Part 11

When he reported his Discoveries, the King of _Spain_ sent him back with a Fleet and 600 Men to take possession of this River in 1544, some say 1549, but the Project came to nothing: for the Captain himself, after he had sail’d up 100 Ls. died with 57 of his Men by the Unhealthiness of the Air; and some of them sail’d 60 Ls. higher, where they were friendly entertain’d by the Natives, but being too few to pursue the Discovery, they return’d to the Island _Margarita_, where they found _Orellana’s_ Lady, says _Heerera_, who told them that her Husband died of Grief for the Loss of so many of his Men by Sickness and the Attacks of the _Indians_. And thus they return’d _re infecta_: so that _Orellana_ receiv’d no other Advantage for his Danger and Expence, but the Honour of the first Discovery, and having the River call’d by his name in some Authors. _Ovalle_ says that he lost half his Men at the _Canaries_ and Cape _Verd_, and his Fleet was reduc’d to two large Boats before he came back to the River; so that he was too weak to attempt a further Discovery.

The Manuscripts taken by Capt. _Withrington_ say the second Person who attempted it was _Leus de Melo_ a _Portuguese_, by order of his Sovereign King _John_ III. to whom the Country from the mouth of this River to that of _La Plata_ belong’d, according to the Partition agreed on betwixt the _Portuguese_ and the _Spaniards_. He had ten Ships and 800 Men, but lost eight of his Ships at the mouth of the River; so that he went to the Island _Margarita_, from whence his Men were dispers’d all over the _Indies_. Two or three Captains from the Kingdom of _New Granada_ attempted it afterwards by Land, but without Success.

In 1560. those of _Peru_ try’d it another way. The Viceroy sent _Pesdro de Orsua_, a Native of _Navarre_, with 700 Men to the Head of this River, where he built Pinnaces and Canoes; and having furnish’d himself with Provisions, and taken 2000 _Indians_ with many Horses on board, he imbark’d on the

[Sidenote: _Account of the River Amazons._]

River _Xauxa_ or _Maranhon_. He sail’d till he came to a plain Country, where he began to build a Town: but his Men not being us’d to such Labour, and fatigu’d by the hot and rainy Seasons, they murmur’d, tho they had Provisions enough, and a great prospect of finding Store of Gold. The Mutineers were headed by _Lopez de Agira_ a _Biscayner_, who had been an old Mutineer in _Peru_; and being join’d by _Ferdinand de Guzman_ a _Spanish_ Soldier, and one _Saldueno_ who was enamour’d on _Orsua’s_ beautiful Lady, they murder’d him when asleep, with all his Friends and chief Officers. Then they proclaim’d _Guzman_ their King, but 20 days after he was also murder’d by _Lopez_, who assum’d the Title to himself. Being a Fellow of mean Birth, he murder’d all the Gentlemen in company, lest any of them should rival him; and having form’d a Guard of Ruffians about him, he became so jealous of his new Dignity, and was so conscious of what he deserv’d, that when any of the Men talk’d together, he concluded they were plotting against him, and sent his Ruffians to murder them. Abundance of the rest and the Women falling sick, he barbarously left them to the mercy of the Natives, and sail’d to the Island _Margarita_ with 230 Men. He was “well entertain’d by the Governour, who took him to be one of the King’s Officers; but this ungrateful Villain did speedily murder him and his Friends, ravag’d the Island, forc’d some Soldiers to go along with him, and pretended to conquer the _Indies_; but was defeated, taken and hang’d by the Governour of _New Granada_. The Wretch murder’d his own Daughter that she might not be insulted by his Enemies, and then attempted to murder himself, but was prevented. Thus concluded that fatal Expedition.

The _Sansons_ say the next Attempt was by those of _Cusco_ in 1566. but it came to nothing; for their Leaders fell out and fought with one another, which made the rest a Prey to the Natives: or that only _Maldonado_ one of their Captains and two Priests escap’d to carry home the News.

Two of the Generals of _Para_ and Governours of _Maranhon_ were the next that renew’d the Attempt by the King’s Command, but met with so many cross Accidents that they could not effect it.

In 1606. two Jesuits set out from _Quito_, thinking to reduce the Country on this River by their Preaching: but one of them was kill’d by the Natives, and the other narrowly escap’d, says _Ovalle_.

