Part 40

7th. Káure, a place north of the Betéhá, where you stop for the night, on account of the good edibles, the Káure people being, next to the Kashémeré, the most excellent cooks in Wáday, while next to them in this respect rank the Ábú Godám and the Marfa. Crossing in the morning the Betéhá, leaving Nyángalá, a place of the Jellába north of the Betéhá, on your right hand, and bending a little north from west, you pass Híjjerát, a place of the people of the shiúkh (eunuchs) of the hábbabát (concubines of the sultan), at some distance from the Betéhá, and stay during the heat in Hijjér, not very far from the Betéhá, formerly a place of Fátima, the sheríf’s favourite daughter, who died at Tórbigen; at present the village is transferred to a daughter of Shékoma. From this place, Káure is a little south from west.

The Betéhá bends from Káure S.W. to Malám, so called on account of this watercourse joining here the Bat-há (“the confluence”), a place inhabited by a clan of the Táma, ten or twelve hours south a little west from Káure.

8th. Bórorít, a large place, “Menzel Sultán,” inhabited by Kashémeré, Wádáy, Arabs, and Welád Hushta (domestics of the former sultans), consisting of about twenty hamlets, the largest of which is called Bórorít Hajar. Pass in the morning several small hamlets, in one of which you stop during the heat of the day.

(_c._) _From Wára to Dumta, the first Place in Dár Fúr, according to Háj Sadík._ [About 10 miles per diem.]

1st day. Gáttakarák, a place of the Wádáy.

2nd. Gáttakarák, a place of the Kélingen.

3rd. Wáweledá, a place of the Wádáy.

4th. Kélmedí, a large place of the Sungóri with a considerable market- place (“tarf e’ dár”), the last place in Wádáy. East from this place are some rocky hills which occasionally serve as hiding-places to the Táma highway robbers.

5th. Tumtubáya, a well in the khalla or wilderness.

6th. Asúnga, a wádí overgrown with deléb-palms, and with running water in the rainy season. (Wádí Asúnga, according to all appearance, is identical with W. Kíya.)

7th. Dumta, the first place in Dár-Fúr.

Dumta, according to Háj Sadík, is eight days’ journey from Kebkabíye:—

1st day. Bír Degíg, a place with a separate ertána (jargon).

2nd. Óra, } } 3rd. Ám-dúkhen, } villages. } 4th. Kulkuláya, }

5th. Kónge, with a great mosque.

6th. Wádí Báre, a densely inhabited valley, stretching S.S.E.

7th. Sultán ʿOmár, a large place on the Báre, at the foot of a rocky eminence.

8th. Kebkabíye, a large place of the Jellába, with clay houses, and a much-frequented market, held every Tuesday and Thursday. Warm springs.

From Kebkabíye to Tendélti, eight days:—

1st day. Bír Nabék, a well in the wilderness, in the Márra mountains.

2nd. Káura, a well, with some slight cultivation in the mountains.

3rd. Kúru, a place in the mountains, with mosque.

4th. Shebéna, a place of the Jellába, in the wádí.

5th. Jéllo, a place, with clay huts, of the Jellába.

6th. Mowéle, a place with clay houses and reed huts; wells deep.

7th. Maddúb, a small place.

8th. Tendélti, the capital of Dár Fúr.

(_d._) _From Sheníni to Dumta, according to Fáki Íbrahím._

1st day. Derjíli, a place of the ʿAlí, blacks, with a separate ertána or jargon. Pass in the morning Bárekálla, and stop for the heat at Míchirí, also villages of the ʿAlí.

2nd. Búrtay, a group of two villages, of the ʿAlí. Stop for the heat at Aláshi.

3rd. Harrúnek, a considerable place in the mountains, inhabited by Másalít and ʿAlí; arrive before dhohor, at about two o’clock. Pass in the morning Sáñigó, likewise a place of the ʿAlí, in the mountains, where the wádí Bat-há commences, two days E.N.E. from Ám-gontúra, a place of the Kúbu.

4th. Dulla, a place of the Másalít, in a plain.

5th. Kíya, a wádí with clayey soil and with deléb-palms and another tree called jákh-jakh; in its upper course called Asúnga. Stop during the heat at Mʿamúr, a pond of water at the base of a rocky eminence.

