CHAPTER V
=POULTRY DEVICES=
POULTRY HOUSE
A portable house placed on runners is shown in the following cut. It can be easily moved by four men carrying it, or be drawn by hitching a horse to the ends of the runners. A house of this type has many advantages over the stationary house because it can be moved into the field after the grain is cut, into the orchard, and into the different fields where the chickens can get plenty of fresh green food.
MATERIALS:
Use Size No. of Length Board pieces measure Sills (runners) 4” × 6” 2 12’ 48’ Joists 2” × 4” 3 14’ 28’ Studs and braces 2” × 3” 13 12’ 78’ Rafters 2” × 4” 3 16’ 32’ ---- Total 186’ ⅞” Matched flooring (floor and sides) 340’ ⅞” Sheathing, surfaced one side 100’ Roofing paper, 1 roll. Windows, hardware, etc.
DIRECTIONS:
A good location is the first consideration in the building of a poultry house. Select a well drained spot, facing the southeast and large enough to make comfortable quarters for the chickens.
The house is built of any kind of durable and well-seasoned lumber. The kind of material used in making the floor will depend largely on the soil and the money to be spent in the construction of the house. Board floors are often used but they are more susceptible to rats. Cement floors are more easily cleaned and more sanitary, and not so expensive in a locality where plenty of gravel is available. A board floor must be raised several inches from the ground as a protection from rats and to allow for runners to be placed underneath the house.
[Illustration: A portable poultry house, showing the exterior and interior]
Roosts are placed on the same level with each other next to the end or back walls and from 6” to 10” above the dropping boards, which are 2½” from the floor. Roosts may be stationary as in the cut, or they may be fastened by hinges to the walls and raised to clean the dropping board.
Roost spacing will depend upon the size of the fowls, but a 10” space to each fowl is usually sufficient. They must be put 15” apart.
Nests made 14” square are built under the dropping boards around the walls of the house as shown in cut. A 4” piece of wood is placed on the side, which drops as a door in front of the nests.
Windows as shown in the cut are more expensive and not as good as a front made of wood extending about 2’ from the bottom. Wire screening, admitting better ventilation and more sunlight, is tacked over the rest of the opening in the front. A curtain may be made of unbleached muslin and fastened on a pole at the top of the open front, which may be lowered as a protection in bad weather.
Make the roof of some water tight material and cover the walls on the inside to protect the fowls from draughts.
_Nests._--Comfortable and convenient quarters must be furnished the sitting hen. The location of the nest must be in a quiet, dark place to keep the hen from becoming restless. A box fifteen inches square and twelve inches high, with a narrow strip four to five inches wide at the bottom of the open front of the box, makes a comfortable nest. Barrels or half-barrels or nests made of a piece of sod will also be comfortable quarters for the sitting hen. The nests must be well lined with hay, straw, or excelsior. Both the nests and the hen must be thoroughly dusted with insect powder before the sitting time comes.
_Hatching and Rearing._--There are two methods used in the hatching and rearing of chickens--the natural, when the chicks are hatched and reared by a hen, and the artificial, when they are hatched in incubators and brooded in houses indoors or out-of-doors. The natural method will be found to be more satisfactory when dealing with a small number of chickens. A small number of hens, if managed with system and care, will produce a large number of chickens at a very small cost.
Care must be taken in the selection of the eggs to be used for hatching purposes. Select well-formed eggs which are regular in shape and size and which are neither too large nor too small. They should come from healthy hens of one breed and should be smooth and of one color. Eggs must be kept in a dry, cool place and at a temperature of from fifty to sixty degrees Fahrenheit. The fertility of an egg weakens with age; so they must be kept only a few days before they are to be set. The number of eggs to be put under each hen will vary with the season, the size of the hen, and the size of the eggs; but it is usually safe to put about thirteen eggs under a hen of average size.