The next Discovery was by Capt. _John de Palacios_. Authors differ as to the time; but most agree ’twas in 1635. He set out from _Quito_ with a few arm’d Men and _Franciscan_ Fryars, sail’d down the River till he came to _Annete_, where he was kill’d in 1636. and most of his Companions return’d, except two Monks and five or six Soldiers, who sail’d down in a little Vessel as far as _Para_ the Capital of _Brazile_; where they acquainted _Texeira_ the _Portuguese_ Governour with their Discovery: who upon their Information sent 47 Canoes with 70 _Spaniards_ and 1200 _Indians_ to sail up the River under _Texeira_ the Sailor. He set out in _October_ 1637. and met with several Difficulties, which occasion’d many of the _Indians_ to forsake him; but he went on, and sent a Captain with eight Canoes to make Discoveries before him. This Captain arriv’d _June_ 24. 1638. at a _Spanish_ Town built at the Conflux of the Rivers _Huerari_ and _Amazons_, and dispatch’d a Canoe to acquaint _Texeira_ with it. This encourag’d him to proceed till he came to the Mouth of the River _Chevelus_, where it falls into the _Amazons_, and there he left part of his Men under a Captain, and the rest at _Junta de los Rios_ under another; while himself with a few went forward to _Quito_. The other Captain arriv’d there some time before, and both were well receiv’d by the _Spaniards_, to whom they reported their Discovery in _September_ 1638. The Men he left behind were well entertain’d by the Natives at first, but quarrelling with them afterwards, suffer’d much for want of Provisions, and had little but what they took by force.

Upon the News of this Discovery, the Count _de Chinchon_ Viceroy of _Peru_ sent Orders from _Lima_ to furnish _Texeira_ with all Necessaries for his Return down the River, and appointed Father _d’Acugna_, Rector of the College of _Cuenca_, and another Jesuit, to attend him and carry the News to _Spain_. They set out in _February_ 1639. and arriv’d at _Para_ in _December_ following; from whence _d’Acugna_ went to _Spain_, and publish’d his Account of this River in 1640.

[Sidenote: _Account of the River Amazons._]

The Sum of his Discovery, besides what has been mention’d already, is as follows. There’s a Tree on the Banks of this River call’d _Andirova_, from whence they draw an Oil that is a Specifick for curing Wounds. There’s plenty of Iron-Wood, so nam’d because of its Hardness, Red-Wood, Log-Wood, _Brazile_, and Cedars so large, that _Acugna_ says he measur’d some that were 30 span round the Trunk. They have Timber enough to build Ships, make Cordage of the Barks of Trees, and Sails of Cotton, but want Iron. They make Hatchets of Tortoise-shells, or hard Stones ground to an Edg; and Chizzels, Planes, and Wimbles of the Teeth and Horns of wild Beasts. Their chief Directors are Sorcerers, who are the Managers of their hellish Worship, and teach them how to revenge themselves on their Enemies by Poison and other barbarous methods. Some of them keep the Bones of their deceas’d Relations in their Houses; and others burn them with all their Movables, and solemnize their Funerals first by mourning, and then by excessive drinking. Yet the Father says they are in general good-natur’d and courteous, and many times left their own Hutts to accommodate him and his Company. Some of these Nations, particularly the _Omaguas_, whose Country is 260 Leagues long, and the most populous on the River, are decently clad in Rayment of Cotton, and trade in it with their Neighbours. Some of the other Nations wear Plates of Gold at their Ears and Nostrils; and their Joiners are so expert, that they make Chairs and other Houshold Furniture in the shapes of several Animals with great Art.

