Chapter 13 of 14 · 41949 words · ~210 min read

CHAPTER VIII.

(KORDOFAN).

* * * * *

69.—SHEIKH SADIK TO HOMRA.

There is a good broad track the whole way. Good grazing, but indifferent shade.

70.—EL DUEIM TO HOMRA.

This is portion of the main route from El Dueim to El Obeid. There is a well defined track throughout.

71.—HOMRA TO EL OBEID _viâ_ BARA.

(_Corrected to January_, 1904.)

Throughout this route there is plenty of grazing and firewood. Water is, however, apt to give out at Homra and Shegeila if more than 300 camels are watered in one day as may happen at times, but the wells quickly refill. Wide track the whole way.

72.—EL DUEIM TO EL OBEID, _viâ_ HASHABA.

BY CAPTAIN W. LLOYD, SCOT. RIFLES (MARCH, 1900), AND MR. R. E. MORE (1903).

This is the shortest route between the river and El Obeid. There is good grazing throughout, though shade is sometimes wanting. After Hashaba, there are two routes to Um Sedeira, one _viâ_ Um Dam, the other _viâ_ Abu Areish. The former is the better, as there is plenty of water at Um Dam.

The following is an alternative route. There is, however, less water, and the road is much less frequented.

73.—GEDID TO EL DUEIM, _viâ_ UM DEISIS.

BY CAPTAIN W. LLOYD, THE SCOTTISH RIFLES, FEBRUARY, 1901, AND COLONEL THE HON. M. G. TALBOT, R.E., DECEMBER, 1901.

The whole of this road is over black cotton soil, and is occasionally impassable during the rains, at which time tracks east and west leading from one patch of cultivation to another along the red sandy ridges are more generally used. There is practically no bush near the road and very little shade.

74.—SHAT WELLS TO EL OBEID, _viâ_ J. KON.[28]

AS FAR AS ZEREIGA, BY COLONEL THE HON. M. G. TALBOT, R.E., DECEMBER, 1901; REMAINDER BY CAPTAIN W. LLOYD, THE SCOTTISH RIFLES, MARCH, 1901.

75.—SHAWAL TO GEDID _viâ_ FACHI SHOYA AND EL ALOB, THENCE _viâ_ DAR EL AHAMDA TO TAGALE.

BY CAPTAIN H. H. S. MORANT, THE DURHAM L.I., 1901, FROM PERSONAL OBSERVATION AS FAR AS DAR EL AHAMDA, REMAINDER FROM NATIVE SOURCES (FEBRUARY, 1901).

76.—GOZ ABU GUMA TO DAR EL AHAMDA.

BY CAPTAIN H. H. S. MORANT, MARCH, 1901.

77.—GOZ ABU GUMA TO EL OBEID, _viâ_ SHERKEILA AND RAHAD.

FROM A REPORT BY CAPTAIN C. H. LEVESON, 18TH HUSSARS, NOVEMBER, 1903.

78.—GEDID TO EL RAHAD _viâ_ AGEILA.

BY CAPTAIN W. LLOYD, DECEMBER, 1901.

This road is very swampy in the rains.

--------------+--------------------+---------------------------------- | Miles. | Place. +-------------+------+ Description. |Intermediate.|Total.| --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- _Gedid_ | — | — |Two good wells. Many Gimma | | |villages near. They are not | | |occupied during the rains, as | | |there is little cultivation near. | | |Good shade. Track over cotton | | |soil, thick bush. | | | Abu Rukba | 17 | 17 |Some old wells. The tomb of the | | |Khalifa’s father is on a hill a | | |little to the N. of the road. | | |There are a great many tracks | | |here. Local guide necessary. | | | _Um Afgheim_ | 18 | 35 |Pool and one well. Track now leads | | |over many sandy ridges. Between | | |the ridges black cotton soil. Bush | | |thick in places. | | | _Ageila_ | 14 | 49 |Several wells (14) with good | | |supply of water. The village of | | |Sheikh Yasin Yusef head Sheikh of | | |the Gowamas is a mile N. of wells. | | |Good shade. Water stands here in | | |rains and mosquitoes are very bad. | | |(There is a road from here to | | |Sherkeila, 12 miles). There is now | | |less black soil, and the bush | | |becomes less thick. | | | _Um Ruaba_ | 24 | 73 |A large fula with wells. The | | |latter are very bad. Much trouble | | |in watering ten camels. Good | | |shade. The village is 1½ miles to | | |the N. | | | Track to | 12 | 85 |[To Shamagatta 12 miles, Taiara 30 Shamagatta and| | |miles]. Taiara | | | | | |Country becomes undulating, sandy | | |ridges, black soil between. | | | _El Eilafun_ | 10 | 95 |A small place with one well, but | | |little water. | | | Um Sereiha | 1 | 96 |Small village, water from El | | |Eilafun. These two villages were | | |once large places, now very poor. | | |Good track. | | | _El Rahad_ | 22 | 118 |Several large villages, much | | |cultivation and small suk. Lake | | |now full. | | | | | |N.B.—Lake was dry in autumn 1902. | | |When dry, wells are dug in bed of | | |the lake. --------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------

79.—KAKA TO OPPOSITE JEBELEIN, BY LEFT BANK.

BY CAPTAIN H. H. WILSON, MARCH TO APRIL, 1903.

NOTE.—The information _re_ the track from Renk to the Jebelein is from a Report by El M. A. Said Eff. Nur El Din, Police Officer, Renk.

80.—OMDURMAN TO EL SAFIA WELLS.

BY MAJOR N. M. SMYTH BEY, V.C., QUEEN’S BAYS, NOVEMBER AND DECEMBER, 1901.

Most of country between Omdurman and El Safia is so barren that the grazing grounds are very limited in area, and the population is so sparse that beaten tracks are only to be found in the vicinity of the watering places.

Most of the country is scattered with low samr bush, which, not being in leaf owing to the scarcity of rain this year, affords little shade. Dead trees afford an abundant supply of fuel. Many wells get partly filled up with drift sand, or with mud brought down by the infiltration of water, which may be quickly cleaned out. The supply at all wells is dependent on the amount of rainfall.

N.B.—As there are no well-defined tracks, and the distances have been measured off the map, they are probably all too short.—H. H. S. M.

81.—DEBBA TO EL OBEID, _viâ_ WABRI, ELAI, SAFIA AND KAGMAR.

BY MR. JAMES CURRIE, APRIL, 1903.

The route from Debba to El Obeid is little used, even during the kharif when water is comparatively plentiful. At that season a few merchants carry dates to El Obeid, perhaps carrying back gum in exchange. The portion of the route from Debba to Safia is subject to variations according to the whim of the guide employed, as well as the season of the year. Some prefer the route Um Belila—El Amri—Hobagi—Haraza without going to Safia, whilst others during the dry season travel _viâ_ Wabri, Inderab, Gumr, Gambar, Habisa, Bagbag, and Kagmar.

The track described below was plainly marked throughout, but, owing to scarcity of water, would be difficult, at any rate during the driest season, for a party of over twenty-five camels. Shade and firewood are plentiful throughout.

In the following report the only places where there was any water on the road are mentioned.

