Chapter 12 of 14 · 21363 words · ~107 min read

CHAPTER VII.

(BAHR EL GHAZAL.)

* * * * *

51.—MESHRA EL REK TO TONJ.

BY CAPTAIN H. D. W. LLOYD, JANUARY, 1904.

--------------+--------------------+---------------------------------- | Miles. | Place. +-------------+------+ Description. |Intermediate.|Total.| --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- Meshra El Rek | — | — |Leaving the Nuzl, the track | | |crosses a khor some 15 feet deep, | | |by a bridge partly under water. | | |After 100 yards bridge ends and | | |you wade waist deep for 3 miles. | | | _Camp_ | 3½ | 3½ |Always dry, but mosquitoes very | | |bad. Good water all the year | | |round. Very bad track leading due | | |S. between grass 7 feet high. | | |Ground much cut up by cattle | | |passing in the rains. | | | Unangarp | 7½ | 11 |A few Dinka tukls; no supplies N. | | |boundary of Lau district. Head | | |Sheikh Kwitol. | | | _Manashin_ | 2 | 13 |Water holes, which are said never | | |to dry up completely, situated on | | |W. of track. Good camp, well | | |marked by a deleib growing out of | | |centre of gemmeiza tree on track. | | |No supplies. | | | | | |Track continues nearly due S., | | |winds a great deal, and much cut | | |up. Bad going for man and beast. | | | _War Lai_ | 6¾ | 19¾ |A swamp, 300 yards W. of track. It | | |is said never to dry up; 300 by | | |200 yards. Fair drinking water. | | |Animals easily watered by digging | | |trenches. | | | _Fulbar_ | 6 | 25¾ |Road through an open forest, grass | | |lately burnt. Track better, but | | |much broken in places by old | | |elephant tracks. Fulbar is a large | | |swamp, said never to dry up. Many | | |elephant tracks. Good water. | | | | | |Leaving the pool, the track joins | | |the main road a mile on. Fair | | |track. | | | _Amangnok_ | 7 | 32¾ |A large swamp, good water, lasts | | |all the year, on W. of track, | | |which goes S. to Marra Alangjok, | | |passing the village of Sheikh | | |Angong Marial. | | | Mana Alangjok | — | — |A large Dinka cattle enclosure, | | |well-known throughout this | | |district. | | | _War Gel_ | 7 | 39¾ |Pools in a swamp. Water said to | | |last all the year. Bad shade. | | |Half-a mile on Sheikh Tioing’s | | |house is passed on the N. of the | | |road, and Sheikh Malwal Mabior’s | | |village over a mile long is left | | |to the W. | | | _Haleik_ | 7 | 46¾ |A swamp, left to W. of road, water | | |said to last all the year. Track | | |generally good, but cut up by | | |elephants in places. Sheikh Wal | | |Mabior’s village is entered 2 | | |miles from Ateim swamp. | | | _Wal Mabior’s,| 5 | 51¾ |A mile wide from E. to W., and 1½ or Ateim_ | | |miles from N. to S. Very good and | | |plentiful water. | | | _Mowok_ | 2 | 53¾ |A swamp 1 mile E. of road. Very | | |good track through open country. | | |Heglig trees and little bush. | | | _Mabior Dod’s_| 2 | 55¾ |Large swamps. Good water; called | | |Katoi. Fair shade. Good track | | |through rather open and perfectly | | |level country. Soil sandy in | | |places. | | | _Again Well, | 5 | 60¾ |Small water holes, little water. Ewal Gor’s_ | | |There is a good deal of | | |cultivation about, and Dinka huts | | |every few hundred yards. | | | _Sheikh Bak | 4 | 64¾ |Four bad and one good water holes. Bong Yep’s_ | | |Latter known as Abaing, after a | | |small tree near it; watered 200 | | |men easily. The four other holes | | |just satisfied 100 donkeys. Fair | | |shade. Obtained some dura. | | | _Teing Teing | 1 | 65¾ |One fair well, or rather hole; well_ | | |water for 30 or 40 men. Good going | | |on the whole. | | | “Dug-Dug” | 4 | 69¾ |Site of an old cattle enclosure, (ruins) | | |marked by some mounds of earth and | | |some usher bushes. | | | _Atubbu_ | 11 | 80¾ |One water hole; dirty water, but | | |enough to give 200 men a drink. | | | _Aweid_ | 2 | 82¾ |A small swamp, but plenty of fair | | |water. Fair shade under heglig | | |trees. Track passes across an open | | |plain covered with grass, which in | | |places is 10 feet high. Few trees, | | |but trees of the Tonj valley seen | | |in the distance to the S. Bad | | |going for first 3 miles, then very | | |good. | | | Atang’s (N. | 4¼ | 87 |The direct road to Tonj Post leads end) | | |to the W.S.W. Another, down a | | |khor, in which are several water- _R. Tonj_ | 3 | 90 |holes strikes the River Tonj. | | |Small camp on left bank. The river | | |bed is 65 yards wide and 15 feet | | |deep. Water 25 yards wide and 18 | | |inches deep. Good water; sandy | | |bottom. No mosquitoes. | | | | | |Leaving the river the track for 3 | | |miles goes through long grass, | | |then crosses a plain; grass at | | |first, then covered with grass and | | |bush. | | | _Abuior Sheikh| 9 | 99 |A small water hole (War Rual) on Maton’s and | | |W. of track at N. end of Sheikh War Rual_ | | |Matoin’s village (Abui). There are | | |a few more wells to the W., but | | |the best water is a mile to the E. | | |in a swamp. Good shade near road. | | | _War Tit_ | 2 | 101 |A pool 50 by 30 yards, now dry. | | |There is a small water hole near | | |the road. | | | | | |Very good track through bush, with | | |many large trees, until within a | | |mile of the river, when a belt of | | |forest is entered. | | | Tonj River | 5 | 106 | Post | | | --------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------

A great part of the above road is under water during the rains, and only passable to carriers.

52.—WAU TO MESHRA EL REK.

BY CAPTAIN H. D. W. LLOYD, MARCH, 1904.

--------------+--------------------+---------------------------------- | Miles. | Place. +-------------+------+ Description. |Intermediate.|Total.| --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- | | |The following is the Government | | |route and is used by all convoys:— | | | Wau | — | — |Crossing the river Jur, the track | | |enters high grass for a mile until | | |the E. side of the valley is | | |reached. Then thick bush and | | |ironstone ridges. | | | _Sheikh | 4 | 4 |Rest house and well 150 yards S. Malwal’s new | | |of track. Track continues over village (Jur)_| | |ironstone ridges, but bush is much | | |more open near the track. | | | _P. Rumbashia_| 5¾ | 9¾ |A rain pool 30 yards by 20 yards; | | |3 feet 6 inches deep when full; | | |now contains 18 inches water. | | |Halting place for bull transport. | | |A quarter-mile on there are 3 more | | |small pools in the rock. | | | _Sheikh | 1¼ | 11 |Jur name Rurruish. Rest house, 2 Malwal’s old | | |tukls, 1 shelter, and good well. village (Jur)_| | |Water trough. Bush now becomes | | |thick; many deserted villages | | |passed. | | | _Sheikh | 12 | 23 |So called, but he has now moved Moyen’s | | |some way N. of the road, rest (Dinka)_ | | |house, 2 tukls, 2 sheds, and 1 | | |rekuba. Well with good water. The | | |ironstone formation is left. | | | | | |Track over level plain, now dry | | |and covered with high grass, would | | |be very wet in rains. A few Dinka | | |houses are seen, many deserted | | |ones passed. | | | _Water hole_ | 9½ | 32½ |Six feet deep, 8 feet in diameter, | | |good, but much discoloured water. | | |Used by Aiyum’s people. | | | _Sheikh | 2½ | 35 |Extensive Dinka village chiefly N. Aiyum’s | | |of road. Rest house, 2 tukls, 2 (Dinka)_ | | |shelters, and large tukl for the | | |bull transport. | | | | | |Open grass-covered plain with | | |scattered trees. Swampy in rains. | | |Mosquitoes troublesome. | | | _Bir El Jaalin| 7 | 42 |Old wells in clump of deleib (Arab), Malau | | |palms, site of old village. (Dinka)_ | | | | | | _Deleiba_ | 8 | 50 |Rest house, 3 tukls, 1 bad well; | | |water gave out after 30 men had | | |drawn their water, but well | | |refills quickly. Many deleib | | |palms. Mosquitoes. | | | | | |Track winds to avoid the bush, | | |which is thick some 200 yards away | | |from the track W. | | | “_Dug-Dug_” | 5 | 55 |Rest house, Dinka name Noi. 3 | | |tukls and 2 good wells. | | | | | |Track again winds about to avoid | | |the thick bush. Very thick grass | | |in places. | | | _Bir El Gurud_| 6 | 61 |Rest house, 3 tukls. Two wells | | |(one now dry), 8 feet deep. Good, | | |but muddy water. After passing | | |through a belt of bush 300 yards | | |wide the country becomes perfectly | | |flat and open. Covered with high | | |grass and scattered trees. Little | | |bush anywhere. The going is bad as | | |the track from here to Meshra. is | | |mostly under water during the | | |rains. | | | _Old wells | 7½ | 68½ |Could not obtain name. A well- near single | | |known place and site of old Dinka deleib palm_ | | |village. | | | _Sheikh | 3½ | 72 |So called. Sheikh Bok is the chief Gadein’s_ | | |man. A large village. Rest house, | | |2 good tukls, 1 shelter. Good | | |water from wells. Depôt for bull | | |transport. Road and country as | | |before. | | | _Gemmeiza | 9 | 81 |Well-known halting place, as there tree_ | | |is a pool 50 yards in diameter | | |which holds water for some 6 or 8 | | |weeks after the rains. | | | _Rest house W.| 6 | 87 |Two tukls and shelter under end of Sheikh | | |gemmeiza tree. Wells dry 13th Mayik’s | | |March, 1904. Route winds much village_ | | |through the village. | | | _Rest house E.| 5½ | 92½ |Two tukls, 1 shelter under a end of Sheikh | | |single deleib palm. One well 15 Mayik’s | | |feet deep, 8 feet in diameter, 3 village | | |feet of good clear water. No (Dinka)_ | | |people seen; they are said to have | | |gone down to the river with their | | |cattle. | | | | | |Country good, level, and open as | | |before; but track somewhat better. | | | | | |Three miles from the rest house | | |there is a water hole 50 yards S. | | |of track near a small deleib palm, | | |8 feet deep, 10 feet in diameter; | | |good water. | | | _Sheikh | 9 | 101½ |Rest house at W. end of village; 3 Madal’s | | |good tukls, 1 shelter, good well. (Dinka)_ | | |Dinka name of well Atien ful. The | | |native houses are chiefly on the | | |N. side of the wood and ½ a mile | | |away. | | | _War Kul_ | 4¾ | 106¼ |(War = pool) Pool 20 yards by 10 | | |yards. Good water situated in a | | |swamp now dry. There is a clump of | | |bush on higher ground 100 yards | | |N., which would be a dry spot for | | |a camp. | | | _Sheikh | 1¾ | 108 |Rest house. Two tukls and well, at Amien’s | | |W. end of village which is (Dinka)_ | | |scattered along the route for 3 | | |miles. Road has been cleared in | | |the village and ruts caused by | | |traffic in rains filled up. The | | |going then becomes bad. Black | | |soil; grass, and a few scattered | | |trees. Three miles from Meshra, | | |high grass and a swamp is entered. | | |Going very bad and water waist- | | |deep in places. Close to the Nuzl | | |a khor is crossed by a bridge, but | | |it is now 2 feet 6 inches under | | |water. | | | _Meshra El | 11 | 119 | Rek_ | | | --------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------

53.—TONJ POST TO WAU.

