Part 8

[170] Col. Robert Hays, a brother-in-law of Andrew Jackson, was born in North Carolina, and served in the Revolution, being captured at Charleston. He removed to Cumberland in 1784, was first United States marshal of Tennessee, muster-master-general for Jackson in 1813, and died at his home near Nashville in 1819.--ED.

[171] _Arundinaria macrosperma_, Michx.--C. S. S.

[172] Fort Blount was not a pioneer stronghold, but one erected by the government shortly before Michaux’s visit, for protection of the settlers against the Cherokees. It was on the north bank of Cumberland River, in the southwestern part of Jackson County, about midway between the Eastern and Western Tennessee settlements.--ED.

[173] _Cladrastis tinctoria_ Raf., discovered here by Michaux, although not included in his _Flora_. A letter written by Michaux to Governor Blount suggesting the value of the wood of this tree as a dye wood, was, according to the younger Michaux, published in the _Knoxville Gazette_, on the fifteenth of March, 1769. [See his journal, _post._]--C. S. S.

[174] _Lygodium palmatum_ Swz.--C. S. S.

[175] The Looneys were a prominent family in the early history of East Tennessee. Captain David Looney was militia officer during the Revolution and the Indian wars.--ED.

[176] Dr. Benjamin S. Barton was one of the best known scientists and naturalists of his day, as well as a skilful physician. Born in Lancaster, Pennsylvania, he was educated in Europe and took up practice in Philadelphia. In 1789, he was made professor of botany and natural history in the University of Pennsylvania; he was vice-president of the American Philosophical Society, and member of other learned organizations. He was designated to edit the scientific data of Lewis and Clark’s expedition, but died before accomplishing this (1815).--ED.

[177] William Bartram, son and co-worker of John Bartram, one of America’s first naturalists, was born in Pennsylvania in 1739. He devoted his life to the study of botany, travelling extensively for the discovery of plants. His head-quarters were at the botanical gardens near Philadelphia.--ED.

[178] John Overton was one of the best-known jurists of Tennessee. Born in Virginia, he early emigrated to Kentucky, whence he removed to Nashville, about the time Jackson began his career. He became Jackson’s partner and warm friend. From 1804-10 he was judge of the superior court, and of great service in adjusting land titles; the next five years (1811-16) Judge Overton served on the supreme bench of the state. He was one of the early proprietors of Memphis; and died near Nashville in 1833.--ED.

[179] John Carter was the foremost man of the early Watauga settlement. Coming from North Carolina, he had the prestige of family and a superior education, and was chosen head of the new community, serving efficiently in many capacities. He was concerned in the State of Franklin movement, and was frequently called out at the head of the militia, on Indian expeditions. Carter County was named for him, and he had therein a large estate.--ED.

[180] Michaux returned across the mountains by a different route from the one by which he went out. The northern or upper road over Yellow Mountain appears to have been the more frequented; the lower road, over the Iron Mountain range and down the Nolichucky, the more direct. See the younger Michaux’s account (_post_) of the difficulties of this route, when he passed over it six years later. Limestone Cove was probably at the mouth of Limestone Creek, a tributary of the Nolichucky on the western or Tennessee side of the mountain. Cane and Paper Creeks are small tributaries of the Nolichucky, on the eastern or North Carolina grade of the mountains.--ED.

[181] _C. rostrata_, Ait.--C. S. S.

[182] _V. hastata_, Michx.--C. S. S.

[183] _M. macrophylla_, Michx.--C. S. S.

[184] Tuckasegee Ford is between the present Gaston County and Mechlenburg, about ten miles west of Charlotte.--ED.

[185] Note: before passing the ford, I dined with ... Alexander, a very respectable man from whom I have received many courtesies.--MICHAUX.

It is impossible to determine from this allusion, which of the numerous Alexander family Michaux visited. The Alexanders of Mechlenburg were noted as patriotic, God-fearing, Scotch-Irish Presbyterians, who had a large share in the Revolutionary War in their country. Abraham presided at the Mechlenburg Convention (1775), of which Adam and John McKnitt Alexander were both members.--ED.

[186] When one does not wish to pass by Charlotte in going to Lincoln, he must inquire twelve or fifteen miles before reaching these, for the route to the left which passes by Tuckasegee Ford.--MICHAUX.