--------------+--------------------+---------------------------------- | Miles. | Place. +-------------+------+ Description. |Intermediate.|Total.| --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- Debba | — | — |Left Debba at 6 p.m.; country | | |desert with a good deal of mimosa; Bir Kufra (1) | 11 | 11 |went about 11 miles and stopped at | | |Bir Kufra, no water but guides | | |stated it existed not far from | | |surface. | | | Bir Kufra (2) | 10 | 21 |Continued due S. at 6 a.m.; mimosa | | |ceased, softish sand and sand | | |hills, stopped at 10 a.m., at | | |another old well, Bir Kufra (2), | | |but guides state water non- | | |existent at any depth. Resumed at | | |4 p.m. and entered big khor | | |running N., Bir Gelud Abid. Many | | |trees and dry grass. Off at 6 a.m. | | |Entered Khor Magakha and went on | | |for 4 hours; arrived at Bir Abu | | |Sayal, three old water holes, no | | |water (April, 1903), stopped there | | |at 10 a.m.; resumed at 4 p.m., | | |passing on E. of path Bir Gelud, | | |another old empty water hole. J. | | |Abu Heglig here appears on E. of | | |path. Stopped at 8.30 p.m. Off at | | |4.30 a.m.; arrived at Wabri 9.30 _Wabri_ | 53 | 74 |a.m. Country for 4 or 5 miles | | |before Wabri very stony and | | |barren; three-stone-lined wells | | |and abundance of water and | | |grazing. A certain number of | | |Hawawir Arabs watering their | | |flocks, and a few camels. | | | _Bir Kernak_ | 13 | 87 |Off at 5.10 a.m. for Bir Kernak. | | |This well is a bit E. of direct | | |road to Elai. Arrived at 10.10 | | |a.m. Two stone-lined wells about | | |12 feet deep with abundance of | | |water. | | | _Hassanai_ | 10 | 97 |Off at 4.30 p.m. in a south- | | |westerly direction; rode for 3½ | | |hours up Wadi Kernak and arrived | | |at Hassanai, where there are a few | | |Arab families. There is a hofra | | |here, where a little water is to | | |be found, but all camels are | | |watered at Elai or Kernak. | | | _Elai_ | 13 | 110 |Left Hassanai 5.30 a.m. and rode | | |up Wadi Hassanai, crossed over | | |rocky pass and arrived at Elai at | | |10.10 a.m. Two stone-lined wells | | |(several disused ones) about 12 | | |feet deep, but contain little | | |water and take 5 hours to fill, | | |about 4 feet in diameter, and want | | |cleaning out very badly. | | | | | |Stayed at Elai during morning. A | | |long business watering my camels. | | |Left at 2.30 p.m. for Safia, went | | |on till 7 p.m. Three small hills | | |to E. of track chief land-mark. | | |Gazelle here very numerous. | | | Khor Hobagi | — | — |Off at 2.30 a.m., halted at 8.30 | | |a.m. W. of J. Mutmir. Went on 4 | | |hours in evening due S. Off at | | |5.30 a.m., entered Khor Hobagi | | |about 7 a.m. through a very rough | | |agaba. About 9 a.m. passed a hofra | | |which contains water during rains. | | |This is the so-called well of | | |Hobagi; halted 10.15 a.m. | | | | | |Country very much dried up and | | |very little grazing. Went on in | | |afternoon from 3 p.m. till 8.30 | | |p.m. | | | _Safia_ | 85 | 195 |Off at 2 a.m.; reached Safia at 12 | | |noon. Abundant supply of water | | |from many wells. Numerous ril or | | |addra gazelle, also tracks of wild | | |sheep. Country rocky, much shut in | | |and heat excessive. Much the | | |hardest part of journey. | | | | | |Stayed at Safia all day, 30 to 40 | | |wells, but not a great deal of | | |water in each. Water about 20 feet | | |from surface. Many Kababish Arabs | | |and a considerable number of | | |camels, cattle and sheep; gazelle | | |very numerous. | | | | | |Off at 5.30 p.m. for Kagmar, | | |_viâ_, Haraza hills, where I was | | |told there was water; went S.E. | | |and stopped for night at 7.30 p.m. | | | J. Haraza | — | — |Off at 4.30 a.m. and arrived at J. | | |Haraza at 8.30 a.m. Road very bad. | | |To get to these hills one | | |digresses some 15 miles from | | |direct road to Kagmar, and strikes | | |the range of hills about the | | |middle. There are two wells, but | | |one, Bir Shungul, is high up among | | |the hills and is reached by a very _Bir Sani_ | — | — |rough track. The second is Bir | | |Sani, 150 feet deep. I think the | | |digression to these wells was a | | |mistake, and would recommend the | | |direct road.[29] | | | | | |This range of hills is inhabited | | |by Nubas, of whom there are said | | |to be some 250. There is certain | | |amount of cultivation. | | | | | |Travelled 5.7 in the evening. | | | | | |Travelled towards Kagmar all day, | | |passing J. Hadid on W. of path, | | |and towards evening catching sight | | |of J. Atshan on the E. | | | _Kagmar_ | 81 | 276 |Arrived at Kagmar in the evening, | | |having passed on E. of track J. | | |Atshan and J. Royan. | | | | | |Water plentiful from here to El | | |Obeid, _vide_ Routes 71 and 83. | | | _Bara_ | 48 | 324 | | | | _El Obeid_ | 38 | 362 | --------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------

82.—SHEGEIG TO EL SHOWA, _viâ_ KAGMAR.

BY CAPTAIN W. LLOYD, NOVEMBER, 1902.

This route is at present but little used, though there is a well-defined track throughout. It forms part of the old road to Darfur and is now used by merchants going to Nahud. From El Showa they go to Um Shidera, and thence, having watered their camels, to Shallota and Nahud.

83.—BARA TO KAGMAR.

BY CAPTAIN W. LLOYD, MARCH, 1900; WITH ADDITIONS IN DECEMBER, 1903.

84.—EL OBEID TO FOGA, _viâ_ MASRUB.

BY CAPTAIN W. LLOYD, OCTOBER, 1900.

N.B.—The whole of this road is said to be passable to camels in the rains, but there would probably be a good deal of difficulty 8 miles from El Obeid, near Abu Sinun, and near Bur Islam.

85.—EL OBEID TO FOGA _viâ_ UM SHEMMA, GLEIT, MASRUB AND GURADI.

BY CAPTAIN B. C. CARTER, LANCASHIRE FUSILIERS, MARCH, 1902.

This route is longer than Route 84, but there is more water.

86.—ABU AGAGA TO BARA.

BY CAPTAIN J. R. O’CONNELL, JANUARY, 1902.

87.—FOGA TO KAJA (BIR SODERI).

BY COLONEL B. MAHON, C.B., D.S.O., DECEMBER, 1901.

--------------+--------------------+---------------------------------- | Miles. | Place. +-------------+------+ Description. |Intermediate.|Total.| --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- Foga | — | — |There are no people actually | | |living on the site of the old | | |Mamuria, but there are several | | |Hamar hellas close by. Foga is a | | |good military position as there | | |are several small sand hills which | | |command the surrounding country, | | |which used to be open, but is now | | |more or less covered with bush of | | |recent growth. There are the | | |remains of hundreds of old wells | | |which can be opened with a little | | |labour, and water got at from 50 | | |feet to 90 feet. People say that | | |in the old days water was obtained | | |close to the surface, but that is | | |not so now; I fancy it was rain- | | |water. In the dry weather the | | |people from Kaja Serrug (14 miles) | | |get water from Foga. The old road | | |between Foga and Kaja is quite | | |“dead,” but there is a good road | | |between Kaja Serrug and Kaja. | | | J. Abu Dugeia | 16 | 16 |From Foga you travel N.N.E. about | | |16 miles with no track until you | | |strike the road from Kaja Serrug, | | |near J. Abu Dugeia. This is all | | |through undulating sandy country | | |covered with bush; very good | | |grazing ground for camels. | | | J. Esmein | 4 | 20 |A small rocky hill on right of | | |track, after this road dips into | | |valley; soil clay, ground flat, | | |thick bush. | | | | 8 | 28 |Small rocky range of hills on left | | |of road runs parallel with it for | | |2 miles; country fairly open and | | |undulating. | | | Khor Neilut Um| 5 | 33 |After this, country becomes more Kasus | | |open and intersected with small | | |khors which are thickly wooded; | | |ground sandy and a good lot of | | |stones and rock. | | | Khor Gelti | 11 | 44 |Rather broken ground; road good, | | |thick bush; direction changes here | | |E.N.E. | | | _Um Gelti_ | 4 | 48 |This is a well, 80 feet deep, sunk | | |in bottom of dry basin, very | | |little water and bad. | | | | 2 | 50 |Here the bush country ceases and | | |track leads E.N.E. and E. over | | |sand dunes, very heavy for camels; | | |very few trees or shade, but lots | | |of grazing, until J. Bakalai is | | |reached. | | | J. Bakalai | 21 | 71 |The road passes N. side of J. | | |Bakalai and runs nearly E. to | | |Kuku. _Um Abu Agaga_ is 6 miles | | |S.S.W. of J. Bakalai—a very | | |indistinct track leading to it—but | | |it can be recognised by groups of | | |small hills (rocks): well is near | | |the furthest one. This is a good | | |well and has water all the year, | | |but would not water more than nine | | |camels at a time. | | | _Kuku_ | 19 | 90 |Kuku is a village (two villages) | | |of blacks on the northern side of | | |J. Kuku. These people have a lot | | |of land under cultivation, but | | |this year all their crops failed. | | |They have no wells but a good | | |supply of water in tanks on the | | |mountains. These tanks are more or | | |less natural but have been widened | | |and improved by manual labour, and | | |very large rocks must have been | | |removed at some time to make them; | | |the people now know nothing about | | |how they were originally made or | | |have they any tools to do like | | |work now. All the Kaja district is | | |covered with the remains of old | | |villages: it must have been at one | | |time very thickly populated. | | | _Kaja Soderi_ | 7 | 97 |Is 7 miles off to the E.; road | | |runs along N. side of mountains | | |for 4 miles, then crosses, and the | | |wells are on the S. side. Here | | |there is a plentiful supply of | | |water: wells from 18 feet to 30 | | |feet. During the kharif there is a | | |large lake here and the wells are | | |sunk annually in its bed. | | | | | |The whole country between Foga and | | |Kaja is very suitable for camels | | |and the Arabs graze thousands | | |there during the rainy season and | | |until the fulas dry up. --------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------

88.—NAHUD TO EL FASHER.

AS FAR AS DAM JAMAD BY CAPTAIN B. C. CARTER, THENCE FROM NATIVE SOURCES.

89.—NAHUD TO BUR ISLAM.

BY CAPTAIN C. H. TOWNSEND, 18TH TO 25TH DECEMBER, 1901.

90.—NAHUD TO FOGA.

BY CAPTAIN W. LLOYD, OCTOBER, 1900; AND MAJOR E. B. WILKINSON, DECEMBER, 1901.

All villages between Nahud and Hamdan Tumbel procure their water from tebeldi trees. At Gabra and Zarzur water is procured from Um Bel. There is a certain amount of dukhn and melon cultivation near each village, but no other supplies excepting a few chickens.

