Part 1
# Travels and discoveries in North and Central Africa, Vol. 3 (of 5) : $b being a journal of an expedition undertaken under the auspices of H.B.M.'s Government, in the years 1849-1855 ### By Barth, Heinrich
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[Illustration: Drawn by J. M. Bernatz, from a Sketch by Dr. Barth.
M. & N. Hanhart, lith. et impt.
MÚSGU CHIEF.]
TRAVELS AND DISCOVERIES IN NORTH AND CENTRAL AFRICA: BEING A JOURNAL OF AN EXPEDITION UNDERTAKEN UNDER THE AUSPICES OF H.B.M.’S GOVERNMENT, IN THE YEARS 1849-1855.
BY HENRY BARTH, PH.D., D.C.L. FELLOW OF THE ROYAL GEOGRAPHICAL AND ASIATIC SOCIETIES, _&c. &c._
IN FIVE VOLUMES. VOL. III.
LONDON: LONGMAN, BROWN, GREEN, LONGMANS, & ROBERTS. 1857.
_The right of translation is reserved._
LONDON: Printed by SPOTTISWOODE & CO. New-street Square.
CONTENTS OF THE THIRD VOLUME.
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## CHAPTER XXXVIII.
Page
Rainy Season in Kúkawa 1
Supplies. — The Herbage. — Tropical Rains. — Mr. Vogel’s Statement. — The Winged Ant. — Various Kinds of Cultivation. — Intended Excursion to Kánem. — Mr. Overweg’s Memoranda. — Political Situation of Bórnu. — The Turks in Central Africa. — Sókoto and Wádáy. — The Festival. — Ceremonies of Festivity. — Dependent Situation. — My Horse.
CHAP. XXXIX.
Expedition to Kánem 23
Money-matters settled. — A Repentant Servant. — Delights of Open Encampment. — Dawerghú. — Treatment by Slaves. — Variety of Trees. — Scarcity of Water. — The Town of Yó. — Marriage Customs. — Character of the Country. — Arrival of Mr. Overweg. — Banks of the River. — Character of our Freebooting Companions. — Crossing the River. — Town of Báruwa. — View of the Tsád. — Native Salt. — Desolate Country. — Ninety-six Elephants. — Another Scene of Plunder. — Arrival at Berí. — Importance of Berí. — Fresh-water Lakes and Natron. — Submerged in a Bog. — A Large Snake. — The Valleys and Vales of Kánem. — Arrival at the Arab Camp.
CHAP. XL.
The Horde of the Welád Slimán 61
The Welád Slimán. — Their Power. — Slaughter of the Welád Slimán. — Interview with Sheikh Ghét. — Interview with ʿOmár. — Specimen of Predatory Life. — Runaway Female Slave. — Rich Vales. — Large Desertion. — A Jewish Adventurer. — Musical Box. — False Alarm.
CHAP. XLI.
Shitáti. — The Eastern, more favoured, Valleys of Kánem 81
Bír el Ftáim. — The Fugábú. — Projects frustrated. — Kárká and the Keghámma. — Elephant’s Track. — Bóro. — Bérendé. — Towáder. — Beautiful Vale. — Preparations for Attack. — Left behind. — Regularly-formed Valley. — Hénderi Síggesí. — Attack by the Natives. — Much Anxiety. — Join our Friends. — Encampment at Áláli Ádia. — Visited by the Keghámma. — Camp taken. — Restless Night. — Fine Vale Tákulum. — Vales of Shitáti. — Return to the principal Camp. — Wádáy Horsemen. — Set out on return to Kúkawa. — Departure from Kánem. — Alarms. — The Komádugu again. — Return to Kúkawa.
CHAP. XLII.
Warlike Preparations against Mándará 118
Set out on another Expedition. — The Camp, or Ngáufate. — The _Chef de Police_ Lamíno. — Army in motion. — Lamíno again. — Major Denham’s Adventure. — The Town of Márte. — Ála. — Encampment at Díkowa. — Firearms and Civilization. — Slavery and Slave-trade. — The Shúwa. — The Interior of Díkowa. — Industry. — Banks of the Yálowe. — Cotton Plantations. — The Camp Market. — Friendly Services. — Important Information. — Háj Edrís.
CHAP. XLIII.
