Chapter 9 of 14 · 26400 words · ~132 min read

CHAPTER IV.

(EASTERN SUDAN.)

* * * * *

14.—KHARTOUM NORTH TO KASSALA, _viâ_ GEILI, RERA EL SADDA, AND EL SOFEIYA, DIMIAT, ASUBRI.

BY COLONEL HON. M. G. TALBOT (JANUARY, 1900) WITH ADDITIONS BY CAPTAINS BOULNOIS (MARCH, 1900) AND MORANT (JANUARY, 1901).

_General Description._

[Sidenote: Road.]

At this season (January) the going is good throughout, except for the few miles between Um Ukheita and Um Rueishid and the first 5 miles out of Rera eastwards, which portions of the track are very stony. From El Sadda to Asubri there is at present (1900) no track, so the going is not so good as in other parts, but there is no obstacle to camels. The gradients throughout are insignificant. A great portion of the route is over dark arable soil, which must be impassable when wet, so that in autumn this route must be difficult for camels for at any rate a day after heavy rain.

There is plenty of shade up to El Ereigib; after that it is rarely found and is non-existent for considerable stretches.

[Sidenote: Rivers.]

The Atbara bed lies from 100-200 feet below the level of the surrounding plains. On either side it is bordered by 2 to 4 miles of broken ground covered with scattered bush, through which the track proceeds by easy gradients. As a rule it is unfordable at Asubri from end of June to middle of October. During these months travellers cross by the boat ferry at Suweihil some 5 miles further south.

The Gash is liable to be unfordable for several days together during the flood season which lasts during July, August and September.

[Sidenote: Supplies.]

A good deal of dura is grown near the track and some might be obtainable at the right time of year. Sheep and milk can be got at many places. Firewood is to be found everywhere up to El Giseima (66 miles), after that it is very scarce till the Atbara is reached.

[Sidenote: Water.]

As tanks are very numerous, water must be very plentiful in autumn and early winter.

The wells about El Ereigib are very deep; that at Wad Abu Saleh was found to be roughly 250 feet.

There are still many wells that require digging out and tanks that want repair. Water was of good quality throughout, and all the wells visited had an ample supply.

[Sidenote: Inhabitants.]

The village of Um Dibban and all the country as far as Wad Abu Saleh used to be under El Taib Abd El Salem, the Sheikh of El Soba. Owing to their having joined the Mahdi, the Sheikh of El Obeid family have risen in importance and acquired a certain jurisdiction over the country east of Um Dibban.

A few Batahin were met with as far as El Giseima, after that practically all were Shukria or those living with that tribe, as far as the left bank of the Atbara.

[Sidenote: Grazing.]

There is excellent tree grazing as far as El Giseima, and after that the supply of grass is so great that one can understand how the enormous flocks and herds subsisted, that the Shukria claim to have possessed in their palmy days.

The grass seen was never more than 3 feet high. It is not burnt.

[Sidenote: Cultivation.]

An immense area is capable of growing good crops of dura if the rains are favourable.

[Sidenote: Game.]

There is practically nothing to shoot at this season (January) between the Blue Nile and a few miles of the Atbara.

--------------+--------------------+---------------------------------- | Miles. | Place. +-------------+------+ Description. |Intermediate.|Total.| --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- Khartoum North| — | — |Starting E. from the Artillery | | |Lines at Khartoum N., a well | | |marked track is soon struck, which | | |continues up the Blue Nile cutting | | |off corners where it bends. It | | |passes the village of Kuku (whence | | |a track leads to Sheikh El Amin | | |and afterwards rejoins this | | |route), the two villages of | | |Gereif, where there is some | | |cultivation, and at about 12 miles | | |the village of Um Dom. At about 19 | | |miles, after passing some low | | |mounds covered with frequent | | |fragments of stone and brick, said _Old Soba_ | 19 | 19 |to be the remains of Old Soba, the | | |road bifurcates and the branch to | | |the left is taken, a clearly | | |marked track. For the first few | | |miles the path passes through | | |thinly scattered trees, which | | |gradually get thicker, till at 23 | | |miles they restrict the view in | | |any direction to 200 or 300 yards. | | |At 25½ miles a well is passed on | | |the right of the road, and at 27 _Um Dibban_ | 8 | 27 |miles Um Dibban is reached. This | | |is a scattered but well-built mud | | |village on perfectly flat ground, | | |from which all vegetation has been | | |removed for a radius of 1,000 to | | |1,500 yards. | | | | | |It was formed by a holy man named | | |Sheikh El Obeid, who established a | | |school and caused a tank to be | | |dug. His descendants still live | | |there and keep up the school, but | | |they now have hankerings after | | |temporal power. | | | | | |The Sheikh El Obeid family and | | |followers were early and fanatical | | |adherents of the Mahdi, and it was | | |in attempting to surprise them | | |that Mohammed Ali Pasha and his | | |forces were cut to pieces in 1884. | | | | | |There are two wells about 112 feet | | |deep, one inside, and the other | | |200 yards W. of the S.W. corner of | | |village. | | | | | |The inhabitants belong to various | | |tribes; many have land on the Blue | | |Nile, and some cultivate land to | | |the E. | | | | | |The road starts slightly N. of E., | | |and generally traverses a thin | | |forest of thorny trees, not thick | | |enough really to impede troops, | | |but necessitating a little dodging | | |here and there. At 4¼ miles it _Wad Badrub_ | 4¼ | 31¼ |passes Wad Badrub, a well, said to (Wad Agid) | | |be 140 feet deep, belonging to Um | | |Dibban. About 200 yards further | | |on, and again after 4 more miles, | | |dry tanks were passed. | | | | | |The track maintains a general | | |direction of a little N. of E., | | |but constantly makes considerable | | |changes for short distances. | | | _Wad Hedeibab_| 7¾ | 39 |Well. | | | _Um Sideira_ | 7 | 46 |Well. | | | | 4 | 50 |A dry tank in the Elwan district | | |is passed. There is said to be a | | |well of the same name 2 miles to | | |the S.E. This district originally | | |belonged to the Shukria, but is | | |now occupied by the Batahin. | | | | | |The country soon becomes more open | | |and a considerable extent, perhaps | | |600 or more feddans of dura, | | |cultivated by the Batahin was | | |passed. | | | _El Ereigib_ | 5 | 55 |There are some wells (which were | | |out of repair; January 1901) and | | |several dry tanks, and one with | | |water about 1 mile N.E. Plenty of | | |fair sized trees. | | | | | |A small number of Mesellemia | | |Arabs, Sheikh Mahi, were there. | | |They were originally under the | | |Shukria, but during the Mahdia | | |came under Sheikh El Obeid. | | | | | |Another rather shorter route is | | |from Khartoum N. to El Ereigib, | | |viâ Babekr (11½ miles), good well, | | |thence passing two lots of salt | | |works to the village of _El | | |Melaha_ (13 miles), large tank, | | |plenty of water (January, 1901), | | |thence to a second village of _El | | |Melaha_ (2½ miles), salt well, | | |thence to a deep but good _well at | | |Elwan_ (22½ miles), and total | | |distance to El Ereigib (4 miles) | | |is 53½ miles. | | | | | |The country soon becomes more | | |open, several tanks are passed. At | | |3 miles Wad Abu Saleh, good well | | |250 feet deep, marked by some | | |small but well built mud houses in | | |good preservation, said to belong | | |to the Sheikh of El Soba. About ¾ | | |mile to the left is a tank, said | | |to hold the largest supply of | | |water in the neighbourhood. The | | |country now becomes more and more | | |bare of trees, and more ground fit | | |for cultivation is seen. At 6½ | | |miles some Batahin crops are Wadi Sereria | 6½ | 6½ |passed, and the Wadi Sereria | | |flowing S. is crossed. A well | | |belonging to the Mesellemia is | | |said to be close at hand on left. | | |At 8 miles a track from Shendi viâ | | |Wad Hassuna to Rufaa is crossed. | | |No water along it except tanks. | | | _El | 4½ | 66 |A tank about 100 feet in diameter Giseima_[10] | | |on rather high ground surrounded | | |by a few trees, 2 feet of water in | | |it, Hamla 4½ hours. From this on, | | |no trees are seen till Rera is | | |reached, except where belts of | | |“kittr” bushes mark the lines of | | |Wadis or a small clump of thorn | | |trees shows the position of a | | |tank; firewood should be provided | | |for. | | | | | |The absence of trees enables one | | |to see far over the wide plains, | | |mostly of arable soil and covered | | |at this season with dry “Mahareib” | | |and “Hamra” grass. At 4 miles, an | | |unusually pronounced drainage line | | |said to come from Abu Deleig is | | |crossed. The upper part is called Wadi Abu Sueid| 4 | 70 |Wadi Abu Sueid and the lower Wadi | | |Hasit, said to be much cultivation | | |along it, but none was seen. | | |Thence across a gravelly plateau | | |from which 4 miles further on | | |Geili hill can be seen. At 76th | | |mile road descends short slope to Astaneit | 6 | 76 |Astaneit tank, dry, no wood, | | |water, nor good grazing. | | | | | |From here on to Geili, the road | | |generally makes for the hill. The | | |main track probably avoids | | |Astaneit tank, leaving it to the | | |right. At 80th mile the Khor Khor Dengalia | 4 | 80 |Dengalia; at 84th mile the Wadi | | |Nail, and half mile further on the Wadi Nail | 4 | 84 |Wadi Ankia are crossed, all | | |flowing south. 5½ miles further on Wadi Ankia | ½ | 84½ |the N. end of the Geili hill was | | |reached. The best place to halt is _Geili_ | 6 | 90½ |½ mile further on at the S.E. end, | | |where a huge fallen boulder | | |affords good shade for two or | | |three persons. It has an ancient | | |carving in Egyptian style on the | | |side nearest the hill. | | | | | |J. Geili is a granite outcrop | | |about 250 feet high, rising out of | | |a gentle elevation in the plain. | | |On E. and S. are some low knolls | | |enclosing a small open space, in | | |which the wells now most used are | | |situated. There are said to be | | |about thirty wells round the hill, | | |varying in depth from 50 to 100 | | |feet, yielding an unfailing supply | | |of water; some grass near but no | | |firewood. The only path up the | | |hill is from the N., and even | | |there nailed boots must be taken | | |off. | | | | | |From the summit a good view is | | |obtained. Near the top on some | | |level ground is a place shown as | | |the tomb of the “Bint El Mek,” the | | |daughter of one of the Fung Kings, | | |who married Sheikh El Din one of | | |the early Shukria Sheikhs. | | | | | |From Geili there are two roads to | | |Um Rueishid, one of which viâ J. | | |El Daein makes a considerable | | |detour. It starts on a bearing of | | |about 66° from true N. straight | | |for J. El Daein, passing over good | | |soil nearly all the way, several | | |hundred feddans of which appear to | | |have been cultivated (1901). The | | |ground is much cracked and off the | | |path, the going is bad. | | | J. El Daein | 22 | 112½ |Two small hills of which the | | |southern is the higher. There is a | | |tank, now dry, at its foot on W. | | |side, Hamla took 8 hours, going | | |well. | | | Um Ukheita | 14½ | 127 |The track now turns slightly S. of | | |E. and continues over good soil | | |rather bare of grass to Um | | |Ukheita, a tank now dry, on a | | |slight stony rise. Hamla about 5 | | |hours. From here on to Um Rueishid | | |the ground is covered with angular | | |stones, and the going very bad. | | |Camels have to walk. At 2½ miles | | |J. Rera is seen to the S.E., and | | |the track makes fairly straight | | |for it, leaving on the right the | | |group of small hills known as El | | |Nawasla. At 6¼ miles the track | | |descends a gentle slope, and bends | | |up to the N. to the well of Um | | |Rueishid. | | | | | |The more direct road, which would | | |appear to be the best in every | | |way, runs nearly due E. over a | | |“Nal” grass covered plain devoid | | |of bush, therefore also of shade | | |and firewood, to Sofeiya El Wata | | |(23 miles) a large tank (dry | | |January, 1901), where there is | | |excellent shade for a small party. | | |From here to Um Rueishid (20 | | |miles), track traverses similar | | |country, though it is occasionally | | |stony. J. Um Betikh is passed to | | |the S. of the track. | | | _Um Rueishid_ | 8¼ | 135¼ |This well is said to be 30 or 35 | | |feet deep. It is situated on bare | | |stony ground. A dry tank lies ½ | | |mile to the S. There are a few | | |small thorn bushes S. of well, but | | |there is very little shade and | | |little grazing, and it is | | |altogether rather an unpleasant | | |halting place. | | | | | |From Um Rueishid there is a track | | |viâ El Sofeiya and Dimiat to | | |Asubri. It seems the most direct | | |line possible, _vide_ description | | |below. | | | | | |The route followed after about 1 | | |mile of stony plain strikes a well | | |marked track on good cultivable | | |soil, and makes straight for J. | | |Rera. | | | | | |At 1½ miles it crosses the Wadi | | |Jerraba flowing S., and 6 miles W. | | |Rahad, and at 11 miles the W. | | |Kanan flowing N. All are flat | | |depressions with cracked soil and | | |marked by lines of “kittr” bushes. | | |Parts of their courses are | | |cultivated. At 18 miles, track | | |enters ground strewn with quartz | | |pebbles, and covered with grass | | |which continues as far as Rera. | | | _Rera_ | 22¼ | 157½ |Hamla 9½ hours. The Rera hills | | |consist of three rocky ridges | | |almost in line, running E. and W. | | |and some low subsidiary elevation; | | |S. of the centre ridge is a well | | |and a dry water hole. Immediately | | |to the S. of the W. end of the | | |eastern and highest ridge are more | | |wells now in use. On the N. side | | |of the short and low pass that | | |leads to these wells from the N. | | |is a deep dry tank. Before the | | |Mahdia immense flocks and herds | | |used to water here. In the eastern | | |and highest ridge are several rock | | |tanks containing water. | | | | | |From Rera a road goes viâ Dimiat | | |to Asubri. It is more direct and | | |better marked than the one | | |followed, but was not taken as the | | |rock tanks at Dimiat were said to | | |be dry (January, 1900). The | | |eastern ridge is not difficult to | | |ascend and commands a good view. | | |The natives say J. Kassala can be | | |seen from it on a fine day during | | |the rains. Variation of prismatic | | |compass about 3½° W. | | | | | |There is no marked track for the | | |first 5 miles towards El Sadda, | | |and the going is bad over pebbles | | |and through long grass. | | | | | |After that a well marked track is | | |reached, which continues the rest | | |of the way. | | | Wadi Atiam | 7 | 154½ |At 7 miles, the Wadi Atiam is | | |passed flowing N. It goes to El | | |Sofeiya, and as far again beyond | | |it dies away. Much cultivation | | |along it. From 7 to 9½ miles the | | |road is rather bad and stony till | | |it has passed the Atash hills by a | | |short and easy gap, and enters an | | |open plain which extends to El | | |Sadda. | | | | | |Several tanks are passed on the | | |right, known as El Farsh. Hamla 9½ | | |hours. | | | _El Sadda_ | 25½ | 180 |There are several wells here about | | |½ mile W. of S. end of J. El | | |Sadda, a low ridge running N. and | | |S. The one well visited was said | | |to be 70 to 80 feet deep. Plenty | | |of grass, but no trees nor | | |firewood. On the N. and W. of the | | |hill and close to its foot are a | | |number of circular stone mounds | | |neatly built, which appear to be | | |tumuli, and probably date from a | | |time anterior to the present | | |inhabitants. The two biggest are | | |immediately under the highest | | |point. From here to the Atbara | | |there is no track and no water. | | |Bushes mark the drainage lines, | | |otherwise the plains are bare of | | |all but grass. Much of the ground | | |is cracked and consequently bad | | |going. The route followed | | |eventually struck the well marked | | |track made by the Dervishes from | | |Dimiat, and kept along it to | | |Asubri. At 2½ miles from Asubri | | |the main road along the left bank | | |of the Atbara is crossed. Soon | | |after, the track descends into the | | |broken ground which fringes both | | |banks of the Atbara to a width of | | |2 or more miles. The actual banks | | |at Asubri are 15 to 20 feet high | | |and 300 yards apart. Crocodiles | | |are plentiful. The ford in | | |January, 1901 was 120 yards long | | |and 2½ feet deep. | | | _Asubri_ (R. | 57 | 237 |Hamla took 19 hours from El Sadda. Atbara) | | |A nice shady camp on right bank | | |for a very small party. Mosquitos | | |few, but particularly poisonous. | | | | | |Asubri is the name of a strip of | | |land extending for some miles | | |along both banks of the Atbara. On | | |the left bank, near the ford, is | | |an old cemetery, and ½ mile S. is | | |a building formerly occupied by | | |Abdel Rahim Wad Abu Dugal, the | | |Dervish Emir in command of their | | |post here in 1897 and early in | | |1898. | | | | | |On leaving camp, the track winds | | |in and out of khors and up gentle | | |slopes through bushes, till at 2 | | |or 3 miles it emerges on to the | | |plain, which is of good soil | | |covered with scattered bush. The | | |general direction is straight for | | |J. Kassala. | | | | | |At about 6 miles the track from | | |Suweihil joins in on the right, | | |and from this on, the road is well | | |marked. Many ariel and gazelle, | | |and a few ostriches seen. | | | Um Siteiba | 21 | 258 |At 21 miles, Um Siteiba, commonly | | |called half way is passed. Here is | | |a large natural pond for about 4 | | |months in the rains, but now dry. | | |Serut fly bad when there is water | | |here. | | | | | |About 6 miles from Kassala, the | | |track turns N.E. and traverses | | |more thickly wooded country, till | | |it reaches the bed of the Gash, | | |now dry, some 700 yards wide, | | |immediately beyond which lies the | | |old town of Kassala. | | | Kassala | 17 | 275 |The old name, Taka, may now be | | |regarded as obsolete. The former | | |town is a complete ruin, of which | | |nothing remains except the | | |circular bastions. The new town | | |has been built close by the S.E. | | |and consists largely of Tukls. The | | |Fort, built by the Italians, is | | |just E. of the N. end of the old | | |town. | | | | | |Telegraph lines from Suakin, | | |Massawa, and Khartoum viâ Gedaref | | |meet here.