No water between Nahud and Foga for any party marching, and not more than ten camels could be watered at Um Bel without depriving the inhabitants of their daily supply. This year (1901) owing to the drought there is no crop of water melons.

Country generally undulating and covered thick bush. Good track.

91.—FOGA TO UM BADR.

BY MAJOR E. B. WILKINSON, DECEMBER, 1901.

_Foga._—¾ mile S.W. of the hill, now turned into a defensive post, are the wells. There are at present (1901) nine wells giving water, and the Arabs of the Hamar and Kaja tribes are opening more. I have taken accurate measurements of depths of wells, and the depth varies from 50 to 80 feet below the surface. Water is only found in very small quantities at present, no well being able to water more than 30 camels per diem.

In the rains the Arabs dig, and have dug for many years, shallow hollows which fill up and last them through the winter sufficient to water their flocks; but this year, owing to very scanty rainfall, these hollows are all dry.[31]

There are many villages in the neighbourhood, consisting of ten to fifty huts. Dukhn is cultivated, and the Hamar Arabs also keep many ostriches, which at this time of year are all plucked quite bare. The feathers are taken to Nahud, where there is a good market for them.

92.—BARA TO FOGA.

BY CAPTAIN J. R. O’CONNELL, JULY, 1902.

93.—NAHUD TO EL EDDAIYA AND MUGLAD.

BY COLONEL B. MAHON, C.B., D.S.O., DECEMBER, 1901.

N.B.—_Distances approximate_.

94—FOGA TO EL EDDAIYA, _viâ_ J. KAJA SERRUG, DAMJAMAD, AND KORDOFAN-DARFUR.

BY CAPTAIN B. C. CARTER, JANUARY, 1903.

--------------+--------------------+---------------------------------- | Miles. | Place. +-------------+------+ Description. |Intermediate.|Total.| --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- Foga | — | — |_Vide_ Route 28. | | | J. Kajaserrug | — | — |This hill is now deserted. There | | |is a broad track running from J. | | |El Hella (Darfur), _viâ_ J. | | |Adashir into Kaja. This was | | |chiefly used, I think, for looted | | |cattle. J. Zerga holds water in | | |the rocks, and there is a khor | | |running, roughly, E. and W., with | | |tebeldi trees, which were filled | | |in the rains. They were still full | | |in January. J. Zumkhor has traces | | |of a wall and brick houses, said | | |to have been built by the Fungs. | | |Also traces of old wells in the | | |wadi. The bricks are good and | | |well-burnt. There are similar | | |buildings on J. Sukunja, W. of | | |Kaja, and also on J. Bishara Taib, | | |E. of Foga. | | | J. Zerga Mima | 9 | 9 |These villages are built on a bare | | |sandy ridge and grow dukhn only. Gilatt | 4 | 13 |Two miles from Gamania the path | | |joins road from Foga to Damjamad, Gamania | 3 | 16 |which latter is a district, | | |including 4 villages of the same | | |name. These people go to Um Shanga | | |when the water supply fails. | | | _Damjamad_ | 14 | 30 |A fair path, after passing small | | |village of Dunur, goes through | | |some thick thorn, and in about 8 | | |miles descends into Wadi Zernak. _Zernak_ | 15 | 45 |This wadi is full of tebeldi trees | | |and may be noted as a base in case | | |of trouble with Darfur. The trees | | |would hold a very large amount of | | |water, but, of course, would have | | |to be filled by hand at the proper | | |time. | | | Hemir Sibil | 15½ | 60½ |Six miles from Zernak the road | | |quits the tebeldi forest and goes | | |over undulating ridges to Hemir | | |Sibil, which depends entirely on | | |melons. There is a good deal of | | |cultivation. | | | Tom Wad | 11½ | 72 |A small village dependent chiefly | | |on melons. | | | Zarug Dagmar | 7½ | 79½ |Fair sized village growing a good | | |supply of dukhn. | | | Lingu | 9½ | 89 |This district is known as Zalatta, | | |from a rock which holds rain | | |water. | | | Edam | 3 | 92 |Small village. | | | Gurab | 7½ | 99½ |Small village, deserted early, as | | |melons were scarce. Ridges end and | | |country becomes flat with trees | | |and grass. | | | Um Reida | 8½ | 108 |Large village with many tebeldis | | |and melons enough to last till | | |next rains. This is in district | | |called Ghabeish. | | | | | |Good track all the way to El | | |Odaiya. | | | Gad el Habub | 8½ | 116½ |Small Hamar village. Few tebeldi | | |trees. | | | Wad Domai | 3½ | 120 |Village. | | | Abd el Hai | 3½ | 123½ | „ | | | _Sharafa_ | 3½ | 127 |Large Gowama village. Water from | | |tebeldis and from Ogr; a “Hafir” | | |or pond 50 yards in diameter, 8 to | | |10 feet deep, 2 miles south. It | | |holds water until about January. | | | | | |There is no bad bush from here to | | |El Eddaiya. Good going. | | | | | |Sharafa belongs to Kordofan, El | | |Ogr to Darfur. | | | Gabralla | 9 | 138 |Small village of people from | | |Bornu. | | | Gariban | 6 | 144 |Small Hamar village. Main roads | | |from Taweisha and Shakka come in | | |here. | | | Um Sedeir | 7½ | 151½ | } | | | } Wad Dunga | 7 | 158½ | } | | | } Tamba | 9½ | 168 | } All small Hamar villages. | | | } Sabi | 12 | 180 | } | | | } Aris | 7½ | 187½ | } | | | Wad Dau el | 5 | 192½ | Beit | | | | | | _El Eddaiya_ | 12 | 204½ |_Vide_ previous routes. --------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------

95.—EL OBEID TO NAHUD (DIRECT ROAD).

BY CAPTAIN E. G. MEYRICKE, R.E., NOVEMBER, 1903.

96.—EL OBEID TO NAHUD, _viâ_ ABU ZABBAT.

BY CAPTAIN W. LLOYD, APRIL AND OCTOBER, 1900, AND CAPTAIN C. H. TOWNSEND, 1901 AND 1902.

97.—EL OBEID TO EL EDDAIYA, _viâ_ SUNGIKAI.

BY CAPTAIN W. LLOYD, APRIL, 1900; AND CAPTAIN C. H. TOWNSEND, E. SURREY REGIMENT, 1901.

98.—EL OBEID TO KERAIA (J. TAGALE), _viâ_ JEBEL DAIER.

BY CAPTAIN J. R. O’CONNELL, THE KING’S SHROPSHIRE LIGHT INFANTRY, AND CAPTAIN W. LLOYD, THE SCOTTISH RIFLES, JANUARY, 1900; WITH ADDITIONS FROM EL KAIMAKAM J. BUTLER BEY’S REPORTS IN 1901.

There is no difficulty with regard to grazing or firewood on this road, but camels cannot be watered between El Obeid and El Rahad. The country S. of El Rahad is practically impassable to camels as soon as the rains commence.

99.—KERAIA TO RASHAD, AND THENCE TO J. GEDIR.

AS FAR AS RASHAD, BY CAPTAIN J. R. O’CONNELL AND CAPTAIN W. LLOYD, JANUARY, 1900; REMAINDER BY EL KAIMAKAM J. BUTLER BEY, MARCH, 1902.

From Rashad to J. Gedir there is nowhere enough water for 200 camels.

100.—KAKA (KARWA) TO J. GEDIR.

BY COLONEL B. MAHON BEY, D.S.O., 8TH HUSSARS, OCTOBER, 1899.

