CHAPTER XI
ORNAMENTAL PLANTING
As the beauty and picturesqueness of an estate are so dependent on the disposition of its single trees, groups and plantations, the forester should never lose sight of the fact, even when dealing with plantations that are mainly intended for the value of the timber produced.
In ornamental planting one of the principal things to bear in mind is to allow sufficient space for each of the permanent standards to develop its true and natural character. Instead, therefore, of planting indiscriminately and in a sort of haphazard way, have a fixed idea, and only plant on a regular and well-matured plan. Should the individual standards be considered stiff or unsightly for the first few years, a good plan is to fill up the spaces between them with small-growing trees and shrubs, these being removed subsequently as necessity demands, but always before damage to the permanent specimens has been brought about by too close contact. The habit of the tree or shrub, and the size to which it will ultimately attain are points that should never be lost sight of in ornamental planting. Far too often the mistake is made of planting specimen trees too near roads and buildings, or, quite as bad, too close to each other. This is a most unfortunate mistake, as it sooner or later necessitates the sacrifice of specimens when their full beauty is probably developed, or when they can least be spared.
In the case of both hard-wooded and coniferous, the latter in particular, the trees are planted when young and small, and ample room is supposed to be given to them; but, as they grow up and near perfect development, the spread of branches soon points out that a great mistake has been made in the space of ground allotted, and that the ultimate size to which the particular specimen would attain had never, at the time of planting, been duly considered. There is little left then to be done but either to put up with crowded and ill-formed specimens, or to attempt their removal to more suitable quarters. The latter, in the case of trees that have been left undisturbed for many years, and when tap and side roots have been sent down to a great depth for safe anchorage, is quite out of the question, the only remaining way out of the evil being to sacrifice the specimen by having it stubbed out and removed. In any case, in the event of one tree encroaching too closely on another, no time should be lost in deciding which is to be removed, for, if they crowd into and interfere with each other, the branches on that side will get thin and die off, and the tree will thus lose the uniformity of appearance on which its whole beauty depends. Should crowding of specimen trees be permitted for even a few years, partial disfiguration of the trees will have been brought about, and it will take years of careful management to restore them to their original beauty.
In order to plant with any degree of certainty as to future results, it is absolutely necessary to become first of all well acquainted with the nature and habit of every tree planted, as also the properties and peculiarities of the various soils, and aspect and position of the ground to be planted.
Probably no other branch of forestry requires sound judgment and correct ideas to such an extent as the laying out of parks and grounds, or, in other words, landscape and ornamental planting—and this knowledge can only be attained by perseverance, investigation, and study.
In selecting sites for the various trees, it will be well to bear in mind that certain species are better suited than others for planting in exposed places, for using in particular soils, and for inserting in either dry or damp ground.
By the lake or pond side the =Deciduous Cypress= (_Taxodium distichum_), the =Bhoton Pine= (_Pinus excelsa_), the beautiful cut-leaved =Imperial Alder= (_Alnus glutinosa imperialis_), the =Golden= and =Purple Willows= may all be planted with the best chances of success; whereas none of these would thrive well on dry or sandy soils. Should chalk or calcareous soil crop up, we have good subjects in the =Fern-leaved Beech= (_Fagus sylvatica asplenifolia_), the =Cephalonian= and =Spanish Silver Firs= (_Abies cephalonica_ and _A. Pinsapo_) and many of the =Pyrus= family; while, where only a small quantity of loam overlies the gravel, the =Scotch= and =Cluster Pines= (_Pinus sylvestris_ and _P. Pinaster_), the pretty and far from common =Manna Ash= (_Fraxinus Ornus_), and many others may be successfully planted. In good, rich soil, and where the position is fairly sheltered, there are no end of ornamental trees, both hard-wooded and coniferous, that may be planted. Some of the =Magnolias=, but particularly _Magnolia stellata_, _M. acuminata_, and _M. Umbrella_ should find a place, while the =Juneberry= (_Amelanchier canadensis_), the =Cornelian Cherry= (_Cornus Mas_), and various =Thorns= should not be neglected. In exposed places plant clumps of the =Corsican= and =Austrian Pines= (_Pinus laricio_ and _P. austriaca_), following up with the hardy =Spruces= and =Cypresses=. Such dainty conifers as the =Japanese Cryptomeria= (_C. japonica_), the =Elegant Cryptomeria= (_C. elegans_), =Fitzroya patagonica=, =Prince Albert’s Fir= (_Tsuga Mertensiana_,) and =Umbrella Pine= (_Sciadopitys verticillata_) must have cosy corners and good soil to show their beauty to perfection.
