N.W. up | | |Khor Araf almost to its source; | | |the khor narrows here and the path | | |is a little stony in places, then | | |turn W. over a stony plain for 2 | | |miles, very fairly good going Khor El Ashob | 4 | 21 |until the source of Khor El Ashob | | |is reached. From this place may be | | |sighted sources of Khor Araf and | | |Khor Amboreb, which runs away | | |apparently S.E. There was plenty | | |of grass and shade here. Leaving | | |Khor El Ashob, which runs away to | | |the N.W., afterwards turning S.W. | | |again to join Khor Derudeb, march Khor Delai | 7½ | 28½ |S.W. to Khor Delai, 7½ miles | | |distant; road stony, but good | | |going on sheep tracks, the stones | | |are not very thick, nor is it | | |rocky. Cross several khors _en Khor Beida | — | — |route_, Khor Beida is one of them; | | |there is a little grass in all of | | |these. On reaching Khor Delai, | | |after going a few yards down the _Bir Delai_ | — | 28½ |khor the well is reached in the | | |centre of the khor, recently | | |cleaned out by the Arabs, but | | |there are none here now. The well | | |is lined with wood. | | | | | |Depth to water 3½ feet. | | | | | |Depth of water 10 „ | | |(very clean) | | | | | |Circumference (approx.) 7 „ | | | | | |Good cattle watering places round | | |the well. Good shade. Some green | | |grass in the khor. | | | | | |After leaving Bir Delai, first | | |march 5 miles along right bank of | | |Khor Delai (looking towards mouth | 5 | 33½ |of khor), direction W., cross the | | |khor at the point where it runs | | |slightly N.W. to join Khor El | | |Ashob, then 8 miles over stony, | | |but very level plain, excellent | | |going in cattle tracks and sheep _Pool El | 8 | 41½ |tracks S.W. to pool El Ashob in Ashob_ | | |Khor El Ashob, 40 yards long, 12 | | |feet deep and 8 yards broad. Well | | |filled up, 3 miles to N.W.; could | | |be opened if necessary in khor | | |under dom palm. | | | Khor Derudeb | 5 | 46½ |Leave Khor El Ashob, crossing to | | |right bank (looking towards | | |mouth), going in a westerly | | |direction 5 miles to Khor Derudeb, | | |cross this khor. A little cotton | | |soil on E. bank of Khor Derudeb, | | |going otherwise good, over light, | | |stony, sandy soil, but no shade | | |except at the khors. Then N.W. 10 Khor Abu | 10 | 56½ |miles further on to Khor Abu Sillem | | |Sillem, coming from N. of J. | | |Torbraa range; going good, grass | | |in Khor Abu Sillem, also shade. | | |N.W. still 6 miles further to Khor _Khor Breitak_| 6 | 62½ |Breitak, there I found two pools | | |of rain-water, muddy, but sweet. | | |They were in the khor and were | | |about 40 yards long, 6 yards broad | | |and 1 foot deep. About 5 miles of | | |some of the best grazing I have | | |seen in the country. The Sheikh | | |said the water had been there 2 | | |months and would only last 9 days | | |more, another Arab I asked said a | | |month more. The Sheikh also | | |pointed out the road to the N. to _Bir Tendera_ | 13 | 75½ |Bir Tendera; both he and my guides | | |said half a day’s journey, _i.e._, | | |13 miles, easy road, and it looked | | |good what I saw of it. Very good | | |shade here. | | | | | |From Tendera, Adarama is 40 miles | | |(Arabs 2 days, loaded camels), | | |road easy (there may be a little | | |cotton soil), some shade and grass | | |at Bir Tendera, also some shade at Sekotieb | 20 | 95½ |Sekotieb (?), 20 miles (about) | | |from Adarama. The well (Tendera) | | |itself is large, always has water | | |in it. | | | Adarama | 20 | 115½ |This information, though I have | | |seen the road as far as Khor | | |Shedieb and corroborate it so far, | | |is hearsay, as I had not time to | | |go there myself. My informants are | | |my two guides, Sheikh Mohammed Isa | | |and the Mulazim Awal, of Slavery | | |Department at Adarama, all of whom | | |have been there, and many Arabs | | |_re_ water. --------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
NOTE.—In the long grass (September) a large number of snakes exactly similar to the Indian cobra were met. I killed 4 on the march. The Hadendoa name for them is “kokwa” whilst the Ababda called them “Dugga.”
13.—UMBREGA (R. SETIT) TO SOFI (R. ATBARA).
BY CAPTAIN H. H. S. MORANT.—MARCH, 1900.
N.B.—For description of route further east and notes on this road, _vide_ Route 125, Appendix.
--------------+--------------------+---------------------------------- | Miles. | Place. +-------------+------+ Description. |Intermediate.|Total.| --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- Umbrega[9] | — | — |From here there is a tolerably | | |distinct track following the _Abedo_ | 3¾ | 3¾ |crest-line of the plateau, and the | | |river is seen and approachable _Godema_ | ¾ | 4½ |only occasionally, being always 1 | | |to 4 miles on left. The descents K. Turab Karuf| 1¼ | 5¾ |to Meshras Abedo and Godema are | | |passed, and then the burial ground Sheikh Ageil | 4 | 9¾ |and khor of Torab Karuf, further | | |on the district of Sheikh Ageil _El Zuhani_ | 1½ | 11¼ |and Meshra El Zuhani. From Sheikh | | |Ageil J. Esir and Lukdi are both | | |visible N.N.W. and S.S.W. | | |respectively, latter being on | | |boundary of Hamrans towards | | |Abyssinia. | | | Gat Wad El Hag| 6½ | 17¾ |Leaving this, the path passes | | |clearings of former cultivation, | | |and after 3 miles of thick bush, _El Hagar El | 1¾ | 19½ |Gat Wad El Hag. Meshra El Hagar El Zuruk_ | | |Zuruk is reached, and after | | |following bed of river for ½ a _Gira_ | 10½ | 30 |mile, plateau is regained, and | | |Gira is next Meshra. On left bank K. Lobetir | 6 | 36 |are cliffs, on which are situated | | |the ruins of the old Egyptian _K. Wad | 2 | 38 |Fort. K. Lobetir and K. Wad Heleiwa_ | | |Heleiwa being crossed, village of | | |latter name, which is the sole _Setit_ | 1¼ | 39¼ |existing one of Hamrans at present | | |time, is reached. From here Setit _Atbara_ | 7½ | 46¾ |is crossed, and later R. Atbara | | |and village of Sofi is reached. | | | _Sofi_ | ¾ | 47½ |Little game was seen between | | |Umbrega and Sofi. --------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
[Footnote 1: Camel transport.]
[Footnote 2: For further details regarding the water supply along this route _vide_ “Report on the Nile and country between Dongola, &c.,” 1898.]
[Footnote 3: Meaning “red stone” in Hadendoa.]
[Footnote 4: “Black stone” in Hadendoa.]
[Footnote 5: Fuel should be carried between Ariab and Maho Bey.]
[Footnote 6: From Suakin.]
[Footnote 7: Now many.]
[Footnote 8: If it is not desired to march through Italian territory from this point, the route mentioned in the previous report may be taken by marching up Khor Langeb to junction Khor Windi, and thence up the latter khor for about 20 miles until the eastern road is met.]
[Footnote 9: The Sudan-Eritrea frontier here runs from a point on the Hafeira-Umbrega road, marked by a blazed heglig tree, straight to the bend of the Setit immediately opposite the mouth of the Khor Royan, which enters the Setit on the left bank about 11 miles above Umbrega.]