--------------+--------------------+---------------------------------- | Miles. | Place. +-------------+------+ Description. |Intermediate.|Total.| --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- _Karwa_ | — | — |Site of camp on left bank White | | |Nile just S. of Kaka. Good camping | | |ground S.E. of village. | | | | | |The track leaves the river and | | |runs practically W.N.W., but winds | | |greatly through trees, bush, | | |scrub, and high grass, which | | |requires clearing for camel | | |transport or guns. | | | | 6½ | 6½ |Track continues W.N.W. over a very | | |extensive shadeless plain, covered | | |with grass 3½ to 5 feet high, but | | |not thick. Until beaten down or | | |burnt, this grass makes marching | | |difficult for infantry. | | | Domat, or | 8 | 14½ |There has been a lot of water at Domaia, or El | | |Domat, but it is now (Oct.) Zeif | | |practically dried up. | | | | | |At Domat there are two or three | | |groups of dom palms, which show up | | |well and can be seen for a long | | |distance. From here the hills of | | |Kau and Niaro can be seen bearing | | |about 275° magnetic. | | | | | |From Domat, for the next 6¾ miles, | | |there is no track, but, if from | | |the largest group of dom palms on | | |left of track you march due W. | | |magnetic after going about 2 | | |miles, a thick clump of dark green | | |bush is seen on the skyline at | | |about 3½ miles distant, and on the | | |same bearing. A few degrees to the | | |right of the clump, the hill of | | |Fungor can be seen from the same | | |point. | | | Mohabia or | 5¾ | 20¼ |Beyond Mohabia, the above- Hobobia | | |mentioned clump of bush, J. Fungor | | |cannot be seen again until you | | |arrive within about 2 miles from | | |it, except from one point, viz.: | | |Sahab. | | | | | |From Domat to the commencement of | | |the forest a plain is crossed | | |covered with grass from 3 to 5 | | |feet high. From Mohabia on, the | | |track is again visible through | | |grass, as before. | | | | | |At 22¾ miles the edge of the | | |forest is reached. Track winds | | |through forest and undergrowth, | | |the latter not very thick. Timber | | |much injured by fire. No good | | |shade. | | | Sahab | 4½ | 24¾ |There was water till recently | | |here; now (Oct.) dried up. J. | | |Fungor visible bearing 275° | | |magnetic. | | | | | |Track through forest as before. | | | _Safa, or | 8¾ | 33½ |Fine trees giving excellent shade Sufa_ | | |at Safa. Two pools of water in | | |sandstone rocks; one is 27 yards | | |long by 16 yards wide, and 9 | | |inches deep, the other, circular, | | |20 yards in diameter, and 9 inches | | |deep. If the water remains as at | | |present, enough to water all our | | |animals. | | | | | |Path continues distinctly marked | | |and through forest without much | | |undergrowth except where one or | | |two grassy khors are crossed. Very | | |good ground for marching. | | | | | |Within 1 mile of Fungor, country | | |has been cleared for cultivation, | | |and there is some dura and high | | |grass. | | | _J. Fungor_ | 12 | 45½ |Very good camping ground N.E. of | | |the centre hill and close to the | | |water. | | | | | |Several large tanks of good water | | |were found besides several smaller | | |ones of still better water amongst | | |the rocks on the hill side. With | | |the assistance of a heavy | | |thunderstorm the water supply was | | |ample for two battalions, 500 | | |cavalry, and some Camel Corps and | | |transport for 3 or 4 days in | | |October, 1899. In fact no | | |impression was made on it. | | | | | |The village is situated on the E. | | |side of the central hill, which is | | |about 350 feet high. The hill is | | |very steep and difficult to ascend | | |with boots. The inhabitants are | | |almost all Nubas. Mek’s name | | |Khalil. There are also some Aulad | | |Hameid under Sheikh Idris. | | | | | |For the first 2 miles the path | | |winds through high grass and very | | |thick bush, crossing one small | | |khor, containing water from | | |previous night’s rain. The bush is | | |of low sunt, and was evidently | | |once a clearing. | | | | 2 | 47½ |The path passes to the right of | | |some low rocky hills, after which | | |the forest opens out, and the | | |trees, chiefly heglig and acacia, | | |are bigger. The soil is sandy, | | |grass very low, and little | | |undergrowth. | | | | 2½ | 50 |At about 4½ miles the track is | | |opposite the S.E. end of the Kau | | |range, which is a ½ mile on the | | |right. Country fairly open; going | | |very good. | | | _Kau_ | 2½ | 52½ |The village of Kau is on the W. | | |slope of J. Kau. It contains about | | |500 inhabitants. Nubawi blacks; | | |neither men nor women are clothed. | | |Most of the houses are built high | | |up amongst the rocks. Water | | |obtainable from crevices on the | | |rocky hillside. A good many dom | | |palms near the village. A space of | | |about 10 feddans to W. of hill was | | |formerly cleared, but is now | | |overgrown with small dom palms, | | |about 4 feet high. After leaving | | |Kau, the track winds through open | | |forest, the trees improve in size, | | |and more tropical plants are seen. | | |Large numbers of bamboos, of | | |apparently very good quality, grow | | |in clusters along the small khors. | | |Soil light and sandy. | | | | 5¾ | 58¼ |Nearly 6 miles from Kau the soil | | |becomes heavy clay, and the grass | | |is higher. The path winds a good | | |deal, and is full of holes caused | | |by subsidence after rain. It would | | |be necessary to clear a track for | | |guns or transport for the next 1¼ | | |miles, after which the path | | |improves and the going is sounder. | | | _Shag el | 3¼ | 61½ |Here there are two large rocks; Hagar_ | | |the higher, about 50 feet in | | |height, commands a good view; the | | |lower, about 12 feet high, | | |contains a large supply of water | | |in four large and several small | | |natural tanks, three of these are | | |each about 60 feet long and 6 feet | | |to 10 feet wide, and vary in depth | | |from 2 feet to 4 feet. The fourth | | |is 150 feet long and 9 feet wide, | | |and from 4 feet to 6 feet deep. | | |The water is excellent; 550 men | | |and 420 horses were watered twice | | |in 36 hours at these tanks and | | |made little apparent difference in | | |the supply. As there is no | | |catchment area, except the surface | | |of the rock, it looks as if the | | |tanks were fed by springs. Should | | |the source of supply be capable of | | |giving more water, the amount | | |retained could be easily increased | | |by building a small dam across the | | |end of the large tank, which would | | |increase the depth to 9 feet. One | | |of the other tanks could be | | |similarly treated, but the result | | |would not be so great. Horses must | | |be watered from buckets. | | | | | |Country around is covered with | | |fairly open forest of good-sized | | |trees, with a little undergrowth. | | |No bamboos were noticed after | | |this. | | | | | |For about 3 miles the track | | |continues through forest. At 19 | | |miles it reaches a large open | | |glade about 2 miles wide, with | | |very few trees, and with grass 3½ | | |feet high. It is apparently a | | |clearing made at some time by | | |fire. Track then continues through | | |open forest of very fine trees, | | |many of which are tabeldi | | |(Adansonia). | | | Khor Goz El | 7¼ | 68¾ |On this occasion, owing to the Tabeldi | | |recent rain, there was sufficient | | |water in this khor to water the | | |men and horses, but water cannot | | |be counted on. Country remains | | |open; trees scattered, but | | |sufficient for shade. Grass 5 feet | | |to 8 feet high. | | | Khor El Waja | 4¾ | 73½ |This is a grassy khor, about ¼ | | |mile wide, quite dry, but said to | | |hold water during rains. It is | | |intersected by narrow water | | |channels, 3 feet to 6 feet deep. | | |The khor, whose soil is black | | |clay, would be a serious obstacle | | |to troops in the rainy season, and | | |would, I think, be impassable for | | |guns and transport while in flood. | | | Khor Melisa | 1 | 74½ |This is a sandy khor about 17 | | |yards wide, with steep banks 10 | | |feet to 14 feet deep, said to come | | |from J. Girada. In the rains it | | |must be a considerable obstacle. | | |The country continues open, but | | |with grass from 6 feet to 8 feet | | |high, to within 2¾ miles of Gedir, | | |when a belt of thick acacia and | | |kittr scrub, 1¾ miles in width, is | | |crossed. For guns or pack animals, | | |it would be necessary to clear a | | |path through this belt. | | | | | |About 1½ miles from Gedir, the | | |sandy khor, Gedad, 8 feet wide and | | |6 feet to 8 feet deep, said to | | |come from J. Girada, is crossed. | | |The last ¾ mile to Gedir is open | | |ground with few scattered trees. | | | _J. Gedir_ | 7¾ | 82¼ |A rocky horseshoe-shaped hill, | | |estimated altitude above the plain | | |600 feet. The village is on the | | |re-entrant. Near the gorge are two | | |wells about 80 feet deep, with a | | |little water. No other water was | | |seen. There are about 500 | | |inhabitants. Many of the men have | | |rifles. They are not naked like | | |those of Kau, and appear to be a | | |cross between Arabs and Nubas. | | | | | |The Mahdi’s Stone is a large | | |boulder up the slope of the hill, | | |outside of, and about ½ a mile | | |from the northern heel of the | | |horseshoe, and on the way to | | |Girada, of the same colour as the | | |surrounding rocks, and shaded by a | | |heglig tree, which may account for | | |the Mahdi’s partiality for it. No | | |cultivation was seen, but the | | |inhabitants said they had some | | |dura fields ripening. | | | | | |Jebel Girada appears to be 5 to 7 | | |miles distant. It is said to have | | |a plentiful water supply. --------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------

101.—EL OBEID TO DAR EL JANGE.

BY MAJOR E. B. WILKINSON, JANUARY AND FEBRUARY, 1902.

