Part 4
The 5th passed more Prairies intersected by strips of Forest. My guide killed an Elk called Cerf by the Canadians and French of Illinois. This animal is much larger (twice as large) than the dwarf Deer of the United States of which there is an abundance also in the Illinois country and which the French of these countries call Chevreuil. Its antlers are twice the size of those of the European Stags. Below each of its two eyes is a cavity which keeps closed but, by separating the two sides like eyelids, one can insert a finger to the depth of an inch. This cavity seems intended for the purpose of secreting some kind of humor. In fact on opening the cavity I found a substance of the form and consistency of a hare’s dropping but of the size of an acorn. This animal has canine teeth in the upper and lower jaw like those of horses, called fangs. The hunters say that this animal is always very fat. In fact this one was exceedingly so. Traveled about 32 Miles.
The 6th entered the forests and crossed several rivers. Traveled ... miles.
The 7th of October 1795 my guide killed a Buffalo which he considered to be about four years old. It seemed to weigh over nine hundred pounds. As it was not very fat my guide told me it was very common to see animals at that age weighing over twelve hundred pounds. It seemed larger than any Oxen in France and to surpass them in length and size.
Thursday the 8th saw another Buffalo thirty toises from our Road. We stopped to look at it. It walked very slowly but after a couple of minutes it stopped and, recognizing us, ran away with extraordinary speed. On the same day arrived at Fort Cheroquis otherwise called Fort Massac by the Americans.[139] 125 Miles.
The 9th of October 1795 herborised on the bank of the Mississipi: _Platanus Liquidamber Bonducs_, pekan Nut-trees, hiccory Nut-trees, called by the French Noyers durs; prickly Nuts (by the French Noyer amer) round Nuts. White Oak, _Quercus alba_, _Quercus rubra ramosissima_, _Quercus cerroides_ (by the French chêne frisé and by the Americans overcup White Oak), _Quercus prinus_, _Quercus integrifolia_[140] or _Quercus foliis junioribus omnibus et adultis semper integerrimis margine undulatis apice setaceis_. This species of oak abounds in the Illinois Country. It loses its leaves later than the other species of Oak. The French inhabitants call it Chêne à lattes. In Lower Carolina it is rather rare but keeps its leaves until the month of February or March. It seems to resemble the green Oak from which it differs in the shape of its acorns.
_Nyssa montana_ rather rare; _Gleditsia triacanthos_; _Robinia pseudoacacia_ (by the French fevier). The _Gleditsia triacanthos_ is called fevier épineux and the _Guilandina dioica_ Gros fevier and the seeds _Gourganes_. Note. On the Illinois river is a species or variety of _Guilandina dioica_ whose seeds are twice as big as those on the Banks of the Mississipi, Cumberland etc. _Liana Rajanioides_; _Anonymos_[141] _ligustroides_; _Vitis_[142] _monosperma_, this species is found along the Rivers and not in the interior of the forest; I saw it on the Kaskaskia River, on the Mississipi in the vicinity of fort Massac, on the Tenasse river, but it completely covers the banks of the Cumberland river from its mouth to a distance of 45 Miles.
Sunday 11th of October 1795 started with a Guide to ascend the Cumberland (Shavanon) river[143] in a Canoe. The rain compelled us to return.
Tuesday the 13th hired two men at a dollar a day each to ascend the Rivers of the Territory of the Cheroquis Savages. Started from fort Cheroquis or Fort Massac. The distance is six Miles to reach the mouth of the Tenassee River called by the French of Illinois Cheroquis River.[144] This river is very great and very wide. After ascending it about six miles we saw the tracks of a Bear on the bank. We stopped and entered the wood when we came upon a she Bear with cubs. The dog pursued the Mother, the cubs climbed a tree; I killed one and the guides killed the two others. We passed the night at that place.
The 14th very heavy Fog; we made only 5 Miles. Rain began to fall about noon.
The 16th paddled or rowed about ten Miles owing to a heavy Wind that began by a storm the previous evening and continued a part of the day. We camped opposite an Island or Chain of Rocks running nearly across the River. Nevertheless there is a channel on the south Bank that is fairly deep and sufficient for the passage of large boats.