6th. Murlí, a place of the Másalít, but already belonging to Fúr. Pass in the morning Wádí Kája; halt there during the heat.

7th. Dumta, a small place with a few date-palms, “mukdám Hánafí” (the residence of Hánafí).

(_e._) _From Sheníni to Jurlú, according to Fáki Íbrahím._

1st day. Óguma, a village of the Ábú Shárib, passing Áblubán and Habíle.

2nd. Adékke, a place in the hills, inhabited by the Kúka, passing Glégis, Wére, Shakh-hén, all occupied by the Ábú Shárib, then Tará, a village in the mountains; Tará Gorórgorá, a place of the Táma; and Gáskunji, a place of the Kúka.

3rd. Betéhá, the valley, without an inhabited place, passing Tynjúng and Kúltumó, both inhabited by nás Wádáy, and Tammám, all situated in the plain. Tammám is occupied by the Sungóri.

4th. Jurlú, a place in the mountains, inhabited by the Sungóri, who, along with the Másalít, occupy all this tract down from the Betéhá. Jurlú is the residence of the higher classes of the Sungóri. The mountain is very considerable in comparison with the other mountainous eminences in Wádáy, but nevertheless not an entire day’s journey in breadth. According to Íbrahím, the Betéhá rises in this mountain, whilst the Bat-há rises in the Soñyó.

(_f._) _The Principal Villages along the Betéhá from Birén upwards. According to Fáki Íbrahím._

West of Birén lies Aúshena, or Óshena, on the opposite or northern side of the wádí Múrshudú; then east, further up, Ofúla, a place of the Dájó, then Jemér Hejilíje, a place of the Kajánga and Koróriyang, likewise belonging to the Kajánga and the Fírti, all on the south side of the wádí, while on the north lies Gosmínni, further on Ámmárga, then Shokán—consisting of six or seven villages, viz., Sh. Kórdofán, Sh. Bátarán, Sh. Abérbi, Sh. Miñi, &c., all inhabited by the Bíli; then east of the latter Shimé, a place of the Mími and Kóromboy; then Agúrbo, a place of the Mími; Kunó, a place of the Kodoyí and Kawák; then follow the villages of the Sungóri.

All these villages are remarkable for their cultivation of onions. About Etím, west of Birén, near an eminence, corn is cultivated by slaves of the sultan.

(_g._) _From Sheníni to Nyéseré. S.E._

1st day. Ám-gontúra, a place of the Ábú Shárib on the south bank of the Bat-há, which is here joined by the wádí Iséra, which comes from Dirjéli, four days N.W. of Birén, by way of Marfa-Ógumó— Dóbbur—Dirjéli. Passing in the morning Bárekalla of the Ábú Shárib and Gumtúj, a place of the Gnórga, you stop during the heat in Dalíñe, a hamlet of the Gnórga.

2nd. Kétteké, a place of the Másalít. Passing in the morning Urúlla, situated close to Ám-gontúra towards the east, and Nebbegága, both villages of the Ábú Shárib, you enter the district of the Másalít, and pass their villages of Óla Sábbalát and Óla Dábangát.

3rd. Khalla; stop during the heat in Wádí Kíya.

4th. Nyéseré, a place of the Másalít, or, more strictly speaking, of the Ambús, a division of the Másalít, who are accused of cannibalism. This place belongs already to Fúr.

(_h._) _From Sheníni to the Móku, or iron mines. West._

The Móku are situated near Shákkayak, a place consisting of two hamlets, and inhabited by the Barúwala, one mine being close to the place, the other south of it, on two separate hills, whilst close to Shákkayak on the west there is another mine, in a hill close to the village of Lágiya, where 100 jerári, or hoes of this shape [Illustration], may be bought for one ox. The iron from these Móku, which is only broken in small stones on the surface, is manufactured by the blacksmiths in the neighbouring villages of Fáhem, south of Shákkayak, Áblubán, south of Fáhem, Múruske, south of Shákkayak, and in Gosmán.