BY CAPTAIN H. D. W. LLOYD, FEBRUARY, 1904.

--------------+--------------------+---------------------------------- | Miles. | Place. +-------------+------+ Description. |Intermediate.|Total.| --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- | | |The whole of this road is over | | |ironstone ridges, except where it | | |is crossed by khors. The going is | | |good and in many places the bush | | |has been cleared. It is proposed | | |to clear a route from Tonj Post, | | |_viâ_ Jur Ghatas to Kawagana, and | | |thence follow this route to Wau. | | | | | |There was sufficient water | | |everywhere in February, 1904, | | |along this route for 300 men and | | |100 mules. | | | Tonj Post | — | — |The route follows the left bank of | | |the river Ba, at first, to Morgan | | |Bongo’s house, and thence bears | | |slightly N. of W. Good track, but | | |thick bush, and grass on both | | |sides until within a mile of | | |Aiidu’s wells, when cultivation is | | |entered. | | | _Sheikh | 10 | 10 |A small Jur village, to W. of Aiidu’s_ | | |which is the rest house; 2 good | | |tukls. Good water from wells. | | | | | |Track continues through thick bush | | |and grass, crossing some grass | | |covered swamps, now dry. | | |Ironstone, good going. A mile from | | |the next rest house the track | | |descends a steep bank, 81 feet | | |high, and crosses a small khor. | | | _River house | 8½ | 18½ |On right bank. One good hut, but at River | | |little shade near. Water from Mulmul_ | | |pools in bed of river. The track | | |now crosses the valley of the | | |River Mulmul, which is flat, | | |covered with thick grass, and very | | |swampy in the rains. There is a | | |khor on the left bank of valley, | | |and some wells 2 feet deep. Good | | |and plentiful water. Route passes | | |through Sheikh Agan’s village and | | |over a stony ridge to the rest | | |house. | | | Rest house, | 4½ | 23 |The village is called Mudi. Two _Sheikh | | |good tukls. Water from wells in Agan’s_ (Jur) | | |River Mulmul. | | | | | |Good track, but much high grass. | | | _Sheikh | 3½ | 26½ |A small village with little Arum’s_ | | |cultivation. Two tukls for rest (Bilanda) | | |house. Road now winds a good deal | | |through high grass and bush, and | | |crosses several places that are | | |swampy in the rains. | | | _Sheikh | 6½ | 33 |Rest house of 2 tukls and a Akuong_ (Jur) | | |rekuba; water from well. | | | _Munga well_ | 2½ | 35½ |There is a small rekuba on N. of | | |road. The wells are 300 yards S., | | |and consist of 3 holes 4 feet deep | | |with 2 feet of good water, which | | |flows in quickly. Full of frogs. | | |Immediately beyond cultivation and | | |the village commence. | | | _Sheikh | 1½ | 37 |Rest house is at N. end of Kangor’s_ | | |village. Four tukls, water from | | |Manga well. Bush and high grass. | | |Route crosses one place that must | | |be very wet in the rains. | | | _Kawagana_ | 3½ | 40½ |A rock-pool 60 yards by 25 yards, | | |and 2 feet 6 inches deep. Good | | |clean water, said to last all the | | |year. Rain water; no spring. Two | | |tukls, bush thick. The direct road | | |from Tonj Post, _viâ_ Jur Ghatas, | | |comes in here. | | | Khor | 4 | 44½ |300 yards wide and 30 feet deep, | | |ironstone sides; no water. Only 80 | | |yards show signs of being swampy | | |in the rains. Track crosses | | |another khor and then ascends a | | |ridge (60 feet) which it follows | | |for 2 miles and then descends into | | |Khor Mbili, where there is a rest | | |house with ghafir. | | | Rest house in | 4 | 48½ |Three tukls. Water from wells in _Khor Mbili_ | | |khor. Road has been cleared for 2 | | |miles on each side. | | | Khor Tala | 3 | 51½ |20 yards wide and 10 feet deep, | | |bridged. Route now ascends an | | |ironstone ridge for a mile and | | |then winds round it. Wide valley | | |to the E., with deleib palms. 3¼ | | |miles from next rest-house there | | |is a steep ascent of 50 feet. Bad | | |going. The track then crosses | | |greyish soil for a mile and again | | |passes over ironstone rock. | | | Rest house, | 9 | 60½ |Eight tukls (4 old). Many deleib “The | | |palms about. Good water from _Deleib’s_” | | |wells. For the next 3 miles there | | |is thick bush. The grassy valley | | |of the Khor Abongo is then struck. | | | _Khor Abongo_ | 4 | 64½ |Khor which is 20 yards wide and 10 | | |feet deep, bridged. The river Jur | | |is now to the W. of the track | | |which follows its right bank, | | |between the high grass which | | |covers the valley and an ironstone | | |ridge 30 to 50 feet high, covered | | |with very thick bush. Wau is seen | | |on the left bank. | | | | | |East of Wau the track crosses the | | |valley (1 mile wide) through very | | |high grass. The river Jur here is | | |on the W. side of the valley, 100 | | |yards wide with banks from 15 to | | |20 feet high. On 3rd February, | | |1904, there was 2 feet 9 inches | | |water in the ford. Sandy bottom. | | | Wau | 5½ | 70 | --------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------

54.—TONJ TO RIKTA’S VILLAGE.

BY CAPTAIN H. D. W. LLOYD, FEBRUARY, 1904.

--------------+--------------------+---------------------------------- | Miles. | Place. +-------------+------+ Description. |Intermediate.|Total.| --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- | | |There is no obstacle on this route | | |to the movement of men, mules or | | |donkeys, during the dry season. | | |But a very little rain would make | | |many of the khors impassable to | | |animals. The river Ba during the | | |rains would have to be crossed in | | |boats. There was ample water for | | |500 men and 300 mules or donkeys. | | |The route lies chiefly over | | |ironstone rock, with black | | |alluvial soil in and near the | | |khors. | | | Tonj River | — | — |Leaving the fort the road follows Post | | |the left bank of the river Ba; | | |good track. | | | Khor | 3 | 3 |20 yards wide, 5 feet deep, muddy | | |bottom, if not bridged would be a | | |serious obstacle. Track skirts the | | |forest. | | | River Ba | 3 | 6 |The actual valley is 1½ miles | | |wide, alluvial soil covered with | | |grass 6 to 8 feet high, now dry. | | |The river channel 75 yards wide, | | |12 feet deep, and has been bank | | |full of water this year. Water in | | |January 30 yards wide, 20 inches | | |deep, sandy bottom. No difficulty | | |in ascending banks. | | | | | |There is now a slight track only. | | |The route followed the edge of the | | |forest on the right bank of the | | |river Ba. Good going, but the | | |khors running into the river would | | |be difficult after rain. Water for | | |drinking obtained from khors. | | | 13th mile | 7 | 13 |Route leaves valley of river Ba | | |and follows the right bank of Khor | | |Sunni. Good going, khor from 50 to | | |1000 yards from route which | | |followed the edge of the forest. | | |Bush seldom very thick, but grass | | |troublesome in places. | | | Pool Dam Lkobo| 20½ | 33½ |Route crosses to left bank of Khor | | |Sunni 20 feet deep, 3 yards wide | | |at bottom, 25 yards wide at top; | | |running water 6 inches deep. | | | Pool Gutti | 2 | 35½ |Large pool in khor, said never to | | |dry up. Guide was not very sure of | | |name, but place unmistakable. Bare | | |ironstone running from edge of | | |forest to khor. Running water now | | |ceases and the only water is in | | |pools. | | | | | |Route crosses several shallow but | | |wide khors full of elephant | | |tracks; high grass. | | | Da Kobi | 12 | 47½ |(Called by another guide, Akkuir). | | |Da = pool in Bongo. Dirty water | | |but quite drinkable. | | | Pool Dormunga | 6½ | 54 |Pool 100 yards long in khor, very | | |good water. Good shade near; road | | |crosses several ironstone ridges | | |and some low ground now dry, but | | |would be very swampy in rains. | | | Pool Higoli | 7½ | 61½ |Pool in khor. Good water. Good | | |going but thick bush. | | | Pool Kunga | 44¾ | 66¼ |Pool in a khor running into Khor | | |Sunni, 80 yards in diameter, good | | |clean water. Said always to | | |contain water. | | | Minobolo | 4¾ | 71 |Two miles before reaching | | |Minobolo, two deleib palms are | | |seen and the track crosses a small | | |khor. For 1½ miles this khor | | |contains a succession of pools. | | |Minobolo is the site of an old | | |slave dealers’ zeriba, 30 feet | | |above khor. Water said to last all | | |the year. | | | | | |The route follows the Khor Sunni, | | |crossing it twice and passing | | |several small pools. | | | Pool Riggu | 8 | 79 |In the midst of many deleib palms, | | |good water. Much game about. This | | |is the last pool on the Khor | | |Sunni. | | | | | |The country now rises slowly until | | |the route passes between two red | | |ironstone hills (rising 100 feet | | |above the track) covered with | | |bush. The route then descends and | | |enters the valley of the Khor | | |Takor which flows S.W. to the | | |river Ba. | | | Toko | 5½ | 84½ |Pool of good water; said to last | | |all the year. | | | Da Higi | 2½ | 87 |Pool of good water; said to last | | |all the year. Site of old Bongo | | |village. Route now follows right | | |bank. Good going. | | | Ungulu | 2¼ | 89¼ |Pool in khor; drying up rapidly in | | |February. Route crosses to left | | |bank, and a mile on there is a | | |large grey granite rock 30 feet | | |high, 50 yards in diameter. | | | Mungola | 2¾ | 93 |Pool in khor; said never to dry | | |up. Good water; some bad going due | | |to elephant tracks. | | | Dih | 3 | 96 |Several large pools which are said | | |never to dry up. Good shade. | | | | | |From here to Higola pool there are | | |two routes, an eastern and a | | |western. The former is the better | | |going but the latter has more | | |water on it. | | | | | | WESTERN ROUTE. | | | | | |Follows the Khor Takor for 2 | | |miles, then turns S., crosses the | | |Khor Teih at the Pool Ngomala, and | | |half a mile on enters valley of | | |the Khor Biuku, which flows | | |northwards and westwards to River | | |Ba; much bush and grass. Three | | |miles from Ngomala, route crosses | | |khor; rocky ground, bad going. | | |After 7 miles, Angaga, a pool in | | |Khor Biuku, is reached. Water said | | |to be dry up; much high grass. A | | |mile S., route again crosses the | | |khor and ascends an ironstone | | |ridge, which it follows for 5 | | |miles; good going; to Higola 5½ | | |miles, a pool fed by a spring, | | |situated on E. side of ridge in | | |the Khor Todor. | | | | | | EASTERN ROUTE. | | | | | |Route goes nearly S.E. for 2½ | | |miles, then turns lightly W. of S. | | | Khor Teih | 2½ | 98½ |Now nearly dry. One or two small | | |dirty pools. Khor 20 yards wide, 8 | | |feet deep, steep banks. Flows W. | | |to River Ba. A mile and a half on | | |the Khor Todor is seen E. of route | | |which follows the left bank to | | |Higola. Good going skirting the | | |bush. Valley of khor full of high | | |grass. The Khor Todor flows | | |northwards into the Khor Teih. | | | Higola | 5½ | 107 |Bad going for first 2 miles, | | |ascending a rocky ironstone ridge. | | |Thick bush. Then along the level | | |for 2 miles, when the end of the | | |ridge is reached. There is then a | | |rapid but easy descent of nearly | | |200 feet to the Khor Veitatei. | | |Route followed right bank to the | | |River Ba, but it is better to | | |cross the khor from 1 to 2 miles | | |before reaching the river. | | | River Ba | 11 | 118 |Forty yards wide and unfordable, | | |with slight current E. to W.; | | |following the bank for a mile | | |through high grass and crossing | | |the Khor Veitatei the river bends | | |S. Near a large Bolo tree. S. of | | |this tree is a good ford. Water 2 | | |feet 6 inches deep. Sandy bottom. | | | | | |Right bank easy, left bank had to | | |be ramped. Good shade on right | | |bank. None on left. | | | | | |Route now nearly due S., through | | |high grass. Near River Ba for 2 | | |miles. Then crosses a small khor | | |with running water and ascends a | | |hill to Sheikh Toin’s, the River | | |Ba being left to the eastwards. | | | Sheikh Toin | 5¼ | 123¼ |Village burnt 11th February. | | |Situated on top of a grey | | |sandstone hill. Water from pool in | | |Khor Maposho, a mile S. From this | | |village to Rikta’s there is a good | | |track. Much bush and high grass. | | | Khor Maposho | 5¾ | 129 |Track again crosses the khor. Two | | |good pools. Long grass and thick | | |bushes. | | | Hukwar’s | 7 | 136 |Small place. Good pools ¼ mile | | |N.W. Burnt 10th February. Track | | |continues through high grass and | | |bush for 4½ miles to the first | | |houses of Rikta’s village. | | | Khor Menza | 5½ | 141½ |A narrow but deep khor with | | |thickly wooded banks. Many pools | | |both above and below track. | | | | | |High grass, with clearings for | | |cultivation: dura, telibun and | | |maize (very little). | | | Khor Nabazibi | ¾ | 142¼ |A large khor, with thickly wooded | | |banks. Many pools of good water, | | |both above and below track. Was | | |bridged by Rikta, but bridge | | |burnt. There must be 7 feet of | | |water in the khor at times. The | | |width varies from 30 to 60 yards | | |wide, the more narrow portions | | |being between ironstone rock. | | | Rikta’s | — | — |The Sheik’s house (burnt 10th | | |February, 1904) was 250 yards from | | |the bridge. The village was | | |scattered along the higher ground | | |on both banks of the Khor | | |Nabazibi. Except where cleared for | | |cultivation, the country is | | |covered with scattered trees and | | |high grass. --------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------