Banks of the Cheroquis river (Tenassee): _Platanus_; _Juglans pacana, Hiccori_, pignut; _Liquidambar_; _Quercus rubra, prinus_; _Anonymos carpinoides_; _Anonymos ligustroides_;[145] _Betula austrolis_ grey-bark Birch,[146] which is found throughout America from Virginia to the Floridas; it differs from the _Betula papyrifera_; _Bignonia catalpa_; _Ulmus_; _Fraxinus_; _Vitis rubra_ or _monosperma_; _Gleditsia triacanthos_; _Diospiros_; _Smilax pseudochina_; _Bignonia crucigera_, _radicans_; _Rajania ... Dioecia 8-dria_; _Populus Caroliniana_, by the French Creoles Liard, and by the Americans Cotton tree. (Note: The Canada Poplar is called by the Canadians Tremble and by the English of Canada Quaking Aspen); _Acer rubrum, saccharinum, negundo_; _Anonymos ligustroides_; _Anonymos ulmoides_.[147]
(The 22nd of June 1795, according to the Gazette the Agents of the French Republic were recognized by President Washington
Philip Joseph Letombe, Consul General
Théodore Charles Mozard, Consul at Boston
Jean Anthony Bern Rosier, Consul at New York
Léon Delaunay, Pennsylvania
Louis Etienne Duhait, Maryland)[148]
The 15th October 1795 herborised.
The 16th descended the river and camped at the mouth of the Shavanon River called Cumberland river by the Americans eighteen Miles from fort Massac; killed a Canada Goose called by the French Canadians and Illinois French Outarde; killed two water-Hens an American kingfisher, an American pelican.
The 17th ascended the River about ten Miles; there were numbers of wild Turkeys on the banks; the Rowers and I killed five from the Canoe in passing, without landing.
The 18th continued on our way toward the upper part of the River.
The 19th descended the river.
Tuesday 20th of October 1795 returned to Fort Cheroquis or Fort Massac.
Trees and Plants in the neighborhood on the Banks of the Ohio.
_Platanus occidentalis_, by the Americans Sycamore and by the Illinois French cotonnier; _Populus_, by the Americans Cotton tree and by the Illinois French, Liard; _Celtis occidentalis_, by the Americans Hackberry tree and by the French Bois inconnu; _Liquidambar styraciflua_, by the French of Louisiana Copalm and by the Americans....
A Frenchman who traded among the Cheroquis Savages cured himself of the Itch by drinking for ten days a decoction of Chips of that tree which he called Copalm and which is the true _Liquidambar_; _Gleditsia triacanthos_, fevier (bean-plant) by the French and sweet locust by the Americans.
_Guilandina dioica._[149]
Sunday 25th of October 1795 _Spiraea trifoliata_ is a purgative used by the Savages and by the Illinois French. They call it Papiconah. In the neighborhood of Fort Cheroquis is found also the Geranium called herbe or rather Racine à Becquet which is given for chronic Diseases during several weeks; _Veronica virginica_ called by the French herbe à quatre feuilles (four-leaved grass) is often added.
Sunday first of November I was obliged to defer my departure, my Horse not having been found.
Friday the 6th my Horse was brought back to the Fort and I at once made ready to start for the Illinois. Started the same day and journeyed about 18 Miles.
The 7th the Rain began early in the morning and continued all day. Remained camped under a Rock where I had stopped the previous day with my Guide.
Sunday the 8th traveled through woods and Hills.
The 9th, the same.
The 10th arrived toward evening at the Prairies.
The 11th crossed the Prairies.
The 12th toward evening Re-entered the Woods once more and slept 7 Miles from Kaskaskia river.
The 13th arrived before breakfast at Kaskaskia about 130 Miles from Fort Massac.
The 13th of November I rested.
Sunday the 14th went out to hunt Canada Geese.
The 15th put my Collections of seeds in order.
The 16th same occupation.
The 17th I went Hunting.
Thursday 18th started for Prairie du Rocher.
The 19th Duck Hunting.
The 20th Goose Hunting.
Sunday 22nd paid visits.
The 23rd, 24th, 25th, 26th, 27th and 28th visited the Mountains of Rock bordering on the inhabited Country; Opossums, Raccoons, aquatic Birds etc.
Sunday 29th of November went to the Village of St Philippe called the Little Village.
The 30th visited Fort de Chartres.
Tuesday the 1st of December started for Kaskaskias and remained there.
The 2nd and 3rd of the same Made arrangements with Richard[150] to go by water to Cumberland.
The 4th returned to Prairie du Rocher.
The 5th prepared to start. Stuffed a white-headed wild Goose.
The 6th started once more for Kaskaskias.
