Part 3
The 3rd passed by Woodstock,[65] another small town 37 Miles from Rockytown. Between Stanton and Woodstock the country is mountainous, the soil rather fertile, of a clayey nature, with calcareous rocks called Blue limestone; _Quercus rubra_, _alba_; _Fagus chinquapin_ and _Pinus foliis geminis_, _conis squamis rigidis et aculeatis_. Three miles before reaching that town, on the North of a Hill on the road, _Thuya occidentalis_, _Pinus foliis geminis_, _Juniperus virginiana_.
The 4th started from Woodstock, passed by Newtown.[66]
The 5th passed by Winchester,[67] 35 Miles from Woodstock, formerly called Miller’stown.
The 6th passed by Charlestown[68] 22 Miles from Winchester. Passed by Harspur ferry[69] across the Potomack river 8 miles from Charleston and entered Maryland.
The 7th passed by Fredericktown[70] 20 Miles from Harspur ferry (Potomack river) and 50 miles from Winchester.
Sunday the 8th passed by Woodberry and Littletown[71] 35 Miles from Fredericktown.
The 9th passed by Hanover, formerly MacAllistertown[72] 42 miles from Fredericktown and by Yorktown 18 Miles _from MacAllistertown now Hanovertown_.
The 10th passed by the Susquehanna river and entered Pennsylvania eleven miles from Yorktown.[73] Passed Lancaster 12 miles from Harris ferry on the Susquehanna river and 24 miles from York.[74]
The 11th of December 1793 traveled 30 Miles.
Thursday the 12th, arrived in Philadelphia 66 miles from Lancaster.
The 13th visited Citizen Genet, Minister Plenipotentiary of the French Republic.
The 14th Visited Mr. Jefferson, Mr. Rittenhouse[75] and ...
Sunday the 15th; Recapitulation of the journey, namely:
From Danville to Lincoln 12 miles From Lincoln to Crab Orchard 10 From Crab Orchard to Langford Station 10 From Langford to Modrell Station 28 Modrell to Middleton Station 28 Middleton to Cumberland Gap 24 Cumberland to Davisses Station 2 Davisses to Houlston 27 Houlston to Hawkin Court house 22 Hawkin to ... Amis 3 Amis to North Fork of Houlston 25 North fork to Carolina fork 31 From the fork to Abington formerly Washington Court House in Virginia 15 From Abington to Seven Mile ford } 60[76] From seven Mile ford to With Courthouse } From With Court house to Peper ferry 33 From Peper ferry to Botetout Court house 50 From Boteton to James River South fork 12 From James river South fork to Lexington 28 From Lexington to Stanton 35 From Stanton to Rockytown 20 From Rockyham to Woodstock 37 From Woodstock to Winchester 35 From Winchester to Charleston 22 From Charleston to Harpur ferry or Potomack 8 From Potomack to Fredericktown 20 From Fredericktown to Littletown 35 From Littletown to Hanover formerly MacAlister 7 From Hanover to Yorktown 18 From York to Susquehanna, Harris ferry 11 From Susquehanna to Lancaster 12 From Lancaster to Philadelphia 66 --- Total 746 Miles
From Danville to Lexington 33 Miles From Danville to Louisville[77] 84 “
The 30th Germinal in the 3rd year of the French Republic One and Indivisible (Sunday 19th of April 1795 old style) started to go and herborise in the high Mountains of the Carolinas and afterward to visit the Western territories. Plants seen before arriving at Monk’s corner: _Heuchera_ ..., _Vicia_ 2 species, _Smilax herbacea erecta_, _Melampodium?_ ... _Polygonum necessaria_, _Silene Virginica_, _Phlox lanceolata_ then in flower, _Valeriana_. Slept at 45 Mile House.
The 10th Floreal (20th of April,) around forty five Mile house, _Valeriana_; 3 Miles before reaching Neilson’s ferry _Gnaphalium dioicuin_, _Uvularia_? On the said 20th of April a new tree of the Santee river, elm-leaved, _fructus muricati capsula muricata_, _semen unicum subovatum_.[78]
These seeds were then almost ripe; _Celtis occidentalis_ flowers ...[79] and lower male flowers.
Slept 77 Miles from Charleston.