55.—WAU TO TEMBURA.

BY CAPTAIN A. B. BETHEL, R.A., AUGUST, 1904.

[Sidenote: Water, etc.]

In the dry season, I consider that this road would present a good many difficulties in the way of water supply for troops or animal transport using it.

[Sidenote: Transport.]

In the wet season, the road is only fit for carrier transport, as many of the khors are so full that it would entail swimming the animals across, and carrying the baggage over by hand; bridging one or two more of the khors would assist matters a good deal, but the River Bo is too wide for a bridge to be thrown across it, and I think it quite possible that these small native-made bridges would be swept away in the deep khors. A small Berthon boat is indispensable to anyone using this road in the wet season.

[Sidenote: Track and country.]

The track is a well marked one the whole way. After leaving the Zeriba of Kutsuk Ali, the country becomes undulating till Khor Abera is reached, and there are several ridges, with steep ascents and descents; from this, the track is fairly flat till it reaches Tembura’s village, though, S. of Gedi’s village, it runs along the foot of the Undili Mountains. In the wet season, the track is very much overgrown with grass and short scrub to the S. of Ali’s Babai; N. of it, the grass is not so high, nor so thick, but the going is bad, as much of the track is under water, and it is especially so between Khors Gullamba and Gumbola.

--------------+--------------------+---------------------------------- | Miles. | Place. +-------------+------+ Description. |Intermediate.|Total.| --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- Wau | — | — | | | | River Wau | 4 | — |Good ford in dry season, about 2·6 | | |to 3 feet deep. | | | _Sheikh Kwol’s| 10 | 14 |3 rest houses, well in village, village_ (Rest| | |river 2 miles away. house) | | | | | | _Zeriba Kutsuk| 3 | 17 |2 small wells close to Zeriba. Ali_ | | | | | | Khor Kossukali| 12 | 29 |2 rest houses. (Rest house) | | | | | | _Khor Abera_ | 5 | 34 |2 rest houses, water all the year. (Rest house) | | | | | | Khor Tela | 7 | 41 |2 rest houses. (Rest house) | | | | | | _Khor Borda_ | 9 | 50 |Water said to be in a pool here | | |all the year. | | | Khor Nyeka | 9 | 59 |2 rest houses. (Rest house) | | | | | | _Khor Gumbala_| 10 | 69 |2 rest houses, water said to be in (Rest house) | | |pools all the year. | | | _Khor | 11 | 80 |1 rest house, deep khor, 5 feet Gullamba_ | | |deep in wet season, water probably (Rest house) | | |all the year. Rest house. | | | Khor Gomereh | 3 | 83 | | | | _Khor Deboka_ | 16 | 99 |Deep khor, water all the year, and Sheikh | | |Tukls in old village still intact. Ali’s Babai | | |2 rest houses. (Rest house) | | | | | | _River Bo_ | 12 | 111 |2 rest houses, easily crossed in (Rest house) | | |dry season; boat necessary in wet | | |season, as it is 80 yards wide. | | |Water all the year. | | | _Khor Gutti_ | 19 | 130 |Water probably all the year. | | | _Sheikh Wura’s| 6 | 136 |2 rest houses, water all the year. village_ | | | (Belanda) | | | (Rest house) | | | | | | _Gedi’s | 12 | 148 |1 Tukl and 1 Dahr-El-Tor, water village_ (Rest| | |all the year. house) | | | | | | _River Duma_ | 19 | 167 |Bridge, water all the year. | | | _Sheikh | 6 | 173 |Water all the year. Bumangedi’s | | | son’s village_| | | | | | _River Yebbo_ | 6 | 179 |Bridge, water all the year, about | | |15 yards wide. | | | Tambura’s | 3 | 182 | enclosure | | | --------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------

56.—WAU TO DEIM ZUBEIR.

MAJOR W. A. BOULNOIS, APRIL, 1901; AND LIEUTENANT-COLONEL SPARKES, APRIL, 1903.

[Sidenote: The country.]

All forest and jungle. Cultivated patches round Biselli. Country gets gradually more undulating, and hills and ridges are higher towards Deim Zubeir. Granite boulders and ironstone intermingled.

[Sidenote: Rivers.]

The Bongo and the Kuru. Both much the same, nearly dry in dry weather, probably full, and difficult to cross between May and October. Many khors, which would be a great obstruction to donkey or even mule traffic.

A waterless stretch for 30 miles from Khor Gitti to the Bongo in dry weather. There is a well out of use at Khor Gombolo, 11½ miles west of Khor Gitti, otherwise water is found at no greater distance than 15 miles interval in pools in the khors.

[Sidenote: The track.]

Is very indistinct in places.[27] Elephant tracks lead off which help to confuse it. Bushes and trees constantly intercept.

[Sidenote: Natives.]

Biselli is fairly populated with Golo and a few Kreich and Bari, originally from Deim Idris.

Deim Zubeir almost entirely Kreich.

Natives live on barley, roots, and berries of trees, and on honey a great deal at this time of year (April).