_Egg Tester._--Test the eggs in a dark room on the seventh and fourteenth days for the removal of infertile eggs. This may be done by a very simple home-made tester made of a pasteboard or wooden box, with a hole the size of an egg bored in the front, and an opening in the top through which the smoke is to pass. If a wooden box with a bottom is used, an opening must be made in front, with a door so as to put the lamp in. A box without a bottom may be used and simply set right over the lamp. Either a lamp, candle, or lantern may be used on the inside of the box. Holding the egg in front of the box and letting the light shine through it will show the condition of the egg. An infertile egg will be clear, while a fertile egg has a spider-like center with threads leading out from it. All infertile eggs must be removed.
[Illustration]
Poultry is classified as the egg breeds, the meat breeds, the general-purpose breeds, and the ornamental breeds.
The egg breeds are small fowls which mature quickly. They are very active, but not good chickens to be used for setting purposes. They are good layers, and they lay a great many white-shelled eggs, for which there is a great demand on some markets. The age of maturity for this breed is from four and one-half to five months. The Leghorns and the Minorcas are the principal representatives of this breed. The single-combed white Leghorn has been the most popular.
The meat breeds are large fowls with long necks and heavy coats of feathers; and they lay a comparatively small number of brown-shelled eggs. They are slow in movement, with little desire to forage. They make fine mothers, and for this reason they make good fowls to be used for setting. The Brahmas, Cochins, and Langshanks are the principal fowls of this breed.
The general-purpose breeds occupy a medium place between the egg and meat breeds as to size, egg production, and meat production. For these characteristics they are especially recommended to the farmer who wishes both egg and meat fowls. They lay a number of brown-shelled eggs and they make splendid mothers. The Plymouth Rocks, Wyandottes, Orphingtons, and Rhode Island Reds are the best varieties of this breed.
The ornamental breeds are ornamental both in character and purpose, and for this reason they are not practical for use on the farm.
_Feeding._--The farmer has often become discouraged by the elaborate rations which are recommended by poultrymen to be used in feeding the chickens. While some of the by-products of industries, such as Linseed Meal and Meat Meal are necessary, most of the feed used in poultry raising may be raised on the farm. It is well to be familiar with the different values of foods fed to the chickens, for they like a change in their rations, and it is necessary that they have it. If the food contains too much fat, the hens will become too fat, which will lessen their usefulness as egg producers; while if the food contains too much protein, some symptoms of indigestion will result. It is hard to determine the right amount of fat and protein to be fed to the chickens, for this varies to suit conditions and the purpose for which it is fed.
Broad Ration Food Available Protein Fat 2 parts wheat bran .244 .906 1 part wheat middlings .128 .607 1 part cornmeal .079 .764 ⅒ part meat meal .066 .033 ----- ----- .517 2.310 Ratio 1: 4.4
Narrow Ration Food Available Protein Fat 2 parts wheat bran .244 .906 1 part wheat mids .128 .607 ⅒ part linseed meal .029 .048 ⅒ part meat meal .066 .033 ----- ----- .467 1.594 Ratio 1: 3.4
Young chicks should be fed a dry or wet feed forty-eight hours after they are hatched. Nature has already provided them with yolk of egg, which must be digested before they are given more food. Their first feed must be fine grit or a drink of sour milk. In two hours after the first feeding they may be given dry oat flakes with an egg which has been boiled for an hour, or a Johnny cake made of ten parts of cornmeal, two parts of wheat middlings, two parts of wheat bran, mixed with skimmed milk and baked. Change this diet after a week to a dry ration--for example, two parts of cracked wheat, two parts of oat flakes, four parts of cracked corn, one part of rice, and one part of millet. Plenty of green food and sour milk should be fed to them. Feed them often, but in small proportions. Let them take plenty of exercise. It is important to keep the hen up and allow the chicks to run out until they are weaned.
