Part 21
’Tis the Metropolis of its Province, about a Mile and half long, and divided into Old and New, joined by a wooden Bridge above half a Mile in Length, but passable only by People on foot. There are some Houses at a distance on each side the Bridge, and those of both Towns may be about 4 or 500 in the whole, besides 5 Churches, and the Inhabitants about 2000 in all. Their chief Church is that of St. _Jago_ or St. _James_ the Apostle, which has 7 Altars, and before it a handsom Square; the others are those of St. _Augustin_, St. _Francis_, St. _Dominick_, and St. _Ignatius_. The latter belongs to the Jesuits. Before that of St. _Dominick_, which is not quite finished, there is also a Square, with a Half-moon, upon which they formerly planted Guns, but none were mounted there when we took it. Three of these Churches were very lofty, one of them of Stone, and all adorn’d with Altars, carv’d Work, Pictures, _&c._ and there was an Organ in that of St. _Augustin_; but the Priests and their Scholars had carry’d off all the Plate belonging to those Churches, and retir’d with it into the Woods before we landed. Some of the Houses of the Town were very high, several built of Brick, but most of them of Timber, and the meaner sort of Bamboes. There is but one regular Street along the Side of the River to the Bridge, and from thence along the Old Town. The Situation is in a low boggy Soil, so dirty in Winter, that without the Bridge they could scarce go from one House to another. The Town is govern’d by a Corregidore, who is their chief Magistrate and appointed by the King. His Name was _Don Jeronymo Bos_, a young Man of about 24 Years of Age, and a Native of the _Canaries_. The Town is well seated for Trade, and building of Ships, for which they have Sheds to cover the Workmen from the Sun. It lies 14 Leagues up from Point _Arena_, and 7 from _Puna_. The River is large, receives several others, has many Villages and Farm Houses on its Banks, with abundance of Mangroves and Sarsaparilla, which impregnates its Water, and makes it good against the _French_ Pox, but in the Time of Floods it is unwholesome, because of the poysonous Roots and Plants wash’d down from the Mountains. They have Plenty of Provisions, black Cattle, Sheep, Goats, Swine, Poultry, several sorts of Ducks unknown in _Europe_, and Store of Horses. The Water of the River is fresh at low Water, almost as far as _Puna_. An _Englishman_ who had liv’d here some time, came over to us, inform’d us of many Particulars, and told us that in _December_ last they had 3 Weeks Rejoycings for the Birth of the Prince of _Asturias_, when they muster’d 1100 Foot and 500 Horse in Arms, besides a much greater Number that had none; but most of those Troops came from the adjacent Country. During this Solemnity, they baited many Bulls to Death, after the manner of _Spain_, and run at the Ring, _&c._ which are their chief Diversions: He told us likewise that Ships are frequently built here for the King. The Hostages inform’d us, that during the Treaty, 80000 Dollars of the King’s Money was sent out of the Town, besides their Plate, Jewels, and other Things of greatest Value: But they were robb’d of a great deal by the Blacks, to whom they had given it in the Hurry to carry off: We took several of ’em with stoln Goods, as we went the Rounds by Night; and therefore we made a Signal to the Inhabitants to return, as we march’d off, that they might not suffer any more Loss by those Villains.
The _French_, by their Commerce in these Seas, as the _Spaniards_ in general told us, damage their Trade so much, that their Sea-ports are sensibly impoverish’d, and this Town was much richer 6 Years go than now. A mile below I took my Leave of the Barks, with the Pinnace double mann’d, designing to get before them to the Ships at Point _Arena_. The Day came on very hot, and we saw many Alligators in the River.