--------------+--------------------+---------------------------------- | Miles. | Place. +-------------+------+ Description. |Intermediate.|Total.| --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- El Obeid | — | — |Leaving the Mudiria, the road runs | | |in a S.S.W. direction, and at 1½ | | |miles distance further on reaches | | |the southern edge of the El Obeid | | |basin, and low acacia bush and an | | |occasional baobab tree take the | | |place of dukhn cultivation. | | | Track to _El | 5 | 5 |At 5 miles distance from El Obeid, Atshan Wells_ | | |a broad track runs in a S.W. | | |direction to El Atshan wells, | | |which are situated in Khor | | |Fertangul, 22 miles from El Obeid. | | | | | |The road to El Merekib continues | | |in the same direction, viz., | | |S.S.W., and one passes through the | | |same kind of bush with sandy soil | | |until the village is reached. The | | |inhabitants consist of Bederia and | | |Ghodiat Arabs. | | | _El Merekib_ | 5 | 10 |There is a well here, but the | | |supply of water is very small. | | |Dukhn is cultivated around the | | |village. | | | | | |The road continues in a S.W. by S. | | |direction until J. Fertangul is J. Fertangul | 6½ | 16½ |reached. There are two small hills | | |of the same name; one E. of the | | |road, and 6½ miles distant from | 1½ | 18 |Merekib, and the other on the W. | | |of the road, and 8 miles distant | | |from Merekib. The crest of latter | | |is crowned with white limestone. | | | _Khor | 1 | 19 |One mile from the hill, Khor Fertangul_ | | |Fertangul with wells in its bed is | | |reached. | | | | 5 | 24 |Khor. | | | Khor Kashgil | 1½ | 25½ |Khor Kashgil with good shade and | | |grazing. | | | | | |Here road changes direction to | | |S.S.E., and runs through thick | | |bush for 9¾ miles until khor _El Edeidat_ | 9¾ | 35½ |crosses road; this place is known | | |as El Edeidat. There are two wells | | |in khor. (Plenty of water March, | | |1904.) | | | Hella Abdel | 5 | 40¼ |Road runs S. from here, and 5 Samad | | |miles on a track runs S.E. to | | |Hella Abdel Samad, which is about | | |1 mile off the main road. | | | _El Birket_ | 2¾ | 43 |One and three-quarter miles on | | |road turns due W., and 1 mile on | | |brings one to El Birket; there are | | |two villages here consisting of | | |Bederia Arabs who have a good deal | | |of land under cultivation. Here | | |there is a large lake or | | |reservoir, which I am informed | | |contains much water for eight | | |months in the year, but owing to | | |this year being exceptionally dry | | |there was no water (February, | | |1902), and wells sunk in the | | |centre 24 feet deep were also dry. | | |The area of this reservoir is | | |probably 2 square miles. Good | | |timber and shade on the southern | | |edge of the lake. | | | | | |From here the road runs S.W. | | |through thick bush, and the soil | | |changes to black cotton soil. | | | El Edaiya Faki| 7 | 50 |The district known as El Edaiya Yasin | | |commences, and Hella Beni Fadl is | | |reached. | | | Um Seneina | 2¾ | 52¾ |Hella Um Seneina. | | | Abu Habl | 3¼ | 56 |Khor Abu Habl is reached at | | |Sessaban. This district is _Um Sessaban_ | | |inhabited by Bederia Arabs; each | | |village has a certain amount of | | |land cleared and under cultivation | | |(dukhn). Khor Abu Habl is here | | |about 15 to 20 yards broad, with | | |high banks varying from 15 to 20 | | |feet with good timber growing | | |along them. A few wells are sunk | | |at Sessaban, but the supply of | | |water was not sufficient to allow | | |of animals being watered (8.1.02). | | | H. El Daruta | 3½ | 59½ |H. El Daruta (Bederia), J. | | |Belgulti and Fainar visible from | | |here. | | | | 2 | 61½ |Track runs W., and | | | H. Balamat | 1 | 62½ |Hella Balamat is reached. | | | _Kururra_ | 2½ | 65 |Khor Abu Habl is again struck at | | |Kururra well, which is situated | | |under a very fine gemmeiza tree, | | |and gives a large quantity of | | |water. | | | | | |Well, 80 feet to water, and there | | |was 20 feet of water in it. | | |Kururra village ½ mile E. of well, | | |Bederia, also water at this well. | | |Hawazma Arabs. | | | _Sungikai_ | 3 | 68 |Wells of Sungikai—four in number, | | |72 feet deep in khor; banks of | | |khor 10 to 15 feet high. Large | | |population of Hawazma Arabs. | | | | | |Sungikai village 1½ miles N.W. | | | | | |From Sungikai village a much used | | |road runs N.N.W. to El Obeid, | | |passing through El Atshan wells in | | |Khor Fertangul, distance 48 miles. | | | Zeriba El Aguz| 2½ | 70½ |Leaving Sungukai wells, one enters or H. El | | |a very rich district. Road runs Birgid | | |S.W., and 2½ miles H. El Birgid | | |(Bederia) is reached, and villages | | |occur almost every mile till El | | |Nila is reached. There is much | | |cultivation in this district; the | | |inhabitants (Hawazma) possess many | | |cattle, and N. of Nila there is | | |excellent timber. | | | _El Nila_ | 5½ | 76 |At _El Nila_ there are six wells, | | |average 42 feet deep, giving | | |excellent supply of water, and | | |many hundreds of cattle, sheep and | | |goats water there daily. Fine | | |gemmeiza, sunt, haraz, and heglig | | |trees. Four to five Arab (Ferikgs) | | |or settlements. Khor 20 yards | | |between banks, which in places are | | |22 to 25 feet broad. All along | | |bank there is very good timber. | | | | | |Leaving El Nila wells in a S.S.E. | | |direction, there is an excellent | | |and much used road to J. Watta, | | |distant 30 miles, first 10 miles | | |good shade, after that none. | | | _J. | 15 | 91 |Leaving El Nila, road runs S.W. Dilling_[32] | | |and after 13 miles through forest | | |of heglig and talh, and over | | |cotton soils bring one to J. | | |Dilling, consisting of a group of | | |hills; thickly populated by Nubas | | |who build their little conical | | |huts in groups in suitable | | |recesses among the boulders high | | |up in the hills. | | | | ½ | 91½ |Half a mile S.W. wells in khor; | | |khor 25 to 30 yards broad; good | | |shade and grazing; good camp | | |ground. | | | _J. Abu Sebah_| 4 | 95½ |Four miles S.W. is J. Abu Sebah, a | | |small rocky hill ½ mile from khor | | |along which there is a small | | |population of Hawazma Arabs, who | | |have dug wells, four in number, in | | |khor, depth 21 feet to water. | | |Deleib palms were first seen | | |between Dilling and this, and the | | |country intervening is cleared and | | |cultivated. | | | | | |From J. Abu Sebah road to Gulfan | | |runs S.E. over cotton soil for | | |first four miles. Open bush and | | |then talh, heglig bush, &c. | | | J. Samasen | 15 | 110½ |J. Samasen is passed, and | | | | 4 | 114½ |Four miles on, one reaches the | | |foot of hills where soil becomes | | |more gravelly, and contains a lot | | |of detritus and broken rock, which | | |makes going harder for camels. The | | |road trends S. and then W., | | |winding over spurs from the main _J. Gulfan_ | 3 | 117½ |hills and passing over large areas | | |which are cultivated with dura, | | |eventually entering between the | | |hills crowned with many Nuba | | |villages and Gulfan is reached. | | | | | |Here there was very little water. | | |Wells mere holes 6 feet to 8 feet, | | |and having a very slow yield. | | |Hills are here terraced to the | | |top, and dura grown in large | | |quantities. The terraces are most | | |carefully made and walls of stone | | |are built. | | | | | |From Gulfan the road runs W. over | | |rock, and going is bad, as one is | | |continually ascending and | | |descending spurs. | | | | 2 | 119½ |Two miles after leaving, wells | | |(mere holes in the ground, about 6 J. Tarda | 1 | 120½ |feet deep) are passed, the road | | |now running between two ranges of | ½ | 121 |hills, and there is an Arab | | |settlement. J. Tarda is left on | | |the N. and J. Watta 4 miles N.E., | | |and road turns S. and S.W., | | |following the contour of the | | |southern range of hills, and ½ | | |mile on a road branches, running | | |N.E. to J. Watta, which is | | |inhabited by Nubas and Arabs. | | | | | |The road to J. Watta runs N.E. | | |through thick bush for 4½ miles, | | |and crosses a khor close to the | | |hill. There are many wells, but | | |most give very little water which, | | |however, is of good quality. The | | |road to Kadaro and El Obeid from | | |S. passes through here; and also | | |there is an excellent road to | | |Nila, running N.N.W. through talh | | |and jungle. This road is greatly | | |used by Hawazma Arabs, who migrate | | |N. annually. Six miles after | | |leaving J. Watta, J. Tungul is | | |left on E., 3 miles off road, and | | |at 16 miles J. Dilling el Khulla | | |is passed, 1 mile W. of road. No | | |shade for 20 miles, then good | | |shade and grazing; total distance | | |to Nila 30 miles. | | | _Katta_ | 2½ | 123½ |Nuba village Katta is passed, and | | |there is an Arab settlement close | | |by. Much dura is cultivated. J. | | |Sheibun and Um Heitan is visible. | | | | 2 | 125½ |A large rocky hill with jagged | | |crest; low bush, no shade. Here | | |road runs S.S.W., and 2¼ miles on | | |khor is passed which had water in | | |a hole under S. bank on 21.2.02. | | |Road continues in same direction | 2¼ | 127¾ |and the country is very much the | | |same as before, talh and heglig, | 9½ | 137¼ |only the soil is more gravelly | | |until Khor Debri and Debri wells, | | |6 feet deep, are reached. Leaving | | |Debri wells, where there is a | | |small hill, road runs S.W. for 2 | | |miles, and ¾ mile further S. | | | _J. Debri_ | 2¾ | 140 |J. Debri, with village (Nuba) of | | |the same name is passed. Here much | | |land is cleared and dura | | |cultivated at the foot of hills. | | | _J. Kega_ | 2 | 142 |Two miles south of Debri road | | |bends to W., skirting the foot of | | |the hills, and J. Kega Tummero is | | |reached. This is a large conical | | |hill, part of W. chain of other | | |features, and up the sides of | | |which the Nubas have built their | | |huts, some situated right on the | | |top, at the foot of which and in | | |the re-enterants are also many | | |huts belonging to them and also | | |Arabs. There is a well here but | | |the water is very bad. | | | _Khor Kega_ | 2 | 144 |Two miles on Khor Kega is reached, | | |which flows from J. Kega el Abiad | | |and Kega Libu. There are six wells | | |in bed of khor, which is 20 yards | | |wide, 6 to 8 feet deep; water good | | |and abundant, good shade and | | |grazing. Much dura is cultivated | | |in the plain, and there is an Arab | | |(Hawazma) settlement. Crossing | | |Khor Kega road runs roughly S. | | |over cotton soil with talh and | | |heglig forest, and at 3½ miles Khor El Kuek | 3½ | 147½ |Khor El Kuek is crossed. | | | _Hella Daud_ | 12 | 159½ |Eleven miles on Hella Daud, 35 to | | |40 huts belonging to Hawazmas, who | | |cultivate dura and have much | | |ground cleared. From here to S.W. | | |the Miri range and J. Demik and | | |Kega Heg El Kheil are visible. | | |Water is transported from wells in | | |a khor E. of village at the foot | | |of J. Tesein Dhanat. | | | | | |After continuing S. through the | | |same kind of forest and crossing | | |many small watercourses which flow | | |W. from the hills, the road skirts | | |the foot of J. Musta, and Kadugli _J. Kadugli_ | 7 | 166½ |is reached. Here there is a | | |population of Nubas and Hawazma | | |Arabs. The Mek of the Nubas is | | |named Rehal, and he exercises | | |power over all the surrounding | | |hills. The whole of this range of | | |high hills containing J. Tesem | | |Dhanab, J. Musta and J. Kadugli, | | |is known by the name of El Goghub. | | |J. Sabori, to the W., is also | | |inhabited. | | | | | | FROM KADUGLI TO KEILAK. | | | _Khor Kadugli_| ½ | 167 |Leaving the camp at the foot of J. | | |Kadugli one proceeds W. and ½ mile | | |on brings one to the khor of the | | |same name. Here there are three | | |groups of wells. (1) ¾ mile W. of | | |Arab village there are a group