CHAPTER III

=PORCH EQUIPMENT=

ICELESS REFRIGERATOR NO. 1

Country homes without ice houses and too far from town to have access to manufactured ice may have an iceless refrigerator as a good substitute. This convenience comprises a simple wooden frame with a covering of canton flannel, burlap, Indian-head cloth or linen crash made to fit so that little air is admitted into it. Wicks made of the same material as the cover are tacked on top of each side of the cover and extend over into the pan of water sitting on top of the frame. This water is taken up by the wicks and carried down on the sides of the cover by capillary attraction when evaporation takes place, drawing the heat from the inside and lowering the temperature. The more rapid the evaporation, the lower the temperature. Tests have shown that if the refrigerator is kept in a place where the air circulates around it freely, a temperature of 50 degrees Fahrenheit may be obtained.

MATERIALS:

40’ of white pine. 1 pair of 1½” (butt) hinges to fasten the door. 1 2” gate hook to close screen door. ½ lb. 5-penny nails to build frame. 3½ yds. wire screening to cover frame. 4 sq. ft. sheet zinc to make shelves. 1 pt. white paint. 1 can white enamel. 1 square pan for top of refrigerator. 1 large pan for bottom. Sandpaper. 2 cards of snap hooks and eyes to put on cover. 5 yds. white canton flannel.

DIMENSIONS:

_Frame_: 4 pieces ½” thick × 3” wide × 48” long, for upright pieces. 16 pieces 1” thick × 1” wide × 16” long, to be used as crosspieces for top, bottom, and shelves. _Door_: 2 pieces ½” thick × 3” wide × 39” long, for upright pieces. 2 pieces 1” thick × 1” wide × 16” long, for crosspieces.

[Illustration]

DIRECTIONS:

Make the frame 3½’ high with twelve crosspieces tacked to the four posts, nailing the first 4 strips 9” from the bottom of the frame, and the remaining 8 strips about 11” apart. An 18½” square frame is made of wood and nailed on top of the posts. The corners of this square are mitered or lapped over and tacked together. Use a biscuit pan to fit in top of the square to hold the water. The whole refrigerator should stand in a larger pan which catches the drippings from the cover and keeps away the insects. The screen door is made 39” long × 16” wide, which is joined to the frame with hinges and fastens with a hook. Three movable shelves with perforations in them are made of zinc. Cover the whole frame with wire screening to protect it from the flies. When the frame is finished it should be painted white and enameled. This will permit of its being washed every day. A covering of white canton flannel is made to fit the screen, with the smooth side out, care being taken that the cover comes to the lower edge of the frame. The wicks are made half the width of the sides and tacked on the top edge of each side. These must be long enough to extend 3” over into the water. Strips of canton flannel 2” wide are tacked all around the sides and the top of the frame, and the eyes are sewed on these. White tape may be used for this purpose if more convenient. Sew one row of hooks on the edge of the covering near the latch and the other just opposite the opening, with the hem to extend far enough over on each side to cover crack at the edge of door. This permits the door to be opened without unfastening the hooks, keeping out the warm outside air and at the same time retaining the cool air inside the refrigerator. Hook the covering around the top also. Place the refrigerator in a shady place where the air will circulate around it freely. Keep the wicks in a supply of fresh water in the top pan. The water is taken down the sides by capillary attraction, and when evaporation takes place the heat is taken from the inside thereby lowering the temperature.

[Illustration]

[Illustration:

First View Second View Third View Iceless refrigerator]

ICELESS REFRIGERATOR NO. 2

Another type of iceless refrigerator which appears more crude can be made at a cost of $1.80. In this a cotton sack is used for the covering. This refrigerator has proved more satisfactory than one would suppose. The butter and milk from several cows has been kept in a model of this type at ten degrees cooler than the outside air. It might be well to use cotton flannel for the covering instead of ducking because when the cloth is wet evaporation takes place more rapidly.

MATERIALS:

24½’ yellow pine. 5½ yds. canton flannel. 15 10-penny nails. 1 No. 2 galvanized tub.

DIMENSIONS:

_Stem_: 1 piece 2” thick × 4” wide × 5’ long. _Shelves:_ 2 pieces 1” thick × 32” wide × 32” long. 1 piece 1” thick × 20” wide × 20” long. _Supports_: 2 pieces 2” thick × 4” wide × 18” long to be used as braces for the foundation. _Cleats_: 4 pieces 2” thick × 4” wide × 30” long to support shelves.

[Illustration]

DIRECTIONS:

Nail the piece (2” × 4” × 18”) on the side of the stem making it even with the bottom piece. Saw a 2” base out on the side of the stem and nail the other piece measuring 2” × 4” × 18”. Measure 25” from the bottom of the stem and nail on 2 cleats to support the shelf. Cut space in the center of piece (1” × 32” × 32”) large enough to fit the stem and nail it to the cleats, thus making the first shelf. From this point measure 20” and nail 2 cleats on the stem to support the second shelf (1” × 32” × 32”). Measure 13” from the top of the stem and nail on shelf (1” × 20” × 20”) after cutting an opening (2” × 4”) in the center of shelf. The curtain is made of 4 widths of the canton flannel measuring 66” in length with a draw string put at the top and bottom of the curtain. This makes the refrigerator dust and fly proof.