The Border-region of the Shúwa 149
News from Mándará. — Áfagé. — Thieves forced to Fight. — The Sweet Sorghum. — Variations of Temperature. — Shallow Watercourses. — Subjection of Mándará. — Extensive Rice-fields. — Hard Ground. — Elephants. — The Court of Ádishén. — The Army on the March. — The Súmmoli. — The Army badly off. — Entering the Músgu Country. — Industry pillaged. — Native Architecture. — Affinity of the Músgu. — Their chief Places. — The Adventurous Chieftain. — Ádishén. — Christmas Events.
CHAP. XLIV.
The Country of the Shallow Rivers. — Water-parting between the Rivers Bénuwé and Shárí 186
The Deléb-palm. — New Features. — Worship of Ancestors. — Cut off from the Army. — Spoil and Slaughter. — Alarm and Cowardice. — Músgu Weapons. — The Túburi not attacked. — Ngáljam of Démmo. — Destruction. — New Year. — Pagan Chiefs and Priests. — Fine Landscape. — The River of Logón. — Singular Water-combat. — The Túburi and their Lake. — The Swampy Character of the Ngáljam. — The River again. — Water-communication. — Plucky Pagans. — Balls and Stones. — Consequences of Slave-hunts. — Penetrating Southward.
CHAP. XLV.
Return to Bórnu 229
Another Alarm. — Policy of Negroland. — Cattle Indigenous or Imported. — Another District Plundered. — The Músgu Slave. — Narrow Escape. — Attack by Bees. — African Netherlands. — Miseries of Slave-hunts. — Barren Country. — Residence of Kábishmé. — Native Architecture. — Ground-plan of a Dwelling. — Amount of Booty. — Wáza. — Encampment at Wáza. — Re-arrival at Kúkawa.
CHAP. XLVI.
Setting out for Bagírmi. — The Country of Kótokó 260
Mestréma the Consul of Bagírmi. — Setting out for Bagírmi. — Remains of Pagan Rites. — _Poa Abyssinica_. — The Water. — Arborescent _Euphorbiacea_ — Scarcity of Water. — Ngála; Buildings; Language. — Rén. — Áfadé. — Historical View of Kótokó. — Former towns of the Soy.
CHAP. XLVII.
Province of Logón. — Logón Bírni 281
Kála, New Character. — Húlluf. — The Deléb-palm again. — Reception in the Kárnak. — The Ibálaghwán. — Palace of the Sultan. — Sultan Ýsuf. — The River. — The Water-king. — Embarking on the River. — Names of Rivers. — Bathing in the River. — Historical Account of Logón. — Date of their Islám. — Government. — Food. — Manufactures. — Language.
CHAP. XLVIII.
The two Rivers. — Entrance into Bagírmi 310
Crossing the River. — Animated Scenery. — Political State of the Country. — The Real Shárí. — River Scenery. — Sent back by the Ferrymen. — Intrigues and Fears. — Trying another Ford. — The Shárí at Mélé. — Character of the Natives. — Entering a Country by Stealth. — Overtaken. — Residence at Mélé. — Ordered to wait at Búgomán. — Character of the River. — Mustáfají. — The Shárí again. — Sent back from Búgomán. — Búgarí. — Mókorí. — Arrival at Bákadá. — Háj Bú-Bakr Sadík. — Decay of Bagírmi. — Destructive Insects. — Character of Bákadá. — The Natives. — Intercourse. — Trees of Negroland. — Return of Messenger.
CHAP. XLIX.
Endeavour to leave the Country. — Arrested. — Final Entrance into Más-eñá. — Its characteristic Features 351
Stay in Mókorí. — Importance of Needles. — Want of Water. — Leaving the right Track. — A Night in the Wilderness. — Kókoroché. — Mélé again. — Laid in Irons. — Released. — Return Eastward. — Arrival at the Capital. — The Lieutenant-governor. — Háj Áhmed. — The Fáki Sámbo. — Mohammedan Learning. — The Fáki Íbrahím. — Suspected of being a Rain-maker. — Superstition of the Natives. — Becoming Retail Dealer. — The Market. — Articles of Commerce. — Difficulties of a Journey into Wádáy. — Market of Ábú-Gher.
CHAP. L.
Description of the Town. — Arrival of the Sultan. — Final Departure 388
General Character of Más-eñá. — The Palace. — The Bedá. — Patients. — The other Sex. — Occurrences of Daily Life. — Battle with Ants. — Arrival of the Sultan. — The Sultan’s Retinue. — His Entry into the Town. — Despatches and Letters. — A Serious Visit. — Escape by Frankness. — Audience with the Sultan. — Asked for a Cannon. — Pardoning Enemies. — Death of Máina Beládemí. — Present from the Sultan. — Reward of Friends. — Departure from the Capital.