of | | |some half a dozen wells, | | |principally used by Arabs. (2) | | |Central group, live wells 6 feet | | |deep, used by Nubas. (3) 1 mile | | |down stream and S., two wells 6 | | |feet deep, used by the Mek’s | | |immediate household; all give a | | |good supply of water. There is | | |very good grazing all along the | | |khor. Much dura cultivated. | | | J. Kaffari | 2 | 169 |J. Kaffari is passed S. of road | | |which runs W. through much dura | 1 | 170 |cultivation and along the banks of | | |Khor Kadugli, which rises in Miri | | |range. Road passes now between low | | |range of hills, and continues W. | | |by S. for 5 miles through level | | |plain covered with heglig, talh, | 5 | 175 |and haraz forest, with clearings | | |for dura cultivation, with the | | |hills close in on either side | | |forming a narrow gorge scarcely | | |200 yards wide, down which runs a | | |khor some 10 to 15 yards broad. | | |The ground being rocky it is very | ¾ | 175¾ |bad going for camels and bulls. | | | | | |Gorge turns abruptly S., and road | | |continues on through pretty | | |scenery in a W. direction over a | | |rocky saddle-back, and then one | | |gradually descends into a valley | | |in which a large and important | | |khor rises which feeds Lake | | |Keilak, and enters the Bahr El | | |Arab. Water here obtained by | | |digging in the sand in bed of | | |khor. | | | | | |Plain surrounded by green | | |vegetation; good timber, and there | | |is much land cleared for dura | | |cultivation. The hills are | | |terraced to the tops and dura | | |grown on them. | | | _Tuluk_ | 5 | 180 |Tuluk, the abode of Mek Hamed Abu | | |Sekin, is reached, and there are | | |many groups of villages in the | | |surrounding hills; some low down | | |near the foot, others perched high | | |up near the crests. Here, | | |surrounded on all sides by hills, | | |is a large open area of ground | | |with water within 2 feet of the | | |surface, probably 1½ square miles | | |of rich soil, which, if only | | |tilled, would grow almost | | |everything. The Nubas only require | | |dura, however. | | | J. Kufa | 3 | 183 |Leaving Tuluk the track runs along | | |side of khor, which now runs S.W., | | |and 3 miles on J. Kufa, with | | |several large villages, is passed. | | |Here roads divide; one, following | | |khor, passes through plain much | | |cultivated with dura by the Nubas | | |of J. Kufa, Lima, and Kania. The | | |khor here is walled across at | | |intervals with large stones to | | |hold back the water in the rains. | | |Khor emerges from the hills at J. | | |Kania. | | | _J. Abu Sinun_| 2 | 185 |The second road runs S.S.W. to J. | | |Abu Sinun, where there are two | | |Nuba villages under Mek Zakharia, | | |and a Homr (Felaita) village. | | |Water obtained from khor. | | | _J. Kanga_ | 3 | 188 |Three miles W. is J. Kanga, the | | |southern side of which hill is | | |fortified by a 6-feet stone wall, | | |crowned by a zeriba to guard the | | |Nubas from raids by the Homr | | |Arabs. The huts are high up the | | |hill. Khor emerges here between | | |two hills, and is now 20 to 25 | | |yards broad; well 4 to 6 feet in | | |khor; water good. Looking S. about | | |20 miles off are two hills, and | | |beyond as far as the eye can reach | | |to the S. and W. is a dead level | | |plain covered with forest. From J. | | |Kanga, road runs W. and S.W., and | | |for 1½ miles there is dura | | |cultivation. | | | | 1 | 189 |Khor crosses road, and cotton soil | | |takes the place of rocky | | |decomposed gravel. The forest is | | |of larger growth—talh and heglig, | | |and the tracks of animals which | | |have struggled through the deep | | |mud that exists in the rains | | |become visible. | | | | 3½ | 192½ |Road again crosses khor, and long | | |grass hinders any view. | | | | 2½ | 195 |Road crosses outlet from Lake | | |Keilak, which now becomes visible, | | |and then goes due W. for two miles | | |when Keilak is reached. | | | _Keilak_ | 2 | 197 |Keilak is a series of groups of | | |tukls badly built and inhabited by | | |Homr Arabs who possess few flocks, | | |a few horses, and appear to live | | |on the Nubas. | | | | | |The limits of the lake are very | | |difficult to determine, as for 2 | | |miles on N.E. and N. sides long | | |grass 8 feet high hides all view, | | |but from what can be observed by | | |riding round the length was | | |computed to be 4 miles and the | | |breadth 2 miles. On 22.1.02, there | | |was a very large expanse of open | | |water, and the natives reported it | | |to be considerably over a man’s | | |height in depth. In order to reach | | |the open water one has to wade | | |through a broad fringe of green | | |grass and lilies. Soil surrounding | | |lake excellent, rich soil and | | |water could be found a mile from | | |edge, 6 feet below surface. The | | |forest on S. and W. sides very | | |good, and there are some really | | |fine timber trees. | | | | | | | 2 | 199 |Leaving Keilak road runs N. for 2 | | |miles then S.S.E., and numerous | | |Arab settlements are passed | | |situated along the outlet of the | | |lake. | | | _El Geref_ | 4½ | 203½ |4½ miles El Geref; Homr | | |settlement; here there is water in | | |any quantity, 8 paces broad with | | |grass and water-lilies covering | | |the surface. Water 1 to 2 feet | | |deep in places. Current very | | |slight; Arabs clear spaces and | | |fence them round for fish to | | |collect in. | | | | 1¼ | 204¾ |Road then goes S.W. for 1¼ miles, | | |then S.S.E. for 2½ miles over a | | |broad swamp, dry at date of | | |crossing (25.1.02), but covered | | |with long grass and pitted with | | |elephant tracks, which were | 2½ | 207¼ |terrible pitfalls for the baggage | | |animals. After crossing this bit | | |of country, track runs S.W., along | | |edge of bed of river, which was | | |dry, and going became better, and | | |when track ran on the slightly | | |elevated edge of forest; the soil _El Yoi_ | 20¾ | 228 |was sandy and going good until El | | |Yoi was reached. Along immediate | | |edge of river, forest very good. | | |To the E. and W. away from river, | | |talh and heglig forest and cotton | | |soil. | | | | | |At El Yoi two pools were found, | | |containing good water sufficient | | |for our wants, but likely only to | | |last for a few days. Ground here | | |much cut up and intersected by | | |small water channels, while soil | | |was baked hard and cracked in all | | |directions, making it most | | |difficult for bulls and donkeys to | | |travel. At El Yoi itself, good | | |shade and fine trees; forest in | | |neighbourhood and to S. consists | | |of talh, and ground covered with | | |long grass. | | | _El Dirkoei_ | 7¾ | 235¾ |Road continues S.W., and after 7¾ | | |miles, El Dirkoei is reached; this | | |place merely a reach of the river, | | |which at the time contained a | | |little water. | | | _El Debekir_ | 3½ | 239¼ |Three and a-half miles S.W., El | | |Debekir was reached. Here there | | |was an Arab (Homr) settlement; | | |water in bed of river, 8 feet deep | | |in places and covered with grass | | |(27.1.02), but dry on 11.2.02. | | | | | |From Debekir road runs over black | | |cotton soil very much fissured. W. | 13¾ | 253 |by S. for 13¾ miles, then S.S.W. | | |for 3 miles when heglig forest is _El Anga_ | 3 | 256 |entered and El Anga on river is | | |reached. Here there is an Arab | | |settlement, and there was a little | | |water (28.1.02). | | | _Kuek_ | 5½ | 261½ |Road now runs 1¾ miles S.W., and | | |S. for 3¾ miles when Kuek is | | |reached. Here the river is 50 | | |yards broad, and the water was | | |from 2 feet 6 inches to 4 feet | | |deep, but covered with grass. | | |Large Arab settlement and many | | |cattle. | | | _H. Debib_ | 6 | 267½ |Road runs S.W. for 6 miles, when | | |H. Debib is passed; a few Homr | | |Arabs living here; but in the | | |rains there are many wells; one | | |well 6 feet deep, water good. | | | | | |General run of road now S.S.W. to | | |S. | | | Fula Hamadai | 3½ | 271 |Fula Hamadai with a little water | | |sufficient to water animals on | | |30.1.02; but dry on 9.2.02. Small | | |villages—mere collection of three | | |or four huts passed at El Jaart | | |and Um Geren. | | | Fut | 11¾ | 282¾ |Eleven and three quarter miles | | |from Fula Hamadai, village named | | |Fut was passed. Country here more | | |open and lower bush; going better, | | |and road crosses river bed; dry | | |and long grass. | | | _Fauwel_ | 4 | 286¾ |Fauwel is reached. Large Arab | | |settlement; much water in river, | | |and an open expanse 1¾ miles | | |surrounded by reeds. Geese and | | |waterfowl. Homr Arabs here very | | |wild, but possess many cattle, | | |goats and sheep. | | | | 8¾ | 295½ |Road now runs 1 mile S.W. and 5¾ | | |miles S.S.E. and strikes the | | |river, then continues to run | | |alongside of it for 2 miles, when | | |the river takes a bend N.E. The | | |river here is very broad, 300 | | |yards in places and the water is 3 | | |feet 6 inches deep, generally the | | |surface is covered with grass and | | |weeds, and very little open water | | |is seen. The trees on bank are | | |also much bigger. | | | Bahr El Arab | 5 | 300½ |The Bahr El Arab here has to be | | |crossed, and this was done at a | | |point where it was 120 yards | | |broad, with water 3 to 3 feet 6 | | |inches deep, the baggage bulls | | |being unloaded and the baggage | | |being carried across by hand. Bed | | |of river very muddy. | | | | | |From this point, which is known to | | |the Arabs, as the district of | | |Bara, the river flows S.S.E. as | | |far as could be judged. | | | | | |Track now runs S., and at 5 miles | | |divides one running S.S.W. to the | | |country of a Dinka chief called | | |Rueng, the other S.S.W. leads over | | |a wide plain covered with long | | |grass and a few bushes; surface of | | |ground much fissured and soil much | | |cut up. | | | | | |Country changes to forest after | | |some miles. | | | Bongo | 14¾ | 315¼ |The first Dinka village of Bombo | | |is reached. This district is now | 3 | 318¼ |known as Bongo, and 3 miles on, | | |S.W., is one of the villages of Tehak | 2½ | 320¾ |Tehak, another of the same name | | |being met 2½ miles on. | | | | | |These villages, neatly built, are | | |used by the Dinkas in the rains | | |and as long as the water lasts. At | | |the present date, 2.2.02., all the | | |inhabitants had left and were | | |grazing their herds of cattle | | |where grass and water were to be | | |found. | | | _Etai_ | 2 | 322¾ |Reached Etai, where the first | | |Dinkas were met. Here there were | | |large settlements, and the people | | |were most friendly. A chief named | | |Lor has his headquarters here. A | | |large watercourse flows in from | | |N.E. and meets another | | |watercourse, the Regabet El Lau, | | |which comes from N.W., and then | | |joining runs into the Kir, or Bahr | | |El Jange, in a southerly | | |direction. | | | _Kir, or Bahr | 5½ | 328¼ |Road continues for 3 miles through El Jange_ | | |forest S.W., then runs W. for 2½, | | |miles, and the Kir River, or Bahr | | |El Jange, is struck, as one | | |reaches the settlements of Sultan | | |Rob. | | | | | |The river here is a most pleasant | | |sight after the monotonous red | | |talh forest and long grass, and is | | |80 yards broad now, 3.2.02., 12 to | | |15 feet deep, current 1½ miles an | | |hour. Banks low but firm, with | | |green rushes and grass along the | | |edges. In the rains the banks are | | |flooded and the river widens to | | |200 to 400 yards. There are a few | | |dugouts here; the natives say that | | |canoes can go in open water to the | | |Bahr El Ghazal. Fish are | | |plentiful, as are also crocodiles | | |and hippos. | | | | | |The district on N. bank is called | | |Mareg. The district on S. bank is | | |called Masian, and the Sultan Rob | | |lives in the latter. Much dura is | | |cultivated. --------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------

