CHAPTER II
=DINING-ROOM CONVENIENCES=
ROLLER TRAY WAGON
An efficient and convenient table placed on casters and wheels and comprising a china closet, drawer for silverware, serving table, and roller tray all in one. This device is invaluable to the housekeeper who does her own work. It saves her many steps in the preparation and the serving of her meals. While she is entertaining at a luncheon, it takes the place of a maid, since the refreshments can be prepared, arranged on the wagon, and rolled out at the appointed time. The prices of a tea wagon made in wicker or some expensive wood are very high, but one like the following illustration can be made at a nominal cost, or it can be made of dry goods boxes for even less.
MATERIALS:
26’ white pine. 1 piece of jack chain No. 14, 18” long, to support top. 1 pair 1½” (butt) hinges to hold top. 12 No. 5 screws, ¾”, to fasten hinges. ½ lb. 5-penny box nails. 2 brass hand bolts to fasten on drawer. 8 No. 10 screws, 2½”, to fasten legs to bottom shelf. 2 furniture casters to put on legs. 2 swivel or baby carriage wheels.
DIMENSIONS:
_Top_: 1 piece 1” thick × 16½” wide × 26½” long. _Sides_: 2 pieces 1” thick × 5” wide × 33½” long, for front and back of body. _Ends_: 2 pieces 1” thick × 5” wide × 13” long, for top of frame. _Handles_: 2 pieces 1” thick × 1” wide × 15” long. _Bottom_: 1 piece 1” thick × 13” wide × 24½” long. _Legs_: 4 pieces 1½” thick × 1½” wide × 32” long. _Ends_: 2 pieces 1” thick × 3½” wide × 12” long, allowing 1” on each end for tenon. _Drawer_: 1 piece 1” thick × 1½” wide × 23½” long, for foundation of drawer.
[Illustration]
_Cleats_: 2 pieces 1” thick × 1” wide × 14” long, to support the drawer. 1 piece 1” thick × 2½” wide × 23½” long, to be used as front to drawer. 1 piece ½” thick × 2½” wide × 23½” long, to be used as back of drawer. 2 pieces ½” thick × 2½” wide × 13½” long, to be used as side of drawer. 1 piece ½” thick × 15” wide × 23½” long, to be used as bottom of drawer. 1 piece ½” thick × 2½” wide × 3½” long, to be used as partition in drawer. _Shelf_: 1 piece 1” thick × 15” wide × 26½” long, to be used as bottom of shelf. _Braces_: 2 pieces 1” thick × 1½” wide × 12” long, to support ends of shelf. _Brackets_: 2 pieces 1” thick × 8” wide × 8” long, to be used as a support for wheel.
[Illustration: Roller tray wagon, including compartment for china and a drawer for silver and linen]
DIRECTIONS:
Take the 2 sides (1” × 5” × 33½”) and round each end in the shape of a half circle, boring a 1” hole in each end of side piece to hold handles (1” × 1” × 15”). Fit bottom on inside of box and nail it. Mortise 3½” from the top of the legs to fit cross pieces, 1” × 3½” × 12”. Make a ¼” mortise on the legs 9” from the bottom for the support of the bottom shelf. Measure 2½” from the top of the leg to put tenon for the front drawer support. Construct the opposite end of the table in the same way. The upper top of table, showing the lid and handle, should be fastened to top after the table is made. In making the frame for the drawer, 2½” deep × 13½” wide × 23½” long, nail the front and back to the sides. Then nail the bottom of the drawer to the inside of this frame with one partition nailed crosswise the center of the drawer. Place handles on the front of the drawer about 3” from each end. Screw on the 2 pieces placed 9” from bottom of the leg, with 2½” No. 10 screws. Cut the bottom shelf out 1½” at each corner, fit to the legs, and screw. This shelf must be stationary. Brackets, 1” × 8” × 8”, are screwed on at one end of the shelf to be used as supports to which the wheels are fastened. The drawer may be used for silverware and to keep the linen. The side used for silverware should be lined with felt or outing. The table should be well dressed by sandpapering, staining, and polishing it. Do not varnish it because this does not make so attractive a table as the mission stain.
