Part 25

AT Elizabethtown, about eighteen miles from Pittsburg, we crossed the Monongahela.[12] Having collected particular information {30} respecting this river and the Alleghany, and an account of the settlements upon their banks, I insert it in this place.[13]

THE MONONGAHELA takes its rise at the foot of Laurel Hill in Virginia, about Lat. 38° 30′ N. Thence meandering in a north by east direction it passes into Pennsylvania, and at last, uniting its waters with those of the Alleghany at Pittsburg, forms the noble Ohio.

THE settlements on both sides of this river are fine and extensive, and the land is good and well cultivated. Numerous trading and family boats pass continually. In the spring and fall the river seems covered with them. The former, laden with flour, whiskey, peach-brandy, cider, bacon, iron, potters’ ware, cabinet work, &c. all the produce or manufacture of the country, are destined for Kentucky, and New Orleans, or the towns on the Spanish side of the Missisippi. The latter convey the families of emigrants, with their furniture, farming utensils, &c. to the new settlements they have in view. These boats are generally called “Arks;” and are said to have been invented by Mr. {31} Krudger, on the Juniata, about ten years ago. They are square, and flat-bottomed; about forty feet by fifteen, with sides six feet deep; covered with a roof of thin boards, and accommodated with a fire-place. They will hold from 200 to 500 barrels of flour. They require but four hands to navigate them; carry no sail, and are wafted down by the current.

THE banks of the river opposite to Pittsburg, and on each side for some distance, or rather the high hills whose feet it laves, appear to be one entire body of coal. This is of great advantage to that flourishing town; for it supplies all their fires, and enables them to reserve their timber and wood for ship building and the use of mechanicks.

MORGANTOWN, which is one hundred and seven miles from Pittsburg, may be considered as the head of navigation on the Monongahela.[14]

THIS is a flourishing town, pleasantly situated on the east side of the river. It contains about sixty dwelling-houses, a Court-house, and stone Gaol. It is the shire town for the counties of Harrison, {32} Monongalia, Ohio, and Randolph, in Virginia.

EIGHT miles below this town the CHEAT RIVER enters; three or four miles within the Pennsylvania line. “It is 200 yards wide at its mouth, and 100 yards at the Dunkard’s settlement fifty miles higher; and is navigable for boats except in dry seasons. There is a portage of thirty-seven miles from this river to the Potomac at the mouth of Savage river.”[15] [16]

TWO miles lower down it receives the waters of _Dunkard’s Creek_ on the west side; and ten miles lower _George’s Creek_ joins it on the east. Just below the mouth of this creek is situated NEW GENEVA, a thriving post-town, a place of much business, and rendered famous by the glass-works in its vicinity, which not only supply the neighbourhood with window-glass, bottles, &c. but send large quantities down the river. There is also a papermill, and a manufactory for muskets, in the place. Arks, and other boats are built here.[17]

A LITTLE below, and on the other side of the river, lies GREENSBURGH, so called in honor of the late General Greene. It is a neat little village.[18]

{33} WITHIN the distance of twenty-three miles from this enter _Big Whitely Creek_, _Little Whitely_, _Brown’s run_, _Middle run_, _Cat’s run_, _Muddy Creek_, and _Ten mile run_. Near the latter is FREDERICKTOWN, a pretty village on the west side of the river.

SEVEN miles lower down, immediately above the mouth of _Dunlap’s Creek_, on the east side, is BRIDGEPORT, a small thriving town, connected with Brownsville by a neat bridge 260 feet long.

BROWNSVILLE, formerly called “Redstone old fort,” is a post-town, belonging to Fayette County in Pennsylvania. Though extremely pleasant, and commanding a most extensive and interesting prospect of the river, the creeks, and the fine country around, it seems rather disadvantageously situated on account of the steep declivity of the hill on which it is principally built. It contains about one hundred and fifty houses, and five hundred inhabitants. There is a Roman Catholic church here, and four Friends’ meeting-houses in the vicinity.