CHAP. LI.
Historical Survey of Bagírmi. — General Condition of the Country and its Inhabitants 425
Scarcity of Information. — The Dájó. — The Kingdom of Gaoga. — Introduction of Islám. — Early History of Bagírmi. — Foundation of Más-eñá. — The Kings ʿAbd-Allah and Mohammed. — Restless Reign of ʿOthmán. — Subjection to Wádáy. — Struggle with Bórnu. — The Present King ʿAbd el Káder. — His Policy. — General Character of Bagírmi. — Mountain Gére. — No Snow on Mountains. — Edible _Poa_. — Vegetable Produce. — Arms. — Language. — Dress. — Government. — Tribute. — Power of the Sultan.
CHAP. LII.
Home-journey to Kúkawa. — Death of Mr. Overweg 456
Pleasant Starting. — Bákadá Hospitality. — Ásu and the Shárí. — The Shúwa of Mókoró. — River of Logón. — Difficulty of Proceeding without Delay. — Áfadé. — Crossing Rivers. — Bogheówa. — Meeting with Mr. Overweg. — Treaty signed. — Money-matters. — Rising of the Komádugu. — Mr. Overweg’s last Excursion. — Death of Mr. Overweg. — His Grave on the Shore of the Tsád.
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APPENDIX I.
Account of the Eastern Parts of Kánem, from Native Information 481
Mʿawó and its Neighbourhood 483
I. — Itinerary from Mʿawó to Tághghel, directly South 484
II. — From Berí to Tághghel, going along the Border of the Lake 486
III. — The Bahr el Ghazal, called “Burrum” by the Kánembú, and “Féde” by the Tebu Gurʿaán 487
Mondó, Egé, Búrku, Tribes of the Tebu or Tedá 489
APPENDIX II.
Geographical Details contained in “the Diván,” or Account given by the Imám Áhmed ben Sofíya of the Expeditions of the King Edrís Alawóma from Bórnu to Kánem 498
First Expedition 498
Second Expedition 507
Third Expedition 508
Fourth Expedition 511
Fifth Expedition 517
Last Expedition to the Borders of Kánem; Treaty 519
APPENDIX III.
Account of the various Detachments of Cavalry composing the Bórnu Army in the Expedition to Músgu 521
APPENDIX IV.
Towns and Villages of the Province of Logón or Lógone 525
APPENDIX V.
Copy of a Despatch from Lord Palmerston 526
APPENDIX VI.
Historical Sketch of Wádáy 528
APPENDIX VII.
Ethnographical Account of Wádáy 539
APPENDIX VIII.
Government of Wádáy 554
APPENDIX IX.
Collection of Itineraries for fixing the Topography of Wádáy, and those parts of Bagírmi which I did not visit myself 563
I. — Roads from Más-eñá to Wára 563
II. — Routes in the Interior of Wádáy 570
III. — Routes in the Interior of Bagírmi 588
APPENDIX X.
Fragments of a Meteorological Register 617
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS IN THE THIRD VOLUME.
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MAPS.
Page
IX. Journey to Kánem 23
X. Expedition to Músgu 118
XI. Kúkawa to Más-eñá 260
PLATES.
1. Músgu Chief _Frontispiece_
2. Yó and the Komádugu _to face_ 35
3. Herd of Elephants near the Tsád „ 48
4. Bír El Ftáim „ 82
5. Hénderi Síggesí „ 96
6. Kánembú Chief „ 116
7. Landscape of the Músgu Country „ 190
8. Encampment in Forest „ 196
9. Shallow Water (Ngáljam) at Démmo „ 202
10. Landscape in Wúliya „ 232
11. Bárëa and the Deléb Palm „ 236
12. Interior of Dwelling „ 250
13. Encampment at Wáza „ 256
14. Logón Bírni „ 310
15. The Shárí at Mélé „ 319
16. Más-eñá, Return of the Sultan from the Expedition „ 405
WOODCUTS.
Granary 176
Harpoon 237
Ornamented Granary 249
Ground-plan of Building 250
Ground-plan of Palace in Logón Bírni 292
Ground-plan of Town of Más-eñá _to face_ 388
ERRATA, VOL III.
Page 203., line 6. read “south-_west_” instead of “south-east.”
„ 240., „ 5. from below, “_southerly_” instead of “westerly.”
„ 298., „ 16. “wórzi” _or_ “berdí” instead of “wórzi berdí.”
TRAVELS AND DISCOVERIES IN AFRICA.