_Apr. 29._ Last Night I reached _Puna_, and met Mr. _Duck_ and Mr. _Hatley_ in the _Beginning_, and an empty Bark which the _Duke’s_ Yall had taken in our Absence; the _Spaniards_ having run ashore and left her at Anchor off of Point _Arena_. Our People were concern’d at our being absent so long, and hearing no News of us, the Scarcity of Water had made ’em give the Prisoners but a Pint a Day for some time; and they sunk the last small Prize we took coming from _Payta_, to prevent the Prisoners running away with her, for they had not Men to spare for manning her themselves. By Day-light I got aboard, where I found all our People overjoyed at our Meeting again, after 12 Days Absence on an Undertaking subject to so many fatal Accidents, which we happily escaped. Captain _Cook_ and _Frye_ were very uneasie in our Absence, and had their full Share of Care and Fatigue. They usually gave the Prisoners Liberty by Day, but kept their Arms always ready, and the after Part of the Ships to themselves: At Night they shut ’em up in the Fore-Castle, or between Decks; but aboard the Prize, which was not so secure, they put them in Irons every Evening, and let ’em out in the Morning; but never suffer’d any Correspondence between the Prisoners in the several Ships, by which Means they neither knew their own Strength, nor our Weakness, any further than in the respective Ships they were confin’d to. _Roger Booth_, one of the _Dutchess’s_ Men, who was wounded through his Wind-pipe, in the Engagement with the _Havre de Grace_, died the 20th Instant. _William Essex_, a stout Sailor, one of our Quarter-Masters, being wounded in the Breast in the same Fight, died the 24th Instant: So that out of both Ships we lost 4 Good Men, including my dear Brother, by that Engagement. Mr. _James Stratton_, a Quarter-Master belonging to the _Dutchess_, that was wounded at the same time, by a Musket-Ball in his Thigh, is now out of Danger, The wounded in these Parts, are more frequently attended with Fevers, and other dangerous Accidents, than in _Europe_.
[Sidenote: _At Guiaquil._]
_Apr. 30._ About 3 Yesterday Afternoon a Sail from under the Main appear’d in sight running up the Channel to _Guiaquil_; Capt. _Cooke_ sent the _Havre de Grace_’s Boat in pursuit of her, but my Pinnace sailing better, followed and took her before Sun set: She was a Bark of above 30 Tuns, from _Sania_, call’d the _Francisco la Salma_, Senior _Jacomo de Brienas_ Master, with 6 Men on board: She was laden with about 270 Bags of Flour, Beans and Pease; near 200 Sugar-Loaves; several Frails of Quinces, Marmalet, Sugar-plumbs, and other Sweetmeats, with a good Quantity of large Pomegranates, Apples and Onions; a little of this Country Cheese, and dried Beef: They had been out 7 Days, and heard nothing of us; but confirm’d the Story of an _English_ Squadron expected in these Seas, and that there were several stout _French_ Ships in their Harbours, particularly two at _Lima_, and one at _Pisco_, besides others in the Harbours of _Chili_: That at _Chenipe_, whence they came, being the Sea-port to _Sania_, there was a strict Order lately sent from _Lima_ to the chief Officer there, to be on his Guard, and keep continual Watch in the same Manner as I have before noted, in the Order we found directed to the Lieutenant or Governour of _Puna_. This Morning, at 7, the _Beginning_ came to an Anchor by us, from _Puna_, with a few Jarrs of Water, which we mightily wanted.
Mr. _Goodall_ and others told me, there were no other Barks coming down but what went up with his, from the Ships for Water, and that he did not know the Reason why the rest stay’d there: He told me, he had a Letter from Capt. _Courtney_ to his Second, Capt. _Cook_, but no Message or Letter from him or Capt. _Dover_ to me; adding, he heard one of them say that they expected this Bark would meet the Ships half way coming up to _Puna_, and that they looked for me hourly. This unexpected Story surpriz’d me, but I suppos’d they might now have some Hopes of disposing our Cargo to the _Spaniards_ at _Guiaquil_, which occasion’d their Staying, and Expectation of my Return. I discours’d it with Capt. _Cooke_ and Mr. _Frye_, and saw Capt. _Courtney’s_ Letter, but not a Word of Advice to me: However, I resolved to hasten away the _Beginning_, with some Negroes (the most troublesome Goods we had) to dispose of, that they might be at _Puna_ before me. I began to unmore the _Havre de Grace_, in order to go up with the Flood, hoping to sell her Cargo, or good Part of it, while our Ships took in Water, resolving to save as much Time as possible. Mean while the other Water Bark arriv’d, but without any manner of Advice to me when those above design’d to come down, or to send the Men that were so much wanting aboard, to put things in order for our going to Sea.