UM RUEISHID _viâ_ SOFEIYA TO ASUBRI.

15.—GOZ REGEB TO SHENDI _viâ_ ABU DELEIG.

BY CAPTAIN W. A. BOULNOIS, APRIL, 1900.

[Sidenote: General Remarks. Road.]

From Goz Regeb, a ruined town of mud houses almost entirely deserted to Sheg el Walia, there is no track, and the country is bare till within 30 miles of Sheg. Hence to Geleita there is a badly defined track and none from Geleita to Abu Deleig. From the latter to Shendi the track is well defined most of the way, and there seems to be a considerable amount of traffic; parties bringing dura from Rufaa to Shendi, and one party from Metemma with goods to sell in Abu Deleig market were met.

The track disappears 10 miles short of Shendi.

The going is good at this time of year all the way; wherever tracts of strong rich soil and wadis are crossed, and there are many, it would be impracticable in the wet season at times.

From Abu Deleig to Shendi the going is good enough, probably all the year round, but many deepish khors would form serious obstacles in the rains.

The Atbara was 2½ feet deep, and 60 yards wide.

[Sidenote: Supplies.]

A fair amount of dura is grown near Sheg and Geleita. It was easily obtainable there in small quantities.

A great deal is grown in Hawad, a very fertile district, and also a certain amount in Abu Deleig in good years, but it all depends on the rainfall. Very little from Abu Deleig to Shendi.

[Sidenote: Wood.]

Firewood is not to be obtained between Goz Regeb and within 10 miles of Abu Deleig; plenty elsewhere.

[Sidenote: Water.]

None from Goz Regeb to Sheg, about 65 miles.

Tanks very numerous near and in Hawad.

Water only obtainable at Ladda, between Abu Deleig and Shendi; but there are numerous tanks, though all dry at this time.

Water is of good quality, especially at Abu Deleig.

[Sidenote: Inhabitants.]

From Goz Regeb to Hawad, Shukria; round Abu Deleig, Batahin; at Ladda, Ababda and Hassania.

[Sidenote: Grazing.]

Very good grazing from Sheg to Shendi.

[Sidenote: Cultivation.]

Large tracts and areas capable of growing good crops of dura if rains favourable.

[Sidenote: Game.]

Nothing to shoot between Atbara and the Nile at this time of the year.

16.—EL DAMER TO FASHER (ATBARA).

BY MAJOR BULKELEY JOHNSON, SCOTS GREYS, OCTOBER, 1901.

[Sidenote: General Remarks. Road.]

From El Damer to Goz Regeb the road is stony and sandy, with open desert or open bush. Going: good for horses in open formation but slightly heavy; for artillery, heavy, with a strain on the horses the whole journey. I should suggest some form of detachable broad sand tyre to prevent sinking of the wheels, as suggested in Journal of Artillery Institute, of, I think, September, 1901.

From Goz Regeb to Sofi the road is a single track through long grass on a high plateau, 2 or 3 miles from river, which is difficult of access owing to broken ground gradually sloping to river, which is cut up by innumerable khors, water courses, and bush.

The going over the single track is good for horses, but bad for guns, as both horses and wheels must go through the long grass, and horses’ feet are continually slipping inwards as the track is narrow and generally deep. At times, as between Sofi and Mogatta, the path is completely lost and overgrown with kittr—bad enough for single horses, but still worse for pairs or led horses; the gun horses on two occasions coming in red with blood from shoulders down. I would suggest outside blinkers for gun horses in bush to protect the eyes from thorns.

[Sidenote: Water.]

During first portion of road, El Damer to Goz Regeb, the river is difficult of access owing to thick bush and high banks, except in recognized meshras, often far apart. Water very good; camps good and shady.

On second portion, Goz Regeb to Fasher, river often 3 miles away, and very difficult of access. Meshras very few owing to broken ground, thick bush, and deep khors running in every direction; camps fair and shady.

[Sidenote: Grasses.]

On Atbara up to Goz Regeb, halfa grass is plentiful along the banks. After El Fasher plenty of green abu rokba, abu arid, and neghil, by far the best being abu arid, which, green or dry, is always taken by the natives in preference to any other for horses and cattle. Naal is apparently no use as food, but adaa or false dura is better than nothing.