=Pitting and Planting.=—The pits for the reception of ornamental trees should be well formed: that is to say, should be made of sufficiently large size for the specimens to be planted—indeed, it is always preferable to dig out pits of a greater size than are required, thus allowing of a quantity of broken-up soil being placed beneath and around the roots. In any case, have the bottom and side of each pit thoroughly broken up, and should the soil be found to be of inferior quality, it is best to substitute that of a more desirable kind such as is known to be suitable for the wants of the particular specimen. In removing large specimen trees great care should be exercised—first, that the roots are uninjured, or if at all, in a very small degree; second, that a good ball of earth is attached; and, third, that replanting is delayed as short a time as possible. Have the pit, for the reception of the tree, dug out and prepared before the specimen is lifted. Lift carefully by undermining the roots, and digging out a deep trench at a reasonable distance from the stems, the distance from the stem to be regulated by the root spread, size of the specimen, etc. In order to avoid falling apart, the ball of earth should be bound with a strong mat or tarpaulin, the ends being made fast around the stem.
A stout low-wheeled truck has been found a most convenient appliance for removing the specimen; but in the case of large and heavy trees the common timber wheels, or janker, may be found of great service. The truck to which we refer should be specially made, and should be of the following dimensions: length, 5 ft.; width, 3 ft.; on wheels 1 ft. 3 in. in diameter, these being placed so as to be below the level of the body, thus avoiding contact with the load when that is either longer or broader than the specified dimensions. The framework should be of stout oak, and the bottom 3 in. thick boarding. The timber wheels, or janker, being an adjunct of forest appliances, is always at hand, and does away with the necessity of procuring any of the elaborate and costly carriages usually recommended for transplanting large trees and shrubs. The tree being placed in the pit opened for its reception, the roots should be spread out and the soil replaced and trampled firmly, and afterwards well watered.
=Staking the Trees.=—Next to careful planting and watering a matter of the most vital importance—but one that, unfortunately, is too often lost sight of—is the efficient staking or otherwise securing of large transplanted trees. The great strain and consequent damage to the roots of large transplants when allowed to rock about with every gust of wind is not only highly injurious, but, viewing the matter from a point of neatness, few things in forestry have a more unsightly or neglected appearance than trees almost blown over by the wind. Various are the methods usually adopted in staking and tying newly-transplanted trees. As no hard and fast lines can be laid down, as a rule, the size of the trees and the exposure of the positions in which they are planted must determine the method of procedure to be adopted. It may be that when growing in a low-lying, sheltered valley, trees of even 8 or 10 ft. in height may be perfectly safe without stake or tie of any kind, whereas others of similar or even smaller size, growing in an open position and exposed to the prevailing winds of the district, will require a mooring of the most secure description, and adjusted in the most efficient manner. For trees and shrubs up to 6 ft. in height, a strong, sharp-pointed stake should be driven firmly into the ground, within about 9 in. of the main stem, and on the most exposed side. The stake should be fully 7 ft. long, and driven, not perpendicularly, but with the head slightly inclined from the tree, and in the direction from which the prevailing winds usually blow. A strong ligature of some kind, such as tarred rope or thick matting, is then placed round the stem of the tree requiring support, at about 4 ft. from the ground, and made fast to the stake at a similar height.
By crossing the tie between the tree and stake, a more efficient job results, as there is then less room for the tree to work in when rocking with the wind. It will thus be seen that the nearer to the stem of the tree the stake is placed, the greater will be the power of resistance.
When the trees and shrubs are from 8 ft. in height and upwards, but especially in the case of evergreen species, stronger moorings than those just described will have to be employed, and the following plan we have found suitable for almost any emergency. A strong band of leather, or several strands of tarred rope, are placed loosely around the stem of the tree to be staked, and at, say, three-quarters of its height. Three wires—ordinary fencing wire does well—are then joined to this collar, two on the most exposed side and one on the other, and made fast to stout stakes driven firmly into the ground, at a distance from the main stem proportionate to the tree’s height. In the case of very large trees, or those that have been reinstated from a fallen position, double wires are used in a manner similar to that just described, the collar, however, being unusually strong. The advantages of double wires are extra strength, and the fact that they admit of being twisted at any time to the tightness required.