The Jesuits of _Quito_ in _Peru_ have engrav’d a Map of this River, in which they give the following Account, _viz._ That ’tis the greatest in the known World: That tho it be call’d by the name of _Amazons_ or _Orellana_, its true name is _Maranhon_: That it rises from the Lake _Lauricocha_, as we have mention’d already, runs 1800 Leagues, and falls into the North Sea by 84 Mouths: That near the City _Borja_ it is pent up by a Strait call’d _El-Pongo_, not above 13 Fathom wide and 3 Ls. long; where the Stream is so rapid, that Boats run it in a quarter of an hour. The Truth of this must be submitted to the Judgment of the Reader, but it seems very improbable, since none of those who sail’d up and down this River describe it thus: besides, ’twere impossible to sail up against so rapid a Stream without a Tide, which the _Sansons_ say comes up to this Strait; but they make it a mile broad, and by consequence not so rapid. The Jesuits add, that both Banks from the City _Jaen_ in the Province of _Bracamoros_, where it begins to be navigable, down to the Sea, are cover’d with Woods of very tall Trees, among which there’s Timber of all colours, abundance of _Sarsaparilla_, and the Bark they call Cloves, which is us’d by Dyers and Cooks. In the neighbouring Woods there are many Tygers, wild Boars, and Buffaloes, _&c._ The Jesuits began their Mission upon this River in 1638. have their Capital at the City of _St. Francis_ of _Borja_ in the Province of _Manos_, 300 Leagues from _Quito_; and their Mission extends along three other Rivers as far as the Province of the _Omaguas_, whither they make sometimes long and dangerous Voyages in Canoes. They give an account of eight of their number that have been murder’d by the _Barbarians_, the last of them in 1707. Besides _Borja_ and its Dependencies, they have 39 Towns founded mostly by their own Labour and Charge, but we shan’t insist on their Names. Their Converts they reckon at 26000, and the Missionaries about 18. They add, that they have contracted Amity with several numerous Nations, whose Conversion they hope for.

The _Portuguese_ have some Towns at the Mouth of this River, and a Fort on _Rio Negro_; so that of late years they have traded much upon it, and, as several _Spaniards_ inform’d me, during the last Peace they extended their Commerce as far as _Quito_ and many other Places in _Peru_. I have insisted the longer on this River, because it is of so great Fame, and may be of mighty Advantage for Trade.

* * * * *

The River of _La Plata_ being the South Boundary of _Brazile_, within the Limits of the _South-Sea_ Company, and lying conveniently for opening a great Trade from the North-Sea with _Peru_, _Chili_, and other vast Countries; I shall give a Description of it here, from the best Authors.

The first _European_ who discover’d it, seems to have been _Juan Dias de Solis_, who sailing from _Spain_ in 1512. some say 1515. run along the Coast of _Brazile_ till he came to this River, says _Ovalle_. With him agree the Manuscripts taken on some _Spanish_ Priests in this River by Capt. _Withrington_, publish’d in _Harris’s_ Collections[108]; where we are told, _De Solis_ obtain’d the Government of this River, but was murder’d by the Natives with most of his Men in 1515. The next who came hither was _Sebastian Cabot_ in 1526. but his Men being mutinous, he had not the desir’d Success, tho he sail’d 150, some say 200 Leagues up this River; and purchasing many Pieces of Gold and Silver Plate from the Natives, who call’d this River _Parama_, he call’d it the River of Plate, because he thought it to be the Product of the Country, which was afterwards found to be a Mistake. Yet upon his Report, in 1530. when he return’d, the Emperor _Charles_ V. sent Don _Peter Mendoza_, one of his chief Grandees, with 2200 Men besides Mariners, to plant a Colony here in

[Sidenote: _Account of the River La Plata._]

1535. and they had so great hopes of finding Mines of Gold and Silver, that above thirty Heirs of noble Families went on the Expedition; and sailing 50 Leagues up the River, where the Air was good, he founded a Town, which from thence was call’d _Buenos-Ayres_. They built a Fort, and enlarg’d the Town; but as they were carrying on their Work, the Natives attack’d them, and overpowering them with Numbers, kill’d 250, among whom were several of the chief Men. This oblig’d the _Spaniards_ to keep within their Fort, where they suffer’d much by Famine. _Mendoza_ return’d towards _Spain_, but died miserably, with many of his Companions, for want of Provisions by the way. His Deputy-Governour _Oyola_ sail’d up into _Paraguay_, in quest of a Country said to abound with Gold and Silver; but was treacherously slain by the Natives, with all his Followers.