--------------+--------------------+---------------------------------- | Miles. | Place. +-------------+------+ Description. |Intermediate.|Total.| --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- El Damer | — | — | | | | El Basli | 14 | 14 |Road across stony desert. Small | | |village, 150-200 inhabitants, | | |about 4 miles S. of Abadar Meshra. | | |Dom fringe, ½ mile broad; outside | | |this, stony desert. Two roads—one | | |through doms, the other outside— | | |single track over stones. | | | | | |From El Busli. | | | | | |Outside road taken. | | | | ¾ | 14¾ |Meshra Umdebia. | | | Amerab | 3¾ | 18½ |Amerab village, ½ mile from river; | | |50 grass tukls, two mud houses. | 2 | 20½ |Big house standing alone. Sheikh | | |Omar. | | | Minawi | 1¼ | 21¾ |Meshra very good. | | | Goz El Halag | 4 | 25¾ |Opposite to Goz El Halag (meshra) | | |a few tukls. Road still 2 miles | | |from river. Country changes. Soil | | |becomes loamy, with some sand and | | |scattered bush. River bank lined | | |with doms. | | | Girsi | 5¼ | 31 |Village. Cultivation by sagias; | | |big meshra 2 miles north. Road | | |shortly goes through dura (rain | | |crops), therefore patrol skirted | | |outside this. Country as before; | | |open bush, mostly tundub; no road. | | | Debbet Bush | 3 | 34 |Opposite to big village Debbet. | | |Bush W. of outer road; about 2 | | |miles from river. Water from 2 | | |wells. | | | Burush | 4 | 38 |Opposite to; a few tukls, meshra. | | | Abaka | 3 | 41 |Ditto. | | | Helal | 7 | 48 |Ditto, meshra. Cultivation, and a | | |few tukls fairly close; bush mixed | | |with doms, about 1 mile broad from | | |river. | | | Shigil | 2 | 50 |Meshra. Cultivation on and near | | |river. Meshra in a small pool, | | |nearly dry (Oct. 16th). Island, ½ | | |mile long; plenty of neghil grass. | | |Village of Shigil, about 20 tukls; | 1 | 51 |½ mile from river in bush. | | | Garada | 1 | 52 |Meshra. Road enters dura 1½ miles | | |from river; narrow path through | | |thickets. | | | Marzuga | 2 | 54 |Meshra. | | | | 5 | 59 |Bush ends. Road enters open sandy | | |desert which stretches down to | | |river, on banks of which fringe of | | |doms, ½-1 mile wide. | | | El Rimta | 3½ | 62½ |Arab encampment. (No meshra.) Road | | |close to river. Road runs along | | |river bank through doms and | | |cultivation for ½ mile, then open | | |sandy desert with sunt and tundub | | |right down to bank; sand hills. | | | _El Awadi_ | 3½ | 66 |Meshra (very good). Good shade for | | |camp. Heavy going for guns. No | | |road. | | | | 10 | 76 |_Good meshra_. No signs of | | |cultivation. | | | _Adarama_ | 4 | 80 |Meshra opposite Adarama. | | | | 3 | 83 |Ferry for Adarama. A fringe of | | |bush, about 1 mile broad, along | | |river; outside this, open flat | | |desert with a few tundub bushes. | | |Road at times 2 miles from river, | | |across bends, and approaches it at | | |mile 97. | | | | 14 | 97 |_Meshra_, very good (rocky bed); | | |shady camp. Fringe of bush | | |impenetrable (except at meshras) | | |along bank, about 10 yards broad. | | |This continues for a long | | |distance. Road close to river. | | | _Amiam_ | 10 | 107 |Meshra, by small khor; sandy bank, | | |¼ mile broad; no inhabitants; | | |going, sandy and bad. | | | _Taroma_ | 6 | 113 |Meshra. Bisharin tukl village; | | |about 30 people; flocks; | 4 | 117 |cultivation of dukhn on sandy | | |banks. Meshra, good; dukhn on | | |sandy banks. No signs of | | |inhabitants. | | | | 11 | 128 |No meshra, but able to get down to | | |river by group of doms; sandy | | |banks, not much grass (halfa). | | |Road goes away from river to cut | | |off bend. | | | | 5½ | 133½ |Road divides: right hand to Goz | | |Regeb direct, left keeping near | | |river. Followed left; going | | |becomes worse, with small khors | | |when near river. | | | Auli | 2½ | 136 |Arab encampment. Meshra. | | | | 6 | 142 |Very _good meshra_; open space on | | |bank. Fine view of river part of | | |Auli. No grass. | | | | 2 | 144 |_Meshra_. Arab encampment; dukhn, | | |plenty of halfa grass. End of | | |Bisharin tribe. | | | | 3 | 147 |Arab encampment. Arteiga branch of | | |Hadendioa. Great quantities of | | |sheep, cattle and camels. | | | | | |G. Tukwe on west, J. Ofreik on | | |east, just visible from here. | | | | | |Succession of small meshras and | | |encampments. | | | | 4 | 151 |_Meshra_. | | | | 2 | 153 |_Meshra_. | | | | 1 | 154 |Cemetery; stony ground. | | | | 3 | 157 |Path debouches into open alluvial | | |plain (short grass and tundub | | |bushes) cutting off bend. | | | | 5 | 162 |Approach river, near which country | | |is broken and stony. _Meshra bad_; | | |no grass except a little abu rokba | | |(slightly bitter taste when green, | | |and of which some horses will not | | |eat at first until accustomed). | | |Flocks and cattle. Road from 148th | | |mile close to river, over very | | |rough, broken, stony ground, and | | |at times thick bush. Several small | | |meshras. Goz Regeb’s two hills | | |visible for first time. | | | Saraf | 6 | 168 |Arab encampment; _meshra_. | | | _Goz Regeb_ | 12 | 180 |Meshra—1 mile short of it—under | | |palms. Camp (bad), 2 miles further | | |on, at ferry. Camel post opposite; | | |grass, halfa. | | | | | |This road makes Goz Regeb 100 | | |miles from Adarama. | | | | | |From Goz Regeb the road proceeds | | |at about 3 miles from river on a | | |flat table land, as the ground | | |between it and the river is rocky | | |and broken by innumerable small | | |water courses and khors called by | | |natives “karrab.” The going is | | |over alluvial soil, rather heavy. | | |A single track with naal grass on | | |either side. | | | | | |Distances are given exclusive of | | |detours down to meshras. | | | _Gebuib_ | 18 | 198 |Meshra, very good. Good camping | | |ground; halfa grass. No | | |inhabitants. | | | | 10 | 208 |To _meshra_, about 3 miles. | | | | 6 | 214 |Ditto. | | | _Umraho_ | 4 | 218 |Ditto. Very good meshra; deep | | |khors on either side. Bend in | | |river to east; ford (27th Oct. | | |1901). Country near meshra very | | |broken and rough. On turning down | | |this meshra the tops of two small | | |hills are visible on right front. | | |From here road about 3 miles from | | |river; going gets harder when | | |nearing Asubri. | | | | 8 | 226 |In line between the two hills and | | |Kassala hill. | | | | 10 | 236 |To _meshra_. | | | Omara | 1 | 237 |Small village, about ½ mile E. of | | |road. | | | | 3 | 240 |To _meshra_, good. E. 3 miles to | | |river. Fair camp; abu rokba, but | | |no halfa grass. | | | | 3 | 243 |To Asubri. The road here divides | | |at right angles: left to Asubri, | | |right direct to El Fasher, | | |described as about 30 miles and | | |track far from river. Therefore | | |took river road—very bad. | | | _Asubri_ | 3 | 246 |Asubri. From here road goes about | | |1 mile from river and becomes very | | |good and hard. Country open with | | |trees and short grass. After 10 | | |miles becomes “Karrab” (ground | | |broken by small water courses) | | |again. | | | | 12 | 258 |A _meshra_. Hundreds of camels, | | |thousands of sheep and goats | | |belonging to Lahawin Arabs. Good | | |meshra. Bad camp; no grass. | | | | 13 | 271 |El Fasher District. Country | | |changes to park-like land—short | | |grass dotted with trees. | | | El Fasher | 2 | 273 |El Fasher village and fort. Water | | |from ford. | | | Ford | 4 | 277 |Ford; good meshra and camp. Last ½ | | |mile “karrab”; Abu Rokba grass. --------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------

17.—KHARTOUM NORTH TO ABU DELEIG.

COMPILED IN INTELLIGENCE OFFICE, KHARTOUM.

18.—RUFAA TO GEILI.

BY COLONEL HON. M. G. TALBOT, JANUARY, 1903.

There are at least three roads.

The western goes by Abu, or El, Gassas, a district apparently included in another called Rotamat (I am not sure of this). Last water at Abu Gassas. It afterwards passes some cultivation, but no water except in autumn.

The eastern goes by Tundub and Wad Arrak, where last water is, and joins the middle road about 10 miles from Geili.

The middle one was followed, and is described below.

No real road to begin with, simply tracks from village to village. For the first 9 miles, as far as the village of Kemeilab, through cultivation all the way. Several villages on either side of road. Then through thin laot bush, but plenty of cultivation round about.

----------+---------------+---------------+--------------------------- | Hours. | Miles. | Place. +--------+------+--------+------+ Description. | Inter- |Total.| Inter- |Total.| |mediate.| |mediate.| | ----------+--------+------+--------+------+--------------------------- Rufaa | — | — | — | — |Track is good all the way; | | | | |no steep gradients, | | | | |difficult khors, nor thick | | | | |bush. Probably bad after | | | | |rain. | | | | | _Tunbul El| 4 | 4 | 12 | 12 |Good sized village of Jaalin_ | | | | |Jaalin, with well. There | | | | |are two other villages | | | | |close by called Tunbul El | | | | |Agada and Tunbul El Eishab. | | | | |Cultivation all the way; | | | | |many villages seen. | | | | | _Abu Zeid,| 3 | 7 | 9 | 21 |A poor village. Well 250 Wad Um | | | | |yards S.E.; village of Balli_ | | | | |Musaiab close by to N. | | | | |Track continues mostly | | | | |through thin low laot bush, | | | | |but some cultivation is | | | | |passed. Some villages lie | | | | |on right, but are not | | | | |conspicuous. Passes village | | | | |of Um Hageir. | | | | | _Um | 2¾ | 9¾ | 8 | 29 |Thin straggling village; Shinshin, | | | | |well, on road; last water or Um | | | | |on road. On through low Shinashin_| | | | |laot and grass, with very | | | | |little cultivation, passing | | | | |the small village of El | | | | |Gura; no well; last village | | | | |on road. | | | | | Um Ganatir| — | — | 5 | 34 |Tank, a boundary point of | | | | |Rufaa District, used to be | | | | |a man’s depth, but now | | | | |nearly filled up. | | | | | Mufad Wad | — | — | 7 | 41 |Tank. Dereid | | | | | | | | | | | 4½ | 14¼ | 1 | 42 |Road crosses a belt of laot | | | | |giving good firewood; no | | | | |more for two hours, though | | | | |there are belts of kittr a | | | | |mile or two on each side. | | | | |Geili just visible 29½° | | | | |(true). Jebel Lebaitor just | | | | |visible in early morning to | | | | |S. On over grassy plain, | | | | |apparently rising. | | | | |Direction of road some | | | | |degrees E. of Geili. | | | | | Wadi Mofad| 2¼ | 16½ | 6½ | 48½ |Marked by a belt of thin | | | | |kittr some 250 yards wide. | | | | |Must be boggy after rain. | | | | |Two tanks on each side of | | | | |wadi. The place is called | | | | |something like Rufa Wa | | | | |Fagusa, Rufa applying to | | | | |one pair of tanks and | | | | |Fagusa to the other, but I | | | | |am not sure of the names, | | | | |nor which applies to which. | | | | | | | | | |The Wadi Mofad, I was | | | | |assured, rises near Abu | | | | |Deleig, and flows S. The | | | | |wadis of Bahogi and Ankia | | | | |passed on the Um | | | | |Dibban—Geili road form part | | | | |of it. | | | | | | | | | |E. of the wadi the Tundub | | | | |road joins in, and the | | | | |united road makes straight | | | | |for Jebel Geili. | | | | | | 2¼ | 18¾ | 6½ | 55 |Road crosses a branch of | | | | |Wadi Mofad coming from the | | | | |E. of Jebel Geili. Some | | | | |kittr and other trees. | | | | |Track begins to get stony, | | | | |particularly as Jebel Geili | | | | |is neared. | | | | | _J. Geili_| 2¼ | 21 | 6½ | 61½ |Wells at S. end of Jebel | | | | |Geili close to the carved | | | | |rock. ----------+--------+------+--------+------+---------------------------

19.—GEDAREF TO KASSALA.

BY LIEUT.-COL. MITFORD (1899) AND CAPTAIN H. H. MORANT (1900).

The direct and more generally used road to Mogatta starts from Gedaref in a nearly northerly direction, and leaves J. Buadra about 1¼ miles to the right, and the scene of the battle of Gedaref ¼ of a mile on the left hand. After passing through much cultivation and high grass, the filthy village of Wad Gabu on the top of a small hill is reached. The water supply of this village is from a well some 2½ or 3 miles to the W. or S.W., and animals have to be sent there, as very little water is obtainable at the village itself. There is a rest house here.

J. Kassamon is visible nearly due N. About 2¼ miles further on the telegraph line and an alternative route from Gedaref, _viâ_ Seraf El Buadra and Bir Rowajda, which is generally dry, joins in.

From here to R. Atbara, at Mogatta, there is no water, and the country is most uninteresting. In the rains the scrub and scattered bush is almost concealed by high grass; this is burnt in the dry season, and the country then is bare black cotton soil, and devoid of any grazing for animals. About 12 miles from the river dense bush, chiefly kittr, begins, and continues until the halting place at Mogatta is reached. This road is nearly 20 miles shorter than that _viâ_ Sofi.