_May 1._ Yesterday, in the Afternoon, I took Sen. _Morell_ for a Pilot, and weigh’d with the _Havre de Grace_, but having little Wind, and being neep Tides, I did not get one Third of the Way up to _Puna_, with that Flood: I was likewise but ill mann’d; because I was obliged to leave the Pinnace and Crew that came down with me for the Security of our Ship. We weigh’d again with the Morning Flood, and met the _Dutchess_’s Bark coming down, but without the least Advice to me from the 2 Captains at _Puna_, which farther confirm’d me that they waited for my Company, and the Ship, to sell her Goods: I was pleas’d at the Thoughts of this, for I concluded, that had it been otherwise, one, or both of them, would have come down, or have sent all the Barks, except one to stay for the Ransom. We were forced to anchor again before high Water; and the Tide shot us over towards the Island. There is a Shole Sand above half Way up to _Puna_, near mid Channel, over on that side, which ’tis difficult to avoid, unless we have a commanding Gale to keep in the Channel which is nearest the Main; ’tis the Starboard Shore as you go up, and there are gradual Soundings on both sides to the Shoal on the Larboard side, or the main Land on the Starboard side, keeping between 4 and 7 Fathom Water; the Coast clear of all is N. E. up the Channel, bearing about two large Leagues off Point _Arena_, where it’s bold, and all athwart, till we get 2 Leagues higher than Point _Arena_; and as we come against, or a little above, the white Chalky Cliff, near the Point or upper End, and the highest part of the Island of _Puna_, we must hall over for the Island, and come to an Anchor before the Houses, that are plain to be seen, when we get above the high Point, which is easily known, because all the Land on the Island is even with the Water, and elsewhere there’s nothing to be seen but Trees, down to the River. We must keep nearest the Starboard Shore, going up, which is the only Channel for Ships; ’Tis above 8 Leagues from Point _Arena_ to the Town of _Puna_; which lies on the upper End of the Island of that Name.
_May 2._ We got up to an Anchor before _Puna_, by 10 this Morning, where I found 4 of the Barks that came down from _Guiaquil_. Capt. _Dover_ and _Courtney_ came on Board, and contrary to Expectation told me, they had not heard one Word from the _Spaniards_ since we left them. This being the last Day appointed for Payment, a Boat came and brought us upwards of 22000 Pieces of 8, in part of the Ransom, which we immediately receiv’d, and dispatch’d the Boat back, telling them, we design’d to leave this Place in the Morning, and would carry off the Hostages, if they did not come time enough with the rest of the Mony to prevent it.
[Sidenote: _At Guiaquil._]
_May 3._ Yesterday in the Afternoon Capt. _Courtney_ took Charge of the _Havre de Grace_, and I agreed to follow him in the Morning, to Point _Arena_, after I had ship’d off 7 live Black Cattel, some Sheep, Hogs and Fowls, with a good Quantity of Plantains, about 80 Jarrs and some Casks of Water, 24 Packs of Cocoa, 2 Sails, and 4 large Brass Patereroes. Two Barks sail’d about Midnight with the _Marquiss_. I began again early in the Morning, and by 9 got all aboard. We agreed to leave the Lieutenant of _Puna_ here, giving him 4 old sick Negroes, and a damag’d Bail of Goods for what we had taken from him, being a Man we had some Respect for: We also parted very friendly with several of our Prisoners we took at Sea, particularly an old Padre that I had treated civilly at my own Table, ever since we took him, for which he was extremely thankful.
About a League before the Town I saw the _Havre de Grace_ at Anchor, near the Edge of a Shoal, and the _Dutchess_’s Pinnace coming from her, with Captains _Courtney_, _Dover_, and _Dampier_, who had quitted the _Havre de Grace_, and desired to exchange with me, which I did.
_May 5._ I went aboard the _Havre de Grace_ about 2 in the Afternoon, and got her out of Danger into the Channel, but came to an Anchor again, by the Advice of Senior _Morell_ and the _Indian_ Pilot: I encourag’d ’em and the Men to assist me as much as possible to get her under Sail, because we were in hast to be gone, but there being little Wind, I could not make use of half the Ebb, before I was again in shole Water, and came to an Anchor, where for the want of Wind we lay for the rest of these 24 Hours.