[187] It has been suggested that this may refer to _F. Caroliniana_, Walt. (_F. Walteri_, Michx.).--C. S. S.

[188] It is not at all clear what shrub Michaux refers to in this entry. Mr. Canby, to whom several of the doubtful points in the Journal have been referred, and whose knowledge of the plants of the Allegheny region is now unrivaled, suggests that Michaux may have found _Darbya_. There is nothing in his herbarium to indicate that he ever saw that plant, which was found, however, by M. A. Curtis not far from Morganton.--C. S. S.

[189] Probably _Silene Pennsylvanica_ as suggested by Mr. Canby, or _S. Baldwinii_, as suggested by Mr. Meehan. In both of the species the petals are sometimes rose colored.--C. S. S.

[190] _Planera aquatica_, Gmelin.--C. S. S.

[191] Bledsoe’s Lick. A pioneer told Lyman C. Draper that this was often called “the Bloody Ground,” because so many whites were there killed by Indians--note in Draper MSS., Wisconsin Historical Society, 3 XX 18.--ED.

TRAVELS TO THE WEST OF THE ALLEGHANY MOUNTAINS, BY FRANÇOIS ANDRÉ MICHAUX

Reprint from London edition, 1805

[Illustration:

_CARTE_

DES ETATS DU CENTRE, DE L’OUEST ET DU SUD _DES_ ETATS-UNIS.

_Dessinée par Dupias fils_ AN XII.__1804. ]

TRAVELS

TO THE WEST OF THE

_ALLEGHANY MOUNTAINS_,

IN THE STATES OF

Ohio, KENTUCKY, AND TENNESSEA,

AND BACK TO CHARLESTON, BY THE UPPER CAROLINES;

COMPRISING

_The most interesting Details on the present State of_ Agriculture,

AND

THE NATURAL PRODUCE OF THOSE COUNTRIES:

TOGETHER WITH

_Particulars relative to the Commerce that exists between the above-mentioned States, and those situated East of the Mountains and Low Louisiana_,

UNDERTAKEN, IN THE YEAR 1802,

UNDER THE AUSPICES OF

His Excellency M. CHAPTAL, Minister of the Interior, BY F. A. MICHAUX,

MEMBER OF THE SOCIETY OF NATURAL HISTORY AT PARIS; CORRESPONDENT OF THE AGRICULTURAL SOCIETY IN THE DEPARTMENT OF THE SEINE AND OISE.

LONDON:

Printed by D. N. SHURY, Berwick Street, Soho; FOR B. CROSBY AND CO. STATIONERS’ COURT; AND J. F. HUGHES, WIGMORE STREET, CAVENDISH SQUARE:

1805.

CONTENTS

CHAP. I

Departure from Bourdeaux.--Arrival at Charleston.--Remarks upon the yellow fever.--A short description of the town of Charleston.--Observations upon several trees, natives of the old continent, reared in a botanic garden near the city 117

CHAP. II

Departure from Charleston for New York.--A short description of the town.--Botanic excursions in New Jersey.--Remarks upon the _quercus tinctoria_, or black oak, and the nut trees of that country.--Departure from New York for Philadelphia.--Abode 125

{vi} CHAP. III

Departure from Philadelphia to the western country.--Communications by land in the United States.--Arrival at Lancaster.--Description of the town and its environs.--Departure.--Columbia.--Passage from Susquehannah, York, Dover, Carlisle.--Arrival at Shippensburgh.--Remarks upon the state of agriculture during the journey 132

CHAP. IV

Departure from Shippensburgh to Strasburgh.--Journey over the Blue Ridges.--New Species of _rhododendrum_.--Passage over the river Juniata.--Use of the cones of the _magnolia acuminata_.--Arrival at Bedford Court House.--Excesses to which the natives of that part of the country are addicted.--Departure from Bedford.--Journey over Alleghany Ridge and Laurel Hill.--Arrival at West Liberty Town 141

CHAP. V

Departure from West Liberty Town to go among the mountains in search of a shrub supposed to give good oil, a new species of _azalea_.--Ligonier Valley.--Coal Mines.--Greensburgh.--Arrival at Pittsburgh 149

{vii} CHAP. VI

Description of Pittsburgh.--Commerce of the Town and adjacent countries with New Orleans.--Construction of large vessels.--Description of the rivers Monongahela and Alleghany.--Towns situated on their banks.--Agriculture.--Maple sugar 156