--------------+--------------------+---------------------------------- | Miles. | Place. +-------------+------+ Description. |Intermediate.|Total.| --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- Gedaref | — | — |The track to Sofi leaves Gedaref | | |in a N.E. direction, passing down | | |a valley between gardens, | | |cultivation and high grass; | | |several hamlets half a mile | | |distant on either side of road. A | | |gentle ascent on N. side of valley | | |to N.E. corner of a low flat hill | | |called J. Buadra. | | | _Khor Seraf El| 3 | 3 |This khor crosses the path near Buadra_ | | |corner of J. Buadra. One well, | | |upper portion stone faced; 24 feet | | |deep, 5 feet diameter, 4 feet of | | |water. Two similar wells near | | |track, one ½ a mile, the other 1 | | |mile further on. From this point | | |track is a single camel path, | | |winding among high grass or | | |through bush; in places very | | |stony. Ground on either flank | | |cracked cotton soil. | | | | 2 | 5 |Top of pass is reached; the small | | |hamlets of Um Shedra, Hissainad, | | |and Turfur are seen in succession | | |on the left hand of the track. | | | | 2½ | 7½ |A rise in the ground known as | | |Gumerab is reached. On far side of | | |it track descends sharply for 40 | | |feet, over rocks and stones on to | | |a plain. General direction E. by | | |N. Some dukhn or dura patches; | | |rest of the ground covered with | | |high aada and shush grass. 5 feet | | |high. | | | | 4¼ | 11¾ |A copse of talh trees is passed | | |through. For the next 5 miles are | | |scattered trees along the path, | | |with copses of hashab trees a few | | |hundred yards to a mile on either | | |side; shush, aada, naal and | | |Umdenaib grasses. | | | | 4¾ | 16½ |A shallow excavation to catch | | |rain-water is seen on left, 100 | | |yards off. General direction | | |E.N.E. At the 24th and 27th miles, | | |two more small rain-water | | |reservoirs are passed. | | | Khor Bitnasr | 15½ | 32 |This khor is here crossed; it | | |trends northwards and runs into | | |the Khor Tomat. Ground now ascends | | |slightly and is more broken, and | | |track crosses several small khors. | | |At the 34th mile the edge of the | | |plateau is reached, and a sharp | | |descent of 90 feet ensues. | | | _Sofi_ (Rest | 3 | 35 |A straggling village of a hundred house) | | |men (Jaalin) on spurs running down | | |to the Atbara 400 yards away. At | | |date the river is easily fordable, | | |the water not being knee deep and | | |20 yards broad near the village. | | |From this point the track as far | | |as El Fasher follows the course of | | |the river on the left bank, and | | |distant from it 1 to 5 miles. The | | |bush and jungle prevent approach | | |from the track, except at the | | |watering places in use. From Sofi | | |the track winds up to the plateau | | |in a N.W. direction along and in | | |khors. On reaching this plateau, | | |after a mile, the track bears | | |generally due N. Quarter of a mile | | |of dura cultivation is passed | | |through, then the path runs along | | |the flat top of a watershed | | |draining into the Atbara on the | | |right, and into the Khor Tomat on | | |the left. | | | | | |One and a half miles E. of the | | |Atbara the Setit runs parallel | | |with the river and the khor until | | |its junction with the former. | | |Going is now very bad, kittr, | | |laot, talh and sant close to the | | |path; cracked cotton soil. At the | | |43rd mile the track descends with | | |twists and turns towards the | | |river, and just before reaching | | |Khor Tomat some salt workings are | | |passed through. | | | _Khor Tomat_ | 9½ | 44½ |The khor near its junction with (Rest house) | | |the river is 30 yards wide and 4 | | |feet deep. It takes its name from | | |a mound near the khor with two | | |knolls (Tomat = twins). Formerly | | |there were several hamlets in the | | |neighbourhood, but no traces | | |exist.[11] The nearest hillet to | | |the river was Wad Abu Hamed, just | | |N. of the khor. Easy access to | | |water at date. Track winds over | | |undulating ground intersected by | | |khors, below the plateau 1 to 2 | | |miles distant to the westward. | | |Trees not quite so thick or close. | | | _Khor Um | 4 | 48½ |The Atbara is again reached here, Garra_ | | |about 1 mile N. of its junction | | |with the Setit, which brings down | | |at this time of the year more | | |water than the Atbara, and appears | | |to be a broader and finer stream. | | | | | |Good watering place. | | | | | |The path leaves the river in a | | |N.W. direction over broken and | | |undulating ground for 1 mile. The | | |plateau is reached and again thick | | |bush and trees are passed through. | | |At 55 miles J. Akelai is visible | | |through a break in the trees, | | |nearly due E. | | | Khor Fatut | 11½ | 60 |Track winds down to this khor, and | | |then for 1½ miles passes over very | | |broken ground. Track then | | |improves; the country is not so | | |closely wooded, and several open | | |spaces are traversed. | | | _Mogatta_ | 10 | 70 |No village; grazing and watering (Rest house) | | |place of the nomad Arabs. The | | |river is 12 miles from the track. | | |Several large islands in the | | |Atbara here, the water in the dry | | |season passing down by the left | | |bank. Lions are plentiful here. | | | | | |Here the direct road from Gedaref | | |comes in. From this point the road | | |improves considerably. Troops can | | |move on a broader front, and the | | |soil, though still cotton, is not | | |so cracked; the earth has a | | |slightly red tinge. Occasionally | | |belts of bush are traversed. At | | |the 92nd mile the track descends, | | |and the ground becomes very | | |broken. The remains of an old | | |Dervish post on a spur are seen | | |400 yards to right. | | | _M. Khashm El | 23½ | 93½ |Track here meets the river; a Girba_ | | |tributary, or branch of the | | |Atbara, comes in here on the | | |opposite bank, with water still in | | |it. Broken country is again | | |traversed, and many knolls and | | |khors are passed until the plateau | | |is again reached. Trees are | | |larger, and ground covered with | | |gau grass, excellent for grazing | | |cattle and sheep. | | | Dervish earth | 3 | 96½ |A square Dervish earthwork, each work | | |side about 80 yards long, is | | |passed on right. This was the site | | |of El Fasher village when it | | |existed. | | | _El Fasher | 4 | 100½ |At date, river was 50 yards broad, ford_ (Rest | | |18 inches deep at the most at the house) | | |ford. | | | | | |Bottom of bed consists of shingle. | | |Quarter of a mile up stream on the | | |right bank is the site of the post | | |held by a detachment from the | | |Kassala garrison in 1898. | | | | | |On leaving the ford, track leads | | |up the ascent to the plateau for 2 | | |miles, and passes over very broken | | |country intersected by khors. Then | | |the path is excellent; large open | | |spaces are divided by belts of | | |trees. J. Kassala bears E.N.E. | | | El Mellawiya | 22 | 122½ |An open (now) grassy space, where | | |rain-water collects and stands | | |from July to October. Serut flies | | |bad at that season, also snakes. | | |Attempts to make a well here have | | |so far been abortive. | | | Old well | 5 | 127½ |An old government well is passed | | |on right, now filled in. Country | | |now becomes closer, and trees with | | |bright green leaves become more | | |numerous; track narrows | | |considerably[12] as the Khor El | | |Gash is reached, though movement | | |is possible between the trees on | | |either flank. At the 135th mile, | | |the minaret of the Khatmia is | | |visible to the right, and soon the | | |factory chimney of Kassala is | | |visible to the front. | | | Khor El Gash | 12½ | 140 |The left bank of this khor is | | |reached; 600 to 700 yards broad. | | | Kassala | ½ | 140½ |Old town and Egyptian fort, now in | | |ruins. --------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------

20.—GEDAREF TO GALLABAT.

BY COL. COLLINSON AND CAPTAIN H. H. MORANT, 1898.

(_Corrected up to_ 1900.)

21.—ABU HARAZ TO GEDAREF.[14]

BY LIEUT.-COLONEL B. R. MITFORD, MARCH, 1899.

--------------+--------------------+---------------------------------- | Miles. | Place. +-------------+------+ Description. |Intermediate.|Total.| --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- Abu Haraz | — | — |Half of a mile N. of junction of | | |R. Rahad and Blue Nile. Track | | |leads through the village in an E. | | |direction, and 4 miles over a | | |plain covered with grass 4 feet | | |high after rains; then some bush | | |is entered which necessitates | | |reducing front of the column to | | |file. The Rahad is from 1 to 1½ | | |miles distant on right flank, its | | |banks covered with a belt of | | |jungle. Track consists of four to | | |six camel tracks over cotton soil. | | | _Meshra El | 8 | 8 |Half a mile before reaching this Hedeiba_ | | |meshra, the road bends to the | | |S.E.; 1¼ miles E. is the village | | |of Hedeiba, and 2 to 3 miles N.E. | | |is the village of Shegeila. A | | |single flat-topped samr tree marks | | |nearest point for water. A large | | |pool of water always here during | | |the dry season in the river bed. | | |Track passes over grassy plain | | |covered with the usual grasses met | | |with along the road, viz.: aada | | |grass, which grows in wet places | | |as high as 18 feet, and naal, from | | |1½ to 3 feet high. | | | _Id El Maya_ | 2½ | 10½ |A descent of ½ mile brings one to | | |this khor skirted with trees; the | | |hamlet of that name lies 2 miles | | |from the river; a meshra and pool | | |here in the dry season. The hamlet | | |of Amara lies 2½ miles N.E. Same | | |country is traversed, with | | |occasional belt of trees. | | | Khor Abu | 5½ | 16 |Track passes this khor 1½ miles Seghira | | |from the meshra, which is very | | |difficult to find, owing to the | | |jungle and the creepers festooned | | |from tree to tree. No pool there | | |this dry season. | | | Khoran El Homr| 2 | 18 |The “Red Khor,” of which there are | | |three. The second one is 1½ miles | | |on, and the third 1 mile further | | |on. Each khor is thickly fringed | | |with trees, bush, and high grass, | | |after rains. The track is now some | | |3 or 4 miles from the Rahad. At | | |23½ miles another khor is crossed, | | |and the ground rises into a stony | | |plateau. | | | _H. Sherif | 6½ | 24½ |Track passes to E. of this Yagub_ | | |village. Inhabitants are Ashraf. | | | _M. El Egeiga_| ½ | 25 |Camping ground is on a bluff 40 | | |feet above bed of river; a pool of | | |water always here in the dry | | |season. Natives say that in the | | |winter months it is not a good | | |camping ground, as it is very | | |feverish at night. Country now | | |becomes much more close, trees and | | |bushes narrow the track in many | | |places, and in the autumn the high | | |grass obscures all view to front | | |or flanks. | | | _M. Abuet El | 5 | 30 |This meshra is only 100 yards from Messih_ | | |the track, but the river is | | |somewhat hidden by the jungle. | | |Very unhealthy camping ground | | |during the autumn and winter. | | |Track continues through bush, with | | |occasional open spaces. | | | _M. El Esheir_| 3 | 33 |Good camping ground near track, | | |500 yards from the river. Just | | |after leaving this place, the | | |Arang range can be seen in clear | | |weather. Track as before. | | | _Ein El | 7 | 40 |Watering place here, on the Rahad, Lueiga_ | | |in the dry season; not a good | | |camping ground during or after | | |rains, there being much fever. The | | |track now leaves the vicinity of | | |the Rahad, and for the first 5 | | |miles trends towards the N.E. | | |corner of the Arang hills. The | | |Kassala Province is entered here. | | | | | |At the 48th mile a depression is | | |passed, where a little water is | | |sometimes found during the rains. | | |Plain covered with grass 1 to 10 | | |feet high in October, which from | | |that month becomes broken down by | | |the wind, and in March is only 2 | | |feet high. Track twists and turns | | |considerably until the hills are | | |reached. | | | Galaat Arang | 18 | 58 |The track strikes these hills | | |about 4 or 5 miles from its S. | | |end; bush is again entered, and | | |track becomes very stony and | | |covered with fallen boulders from | | |the hills. | | | | | |The hills are mostly rock, covered | | |with laot, and stunted baobab or | | |tebeldi trees. Ariel, gazelle, | | |bustard, guinea fowl, sand grouse, | | |apes, and baboons in these hills. | | |A mile on two pools of water are | | |formed in a shallow rocky | | |depression during rains, which is | | |only fit for camels. Track follows | | |the foot of the hills towards the | | |N., through bush and over stony | | |ground. | | | _El Fau_ (Rest| 9 | 67 |Track passes through a gorge in house) | | |the hills, wherein are the wells | | |of El Fau, near the E. mouth of | | |the gorge. One well, stone faced, | | |10 feet in diameter, 27 feet deep; | | |surface of water 1 foot from top | | |in October, 10 feet in March. The | | |other, stone faced, 5 feet in | | |diameter, 15 to 20 feet deep. | | |Water, both good. There are | | |several other wells in the | | |vicinity during rains, and pools | | |of water in holes and depressions. | | | | | |Track runs along the E. foot of | | |the hills to the N. point; bushy | | |and stony. | | | North End | 5 | 72 |Near the N.W. point of the Arang Arang | | |hills is H. Badad, or H. Sheikh | | |Shah El Din; one well, now filled | | |up. General direction of track is | | |now N.E. To the S. is seen J. | | |Fines, or Fenis, and to the S.E. | | |is J. Sergein. Bush becomes very | | |close; cotton soil. | | | J. Bayuda | 8 | 80 |Or Buwa’da, or Buwada’. A broad, | | |low, conical hill; some water in | | |rocky holes during the rains. | | |Track now runs E. by S., and for | | |the next 8 miles through thick | | |bush; country then becomes more | | |open and covered with grass again. | | | Ummat Rumeila | 19 | 99 |A group of some five or six hills, (Rest house) | | |averaging 80 to 100 feet high. | | |Some water in pools and holes | | |during rains. The track passes in | | |a N.E. direction through the | | |hills; several patches of bush are | | |traversed. At the 110th mile a | | |narrow belt of laot trees, 10 | | |yards broad, commences to run | | |alongside or in the middle of the | | |track; this belt follows the road | | |for 13 miles. | | | Taras Wad El | 20 | 119 |A small depression, wherein water Fahl (Rest | | |lies during rains. Two thorn house) | | |bushes to S. of track mark it. | | | Khor Abu | 7 | 126 |A descent leads to this very Hashim | | |shallow khor, and a similar rise | | |takes place on its E. side. J. | | |Tiwawa now becomes visible to the | | |E. Track runs over a grassy plain | | |with not even a shrub on it. | | | Khor Abu | 11 | 137 |Or Abu Fura. This khor rises near Faraga | | |Gedaref, and at this point the | | |track meets it; it here turns S. | | |The track runs parallel with it | | |for a mile, 2 to 400 yards | | |distant. At the 139th mile ground | | |falls gently. | | | Um Gulgia | 3 | 140 |A stony mound on left of the track | | |containing several deep holes, | | |said to contain enough water for | | |1,000 men and 500 camels during | | |the rains. | | | | | |Ground still falls gently, and a | | |mile on a small khor is crossed; | | |then ground ascends through small | | |scattered soffar trees. At the | | |143rd mile the houses of Gedaref | | |are visible. Track passes several | | |hamlets on either side, and | | |through much cultivation and high | | |aada grass, along S. side of J. | | |Tiwawa. | | | Gedaref | 6 | 146 |On top of a long gentle slope. --------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------