AN extensive paper-mill on _Redstone Creek_, a rope-walk, a brewery, several valuable manufactories, and within a few miles of the town twenty-four saw, grist, oil, and {34} fulling mills, render this a place of much business. The trade and emigration down the river employ boat-builders very profitably. About one hundred boats of twenty tons each are said to be built here annually.

ON the south side of Redstone Creek formerly stood _Byrd’s Fort_.[19]

ABOUT nineteen miles below is WILLIAMSPORT, a growing settlement, on the direct road from Philadelphia to Wheeling.

TWELVE miles lower is ELIZABETHTOWN, on the southeast side of the river, containing about sixty houses. At this place much business is done in boat and ship building. The “Monongahela Farmer,” and other vessels of considerable burden, were built here, and, laden with the produce of the adjacent country, were sent to the West-India islands.[20]

EIGHT miles farther is MCKEESPORT, situated just below the junction of the Yohiogany with the Monongahela. Many boats are built here for transportation and the use of those who emigrate to the western country. The place is growing in business, and most probably will rise into considerable importance.

{35} HAVING received the Yohiogany, and waters from several creeks, the river winds its course, with replenished stream, till it unites with the Alleghany below Pittsburg, where it is about four hundred yards wide.

BRADDOCK’S FIELD is at the head of _Turtle Creek_, seven miles from Pittsburg. Here that brave, but unfortunate General engaged a party of Indians, was repulsed, himself mortally wounded, and his army put to flight, July 9, 1755.[21]

THE ALLEGHANY RIVER, by the Delaware Indians called “Alligewisipo,”[22] rises on the western side of the mountain from which it derives its name. Its head is near Sinemahoning Creek, a boatable stream that falls into the Susquehannah; to which there is a portage of twenty-two miles. Another branch tends towards Le Boeuf, whence is a portage of only fifteen miles to Presq’ Isle, one of the finest harbours on Lake Erie. This distance is a continued chesnut-bottom swamp, except about one mile from Le Boeuf, and two miles from Presq’ Isle; and the road between these two places, some years ago, for nine miles, was made by a kind of causeway of logs.[23] There has been {36} lately an Act of the Assembly of Pennsylvania for forming a turnpike over it.

PRESQ’ ISLE, which owed its name to the form of a large point of land jutting into the Lake, and by its curvature making a very commodious harbour capable of admitting vessels drawing nine feet of water, is now called ERIE; having been laid out a few years since by the Legislature of the State upon a large scale, and made the shire town of Erie county. Commanding an extensive trade through the Lakes, and then down the Alleghany, Ohio, and Missisippi, the situation of this place was considered as very important, and great encouragement was given to settlers. But a prevailing fever for some time retarded the settlement. It is said, however, that this obstacle is now nearly, if not entirely removed; and that the place rapidly increases in population and importance.

A POST-OFFICE is established here, which receives the mail from Philadelphia once every second week.

LE BOEUF, now called WATERFORD, is a growing settlement at the head of the north branch of _French Creek_. A post-office is, also, kept here.

{37} THE old French fort Le Boeuf, was about two miles east from _Small Lake_. This was formerly one of the western posts, but is now evacuated.[24]

FORTY-EIGHT miles lower down on French Creek is MEADVILLE, a thriving post-town, and the seat of justice for the counties of Warren and Crawford, to the latter of which it belongs. It contains about one hundred houses, and several stores; and is a place of considerable business.[25]

IMMEDIATELY below the mouth of French Creek, at the place where it unites with the northeasterly branch of the Alleghany river, is FRANKLIN, a post-town, containing about fifty houses, and several stores. It is the shire town for Venango county. The river is here two hundred yards wide.

NEAR this was the antient post Venango, and on the scite of this town was erected Fort Franklin in the year 1787, to defend the frontiers of Pennsylvania from the depredations of the neighbouring Indians.