--------------+--------------------+---------------------------------- | Miles. | Place. +-------------+------+ Description. |Intermediate.|Total.| --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- Fort Dessaix- | — | — |Track leaves the river nearly due Wau Post | | |W.; several khors are crossed: | | |Khor Ganna at 2 miles, Khor Ngoa | | |at 9 miles, Khor Alfell at 10 | | |miles. | | | _Absaka’s_ new| 12 | 12 |Water from Well. Rakuba and hut village | | |for traveller. | | | | | |A track crosses the route at 12 | | |miles from the Jur Village Nuara | | |to iron furnaces 15 miles S.W. and | | |S. At Absaka’s old village, at 17½ | | |miles there is well water. | | | Ganna | 4½ | 16½ |A village taking its name from | | |another Khor Ganna is passed. Golo _Biselli (old | 9 | 25½ |villages to and at Biselli. Rest zeriba)_ | | |Rakuba for travellers. The old | | |zeriba is in ruins—few trees are | | |left; ½ mile further west the huts | | |and zeribas of Golo—Sheikh Limbo. | | |Water from Khor Gitti ½ mile N., | | |flowing N.E., always good. | | | | | |The track nearly all the way so | | |far is thoroughly thickly wooded | | |country, much intercepted by | | |shrubs, bushes, and branches. | | | | | |Hence track goes slightly S. or W. | | |for 4 miles along right bank of | | |Khor Gitti, passing French wooden | | |bridge over the khor to Village | | |Gumsi Golo, thence W. across Khor | | |Gitti. | | | _Khor Gombolo_| 10 | 35½ |Well giving bad water in dry | | |season (March to end of May). | | |Rakuba and huts. Dry route | | |crossing Khor Gombolo and Gamus | | |(native name, Ingataba), much | | |intercepted by bushes and trees to River Bongo | 20 | 55½ |River Bongo—steep banks; trees | | |close up to river banks; marsh ½ | | |mile broad, left bank; flowing | | |N.E. from S. about 30 yards broad | | |from bank to bank. Banks at low | | |water (14.3.01) about 20 feet | | |high, sandy bottom, always good | | |clear water in pools. Rakuba and | | |huts. A species of Tetse fly | | |infests the banks of this river. | | | | | |Thence through forest | | |country—higher ground—crossing | | |several khors, past Aboko hills at | | |11 miles, 1 mile N. of track, | | |whence a view is obtained. Granite | | |ridges about 600 feet high, trees | | |growing up to the summit. Khors | | |Karra and Ganna flowing towards | | |the Bongo water. | | | _Khor Ganna_ | 13½ | 69 |Water always in Khor Ganna (in | | |well in dry season). Rakuba and | | |huts. | | | | | |Several more khors are crossed. | | |Country getting slightly more | | |undulating. Several granite | | |outcrops and boulders are passed. | | | _Khor Gongoba_| 6½ | 75½ |Khor Gongoba, dry in dry season. | | |Three and a half miles further on, | | |Khor Idris, always water (both | | |have rakubas and huts). | | | _Khor Raml_ | 12 | 87½ |Khors Raml and Tena hold water in | | |pools in dry season, and flow S. _Khor Tena_ | 3½ | 91 |to Bongo. The former has rakuba | | |and huts. | | | _Deim Idris_ | 5 | 96 |Well situated on high ground | | |(gives bad water). Now in ruins. | | |Rakuba and huts. Small trees, | | |jungle, and wilderness. Palisades | | |of burnt wood poles show the | | |outlines of Gessi’s fort. The | | |earthworks of a battery and ruins | | |of two houses are visible. Two or | | |three wells are traced, now tilled | | |up. Three-quarters of a mile | | |further W. the ruins of Suleiman’s | | |fort is passed, touching the | | |track, and shortly after Khor | | |Gelaba is crossed, where once | | |stood houses and a Suk, now | | |wilderness. | | | | | |Country more undulating, and after | | |passing over a long ridge, the | | |khors are more numerous, and flow | | |northwards to Kuru river. Some | | |years nearly all hold _pools of | | |water in the dry season, but they | | |are often dry_. | | | _River Kuru_ | 23 | 119 |Steep banks 20 feet high, 30 to 50 | | |yards from bank to bank, very | | |slight current in stream, 6 feet | | |deep. Good water. Rakuba and huts. | | | | | |Very pretty banks with overhanging | | |trees on both sides. | | | _Khor Mubenga_| 7½ | 126½ |Always water. Rakuba and huts. | | | _Khor Ghanam_ | 17½ | 144 |Khor Ghanam. Crossed at the horse- (flowing S. to| | |shoe bend mentioned by Dr. Junker. Kuru) | | |Banks steep, 15 feet high, 15 | | |yards from bank to bank, always | | |water in pools. Rakuba and huts. | | | | | |Remains of Gessi’s entrenchments, | | |ironstone, 100 yards W. of left | | |bank. | | | | | |Track follows right bank of Khor | | |Uiri running into Khor Ghanam for | | |1 mile, then rising over a ridge | | |of 4 miles drops down the W. | | |slope, facing a valley with the E. | | |slope of Deim Zubeir ridge | | |opposite. Open ground—dura fields | | |and the fort in the front—Khor | | |Ujugu (spring water) is crossed ¼ | | |mile E. of the Fort of Deim Deim Zubeir | 6 | 150 |Zubeir. --------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------

N.B. No inhabitants between Biselli and Deim Zubeir.

57.—CHAK CHAK TO DEIM ZUBEIR.

BY LIEUTENANT FELL, R.N., APRIL, 1904.

58.—DEIM ZUBEIR TO KOSSINGA.

BY MAJOR W. A. BOULNOIS, 8TH MAY, 1901.

NOTE.—The regular track was not followed as the guide elected to try a short route and lost his way in the forest.

59.—KOSSINGA TO WAU (FORT DESSAIX).

BY MAJOR W. A. BOULNOIS, MAY, 1901.

--------------+--------------------+---------------------------------- | Miles. | Place. +-------------+------+ Description. |Intermediate.|Total.| --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- Kossinga | — | — |Track runs due E., passing through | | |a small village of Shat people. At | | |5 miles, cross Sopo river at a | | |ford, now dry (30.3.01), to _Lambe_ | 8 | 8 |village of Lambe, also Shat under | | |Sultan Nasser. The Shat tribe is | | |an off-shoot of Shilluk tribe. The | | |Luju khor joins the Sopo just S. | | |of track. Marshy ground for ¼ mile | | |from each bank of latter. | | | | | |Thence just S. of E. through | | |forest, ground slightly | | |undulating, pass well and Khor _Khor Angejok_| 7½ | 15½ |Angejok where there is water. When | | |pool dries, well is open. Bad | | |going owing to elephant tracks | | |across the khor; less than 3 miles | | |further on, the old Government | | |track from Deim Zubeir to Shakka | | |is crossed, now scarcely used. | | | _Khor | 6½ | 22 |Water is always found in Khor Lashirek_ | | |Lashirek in pools, and in a pool ½ | | |mile S. of track in Khor Babbi; _Khor Babbi_ | 5 | 27 |always water. Hence the track runs | | |slightly N. of E., and is much | | |intercepted by trees and bushes in | | |places for the next 8 or 10 miles, | | |then fairly open across Khors | | |Enniar and Adda Tumia, both dry _Khor Ayala_ | 25 | 52 |(1.4.01), to a well at Khor Ayala, | | |in which there is a little water. | | |Good track, going scarcely | | |impeded. The well here is only | | |opened when the pool in khor dries | | |up. | | | Abuia | 16 | 68 |Ironstone surface till Shat | | |village Abuia is reached. This is | | |in the district of the Dinka chief | | |Chak Chak of Chamamui. | | | _River Biri or| 4 | 72 |Thence to River Biri, known as Chel_ | | |Chel here, open low ground for 1 | | |mile before reaching the river, | | |which is 60 to 100 yards broad, | | |sandy bottom, banks 10 to 15 feet | | |high, very little water (2.4.01), | | |ankle deep at the ford, which is Chamamui | — | — |only 10 feet broad. Then up a | | |gradual slope to high ground for ¼ | | |mile to house of Sheikh or Sultan | | |Chak Chak (Dinka). A large village | | |with fine situation on long hill | | |sloping to the bank of the river. | | |Government post here. | | | | | |Track goes from ford slightly E. | | |of S. to S.E. through much dura, | | |and then E.S.E. past several huts | | |to Village Dambo at 2 miles and | | |Akot at 4 miles, both inhabited by | | |Dinkas and Golos to high ground, _Khor Alalla_ | 14 | 86 |ironstone surface to Khor Alalla | | |or Mali where there is always | | |water, 15 yards wide, broad banks | | |12 feet high and very steep. This | | |khor flows from N. of Deim Idris | | |and empties into the Chel or Biri. | | | | | |Half a mile further is the village | | |of Alalla (Dinkas) subject to Chak | | |Chak. | | | _Well Hadid_ | 7½ | 93½ |Hence track goes S.E. pass Well | | |Hadid and well in Khor Babbai, _Khor Babbai_ | 4 | 97½ |where there are some huts and | | |cultivation, now deserted. | | | Khor Kum | 15 | 112½ |Thence to Khor and Well Kum, | | |latter giving very little water | | |(Sparkes says plentiful and good, | | |and never dry, January, 1903). | | |Good going past ironstone ridge, | | |Ruku 60 feet high, no view | | |obtainable across Khor Ungu a _Khor Ajak_ | 17½ | 130 |tributary of Khor Ajak, which | | |latter is crossed with some | | |difficulty in the rains, to Khor Atta | 2 | 132 |village of Attah, close to right | | |bank of Khor Ajak. Golos, Jurs and | | |Dinkas under powerful Dinka chief | | |Agaka, brother of Chak Chak. The | | |district is called Ajak. | | | | | |Thence good track unimpeded S.E. | | |to S. to the marshes of the Bongo | | |river, with woods on right bank 3 | | |miles distant. The track skirts | | |the marshes of the left bank, | | |going along the high ground and | | |fringe of the forest. Khors | | |Dengmelah and Akweya (running into | | |the river from W.) are crossed at | | |5 and 7 miles respectively; and 7 | | |miles further on the track strikes | | |E. across the marsh, ½ mile to _River Bongo_ | — | — |Bongo river, which is crossed and | | |goes to the village of Lang (Jur) _Lang_ | 15 | 147 |on right bank at the edge of the | | |forest. | | | _Deimgnaui_ | 7 | 154 |Thence southerly along edge of | | |forest and swamp, across Khor | | |Wartum to Deimgnaui. The old | | |zeriba is now in ruins. | | | | | |Many Golo, Bari and Ndogo villages | | |are passed, Khor Warur (with water | | |being crossed 1 mile S. of | | |Deimgnaui). | | | _Damuri_ | 13 | 167 |Track goes due S. to house of | | |Sheikh Kayanga, with a fine zeriba | | |and the British and Egyptian flags | | |flying at Damuri, past more _Bukanda_ | 5 | 172 |villages with much dura, crossing | | |Khors Kambang and Akoli to Bukanda | | |a village of Baris. | | | | | |Thence S.E. through jungle for 12 | | |miles till the house of Sheikh | | |Salim Bari is passed, then 1 mile _Khor Gitti_ | 16 | 188 |to Khor Gitti, which is crossed 2 | | |miles lower down; 1 mile further | | |S.E. is the village of Sheikh | | |Ambua Indogo, where there is much | | |dura. | | | Marhu | 7 | 195 |Thence over high ground—no | | |villages—passing ruins of old | | |zeriba Marhu of which a few brick | | |foundations only are visible, | | |descending into the Jur and Dinka | | |village of Nuara, Sheikhs Melong Nuara | 9 | 204 |and Mill respectively. | | | Wau Post | 6 | 210 |Thence the track is much | | |intercepted by bushes in places to | | |Wau Post, crossing Khor Ganna ¾ | | |mile from the zeriba. --------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------

60.—KOSSINGA TO HOFRAT EL NAHAS.

BY LIEUTENANT-COLONEL SPARKES, MARCH, 1903.