22.—GEDAREF _viâ_ HAWATA TO ABU HARAZ.

BY MAJOR BULKELEY-JOHNSON, NOVEMBER, 1901.

--------------+--------------------+---------------------------------- | Miles. | Place. +-------------+------+ Description. |Intermediate.|Total.| --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- Gedaref | — | — |Road leaves Gedaref from behind | | |the old barracks, and takes a S.W. | | |direction for 6 miles. Scattered | | |cultivation of every kind. A flat | | |basin like that N. of Gedaref. | | | J. Wad Sennat | 4½ | 4½ |Small hill 100 feet high and 500 | | |yards long, running N.W. and S.E., | | |with small hella S. slope. | | | _Abu Nagar_ | 1½ | 6 |Tukl village. ½ mile right of | | |road; one of Abu Nagar group of | | |five villages. | | | | ½ | 6½ |Ditto on left of road. | | | | ½ | 7 |Well 30 feet deep; water always, | | |but only 6 feet deep; watered 80 | | |horses in 30 minutes. | | | | ½ | 7½ |Hella ½ mile right of road. Road | | |bends to S.W. by W. | | | | 1½ | 9 |Cultivation ends. Road bad from | | |small bushes hidden in naal grass. | | | J. Matni | 17 | 26 |J. Matni ½ mile long, 50 to 100 | | |feet high; stony and covered with | | |habil trees. Woods round J. Matni | | |(soffar and habil) to the E. | | | | | |From J. Matni to Beila by direct | | |road 2 miles are saved. After J. | | |Matni road branches to right, | | |straight to Beila; left to Ghanem | | |or Ganam (meaning water holes). | | | _Ghanem_ | 3 | 29 |Small khor and 12 water holes | | |about 8 feet deep, and water 1 | | |foot 6 inches (Nov. 15th); | | |probably dry by end of month | | |(1901), rain having been slightly | | |under average. | | | | 2 | 31 |Joins main road nearly at right | | |angles. | | | | 15½ | 46½ |Small hill ¼ mile off the road. | | |Road afterwards curls in between | | |it and Beila to two small hellas | | |on far side. | | | _Beila_[15] | ½ | 47 |Two small villages and two | | |splendid wells cut in solid rock; | | |any amount of beautiful clear | | |water all the year round[15], 50 | | |feet deep; revetted at top; very | | |good grasses here. From Beila a | | |road now goes to Mafaya on the | | |Rahad, which is much shorter than | | |going to Hawata. | | | _El Fereikh_ | 5 | 52 |Thirty tukls; inhabited all the | | |year road; now water from holes | | |dry in March, 1902. | | | _J. Arid_ | 5 | 57 |Four water holes 6 inches deep, | | |nearly empty on arrival; when | | |opened up to 9 inches gave 3 feet | | |muddy water. Nov. 17th watered 80 | | |horses three times; dry in March, | | |1902. | | | J. Gerein | — | — |Water nearly finished; 30 tukls | | |inhabited all year round.[16] | | |Later on get water from Rahad, | | |which is here about 60 yards wide | | |and water 4 feet deep in Nov. | | |Banks steep. | | | _Hawata_ | 18 | 75 |Very good camp. Fairly large | | |village here. | | | | | |Road follows the river, never more | | |than 2 miles from it, cutting off | | |small bends. Single track; good | | |through long grass; bad for guns | | |as wheels or teams are going | | |through the grass. River | | |approachable everywhere, and | | |watering possible at all times of | | |year. | | | | | |Camps exceedingly good under shade | | |of sunt trees 30-40 feet high. | | |Grasses in abundance and good, | | |neghil, abu rokba and abu arid. | | | | | |From Hawata track proceeds along | | |right bank and enters bush. | | | _Wad Keriam_ | 2½ | 77½ |Part of Hawata belonging to Abu | | |Bakr; small hills; clearing and | | |cultivation. | | | | ½ | 78 |Ten tukls, ditto, ditto. | | | | | |Bush and grass alternately; thick | | |bush, inland kittr and talh. | | | | 8 | 86 |Grass plain. Bend of river meeting | | |it again at | | | _Wad Kerein_ | 5 | 91 |Fifty tukls belonging to Abu Sin, | | |as does all the country up to | | |hella Sherif El Hindi. | | | _Wad Mayim_ or| 2 | 93 |Same as Wad Kerein. Wad Balula | | | | | | | 8 | 101 |Road crosses to left bank. Ford on | | |Nov. 13th, about 3 feet deep; Nov. | | |24th, 6 inches deep. There is no | | |road on E. bank, only thick bush. | | |From here open grass plain, bush | | |inland, ½ mile off river bends | | |from road. | | | | | |Between road and river a strip of | | |country with big red sunt trees | | |30-40 feet high and good grasses. | | |The road now strikes khor—thickly | | |wooded leading to lagoon running | | |W. from river, which turns to | | |S.W., road goes round it turning | | |W. and afterwards S. | | | | 7 | 108 |Head of lagoon. | | | _Muttu_ | ½ | 108½ |Road branches to right of | | |hella—Hawata (Arabs) 1½ miles | | |off—300 yards from river in open | | |bush. | | | | 1½ | 110 |Road to Muttu and meshra, 1 mile | | |of thick bush, kitr and talh. | | | | 1 | 111 |Khor (dry). | | | | 2 | 113 |Big khor, nearly dry—very | | |difficult during rains and up to | | |Nov. 1st, 1901. Soft mud Nov. | | |27th. | | | | 2½ | 115½ |Small road to right, leading to | | |big khor thickly wooded, water 4 | | |feet deep or lagoon. | | | | 1½ | 117 |Khor (dry). | | | | 2½ | 119½ |Ditto leading to meshra. | | | | | |Road alternately bush and grass. | | | | 6½ | 126 |Road branches to meshra. | | | | 6 | 132 |Approaches meshra, 200 yards. | | | | 11 | 143 |Deserted village, 100 yards left | | |of road. | | | | | |Road very good, broad and hard. | | | | 3 | 146 |Cross road from Rahad to Dinder. | | | | 10 | 156 |Ditto to Blue Nile. | | | | 1 | 157 |Road from meshra to hella, inland | | |2 miles. | | | | 4 | 161 |Opposite to Ein El Lueiga. | | | | 3 | 164 |Road branches to right towards | | |river—left to Sherif El Hindi. | | | Aruth Rutha | 2 | 166 |Road to Hella Aruth. | | | Hafeira | 2½ | 168 |Hella; Arab encampment; flocks and | | |herds. | | | Wad Rekeih | 1½ | 170 |Hella, 100 yards right of road. | | | Sherif | 2 | 172 |Hella of Sherif Yusef El Hindi. | | | | 4½ | 176½ |Ford and road to Sherif Yakub. | | |Road crosses river. | | | Abu Haraz | 24½ | 201 |(Afterwards _see_ map). | | | | | |[Rahad ceased to flow Nov. 30th, | | |1901; only a slight trickle on | | |29th.] --------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------

23.—SOFI _viâ_ ABU GULUD TO SERAF SAID.

BY MAJOR G. DE H. SMITH, FEBRUARY, 1900.

24.—FAMAKA TO ABU RAMLA.

BY MAJOR C. W. GWYNN.

25.—KARKOJ TO HAWATA.

BY MR. E. BONHAM CARTER, MARCH, 1902.

26.—ROSEIRES TO ABU SHANEINA BY RIGHT BANK.

BY MAJOR C. W. GWYNN, R.E., 1900.

27.—SENGA _viâ_ DURRABA TO UM EL RUG.

BY CAPTAIN H. F. S. AMERY, MARCH, 1903.

--------------+--------------------+---------------------------------- | Miles. | Place. +-------------+------+ Description. |Intermediate.|Total.| --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- Mena | — | — |Opposite to Senga, on R. bank Blue | | |Nile, Sheikh Adlan, descendant of | | |Fung Sultans of Sennar Fungs and | | |Hawazma. Broad well, defined | | |track, good going. | | | _Lueisa_ (on | 15½ | 15½ |Sheikh Ali Wad Idris, El Hamada, Dinder) | | |and some Ashraf. At Lueisa also | | |lives Sheikh El Agab, Head Sheikh | | |of Dinder. | | | | | |Track keeps away from river to cut | | |off bends, direction about S.E. | | |Cultivation near village. | | | Um Saba | 7½ | 23 |Jungle closes in on both sides | | |track after Kakum. | | | Khamisa | 4½ | 27½ |Track well defined, soon after | | |Khamisa enters bed of river, and _Abu Hashim_ | 7½ | 35 |comes out again same side. | | |Cultivation at villages, dura and | | |semsem. | | | El Hagar | — | — | | | | _Murafa_ | 7½ | 42½ |Most of villages on Dinder are | | |near pools, some have to dig for | | |water in river bed. | | | Wad Bashush | 2½ | 45 |Some game seen, oribi, reedbuck, | | |&c. | | | _Durraba_ | 7½ | 52½ |Last inhabited place on Dinder. | | | _Meshra | 8 | 60½ |Large pool. Sherif_ | | | | | | „ _Rekeba_ | — | — |Path less clearly defined; black | | |cotton soil, badly cracked; „ _Abgir_ | 5½ | 66 |shadeless; tracks and droppings of | | |elephants abundant from Duraba | | |whole way up Dinder. After this | | |see no more people on Dinder. | | | _Koka_ | — | — | | | | _El Laban_ | — | — | | | | _Refadik_ | 12½ | 78½ |All places from Durraba onwards | | |are only water pools, but were | | |mostly hellets in old government | | |days. Water on Dinder excellent | | |throughout, pools more frequent | | |higher up river. | | | _Wad El Haj_ | 11 | 89½ |After Refadik country looks more | | |interesting, and good deal of game | | |seen, ariel plentiful, fresh | | |elephant and buffalo tracks. From | | |here a track made by game cuts | | |across large bend of river for | | |about 2 miles. The only means of | | |progress for hamla after this is | | |in bed of river. Sand heavy, but | | |suits the camels well. | | | _Meshra Gazar_| 5 | 94½ | | | | _Khor Gelagu_ | 10½ | 105 | | | | „ Masawik | 1½ | 106½ | | | | Beit El Wahesh| — | — | | | | _El Dueim_ | 7 | 113½ | | | | _Semsir_ | 2½ | 116 |Name applies to district around. | | | _Um Bilbis_ | 13 | 129 | | | | _Um El Rug_ | 4½ | 133½ |In this neighbourhood game is | | |plentiful, such as elephant, | | |buffalo, roan, hartebeest, tiang, | | |ariel reedbuck, ostrich, warthog, | | |&c. There are also heglig, talh, | | |kittr, hashab, sunt, kakamot and | | |suba trees. Forests much damaged | | |by jungle fires all along Dinder. --------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------

28.—MOUTH OF KHOR GELAGU (DINDER) TO GALLABAT.