On the short march from Sheníni to Shákkayak, you pass Mistakhéde, Rógrogó, Mánga Dírdigé and Mánga Abákrnak, these two hamlets forming part of the large place of Mánga, inhabited by Mími, Gélma, Ábú Shárib and Kanúri. The other hamlets belonging to the place are called Mánga Kordále, Mánga Mérendé, which lies north of Shákkayak, Mánga Múttong, Mánga Ábeyáng, inhabited by Ábú Shárib, and Mánga Míri, from whence it is not far to Abkar Hájilíj, the village above mentioned, by way of Serír and Magállem.

There is besides another considerable iron mine at Kájam, four hours W.S.W. of Tókhilí, in the district Jéji, the iron of which is brought by the Áblebay to Átarek between Abkar and Mánga Mérendé, where this iron, as well as the copper brought by the Jellába from the celebrated hofra in the south of Dár-Fúr, is manufactured by the “haddád Mónnu.”

(_i._) _From Sheníni to Sillá by way of Ándelá, according to Fáki Íbrahím. Direction S.S.W., then south._

1st day. Ándelá, a place inhabited by Wádáy and Bándalá. Passing in the morning Shokhúlke, a place consisting of two hamlets, and inhabited by the Ogodóngde, close to Sheníni, Tordóna, likewise of the Ogodóngde, you cross the wádí Hamra, and stop during the heat in Súnkutú, whereupon, passing Súnkutú Jídnak or Nyílik, you cross the Bat-há, which somewhat higher up, near Súnkutú Malám, receives the wádí Hamra, and finally pass Agílbe, a village comprising three hamlets inhabited by Wádáy people, and close to Ándelá, Agílbe Angneréda.

2nd. Shakák, a village of the Bándalá, in a sandy tract, with rocky hills. A good march; stop during the heat at the well of Kadáda, a place not inhabited, but containing numerous trees, particularly dúm-palms.

3rd. Chilímna, a village of the Bándalá and the Áblebay, near to which towards the west dwell the Sálamát, Míssiríye, and Jéji. Here are seen the mountains of Sillá, the inhabitants of which supply the market of Chilímna with honey, and fish, fresh and dried. Stop during the heat at noon in the wádí Bokhás, said to run south into the large wádí Diwé, which skirts the district Jéji, and by some is considered identical with the bahr Sálamát, which passes Mangára, and then, one day from Mangára, is called Gedé, or bahr el Hémád, and further down Óm e’ Tímán or bahr Sálamát. Íbrahím considers it as a tributary of the river of Runga. Besides the Hémád and Sálamát, the Shárafa also pasture on its banks.

4th. Sillá, which was not visited by Íbrahím himself, is reached after crossing in the morning the wádí Diwé, which spreads out to a great extent on clayey ground, and swarms with fish. The Sillá are handsome people, without incisions. Yúsuf Kharifáín made a ghazzia to this place.

(_k._) _Direct way to Sillá._

1st day. Dumbóli, a place of the Míssiríye, close to Rás el Fíl or Tánjaknák on the west. Passing in the morning Shokhúlke and Abjefíli, a place of the Ogodóngde, with the small wádí Ábú Ghánem (pronounced Ábú Khánem) in the south, which joins the wádí el Hamra, near Súnkutú; stop during the heat at Sórumó, on the north bank of the Bat-há, which flows close, on the east, to the Wádáy hamlet of Maráy.

2nd. Khalla, passing the large mountain of Kajéske.

3rd. Sillá, in the morning.

(_l._) _From Wára to Rúnga, according to Háj Sadík. South, afterwards west._

1st day. A place of the Kóndongó, with a large mountain stretching out to a great length.

2nd. Andísha, a place of the Wádáy.

3rd. Hawára, a place of the Wádáy in a level country.

4th. Betéhá, a wádí, occupied by Wádáy people.

5th. Áfi, a place of the Wádáy, at the base of a ridge of mountains.

6th. Kémerí, a place of the Wádáy, in a plain with mountains in the distance; south.

7th. A place of the Chaíma, slaves of the Bándalá, who prepare honey.

8th. Kódogus, one of the largest places of Wádáy, inhabited by Talba Arabs. According to Íbrahím, Kódogus is rather a place of the Ábú Shárib, Kajágasé, and Dermúdi, and is three days and a half from Sheníni. Sleep at Úrka, a place of the Wádáy and Bándalá, on the Bat-há, then at Ám-búrtunú, a village of the Wádáy and Bándalá, the latter being the more numerous, and the third night at a place the name of which he had forgotten. W.S.W.