CHAP. VII

Description of the Ohio.--Navigation of that river.--Mr. S. Craft.--The object of his travels.--Remarks upon the state of Vermont 163

CHAP. VIII

Departure from Pittsburgh for Kentucky.--Journey by land to Wheeling.--State of agriculture on the route.--West Liberty Town in Virginia.--Wheeling 168

CHAP. IX

Departure from Wheeling for Marietta.--Aspect of the banks of the Ohio.--Nature of the forests.--Extraordinary size of several kinds of trees 172

{viii} CHAP. X

Marietta.--Ship building.--Departure for Gallipoli.--Falling in with a Kentucky boat.--Point Pleasant.--The Great Kenhaway 177

CHAP. XI

Gallipoli.--State of the French colony Scioto.--Alexandria at the mouth of the Great Scioto.--Arrival at Limestone in Kentucky 182

CHAP. XII

Fish and shells of the Ohio.--Inhabitants on the banks of the river.--Agriculture.--American emigrant.--Commercial intelligence relative to that part of the United States 188

CHAP. XIII

Limestone.--Route from Limestone to Lexinton.--Washington.-- Salt-works at Mays-Lick.--Millesburgh.--Paris 195

CHAP. XIV

Lexinton.--Manufactories established there.--Commerce.--Dr. Samuel Brown 199

{ix} CHAP. XV

Departure from Lexinton.--Culture of the vine at Kentucky.-- Passage over the Kentucky and Dick Rivers.--Departure for Nasheville.--Mulder Hill.--Passage over Green River 206

CHAP. XVI

Passage over the Barrens, or Meadows.--Plantations upon the road.--The view they present.--Plants discovered there.--Arrival at Nasheville 215

CHAP. XVII

General observations upon Kentucky.--Nature of the soil.--First settlements in the state.--Right of property uncertain.--Population 222

CHAP. XVIII

Distinction of Estates.--Species of Trees peculiar to each of them.--Ginseng.--Animals in Kentucky 228

CHAP. XIX

Different kinds of culture in Kentucky.--Exportation of colonial produce.--Peach trees.--Taxes 237

{x} CHAP. XX

Particulars relative to the manners of the inhabitants of Kentucky.--Horses and cattle.--Necessity of giving them salt.--Wild Horses caught in the Plains of New Mexico.--Exportation of salt provisions 243

[CHAP.] XXI

Nasheville.--Commercial details.--Settlement of the Natches 250

CHAP. XXII

Departure for Knoxville.--Arrival at Fort Blount.--Remarks upon the drying up of the Rivers in the Summer.--Plantations on the road.--Fertility of the soil.--Excursions in a canoe on the river Cumberland 255

CHAP. XXIII

Departure from Fort Blount to West Point, through the Wilderness.--Botanical excursions upon Roaring River.--Description of its Banks.--Saline productions found there.--Indian Cherokees.--Arrival at Knoxville 258

{xi} CHAP. XXIV

Knoxville.--Commercial intelligence.--Trees that grow in the environs.--Converting some parts of the Meadows into Forests.--River Nolachuky.--Greensville.--Arrival at Jonesborough 265

CHAP. XXV

General observations on the state of Tennessea.--Rivers Cumberland and Tennessea.--What is meant by East Tennessea or Holston, and West Tennessea or Cumberland.--First settlements in West Tennessea.--Trees natives of that country 271

CHAP. XXVI

Different kinds of produce of West Tennessea.--Domestic manufactories for cottons encouraged by the Legislature of this State.--Mode of letting out Estates by some of the Emigrants 276

CHAP. XXVII

East Tennessea, or Holston.--Agriculture.--Population.-- Commerce 280

{xii} CHAP. XXVIII

Departure from Jonesborough for Morganton, in North Carolina.--Journey over Iron Mountains.--Sojourn on the mountains.--Journey over the Blue Ridges and Linneville Mountains.--Arrival at Morganton 283

CHAP. XXIX

General observations upon this part of the Chain of the Alleghanies.--Salamander which is found in the torrents.--Bear hunting 286

CHAP. XXX

Morganton.--Departure for Charleston.--Lincolnton.-- Chester.--Winesborough.-- Columbia.--Aspect of the Country on the Road.--Agriculture, &c. &c. 290

CHAP. XXXI

General observations on the Carolinas and Georgia.-- Agriculture and produce peculiar to the upper part of these states 296

CHAP. XXXII

Low part of the Carolines and Georgia.--Agriculture.-- Population.--Arrival at Charleston 301

TRAVELS, &C., &C.