ABOUT one hundred miles lower down, as the river runs, or one hundred and ninety-eight from Erie, is FREEPORT, on the mouth of Buffalo Creek, and opposite {38} to KISKIMENETAS, a considerable branch of the Alleghany river. The head waters of this branch are _Little Conemaugh_ and _Stone Creek_, which rise from the foot of the Alleghany mountain, and pass in a N.N.W. direction through gaps in the Laurel Hill and Chesnut Ridge. After their junction the principal stream is called CONEMAUGH RIVER. But, having received _Black Lick_ from the N. E. and, seventeen miles from its mouth, _Loyalhannon Creek_ from the S.S.E. it is called the KISKIMENETAS RIVER. It is navigable for batteaux forty or fifty miles, and good portages are found between it and the Juniata and Potomac rivers. A batteau is a flat-bottomed boat, widest in the middle, and tapering to a point at each end, of about 1500 weight burden; and is managed by two men with paddles and setting-poles.

AT the mouth of _Sandy Creek_, a vessel of 160 tons burden was lately launched, took in her cargo, and sailed for the West-Indies.

THE principal creeks and tributary streams with which the Alleghany river is replenished, are delineated on the Map, I believe with a good degree of accuracy; but a particular account of each it was not in {39} my power to obtain. The junction of this river with the Monongahela at Pittsburg has been already mentioned.

THE Alleghany is remarkable for the clearness of its waters and the rapidity of its current; and the freshets in it are greater and more sudden than those of its connubial stream.[26] It seldom happens that it does not mark its course across the mouth of the Monongahela, with whose turbid and sluggish waters it forms a very observable contrast. It is curious, also, in the time of the spring floods to see the Alleghany full of ice, and the Monongahela entirely free. These floods are occasioned by the dissolution of the immense bodies of ice and snow accumulated during winter in those northern regions through which the river passes, and by the heavy falls of rain at the setting in and breaking up of winter.

FRIDAY, _April 15_

WE this morning arrived at PITTSBURG, a post-town in Pennsylvania, and the capital {40} of Alleghany County. It is built at the point of land formed by the junction of the two rivers; and is in N. Lat. 40° 26′ 15″, and Longitude (in time) 5 hours, 19 minutes, and 53 seconds W. of Greenwich.

IMMEDIATELY on the point was erected the old French garrison _Du Quesne_, built by M. de la Jonquier at the command of the Marquis du Quesne, Governor of Canada, in 1754.[27] General Forbes, who took it Nov. 25, 1758, built a new fort, which he called “Fort Pitt,” in honor of the Earl of Chatham; adjacent to the former, but higher up the Monongahela. It was formerly a place of some consequence in the annals of frontier settlements; but fell into decay upon its being given up by its founders. Being included in one of the manors of the Penn family, it was sold by the proprietaries, and is now laid out in house-lots as a part of the town of Pittsburg, which was built in the year 1765.

THE local situation of this place is so commanding that it has been emphatically called “the key to the Western Territory;” and it has rapidly increased in population, business, and prosperity within a few years past. It contains upwards of four hundred {41} houses, several of them large and handsomely built of brick; forty-nine are occupied as stores and shops. There are three congregations; an Episcopalian, a Presbyterian, and a Seceder. The number of inhabitants is about two thousand.

THERE are two printing-offices, each of which issue a weekly news-paper; and many mechanics, who carry on most of the manufactures that are to be met with in any other part of the United States. Two glass-houses have been lately erected, and are wrought to great advantage.[28] They make window-glass, bottles, &c. This is an establishment of the first importance to this part of the country; for the transportation of these brittle articles from Philadelphia over the mountains has been attended with much hazard, as well as expense. Articles of cabinet work are, also, made at Pittsburg of their native woods, which supply many of the settlements on both sides of the Ohio and Missisippi. The furniture made of the black walnut, wild cherry, and yellow birch, is very strong and handsome, and admits of a beautiful polish. The tinplate manufactory, that for cutting nails, and the smiths’ shops for making axes and {42} farming utensils, find a ready and extensive market for all their articles.