9th. Íd el Gadém.

10th. Kájam, a village at the western foot of a mountain.

11th. Mangára (according to this informant erroneously called the chief place of Kebét or Kajágasé). From Mangára to Sillá, one day’s journey east.

12th. Gurára, encampment in the wilderness.

13th. Metérbe.

14th. Donás, the name of the ruler of the province of Runga, the successor of Sebír, who pays tribute both to Fúr and Wádáy.

According to Háj Sadík, the position of Runga with regard to Wára is like that of Mándará and Kúkawa, and its geographical relation to Tendélti as that of the Púllo place of Bógo, on the east side of Mándará, to Más-eñá.

(_m._) _From Sheníni to Runga. From the account of Fáki Íbrahím._

1st day. Ándalá.

2nd. Shakáki.

3rd. Jéji, a district comprising about twenty hamlets.

4th. Kerére, a place of the Másmajé.

5th. Khalla.

6th. Kebét, an outlying province of Wádáy, not, as my other informant thought, identical with Kajágasé, which belongs to Wádáy Proper.

7th. Khalla.

8th. Mangára, the capital of Dággel, situated on a rocky eminence (“Mangára,” in the Dággel language, signifies a rock), and close by a large pool of standing water, called by the Arabs, “Bahr e’ Tíni.”

9th. An expansive marsh, inundated to a large extent during the rains, with a clayey soil.

10th. Runga in the morning.South from Runga, according to Fáki Sámbo, lies Dár Meng.

(_n._) _From Tendélti to Runga, according to the information of Háj Sadík._

1st. day. Kórigó, a considerable market-town. A long march till ʿaser. If you travel but slowly, you stop during the heat at the pond called Ráhet Birbídi, sleep at Ám-habíle, and reach Kórigó only on the following morning. The market of Kórigó is held only on Tuesdays and Thursdays. Some of the pilgrims turn from the territory of the Sungóri by way of Jebel Herés, straight upon Kórigó.

2nd. Jurtóba, a place of the Bulála and Kúka.

3rd. Abéshr, a village of the Furáwy.

4th. Wágif, a place occupied by Bagírmi people.

5th. Ám-kordás, another village inhabited by Bagírmi people. The entire tract consists of sandy soil.

6th. Selálo, a large place inhabited by Bórnu people.

7th. Ám-majúra, a considerable place, important on account of its traffic with the Kirdi country, here called Firtít, and the residence of the governor of Birket, inhabited by Másalít, Dájó, Bagírmi, and Furáwy.

_From Tendélti to Ám-majúra, according to Háj Mohammed._

1st day. Difán Haggeróna, a place of the Dájó, beyond Kórigó, which you pass. A long march.

2nd. Ám-harrás, a place only recently built by a man from Bú Harrás in Kordofán, and inhabited by Fúr and Bagírmi people.

3rd. Ám-kardús, a place belonging to Shetéta, and inhabited by Fúr. Identical with Ám-kordés.

4th. Hillet el Makdúm Khalíl.

5th. Ám-majúra, two days and a half from Tebeldíye, three days from the hofra, and about three days from Bahr el Erzegát. Ám-majúra is very rich in deléb-palms, and has an important Sunday market supplied with butter by the Erzegát. The inhabitants of the place are said to trade

## particularly in slaves, which they buy with wodʿa and tobacco.

8th. Gíja, a place inhabited by Fúr and Gullá, governed (at that time) by Mohammed Setéba. Direction from hence a little south from west.

9th. Májam, a place of the Taʿasha Arabs, but inhabited besides by some Másalít.

10th. Ráhet Kháli in the Khalla, without an inhabited place.

11th. Báli.

12th. Dúm Asehéba.

13th. Dúm ʿArdéba.

14th. Khalla.

15th. Débe, a village of the Runga; pagans, besides a few ʿUrbán or Arabs.

16th. Tarkámu, a district occupied by Bórnu people.

17th. The place of residence of Donás the Prince of Runga, after whom it is generally called; the original name is not known to me.