BY CAPTAIN H. F. S. AMERY, MARCH, 1903.

--------------+----------------------+-------------------------------- | Miles. | +-------------+--------+ Place. | | Total | Description. |Intermediate.| from | | |Durraba.| --------------+-------------+--------+-------------------------------- _Khor Gelagu_ | — | 53½ |A tributary on R. bank of | | |Dinder, 53½ miles above Durraba. | | | | | |Track (made by game) keeps away | | |from Gelagu on R. bank, going _Farsh El | — | — |pretty good; woods (not dense) Ghani_ | | |alternating with large open | | |plains, covered with high grass, „ „ _Sanei_ | — | — |called farshes. Ras Amer is a | | |long shallow lake, the west end _Maya Ras | 6 | 59½ |about 1 mile from Gelagu (which Amer_ (west | | |winds very much), at this time end of) | | |(March) 2 miles long E. and W. | | |by 150 to 300 yards broad. East | | |end about 2½ miles from Gelagu. | | |Open plains; either end of lake | | |swarming with game, water of | | |lake very thick and slimy, with | | |fishy taste owing to millions of | | |pelicans, geese, &c. Gave | | |several of our men sore throats. | | | Camp | 7½ | 67 |Strike N.N.E. for Rahad (camp on | | |road), badly cracked cotton | | |soil, yellow reed grass and | | |sparsely scattered trees, but no | | |obstacle to hamla marching in | | |any direction across country, | | |provided a couple of men go in | | |front with axes to lop off | | |branches. | | | _Warre_ | 10½ | 77½ |Strike Rahad at Warre, which | | |like all places mentioned here | | |on the Rahad, used to be | | |flourishing hella in old | | |government days, but now | | |absolutely deserted, and nothing | | |to show that human beings have Wad Dam | 2½ | 80 |ever been there. | | | _Wad Shusha_ | 2½ | 82½ |River winds very much going | | |alternately in every direction | | |of compass, but doubtful if any | | |time saved by marching through | | |jungle on either bank-bed 50 to | | |80 yards wide. | | | _Araki_ | 6 | 88½ |All these places are on good | | |pools. | | | _Deleib Mugda_| 4 | 92½ | „ „ „ | | | _El Ebeik_ | 4 | 96½ | „ „ „ | | | _Wad Arud_ | 5 | 101½ | „ „ „ | | | _Um Dakin_ | 2½ | 104 | „ „ „ | | | | | |Bed of river begins to be rocky | | |in places and going rough and | | |bad for loaded camels; pools | | |more numerous, not over 40 yards | | |wide in most places. | | | _Mukleil_ | 5 | 109 |After here, better to march on | | |R. bank, river bed stony. | | | _Meshra Abid_ | 12 | 121 |Soon after M. Abid leave river | | |and strike N.E. for Gallabat, | | |soon strike on to track which | | |goes from Gallabat to Hawata | | |made by government last year. | | |This road was made chiefly to | | |enable cattle owners to take | | |their cattle down Rahad, but | | |they all prefer to go _viâ_ | | |Gedaref because of the lions. | | |The road is used to a small | | |extent by honey seekers from | | |Gallabat. Cotton soil badly | | |cracked. | | | _Babikr_ | 28½ | 149½ |No water till Babikr-hella; | | |consists of several small groups | | |of huts, cultivation, dukhn, | | |semsem, cotton, dura. | | |Inhabitants Takruris, Fors, | | |Gunjara, &c. Country begins to | | |be more undulating, red | | |sandstone, alternating with bad | | |cotton soil till Gallabat, stony | | |in parts, bad going for camels. | | | _Yunes_ | — | — |Village; well. | | | _Basunda_ | 6½ | 156 | „ „ | | | Kurunkula | — | — | | | | _Wallak_ | 14 | 170 |Sheikh of Gallabat and of these | | |villages—El Sheikh Sheraf | | |Abdalla. Well. | | | _Khor Otruk_ | 9 | 179 |Water in pool in khor. | | | Gallabat | 5½ | 184½ | --------------+-------------+--------+--------------------------------

29.—GALLABAT TO WAD MEDANI, _viâ_ RIVER RAHAD.[17]

BY CAPTAIN C. H. LEWIN, MARCH, 1902.

--------------+--------------------+---------------------------------- | Miles. | Place. +-------------+------+ Description. |Intermediate.|Total.| --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- Gallabat | — | — |Route follows that to Gedaref as | | |far as Khor Otruk. | | | _Khor Otruk_ | 6 | 6 |Road here diverges to W., crossing | | |Khor Yabis. Water in holes in khor Khor Yabis | ½ | 6½ |to right of track under large | | |ardeib tree. Road proceeds W. up | | |valley through some cultivation | | |passing village of Sultan. | | | Sultan | ½ | 7 |Well in course of construction. | | |Water not yet (March, 1902) found | | |at 30 feet, but said to be near. | | | | | |Road winds on through forest, up | | |valley, high wooded hills on | | |either side, crosses spurs and | | |khors. Owing to loose stones and | | |steep gradients, camels can only | | |do 2½ miles an hour. | | | Ras El Fil | 3 | 10 |Track passes over low pass close | | |under this hill, which is highest | | |point of N. ridge, and descends | | |gradually to | | | _Wallak_ | 2½ | 12½ |Wallak, a scattered village of | | |Kunjaras, one well 40 feet, fair | | |water, 2 rakubas, about 5 acres of | | |cotton, and fair amount of other | | |cultivation. Road proceeds over | | |more level and open country, red | | |gravel soil, and rises to a neck | | |just S. of Kabushi. | | | Jebel Kabushi | 1 | 13½ |A conical grass covered hill. Path | | |descends sharply to water in _Water_ | 1 | 14½ |hollow to right of track, but | | |nearly empty by middle of March. | | | _Karnakala_ | ½ | 15 |Village of Kunjaras. About 12 | | |acres of cotton and considerable | | |amount of other cultivation. Two | | |wells in khor just under village, | | |water at 6 feet good and | | |plentiful. Rakuba by wells under | | |ardeib tree. The Sheikh Ali Seru | | |said he was a soldier with Gordon | | |Pasha. | | | | | |Track passes through village, | | |turning S. just outside for a | | |short distance. | | | | | |Going not too good, stony, and as | | |path is only used by donkeys, is | | |narrow for camels, who stumble a | | |good deal. | | | Khor Abu Jamfa| 3 | 18 |Open khor; small amount of water | | |in holes. | | | _Kuka_ | 2 | 20 |Village of Kunjaras. Water comes | | |out of rock at bottom of deep | | |rocky khor, which is overhung by | | |large tebeldi tree of about 10 | | |feet diameter. Road winds S. and | | |then W. again, passing villages of | | |Basunda and Yunis at about ½ mile | | |interval. These draw their water | | |from a deep rocky khor half way | | |between Kuka and Basunda. Good | | |rakubas at all of them. | | | _Babikr_ | 6 | 26 |Going improves as this village is | | |reached. Road still winds through | | |forest country. Very little water | | |left in well. Good rakuba. Sheikh | | |describes this as half-way between | | |Rahad and Gallabat. Track winds to | | |S.W. and going becomes very bad | | |again. Cotton soil, which gives | | |under camels as they go along. | | |Track very indistinct in places. | | | Domajura | 9 | 35 |Road winds between 2 stony low | | |hills of this name. On W. side a | | |well dug in the rock said to have | | |been made by Sheik Saleh Bey, | | |formerly of Gallabat. No water | | |now, and a bad smell emanates from | | |it. | | | Hag Bakhit | 3 | 38 |Track passes over low rocky column | | |of this name. One mile N.W. is | | |ruined Deim of brother of Saleh | | |Bey. It lies on top of hill named | | |Zurga. | | | _Meshra Sirri_| 9 | 47 |Track gradually descends to River or Abid (?) | | |Rahad passing a few stony | | |hillocks. Bad going, over cotton | | |soil all the way. Meshra 2 miles | | |N. of steep rocky hill Jebel | | |Surur. | | | | | |Good camping ground in zeriba. A | | |certain number of nomad | | |inhabitants who come down to fish | | |appear to make this a halting | | |place. Water clear, good, and pool | | |deep. Swarms with fish and | | |crocodile, and from tracks appear | | |to be favourite watering place of | | |much game, including elephant and | | |lion. | | | | | |From Babikr there cannot be said | | |to be any defined track. The way | | |is shown by blazed trees and | | |stumps of trees cut down by | | |clearing party. The whole way | | |practically is bad going, both for | | |camels and donkeys, owing to | | |rotten black cotton soil. Camels | | |go at a slow walk only. From Kuka | | |onwards the route is waterless, | | |but there are plenty of likely | | |looking places where water might | | |be found if wells were dug. | | | | | |From Meshra Sirri, route runs | | |roughly N.W. along right bank of | | |Rahad, it is marked by blazed | | |trees here and there. At times | | |going very bad over cotton soil. | | |Camels get along with difficulty | | |at slow walk. Sometimes going is | | |good, but only for short time. | | | _Meshra | 11¾ | 58¾ |Plenty of water in pool; good Kakamut_ | | |shade; zeriba; banks very steep | | |down to water and difficult for | | |camels. | | | _Meshra Myat | 1½ | 60¼ |Track rises on to a broad low bank Bringi_ | | |by riverside, which is evidently | | |an island when river is in flood. | | | _Meshra Ghaba | 2¼ | 62½ |Zeriba, water ¼ mile up stream, Susa_ | | |small amount, and very green. | | | _Bendego_ | 2¾ | 65¼ |Zeriba and meshra. Banks very | | |steep down to water. Quarter mile | | |further on the track passes group | | |of 11 very large tebeldi trees, | | |one of which has diameter 21 feet. | | | _Meshra | 6½ | 71¾ |Zeriba by large tebeldi tree, tebeldi_ | | |water ¼ mile up stream, very steep | | |bank and not much shade. | | | _Meshra | 3 | 74¾ |Sangafut, an island in stream when Sangafut_ | | |river is in flood. Pool ¼ mile up | | |stream. Banks