102.—RIVER KIR TO FAUWEL.

BY MAJOR E. B. WILKINSON, JANUARY AND FEBRUARY, 1902.

GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF BAHR EL ARAB AND DAR EL HOMR.

Immediately one emerges from the hilly country of the Nubas a vast level plain meets the eye, absolutely devoid of landmarks: the soil changes abruptly to rich black cotton soil with fissures, some so broad and deep that it is dangerous for bulls and donkeys, owing to their getting their legs jammed in the cracks. The surface of the land is uniformly covered with talh and heglig trees; occasionally tamarind and kau trees are met. Only two india-rubber trees were seen. The natives do not appear to know the use of these. The Bahr El Arab in section is very shallow, with no defined banks, and at this time of year water is more or less in pools. All the confluents are the same shallow watercourses, and the country appears to be one vast swamp in the rains. Only in a few places, Fauwel, Keilak, and Kuek, do the Homr Arabs remain throughout the year, as they say that the flies and mosquitoes torment men and beasts to such an extent as to make life unbearable.

103.—EL OBEID TO SUNGIKAI, _viâ_ EL ATSHAN AND EL HAMADI.

BY DEPUTY INSPECTOR C. E. LYALL.

N.B.—On El Obeid, Hamadi Sungikai road, except in rains, there is very little shade, except at El Atshan, Hamadi, El Nebag and Umhagiz.

104.—DILLING TO EL OBEID, _viâ_ SUNGIKAI, UM DURBAN AND UM RAMAD.

BY DEPUTY INSPECTOR C. E. LYALL, JUNE 1903 AND MARCH, 1904.

--------------+--------------------+---------------------------------- | Miles. | Place. +-------------+------+ Description. |Intermediate.|Total.| --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- _Dilling | — | — |The road from Dilling to Sungikai (Nuba)_ | | |soon after passing Jebel Dilling | | |separates from the Dilling-Nila | | |road and keeps W. of it. The | | |general direction is N.E., the | | |road is good going and fairly free Gad El Kerim | 16 | 16 |from thorns. There are a few (Hawazma) | | |patches of black cotton soil; | | |after 10 miles the road crosses | | |the Khor Abu Habl,[33] and | | |continues N.E. till Hellet Gad el | | |Kerim is reached. | | | | | |The inhabitants of this village | | |drink from the wells at Nila, | | |except during the rains, when they | | |drink from pools in Khor Abu Habl. _Sungikai | 6 | 22 |The road keeps up on the rising (Zeriba El | | |ground, passing numerous villages Aguz)_ | | |till the largest village in the | | |immediate neighbourhood of | | |Sungikai, Zeriba el Aguz, is | | |reached. | | | _Sungikai_ (H.| 2 | 24 |Leaving this village the road from Gaghgagh) | | |Sungikai after being joined by | | |roads from the numerous | | |surrounding villages continues in | | |a N.E. direction till El Hagiz is | | |reached, ½ mile after passing | | |which the road divides N.N.E. to | | |Um Durban. The road, after passing | | |to the W. of Zeriba el Aguz, goes | | |H. Gaghgagh and thence to El | | |Hagiz, where it divides W. to Um | | |Durban and E. to El Hamadi. | | | _Um Durban_ | 24 | 48 |The road is at first very winding (Kenana) | | |with a good deal of shok, after | | |about 6 miles it opens out, and | | |continues fair till Um Durban is | | |reached; where on 5.6.03, there | | |was a little water from wells in | | |khor; in March 1904, the water had | | |dried up. | | | | | |Leaving Um Durban the road goes | | |N.E., after about 6 miles Hellet | | |Kafawa is passed some 4 miles to | | |the W. of the road. | | | | | |The road continues in the same | | |direction N.E., the going being | | |uniformly good and free from shok, | | |except in a few depressions and | | |khors till after some 24 miles, | | |when the soil becomes heavy red _Um Ramad_ | 30 | 78 |sand, which continues till Um (Bederia) | | |Ramad is reached. At this village | | |there are numerous shallow wells | | |and water holes, but they were | | |quite dry on 6.6.03, but plenty of | | |water 1.5.04. The people drink | | |from Abu Haraz and Obeid. The road | | |from Um Durban joins the Abu Haraz | | |road ½ mile from Um Ramad. | | | | | |After passing Um Ramad the road | | |broadens out into a track about 15 | | |feet wide, and continues in a N.E. | | |direction till El Obeid is | | |reached. | | | _El Gika_ | 5 | 83 |Five miles after leaving Um Ramad, | | |the first El Gika village is | | |passed ½ mile to the left of the | | |road. Plenty of water 1.5.04. | | | | | |There are five villages at El | | |Gika, each about a mile from the | | |other; the road to El Obeid from El Obeid | 11 | 94 |El Gika runs parallel to the Abu | | |Haraz-El Obeid road until it joins | | |it about 3 miles from El Obeid. On | | |this road from Sungikai there is | | |very little shade, except at the | | |villages. --------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------

105.—ROUTES IN DAR NUBA—SOUTHERN KORDOFAN.