The 7th confirmed once more in my opinion that the Second Bark of _Celtis occidentalis_ (called in the Illinois country Bois connu and toward New Orleans Bois inconnu) is an excellent remedy for curing jaundice; a handful of the roots or leaves of Smilax sarsaparilla is added to it; it is used for about eight days as a decoction.
The 8th of December 1795. The French Creoles call the species of Smilax found in the Illinois country, Squine. Only the thorny species grows there; it loses its leaves in the Autumn. The other species is herbaceous and climbing.
The 9th of December. The root of _Fagara_ as a decoction is a powerful remedy for curing disease of the Spleen. I have no doubt that the root of _Zanthoxilum clava-Herculi_ can be used for obstructions of the liver and Spleen.
The 10th: _Bignonia Catalpa_,[151] by the French Creoles Bois Shavanon; _Cercis canadensis_, Bois noir (black wood); _Liriodendron tulipifera_, Bois jaune (yellow wood); _Nyssa_, Olivier (olive). In making Wheels for vehicles the workmen use the Wood of _Padus Virginiana_ for the felloes, Elm for the Naves and white oak for the Spokes.
The 11th of December. Confirmed once more in my opinion that the root of _Veronica Virginiana_, vulgarly known as Herbe à quatre feuilles (four-leaved grass), used as a decoction for a month, is effective for the cure of venereal Diseases. Four or five of the roots are boiled. As this beverage is purgative the strength of this Ptisan must be increased or reduced by putting more or less according to the effect it has on one. It is sufficient for the first days that the bowels be relaxed and looser than usual; it is not unusual that the bowels be moved 3 or 4 times the first day.
I was informed at Illinois that Mackey a Scotchman and Even a Welshman, started at the end of July 1795 from St Louis to ascend the Missouri in a 4 oared Barge. They are aided by a Company whereof Charles Morgan, a creole from the Islands, is Manager.[152]
December the [12th] 1795.
Sunday the 13th made my preparations for the journey to Cumberland.
The 14th started for Cumberland; passed the Salt spring on Spanish territory. Observed _Tagetoides_. Learned the news of the peace between France and Spain. Slept six miles from the Salt spring. Observed on the banks of the Mississipi river _Equisetum_ which the French Creoles call Prêle. This Plant has here a circumference of nearly one inch and the stalk is 4 feet high.
The 15th passed Cape St Côme[153] at the foot of which the Mississipi makes an angle. Fish is caught here in abundance; the distance from Kaskaskia is eighteen Miles. Camped at Girardeau[154] 17 leagues from Kaskaskia.
The 16th continued for 6 hours with Hills and Rocks on the shores of the river, then low land. We camped at the place where the Belle Rivière [Ohio] falls into the Mississipi. On the opposite bank was camped Governor Don Gayoso, Governor of Natchez and upper Louisiana.[155] He sent a Boat to find out who we were and, learning that I was a passenger, he came to see me. He told me the news of the Peace between France and Spain. He offered me his services. The distance from Cape Girardeau to the Mouth of the Belle Rivière is eighteen leagues and in all 35 leagues from Illinois.
The 17th camped at a distance of about 7 leagues.
The 18th arrived near Fort Massac; seven leagues.
The 19th camped opposite the Mouth of the River Cheroquis or Tenasse.
Sunday the 20th passed by la Pacanière; this is an extensive Swamp on the North West side bordered by Pekan Nut-trees situate opposite or rather a little before entering the Cumberland River.
The same day Sunday 20th of December, entered the River Shavanon or Cumberland River the mouth of which is six long leagues from Fort Massac. Slept two leagues above the Mouth.
The 21st rowed about 8 leagues.
The 22nd rowed about 7 leagues, and slept at the great Eddy which is considered to be at a distance of forty five miles from the mouth.[156]
The 23rd we camped above the Isle aux Saules (Willow Island); rowed about 12 Miles or 4 leagues.
The 24th remained in camp. Rained all day. The River which was very easy to navigate until today, rose considerably and flooded the woods.
The 25th Rain continued to fall mixed with hail. Remained in Camp.
The 26th Remained in camp on account of the rising of the river whose current was too strong.
Sunday 27th of December 1795. rowed about 4 Miles only owing to the difficulty of rowing against the current of the river. Camped at the mouth of Little River.
The 28th crossed to the opposite bank. The current was as rapid as on the previous days and compelled us to camp. White frost.