--------------+--------------------+---------------------------------- | Miles. | Place. +-------------+------+ Description. |Intermediate.|Total.| --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- Kossinga | — | — | | | | _Khor Lutu_ | 3 | 3 |Cross Khor Lutu, now dry, but for | | |pools. Direction S.W. Going good. | | | | 8 | 11 |_Small pool_—reported dry in | | |March. | | | _River Ragaa_ | 5 | 16 |Good going all way to river, which | | |is here 100 to 150 yards broad, 15 | | |feet banks—now small stream 2 feet | | |deep. It later on joins River | | |Boru, and finally, after junction | | |with it, the Bahr El Arab. J. | | |Dandu, rocky hill about 300 feet | | |high, lies 2 or 3 miles to S. | | | _Ragaa_ | 10 | 26 |Chief town of Sultan Musa Hamed, | | |the Faroge chief, well situated on | | |rising ground. River Ragaa flows | | |at foot. Good going all way from | | |Kossinga over slightly undulating | | |ground, with occasional rocky | | |excrescences, not big enough to be | | |called hills, but big enough to | | |notice in this dead flat country. | | | _Membera_ | 7 | 33 |From Ragaa track lies W.N.W., and | | |is good. Scattered villages, | | |called Membera. Sheikhs Futu and | | |Adam. | | | _Khor Rakib El| 8 | 41 |Small well, always gives water, Gamal_ | | |now (17th Feb.) pool with ample | | |water, but drying up fast. | | | _Khor Ronda_ | 6½ | 47½ |Fair going through bush and scrub, | | |crossing two dry khors and passing | | |a pool with water 4 miles from | | |Rakib El Gamal. | | | _Khor Metemma_| 3 | 50½ |Always water. | | | _River Boru_ | 11 | 61½ |Good going through many Lulu trees | | |to river and village of Boru, | | |Sheikh Futer. About largest tree | | |yet seen in Bahr El Ghazal—some | | |sort of acacia—in centre of | | |village, near Sheikh’s house. | | |River is 1¼ mile from village, | | |very similar to Ragaa, and | | |formidable obstacle in rains. | | | | 11 | 72½ |Fair going, passing through two | | |villages to pool where there is | | |always water. Now marching almost | | |N. through very hilly country, | | |gravelly soil and track like a | | |switchback. Chain of tree-covered | | |hill on W., called Jebel I, and on | | |E. called Jebel Yarkar. | | | _Jebel I_ | 5½ | 78 |Pool, always water at foot of | | |Jebel I. | | | Bashum | 12 | 90 |Fair going over up and down | | |country, occasionally cut by | | |elephant tracks, to village of | | |Sheikh Bashum. People: Kreich and | | |Faroge, under Sultan Musa. This is | | |N. limit of Musa’s people. Jebel | | |Umbelanda lies 5 or 6 miles to W. | | | _Khor Dikki_ | 5 | 95 |Track lies through Umbelanda | | |range. Direction N.N.W. Always | | |water in Khor Dikki. | | | _Khor Monio_ | 6 | 101 |Always water. | | | _River | 6 | 107 |Always water. Nearly 100 yards Shaliko_ | | |across; shelving banks. Runs into | | |Bahr El Arab. Very pretty spot. | | | _Khor Dimkano_| 4 | 111 |Track now lies W. of N.W. Always | | |water at Dimkano, but “fly” very | | |bad indeed. | | | _River Siri_ | 9 | 120 |Sandy bed, 80 to 90 yards wide; | | |banks 10 to 12 feet. Water always | | |obtainable by scratching hole in | | |sand. Runs into Bahr El Arab. | | | _Khor Bapa_ | 5 | 125 |Rocky khor; always water in pools. | | | Jebel Paya | 6 | 131 |Jebel Paya lies to E. of track; | | |other hills on all sides. Good | | |going, but much up and down. | | | _River Rikki_ | 4 | 135 |Similar to Siri, but always open | | |water, and banks very steep. Track | | |now N. of N.W. | | | _Khor Vongo_ | 7 | 142 |Always water. | | | _Kafikingi_ | 8 | 150 |Village of Sultan Ibrahim Murad | | |(Kreich). 200 to 250 huts; | | |scattered, and somewhat | | |dilapidated. Small stream ½ mile | | |from village, always holds water | | |and fish. Last 15 miles about N.W. | | | _River Adda_ | 10 | 160 |Track now to N.N.E. Good going | | |through thick wood along main road | | |to Kalaka. River Adda 60 to 80 | | |yards wide, banks 10 to 12 feet; | | |stream running E., now but little | | |water. | | | | 11 | 171 |Follow Kalaka road for 11 miles, | | |along valley of Adda, then cross | | |river and strike slightly W. of | | |N., leaving all signs of a track, | | |as old Hofrat El Nahas road is | | |entirely obliterated, and going | | |bad and difficult. | | | _Khor Gugu_ | 2½ | 173½ |Across Adda plain to Khor Gugu, | | |where always water. | | | Jebel Teni | 7½ | 181 |An old well at foot of jebel, but | | |at present choked and useless. | | | Khor Unwolo | 8 | 189 |Dry khor. Track now runs N.N.W. | | | _Kafrmoya_ | 6 | 195 |Large pool now (28th Feb.); ample | | |water. Many rhino about here. | | | _River | 4 | 199 |Through sites of long abandoned Umbelacha_ | | |villages to River Umbelacha; (Bahr El | | |guides, &c., only know it by this Fertit) | | |name. River runs E., but little | | |water at present; but fine stream | | |when full, 80 to 100 yards broad, | | |10 to 12 feet banks; bed alternate | | |rock and sand. Seventy to 80 miles | | |to E., this river joins River | | |Adda, the two forming Bahr El | | |Arab. | | | Hofrat El | 1 | 200 |Copper mines of Hofrat El Nahas Nahas | | |lie 1 mile to S. of river, consist | | |of number of shallow pits covering | | |½ mile square. Whole country round | | |absolutely deserted, and no people | | |have lived here since first rising | | |of Mahdism, when Ibrahim Murad and | | |his people—the former | | |inhabitants—went to Kafikingi, | | |which is now nearest village. --------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------

61.—RAGAA TO DEIM ZUBEIR.

BY COLONEL SPARKES, C.M.G., MARCH, 1903.

[Sidenote: Roads.]

Roads everywhere fair, except between River Adda and Hofrat El Nahas, where no track at all, and in parts between Ragaa and Deim Zubeir which require clearing of undergrowth and bush. This is now being done.

[Sidenote: Game.]

Game is plentiful near rivers and khors still holding water. No elephants seen, but they must be very numerous in rains, from many tracks which cut up roads in parts.

[Sidenote: Trade goods.]

Cloth and clothing asked for everywhere. Hard cash taken at Kossinga and Ragaa.

[Sidenote: Water.]

In dry season ample water to be found at no greater distance apart than 21 miles.

[Sidenote: Rivers and khors.]

In rains the many rivers and khors would take a lot of time and trouble to cross, and a Berthon boat would be indispensable.

[Sidenote: Camps, &c.]

Fair camping grounds found almost everywhere and wood always.

[Sidenote: Fly.]

Fly is bad everywhere, and would be probably fatal to horses or camels. Strong healthy mules and donkeys seem to stand it, but weak, sickly and those with bad sores succumb.

62.—KOJALI TO TONJ.

BY LIEUTENANT-COLONEL SPARKES, JULY, 1901.

--------------+--------------------+---------------------------------- | Miles. | Place. +-------------+------+ Description. |Intermediate.|Total.| --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- Poste Arsenal | — | — |Cross from left to right bank of or Kojali | | |Jur River, which is 150 yards | | |wide, 12 feet deep at banks, and | | |20 feet deep in channel, current 4 | | |miles an hour; crossing a matter | | |of some difficulty, as have only a | | |small Berthon boat and a dug-out; | | |it takes some hours, but is | | |effected without casualties. | | | _Kana’s_ | 5½ | 5½ |The going on right bank much village | | |better than on left bank. There is | | |a good track, and grass as a rule | | |not more than waist high; on other | | |side it was frequently 6 feet or 8 | | |feet high. Village of Kana-Rewa, a | | |brother of Tembura’s, is well | | |built and well kept. Kana’s | | |“Mbanga” or private enclosure | | |surrounded by banana trees. Cross | | |two small khors en route. Village | | |consists of 40 to 50 scattered | | |huts. | | | Khor | 3 | 8½ |Our track now lies to N.E., and we | | |gradually leave Jur River. Khor is | | |12 feet wide and 3 feet deep. | | | | 2 | 10½ |Ravine with small khor at bottom. | | | Khor Sur | 7 | 17½ |Twenty feet wide and 5 feet deep, | | |runs into Jur. | | | _Khor Beilo_ | ½ | 18 |Small khor 2 feet deep. | | | | 8½ | 26½ |Marsh, but not bad crossing. | | | J. Hibi | 3 | 29½ |Rocky mass of sort of grey | | |granite, site of final battle | | |between Nyam Nyams and Bongos, | | |which lasted 6 days, when latter | | |were utterly defeated. | | | Khor Kumio | 1 | 30½ |Fifteen feet wide, 2 feet to 6 | | |feet deep. Village of Bongos, | | |slaves of Sheikh Kana, just beyond | | |khor. | | | Khor | 7 | 37½ |Small khor, 10 feet wide, 18 | | |inches deep. | | | _Ndoruma’s | 2 | 39½ |Village of Ndoruma Rewa, another village_ | | |brother of Tembura; it is quite | | |new, only having been built within | | |last few months. Very similar in | | |size, &c., to Kana’s village, and | | |is the extreme northern outpost of | | |the Nyam Nyams. | | | | 2½ | 42 |Marsh 100 yards wide, at present | | |only 6 feet deep; another marsh | | |200 yards wide, but not yet bad | | |crossing. | | | Village | 5½ | 47½ |Ndoruma’s old village, abandoned 2 | | |months ago, huts all still | | |standing and in good order. | | | Khor | 11 | 58½ |Small khor, dry in winter. | | | Khor | 2½ | 61 |Small khor, dry in winter. | | | Khor Wolo | 17 | 78 |Dry in winter. | | | _Khor | 3½ | 81½ |More a marsh than a khor, said to Kordabella_ | | |be never dry, much cut up by | | |elephant tracks, and have | | |considerable difficulty with | | |animals in crossing. | | | _Khor Gutong_ | 6½ | 88 |Said to have always water running | | |to N., and rather fancy this may | | |be River Mulmul under another | | |name. | | | _Khor Mungara_| 3 | 91 |Always contains water, more a | | |marsh than a khor, with muddy | | |holding bottom and cut up by | | |elephant tracks, 100 yards wide, | | |and have to carry loads across as | | |laden animals fall and stick in | | |mud. | | | _River Tonj_ | 15½ | 106½ |River plain here, some 3 miles | | |wide, follow left bank, trees up | | |to river edge on right bank. River | | |almost full, and about 40 yards | | |wide. | | | | 15½ | 122 |River here makes great bend to W. | | |and comes up to edge of trees, the | | |river plain now being on right | | |bank, but this is only for a short | | |distance, as a rule the plain is | | |on left bank. | | | _Khor_ | 4 | 126 |Deep khor running from W. to | | |river; cross by going 1½ miles to Tonj Post | 3 | 129 | N.W. --------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------

63—TONJ TO RUMBEK.

BY CAPTAIN E. H. ARMSTRONG, FEBRUARY, 1903.