_Irala_ who was his Deputy, and left at _Buenos-Ayres_, contracted a Friendship with some of the Natives call’d _Guaranians_. In 1538. he built _Assumption_ in their Country, which is now the Metropolis of _Paraguay_, and left _Buenos-Ayres_ for a time. _Assumption_ lies on the Banks of the River _Paraguay_, in S. Lat. 25. 240 Leagues from the Sea, and 40 from the Mouth of the River _Paraguay_, where it falls into _La Plata_, These Rivers after they join continue their natural Colour for several miles, _La Plata_ being clear, and _Paraguay_ muddy. The latter is by much the most considerable River, and the adjacent Country abounds with Mines of Gold and Silver, and is navigable above 200 Leagues. The River _Uruquay_ falls into _Paraguay_ on the right side, and runs a Course of 300 Leagues, according to _Sepp_ the Jesuit, who in his Voyage says ’tis as big as the _Danube_ at _Vienna_. In short, as to this River _La Plata_, Authors are not agreed. Some of the Jesuits who are Missionaries in those Countries think it to be the same with that call’d _Paraguay_ higher up in the Country, and that it has a Communication with the North-East Coast of _Brazile_ by the River _St. Meary_, which rises out of the same Lake, and runs N E. as _Paraguay_ or _Plata_ runs S. and afterwards to the S E. when it falls into the Sea. Be that how it will, here are many Rivers which fall into the same Channel on both sides. But that which is commonly call’d _La Plata_, begins near the Town of that Name about S. Lat. 19. and after running N. a little way, takes its Course S E. till it join the River _Paraguay_. So that I chuse rather to trust to the Account given us by Mr. _White_ our Linguist, who having dwelt long in that Country, told me this River derives its Name from the Town of _La Plata_, a sort of Metropolis to which there lies an Appeal from other Jurisdictions. He adds, that ’tis a pretty Town, has fourteen Churches with a Cathedral, and four Nunneries, and lies North-west from _Buenos-Ayres_ about 500 Leagues, which requires commonly two months and a half’s Travel.

All are agreed that _La Plata_ is very large at the Mouth, where some account it 50, and others 30 Leagues broad. The Mouth of it is dangerous because of Sands, and therefore requires Pilots. _Knivet_,[109] in his Description of the _West-Indies_, says, the best way to avoid those Sands is to keep near the North Shore till you come to a high Mountain white at top; and then to sail 4 Ls. South, to another small Hill on the North side, near which you must sail. This brings you into a fair Bay, where you must still keep along shore: and after passing the West Point of this Bay, you come to the River _Maroer_, and then there are no more Shoals between that and _Buenos-Ayres_.

_La Plata_ runs into the Sea about S. Lat. 35. and sometimes overflows the Country for several miles, when the Natives put their Goods into Canoes, and float about till the Inundation assuages, and then they return to their Habitations. _Ovalle_ gives the following Account of this River, _viz._ That it runs with such a mighty Stream into the Sea, as makes it fresh for a great way: That the Water of this River is very sweet, clears the Voice and Lungs, and is good against all Rheums and Defluxions: That the People who dwell about it have excellent Voices, and are all inclin’d to Musick: That it petrifies the Branches of Trees, and other things which fall into it; and that Vessels are naturally form’d of its Sand, which are of various Figures, look as if they were polish’d by Art, and keep Water very cool. It breeds great store of excellent Fish of divers sorts, and most beautiful Birds of all kinds are seen on its Banks. _Sepp_ informs us, that this River and _Uraguay_ abound so with Fish, that the Natives catch great numbers of them without any other Instrument than their Hands: one of the choicest, call’d the Kings-Fish, is small without Bones, and taken only in Winter. Our Author, says he never saw any _European_ Fish in this latter, except one that the _Spaniards_ call _Bocado_; and that the Fish are larger here than ours, of a dark or yellow colour, and well tasted; which he ascribes to the nature of

[Illustration: THE ISLANDS OF JUAN FERNANDEZ, WHERE ALEXANDER SELKIRK WAS FOUND]