CHAP. I

_Departure from Bourdeaux.--Arrival at Charleston.--Remarks upon the yellow fever.--A short description of the town of Charleston.--Observations upon several trees, natives of the old continent, reared in a botanic garden near the city._

Charleston, in South Carolina, being the first place of my destination, I went to Bourdeaux as one of the ports of France that trades most with the southern parts of the United States, and where there are most commonly vessels from the different points of North America. I embarked the 24th of {2} September 1801, on board the John and Francis, commanded by the same captain with whom I returned to Europe several years ago.[1] A fortnight after our departure we were overtaken by a calm, within sight of the Açorian Islands. Saint George’s and Graciosa were those nearest to us, where we clearly distinguished a few houses, which appeared built with stone and chalk; and the rapid declivity of the land divided by hedges, which most likely separated the property of different occupiers. The major part of these islands abound with stupendous mountains, in various directions, and beyond which the summit of Pico, in a pyramidical form rises majestically above the clouds, which were then illumined by the rays of the setting sun. A gentle breeze springing up, we soon lost sight of that charming prospect, and on the 9th of October following entered the Charleston roads, in company with two other vessels which had left Bourdeaux, the one eighteen days, and the other a month before us.

The pleasure that we felt on discovering the shore was very soon abated. The pilot informed us that the yellow fever had made dreadful ravages at Charleston, and was still carrying off a great number of the inhabitants. This intelligence alarmed the {3} passengers, who were fourteen in number, the most of whom had either friends or relatives in the town. Every one was fearful of learning some disastrous news or other. The anchor was no sooner weighed than those who had never been accustomed to warm countries were escorted by their friends to the Isle of Sullivan. This island is situated about seven miles from Charleston. Its dry and parched-up soil is almost bereft of vegetation; but as it is exposed to the breeze of the open sea, the air is generally cool and pleasant. Within these few years, since that bilious and inflammatory disorder, commonly known by the name of the _yellow fever_, shows itself regularly every summer at Charleston, a great number of the inhabitants and planters, who took refuge in the town to escape the intermittent fevers which attack seven-tenths of those resident in the country, have built houses in that island, where they sojourn from the early part of July till the first frost, which usually takes place about the 15th of November. A few of the inhabitants keep boarding-houses, where they receive those who have no settled residence. It has been remarked that foreigners, newly arrived from Europe or the states of North America, and {4} who go immediately to reside in this island, are exempt from the yellow fever.

However powerful these considerations were, they could not induce me to go and pass my time in such a dull and melancholy abode; upon which I refused the advice of my friends, and staid in the town. I had nearly been the victim of my obstinacy, having been, a few days after, attacked with the first symptoms of this dreadful malady, under which I laboured upward of a month.

The yellow fever varies every year according to the intenseness of the heat; at the same time the observation has not yet been forcible enough to point out the characteristic signs by which they can discover whether it will be more or less malignant in the summer. The natives are not so subject to it as foreigners, eight-tenths of whom died the year of my arrival; and whenever the former are attacked with it, it is always in a much less proportion.

It has been observed that during the months of July, August, September, and October, when this disorder is usually most prevalent, the persons who leave Charleston for a few days only, are, on their return to town, much more susceptible of catching it {5} than those who staid at home. The natives of Upper Carolina, two or three hundred miles distant, are as subject to it as foreigners; and those of the environs are not always exempt from it: whence it results that during one third of the year all communications are nearly cut off between the country and town, whither they go but very reluctantly, and seldom or ever sleep there. The supply of provisions at that time is only made by the negroes, who are never subject to the fever. On my return to Charleston in the month of October 1802, from my travels over the western part of the country, I did not meet, on the most populous road, for the space of three hundred miles, a single traveller that was either going to town or returning from it; and in the houses where I stopped there was not a person who conceived his business of that importance to oblige him to go there while the season lasted.

From the 1st of November till the month of May the country affords a picture widely different; every thing resumes new life; trade is re-animated; the suspended communications re-commence; the roads are covered with waggons, bringing from all quarters the produce of the exterior; an immense number of carriages and single-horse chaises roll rapidly {6} along, and keep up a continual correspondence between the city and the neighbouring plantations, where the owners spend the greatest part of the season. In short, the commercial activity renders Charleston just as lively as it is dull and melancholy in the summer.