DRY MASH HOPPER NO. 1
There are many kinds of dry mash hoppers on the market but it is difficult to find one that is not wasteful. This hopper which is made of poplar is easily made and it has been found to be very successful. It may be built of the desired length and made to hold the required amount of dry mash. The most important detail in the building of this hopper is the slope of the bottom which must be at an angle of forty-five degrees with the wall of the henhouse. It must be built well off the floor with a roost placed for the hens to stand on while they are feeding. This will keep the litter out of the hopper. The wire netting must be of one-quarter inch square mesh which is fastened to the hopper and stretched to the bottom of the trough at its lowest point.
MATERIALS:
12½’ poplar. 1 lb. 6-penny nails. 16 ¾” No. 8 screws. 32 No. 10 screws. 2 pairs of 1½” (butt) hinges. 1 piece of ¼” mesh wire. 2” × 2” gate hooks.
DIMENSIONS:
_Body_: 2 pieces 1” thick × 5” wide × 26” long, to be used as the ends of the hopper. 2 pieces 1” thick × 9” wide × 19” long, to be used as the top and the bottom of the hopper. 1 piece 1” thick × 19” wide × 26” long, to be used as back of the hopper. 1 piece 1” thick × 19” wide × 17” long, to be used as front of hopper. _Trough_: 1 piece 1” thick × 4” wide × 19” long, to be used as front of trough. 1 piece 1” thick × 5” wide × 19” long, to be used as the lid in the front of trough. 2 pieces 1” thick × 4” wide × 9” long, to be used as sides of trough. _Roost_: 1 piece 1” thick × 2” wide × 21” long, to be used as front of the roost. 2 pieces 1” thick × 2” wide × 15” long, to be used as sides of roost.
DIRECTIONS:
Take the two end pieces (1” × 5” × 26”) and cut the tops at an angle of 60 degrees and the bottom of these ends at an angle of 45 degrees. Nail the bottom piece (1” × 9” × 19”) to these end pieces and then nail on the back (1” × 9” × 26”).
[Illustration]
The front piece (1” × 19” × 17”) is then nailed on the hopper.
The two end pieces (1” × 4” × 9”) to be used on the trough are cut at an angle of forty-five degrees at one end and nailed on each side of the bottom of the hopper as shown in the illustration. Then the front of the trough (1” × 4” × 19”) is nailed to the sides. Tack the wire mesh over the opening in the trough and hinge the front piece (1” × 5” × 19”) on the front of the trough with one pair of 1½” (butt) hinges. The other pair of hinges is used to fasten the top (1” × 9” × 19”) on the hopper.
Make the roost by nailing the two sides (1” × 2” × 15”) to the front (1” × 2” × 21”). Fasten this frame on the sides of the hopper with two two-inch gate hooks as shown in illustration.
The hopper when completed is fastened to the sides of the wall of the henhouse with thirty-two number ten screws at a convenient height to the chickens.
[Illustration]
DRY MASH HOPPER NO. 2
This model is constructed very much like the hopper already described with the exception of the four compartments which provide for a balanced ration for the chickens. It is not nailed to the wall but rests on the floor.
MATERIALS:
12½’ poplar. 1 lb. 6-penny nails. 8 ¾” No. 8 screws. 1 pair of 1½” steel butts. 1 oz. No. 16 wire staples. 12” of No. 4 mesh wire 36” wide.
DIMENSIONS:
_Body_: 2 pieces 1” thick × 6” wide × 2’ 8” long to be used as sides of the hopper. 1 piece 1” thick × 6” wide × 16” long to be used as bottom of the hopper. 1 piece 1” thick × 1’ 8” wide × 2’ 8” long to be used as back of hopper. 2 pieces 1” thick × 2” wide × 1’ 8” long and 1” thick × 6” wide × 1’ 8” long to be used as the lid of the hopper. 1 piece 1” thick × 1’ 8” wide × 2’ long to be used as front of hopper. 3 pieces 1” thick × 6” wide × 2’ 6” long to be used as partitions for making the equal compartments in the hopper. _Trough_: 2 pieces 1” thick × 4” wide × 10” long to be used as ends of trough. 2 pieces 1” thick × 4” wide × 1’ 8” long to be used as front and back of trough. 3 pieces 1” thick × 4” wide × 4” long to be used as partitions in the trough, making four equal compartments.