[Sidenote: _Account of the River La Plata._]

the Water, that tho drunk in great quantities even after raw Fruit, helps Digestion, and never does any hurt. The Plains about this River are so large and even, without any Obstruction to the Sight, that the Sun seems to rise and set in them. Their way of travelling in those Plains is by high Carts cover’d with Hoops and Cows-Hides like our Waggons, with Conveniency for Travellers to sleep in the bottom; which is so much the better, because they travel most by night to avoid the Heat. They are drawn by Oxen, which are frequently so pinch’d by Drought, that when they come towards any Water, which they smell at a great distance, they run furiously to it, and drink up the very Mud which they raise with their Feet. This obliges Travellers to furnish themselves with Water and other Provisions for their Journy; there being no Water to be had, except by Rain: so that Travellers are frequently as much distress’d for want of Water as the Oxen, and can scarce get any that’s clear at the Watering-places, tho they send before-hand, because the Oxen run with so much haste to it that they make it all in a puddle: _Ovalle_ says, that in this case Travellers are forc’d to stop their Noses and shut their Eyes when they drink it. The Journy thro these Plains is at least 14 or 20 days, without any place of shelter, or any Firing to dress their Victuals but the dry’d Dung of Cattle. Yet there are several Lakes and Ponds where Inns might be fix’d, but ’tis neglected because there’s no settled Trade that way.

It remains to give some account of the Towns upon the River _Plata_ and on the Road to _Potosi_. 1. _Buenos-Ayres_ lies upon the River 50 Leagues from the Sea, about Lat. 36. Our Linguist inform’d me that ’tis the Residence of a _Spanish_ Governour, is defended by a Stone Fort mounted with 40 Guns, and is generally garison’d by 4 or 500 Men. The Harbour is pretty good, but troublesom in a N W. and W. Wind. The River is 7 Ls. broad there, and navigable by Ships 60 Ls. above the Town, but no further, because of a great Cataract. The Town has one Cathedral, and five other Churches: The _Portuguese_ had a Settlement over against this Town, but were dislodg’d by the _Spaniards_ at the beginning of this War; since which time the _French_ drive a _Guinea_ Trade hither for Negroes, who are sent over Land to _Peru_ and _Chili_, and yield them vast Profit. The Trade from hence to _Spain_ is in Hides and Tallow, Silver from _Peru_, and Gold and Silver from _Chili_. All _European_ Goods yield a good Price here. They have plenty of Fruit-Trees about the Town of all kinds, both of the hot and cold Climates; and have store of Wheat and other _European_ Grain, besides _Indian_ Corn. Thousands of Cattel of all sorts run wild in the Neighbourhood, and they furnish _Peru_ with 50000 Mules _per ann._ In short, this place lies very convenient for Commerce in Silver and Gold, and the other Commodities of _Peru_ and _Chili_, which the _French_ have now begun to engross. They sent three Ships to those parts and the _South-Sea_, under M. _de Beauchesne Gouin_[110] of _St. Malo_ in 1698, of whose Progress I shall give a further account from a Copy of his Journal, as I go on with my Description of the Coasts. Their Winter here is in _May_, _June_, and _July_, when ’tis cold by night, but warm enough by day, the Frost never being violent, nor the Snow considerable in those parts.

Father _Sepp_,[111] who was here in 1691. tells us in his Voyage from _Spain_ to _Paraquaria_ or _Paraguay_, that _Buenos-Ayres_ has only two Streets built crosswise; that there are four Convents, one of which belongs to the Jesuits; that their Houses and Churches are built of Clay, and not above one Story high; that the Jesuits have taught them of late to burn Lime, and make Tiles and Bricks, with which they now begin to build. The Castle is likewise of Clay, encompass’d with an earthen Wall and a deep Trench, and defended by 900 _Spaniards_; tho in case of necessity above 30000 _Indian_ Horse might be arm’d out of the several Cantons, where they have been train’d by the Jesuits: But this boasting Account I can’t believe. They have in the Neighbourhood whole Woods of Peach, Almond, and Fig-Trees, which they propagate by putting the Kernels in the Ground: they grow so fast as to produce Fruit the first Year, and their Timber is us’d for Fewel. The adjacent Pastures are so fat and large, that many thousands of Beeves feed together; so that any one when he pleases goes into the Field, throws a Rope about their Horns, brings ’em home and kills ’em. They are very large, generally white, and being so numerous, are valu’d only for their Hides, Tallow, and Tongues; the rest being expos’d to the Birds and Beasts of Prey, which are very numerous, and frequently destroy the Calves. The Natives feed most on Beef half-raw without Bread or Salt, and in such quantities that they throw

[Sidenote: _Account of the River La Plata._]