Part 2
On the 15ᵗʰ of July 1793, I took leave of Citizen Genet, Minister of the Republic of France to the United States[1] and started from Philadelphia on the same date at ten o’clock at night to avoid the great heat, and to travel by Moonlight. The 16th, being in company with ... Humeau and ... Leblanc,[2] we journeyed 40 miles.
The 17th, passed by Lancaster and made 35 Miles.
The 18th, passed by Carlisle ... Miles and slept at Chipesbourg [Shippensburg].
The 19th we slept at Strasbourg ... Miles.
Sunday the 20th, we started from Strasbourg, a small town situate at the foot of the Mountains; one of our horses having fallen sick we traveled only 21 Miles; observed _Magnolia acuminata_, _Azalea octandra_, _Kalmia latifolia_, _Fagus castanea_, _Fagus pumila_, _Pinus 2-folia_, _3-folia_, _Strobus_: _Abies Canadensis_; _Quercus castaneaefolia etc._ _Juglans nigra_.
The 21st of July started from Wells’s tavern, crossed the Juniata river ... and noticed _Rhododendron maximum_, _Hydrangea frutescens_, _Trillium erectum_; slept at Bedford. 21 Miles.
The 22nd. Started from Bedford and breakfasted at a place 4 miles distant where the Pittsburg Road divides into two. We took the right hand road; the Rain compelled us to stop and sleep only twelve Miles from Bedford.[3]
The 23rd we made 24 Miles and passed the summit of the Alleganys.
The 24th we made 25 Miles.
The 25th we passed by Green’sburg and made 31 Miles.
The 26th Rain; we made only ... Miles.
The 27th, we made 19 Miles and arrived in Pittsburgh. Total 32[4] Miles from Philadelphia.
The 28th visited Mr. H. Brackenridge.[5]
The 29th herborised; recognized on the banks of the Monongahela, _Dracocephalum Virginianum_,[6] _Bignonia radicans_, _Crotalaria alba?_ These plants grow on the banks of the river which are submerged when the waters are high.
The 30th of the same, recognized a Plant of the Genus _Ziziphora_ ... _Cunila pulegioides_[7] _floribus tetandris_; _Teucrium Canadense_, _Eupatorium aromaticum_, _Sigesbeckia_ ...; _Verbenae_ several species.
The 1st of August, herborised and recognized _Cassia Marylandica_; _Monarda didyma_; _Sanicula Marylandica_; _Triosteum perfoliatum_; _Sicyos angulata_; _Acer rubrum_, _saccharum_; _Campanula_, ...; _Cercis Canadensis_; _Menispermum Canadense_; _Actaea spicata_; _Tilia Americana_; _Urtica divaricata_; _Arum triphyllum_; _Celtis occidentalis_; _Panax quinquefolium_; _Staphylea trifoliata_; _Azarum Canadense_; _Rhus typhina_, _glabra_, _vernix_; _copallinum_, _radicans_, _toxicodendron_; _Clinopodium vulgare_, _incanum_.
The 2nd of August recognized _Aristolochia sipho_ or _macrophylla_; _Panax quinquefolium_; _Lobelia siphilitica_; _Convallaria_ many species; _Veronica_ ... _Ozalis stricta_.