_May 5._ This Morning I got the Length of our Ships again, and soon after Day went aboard the _Duke_, being quite sick by my long Fatigue. Capt. _Courtney_ came to me aboard, and we agreed to throw the Timber and great Boat between Decks in the Galeon overboard, to make room for the Flour and _Guiaquil_ Goods which were yet in the Barks. We gave the Flour Prize to the Prisoners whom we let go, to carry to the Inhabitants of _Guiaquil_, and took in as much Water as we could get. Most of it was fetch’d half Way above _Puna_, in the River towards _Guiaquil_, and tho’ but very indifferent, we had not half enough for want of Time.
_May 6._ Our Hostages are very uneasy, fearing the Mony will not come in Time to redeem them, and it’s worse than Death, they say, to be carried to _Great Britain_. We got all aboard last Night, by 7 a Clock, our People being fatigued. I was willing to rest my self and them one Night before we sailed; but Capt. _Courtney_ was in too much hast, and my Second, Capt. _Dover_, and my Pilot _Dampier_ forsook me to go along with him. They sailed at Midnight with the _Havre de Grace_, leaving me and the rest at Anchor. Mr. _Connely_, who went in the Bark for Water, did not return till the Morning, when we saw our Consort and Prize at Anchor; for the Weather falling calm, they did not get 2 Leagues from us that Ebb. At high Water, about 10 this Morning, all the rest of us came to sail. Our small Bower Cable was cut with the foul Ground, and we lost our Anchor.
I endeavour’d, but in vain, to convince the other Captains that we were not yet in any danger from the Enemy, because it was not possible that the _French_ and _Spaniards_ could have Notice of us, and arm out time enough from _Lima_ to attack us.
_May 7._ Yesterday, about 4 in the Afternoon, we came to an Anchor again, in 13 Fathom Water, about 4 Leagues below Point _Arena_. At 2 this Morning, with a very small Breeze, we came to sail: Sometime after Senior _Morell_, that went with us up to _Guiaquil_ from _Puna_, and a Gentleman of that Town related to our Prisoners, brought us about 3500 Pieces of 8, in Plate, towards the Ransom: they came as far as Point _Arena_ in a Boat, and thence follow’d in one of the 4 Barks that we left by Agreement.
_May 8._ Yesterday, in the Afternoon, we discharg’d all our Prisoners, except the _Morells_, a little _Dutchman_, and a Gentleman’s son of _Panama_, with our _Indian_ Pilots, that I took aboard to amuse the People of _Guiaquil_ that we should return thither, and 2 more that desir’d to stay with us, besides the 3 Ransomers. The Gentleman that came from _Guiaquil_ had a Gold Chain and some other Moveables, with which he purchased the _Beginning_ of us, and we gave the Captain of the _Havre de Grace_ 3 Negroe Women, and Senior _Morell_, and Senior _Ignatius_, one a piece, and to all of them good part of their waring Apparel: So that we parted very friendly. They told us, A Prisoner we put a shore at _Puna_, call’d Senior Don _Pedro Sinfuegos_, was a Man of great Credit at _Guiaquil_; that he had got a good Sum together, before they came thence in order to buy Goods of us, and that they expected him in less than 12 Hours; adding, that there were several others coming down to trade with us, but the Majority of our Officers would not believe ’em, being resolved to make the utmost Dispatch for the _Gallapagos_ Islands: They press’d to know where they might meet us to trade, but every one was against informing them of the Place where we design’d to rendezvous, lest they should discover it to the Enemies Ships of War.
[Sidenote: _Description of Guiaquil._]
At 8 last Night we came to an Anchor in 16 Fathom Water. The Island _Sancta Clara_ bore N. E. by N. 5 Leagues. At 2 this Morning we weighed with the Flood, Wind at S. W. at 6 the Island bore N. by E. 4 Leagues distance.
_A Description of the Province of_
Guiaquil.
The City or Town of _Guiaquil_ is the Metropolis of a Province of that Name in _Peru_, govern’d by a President with 5 or 6 Orderes, which makes a Royal _Audiencia_ or chief Court of Judicature, accountable only to the Viceroy in military Affairs. Every Province has a Government of the same Nature.