(_o._) _List of the more considerable places in Fittrí, and the divisions of the Bulála, according to the Buláli Íbrahím._

In the district called Defn Meláda: Témsa (identical with Dumsa), Késhegá, Tíggedí, where a fugitive son of the last sultan of Bórnu resides, Góla, Dúbunór, Géla, Kábberá, Móyo, Dógo, Gálo. In the district El Góza: Mélme, Kúdu, Amána, Gúgu, Sége, Ágené, Bayálla, Bógo, Shegé, Búrrigó, Befárkamá, Dénni, Góllo, Yʿawó, Gámsa, Wágalá, Séta. Kabáíl or families of the Bulála: Lóffewá the Sóltana or ruling family, Gíjo, Battáwa, Argumuwá, Chélmuwá, Wádewá, Kásewá, Jilluwá, and many others, at least twenty; according to tradition, ninety-nine. The ancestor of the Bulála is Jíli (Jíl Shikomémi), who came from Kánem.

(_p._) _Some account of Fittrí and Bat-há, according to ʿOthmán, who had been carried off as captive from Bagírmi by Sabún, with additions by Háj Sadík._

The lake (Fittrí means nothing but valley, basin of water, and coincides in sense with Tsád) is two days’ journey in circumference, contains fresh water, is very shallow, has a clayey bottom, and is surrounded on all sides by a rich marsh almost destitute of trees, whilst the valley of the Bat-há is densely and beautifully wooded—at least it was so till lately. No wádí joins the lake except the Bat-há; and none issues from it. In the centre of the shallow lake lies an island called Módo, the pagan, or at least half pagan inhabitants of which belong to a tribe generally called Ábú Simmin, long since reduced to subjection by the Kúka, and navigate the lake in small canoes, made from trunks hollowed out, and holding two or three persons. Among the fish found in the lake are the angóla, which strikes the water, and the bolbút; but there is no sémmak. The principal places lying about the lake are (beginning from Yʿawó) Debunóro, Tamsa or Temsa, Géla, Gólo, Dágo, Gámsa, which is about twelve miles from Yʿawó (but these places are at a considerable distance from the shores of the lake, though varying, of course, greatly according to the season). Five tribes pasture in the Fittrí—the Bení Málekí, who possess numerous camels, the Jʿaátena, the Hamíde, and a part of the Kréda; and it is visited even by other Tebu tribes during the summer. In the kharíf, or rainy season, when the Arab tribes are removing, and the whole country is inundated and infested by swarms of mosquitoes, the camels of the Fittrí are, like those of the sultan, stall-fed in sheds, or at least are sheltered with mats.

The principal places along the lower course of the Bat-há are: Séta, Dífde, Henéwu Júrundú, Ám-kharúba, Durmámi, Sigó, Mugdára; Birket Fátima, a place of the Másmajé on the west side of the ráhet and north of the wádí; Ám-siddre, Al Áfanín, then the district called Dár-Zoyúd.

From Míddogó, which is one day from Yʿawó, to Birket Fátima, is four days by way of Áb Zeráfa, a place of the Kúka, with small rocky ridges; Hejél, a place of the Kúka, and finally Bóyo.

(_q._) _From Fittrí to Mʿawó, N.W., according to the Buláli Íbrahím._

1st day. Fáli or Fári (Fághi?), a hamlet inhabited by Bagírmi people, in a wádí-like hollow encompassed by rocks.

2nd. Aúni, a hamlet of Bagírmi people, with some rocky ridges.

3rd. Búkko, another hamlet of the Bagírmáye.

4th. Shégeráye, a wádí where the Gurʿaán pasture their camels.

5th. Bahr el ghazál, an expansive and richly-timbered wádí.

6th. Kedáda, a place of the Týnjur. Kedáda is one day from ʿAlímarí, where the waters of the eastern extremity of the Tsád are said to have been formerly discharged into the Bahr el ghazál, the communication with which is now interrupted by sandy downs.

7th. Mondó, another place of the Týnjur, under the chief Abákr.

8th. Yagúbberí, a hamlet of the Týnjur.

9th. Mʿawó, the residence of the khalífa of Wádáy, and the general head- quarters of Jérma Móngo. The inhabitants of Mʿawó are called Beránemá in the Gurʿaán language.