The 21st of April noticed on the Santee High-hills: Phlox with white flowers and Phlox with pink flowers, two different species, very small Phlox with lance shaped leaves; Saw in the neighborhood of Monk’s corner _Lupinus hirsutus_ in flower. Dined with Dʳ ...; slept at Statesboroug.
The 22nd passed by Cambden; five miles beyond, a new _Kalmia_; it was not yet in flower. Slept 10 Miles beyond Cambden.
The 23rd of April passed by Flat rock, by Hanging rock Creek and slept at Cane Creek, Lancaster county, in the house of a Mr May; my horse strayed away during the night and following his traces it was found that he had passed by Mr Lee’s.
The 24th I was obliged to look for him all day. Mr Lee also sent his son and his negro to search for him. He procured me a Horse to go on my quest and afterward invited me to lodge with him; he overwhelmed me with civilities.[80]
The 25th, the horse came to Mr Lee’s house of his accord. Plants on the creek: _Dodecatheon Meadia_, _Asarum Canadense_, _Claytonia Virginica_, _Erythronium dens-leonis_.
Sunday 26th of April, started from Cane Creek, passed by Land’sford on the Catawba river. But the real road is from Cane Creek, ask for Colonel Crawford’s house or Plantation on the Waxsaw, then pass MacClean Hands ferry on the Catawba; Thence straight to the Iron works called Hill’s Iron Works operated by Colonel Hill.[81]
Thus from Cane Creek to Waxsaw ... Miles; From Waxsaw to Iron Works, York county ...
The 27th passed Iron Works about 32 miles from Cane Creek.
The 28th passed by Armstrong[82] ford on the south branch of the Catawba, 12 miles from Iron Works.
The same day passed by the dwelling of Bennet Smith where there is a ... Magnolia, 12 Miles from Armstrong ford.
The 29th passed by Lincoln,[83] 12 Miles from Bennet Smith’s and 36 miles from Iron Works.
Thursday 30th of April passed by the dwelling of Old man Wilson[84] 9 miles from Lincoln and 6 Miles from Robertson’s. Reached Morganton[85] 30 Miles from Robertson.
The 1st of May spent the day at Morganton and herborised in the neighborhood.
The 2nd spent the day at Colonel Avery’s,[86] 4 miles from Morganton.
Sunday 3rd of May started for the Mountains; at a distance of 14 Miles from Burke is Wagely’s house.
The Lineville Mountains at whose foot this house is situated, abound in _Magnolia auriculata_. They were then in flower. From Wagely’s to Captain Young’s is 8 Miles.
The 4th of May left Young’s. The distance to Ainswort’s is 2 Miles but by going to the right one reaches the foot of a very high Mountain 3 Miles from Young’s. The summit is 5 Miles from Young’s.
From the summit of the Mountain at Young’s to Bright’s, called Bright’s Settlement, the distance is 3 Miles and from Bright’s to Davin Port’s 2 Miles, making 10 Miles in all from Young’s to Davin Port’s.[87]
The 5th of May herborised in the vicinity of the dwellings of Davin Port and Wiseman.
The 6th started for the Mountains, namely: Round [Roan] Mountain and Yellow Mountain; Toe River flows between these Mountains. All the _Convallaria_ were in flower as well as the _Podophyllum diphyllum_ and _umbellatum_.
Sunday 10th of May 1795 returned from the Mountains to the dwelling of Davin Port.
The 11th herborised on the Mountains facing the dwelling. The distance to the summit of the Bleue Ridges at the part called Rompback is about 3 Miles; on the first Mountains are to be seen in very great abundance the _Azalea foliis apice glandulosis_, _Azalea lutea_. There is no other Azalea on the Hills surrounding the dwellings of Davin Port and Wiseman but this yellow-flowered species. That on the River banks is generally that with carnation flowers and that with white flowers.[88]
The 12th ascended the summit of the Blueridges, _Rhododendron minus_ in flower, _Cypripedium Luteum_.
The 13th of May started to continue my journey. At Noon arrived at the foot of Yellow Mountain 10 Miles. In the evening came to sleep at the house of John Miller 12 Miles from the Mountain. Thus there are 22 Miles from Davin Port’s to Miller’s; at a distance of half a mile one commences to cross Doe River.