These Governors are commonly appointed, or, to speak more properly, purchase their Offices in Old _Spain_, for Life, or good Behaviour; and in case any die, or misbehave themselves, the Vice-roy may name another during his Time, which ought to be but 5 Years; but sometimes he gets these Officers of his own placing confirm’d by an Order from _Spain_, which is a considerable Part of the Vice-roy’s unknown Profits. The late Vice-roy continued 14 Years, several new ones having died by the Way. The King of _Spain_ himself scarce lives in more Splendor than his Vice-roy in the City of _Lima_, where the chief Courts of Judicature are kept, and Appeals are brought thither from all Courts and Provinces of this extensive Kingdom. I should not here mention the vast Wealth the late Vice-roy obtain’d during his Government; the Sum being so large that I thought it fabulous, but that I was inform’d of it by so many Hands, who told me, that about 4 Years ago he died at least worth 8000000 Pieces of 8, and left it to his Widow and Children, but the greatest Part to his eldest Son, the _Conde de la Monclo_, besides vast Sums he gave away in Charity, during his Life-time, and the many Churches, Fryaries, and Nunneries that he built.
He left a better Character behind him than any Vice-roy had done for an Age past. The Conde, his eldest Son, waits here, expecting to succeed the present Vice-roy of _Peru_ or _Mexico_, if the Government holds in Old _Spain_; but I and every _Englishman_ ought earnestly to hope, that K. _Charles_ III. will happily recover that Monarchy, and gratefully place a Vice-roy here that will shew himself as good a Friend to the _English_ Trade, as the present Vice-roy does to the _French_; for he openly espouses their Interest, and encourages them; whereas the _Spaniards_ say, he racks and heavily oppresses their own Countrymen.
The Corregidore that last died at _Guiaquil_, tho’ he had possess’d the Office but 5 Years, had rak’d together 300000 Pieces of 8, tho’ his Post was not allow’d to exceed above 2000 Pieces of 8 _per Annum_; but all the Corregidores make vast Advantages by Seizures, and trading privately themselves.
The Trade to and from _Mexico_ is forbid here, under the severest Penalty, especially transporting Quick-silver from _Peru_ thither, because Quantities are brought from Old _Spain_, which is impos’d on the Refiners at great Rates. Here are many Ships employ’d coasting in this Kingdom; but a Trade is so severely prohibited between ’em and _Mexico_, that all the Commodities with Silver and Gold in Returns, may have little other Circulation in these vast Countries, but by the Flota and Galeons to and from Old _Spain_. Yet notwithstanding the Severity us’d against private Traders, by the Vice-roys and Corregidores, there are some that use it, who have no Mercy shew’d ’em if caught, all being seiz’d in the King’s Name, tho’ his Majesty has little or no Share of it; All such Seizures (as I am told) being divided amongst these Officers, and the poor Sufferer banish’d or confin’d to a Goal.
[Sidenote: _Description of Guiaquil._]
All _English_ and _Dutch_ Goods, except what comes by the Galeons, are prohibited here, so that the private Traders, after they have by stealth purchased ’em in the _North_ Seas, must vend ’em in like manner all over _Peru_, and if the wholesale Merchants have not a good Certificate from the Commerce of _Sevilia_, that their Commodities came by the Flota or Galeons; whenever the Goods are question’d, they must disown them, for fear of a worse Punishment, unless they have a good Interest in the Vice-roy, which costs dear to purchase, and preserve; so that the Trader makes little Profit, but where the chief Officers have a feeling: yet tho’ these mercenary Vice-roys are so severe on others, they themselves employ the Corregidores to negotiate a Trade for them by a 3d Hand, which cannot be done to the Purpose, without being publickly known; so that Ships are constantly imployed on their Account, and carry Quick-silver and all manner of prohibited Goods to and from _Mexico_ out of By-ports. Thus, being their own Judges, they get vast Estates, and stop all Complaints in Old _Spain_, by Bribes. The Goods they trade for have a free Passage and Sale through the Continent, whilst others, if they do but offer at it, are punish’d as above.
Their other Ways of getting Money unjustly are too many; but in short, in my Opinion, there’s no Country naturally more rich, nor any People more terribly oppress’d.