SIDEBOARD
(MADE OF DRY GOODS BOXES)
A unique article made of dry goods boxes, which may be used in the dining room as a sideboard or in the kitchen as a cupboard. Two dry goods boxes are joined together to make the lower section, one end on each box being removed to be used as shelves in the sideboard. The upper section with its three shelves is made from pieces of other boxes. On two of the shelves brass hooks are arranged at equal distances apart, on which the cups hang. A groove may be made under the lower shelf and on the top shelf, in which the small plates and saucers rest. The two drawers, made according to dimensions and out of pieces of boxes, can be lined with felt or outing flannel to hold the silverware. Attractive curtains may be made of some suitable material and hung in front of the upper section. This is especially an interesting problem for boys in a school to work out.
MATERIALS:
3 large boxes for lower and upper sections of sideboard. 3 small boxes to be used for drawers. 2 pairs 1½” (butt) hinges to fasten doors. ½ lb. 6-penny nails to build sideboard. 2 metal knobs to be used on lower doors. 24 brass cup and saucer hooks. 2 hand bolts to be used on front of drawers. Sandpaper and stain.
DIMENSIONS: Lower Section:
_Body_: 2 boxes 13” deep × 12½” wide × 26” long. _Shelves_: 2 pieces 1” thick × 12” wide × 24” long. _Cleats_: 4 pieces ½” thick × ¾” wide × 12” long, to be used under the shelves. _Doors_: 4 pieces ¾” thick × 2” wide × 26” long, to be used for upright pieces. 4 pieces ¾” thick × 2” wide × 8” long, to be used as crosspieces. 2 pieces ½” thick × 9” wide × 23” long, to be used as panels. _Legs_: 4 pieces ½” thick × 2¾” wide × 36” long. 4 pieces ½” thick × 2½” wide × 36” long.
[Illustration]
Upper Section:
_Body_: 1 box 5” deep × 18” wide × 26” long. 2 small boxes 5” deep × 12” wide × 18” long. _Drawer_: 1 box 5” deep × 18” wide × 24” long.
DIRECTIONS:
Boxes which can be most easily converted into the desired sections must be selected. Two boxes (13” × 12½” × 26”) are joined together to form the body of the lower section of the sideboard. Remove the ends of the boxes, to be used as shelves, using the side of a larger box for the top of this section. The shelves are fastened in by 4 cleats (½” × ¾” × 12”) nailed crosswise the partition and the sides of the section. Four strips (½” × 2¾” × 36”) and four strips (½” × 2¼” × 36”) are taken from the third box to make the legs of the cabinet. The doors are fastened on with hinges, using two metal knobs in front of the doors to open them. The foundation of the upper section is made of a box (5” deep × 18” × 26”). The three crosspieces used as shelves are made from the two small boxes (5” × 12” × 18”). Make the drawer of a box (5” × 18” × 24”), putting a partition through the center of the box and on the inside if two drawers be desired. Place two hand bolts on the front of the drawer. Sandpaper, stain, and polish the sideboard.
[Illustration]
SCREEN
[Illustration]
A screen is useful in many ways in the home. It adds a great deal to the appearance of a bedroom. By putting it around the bed one may often avoid draughts. In the dining room it is indispensable in the front of a serving table while the meal is going on. The illustration above shows a two-panelled screen which may be easily made in the home, or it furnishes good material for a woodwork problem to be used in the school. It is made of oak and covered with burlap. By adding to the number of pieces the third panel may be made with ease.
MATERIALS:
3 feet of oak. ¼ lb. 8-penny nails to be used in making frame. 3 1” (butt) hinges, with screws, to join panels together. 1 box of brass-headed tacks to fasten burlap to frame. Sandpaper and stain. 3½ yds. burlap to cover panels.
DIMENSIONS:
_Frame_: 4 pieces 1” thick × 1” wide × 5’ long, to be used for upright pieces. 6 pieces 1” thick × 1” wide × 2’ long, to be used for crosspieces. DIRECTIONS:
Measure and saw the pieces according to required dimensions. Cut the joints and nail the three crosspieces to the two upright pieces. Make the other panel in the same way and join the two together with the three hinges. Sandpaper, stain, and polish the frame. After it has dried thoroughly, cover it with the burlap on the outside, tacking this on with the brass-headed tacks.