steep down to pool. | | |Good shade just above. Meshra not | | |at all apparent from road. Zeriba | | |can be seen from road, is built on | | |the bank and is half way between | | |water and island of Sangafut. | | |Water plentiful. | | | | | |Between this and Ghaba Susa track | | |passes across several shallow | | |khors but no water in them. | | | _Meshra | 7½ | 82¼ |Half a mile from meshra, and Deresa_ | | |zeriba track strikes river at spot | | |where broad belt of long grass | | |intervenes between it and river | | |bed. Follows curve of river round | | |on high ground to zeriba, which is | | |at a spot on the curve where the | | |river is running from N.E. to S.W. | | |Very steep path down to water | | |immediately to W. end of zeriba, | | |which was impossible for camels, | | |but one just possible ¼ mile E. of | | |zeriba. Water plentiful in pool | | |and good. From here on trees | | |decrease in size and become less | | |dense. Guide said this was | | |formerly a large village and a | | |battalion was stationed here, | | |which was cut up by Abyssinians 35 | | |or 40 years ago. The place was | | |destroyed by Dervishes. The town | | |was ½ mile N.W. of meshra and | | |zeriba. Several lions heard here. | | | _Wad Betul_ | 2½ | 84¾ |Meshra, no zeriba, road | | |immediately above stream, and | | |country much more open here. From | | |here blazing of trees is | | |discontinued, and direction has to | | |be kept (1902) by compass and | | |stream. Rate of progress cannot be | | |reckoned at more than 2 miles per | | |hour. | | | _Khor Semsem_ | 7½ | 92¼ |Broad shelving grass-grown khor | | |running in direction from N.E. to | | |S.W. runs into river here. Bad | | |meshra just N.W. of it, little | | |shade, and very steep banks. Water | | |green. 1½ miles from Semsem the | | |river bed widens and becomes | | |muddy—until now it has always been | | |sandy—very good grass grows on the | | |part from which water has receded. | | | Island (name | 3 | 95¼ |River doubles back and runs nearly unknown) | | |S.E. and flows round an island. | | |Track follows several broad and | | |very grassy and bushy khors which | | |caused wide détours. | | | | 2¼ | 97½ |Good spot for camp immediately | | |above a large pool. Banks steep | | |and thickly wooded, though | | |immediate site of camp clear. | | | | | |The island seems to come to an end | | |about ¼ mile further down stream. | | |From here the track becomes plain | | |again, the tree felling and | | |blazing is regular and | | |systematical, and easily followed. | | |Going improves and camels can | | |occasionally trot. Country becomes | | |more open and track crosses | | |several shallow khors. | | | _Meshra | 6 | 103½ |Track strikes river at a broad re- Abrakuba_ | | |entrant bend. Plentiful supply of | | |water and gently shelving banks | | |easy for any animals to water. | | |Good camping and grazing ground by | | |the river. | | | _Shammam_ | — | — |A small tukl village of Dinka | | |colonists. Sheikh Dik Malek. Is | | |situated to left of track on | | |rising ground among trees above | | |river. Dura cultivation shows its | | |presence at some distance from the | | |track, from which it is itself | | |invisible. Poor supplies; a little | | |dura was obtained after some | | |difficulty. Water good and | | |plentiful. | | | | | |From here track bends inland from | | |river crossing the shallow khors | | |of Wad Bikr and Malwia. The track | | |is indistinct and hard to follow | | |owing to clearing having been done | | |in most erratic fashion. Camels | | |have to proceed at a walk. After | | |7½ miles track, strikes the river | | |again, which is dry here, and is | | |running round a large island, | | |Geziret Fatna. Two miles further | | |on comes | | | _Meshra | 9½ | 119 |A large shallow pool rapidly Geziret Fatna_| | |drying up. Track runs along this | | |pool for about 1 mile over rough | | |going where the two branches of | | |the river round Geziret Fatna re- | | |unite and track strikes N. and | | |then trends round to river again, | | |striking it at Wad El Kashedi. | | | _Wad El | 2½ | 121½ |A good pool, but banks steep, Kashedi_ | | |looks as if an old canal formerly | | |ran into river from W. Jebel | | |Mogadad appears in distance in E. | | |direction. Going still bad. Cotton | | |soil, but fewer trees. | | | | | |Track follows close to river bank, | | |water occasionally in pools, but | | |banks steep. Two miles from Hawata | | |track improves and enters belt of | | |trees through which it is well | | |cleared. Some cultivation about in | | |cleared patches. | | | Hawata | 7½ | 129 |Fair-sized tukl village of | | |Hamadas. Fair supplies and good | | |pool of water immediately beside | | |village. Track from here improves | | |greatly. It is well cleared and | | |camels can trot. The journey from | | |Gallabat to Hawata cut the feet of | | |4 out of 5 camels so badly that | | |they were unable to proceed | | |further. Between Meshra Sirri and | | |Hawata game very plentiful. | | |Numerous tracks of elephants; | | |lions were heard each night. | | |Giraffe seen twice. Ariel | | |frequently seen in enormous herds | | |of over 100. North of Hawata no | | |more lions or elephants, and ariel | | |became scarce. I saw natives | | |coursing gazelle, and they say | | |they hunt a good deal. | | | _Girbu_ | 2 | 131 |From Hawata, track winds through | | |trees and long grass to small tukl | | |village on river bank with some | | |scattered tukls further on. | | |Country opens out into large grass | | |plains dotted with bushes and | | |clumps of trees. | | | _Nuwar_ | 8 | 139 |A small tukl village to left of | | |track some way back from river. | | |Jebel Beila at right angles to | | |track, N.E. | | | _Wadi Nagami_ | 3 | 142 |A new tukl village of Hamadas | | |rapidly springing up. Over 30 | | |tukls already built. People said | | |to be returning from khors and | | |jebels round. A few sheep, no | | |camels. | | | _Mafasa_ | 1 | 143 |Another rapidly increasing village | | |of Hamadas. Signs of old tukls | | |shown. There are now over 30 new | | |ones.[18] Sheep and oxen, but no | | |camels. About ¼ mile from river. A | | |little dura cultivated. From here, | | |track passes through grass plains | | |and trees for 3 miles, and then | | |gets into thick bush country for | | |another 3 miles, rising slowly the | | |whole time till it suddenly | | |emerges on top of cleared, broken, _Abraham_ | 6 | 149 |and hillocky ground, from which it | | |descends sharply into and crosses | | |the river bed which is dry here. | | |After crossing the river track | | |turns S.W. following round S. edge | | |of a dry shallow branch of the | | |river, which is lined thickly on | | |either bank by good-sized trees | | |through which path winds and | | |gradually works round to N.E. | | |direction. | | | _Muttu_ | 5 | 154 |Meshra and various shifting tukl | | |villages, some inhabited, some | | |deserted. People appear to come | | |here to build tukls before the | | |rains begin, sow and reap dura on | | |open spaces between the trees, and | | |then move on. From here track is | | |well defined though crossed by | | |numerous other tracks. Trees, | | |except on immediate river bank, | | |cease. | | | _Karakeila_ | ¾ | 154¾ |Meshra, track to it branches off | | |to right. | | | _Abbas_ | 4½ | 159¼ |Meshra, invisible from the path. | | |Good pool and shade; from this, | | |track resumes N.W. direction. | | | _Bir el Gamal_| 16¾ | 176 |Road forks here into an eye shape. | | |Good meshra and distinct road down | | |to it. It is under high trees | | |which show on N. side of track on | | |river bank about ¼ mile off. | | | Ghabat | 4½ | 180½ |Deserted tukl village of 40 huts. | | |Jebel Arang is sighted bearing | | |N.E. | | | | 5 | 185½ |A track turns off N.E. to Jebel | | |Arang, and one bears to left | | |running direct to Hafar. Main | | |track leads on to Meshra Kheiari. | | | _Meshra | 6½ | 192 |A good meshra with fair shade. Kheiari_ | | |Meshra El Gelma at 191½ mile found | | |dry. Large numbers of camels about | | |here grazing. From here, track to | | |Wad Medani leaves Rahad and runs | | |nearly due W. on leaving the | | |river, trees and shrubs soon cease | | |and cotton soil plain is crossed | | |to Kheiari a deserted village of | | |about 40 tukls; a deep well of | | |about 6 feet diameter has been | | |dug, but is now dry. Track | | |continues W. over plain, ground | | |rising slightly to Hafar. | | | _Hafeira_ | 4½ | 196½ |Large tukl village over 100 tukls | | |all well built. Inhabited by | | |different tribes: Jaalin (few) | | |Hawazma, Rufaa. One well supplies | | |whole village, 72 feet deep and | | |about 6 feet wide, very good water | | |in it. Said never to run dry. Few | | |cattle and sheep and other | | |supplies. Like all other places | | |between this and Gedaref it was | | |laid waste by Ahmed Fedil on his | | |march to join the Khalifa. | | | | | |From Hafar track runs W. over | | |cotton soil, is clearly marked. | | |Clumps of trees and bushes in | | |places. | | | Shebaga | 14 | 210½ |Small tukl village, few | | |inhabitants. | | | _Alarebab_ | 9 | 219½ |Track strikes Blue Nile about 1 | | |mile N. of Alarebab, and opposite Wad Medani | ½ | 220 |Wad Medani. Ferry across to left | | |bank. --------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------