The 3rd and 4th of August herborised: _Cacalia_ 2 species, _Phryma leptostachia_; _Leontice thalictroides_; _Lobelia siphilitica_, _inflata_, _cardinalis_; _Eupatorium perfoliatum_, _maculatum_, _odoratum et celestinum_; _Actea spicata_; _Podophyllum peltatum_; _Azarum Canadense_; _Hydrophyllum Canadense_; _Trillium cernuum_; _Panax quinquefolium_; _Aristolochia Sipho_; _Menispermum_ ...; _Sambucus Canadensis fructu nigro_; _Sambucus_ ..., _fructu rubro foliis tomentosis_; _Tilia Americana_; _Laurus Sassafras_, _benzoin_; _Robinia pseudocacia_, _Juglans oblonga_, _Juglans hiccory_; _Plantanus occidentalis_; _Acer rubrum_, _saccharum_; _Ulmus_ ...; _Hamamelis_ ..., _Cynoglossum_ 3 species; _Vitis vulpina_; _Dioscorea fructu infero_; _Teucrium Canadense_; _Scrophularia Marylandica_; _Dracocephalum Virginianum_; _Dianthera_ ...; _Sophora foliis ternis stipulis lato-lanceolatis floribus coeruleis vexillo corollâ breviore_; _Mimulus ringens_; _Bignonia radicans_; _Cercis Canadensis_; _Fagus sylvatica Americana_; _Circaea Canadensis_; _Urtica inermis_; _Erigeron Canadense_; _Cornus florida_; _Rubus odorata_, _Rubus occidentalis_; _Penthorum sedoides_; _Cephalantus occidentalis_; _Polygonum aviculare_, _hydropiper_, _amphibium_, _scandens_; _Sanguinaria Canadensis_.
On the 6th of August I saw on the bank of the Monongahela river opposite Pittsburgh a Coal mine at the entrance of which there seems to be a thickness of 15 feet of that mineral without admixture; sometimes a ferruginous tint can be distinguished between the different layers. In several spots soft rocks are to be found which seem good for use as whet-stones for large tools; they seem to me to consist of a combination of sandy, clayey and ferruginous particles with particles of mica in very rare instances.
The soil in the neighborhood of Pittsburgh is generally clayey, the calcareous rocks or stones of a brown color, consisting of much muddy clay. The soil between the two rivers on which Pittsburgh is built, is alluvial; stones rounded and worn by the rolling of torrents have even been found in the earth, dug up while sinking wells at a depth of more than 30 feet.
The 9th of August, when I was ready to start, the conductor of the Boat on which I had embarked my baggage came to tell me that he was waiting for the Boats destined to convey the troops, especially as the Boat seemed too deeply laden for that Season when the Waters are low; there was an appearance of Rain.
The 10th the river seems to be falling.
The 11th, 12th and 13th we remained, awaiting the departure.
The 13th three Boats arrived from the Illinois belonging to Mr. Vigo.[8] They were manned by about 30 French Canadian or Illinois oarsmen.
A Frenchman who has resided in America for 14 years and whose business consists in shipping supplies of flour to New Orleans, told me that he would give me Letters for Illinois addressed to the Commandant of the Post of St Louis. He is at present settled in Pittsbourgh and his name is Audrain.[9] This Audrain is said to be in partnership with one Louisière or Delousière who was exiled from France for having been concerned in the plot to deliver Havre to the combined English and Spanish fleets. This Louisière is at present absent from Pittsburgh. There is another Frenchman residing in Pittsburgh, Mr Lucas de Pentareau, an excellent Democrat, now absent. He passes for an educated man with legal knowledge.[10]
Pittsburgh is situated at the confluence of the two rivers, Monongahela and Allegany. These two rivers unite and form the Ohio or Belle Rivière. There are a great many more houses on the Monongahela river than on the Allegany. The number of houses is about 250 and it increases considerably every year. The ditches are still to be seen that served as the entrenchment of the Fort built by the French and called Fort Duquesne. The English, since that time, had built another almost beside it at the angle formed by the junction of the two rivers. It was built of brick and the Americans are demolishing it to use the bricks in building the houses that are being erected every day at Fort Pitt.[11]
The Americans have a Fort of Palisades situated behind the town on the bank of the Allegany River; it serves as a Depot for the arrival of the troops that are being sent against the Savages and as a Magazine for the Munitions sent there from Philadelphia.[12]
Wednesday the 14th of August, started from Pittsbourgh and slept at a distance of two miles only on the point of a small island on which I found _Acer negundo_, _rubrum_, _saccharum_; _Evonimus capsulis glabris_.[13]
The 15th recognized at 20 Miles from Pittsburgh _Pavia lutea_, _Panax quinquefolium_; A Bryonia plant _monoica calyce_ 5-fido, _corolla 5 partita floribus masculis spicatis axillaribus floribus femineis quoque axillaribus germine instructo spinis innocuis_.[14] Our journey covered 28 Miles.