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## CHAPTER XXXVIII.
RAINY SEASON IN KÚKAWA.
I had left Kúkawa on my journey to Ádamáwa in the best state of health, but had brought back from that excursion the germs of disease; and residence in the town, at least at this period of the year, was not likely to improve my condition. It would certainly have been better for me, had I been able to retire to some more healthy spot; but trivial though urgent business obliged me to remain in Kúkawa.
It was necessary to sell the merchandize which had at length arrived, in order to keep the mission in some way or other afloat, by paying the most urgent debts and providing the necessary means for further exploration. There was merchandize to the value of one hundred pounds sterling; but, as I was obliged to sell the things at a reduced rate for ready money, the loss was considerable; for all business in these countries is transacted on two or three months’ credit, and, after all, payment is made, not in ready money, but chiefly in slaves. It is no doubt very necessary for a traveller to be provided with those various articles which form the presents to be made to the chiefs, and which are in many districts required for bartering; but he ought not to depend upon their sale for the supply of his wants. Altogether it is difficult to carry on trade in conjunction with extensive geographical research, although a person sitting quietly down in a place, and entering into close relations with the natives, might collect a great deal of interesting information, which would probably escape the notice of the roving traveller, whose purpose is rather to explore distant regions. Besides, I was obliged to make numerous presents to my friends, in order to keep them in good humour, and had very often not only to provide dresses for themselves and their wives, but even for their domestic retainers; so that, all things considered, the supply of one hundred pounds’ worth of merchandize could not last very long.
I have remarked that, when I re-entered Kúkawa, the cultivation of the ground had not yet begun; indeed, the whole country was so parched, that it became even a matter of perplexity to find sufficient fodder for the horses; for the whole stock of dry herbage was consumed, and of young herbage none was to be had.
It is stated in my memoranda, that on the 5th of August I paid twelve rotl for a “kéla kajímbe,” or large bundle of dry grass; an enormous price in this country, and sufficient to maintain a whole family for several days; but that was the most unfavourable moment, for in a few days fresh herbage sprang up and made good all deficiencies. While speaking on this subject, I may also mention, that the herbage of Kúkawa, being full of “ngíbbi,” or _Pennisetum distichum_, horses brought from other countries generally fare but badly on it, as they are reluctant to fill their mouths with its small prickles.
Rain was very plentiful this year, 1851, and I am sure would, if measured, have far exceeded the quantity found by Mr. Vogel in 1854. Indeed, there were twelve very considerable falls of rain during the month of August alone, which together probably exceeded thirty inches. It must be borne in mind, moreover, that the fall of rain in Kúkawa does not constitute the rule for the region, but is quite exceptional, owing to the entire absence of trees and of heights in the neighbourhood. Hence, the statement of Mr. Vogel in one of his letters[1], that the line of tropical rains only begins south of Kúkawa, must be understood with some reserve; for if he had measured the rain in the woody country north of that capital, between Dáwerghú and Kalíluwá, he would, in my opinion, have obtained a very different result. It is evident that all depends upon the meaning of the expression, tropical rain. If it imply a very copious fall of rain, Kúkawa certainly does not lie within the limit of tropical rain; but if we are to understand by it the regularly returning annual fall of rain, produced by the ascending currents of heated air, it certainly does.[2] There was a very heavy fall of rain on the night of the 3rd of August, which not only swamped our courtyard, but changed my room, which lay half a foot lower, and was protected only by a low threshold, into a little lake, aggravating my feverish state very considerably, and spoiling most of my things.
On the 5th of August rain fell for the first time unaccompanied by a storm, though the rainy season in general sets in with dreadful tornadoes. The watery element disturbed the luxurious existence of the “kanám galgálma,” the large termites, which had fed on our sugar and other supplies, and on the 6th they all of a sudden disappeared from the ground, and filled the air as short-lived winged creatures, in which state they are called by the people “tsútsu,” or “dsúdsu,” and, when fried, are used as food. Their tenure of life is so precarious, and they seem to be so weak, that they become very troublesome, as they fall in every direction upon man and his food. Of each swarm of these insects only one couple seems destined to survive; all the rest die a violent death.