--------------+--------------------+---------------------------------- | Miles. | Place. +-------------+------+ Description. |Intermediate.|Total.| --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- Tonj | — | — |Road from Tonj crosses river close | | |to, but N. of station, and | 3 | 3 |continues slightly N. of E to | | |forest 3 miles, and on N. along | 3 | 6 |edge of forest 3 miles more to | | |where river approaches close to | | |it. From there road E. and N.E. | | |through forest, passing elephant | | |swamp (dry by January) to village _Sheikh Senug_| 11 | 17 |of Sheikh Senug. Rakuba, two | | |wells, 20 feet N. of rakuba, | | |distance 11 miles. Road from there | | |past villages of Sheikh Bol and | | |through forest, direction E. to | | |_well in Khor Mahok_ under a | | |gemmeiza tree. | | | _Wag Abak_ | 21½ | 38½ |Village of Wag Abak, Sheikh Gehak. | | |No water in between, distance 21½ | | |miles. Water can be brought from | | |village Paag, N. of wood to spot | | |4½ miles W. of gemmeiza tree, if | | |word is sent beforehand. Road | | |continues S.E. across Khor Mahok, | | |wet in January, passing village of | | |Riang (another Sheikh Gehak), also | | |village of Rihan. | | | _Gochin_ | 7 | 45½ |Hamada, interpreter, to village of | | |Gochin, Sheikh Mabiur; two empty | | |forts on W. bank of river Gell, | | |distance 7 miles. On E. across | | |river, then N.E. through village | | |of Sheikh Markoj (Panchoi) to _Sheikh Jok | 6½ | 52 |village of Sheikh Jok Dau, 6½ Dau_ | | |miles. Pool of good water on S. of | | |village, and post and rest house | | |in village. Road continues across | | |village through forest, passing _Sheikh | 12 | 64 |corner of Khor Toj to village of Marnal_ | | |Sheikh Marnal; wells in village | | |and pool on E. side, 12 miles. | | |From there road S.E. along edge of | | |Khor Toj through Fanagai, Sheikh | | |Gran, distance 7 miles, and on 5 | | |miles more to village of Sheikh | | |Ateng, and 1 mile more to Khor _Khor Gulman_ | 13 | 77 |Gurman (or Gulman), where there is | | |a bridge. From there to Khor Khor Abeir | 9 | 86 |Abeir, 9 miles, and from Abeir to | | |Rumbek 9 miles more. | | | Rumbek | 9 | 95 | --------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------

64.—RUMBEK TO SHAMBE.

BY CAPTAIN E. H. ARMSTRONG, 11TH FEBRUARY, 1903.

NOTE.—Rivers Naam and Lau flow at about 4 miles an hour in flood, and about 3 miles an hour or less when flood is over. The Naam is about 10 feet deep in flood, the eastern bank of Lau 12 and western 10 feet. After rains both rivers fall to about 2 feet deep, and western branch of Lau is dry from March to May.

65.—RUMBEK TO DARAGO’S AND M’VOLO.

BY CAPTAIN P. WOOD, APRIL, 1904.

66.—M’VOLO TO KIRO (BAHR EL JEBEL).

BY COLONEL SPARKES, C.M.G., MARCH, 1901.

--------------+--------------------+---------------------------------- | Miles. | Place. +-------------+------+ Description. |Intermediate.|Total.| --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- M’volo | 3½ | — |Site of old Government station on | | |left bank, no sign of it left. New | | |station now occupied by Government | | |troops. This is a pretty spot. The | | |river, now a tiny stream of clear | | |water, falls over a mass of rocks | | |and winds through great boulders, | | |great rocky ridges line either | | |bank, and many deleib palms assist | | |in the attractiveness of scene. | | |Swarms of guinea fowl about here. | | | | | |Track leaves river and goes E. and | | |passes through country more bush | | |than wood, numerous small trees 6 | | |to 10 feet high, with light green | | |leaves, called umduti by locals. | | | _Modo Village_| 2 | 2 |Sheikh Umbo; village burnt by | | |Nyam-Nyam Sheikh Tembura less than | | |two weeks ago, when he raided | | |whole country. Track now to N. of | | |E. District Leizi ends and that of | | |Kremu begins. | | | _Kremu | 1½ | 3½ |One large and three small wells Village_ and | | |here, giving ample supply of fair District | | |water, said to be dry before rains | | |begin, but now in large well 4½ | | |feet of water and diameter of well | | |7 feet. Track from Kremu fairly | | |well marked, same sort of country, | | |few more lulu trees. Gentle slopes _Khor Degaga_ | 15 | 18½ |up and down to plains, swamps in | | |rains. Two khors which have now | | |ample water (19th February, 1901), | | |said to be dry in another month, | | |but a permanent pool called | | |Kulokho reported close by. | | | _Village_ | 1½ | 20 |Madi village, at present unnamed, (Bufi District| | |being built to replace one burnt begins) | | |by Nyam-Nyam raiders. | | | | | |Cross two khors which would cause | | |some trouble in rains. | | | _Balabbi_ | 4½ | 24½ |Madi village, Sheikh Wanga, in Village | | |Bufi district. | | | _River Rodi or| 4 | 28½ |A very fine river when full, now Yei_ | | |three or four separate streams, | | |beautifully clear water 6 to 8 | | |inches deep, running through sandy | | |bed. Banks 15 to 20 feet high, and | | |100 to 150 yards apart. River | | |valley as before described, only | | |about ½ mile wide here. Lion heard | | |at night, but game not very | | |plentiful. Best trade goods in | | |Gehri, Sofi, Leizi, Kremu and Bufi | | |districts; cloth and beads, then | | |brass, copper wire, or copper. | | | _Bufi_ | 2 | 30½ |A bad road for 2 miles after | | |crossing river, then old | | |Government station Bufi, on river | | |edge, right bank. Earthwork and | | |ditch about 100 yards square all | | |that remains. Track away from | | |river to S.E. through thick bush. | | | _Namusha | 2 | 32½ |Large dura patch and two fair- District_ | | |sized villages; now in Namusha | | |district. | | | | 3 | 35½ |Another dura patch and village. | | | _Wira_ | 3½ | 39 |Strike river again at clearing District, late| | |lately occupied by Belgians. Trees Belgian Post | | |grow to water’s edge on both banks | | |about here, a pretty spot. | | |Belgians are known to natives as | | |Tuktuk (Askari) and Kiro as | | |Simsim. No special name for late | | |Belgian post; it is in Wira | | |district. | | | _Dori Village_| 3½ | 42½ |Track lies E. of S., cutting off | | |bend of river, and indifferent | | |going over several dry khors. | | | _Fashitaura_ | 3 | 45½ |Still in Wira district, track been | | |bending W. of S. | | | _J. Yaira_, | 1½ | 47 |A mass of black rock about 100 beginning of | | |feet high and some 300 yards long, Tokuera | | |full of caves and used as hiding District | | |places for natives during raids, | | |is about ½ mile from river. Trees | | |still to water’s edge, and the | | |wide valleys of rivers further N. | | |seem to have disappeared. Cross | | |several dry khors. | | | | 2 | 49 |Many deleib palms near river. | | | _Village_ | 2 | 51 |Small village; track lying S.E. | | | | 1 | 52 |Through thick low scrub with no | | |trees for about 1½ miles. | | | | 3 | 55 |Cross dry khor and through mass of | | |black rocks which crop up now all | | |along track at intervals; country | | |much more up and down, now no | | |longer dead flat. | | | Village | 2 | 57 |Pass through more scrub. | | | Jebel Dubbo | 3 | 60 |Two high peaks of black rock | | |connected by ridge, track now to | | |S.W. | | | _Beri-Beri | 3 | 63 |Touch river again first time for Village_ | | |14 miles; village about ½ mile District | | |from river, now small stream Tokuera | | |through rocks, trees to edge both | | |sides. | | | _Amadi_ | 5½ | 68½ |Old Government station, earthwork | | |and ditch 200 yards square on | | |river bank, good situation, and | | |village Keini, Sheikh Niari-Paka, | | |about ¼ mile outside work and few | | |huts inside. Cross several dry | | |khors _en route_ to old station; | | |country pretty, many elephant | | |tracks. Best trade goods, Tokuera | | |district, cloth and beads. Leave | | |River Rodi, the track for Kiro | | |lies first to N.E., skirting round | | |N. side of Jebel Dubbo; going bad | | |until clear of outlying rocks, | | |then fair villages both on E. and | | |W. side of Jebel Dubbo, the former | | |lately burnt by Nyam-Nyams from | | |Makarakaland. Cross two khors | | |running from Jebel to river; many | | |such, now dry, khors with sandy | | |and well defined banks, lined with | | |trees run into River Rodi, a | | |feature entirely lacking in rivers | | |more to N. | | | Khor | 9 | 77½ |Large dry khor running N. and S.; | | |track still to N. and E. | | | _Mandia_ | 1 | 78½ |Sheikh Dia, large compact village | | |with quantity dura grown round it, | | |water in well, never dry. | | | _Numali | 6 | 84½ |Large village, quantity of dura Village_ | | |round; Sheikh Waga-Lanio, | | |intelligent man; ample water from | | |wells, never dry. Track still to | | |N. of E.; going good, generally | | |bush, few large trees. One mile to | | |E. after leaving Numali, then N. | | |of E. again, and village Murra, | | |Sheikh Gureh, more commonly called | | |Bilal. One small well ½ mile past | | |village, but gives ample water and | | |reported never dry. | | | | | |Track from here lies to S. a great | | |deal and zigzags a lot, but always | | |trending well S. of E. Fine going | | |through thick bush. | | | _Mudo_ | 10½ | 95 |Sheikh Nier Magura, one well | | |similar to that of Murra. | | | Khor | 3½ | 98½ |Large khor, now dry, running N. | | |and S. Track now about S.E. | | | Khor | 6 | 104½ |Another large dry khor running N. | | |and S., with sandy bed, track | | |still to S. of E. | | | Vura Village | 1 | 105½ |Sheikh Di-Aniara; now in Kederu | | |district, people still Madis. | | |Track from here lies to E. | | | Kederu | 3 | 108½ |Now dry, except for occasional District, | | |pools; sandy bed about 70 yards _River Tafari_| | |wide, banks 8 feet high, | | |apparently does not overflow. | | |Natives say water always | | |obtainable by scraping hole few | | |feet deep in sandy bed. Fine trees | | |line banks. Rhinoceros, elephant, | | |buffalo, and various antelopes | | |found near, also partridge and | | |guinea fowl, but latter very wild. | | | | | |From River Tafari track lies S. of | | |E., and about 5 miles from river | | |we cross to S. of 5° 30′ parallel | | |and proceed through wood, now open | | |and good easy going, now thick, | | |and bad going, cross a few dried | | |up swamps, and pass three villages | | |destroyed by fire. | | | | 25 | 133½ |Lulu trees appear again in | | |considerable numbers. | | | _Nyambara | 10 | 143½ |Sheikh Volo-Likah of Nyambara District, | | |tribe (the Yambara of Felkin and Metika Village| | |Junker); small newly opened well (small well)_ | | |here, giving very limited supply | | |of water, just sufficient for | | |half-pint per man (45 men), but | | |nothing for animals. Up to a few | | |days ago people had been drinking | | |from khors now dry. Between River | | |Tafari and here absolutely | | |uninhabited and at this time of | | |the year waterless. A month ago | | |ample water would be found in | | |birkas and khors. In Nyambara | | |district people now wretchedly | | |poor and miserable, and generally | | |bolted at our approach; huts few, | | |small and badly built. From here | | |track lies first to S.E., then to | | |E. (?) through thick bush. | | | Golela Village| 3½ | 147 |Sheikh Galenga-Lembu, fine looking | | |intelligent man; Nyambaras speak | | |quite a different language to | | |Madis, and appear a low caste of | | |people. | | | _Well (fair | 2½ | 149½ |Two and half miles from village, supply)_ | | |one well about 20 feet deep, from | | |which about fifteen gallons can be | | |got. Reported never to fail. | | | | | |Track slight N. of E., soil | | |getting sandy barren, much thorn | | |and scrub. | | | | 14 | 163½ |Jebel Lado visible about 25 miles | | |to S. of E. Track again slightly | | |to S. of E. and country still | | |barren and desolate. | | | | 9½ | 173 |An abandoned Belgian post. | | | _Small well_ | ½ | 173½ |Very limited supply of water, | | |about two gallons obtainable per | | |hour with much difficulty. | | | Khor | 22 | 195½ |Large khor comes in from Bahr El | | |Jebel. | | | | | |Track last 20 miles about E. and | | |up khor country still a | | |wilderness. | | | _Kiro, Belgian| 3 | 198½ |To N.E. or khor on river edge. A Post_ | | |now dry khor bounds post to N. | | |Post consists of extensive | | |collection of brick built houses | | |and huts, and has accommodation | | |for several hundred men. | | |Surrounded by wooden stockade. | | | Anglo-Egyptian| 3 | 201½ |To N. of Belgian Post on water’s Post | | |edge, stands well above river and | | |surrounded by trees. This post was | | |abandoned in May, 1901. --------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------

N.B.—Distances probably slightly exaggerated, specially from Amadi, as far from there we generally marched by night on account of scarcity of water.