The above may be considered the two principal ways of staking large transplants, but occasionally cases will crop up in which it may be necessary to resort to other methods, but such are peculiar cases, and must be dealt with in a peculiar manner.
CUT-LEAVED, WEEPING AND FASTIGIATE TREES
These have their own place in landscape gardening, and when placed in the hands of a skilful planter are capable of producing the most beautiful and pleasing effects. The majority are graceful in outline, distinct and impressive in appearance; in fact, possess all those qualities which render them specially valuable for the embellishment of park or garden. Great care is, however, necessary in planting these trees, for if not used with the greatest discretion, the good effects they are so capable of producing in the hands of a trained planter are destroyed.
=Weeping Trees.=—Both picturesque and beautiful is a well-developed specimen of the Weeping Beech, and particularly so when associated with trees of a light and airy appearance, for the general character of the tree is somewhat massive and lumpy. Being of large growth, the Weeping Beech wants plenty of room for development. There is also a desirable weeping form of the purple Beech.
The Kilmarnock Weeping Willow (_Salix caprea pendula_) is one of the most popular and widely cultivated of weeping trees. It originated near Ayr, in Scotland, and was so named to distinguish it from two other well-known varieties, the common Weeping Willow and the American Weeping Willow—two desirable forms for waterside planting. In the American Fountain Willow we have another excellent weeping tree, while the ringed-leaved Willow (_S. Babylonica annularis_ or _crispa_) is one of the most curious and picturesque of the whole group.
Amongst the Birches are at least two desirable weeping forms in the cut-leaved (_Betula pendula Youngi_), Young’s weeping Birch, and the weeping white Birch (_B. alba pendula_), both of which are admirably adapted for lawns, even where space is restricted. The Birch will thrive on poor, light soil, and is, therefore, peculiarly suitable for planting in gravelly or rocky formations.
The distinct habit of the Weeping Mountain Ash, or Rowan tree, has made it a favourite in the embellishment of small grounds, and the wealth of conspicuous fruit produces a telling effect, especially if the tree is backed up by darker foliaged trees or shrubs. There are other forms of Pyrus well worthy of attention, such as the pendulous Siberian Crab (_P. prunifolia pendula_) and _Salicifolia pendula_, the latter in particular being a distinct and graceful small-growing tree. The Weeping Mulberry (_Morus alba pendula_) is occasionally seen in good form when it is a desirable acquisition, so is the Weeping Laburnum (_L. vulgare pendulum_) and the curious and scarce _Gleditschia triacanthos excelsa pendula_. In the silver-leaved Weeping Holly we have one of the best of evergreens for confined situations; and _Cornus florida pendula_ is a strikingly beautiful tree in which the weeping habit is decidedly pronounced.
Among Weeping Elms some varieties are most pronounced, but there are several others all equally worthy of culture. Of the English Elm, probably the best is _Ulmus campestris Petersii pendula_, while of the Mountain or Scotch, that known as _U. montana pendula_ is the most desirable. Weeping thorns are by no means common, but they are probably the most natural and graceful of all drooping trees of modern growth. In the flower garden at Regent’s Park is growing a beautiful specimen of this tree.
Perhaps the most common of weeping trees is the Weeping Ash (_Fraxinus excelsior pendula_), and its strong, vigorous growth causes it to be employed where others would not succeed. Even in smoky localities it is quite at home, as many fine old trees throughout London clearly prove that the deleterious effects of an impure atmosphere have but little effect on its hardy constitution. It is one of the best of weeping trees for forming an arbour, and as a distinctly ornamental specimen for the park or large lawn it has few equals.
Amongst coniferous trees we have several distinct and beautiful pendulous trees or shrubs, such as _Abies excelsa inverta_ and the well-known and much appreciated _A. Smithian_ or _morinda_. The pendulous Hemlock spruce (_A. Canadensis pendula_) is one of the prettiest and most natural in appearance of all weeping trees.