The town now began to present quite a different appearance; but while it was agreeable to see the dryness relieved, and succulent grass and fresh crops springing up all around, and supplanting the dull uniformity of the _Asclepias gigantea_, on the other hand, the extensive waterpools formed everywhere in the concavities of the ground, were by no means conducive to health, more especially as those places were depositories of all sorts of offal, and of putrefying carcasses of many kinds. The consequence was that my health, instead of improving, became worse, although I struggled hard, and as often as possible rode out on horseback. All the people were now busy in the labours of the field, although cultivation in the neighbourhood of the town is not of a uniform, but of a varied character; and a large portion of the ground, consisting of “ánge” and “fírki,” is reserved for the culture of the masákuwá (_Holcus cernuus_), or winter-corn, with its variety the kérirám.
On the 8th of August the neighbourhood presented a very animated spectacle, the crownlands in Gawánge being then cultivated by a great number of people, working to the sound of a drum. Their labours continued till the 15th; on which day Mr. Overweg had the honour of presenting his Búdduma friends to the sheikh of Bórnu. All nature was now cheerful; the trees were putting forth fresh leaves, and the young birds began to fledge. I took great delight in observing the little household of a family of the feathered tribe; there were five young ones, the oldest and most daring of which began to try his strength on the 12th of August, while the other four set out together on the 14th.
Marriages are not frequent about this time, on account of the dearness of corn; but matches are generally made after the harvest has been got in, and while corn is cheap. I shall speak in another place of the marriage ceremonies of this country.
On the 5th of September we obtained the first specimen of new “argúm móro,” white Negro millet, which is very pleasant to the taste when roasted on the fire; but this is regarded as a rarity, and new corn is not brought into the market in any great quantities before the end of November, or rather the beginning of December, when all the corn, which has been for a long time lying in the fields in conical heaps, called “búgga,” is threshed out.
My friend, the vizier, whose solicitude for my health I cannot acknowledge too warmly, was very anxious that I should not stay in the town during the rainy season; and knowing that one of our principal objects was to investigate the eastern shore of lake Tsád, sent me word, on the 11th of August, that I might now view the bahár el ghazál, an undertaking which, as I have already mentioned, he had at first represented as impossible. The news from Kánem, however, was now favourable; but as I shall speak in another place of the political state of this distracted country, and of the continual struggle between Bórnu and Wadáÿ, I need only mention here that the Welád Slimán, who had become a mercenary band attached to the vizier, had been successful during their last expedition, and were reported on the very day of my return from Ádamáwa to have made a prize of 150 horses and a great many camels, which, however, was a great exaggeration.
We were well acquainted with the character of these people, who are certainly the most lawless robbers in the world; but as it was the express wish of the British government that we should endeavour to explore the regions bordering on the lake, there was no course open to us, but to unite our pursuits with theirs; besides, they were prepared in some measure for such a union, for, while they inhabited the grassy lands round the great Syrtis, they had come into frequent contact with the English. We had no choice, for all the districts to the north-east and east of the Tsád were at present in a certain degree dependent on Wadáÿ, then at war with Bórnu, and we were told at the commencement that we might go anywhere except to Wadáÿ. Instead of fighting it out with his own people, which certainly would have been the most honourable course, the vizier had ventured to make use of the remnant of the warlike, and at present homeless, tribe of the Welád Slimán, in the attempt to recover the eastern districts of Kánem from his eastern rival; or at least to prevent the latter from obtaining a sure footing in them; for this object he had made a sort of treaty with these Arabs, undertaking to supply them with horses, muskets, powder and shot. Thus, in order to visit those inhospitable regions, which had attracted a great deal of attention in Europe, we were obliged to embrace this opportunity. Under these circumstances, on the 16th of August, I sent the vizier word that I was ready to join the Welád Slimán in Búrgu; whereupon he expressed a wish that Mr. Overweg might likewise accompany us; the stay in Kúkawa during the rainy season being very unhealthy.
Mr. Overweg had returned on the 9th to Maduwári from his interesting voyage on the Tsád, of which everyone will deeply regret that he himself was not able to give a full account.[3] Traversing that shallow basin in the English boat, which we had carried all the way through the unbounded sandy wastes and the rocky wildernesses of the desert, he had visited a great part of the islands, which are dispersed over its surface, and which, sometimes reduced to narrow sandy downs, at others expanding to wide grassy lowlands, sustain a population in their peculiar national independence, the remnant of a great nation which was exterminated by the Kanúri. It was a little world of its own with which he had thus come into contact, and into which we might hope to obtain by degrees a better insight. He enjoyed excellent health, far better than when I saw him before, on his first rejoining me in Kúkawa; and as he was well aware of the strong reasons which our friend the vizier had for wishing us not to stay in the swampy lowlands round the capital during the latter part of the rainy season, he agreed to join me on this adventurous expedition to the north-east.