It is generally thought at Charleston that the yellow fever which rages there, as well as at Savannah, every summer, is analogous to that which breaks out in the colonies, and that it is not contagious: but this opinion is not universally adopted in the northern cities. It is a fact, that whenever the disease is prevalent at New York and Philadelphia, the natives are as apt to contract it as foreigners, and that they remove as soon as they learn that their neighbours are attacked with it. Notwithstanding they have a very valuable advantage that is not to be found at Charleston, which is, that the country places bordering on Philadelphia and New York are pleasant and salubrious; and that at two or three miles’ distance the inhabitants are in perfect safety, though even the disorder committed the greatest ravages in the above-mentioned towns.

I took the liberty to make this slight digression, for the information of those who might have to go to the {7} southern parts of the United States that it is dangerous to arrive there in the months of July, August, September, and October. I conceived, like many others, that the using of every means necessary to prevent the effervescence of the blood was infallibly a preservative against this disorder; but every year it is proved by experience that those who have pursued that mode of living, which is certainly the best, are not all exempt from sharing the fate of those who confine themselves to any particular kind of regimen.

Charleston is situated at the conflux of the rivers Ashley and Cooper. The spot of ground that it occupies is about a mile in length. From the middle of the principal street the two rivers might be clearly seen, were it not for a public edifice built upon the banks of the Cooper, which intercepts the view. The most populous and commercial part of the town is situated along the Ashley. Several ill-constructed quays project into the river, to facilitate the trading vessels taking in their cargoes. These quays are formed with the trunks of palm trees fixed together, and laid out in squares one above the other. Experience has shown that the trunks of these trees, although of a very spungy nature, lie buried in the {8} water many years without decaying; upon which account they are generally preferred for these purposes to any other kind of wood in the country. The streets of Charleston are extremely wide, but not paved, consequently every time your foot slips from a kind of brick pavement before the doors, you are immerged nearly ancle-deep in sand. The rapid circulation of the carriages, which, proportionately speaking, are far more considerable here in number than in any other part of America, continually grinds this moving sand, and pulverizes it in such a manner, that the most gentle wind fills the shops with it, and renders it very disagreeable to foot passengers. At regular distances pumps supply the inhabitants with water of such a brackish taste, that it is truly astonishing how foreigners can grow used to it. Two-thirds of the houses are built with wood, the rest with brick. According to the last computation, made in 1803, the population, comprising foreigners, amounted to 10,690 whites and 9050 slaves.

Strangers that arrive at Charleston, or at any town in the United States, find no furnished hotels nor rooms to let for their accommodation, no coffee-houses where they can regale themselves. The whole of this is replaced by boarding-houses, where every thing necessary {9} is provided. In Carolina you pay, at these receptacles, from twelve to twenty piastres per week. This enormous sum is by no means proportionate to the price of provisions. For example, beef very seldom exceeds sixpence a pound. Vegetables are dearer there than meat. Independent of the articles of consumption that the country supplies, the port of Charleston is generally full of small vessels from Boston, Newport, New York, and Philadelphia, and from all the little intermediate ports, which are loaded with flour, salt provisions, potatoes, onions, carrots, beet-roots, apples, oats, Indian corn, and hay. Planks and building materials comprize another considerable article of importation; and although these different kinds of produce are brought from three to four hundred leagues, they are not so dear and of a better quality than those of their own growth.

In winter the markets of Charleston are well stocked with live sea-fish, which are brought from the northern part of the United States in vessels so constructed as to keep them in a continual supply of water. The ships engaged in this kind of traffic load, in return, with rice and cottons, the greater part of which is re-exported into Europe, the freight {10} being always higher in the northern than in the southern states. The cotton wool that they keep in the north for their own consumption is more than sufficient to supply the manufacturies, being but very few: the overplus is disposed of in the country places, where the women fabricate coarse cottons for the use of their families.

Wood is extravagantly dear at Charleston; it costs from forty to fifty shillings[2] a _cord_, notwithstanding forests, which are almost boundless in extent, begin at six miles, and even at a less distance from the town, and the conveyance of it is facilitated by the two rivers at the conflux of which it is situated; on which account a great number of the inhabitants burn coals that are brought from England.