The 16th at 7 o’clock in the morning we crossed the boundary line between Pennsylvania and Virginia. The line is marked by cutting down the trees on a width of about ... feet on the right and left of the Ohio or Belle Rivière and this place is 45 miles from Pittsbourgh. In the evening of the same day arrived at Buffalo Creek. _79 Miles from Pittsburgh._
The 17th passed by Willing [Wheeling] 92 Miles from Pittsburgh;[15] this place is inhabited by about 12 families as is also Buffalo Creek [Wellsburg]. Owing to the contrary wind we traveled only 30 Miles.
Sunday August 18th 1793, saw several flocks of wild Turkeys; wind contrary.
The 19th we made _50 Miles_. There are no settlements between Willing and Marietta, a small Town situate at the mouth of the Muskingum river. We slept at the place called Fort Harmar, situate opposite Marietta on the right bank of the Muskingum river.[16] _Dianthera americana._
The 20th we spent the day there.
The 21st, we passed by Little Kanhaway,[17] Belpré, and Belleville 34 Miles.
The 22nd we saw no settlements. Recognized _Polymnia canadensis_; _Acer rubrum foliis inferne glaucis_; _Acer negundo_, _Acer saccharum_, _Acer foliis rugosis nervis sublanuginosis_; _Annona triloba_, _Pavia lutea_, _Platanus occidentalis_.
The 23rd passed Great Kanhaway,[18] 4 miles before arriving at Galliapolis on the opposite bank.
The 23rd we arrived at the settlement of Galliapolis situate on the left bank of the Belle rivière. The houses are all built of squared logs merely notched at the ends instead of being Mortised (Log-house).[19]
The 24th remained over, visited doctor Petit who inspired me with the greatest respect by his good sense, his knowledge and his virtue. It seemed to me that humanity is the only thing that keeps him attached to that unfortunate colony.[20] Out of the 600 persons who came there to settle, only about 150 remain.
Sunday the 25th started from Galliapolis; at a distance of 35 Miles recognized _Iresine celosioides_ on the banks of the belle rivière where they are submerged by the great inundations. Passed a small river called Gay [Guyandotte]. We saw no habitations; 40 Miles.
The 26th, saw no habitations; passed the river Scioto ... Miles.[21]
The 27th, saw a Settlement of several houses at the place called Three Islands, ten miles before arriving at Lime Stone;[22] these Settlements are considered the first belonging to Kentuckey. We reached Lime Stone toward evening.[23]
Limestone is considered the Landing place or Port of Kentuckey. Goods are landed there that are sent from Philadelphia for Danville, Lexington etc. A small town founded six years ago at a distance of 4 Miles on the Lexington road, is called Washington and is very flourishing being situate in very fertile land.
The 28th, visited Colonel Alexander D. Orr.[24]
The 29th I left the two Companions who had come with me from Philadelphia. They continued their journey to Louisville while I went on by way of the inland Settlements. Colonel D. Orr offered me his Company to go with him to Lexington whither he proposed to go in a few days.
The 30th and 31st herborised while waiting until horses could be procured for the journey to Lexington. _Guilandina dioica_; _Fraxinus_ (_quadrangularis_); _Gleditsia triacanthos_; _Serratula praealta_; _Eupatorium aromaticum_, _Crepis Sibirica_? etc.
Sunday 1st of September 1793. Dined at Colonel Lee’s.[25]
The 2nd dined with ... Fox and prepared my baggage for departure.
The 3rd the journey was put off until the Following day. The soil in the vicinity of Washington is clayey and blackish, very rich. The stones are of an opaque bluish calcareous Substance, full of petrifactions of seashells. The bones of those monster animals supposed to be Elephants are found in the neighborhood.[26] It is to be presumed that those bones belonged to marine Individuals, judging by the great abundance of debris of marine bodies collected in those places.