30.—ITINERARY OF BLUE NILE—KHARTOUM TO FAZOGLI.

BY CAPTAIN H. F. S. AMERY, MARCH, 1903.

--------------+--------------------+---------------------------------- | Miles. | Place. +-------------+------+ Description. |Intermediate.|Total.| --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- Khartoum | — | — |Up to Soba, cultivation good on | | |both banks, though confined to a | | |narrow strip—Sakias numerous. | | | Buri | 3 | 3 |L. | | | Kuku | 1½ | 4½ |R. | | | El Gereif | 2 | 6½ |Island here at low Nile. | | | Karkoj | 1¼ | 7¾ |R. | | | Um Dom Island | 2 | 9¾ |½ mile above the island are the | | |hillas of Um Dom R. and El Hagirat | | |L. | | | Soba | 4 | 13¾ |On the R. are the ruins of the | | |capital of the once flourishing | | |kingdom of Alwa; on the L. a small | | |village. Soba is the name of the | | |district on both sides of the | | |river, and continues to Soba El | | |Taib a village 3 miles further S. | | |on the R. bank. | | | Butri | 4 | 17¾ |Two villages of this name L. the | | |other is 1 mile further N. From | | |here on for many miles the | | |character of the country does not | | |change. The eastern bank is | | |covered with thick, low thorn | | |jungle, while the western bank is | | |open and sandy, very little scrub | | |and half grass. There are patches | | |of cultivation round the villages, | | |and when the water falls, a narrow | | |strip by the foreshore of the | | |river is cultivated with heavy | | |crops of dura, lubia, sesame, | | |melons, and vegetables. Some of | | |the islands also are under | | |cultivation. | | | Eilafun | 3 | 20¾ |Wood station and village L., a | | |track leads from here to Geili | | |about 75 miles. About ¼ mile | | |inland on the L. is the Government | | |rest house of Sabil. | | | Dueikhla | 1½ | 22¼ |R. | | | Bageir | ¼ | 22½ |L. | | | Bageir Sharg | 2½ | 25 |R. | | | Bageir | 1 | 26 |L. Another small village of the | | |same name. | | | El Shereig | 2 | 28 |R. | | | El Gedid | 1½ | 29½ |L. First of three villages of same | | |name extending for 1½ miles S. | | |Cultivation round the villages. | | | Awag El Darb | 3¼ | 32¾ |L. Between here and Masadia, a | | |short distance inland on R. bank | | |is the village of Sheikh El Obeid. | | | Masadia | 2½ | 35¼ |L. | | | El Nuba | 2½ | 37¾ |L. Largish village ½ mile from | | |river. | | | Mahas Island, | ¾ | 38½ | N. end | | | | | | Mahas, S. end | 2¼ | 40¾ | | | | Maid | 1 | 41¾ |Large village L. with Rest house | | |on river bank and large mosque. | | | Alti | 1½ | 43¾ |L. | | | El Nur | 1 | 44¼ |L. | | | Um Magad | 3¾ | 48 |L. | | | El Tikena | 2 | 50 | | | | Bishagra | 1½ | 51½ |Villages L. and R. The one on L. Island | | |large with three mosques. Former | | |Dervish depôt and powder factory. | | | Fogur | 1 | 52½ |L. Small village. | | | Eidag | 1¼ | 53¾ |R. | | | Takela | ¾ | 54½ |L. | | | Sayal | ½ | 55 |R. | | | Wad El Turabi | 3 | 58 |L. | | | Wad Esheib | 1½ | 59½ |R. | | | Belula | ¾ | 60¼ |L. Kasembar | | | | | | Kalkol | 1¾ | 64½ |L. Opposite S. end of island of | | |same name. | | | _Kamlin_ | 2½ | 64½ |L. Head quarters of the Blue Nile | | |Province, a large and growing | | |village with market place, post | | |and telegraph offices, and a good | | |rest house in a grove of date | | |palms at N. end of village. | | |Inhabitants Jaalin and Danagla. | | |More cultivation from here S. | | |Country also much more wooded. | | |Rest house. | | | Metemma | 1½ | 66 |R. 1 mile inland. The road on the | | |R. bank to Rufaa goes inland _viâ_ | | |the villages of Metemma, Branko | | |and Deim. | | | Hamed El Nil | 5½ | 71½ | | | | Branko | ½ | 72 |Some way inland R. | | | Um Degersi | ½ | 72½ |L. Two villages close together. | | | Abd El Magdi | 1 | 73½ |L. | | | Helalia | 2 | 75½ |R. Large village. | | | Abu El Ashr | 1½ | 77 |L. Helawin district commences | | |here. | | | Bueida Island | 3½ | 100½ | | | | Hegeir | 3 | 103½ |R. | | | Wad Abu Furur | 3½ | 107 |L. Large village with Government | | |Rest house. R. bank wooded. | | | _Hassa Hisa_ | 4¾ | 111¾ |L. Commonly called Hassai, largish | | |village, the direction of the | | |river after this is N.E. to Rufaa. | | |Hassai and Rufaa being at the | | |points of the curves of the S. | | |known as the Rufaa bend. Rest | | |house. | | | Rufa’a | 5 | 116¾ |R. Wood station. Former grain | | |stores. Ali Wad Abu Sin, and Wakil | | |el Amin Abu Sin, SS. Alla Hemrab | | |L. Rufa’a is said to be the second | | |largest town on the Blue Nile. It | | |stands some little way back from | | |the river, and is a fairly | | |populous place. Its inhabitants | | |are a branch of the Shukria tribe | | |of Arabs, and call themselves | | |Rufaa-Shukria. Good crops are | | |raised on the foreshore and | | |islands in the vicinity, and | | |melons are cultivated, upon an | | |extensive scale on the flats up- | | |stream of the town. The river here | | |is very wide and shallow, and | | |navigation in summer is extremely | | |difficult. | | | Amara | 2 | 118¾ | | | | Abid | 1 | 119¾ |L. | | | Ereibab | 4 | 122¼ |R. About 1½ miles inland. | | | Wad Belal | 4½ | 126¾ |L. | | | Fadassi | 4 | 130¾ |L. Large village and Rest house. | | |Good garden on river bank | | |belonging to Omda of village. | | | Fadassi Amrab | 2 | 132¾ |L. | | | Tayiba | 3 | 135¾ |L. | | | Hamid El Nil | 1½ | 137¼ |R. | | | Abu Haraz | 1½ | 138¾ |Starting place of caravan road to | | |Gedaref. | | | Abu Ushur | ¾ | 139½ |R. Mouth of River Rahad. Water | | |differs little from that of Blue | | |Nile; rather more vegetable | | |organic matter. Jungle begins both | | |banks. This river, which rises in | | |the N.W. slopes of the Abyssinian | | |mountains, brings down a large | | |volume of water when in flood. It | | |enters the Nile at an angle of | | |70°, and its bed in February was 3 | | |feet higher than the water surface | | |of the Blue Nile at that time. The | | |Rahad, with the exception of a few | | |pools, is dry for many months of | | |the year. Its banks at the | | |junction are steep and high, quite | | |39 feet over the bed, which has a | | |width of 71 yards. The flood-marks | | |show that the rise of the Rahad is | | |from 15 to 19 feet in height. The | | |Blue Nile at this junction forms | | |an “S” curve, taking a sharp bend | | |to the W., and again another to | | |the E. Its width, is measured, 595 | | |yards. The banks of the Rahad | | |River are covered with thick and | | |dense jungle, as are both banks of | | |the Blue Nile in this reach. | | |Shortly before Wad Medani is | | |reached, the W. bank becomes open | | |again, but the forest on the E. | | |bank is continuous. | | | Wad Medani | 5 | 144½ |L. Large and flourishing town, | | |largest in Sudan after Omdurman. | | |Head quarters of Sennar Province. | | |Post and telegraph offices. A few | | |European shops and good market. | | |Civil population about 30,000. | | |Soil limestone with sand and | | |gravel—healthy; Mosque with high | | |tower. Country S. of Wad Medani | | |becomes thick jungle especially on | | |E. bank. | | | | | |From Wad Medani the shortest road | | |to Sennar leaves the river and | | |goes inland by Sariba, Wad Shenan, | | |&c., meeting the river again at | | |Danagila. | | | Goz El Fil | 5 | 149½ |On island. | | | Ereibab | 1 | 150½ | | | | Kurdugeili | 5 | 155½ | | | | Ganneb | 6½ | 162 |L. About 1¼ miles from R. bank is | | |Shabarga, the nearest point to R. | | |Rahad at H. Sherif Yakub; about 7 | | |miles across. | | | Bagadi | 2 | 164 |L. Large village. | | | Abd El Karim | 6½ | 170½ |R. | | | _H. Sherif | 1¼ | 171¾ |L. Rest house. Desis Yusef_ | | | | | | Doliba | 1¾ | 173½ |L. | | | El Beriab | 4½ | 178 |L. Large village on river bank in | | |open ground. Supplies plentiful. | | | Mouth of River| 2 | 180 |Larger and more important river Dinder | | |than Rahad. Breadth at mouth 120 | | |yards (_see_ page 114, Vol. I). | | | Hamed | 6 | 186 |L. Three miles inland is the large | | |village of Shukaba. | | | Abu Sogra | 6¾ | 192¾ |L. | | | _Danagila_ | 5½ | 198¼ |L. Distant from Wad Medani by | | |direct road 31½ miles. Rest house. | | | Santobar | 2 | 200¼ |L. | | | Banat | 2 | 202¼ |L. | | | Barsi El Fadl | 2¼ | 204½ |R. | | | Wad El Dai | 3 | 207½ |L. | | | Wad El Haddad | ½ | 208 |L. | | | _Wad El Abbas_| 6½ | 214½ |R. Rest house. | | | _Meshra El | 5 | 219½ |L. Rest house. Hagirat_ | | | | | | Habbania | 1 | 220½ |L. | | | Shambata | 5 | 225½ |R. | | | Deim El | 5½ | 231 |L. Mashaikh | | | | | | Sharif | 1½ | 232½ |R. | | | Sennar | 2½ | 235 |L. Now in ruins and deserted, old | | |mosque with high tower still | | |standing. _Vide_ Vol. I. Rest | | |house at Kabush. | | | Abu Geili | — | — | | | | Kassab El Amin| 9 | 244 |R. Opposite large island. | | | _Shekh Talha_ | 6½ | 250½ |R. Rest house. | | | Ereidiba | 2 | 252½ |R. | | | Ereidiba | 2½ | 255 |L. About 2 miles inland—large | | |village. | | | _Abdin_ | 4 | 259 |L. Rest house. | | | Abu Shoka | 3 | 262 | | | | Dakhla Shellal| 7 | 269 |L. | | | Rammash | 8 | 277 |L. | | | Mena Yusef | 6 | 283 |R. | | | Wad El Ghazali| 2 | 285 |L. | | | _Senga_ | 2 | 287 |L. Headquarters of a District and | | |Detachment of Regular Troops here. | | |Rest house. | | | Mena | 1 | 288 |R. People: Fungs and Hawazma; the | | |sheikh Adlan is the descendant of | | |the Fung sultans of Sennar. From | | |here a direct road goes to Lueisa | | |on the R. Dinder, distance about | | |16 miles. | | | El Gazair | 6½ | 294½ |R. | | | Brodras | 7½ | 302 |R. | | | _Karkoj_ | 5 | 307 |R. Rest house. A large straggling | | |village, surrounded by bush and | | |tall grass. It is close to the | | |river, the banks of which are | | |steep. Inhabitants very poor and | | |of various tribes:—Kongeri, | | |Ashraf, Moghrabi, Kamatir, Jaalin | | |and Agalin. Village on high | | |ground, with small khors at | | |intervals running into the river. | | |Soil, limestone mixed with sand | | |and alluvium—subsoil 9 to 10 feet | | |from surface. Three small springs | | |of clear water appear at south end | | |of village, and reach the surface | | |of the steep bank 9 feet from the | | |top. On the L. bank in Nov. there | | |is a large stagnant lagoon, which | | |probably increases the | | |unhealthiness of the site. | | | | | |One hundred and ten hours by steam | | |from Khartoum. | | | | | |Karkoj used to be an important | | |trading centre in the old days for | | |gum arabic, tamarinds, cattle, | | |cotton, coffee (from Abyssinia), | | |vegetables, &c. This used to be | | |the last place where one could lay | | |in stores for further travel. | | | | | |The river here is at high Nile 470 | | |yards broad, average depth 23 | | |feet, current 5 miles per hour; at | | |low Nile the figures are 330 | | |yards, 8 feet, and 1¼ miles | | |respectively. | | | | | |Surroundings bare. Woods, chiefly | | |acacia, &c., begin at some | | |distance off. | | | | | |(Marno took 25 days in a nugger | | |from Khartoum to this point, in | | |February.) | | | | | |The Upper Sennar negro race, the | | |Hameg, now begin to populate both | | |banks; a dirty, indolent race. | | | | | |From Karkoj upwards both banks are | | |highly cultivated and fertile, but | | |only on the narrow strip which is | | |liable to inundation at flood | | |time. Camels become gradually | | |replaced by donkeys and oxen. Too | | |damp for horses; many mosquitos | | |and poisonous flies (_serút_). | | |Much rough cloth woven. | | | | | |Track on R. bank lies through | | |cultivation and occasional thick | | |woods. | | | _Seiru_ | 3 | 310 |L. Rest house. | | | Zumorka | 6 | 316 |R. | | | Lanni | 1 | 317 |L. | | | _Abu Tiga_ | 10½ | 327½ |R. On main track from Karkoj to | | |Roseires. Rest house. | | | Barankwa | ½ | 328 |L. Swarms of birds in autumn. | | |Water channel 700 yards. | | | _Abu Naama_ | 1½ | 329½ |L. Rather less vegetation; soil | | |contains much iron peroxide. | | |Reported immune from fever. Rest | | |house. | | | Rumeila | 3 | 332½ |L. | | | Tangaru | 1½ | 334 |L. El Lakandi R. | | | _Regeiba_ | 6 | 340 |L. Rest house. | | | _Bunzoga_ | 8½ | 348½ |R. Boat building yard (?). Two | | |miles before this the Khor El | | |Malwai comes on L., and a track | | |goes from there to J. Gule. Rest | | |house. | | | H. Sherif | 24 | 372½ |R. Well-known point on river. Ahmed | | |Cultivation considerable. | | | _Bados_ | 11 | 383½ |R. Rest house. | | | _El Gereif_ | 7 | 390½ |R. Village up a back-water. Broad | | |conspicuous belt of dom palms | | |begins, and continues along ridge | | |to Roseires. Rest house. | | | El Karori | 2½ | 393 |R. On L. is mouth of Khor Dunia. | | | Abu Ramad | 9 | 402 |L. | | | _Roseires_[19]| 3 | 405 |R. End of telegraph. Headquarters | | |of a District and residence of | | |British Inspector; small garrison, | | |post and telegraph offices. Old | | |Roseires lies 3 miles further | | |north. Hilly ground, thick dom | | |palms along banks. Mimosa woods to | | |the E. Plenty of game. | | |Obstructions in the river begin | | |some miles before here, and this | | |is the limit of navigation for | | |steamers or boats. About 2 miles | | |south begin the Roseires | | |cataracts. Malarial fever prevails | | |during October and November. The | | |soil here is composed of alluvium | | |overlying granite, in which the | | |quartz and mica are small-grained, | | |evenly distributed throughout, | | |with a minimum of felspar. Less | | |frequently the blocks are of large | | |grained quartz, combined with | | |felspar. The granite has been | | |extensively disintegrated. | | | _Abu Zoghali_ | 8 | 413 |R. Mouth of khor of same name. | | |Rest house. | | | _El Dakhla_ | 11 | 424 |R. Best camping ground is where | | |hospital was established after | | |fight with Ahmed Fedil, 25th | | |December, 1898. The village is | | |over a mile from the river inland. | | |Village Iwan marked on map is | | |deserted. Latter part of road is | | |thick jungle, and several deep | | |khors intersect the path. Rest | | |house. | | | _Abu Gemai_ | 12½ | 436½ |L. Abu Gemai, village on W. bank, | | |about 20 people. Rest house. | | |Sheikh el Imam Ramadan. Open road | | |the greater part of the way, but | | |there are several deep khors | | |bounded by thick jungle. In 11th | | |mile you come to watering place, | | |Ardeiba. | | | Ardeiba | 11 | 447½ |R. Watering place. | | | _Abu Sheneina_| 3½ | 451 |L. Abu Sheneina, a village on W. | | |bank, about 200 people; Sheikh Abd | | |el Wahid Abu Shenein. Rest house. | | | Famaka | 9 | 460 |R. The latter part of road is very | | |rough indeed, going over shoulder | | |of J. Fazogli; very steep and | | |rocky about 2 to 3 miles. | | | Fazogli | 1 | 461 |L. Easy path. --------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------

[Footnote 10: No water here, January, 1901.]

[Footnote 11: There is now (1904) a colony of Baggara Arabs who were sent to this district after the fall of Omdurman (1893).]

[Footnote 12: This road has recently been straightened and improved.]

[Footnote 13: Not the same as Durraba on the Dinder.]

[Footnote 14: This report is on the old route. The new route at times follows the old one and at times the telegraph line, but the watering places are the same on both routes.]

[Footnote 15: On the 28th March, 1902, there were only a few inches of water in the well, and it took an hour to water 13 camels, using 2 girbas.—(Bonham-Carter).]

[Footnote 16: Uninhabited in March, 1902 (Bonham-Carter).]

[Footnote 17: Some of the names in this report will probably be unknown to many guides.]

[Footnote 18: Mafasa has rapidly developed, and now (1904) is about to be made the Head-Quarters of a District.]

[Footnote 19: Rest houses on left bank between Regeiba and Roseires are at M. Gurra, Moya Ahmar, Abkok, and El Disa; on right bank, between El Gereif and Roseires, at Magangani.]