The 14th followed and crossed Doe river 27 times. It is dangerous when the waters are high. Slept at the house of Colonel Tipton,[89] 20 Miles from Miller’s.
The 15th passed by Johnsboroug[90] 10 Miles from Colonel Tipton’s dwelling and 84 Miles from Burke Court house. Slept at the house of Anthony Moore near Noleychukey river. During the night my horse strayed away.
The 16th, Sunday 17th, & 18th were spent in searching for my horse.
The 19th bought another horse for the price of fifty Dollars from an inhabitant of Noley Chukey river named ... Earnest, a neighbor of one Andrew Fox. The _Magnolia tripetala_ abounds on the banks of Noley Chukey.
Wednesday 20th of May, passed by Green Court house 27 Miles from John’s Borough and the road to Kentuckey, taking the right hand and passing by ... ferry on the Holston river. Continuing straight on the road leads to Knoxville. By going to the left a little before Green the road leads to Frenchbroad.[91] The distance from John Borough to Green Court house is 27 Miles.
The 21st passed by Bull’s Gap 18 Miles from Green.[92]
The 22nd passed by Iron Works[93] 30 Miles from Bull’s gap. The distance to the river called Houlston river is only four miles. Two miles from Iron Works is a Rock of mineral, pieces whereof on being crushed and reduced to powder dye cotton red; this mineral is boiled etc.
The 23rd as my horse was injured I was obliged to remain a Mile from Iron Works on Mossy Creek at the house of one Newman. Near his house (½ mile) is to be found the mineral that I take to be Antimony.
Sunday 24th, arrived at Colonel King’s on the Houlston river at the place called Macby ferry[94] 15 Miles from Iron Works.
The 25th crossed the ferry and arrived at Knoxville 15 miles from Macby ferry, the residence of the Governor of the Western territories, 110 Miles from Johnsborough.[95] Plants and Trees of the Territory of Knoxville and of the neighboring country: _Quercus prinus saxosa_; _Quercus prinus humilis_; _Quercus rubra_; _Quercus proemorsa_; _Quercus tomentosa_; _Quercus pinnatifida_; _Quercus alba_ ...; _Ulmus viscosa_; _Ulmus fungosa_; _Fraxinus_ ...; _Diospiros Virginiana_; _Liquidambar styraciflua_; _Juglans nigra_, _alba_ or _oblonga_, hiccory pignut. _Platanus occidentalis_; _Nyssa aquatica_; _Fagus castanea americana_; _Fagus pumila_; _Fagus sylvatica americana_; _Magnolia acuminata_; _Betula alnus americanus_; _Cercis Canadensis_; _Cornus florida_; _Evonimus latifolius_, _Evonimus Americanus_; _Podophyllum peltatum_; _Jeffersonia_; _Sanguinaria Canadensis_; _Trillium sessile_.
Remained the whole week at Knoxville and herborised in the vicinity while awaiting a sufficiently numerous caravan to pass through the Wilderness.
Sunday 31st of May received notice that twenty five armed travelers were on the point of arriving at Knoxville.
Monday 1st of June 1795, old style, the journey was again put off.
Thursday 4th of June started from Knoxville and slept 15 miles away at captain Camel’s at the place called Camel [Campbell] station.
Friday the 5th, slept at the place called West Point on Clinch river, a Post of soldiers guarding the frontiers of the territory,[96] 25 Miles from Camel station.
The 6th started and crossed the river in a Scow or ferry connected with West point station. Our journey covered 10 miles. The Travelers consisted of 15 armed men and more than thirty women and children.
Sunday 7th of June crossed the Mountains called Cumberland Mountains, 22 Miles.
The 8th continued our march in the Mountains 23 Miles. _Magnolia petalis basi purpureis._[97]
Tuesday 9th of June 1795, alternately ascended and descended the Mountains. In the bottom lands _Magnolia tripetala_ in abundance, 25 Miles.
The 10th arrived at the Cumberland River, 10 Miles, and slept beyond the 20th Mile.
The 11th arrived at Blodsoe Lick or Blodsoe station,[98] 20 Miles. 120 Miles in all of the Wilderness.
Slept at this place where there is food for men and Horses.
Friday the 12th, came one mile to Colonel Winchester’s;[99] slept there two nights to rest myself and my Horse.