The 4th started from Washington; passed by a place where the soil is impregnated with saline substances and whither the Buffaloes used to go in great numbers to lick the particles of Salt continually exuding from the surface of the Soil. There are at this spot springs whose water is bitter, putrid, blackish and full of mephitic air which frees itself at the slightest movement of the soil by the bubbles appearing on the surface of the spring as one approaches. The people living in the neighborhood erect ovens with kettles and extract Salt by the evaporation of the water.[27] We traveled 33 Miles.
The 5th we made 27 miles and, at an early hour, reached Lexington,[28] the chief town amongst the Settlements of the State of Kentuckey. We passed a small Settlement, looked upon as a town and called Paris, the capital of Bourbon county.[29] It contains about 18 houses. There are farming Establishments along the road and travelers now go without danger from Lime Stone to Lexington, a distance of Sixty six miles from one place to the other. _66 Miles._
The 6th visited two persons residing in Lexington for whom I had Letters of introduction.
The 7th herborised....
Sunday 8th of September was obliged to remain being unable to hire a horse.
The 9th left Lexington, went through portions of forest lands with very scattered Plantations. Crossed the Kentuckey river the banks of which are very close to one another; when the waters are low there is a height of more than 100 feet from the bank of the river to the level of the lands bordering on it and through which it runs. I am told that in flood-time it rises to a height of 40 feet in one day. On arriving there one would think himself between two ranges of very steep Mountains but in fact it is merely a torrent or a river whose Bed has been deeply worn. The rocks on the banks are of a calcareous nature. Several shrubs and Plants, natives of Carolina, grow on the cliff with a southern exposure being secured and protected from cold by the favorable situation offered by the great depth of the bed of the river.
The 10th arrived in Danville[30] and visited several persons for whom I had Letters: Colonel Barbee etc, Capt. Peter Tardivau, a witty man[31] etc. etc.
The 11th, visited General Benjamin Logan whose house is situate 12 Miles from Danville. I confided to him the Commission entrusted to me; He told me he would be delighted to take part in the enterprise but that he had received a Letter a few days previously from J. Brown[32] which informed him that negotiations had been begun between the United States and the Spaniards respecting the navigation of the Mississipi and the Creek Indians; That a messenger had been sent to Madrid[33] and that any one of the United States that would venture to act in a hostile manner against the Spaniards before the return of the first of December next, would be disapproved by the federal Government; That he was going to start the following day for his Establishment of Boulskine [Bullskin] Creek and that, after I should have conferred with General Clark, he hoped the latter would, in consequence of what I should communicate to him, make arrangements for further conferences together[34] etc. etc.
The 12th returned to Danville.
The 13th Visited (his Excellency) the Governor of the State of Kentuckey, Isaac Shelby;[35] visited the hills called Knob Licks;[36] Saw several Plants especially in the salt lands enclosed in the interior of the territory of Kentuckey. _Andromeda arborea._
The 14th left Danville for Louisville, lodged with Cumberland _19 Miles from Danville_.
Sunday 15th of September 1793, 22 Miles from Danville found a sort of _Tragia_, a _monoecian_ Plant, fructification in the manner of the _Euphorbias_. Shortly before reaching Beardstown recognized the rocks and stones of calcareous substances possessing all the forms of the Madrepores. The tops of the Mountains (hills) one has to cross, 3 or 4 Miles before reaching Beardstown, consist entirely of these petrified madrepores. Recognized many Plants not found elsewhere: _Fagara_ of the State of New York; _Rhamnus_ (_Carolinian_) and _Rhamnus_ ... etc etc. The neighborhood would be very interesting for a Botanist to visit. Dined at Beardstown[37] and slept 6 miles further. _31 Miles._
The country between Beardstown and Louisville possesses no interest for a Botanist.
The 16th arrived at Louisville having traveled by the new road.[38] _29 Miles._ In all 79 Miles from Danville.