(_r._) _From Fittrí to Mʿawó, according to a Wádáwy._

1st day. Khabíni, a Gurʿaán settlement, with abundance of water.

2nd. El Khazálát, a wádi, said to be a tributary of the Bahr el ghazál, occupied by Dághana.

3rd. Shegeráye, a wádí, occupied by the Gurʿaán.

4th. Délebát, a wádí.

5th. El Grét, a wádí.

6th. Mʿawó.

My informant declares that he left the wádí Fári on his right, and never passed the Bahr el ghazál at all.

Another informant went from Mʿawó to Fittrí by way of Kálkalá, Gújer, the well of Toróro in the Bahr el ghazál, the wádí Shegeráye with abundance of water, and the rocks of Hajjiját in the wádí Fári.

(_s._) _Wára to Wádí ʿOrádha, according to Fáki Íbrahím and ʿAlí Malánga._

1st day. Bóbok, a place of the Kajígají, a Wádáy tribe. Leaving Wára by the N.W. gate on the road called Lingak Bátemelek from the village of Báteme, which is passed soon after starting, further on you pass the village of Índing, and afterwards Korummúdi, a village inhabited by Fezzáni people.

2nd. Tátsere, a place inhabited by Wádáy. Stop during the heat at Tákhsha.

3rd. ʿOrádha, a wádí or zaraf, very rich in pasture-grounds, where the Máhamíd pasture in the summer, whilst in the kharíf they proceed to Túrru and Súbbu. East of the wádí ʿOrádha is the wádí Subb, two days from the mountainous country of the Táma. The road from Fezzán by the Búrgu country to Wára touches at ʿOrádha.

ʿAlí made the following _détour_ in going to the wádí ʿOrádha, which is much resorted to by the Wádáy Fákí, as, by their reading and writing, they may easily earn from the wealthy Arabs of that locality a cow or a good number of sheep:—

1st day. Bóbok.

2nd. Kursó, a considerable place of the Mími.

3rd. Tátsere. All this country has a sandy soil.

4th. Armán, a place of the fokará of the Máhamíd, inhabited by their chiefs Mahmúd ʿAbd e’ Salám Weled Chócho and Hagar Weled Bélle.

5th. Rehédo, another place of the Máhamíd.

6th. Subb, a zaraf running west, whither the Máhamíd likewise resort.

7th. ʿOrádha.

3. ROUTES IN THE INTERIOR OF BAGÍRMI.

(_a._) _Large and small Places on the Shári, from Búgomán upwards._

Márja, a small place; Mískin, a considerable walled town; Mébi, a small place at the confluence of the Báchikám with the Shárí; Mainpa, or Mankhfa; Anja; Mólan; Gélendé; Mákelíl; Óngo, or Óñoko; Búnjul; Baleñére, a walled place; Mondó, with a rampart; Moró; Madélamá; Baingané; Laffiyáta; Gedó; Músgu; Bowáy; Miyán; Mógoló; Kába; Jílim; Mábbelé, a town surrounded by a strong wall; Láffaná, with a rampart in ruins; Busó, a large place; Móngalá; Bá-Ngórgolong; Bíri; Korómafé; Tábe; Májim; Bubúr; Dére; Gófna; Chíromadí; Miltú.

(_b._) _From Más-eñá to Láffaná and Busó._

1st day. Mogál, beyond the ford of Báchikám, on the upper part of the river of the same name, which at Tápe, a village near Miltú, branches off from the upper Shárí, and rejoins it at Mébi, a small village near Mískin.

2nd. Mangagúllafé.

3rd. Gáram, a place inhabited by Kanúri.

4th. Sleep in the wilderness.

5th. Bedá-kúrchi, a Bagírmi place under Busó.

6th. Dendám, a Bagírmi place.

7th. Láffaná.Bedá-kúrchi is nearer to Mábbelé and Láffaná than to Busó.

(Busó, according to Agíd Músa, is about as far from Más-eñá as Logón bírni or Moító, Busó being reached in three long marches: viz.

1st day. Gáwin Háji.

2nd. Bedá-kúrchi.

3rd. Busó.)

(_c._) _From Más-eñá to Busó, according to Háj Sádík._