Sunday the 14th herborised.
The 15th came to the house of a resident near Cumberland River, Mr. Jackson;[100] soil fertile. Oaks, _Quercus prinus_: _Quercus rubra_, _Quercus glandibus magnis_, _capsulâ includentibus_, called Overcup White Oak.[101] _Quercus tomentosa_,[102] _Quercus praemorsa_. 25 Miles.
The 16th arrived at Nashville 12 Miles.
Total 197 Miles from Knoxville to Nashville, the capital of the Cumberland Settlements on the Cumberland river.[103]
The 17th visited various persons, Daniel Smith,[104] Colonel Robertson,[105] Captain Gordon, [G. M.] Deaderick, Dr White, Thomas Craighead[106] etc. etc.
Herborised on the following days.
Trees of Nashville Territory:
_Quercus prinus_; _Quercus phellos latifolia_; _Quercus pinnatifida_; _Quercus foliis lyratis subtus tomentosis calycibus maximis margine laciniatis glandibus includentibus Vulgo_; Over cup White Oak;[107] _Quercus rubra_; _Quercus tomentosa_; _Acer saccharum_, _Acer negundo_, _Acer rubrum_; _Juglans nigra_, _oblonga_, _hiccory_: _Platanus occidentalis_; _Liquidamber styraciflua_; _Ulmus viscosa fungosa_;[108] _Carpinus Ostrya americana_; _Rhamnus Alaternus latifolius_, _Rhamnus frangula?_[109] _frutex prunifer_; _Juniperus Virginiana_. Banks of Cumberland river _Philadelphus inodorus_; _Aristolochia siphotomentosa_;[110] _Mimosa erecta-herbacea_; _Mirabilis_[111] _clandestina seu umbellata seu parviflora_; _Hypericum Kalmianum grandiflorum_.[112]
Soil of Nashville clayey, rocky, limestone Rocks somewhat similar to the Kentuckey formation, position of the Rocks horizontal, occasionally Quartz Veins in the Rocks, abounding in marine petrifactions.
Sunday 21st of June 1795, killed and skinned some birds.
Birds: Robin, Cardinal, _Tetrao_ (grouse), _Lanius Tyrannus_ rare, Quantities of the Genus _Muscicopa_; few species of the Genus _Picus_: Wild Turkeys. Quadrupeds: Musk-rat, Beaver, Elk, dwarf Deer, Bears, Buffalos, Wolves, small grey Squirrels.
Minerals: soil clayey. Limestone Rocks always in a horizontal position; impure Slate, flocks of schistus; Petrifactions of land and fresh-water shells.
Monday 22nd of June 1795 (Old style) 4th of Messidor in the 3rd year of the Republic, started from Nashville for Kentuckey; passed by Mansko’s Lick,[113] 12 miles from Nashville; slept at Major Sharp’s[114] 29 Miles from Nashville.
The 23rd crossed the Barren oaks and slept at [Drake’s] Creek. There is no house in the interval. The Soil produces only black oaks. 30 Miles.
The 24th passed by Big Barren River. The man who keeps the Ferry is well supplied with provisions.[115] The distance is 3 Miles from [Drake] Creek.
Crossed the Barrens and slept on the ground without a fire and without allowing my horse to graze at large through fear of the Savages.
The 25th passed by Little Barren River, the first house 43 Miles from Big Barren River. Afterward passed by Green River 6 Miles from Little Barren River.
The 26th passed by Roland [Rolling] fork, head of Salt River, 30 Miles from Green River.
The 27th arrived at Danville 35 Miles from Roland old fork.
From Nashville to Danville, the oldest town in Kentuckey 117 Miles.
Sunday 28th of June rested.
The 29th skinned three striped Squirrels (_Sciurus striatus_)
The 30th herborised.
Wednesday 1st of July 1795 visited several residents.
The 2nd continued rain.
The 3rd put my old Collections in order.
The 4th
Sunday 5th of July[116]
Sunday 12th of July dined with the Governor of the State of Kentuckey, Isaac Shelby.
Thursday 16th of July 1795 left Danville.
The 17th passed by Beardston forty three Miles from Danville.
The 18th arrived at Stanford’s near Man’s Lick.[117]
Sunday 19th remained to await my Baggage.