The 17th of September visited General Clarke. I handed him the Letters from the Minister and informed him of the object of my Mission. He told me that he was very eager for the Undertaking but that, although he had written so long ago, he had received no answer and thought it had been abandoned.[39] I told him that his Letter had fallen into other hands and that the Minister had received it only indirectly after his arrival in Philadelphia. He informed me that a fresh circumstance seemed to oppose an obstacle to it.[40]
The 18th remained at Louisville and herborised.
The 19th returned to visit General Clarke....
The 20th started from Louisville, passed by General Clarke’s[41] and passed on to sleep near Salt river.
The 21st passed by Beardstown. _Evonimus ramulis quadrangulis capsulis muricatis._[42]
Sunday September 22nd arrived once more at Danville at 5 o’clock in the evening. Wrote to Minister Genet the same day by the Philadelphia Post.[43]
The 23rd I rested.
The 24th started for Lexington and slept at the Kentuckey river crossing.
The 25th found that my horse had wandered away. I slept at an inn where there was no Stable; my horse jumped over the fence and I spent the whole day looking for him.
While so engaged I saw on the sandy beaches: _Iresine celosioides_; _Mollugo verticillata_; On the rocks; _Heuchera Americana_; _Asplenium rhyzophorum_; _Pteris nova_; _Parietaria_ ...; _Hydrangea arborescens_. On the limestone mountains: _Serratula_ 2 unknown species; _Cuphea viscosa_; _Didynamia gymnosperma novum genus_; _Didynamia angiosperma novum genus_. On the bank of the Dickson river, _Dirca palustris_; _Sophora floribus coerulis_. In the shady forests etc: _Acer foliis argenteis an rubrum_? _Acer saccharum_; _Fraxinus foliolis subintegris_, _Fraxinus foliolis serratis ramis quadrangularis_; _Gleditsia triacanthos_; _Guilandina dioica_, _Robinia pseudo-acacia_; _Evonimus ramulis subrotundis_, _capsulis laevibus_.
The 26th of September 1793, Rained all day; slept at a mile from Kentuckey river at the house of ... Hogan[44] who was kind enough to lend me a horse for nothing to go in search of mine.
The 27th arrived at Lexington distant only 20 Miles from the crossing of Kentuckey river called Hickman junction.[45]
The 5th of October started from Lexington.
Sunday the 6th of the same arrived at Danville. The same day wrote to Citizen Minister Genet.
The 7th took lodgings at Puvit’s[46] and received my baggage.
The 10th Sent a Messenger to Louisville.[47]
The 13th Sunday returned to Lexington and came back on Sunday the 20th, to Danville. Not having received general Clark’s answer I was unable to take advantage of the Post to write to the Minister at Philadelphia.
The 21st received General Clark’s answer.[48]
* * * * *
The 10th of November 1793, Year 2 of the French Republic, left Danville for Philadelphia after visiting Colonel George Nicholas[49] near Danville. He laid stress upon the plan he had proposed to me the previous day regarding the Navigation of the Mississipi. Namely: That the Naval Forces of the Republic should seize the Mouth of the Mississipi, declare that the Country belonged to them by right of Conquest and invite the Americans of the Western Country to take advantage of the freedom of Navigation. Then, if the Spaniards situated higher up the river molested the Vessels carrying the provisions conveyed by the Americans, the latter would have the right to repel Constraint and force by force. Thus the Spanish Government would have no reason to complain of the United States having broken through inasmuch as the country would be reputed in the possession of the French Republic.
Slept at Crab orchard distant from Danville _22 Miles_.
The 11th of November 1793, started from Crab Orchard in company with 12 persons who had assembled at that place to pass through the Woods inhabited and frequented by the Savages. The tract between Crab orchard and Houlston settlement is 130 Miles wide and is called The Wilderness.[50] Slept at Longford Station. _10 Miles._
The 12th slept at Modnell Station _28 Miles_.