The 29th it again Rained heavily. Remained in camp.
The 30th the River having overflowed and flooded all parts of the woods, we shifted camp and returned to the Little river; we ascended it until we came to a Hill high enough to relieve us from the fear of being flooded. Rain.
The 31st the weather became clear, the wind shifted to the North but the river continued to overflow its banks. Most of us went hunting wild Turkeys.
Friday first of January 1796. Wind from the north; Frost; the River rose one inch during the night.
In the vicinity of Little river, the Country has Hills scattered here and there. Soil clayey, very rich Mould, Rock consisting of Silex very slightly ferruginous. Blue Limestone.
Animals: Raccoons, dwarf Deer, Opossums, Buffaloes, Bears, grey Squirrels, Beaver, Otter, Musk-rats (these three species very rare).
Birds: Ravens, Owls of the large species, Cardinals, blue Jays; green Parroquets with yellow heads of the small species; Jays with red heads and throats.
Trees and Plants: _Liriodendron_; _Liquidambar_; yellow chestnut Oak, red Oak; _Annona_; horn-bean.
The 2nd of January, still remained in camp at the same spot. Weather cloudy. The River fell two inches only.
Sunday the 3rd Heavy wind. _Nyassa montana_ is called by the French Creoles Olivier Sauvage and by the Kentucky Americans Black Gum tree and by the Pennsylvania Americans Tupelo. Having nothing to do I made ink with gall nuts which I gathered on the Oaks in the vicinity of the spot where we were camped. It was made in less than five minutes and will serve me as a sample. In the neighborhood of Little river _Liriodendron_; _Liquidambar_; _Carpinus ostrya_; _Ulmus fungosa_; _Padus Virginiana minor_; _Laurus benzoin_ etc.
The 4th rowed about 4 or 5 Miles. Camped near rather high Hills consisting of shifting soil and rolled boulders. _Carpinus ostrya_; _Ulmus fungosa_; _Padus Virginiana minor_; _Philadelphus inodorus_; _Nyssa montana_, by the Americans Black gum; _Acer rubrum_; _Viscum parasite_; _Fagus Americana_ and _Orobanche Virginiana_ a parasite on the roots of the _Fagus Americana_; _Betula spuria_[157] called by the French Bouleau bâtard.
Tuesday 5th of January 1796 we rowed 7 Miles and camped opposite Diev Island 12 Miles from Little River.
The 6th the snow that fell during the night had cooled the weather. Steep limestone Rocks from the place where we were camped continuing for about a Mile on the east bank. Rowed about 8 Miles.
The 7th The River fell 19 inches during the night; as the frost had lowered the water this led us to hope that it would be easier to row against the current of this river which is naturally hemmed in between Hills. Rowed about 8 Miles.
The 8th the river fell 19 inches during the night. Passed by the Island of the boundary line between Cumberland and Kentuckey.
Plants on the Banks: _Platanus occidentalis_; _Betula australis_ or _spuria_; _Acer rubrum_; _Ulmus Americana_; _Fraxinus_; _Salix_ on the low Islands; _Anonymos ligustroides_. Rowed about 10 Miles.
The 9th the river fell nearly five feet during the night. We rowed about ten Miles.
Sunday 10th of January the River fell 4 feet during the night. Continual Rain and Snow. Passed Yellow Creek 16 Miles before reaching Clark’s ville. Passed Blowming grove (?) 13 Miles before reaching Clark’s ville. Rocks and Hills. Passed Dixon Island (?) 10 Miles before reaching Clark’s ville and at present the most remote Settlement of Cumberland territory. This Settlement consists of fifteen families who established themselves there three months ago. The chief place of this settlement is called Blount’s borough or Blount’s ville.
The 11th Rained all the previous night and a portion of the day. Passed by a chain of Hills and by a rock called Red painted rock on the right side of the River that is to say on the north bank of the river 2 Miles from Clark’s ville. Afterwards passed by the red river whose mouth is likewise on the north side and a quarter of a mile from Clark’s ville. Finally arrived at Clark’s ville.[158]
The 12th of January 1796, remained at Clark’s ville on account of the river rising.
The 13th Doctor Brown of Carolina who had come to found this new town Blount’s borough 10 Miles above Clark’s ville, was at the latter place.[159]
* * * * *
The 15th bought a horse at the price of one hundred Dollars.
The 16th departed; my horse ran away and I caught him 6 Miles from Clark’s ville at the Mill, 10 Miles.