There is only one river worth calling so, between Amadi and the Nile, that is River Tafari, though several dry beds of khors were crossed, which may be considerable streams in rains. River Tafari is said to run into Nile S. of Shambe.

67.—RUMBEK ACROSS NAAM TO AWODI.

BY CAPTAIN E. H. ARMSTRONG, FEBRUARY, 1903.

68.—RUMBEK TO MANGI’S VILLAGE.

BY COL.-SERGEANT BOARDMAN, MARCH, 1903.

--------------+--------------------+---------------------------------- | Miles. | Place. +-------------+------+ Description. |Intermediate.|Total.| --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- Rumbek | — | — |Marched from Rumbek on 11th | | |February, through Runga (Jurs) _Khor Abeir_ | 7 | 7 |S.W., then W.S.W. to wells, across | | |Khor Abeir. Pretty spot under high | | |trees, several large mongoose at | | |well. Halted ½ mile further on, | | |country open and park-like. | | |General direction S.W., country | | |open forest and waste ground, then | | |up steep hill into forest. Halted | | |for ten minutes at well. | | | _Sheikh | 11 | 18 |On to Sheikh Kali’s, a neat Kali’s_ | | |village, 13 houses round a tree, | | |Gemmeiza el Beit. Bamboo growing | | |all around. Water obtained from | | |wells. Road continues S.W. and S. | | |for one hour, and S.E. for half an | | |hour, ground sloping S. across | | |successive belts of bamboo, open | | |ground, and somewhat open forest; | | |then S. and S.W. over ridge to | | |village of Sheikh Gol, Then S.W. 1 | | |mile across low ground. At 8 | | |miles, road to Chums, S.W. Road | | |continues S. along deleib valley | | |for about 11 miles—many deleib | | |palms, open forest, some large _Khor Gulma_ | 13 | 31 |trees—across two small khors. Past | | |burnt zeriba, Gol; merchant named | | |Kayali on river, after 10 miles. | | |Ground in deleib plain slopes W. | | |to Khor Gulma. Moved on S. and | | |S.E., skirting Khor Gulma, then Sheikh Ding | 1 | 32 |smaller khor on W. of it, and (Wakil of Gol)| | |halted at Sheikh Ding. Then S.W. 2 | | |miles through thin forest and | | |village, and on slightly S. to _Sheikh Ri_ | 5 | 37 |village of Sheikh Ri; halted just | | |beyond in forest. Water about a | | |mile N.E. From here marched S. | | |through forest, villages, and | | |across three khors; after one hour Sheikh Marain | 4½ | 41½ |dura of Sheikh Marain (Wakil of | | |Ri), and his village (from here | | |village of Moinyeng about 20 miles | | |N.E.). At first ground sloping to | | |E., but after village crossed low | | |ridge. | | | | | |Continued S. 1 mile, then W. and | | |S.W. along low ground for one and | | |a half hours, then S. and S.E. for | | |another one and a half hours; road | | |continues S. for 2½ miles more, | | |crossing low ground. Halted E. of | | |_water_. In three places on march | | |low ground must be marshy in | | |rains. Continued E. for 2 miles, | | |then E. and N.E. for 1 mile along | | |N. of khor, ground sloping from S. | | |to N. through forest and village, | | |then E. for 1 mile to dura of _Sheikh | 13½ | 55 |Sheikh Dogbei; water found on N. Dogbei_ | | |near road, then S.E. to more dura | | |and few houses, on through village | | |S. to wells; halted under tree on | | |rising ground. Then S.W. for 1 | | |mile along edge of forest, and W. | | |for 1½ miles, round N. of kopje, | | |then S. across low ground; here | | |road continues S, W. and W. for 1½ | | |miles round rocky hills, along | | |side of forest, and close to (W. _Sheikh Kolli_| 5 | 60 |of) another khor, then strikes S., (deserted | | |across khor to wells, called village) | | |village of Sheikh Kolli, but | | |village deserted long ago. | | |Indifferent water, but near the | | |surface, and frequented by game. | | | | | |Continued S.W. for 1 mile, and 2 | | |miles W. and S.W., over high open | | |ground at first, then to left | | |through forest, on S.W. for ½ | | |mile, passing rocky hill, right- | | |handed, then W. for 1 mile, | | |passing other rocky hills, left- | | |handed, which overlook valley to | | |W., S. and E., the highest is 80 | | |to 100 feet above ridge itself; | | |high ground N., and on R. slopes | | |in wooded ridges to W. and sheer _Village of | 5 | 65 |S. Village of Abui N. and W., Sheikh Abui_ | | |raided by Nyam Nyams. Halted at | | |tobacco plantation. Water in holes | | |in rocks, plentiful and excellent. | | |From rocky ridge excellent view to | | |W., showing successive banks of | | |trees running S.E. to N.W., then | | |S. and N.,. representing lines of | | |khors and rivers, or their | | |tributaries. Then back to two | | |tukls of Sheikh Abui, and | | |continued W. and S.W., passing | | |through belt of fine trees on to | | |village (Khartan) and across khor. | | |From here S. and S.E., passing a | | |patch of flat rocks through | | |forest, then S. and S.W., up | | |rising ground, through open | | |forest, and S.W. for 1 mile; W. | | |for 1 mile, and then S.W. again. | | |Continued W. and S.W.,. over high | | |ground, at first open forest, then | | |clump of fine trees, gradually to | | |S., scrubby forest and much burnt. _R. Roa_ or | 13 | 78 |Then S. down to dry khor with high _Gell_ | | |grass, which apparently runs W. | | |into River Roa or Gell. Water in | | |pools to E. and W. | | | | | |Crossed khor S. and then S.W. | | |After 2 miles of burnt and open | | |forest, crossed khor running S.E. | | |and N.W, and after 4 miles came to | | |belt of high trees, some of the | | |large leaf kind, here the ground | | |becomes low and covered with high | | |grass on R. Guide took us round N. | | |side of it, and brought us to | | |river more than two hours earlier | | |than was expected. Here we found | | |there was no road. Guide had taken | | |wrong road, had to find way back, | | |S.E. and E., through high grass, | | |then along path through forest to | | |S., and then halted for | | |information. Could get none, went | | |on without hamla and found spot by | 5 | 83 |river and sent for hamla. | | | | | |Continued S.W. and then S., along | | |edge of forest; on the left hand | | |river several times came close, | | |rocky banks and pretty, plain on | | |R. varying in breadth, according | | |to whether spurs of high ground | | |and forest run out into it, or | | |whether joined by flat grassy | | |khors; crossed several small ones | | |on river bank, and came to a _pool | | |in khor_; halted for 15 minutes. | | |Continued across similar ridge of | | |forest burnt in places, then came | | |to another big pond in khor; | | |direction of march still S. | | | | | |Moved along E. of pond and found | | |the khor which runs from E. to W.; | | |deep channel of water with broken | | |muddy banks, crossed it a little | | |higher up by filling in with grass | | |and branches; mules and all | | |crossed easily. From there road | 11 | 94 |slightly W. of S., across similar | | |ridges, crossing one broad dry | | |khor, _halted on ridge_ 300 _yards | | |from river_; crossed Khor-el-Said | | |and continued across spur of hill | | |covered with burnt forest for 3 | | |miles; direction S. and slightly | | |W. of S., then came on khor | | |running S. and S.E.; turned left | | |along it and came on bend of | | |river; rocky bed with cataract, | | |rocks cut into long channels by | 5 | 99 |flow of water, banks steep, high | | |grass on far side. Had to unload | | |animals and pass over everything | | |by hand, river nearly bridged by | | |rocks, but very uneven. Marched on | | |again, going W., through high | | |grass till meeting track after ½ | | |mile, then S. along side of ridge | | |with spurs running down to river, | | |sometimes small open plain near | | |river. After another mile passed | | |over old zeriba of Abu Samat (1½ | | |miles after crossing river). On in | | |same direction, and struck river | 5 | 104 |again near khor, pretty spot; then | | |on across open low ground to | | |another spur on which we halted. | | |River runs S.E. from here. | | |Continued S.W.W. into dense | | |forest, partly burnt, no track; | | |crossed spurs of two ridges with | | |small sandy khors in valleys. | | | | | |Then marched S.W. along a ridge | | |for one hour and a quarter; ground | | |here slopes down E., with thick | | |belt of tress on a hill about 3 | | |miles E., then over deep sandy | | |khor up rocky hill. Continued S. | | |up steep hill, view all round; | | |high ridges covered with large | | |trees; after 1 mile went down to | | |valley, crossed deep rocky khor, | | |little water in pool. Khor going | | |W. to N.E. Continuing S., crossed | | |valley and camped on high | 8½ | 112½ |tableland; _water in khor below_. | | | | | |Marched again S., and after | | |quarter of an hour reached a deep | | |narrow khor; halted and cut away | | |banks to cross animals; water in | | |pool to E. (left). Continued S., | | |crossed wide grassy khor after 1 | | |mile going W. to E., then one hour | | |over high rocky ground with tall | | |grass; thin forest; crossed small | | |khor (W. to E.), then low ground | | |with tall grass and thick shrubs. | | |Striking old track of Nyam Nyams, | | |very indistinct, marched S. of W. | | |for 1 mile over rising ground and | | |through thick forest, then S.W., | | |passing end of deep gorge which | | |runs E.; lost track and marched | | |S.W. over rocky ridge, crossed two | | |small sandy khors about 50 yards | | |apart, running parallel S.W. to | | |N.E. Continued S.W.S., crossed | | |gorge after 1 mile, then fairly | | |level ground, rocky. Again struck | | |track and followed it; ground | | |drops to the E. Continued S.W., | | |and after half hour crossed a wide | | |khor, tall grass, running W. to E. | | |Two mountains, Angaliri, in Bongo | | |country, can be seen about 40 | | |miles E. of here. | | | | | |Continued S.W. along rocky ridge, | | |went down to Khor Mugei, water | | |running N.E. to S.W. This khor is | | |about 12 yards wide with tall | | |grassy plain each side, and | | |apparently drains hills over which | | |I passed during the day and runs | | |into River Leizi. Thick forest Mount Yara, | 16½ | 129 |nearly the whole way. Mount Yara, _Khor Mugei_ | | |a large hump-shaped mountain, | | |covered with trees, about 2 miles | | |across khor S.W.W. Halted here for | | |the night. Marched in the