UMBRELLA STAND

A good problem to be used in woodwork classes in the school or to be made by boys in the home. It will be found appropriate and useful in the reception hall or on the porch. It is built of dry goods boxes, with a five-cent pan used in the bottom to catch the drippings from the umbrellas.

MATERIALS:

1 box 9” deep × 12” wide × 30” high. ¼ lb. eight-penny nails to make the frame. 1 small round tin pan to fit in bottom of the stand. Sandpaper and stain.

[Illustration]

DIMENSIONS:

4 pieces ¼” thick × 2½” wide × 30” long, to be used as upright pieces. 4 pieces ¼” thick × 2¼” wide × 30” long, to be used as upright pieces. 6 pieces ½” thick × 3” wide × 12” long, to be used as crosspieces. 6 pieces ½” thick × 3” wide × 11” long, to be used as crosspieces. _Bottom_: 1 piece 12” thick × 12” wide × 12” long.

[Illustration]

DIRECTIONS:

Make three boxes of the six pieces (½” × 3” × 12”) and six pieces (½” × 3” × 11”), putting the bottom, 12” square, on the bottom box to be used as foundation of the frame. Make a hole in this bottom large enough to hold a round tin pan. This hole should be cut before nailing the piece on the bottom of the box. Nail the four long pieces (measuring ¼” × 2¼” × 30”) on the end of the three boxes, placing the boxes seven inches apart on the frame. Nail four pieces (measuring ¼” × 2½” × 30”) on the ends of the boxes to extend one-fourth inch over the first four strips which were nailed on the boxes. Sandpaper, stain, and polish.

BLACKING BOX

A necessary and useful home convenience made of a box, with a cover made in two sections and joined with hinges. It is a time-saver to the busy housewife who has to go so often in search for blacking and polish before she can get the children ready for school. It serves as a reminder to the busy farmer who is disposed to go to town or to church before giving his shoes a dressing.

[Illustration]

MATERIALS:

1 box. ½ lb. six-penny nails to construct box. 1 pair 1½” (butt) hinges to fasten top. Sandpaper and stain.

DIMENSIONS:

_Body_: 5¾” deep × 13¾” wide × 14¼” long (inside measurements). _Top_: 2 pieces ½” thick × 8” wide × 6¼” long. _Legs_: 4 pieces ⅜” thick × 1⅜” wide × 13¼” long. 4 pieces ⅜” thick × 1¾” wide × 13¼” long.

DIRECTIONS:

Remove the cover from box (5¾” deep × 13¾” × 14¼”) and nail the legs on, making them seven inches longer than the outside depth of the box. Nail one half of the cover on top of box, allowing it to project evenly all round the edge of the box. Fasten the other half of the cover to this half with hinges. Sandpaper, stain, and polish.

[Illustration]

TOWEL ROLLER

A towel roller built so simply that any boy on the farm would take pleasure in working out the problem. It is much easier to keep a clean towel in the right place when the proper place is provided for the towel to be kept. This convenience should be a joy to every tired farmer when he comes in to partake of a meal. Again, the tendency of all children to throw the towels about the place is a great nuisance to the housewife. This rack provides that the towel be sewed together and placed on the roller, which is then slipped into the groove made to hold it.

[Illustration]

MATERIALS:

3’ of poplar. ¼ lb. 8-penny nails. Sandpaper and stain.

DIMENSIONS:

_Foundation_: 1 piece ¾” thick × 5” wide × 24” long, to which the brackets are nailed. _Brackets_: 2 pieces 5” thick × 5” wide × 5” long. _Rod_: 1 piece 1¼” thick × 1¾” wide × 24” long.

DIRECTIONS:

The brackets are made any desired shape, with a hole a half-inch in diameter bored in the centre of each piece. A slit is cut in one bracket from the hole to the top for the end of the rod to slip in and out. Round the piece (1¼” × 1¾” × 24”) for the rod. At each end cut a tenon one inch in diameter. Nail the end pieces to the board (¾” × 5” × 24”). Insert the rod into the hole in the one end piece and slip it into the slit at the other end. Sandpaper, stain, and polish.

PORCH SWING

An inexpensive mission style swing made of oak with space long enough for two to sit in and broad enough to be used for lounging purposes. A pad made of burlap and stuffed with an old discarded quilt will add to the comfort of the swing.

DIMENSIONS:

_Frame_: 4 pieces, ¾” thick × 3” wide × 43” long for rails in frame. 2 pieces, ¾” thick × 3” wide × 22” long for ends of frame. _Posts_: 2 pieces, 1½” thick × 2” wide × 19” long for front posts. 4 pieces 1½” thick × 2” wide × 23½” long for arms and back posts. _Slats_: 14 pieces ¼” thick × 3” wide × 14” long for back and end slats. 16 pieces ½” thick × 3” wide × 20” long for slats in seat. _Cleats_: 2 pieces ½” thick × 2” wide × 48” long.

DIRECTIONS:

Mortise the end posts for the back and the front, also arm posts. Mortise the back and front and end rails of the frame to fit the end posts. Nail and glue them into position. Round the edges of the seat slats and nail to cleats on the front and back of the frame. Mortise the back and end slats, fitting them into the rails and frame and fasten with strong glue. Use support made of iron and fastened to the seat with screws to give strength to the mortises formed at the arms and front posts. The chains to suspend the swing are fastened to holes made in these iron supports. Make the back of the swing first, then the ends and front, nailing the seat slats in after the glue has fastened the mortises securely together.

[Illustration]