The 13th slept at Middleton station. _28 Miles._
The 14th crossed low, swampy places where the water was brown and stagnant. Six miles from Middleton Post and 18 miles before reaching the top of Cumberland Gap, saw a climbing fern covering an area of over six acres of ground near the road.[51] At this season when the Frost had produced ice from 3 to 4 lines thick, this plant was not at all injured by it. In this territory are two places, one called Flat lick and the other Stinking Creek.
Saw near the Carcass of a Stag the ... Raven (_Corvus corax_). Davissas station 2 miles to the[52] ... Cumberland Gap[53] _26 Miles_.
The 15th of November traveled through parts of very high Mountains in the midst of which we crossed Clinch river and slept at Houlston Station[54] in the house of one ... _27 Miles_.
The 16th followed the bank of the Houlston river and slept at the house of ... Amis Esquire, three Miles from Hawkin Court house.[55] _26 Miles._
Sunday the 17th the Rain compelled me to remain in a a small Cabin near the North fork of Houlston. _25 Miles_.
The 18th my horse was so tired owing to the rapidity of the journey and the bad roads across the Wilderness that I was obliged to stop after a Journey of only eleven Miles. _11 Miles._
The 19th started at daybreak. At the foot of the house where I lodged, the Kentuckey road divides,[56] the right one leads to Burke court house in North Carolina passing by the Mouth of Wataga river; the other leads to Abington court house, the first town of Virginia. As my horse was still tired, I made only _20 miles_.
The 20th I made _15 Miles_; arrived at Abington.[57]
The 21st I slept 22 Miles from Abington near Seven Miles Ford, the middle Branch of the Houlston.
The 22nd of November 1793 crossed Seven Miles ford. The Holston river consists of three principal Branches, namely: North fork, Seven Miles fork and South fork of Holston river.
In the space of six miles after crossing that little river, observed on the northern Hills bordering several small rivers the _Pinus abies canadensis_, _Thuya occidentalis_, _Rhododendron maximum_ and also _Magnolia acuminata_ in places where the soil is very rich: _Fagus chinquapin_; clayey soil, ferruginous Quartz rocks, Slates rare and lime Stones sometimes interveined with white Quartz; grey Squirrel (forgot to mention that, in passing Abington, saw a Tortoise 8 inches in diameter petrified in a black calcareous substance like the Rocks abounding in the territory). Our day’s journey was _23 miles_.
The 23rd of November slept in the house of a German. During the night my horses strayed away. Between Abington and With Court house[58] among the Mountains _Abies canadensis_ and _Thuya occidentalis_.
Sunday the 24th, passed by With Court house and at about 18 Miles in the steep Mountains observed _Pinus Strobus_, _Pinus foliis ternis_ (pitch pine), _Pinus foliis geminis_ ..., _Pinus abies canadensis_, _Rhododendron maximum_, _Kalmia latifolia_, _Gaultheria procumbens_, _Epigea repens_: In more arid places, _Fagus chinquapin_, _Fagus castanea americana_, _Fagus sylvatica americana_, _Andromeda arborea_, _Hypericum Kalmianum_. Among the damp rocks or those watered by the streams; Rocks of silex and also of agate slightly transparent.
From Seven Miles ford to With Court house 36 Miles.
The 25th crossed the ferry called Peper’s ferry[59] on the New River and afterward crossed from the West to the East side of the Alleganies; slept on a branch of James river called Catawba which flows eastward while the New River flows West of the Mountains.
The 26th continued on my way to Botetort Court house _30 miles_.
The 27th passed by Botetort Court house[60] and by the south Branch of the James River 12 miles from Botetort.
The 28th passed by Lexington[61] 40 miles distant from Botetort and by the north branch of James river to one Mile from Lexington. _Thuya occidentalis_, _Pinus Strobus_.
The 29th of November, remained in Mac Dowall’s house;[62] my horse’s leg was so swelled that he could not walk.
The 30th journeyed _27 miles_.
Sunday the first of December 1793 passed by Stanton, a small and rather flourishing town situate 120 Miles from Richemont and 75 Miles from Botetort.[63]
The 2nd passed by Rockyham or Rockytown[64] 20 miles distant from Stanton.