DRY goods in general are sold nearly as cheap as at Baltimore; other goods, are, on account of the carriage, which is four dollars fifty cents from Baltimore and five dollars pr. 100 lbs. from Philadelphia, proportionably higher. The merchants here, as well as those of the western country, receive their goods from Philadelphia and Baltimore; but a small part of the trade being given to New-York and Alexandria. The terms of credit are generally from nine to twelve months. The produce which they receive of the farmers is sent to New Orleans; the proceeds of which are remitted to the Atlantic States, to meet their payments.

Most of the articles of merchandize brought in waggons over the mountains in the summer season, and destined for the trade down the river, are stored at this place, to be ready for embarkation. With these a great many trading boats are laden, which float down the river, stopping at the towns on its banks to vend the articles. In a country, so remote from commerce, and of so great extent, where each one resides {43} on his own farm, and has neither opportunity nor convenience for visiting a market, these trading boats contribute very much to the accommodation of life, by bringing to every man’s house those little necessaries which it would be very troublesome to go a great distance to procure.

AT and near this place, ship-building is an object of great attention. Several vessels are now on the stocks; and three have been launched this spring, from 160 to 275 tons burden.

THE principal navigation of the Ohio river is during the floods of the spring and autumn. The spring season commences at the breaking up of the ice in the Alleghany, which generally happens about the middle of February, and continues for eight or ten weeks. The fall season is occasioned by the autumnal rains in October, and lasts till about the beginning of December, when the ice begins to form. But the times of high-water can scarcely be called periodical; for they vary considerably as the season is dry or rainy, and with the later setting in or breaking up of winter. Sometimes, also, the falling of heavy showers on the mountains, during the summer, will so {44} swell the sources of the Monongahela as to supply a temporary sufficiency of water for the purpose of navigation.

IN the time of the freshets the Ohio rises from fifteen to thirty feet, and sometimes even higher; overflowing its banks to a very considerable distance. The rise is generally sudden, often ten feet in twenty-four hours. The increase is not regular. At times the water will fall four or five feet, and then rise again. The flood maintains its greatest height about a week or ten days, and then gradually subsides, till the river is reduced to its usual depth. By spreading over the flat lands a rich coating of leaves, decayed vegetables, and loam, washed down by the rain from the sides of the hills, these inundations greatly promote the fertility of the soil.

FORT FAYETTE, built a few years since, is within the limits of the town of Pittsburg. It is erected on the banks of the Alleghany. At present a garrison is kept there, which, for the most part, is made head-quarters of the United States army.[29]

THE high ground back of the fort, called “Grant’s hill,” commands a most extensive prospect, taking in a view of the two rivers {45} for several miles above and below their junction.[30]

THE inhabitants use the water of the river here and down the Ohio for drink and cookery, even in preference to the spring water from the hills; for as yet they have not practised the digging of wells. At first we were surprised at this preference; but they assured us that the river water was more wholesome and generally much more palatable. We were soon convinced that this must be the case: for, though the river water receives a great deal of decayed wood, leaves, &c. from the creeks and runs that empty into it, they are soon deposited on the shallows, and the deeper places are very clear and fine. Even the turbid water of the margin of the stream becomes pellucid by standing in an open vessel over night, depositing its feculencies at the bottom. But the spring water, issuing through fissures in the hills, which are only masses of coal, is so impregnated with bituminous and sulphureous particles as to be frequently nauseous to the taste and prejudicial to the health.

WE observed several people near Pittsburg affected with a tumour on the throat {46} like a wen. Inquiring into the cause of it, we were informed that they imputed it to some effect of the climate under the brows of the high mountains where they reside, and added that even dogs and some other animals were subject to it. Indeed we saw a couple of goats who had this uncomfortable appendage to their necks.