morning | | |S., along E. side of khor, for | | |half hour through tall grass and | | |few bushes, then S.S.E. for half | | |hour, ridges to left (E.). After 4 | | |miles turned W. of S. over ridge, | | |thickly covered with large trees, | | |undergrowth burnt, 5½ miles; then | | |down to valley, very open ground | | |covered with burnt grass and large | | |ant hills, with dry khor in | | |centre; valley about 1½ miles | | |wide, several large trees. Mts. | | |Angaliri can be seen from here | | |N.E. Carriers say they are near | | |(60 miles N.E. of) Hmadi. | | |Continuing S. struck path going | | |S.W., followed it along valley, | | |crossed khor, dry, and marching _River Leizi, | 11 | 140 |through tall grass came to River Sheikh Sango_ | | |Leizi, narrow, high banks, | | |overhung by trees, dry at ford; | | |crossed and entered village of | | |Sheikh Sango (slaves of Nyam | | |Nyams), wakil of Sheikh Agadamba, | | |who is under Sultan Mangi. Here | | |natives bolted; village stands on | | |rise and fairly open ground. Tribe | | |Homr from Babikr. | | | | | |Marched again and crossed khor, | | |then over slight rise; burnt | | |forest of young trees. Met party _Sheikh | 10½ | 150½ |from Sheikh Agadamba; crossed khor Agadamba_ | | |running W. to E., little water, | | |ground drops to E., large ridge in | | |distance S. of E., then over | | |slight rise, small forest, and | | |crossed small khor (W. to E.); | | |then over spur of hill and came to | | |wells, open ground with young lulu | | |trees. Continued S.S.W. over steep | | |hill covered with thick forest | | |into valley, fairly open; crossed | | |khor, little water, over small | | |rise, another small khor (W. to | | |E.), then through dense forest S., | | |crossing rocky khor and, turning | | |E., entered village of Sheikh | | |Agadamba, tribe Geate, from near | | |Yambio, slaves of Mangi (son of | | |Yambio); passed through village | | |and camped on Khor Reishinda | | |beyond, 10½ miles, running S.W. to | | |N.E. into River Leizi (natives | | |inform me that River Leizi runs | | |into River Merridi (Gell or Roa.)) | | |Sheikh Bangi, son of Mangi, from | | |Kawa village Reisha, two days S.E. | | |from here, tribe Abakas, came in | | |here and does not seem very | | |willing to give information. | | |Continued W. through village, | | |houses scattered in the thick of | | |forest, and one house cannot be | | |seen from another. | | | | | |Turning S. crossed Khor Reishinda | | |(S.W. to N.E.), then over rise, | | |young forest, dense undergrowth, | | |slopes W. towards khor; ridges in | | |distance (W.). Forest thickens as | | |we advance, several small open | | |spaces. Continuing S.W., passed | | |old village of Sheikh Agadamba, | | |M’bagi; met party sent from Mangi; | | |reached Khor M’bagi, water running | | |from W. and bends S.E. Mount | | |M’bagi 3 miles E. from here, cone- | | |shaped and rocky mountain, few | | |trees, about 100-150 feet above | | |ridge. Continuing S., passed foot | | |W. of Mt. Umbumbamba, oval-shaped | | |and few large trees on crest, | | |about 150 feet high; then over | | |ridge W. of S. past dura fields, | | |crossed rocky (granite) ridge W. | | |of E. named Parkpe, and halted on _B’bonga Khor | 11 | 161½ |outskirts of village B’bonga near Zaza_ | | |Khor Zaza, rocky khor running N.E. | | |to S.W. into River Ibba, little | | |water in rocky pools; inhabitants | | |of village recently moved E.; | | |ridges of trees to E. and W. | | | | | |Continued S. and crossed Khor | | |Zaza, on to ridge, thick forest | | |continuing W. of S.; after half | | |hour ground slopes E. to khor | | |about 200 yards wide, thick weeds. | | |Path runs parallel with khor, high | | |ridges the far side(E.). Continued | | |S.W. over high rocky ridge down to | | |bend of River Ibba, 40 yards wide | | |here, sandy bottom, winding in _River Ibba_ | 4 | 165½ |S.S.W. direction. | | | | | |Marched S.W. over ridge and came | | |upon river again, after crossing | | |open ground in valley. River here | | |bends N.W.W., banks very steep, | | |about 3 feet deep, and 12 yards | | |wide; a swing bridge crosses river | | |here from N. bank to a tree on S. | | |bank. Unloaded and cut away banks | | |to cross, as bridge does not | | |appear very secure. Crossed and | | |camped on S. side in hollow open | | |plain, with cliffs about 40 feet | | |high running parallel with and | | |about 300 yards from river. Tall | | |grass which I burnt before | | |camping. Climbed cliff and | | |obtained following view:—_i.e._, | | |Mts. M’bagi and Umbumbamba stand | | |out very clearly N.E., with ridges | | |of trees running W. to E. and N. | | |to S. River winds towards N.W., | | |with grassy plain on either bank, | | |skirted on N. bank by forest, S. | | |bank by cliff and forest. View | | |S.E. obstructed by trees. | | | | | |Marched on E. along foot of cliff | | |for 1 mile, then unloaded and | | |climbed cliffs. Continued S.W. | | |over ridge, young forest; after 15 | | |minutes an old deserted village of | | |Sheikh Agadamba. Path to Yango | | |(E.) from here; for half an hour | | |through village, then down to Khor | | |Bendawari, very marshy, about 200 | | |yards wide, tall weeds; then along | | |edge of khor S.S.W. for half hour, | | |ground rising on far side of khor | | |(E.). Khor then bends S.W., and | | |path turns S. across it and enters | | |forest of large trees, lulu type, | | |undergrowth burnt; marched through | | |forest S.W., several open spaces; | | |then through thin forest and down | | |to W. over fairly open ground, and _Khor | 7½ | 173 |crossed Khor Mungongo and camped Mungongo, | | |on far side at 8.45 a.m. near Sheikh Tum_ | | |village of Sheikh Tum, Wakil of | | |Mangi tribe Agbea. Went on alone | | |to village named after Sheikh, | | |found very little water in well, | | |houses scattered and very thickly | | |populated, so decided to camp at | | |khor and await messenger. Sheikh | | |Zumio, son of Mangi, village | | |Mazura between Khors Korsi and | | |Mukongo, near village (deserted) | | |Penio—tribes Baminda and | | |Abunangi—came in; his district | | |runs from River Ibba, below Penio, | | |and W. along Benza’s district; | | |seems very intelligent, and says | | |he is anxious to be friendly to | | |government. | | | | | |Marched S.W. up slope of hill, | | |then E. round E. side of Mts. | | |Bandilia, high rocky mountains | | |covered with short grass, then | | |down W. of S. and crossed Khor | | |Wure Mangonga; this khor flows | | |into Khor Yur; fairly open ground | | |at first through village, then | | |young burnt forest. Continuing | | |S.W. crossed Khor Tozo, open | | |ground, marshy, then over ridge, | | |bushy country; ground slopes E. to | | |plain, with thick belt of trees on | | |ridge in distance (N. to S.). | | | | | |Going S. over rising ground, | | |passed Khor Mapeko with village | | |Byuvo, Headman named Zaniwe, on N. | | |bank. Continuing S. over rise, | | |crossed Khor Magone, then thin | | |trees for ten minutes, then _Village | 8 | 181 |through telibun fields to village Umbeyur_ | | |of Umbeyur, Headman Bgumbo. A good | | |many banana plants here, and | | |several patches of date palms _en | | |route_. Camped in village. Tribes | | |Bagmonda and Abondu, slaves of | | |Mangi. | | | | | |Marched on S. through village, | | |over rising ground fairly open, | | |drops E. and rises to forest. | | |After half hour crossed small Khor | | |Wureyim. N. of this khor all Nyam | | |Nyams tribes are called Abakas, | | |also to E. and S.E. of here. | | |Continuing S.S.W., passed deserted | | |village of Abubunda. | | | | | |Turning S., path runs parallel | | |with Khor Yur—tribes S. of Khor | | |Yur Abowis—which bends sharply to | | |W. Crossed and continued S. over | | |rise, bushy, passed old deserted | | |village of Badigo. Then very | | |marshy ground, crossing Khor | | |Umbondingani, continues marshy for | | |some distance E., with large pools | | |of water. Going S. over marsh, | | |crossed Khor Mungani, ground then | | |rises, valley to W., far bank Harimat of | 7 | 188 |dotted with houses; harimat of Mangi | | |Mangi. Then passing few houses, | | |then E., S.E., and S. through thin | | |forest, houses on either side. | | |Ground drops W. Bananas plentiful | | |_en route_. Continuing S.S.E. over | | |rise, through thin forest down | | |steep incline; crossed Khor | | |Mabondi, dry at present, but about | | |10 feet deep during rains, and 100 | | |yards wide, it ends about 1½ miles | | |to E.; then up incline on far | | |side; passed few tukls, through | | |thin forest, young trees. Progress | | |slow, having to cut road for | | |transport, down slope and crossed | | |Khor Mufeu, splendid large pool of | | |water, excellent quality, houses | | |close by. Then S. for five minutes | | |and crossed bend of Khor Mufeu, | | |over rise through thick forest, | | |young trees; then S.E., S., and | | |S.W., through thick belt of trees, | | |so thick that sun did not | | |penetrate, and was in semi _Khor | 5 | 193 |darkness, down to Khor Masagissa Masagissa_ | | |(runs N.W. to Mufeu), and halted | | |near pool of water. Very open | | |ground near khor to E. and W. Cut | | |path through belt of trees for | | |hamla, &c. Trees of the lulu type | | |the whole way. Crossed khor, very | | |marshy ground for ½ mile beyond, | | |then S.W. over rise, ground drops | | |E., with thick forest in distance | | |on high ground; passed old village | | |of Abiama, Sheikh Leguar, this has | | |been a large compact village, some | | |time deserted; banana, manyok, | | |cloth, and cotton plants growing | | |in wild confusion. | | | | | |Khor Makatapu runs parallel with | | |and to E. of path bending W., path | | |crossing it near batch of tukls of | | |Mangi. | | | | | |Continuing S.S.W. through thin | | |forest, trees close on path; cut | | |way for hamla, reach more tukls _Mangi’s | 4 | 197 |(deserted); camped beyond at pools Village_ | | |of water, on open ground. Progress | | |slow owing to thickness of trees | | |on path. A large number of date | | |palms in Khor Makatapu, and acacia | | |all along banks. --------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------

[Footnote 27: This does not apply now (1904).]