BY CAPTAIN C. H. LEVESON, 18TH (P.W.) HUSSARS, DECEMBER, 1903-MARCH, 1904.

(i.) Jebel Tendik to Lukka. --------------+--------------------+---------------------------------- | Miles. | Place. +-------------+------+ Description. |Intermediate.|Total.| --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- Tendik | — | — |Large Nuba village of 1,200 | | |people. Most of the village is | | |built in a hollow about 600 feet | | |up the jebel and on a ridge above | | |it. Good water up on the mountain, | | |also good below, where there is a | | |garrison of half company 12th | | |Sudanese. Quiet, peaceable people; | | |much cultivation; sheep and goats, | | |but not many cattle. A big khor | | |runs along E. and S. of jebel, | | |through dense deleib palms. The | | |road runs nearly due S., and | | |crosses the big khor at 2 | | |miles—re-crossing it again almost | | |at once. | | | | — | 5 |A jebel about 30 feet high on W. | | |Cross a ridge and a khor a mile | 1 | 6 |further on. All good going over | | |gravel. | | | | 1 | 7 | | | | | 1 | 8 |Cross another khor, when road runs | | |between parallel ridges of stony | 2¼ | 10¼ |hills for 2¼ miles, when the Khor | | |Sesaban is reached. | | | J. Odam | 1¼ | 11½ |A small hill, 400 feet on right. | | |Cross Khor Ardeib, 8 feet deep. | | | Khor Ardeib | 1½ | 13 | | | | | | |For 5½ miles there is a range of | | |low hills on right of road and for | | |the next 5½ a low range on left of | | |road. | | | | 11 | 24 |Cross a khor. | | | _Khor Nueila_ | 1 | 25 |A mile further on, and the Khor | | |Nueila is reached. The main | | |channel about 15 feet deep and 30 | | |yards wide. Beyond is a swampy | | |track 600 yards across, with pools | | |of water (December, 1903), biggest | | |100 yards long and 3 feet deep. | | |Good clear water. Much game; | | |tracks of lion and leopard. | | |Hartebeeste and wart-hog seen. | | |Elephants live about here in | | |rains. After crossing swamp, track | | |leads up on to higher ground, | | |crossing a small khor, and at 1½ | 1½ | 26½ |miles and further another khor. | | | | 1½ | 28 | | | | | ½ | 28½ |A small hill on right. | | | | ½ | 29 |Cross khor. | | | | ½ | 29½ |A hill on right, cross the Khor Id | | |El Simoa, 6 feet deep, 30 yards | | |wide. | | | | 1¼ | 30¾ |Small hill on right. | | | | 1 | 31¾ |Cross Khor Jogham, 6 feet deep, 20 | | |yards wide. | | | | 1 | 32¾ |Small hill, J. Gelabi, on right. | | | Khor Hash | 3¼ | 36 |A little water still standing in Hashi | | |marshy ground behind main channel, | | |which is 12 yards broad and 10 | | |feet deep. Cross khor, and for 2½ | | |miles there are low hills on left | | |of road. | | | J. Thaba | 4 | 40 |J. Thaba on right of road, cone- | | |shaped hill, with bald, smooth | | |top, about 70 feet. A good | | |landmark. | | | _Khor Um | 3 | 43 |Khor Um Idara, plenty of water Idara_ | | |here now. Tracks of lion. As | | |usual, swarms of guinea fowl. Main | | |channel 20 yards wide, 8 feet | | |deep. | | | | 3½ | 46½ |Khor Um Aleik, shallow, broad, | | |sandy khor. | | | J. Obni | 1¼ | 47¾ |J. Obni, half a mile away on right | | |of road. | | | | ¾ | 48½ |Khor Dabdub—small. | | | J. Doga | ½ | 49 |J. Doga, 1 mile away on right of | | |road—jagged top. | | | J. Lukka | 3¾ | 52¾ |Road curves round to right in a | | |wide sweep and enters valley at | | |foot of mountain. (Described in | | |Kologi-Lukka road.)

(ii.) J. Lukka to J. Errio.

(iii.) Route J. Errio to J. Talodi, _viâ_ Tosi and J. Meselli.

(iv.) J. Errio to J. Talodi, _viâ_ Tira El Akhdar, Tira Mandi and Kindirma (February, 1904).

(v.) J. Talodi to J. Eliri.

(vi.) J. Eliri (Lakolo) to J. El Amira.

(vii.) J. Eliri (Lakolo) to J. Werna.

Lakolo | — | — | | | | | — | ½ |Road runs E., cross khor which | | |runs along right of road. | | | | ½ | 1 |Cross khor. Road runs between low | | |parallel ridges of hills named | | |Lohno. Rough and stony. | | | | 1 | 2 |Road bends sharp to left. | | | _Lohno_ | ½ | 2½ |Village of Lohno, small, | | |population about 200. Very little | | |cultivation, bad water supply. | | |Road now bends to right, crossing | | |rocky ridge. | | | | ½ | 3 |Cross khor, bad going. | | | | ¼ | 3¼ |Cross big deep khor, and turn | | |sharp to right. | | | | ¼ | 3½ |Recross big khor, road turns sharp | | |to left. | | | | ½ | 4 |Cross another khor. | | | | ½ | 4½ |Going becomes better, road runs | | |through forest land. | | | | 3¼ | 7¾ |Cross khor. | | | | ¼ | 8 |Cross khor. | | | | 1 | 9 |Going becomes rough. | | | | 3½ | 12½ |Turns sharp to left to Nuba | | |village of | | | _Tekeim_ | ½ | 13 |Tekeim, small village; population | | |about 400; good water supply; | | |little cultivation, very few | | |cattle, but lots of goats. | | | | 1½ | 14½ |A cross road leads to the Tekeim | | |dura fields. | | | | ½ | 15 |An “agaba.” Camels had to be led | | |up; cross a khor other side of | | |“agaba.” | | | | 1 | 16 |Cross another khor, going becomes | | |better. | | | | 1¾ | 17¾ |Cross a khor, track leaves hills, | | |good going. | | | El Girid | 1¼ | 19 |A cone-shaped peak amongst hills | | |to right known as El Girid, about | | |3 miles off. Bush very open. | | | | 4 | 23 |Bad going, cotton soil begins, a | | |most dreary view. | | | | 4 | 27 |Going better. | | | | 1 | 28 |Small hill ½ mile to right. | | | | 2 | 30 |Low hills ½ mile on left. | | | | 4 | 34 |Cross khor. | | | _Werna_ | 1 | 35 |Enter Werna hills, a group of five | | |or six rocky hills about 300 to | | |400 feet high on smooth open | | |ground. | | | | | |Population about 1,100, mainly | | |revolted slaves of the Khalifa | | |tribe of Hawazma Arabs under | | |Sheikh Abdul Naim. The original | | |population was Nuba, but are now | | |very much in the back ground. The | | |real “Mek” is Abu Gabr Azaz. They | | |have about 40 rifles. | | | | | |Plenty of water and cultivation, | | |few cattle, many goats. People | | |trade to river at Kodok.

(viii.) J. Werna to Lukka, _viâ_ J. Morung, J. Gedir and J. Kologi.

(ix.) J. Talodi to J. Kadugli, _viâ_ Kororak, Um Dorein (in J. Moro), Homra and Sema.

[Footnote 28: Between J. Kon and Taiara there is now a more direct road, _viâ_ Yasin (W. Lloyd, 1903), but water is said to be very scarce (More, 1904).]

[Footnote 29: It is better to go to Bir El Wuz, N. of J. Um Durrag.—H. H. S. M.]

[Footnote 30: There is.—H. H. S. M.]

[Footnote 31: In October 1900 Captain W. Lloyd found several pools of water from 20 to 30 feet in diameter and 4 feet deep; probably rain-water.]

[Footnote 32: There is a more direct road from Dilling to J. Gulfan, 26 miles.]

[Footnote 33: There is an upper road which does not cross Khor Abu Habl at all. Distance by it much the same and it is more practicable in the rains. It passes W. of H. Gad El Kerim.]