The 20th remained, and being obliged to stay, watched the Process of manufacturing Salt. The Wells for getting the salt water are dug to a depth of about ... feet. Muddy clay is met with to a depth of ... feet. Then ... feet of slatey rock. When the rock is pierced the salt water is found at a depth of more than ... feet. This slate burns in the fire as if impregnated with bitumen or entirely made up of that substance. Bones of those great marine bodies that are rather frequently met with on the banks of the Ohio have been found in the impure clay that was dug up to reach the slatey rock.
The 21st of July, arrived at Louisville, 40 Miles from Beardstown.
The 22nd and 23rd remained and herborised.
The 24th returned to Manslick, 16 Miles from Louisville.
The 25th returned to Louisville.
Sunday 26th of July herborised.
Plants in the neighborhood of Louisville: _Quercus cerroides_,[118] _Quercus rubra_; _Quercus alba_; _Quercus prinus_; _Liriodendron_; _Fagus castanea_, _Fagus sylvatica_; _Rhus foliis alatis dioique_; _Hibiscus_[119] _foliis hastatis calyce exteriore lacinis subulatis flore pallide roseo_.[120]
Saturday first of August made ready to leave for the Wabash and the Illinois.
Sunday the 2nd I was invited to dine with a Frenchman named La Cassagne,[121] a resident of Louisville for more than 15 Years.
Trees, shrubs and Plants of Louisville territory:
_Liriodendron tulipifera_; _Platanus occidentalis_; _Acer rubrum foliis inferne argenteis_; _Fagus sylvatica americana_; _Quercus rubra_; _Quercus alba_, _Quercus praemorsa_,[122] _Quercus prinus_, _Quercus cerroides_;[122] _Tilia americana_; _Juglans nigra_, _Juglans alba_, _Juglans hiccory_, (_Juglans pacane_ rare); _Gleditsia triacanthos_, _Guilandina dioica_.
Sunday 9th of August 1795, started from Louisville and slept at Clarksville,[123] two miles from Louisville on the opposite Bank of the Ohio.
The 10th we set out and arrived at Post Vincennes situate on the Wabash River on Thursday the 13th of August in the evening.[124] The distance is considered to be one hundred and twenty five Miles. On the day of our arrival we crossed a River about 20 miles before reaching Post Vincennes and although the Waters were then very low we were on the point of making a Raft for the Country is not inhabited along this Road. Of all the Journeys I have made in America in the past 10 years this is one of the most difficult owing to the quantity of Trees overturned by storms, to the thick brushwood through which one is obliged to pass; to the numbers of Flies by which one is devoured, etc.
The 14th, 15th and Sunday the 16th of August I was obliged to rest having arrived almost ill. My horse, while trying to jump over the trunk of a large fallen tree, fell and threw me a great distance and I suffered for several days from an injury to the lower part of the Chest on the left side because the trigger of my gun had struck there.
The 17th spent a portion of the day herborising on the banks of the Wabash River.
I continued herborising on the following days.
The 18th of August 1795
List of Plants observed on the Wabash:
No. 1--_Verbena_[125] _urticifolia caule erecto_, _paniculis divaricatis_, _bracteis flore brevioribus_, _floribus albis_.
No. 2--_Verbena_[126] ..., _caule erecto_, _paniculis fastigiatis erectis_, _bracteis et calycibus pilosis_, _floribus purpureo-ceruleis_.
No. 3--_Verbena_[127] _caule erecto_, _paniculis rectis foliis ovatis_, _tomentosis_, _duplicato-serratis_.
No. 4--_Verbena_ ...
No. 5--_Verbena[128] caule repente_, _foliis pinnatifidis_, _bracteis longissimis_.
_Silphium perfoliatum_, _Silphium connatum_, _Silphium laciniatum_, _Silphium grandifolium_, _Silphium trisoliatum_, _Silphium pinnatifidum_. _Andropogon muticum_; _Holcus?_ ...; _Poa_ ...; _Quercus cerroides Chêne frisé_, Overcup White Oak; _Quercus latifolia Chêne à latte_ Ram’s Oak; _Quercus ... Polygonum aviculare staminibus 5, Stylis 3_; _Polygonum aviculare majus staminibus 5, Stylis 3_. _Trifolium? pentandrum majus_; _Trifolium? pentandrum floribus purpureis_; _Sanicula_[129] _marylandica_ or [called] Racine à Becquel by the Illinois French and Sakintépouah by the Pians[130] Savages: A decoction of the root is a sovereign remedy for several diseases and for long-continued venereal diseases.