Sunday the 17th dined 10 Miles from Nashville at Ebneston’s a quarter of a Mile from the Mill at the house of an old Pennsylvanian, an educated man well informed as regards foreign news.[160] Slept at Crokes 18 Miles from Ebneston. The Widow Martin lives near there and her house is better for travelers.
The 18th passed the Ridges, 15 Miles, without seeing any houses as far as White Creek. Old Stumps[161] lives 5 miles from White Creek.
The 19th started from Stumps’ and arrived at Nashville 5 Miles.
Total from Clark’s ville to Nashville 54 Miles by land and 70 Miles by water.
From St Louis to Kaskaskias 94 From Kaskaskias to the place where the Ohio falls into the Mississipi 95 Miles From there to fort Massac 45 Miles From there to the mouth of the Cumberland river 18 Miles From there to Clark’s ville on the red river 120 Miles From there to Nashville 60 Miles --------- Total 432 Miles 432 ---------
(Prices at Nashville): Dinner 2 shillings, Breakfast or supper 1 shilling 4 pence; ½ Quart of Whiskey 1 shilling. Hay and maize for Horse 2 shillings. The whole is six Shillings for one Dollar.
The 20th, 21st, and 22nd remained at Nashville.
The 23rd started from Nashville and journeyed 29¾ Miles; lodged with Major Sharp.
Sunday the 24th of January 1796 arrived at a Creek at a distance of 29 Miles near which one Chapman keeps lodgings at 3½ Miles; MacFaddin on Big Brown [Barren] keeps a ferry and lodgings. Total 32½ Miles.
The 25th Rain and Snow.
The 26th Started for Green river. The ground was covered with snow, the Roads rough and my horse fell lame. I was obliged to walk. I made 12 miles. I was unable to light a fire because the trees and wood were all frosted. I spent the night nearly frozen. About 2 o’clock the Moon rose and I resolved to return to MacFaddin’s where I arrived at 10 o’clock in the morning.
The 27th being overcome by cold and weariness, having traveled afoot, having eaten nothing since the morning of the previous day and not having slept during the night, the toes of my right foot became inflamed. I bathed my feet in cold water several times during the following night and no sores resulted therefrom but for several days the toes were numb and as if deprived of sensation.
The 28th I was compelled to go a distance of seven Miles to get my horse shod and I went to sleep at Mr. Maddison’s whose plantation was close by.
The 29th of January 1796 I started very early in the morning as I had 38 Miles to travel without coming to an inn or other habitation. I had been received with all the civility that can be expected from a man who has had a higher education than the other inhabitants of the country. This Mr Maddisson was a Virginian and a relative of the celebrated Madisson, Member of Congress. This gentleman was a true Republican in his principles and I spent a very interesting and very pleasant evening at his house.[162] His wife surpassed him in offering me every service that hospitality could suggest, which is seldom met with in America except in the case of persons better educated than the common people. That Lady suggested that I should wear heavy woollen socks over my shoes. She herself cut me out a pair and I was so surprised at the comfort I derived from them on the following days that I resolved never to travel in the season of snow and frost without taking the precaution to have a pair in my Porte Monteau. In the evening I came to a place three Miles from Green river and slept at the house of one Walter; I slept on the floor and my horse in the open air; but I was accustomed to this.
The 30th I crossed the Green river ferry in the morning. The cold was excessive and such as had not been felt for Many years. At 9 Miles I passed by Bacon Creek and the Cabin of a man but recently settled there and who was unprovided with everything, even Maize, needed for the sustenance of his household. At 22 Miles from Green River is the House of one Ragon and I hurried on to reach some better habitations before night. 26 Miles from Green River I perceived a House 200 toises[163] from the Road situate on the bank of a Creek. The inhabitant was a German who had been settled there only a year; he had a good stable, was well supplied with fodder of wheat, straw, and Maize leaves for my horse, and I ate Wheat bread for the first time since I had left Illinois. My supper consisted of bread and milk and I found myself very well treated. The name of my host was George Cloes; a German by Birth; his house is situated on the South fork of Nolin river.
Sunday the 31st passed by Huggins mill[164] on Nolin river (good lodgings); at a quarter of a Mile the road on the right hand leads to Beardston. At 2½ Miles the new cut road is straight. At 9 Miles passed by Rolling fork and 4 Miles further slept at Mr. Scoth’s on Beech fork.