DIRECTIONS:
Nail the two end pieces (1” × 6” × 2’ 8”) to the bottom piece (1” × 6” × 16”). Then nail the back piece (1” × 1’ 8” × 2’ 8”) and the front piece (1” × 1’ 8” × 2’ 4”) to the ends of the hopper. Nail the partitions (1” × 6” × 2’ 6”) to the back and front of the hopper making four equal compartments.
The trough is made by nailing the two end pieces (1” × 4” × 10”) to the side of the hopper. Nail the front (1” × 4” × 1’ 8”) and the back (1” × 4” × 1’ 8”) to the ends of the trough. The partitions (1” × 4” × 10”) are nailed to the front and back of the trough, making four equal compartments. Cover the opening in the front of the trough with 12” of No. 4 mesh wire 36” wide.
Hinge the two top pieces (1” × 2” × 1’8” and 1” × 6” × 1’8”) together with one pair of 1½” steel (butt) hinges. Then nail this top piece to the back of the hopper with the narrow strip even with the edge of the top end of the back.
[Illustration]
[Illustration]
RACK FOR OAT-SPROUTING TRAYS
The importance of giving poultry green feed throughout the year cannot be over-emphasized. This sprouting tray is very convenient in order that this food be furnished the chickens. It is a simple construction, made of yellow pine, and a device that can be made by any farmer at a minimum cost. It is advisable to lay off all the material before beginning to build the rack, to avoid confusion in the measurements.
MATERIALS:
23½ feet of yellow pine. 28 lbs. of 28-gage galvanized metal to make sprouting trays. 1 lb. 8-penny nails for building rack.
DIMENSIONS:
_Top_: 2 pieces 1” thick × 2” wide × 2’6” long. _Bottom_: 2 pieces 1” thick × 2” wide × 2’6” long. _Corners_: 4 pieces 2” thick × 4” wide × 6” long for upright corners. _Brace_: 1 piece 1” thick × 2” wide × 6’6” long. _Cleats_: 14 pieces 1” thick × 2” wide × 2’6” long, to hold trays of same proportions.
DIRECTIONS:
Take 2 upright pieces (2” × 4” × 6”) and nail to bottom (1” × 2” × 2’6”). Measure a distance of two inches from the top and nail on first cleat (1” × 2” × 2’6”). Cleats are nailed on the back of the frame even with the ends of the upright pieces (2” × 4” × 6”). Nail brace (1” × 2” × 6’6”) diagonally from one corner to the other. Nail the first cleat 9 inches from the bottom edge of the upright piece. All the other cleats must be nailed 8 inches apart. In each of the sprouting trays a hole ¼ of an inch in diameter is bored to allow the water to drain out from the tray.
[Illustration]
_Dust Boxes._--Dust boxes are necessary during the winter months to keep the chickens from wallowing in the dirt, as this is the method used by them to cleanse themselves. A box four feet by four feet will be large enough to accommodate fifty chickens. Fine, light, dry dust should be kept in these boxes, and they should be placed in the sunlight and where they may be easily reached by the chickens.
_Drinking Vessel._--Should be large enough to hold sufficient water to last twenty-four hours. They must be elevated in some way to keep the dirt from getting into them. A practical drinking vessel is made of a Mason glass jar. Make perforations in the top of the jar with a nail and tack two strips of wood across the top crosswise to raise the jar from the saucer or plate. This allows the water to flow freely from the jar as fast as the chickens can drink it from the saucer, and the covered jar keeps the drinking water clean.
[Illustration]
_Brooder._--A simple and convenient chicken brooder may be made of an old wooden tub which is turned upside down on a platform with the bottom of the tub knocked out, and a covering placed over the top. This, with windows cut in the sides of the tub, gives a better ventilation for the chickens. A door through which the chickens enter is cut in the front. Outside of the brooder and on one end of the platform is a simple watering device supplying the chickens with fresh water.
[Illustration]