THE _Seneca Indian Oil_ in so much repute here is _Petroleum_; a liquid bitumen, which oozes through fissures of the rocks and coal in the mountains, and is found floating on the surface of the waters of several springs in this part of the country, whence it is skimmed off, and kept for use. From a strong vapour which arises from it when first collected, it appears to combine with it sulphureous particles. It is very inflammable. In these parts it is used as a medicine; and, probably, in external applications with considerable success. For chilblains and rheumatism it is considered as an infallible specific. I suppose it to be the bitumen which Pliny describes under the name of Naptha, Lib. II. ch. 105.

{47} TUESDAY, _April 19_

CROSSED the ferry over the Monongahela, opposite the glass-houses, and pursued our journey.

THE country is very mountainous and broken, and the road extremely rough and difficult. We were told that our’s was the first private carriage that had ever passed it, having been but lately opened, and used only by strong waggons and carts.

WE dined at CANNONSBURG, a post-town, pleasantly situated on rising ground near the north side of the west branch of Chartier’s Creek. It is 18 miles S. W. from Pittsburg, and 9 miles N. E. from Washington. It contains about 100 houses, and has two congregations, and meeting-houses; a Presbyterian and a Seceder. It has been settled but twelve years, and already puts on the appearance of a long cultivated region. There is an Academy here in a very flourishing state; and the last session of the Assembly a charter was granted for a College.[31]

AT WASHINGTON, the chief town of a county of the same name in Pennsylvania, situated on another branch of Chartier’s Creek, we stopped to lodge.

{48} A COURT-HOUSE and a large building for public offices, of brick; and a Gaol and an Academy, of stone, with a large number of handsomely built dwelling-houses, give this town a very respectable appearance. It seems to be a place of considerable business, and of thriving manufactories and trade.[32]

WEDNESDAY, _April 20_

PASSED through ALEXANDRIA, a small town in Washington County, Pennsylvania, on the Virginia line. It contains between fifty and sixty dwelling-houses, and has a large and decent house for public worship.[33] It is sixteen miles S. W. from Washington, and the same distance N. E. from Wheeling.

WE dined at _Shepherd’s Mills_ on Wheeling Creek, having winded along a most romantic valley between high mountains, and repeatedly crossed [seventeen times in about five miles] the beautiful stream running through it.[34]

THE proprietor of these mills resides in one of the best built and handsomest stone houses we saw on this side of the mountains.[35]

QUITTING this secluded vale, we passed over a high chain of mountains, whence we {49} overlooked the town of Wheeling, and enjoyed fine and extensive views of a hilly and well-wooded country, intersected by the river Ohio.--We then descended into the town.

WHEELING is a post-town, in Ohio County, Virginia, healthily and pleasantly situated on the sloping sides of a hill gracefully rising from the banks of the Ohio. It is laid out principally on one street; and most of the houses are handsome, several being built with brick, and some with faced stone.[36]

IT is twelve miles S. W. of West Liberty, and fifty-four miles from Pittsburg; three hundred and thirty-two miles from Philadelphia, and twelve miles above Grave Creek.

IT is increasing very rapidly in population and in prosperous trade; and is, next to Pittsburg, the most considerable place of embarkation to traders and emigrants, any where on the western waters. During the dry season great quantities of merchandize are brought hither, designed to supply the inhabitants on the Ohio river and the waters that flow into it; as boats can go from {50} hence, when they cannot from places higher up the river.

BOAT-BUILDING is carried on at this place to a great extent; and several large keel boats and some vessels have been built.

OPPOSITE the town is a most beautiful island in the river, containing about four hundred acres. Interspersed with buildings, highly cultivated fields, some fine orchards, and copses of wood, it appears to great advantage from the town, and forms a very interesting part of the prospect. After the eyes have been strained in viewing the vast amphitheatre of country all around, or dazzled with tracing the windings of the river, they are agreeably rested and refreshed by the verdure and beauty of Wheeling Island.

AT Wheeling we left our carriage, and took passage down the river in a keel boat.

JUST below the town stands an old Fort, at the point of land formed by the junction of Big Wheeling Creek and the Ohio river.