There are several distinct and beautiful forms of the Cypress, particularly _C. Lawsoniana gracilis pendula_ and _C. Lawsoniana alba pendula_. The Weeping Chinese Juniper (_Juniperus Chinensis pendula_) and _Virginiana pendula_ are well worthy of attention where this particular class of trees or shrubs is in request. Than the weeping form of the common Larch, perhaps no tree is more beautiful, the feathery pea-green foliage being distinct from that of every other tree.
=Cut-leaved Trees.=—Of the Maples we have several cut-leaved forms, such as the beautiful _Acer palmatum laciniatum_ and _dissectum_, while of the Norway Maple, the variety known as _Platanoides dissectum_ is particularly valuable on account of the freely divided and beautifully coloured leaves.
In the cut-leaved Birch (_Betula alba laciniatum pendula_), we have at once one of the most graceful and distinct of hardy trees. Not only are the leaves cut up and divided, but the weeping sprays of foliage, owing to the fine, whipcord-like branchlets, produce a most beautiful and graceful effect. In addition, this Birch is a tree of neat, clean growth, and will succeed in a satisfactory way even on poor gravelly soils and upland situations.
Amongst the Beam trees (_Pyrus_) we find several good cut-leaved forms, such as _pinnatifida_ and _salicifolia_, both highly desirable medium-sized trees and valuable for woodland margins or steep, undulating grounds. Numerous forms of the Oak have appeared with incised leaves, such as _Quercus dentata_ and the fern-leaved variety of the Turkey Oak (_Quercus Cerris asplenifolia_), a decidedly beautiful and worthy form. Of the English Oak (_Q. Robur_) we have at least two good cut-leaved forms in _Pedunculata asplenifolia_ and _pectinata_. There are other varieties of the Oak in which the foliage differs considerably from that of the species in being much more freely divided.
_Rhus glabra laciniata_ has become widely known of late years on account of its neatly divided foliage and as being a good town shrub. The leaves are of a delicate pea-green and the flowers inconspicuous and succeeded by feathery lawns.
The common Alder has at least two forms that are much sought after for dampish ground by the pond or lake side, in _Alnus glutinosa laciniata_ and its well-marked and distinct variety _imperialis_. Both attain to a goodly size, and when suitably placed where the abundant, rich green, deeply divided leaves can be readily seen, are distinctly valuable for contrast and waterside effect.
The incised or cut-leaved Hornbeam (_Carpinus Betulus incisa_) is rarely seen, but it is of so distinct a type that its inclusion in this list is considered desirable. In this case the almost entire beech-like leaf is finely divided and the whole tree presents a comparatively light and airy appearance. Of the common Hawthorn there is a specially elegant cut-leaved form in that named _laciniata_, but its distinctive characteristics are best revealed when planted in conjunction with the species.
Several of the Vine family are rendered highly ornamental for covering walls and pergolas by reason of their beautifully coloured and divided leaves. _Vitis heterophylla dissecta_ is one of the best in this way, but others of the less-incised forms are well worthy of attention. _V. vinifera purpurea_ has much to recommend it as an ornamental-leaved variety, and is specially suitable for covering mounds of earth, stones or tree stumps.
We must not omit to include the cut or fern-leaved variety of the Lime (_Tilia platyphillos laciniata_), which for neat habit of growth and distinct character from the species merits special attention. The cut-leaved Japan Maples are exceedingly beautiful, but their slow growth and difficult propagation will always be against extensive planting, and render them rare and expensive. Other interesting cut-leaved trees are the willow-leaved Ash, laurel-leaved Willow, scarlet Oak, Maidenhair tree, and that most beautiful of all, the fern-leaved form of the golden Elder.
Though somewhat stiff of outline the cut-leaved Horse Chestnut (_Æsculus_), in the form known as laciniatum, is not to be despised, and affords a striking contrast to the species.
The fern-leaved Beech (_Fagus sylvatica asplenifolia_) is probably the most commonly distributed of cut-leaved trees, and rightly so, for it is certainly one of the most beautiful and distinct of the type. _F. sylvatica quercifolia_, the Oak-leaved, is also worthy of attention, but cannot compare with the former in point of beauty. Even of the common Walnut (_Juglans Regia_) there is a cut-leaved variety, which is distinct and worthy of culture as an ornamental tree. It is named _laciniata_ and is fairly common.