Sunday 23rd of August 1795 started from Post Vincennes situated on the Wabash River for the Illinois on the Mississipi. We journeyed six Miles and camped on the bank of a Little River [Embarras]. I had no other company than a Savage and his wife. I had hired the Savage for ten Dollars and promised him two Dollars more to induce him to carry all my baggage on his horse.
The 24th we made about 25 Miles; the Savage was ill and was obliged to stop more than three hours before sunset.
The 25th crossed several Prairies. Observed a new species of _Gerardia_.[131] Stalk commonly simple, oval leaves opposite one another, sessile, axillary flowers purpurine flowers.
The 26th the Provision of meat was consumed. The Savage stopped very early, finding a favorable spot for hunting. Moreover heavy Rain fell about three o’clock in the afternoon. An hour after camping the Savage came back laden with a Bear cub and with the two hams of another and much older one. We boiled the kettle twice and had enough to satisfy us. We roasted what remained.
The 27th the Savage killed two Stags. We halted very early to dry the Skins and to eat, for the Savage and his wife ate five meals a day. Moreover, they regaled themselves with the marrow of the bones which they ate raw; for, being unable to carry away the meat, they contented themselves with a piece of the animal’s loins.
The 28th of August 1795. Just as I was eager to see Game the 1st and 2nd day, so was I afraid to see it then owing to the waste of time. I was all the more anxious to proceed that it rained every day. I had already been obliged once to dry at a fire my baggage that had been wet through especially four books of Botany and Mineralogy I had with me, as I had been unwilling to expose them to the hazards of the River and had sent by way of the Mississipi two Trunks containing grey Paper, Powder, Lead, Alum, Boxes for collecting Insects, and all the articles required for making Collections of Plants, Animals, Insects and Minerals.
Sunday 30th of August arrived at the village of Kaskaskia[132] situated two mile from the Mississipi river and half a mile from the Kaskaskia River. It is inhabited by former Frenchmen under the American Government. The number of families is about forty five. It is agreeably situated but the number of inhabitants had decreased; nothing is to be seen but houses in ruins and abandoned because the French of the Illinois country, having always been brought up in and accustomed to the Fur trade with the savages, have become the laziest and most ignorant of all men. They live and the majority of them are clothed in the manner of the Savages. They wear no breeches but pass between their thighs a piece of cloth of about one third of an ell [in length] which is kept in place before and behind above the hips by a belt.
The 31st of August herborised.
Tuesday the first of September continued my herborising; also on the 2nd, 3rd and 4th of the same.
The 5th started for the village called Prairie du Rocher about 15 miles distant from Kaskaskia.[133] Passed by the village of St Philippe abandoned by the French and inhabited by three families of Americans.[134] This village is 9 Miles from Prairie du Rocher.
The 6th arrived at Kaskia [Cahokia][135] near the Mississipi ... Miles from Prairie du Rocher.
The 7th herborised and visited the neighborhood of Kaskia.
The 8th started to return to Kaskaskia and arrived there on the 9th.
The 10th continued herborising in the vicinity of Kaskaskia Village until the 13th of the same month.
Sunday the 13th of September crossed over with a savage guide to the south bank of the Kaskaskia River and continued to herborise there until the 18th of the same month.
The 18th and 19th Rained continually. Put my Collections in order and gave my horse a rest.
Sunday the 20th ...
Kaskaskia 45 families; Prairie du Rocher from 22 to 24 families. St. Philippe 3 American families. Fort de Chartres in ruins.[136] Kaskias 120 families. Americans at Corne de Cerf and at Bellefontaine[137] 35 families. St Louis flourishing[138] ... Prairies and hills.
Friday 2nd of October started to go by land to the place where the Ohio falls into the Mississipi. Owing to the difficulty experienced in crossing the Kaskaskia river we traveled only 12 Miles.
The 3rd and Sunday the 4th Rained and we crossed several prairies. Traveled about 27 Miles.