Of the numerous varieties of the Sweet or Spanish Chestnut, the most desirable is that which bears the rather cumbrous name of _Castanea vesca heterophylla dissecta_. It is one of the most beautiful of hardy trees, in which the long, narrow leaves of the upper parts of the branches droop in a graceful manner and render it so much sought after in ornamental gardening.
=Fastigiate Trees.=—The Lombardy Poplar (_Populus fastigiata_) is at once one of the most conspicuous and picturesque of tapering trees. Though it can hardly be described as a beautiful tree, yet for landscape effect the tall, spiry, column-like appearance renders the Lombardy Poplar of particular value for certain well-chosen positions in our parks and grounds. In the neighbourhood of a town or country village it produces an effect almost akin to architectural embellishment, while in flat or low-lying districts, and particularly near water, it is most at home and probably looks best. It also associates kindly with old ruins and has a pleasing effect when rising out of pointed-headed Cypresses or Yews, but in all cases it is a tree that should be used sparingly and with extreme caution. Forming avenues or lines of the tree is not good taste, while planting single specimens in open situations should be avoided.
Of the Poplars there are several upright-growing varieties in addition to the Lombardy, such as the beautiful _P. alba Bolleana_, a desirable fast-growing tree with a character of its own.
The Oak, too, has its decidedly upright form in _Quercus pedunculata fastigiata_, which in old parks is a fairly common tree. A decidedly beautiful small-growing tree is the upright form of the dwarf Acacia (_Robinia Pseudo-acacia inermis fastigiata_) which for confined spaces and wealth of delightful pea-green foliage is a valuable small-growing variety.
The Elms are not wanting in upright-growing forms, both the English and Scotch being represented, the former in _Dampieri aurea_, and the latter in _Montana fastigiata_. A beautiful and distinct tree of upright habit will be found in the fastigiate variety of the Tulip tree (_Liriodendron tulipifera fastigiata_).
_Cupressus sempervirens_, in many parts of England, but particularly by the coast, forms a beautiful tapering evergreen tree with the darkest-green foliage. For clump planting it is particularly desirable, but it is not quite hardy in some parts of the country. Another coniferous tree of naturally erect growth is the red or Virginian Cedar (_Juniperus Virginiana_), which in sheltered sites is a most desirable member of the family. Two other Junipers are of decidedly strict growth, _J. drupacea_ and _J. thurifera_.
The Irish Juniper (_Juniperus hibernica_) originated in Ireland, most probably as a chance seedling. It is a most desirable shrub, and on account of its singular habit of growing in a compact, slender and graceful column, has proved itself a most valuable evergreen for almost any position, but particularly where geometrical gardening is carried out. The silvery glaucous hue of the thickly produced foliage is extremely beautiful. The nearly allied but much smaller growing _J. hibernica compressa_ forms a compact slender pyramid of bright-tinted foliage and is an excellent plant for rockwork or small gardens.
Amongst the Cypresses are several upright-growing forms, probably the best, and certainly the most widely distributed, being Lawson’s erect Cypress (_Cupressus Lawsoniana erecta viridis_), of dense, erect habit and with vivid green foliage. _Cupressus macrocorpa lutea_, raised by Messrs. Dicksons, of Chester, has a decidedly neat and upright habit of growth, while the distinct golden tint of the foliage renders it a desirable acquisition for ornamental planting.
Than the Irish Yew (_Taxus baccata fastigiata_) with its dark sombre foliage and neat columnar outline, few evergreens are more conspicuous and effective. This favourite and far-distributed variety originated at Florence Court, in Ireland, a century and a quarter ago.
_Cupressus macrocarpa fastigiata_ is a well-marked variety in which the branches closely press to the main stem. The foliage is of the brightest green, and the long whip-cord-like shoots with the conspicuous reddish back, impart a peculiar grace to healthy specimens. _C. torulosa_, for planting where space is confined, is a decided acquisition, the easy though columnar habit of growth, slender branchlets and bright glaucous foliage being all points of recommendation.
The upright form of the Birch (_Betula alba fastigiata_) has a peculiarity of habit that, associated with the slender weeping shoots, is highly ornamental; while _Cornus stricta_ and the upright variety of our common Hawthorn have both points of recommendation.