Part 22
The _Spaniards_ say, and I believe, not without Reason, That a Vice-roy, after purchasing his Place with all that he has, and quitting Old _Spain_ as poor as _Job_, comes here like a hungry Lion, to devour all that he can; and that every Officer under him in the Provinces (who are ten times more than are necessary) are his Jackals to procure Prey for him, that they may have a Share of it themselves.
To this we may add, the Burthen of a numerous and luxurious Clergy, that indulge their Pride, Sloth, Effeminacy and Bigottry, more than in the _Romish_ Countries of _Europe_: So that were this Country possess’d by an industrious and well govern’d People, we might have reason to fear, that Silver and Gold would become so plentiful, and by consequence of so little Value, that the World would be at a Loss to find a less troublesome and more acceptable Species to satisfy Avarice and Luxury.
The River of _Guiaquil_, from about 2 Leagues above _Puna_ to Point _Arena_, is so broad, that a Man can scarce see cross the Channel; the Land down to the Water-side, is low and cover’d with Mangrove Trees; the Tide flows above 3 Fathom, and an East and West Moon, as near as I could guess, makes High-water at _Puna_. The Tide has a quick Current, much stronger than in the _Thames_, and I believe the Ebb is little inferior to that at _Bristol_, and the Water as thick, and as much discolour’d. Not being able to describe the Channel plain enough to direct Strangers, I shall give a View of it from a _Spanish_ Draught; for I had not time enough to draw the Channel, or found it all along. There’s need of a good Pilot to carry a Vessel to the Town. The River is 14 Leagues navigable beyond it, and the Tide flows 20 Leagues above it, but Canoes and Bark-Logs go much higher.
The Province abounds with several sorts of good Timber, which makes it the chief Country of _Peru_ for building and repairing Ships; there’s seldom less than 6 or 7 at a time on the Stocks before the Town of _Guiaquil_. The chief Commodity this City and its Province afford is _Cocoa_, which is so plentiful, as to supply most Places on the _South Sea_; they say there’s never less exported in a Year than 30000 Cargaus, each Cargau 81 Pound Weight, and sometimes double the Quantity: It was purchas’d generally at half a Ryal _per_ Pound, but now much cheaper, so that the Cargau may be bought for 2 Pieces of Eight and a half. Their coasting Trade is for Salt and Salt Fish, from Point _Santa Helena_, and most vended at _Quito_ and other distant Places within Land. A vast quantity of Timber is laden here for _Truxillo_, _Chancay_, _Lima_, and other Sea-ports, where ’tis scarce; it pays a great Freight, and is a profitable Trade: They export also from hence Rice, Cotton, and some dry’d Jerkt Beef. There are no Mines of Silver or Gold in this Province, but Plenty of all sorts of Cattle, and very cheap, especially on the Island _Puna_, where we supply’d our selves with what we could stow conveniently. Here’s no other Corn but _Indian_, so that all their Flower is brought from _Truxillo_, _Cheripe_, and other Places in the Windward Parts, it blows here always Southerly. They are also supplied with several sorts of Woollen Cloth, and very good strong Bays made at _Quito_; their Wine, Brandy, Oil, Olives and Sugar, _&c._ come from _Piscola_, _Nasca_, and other Places to Windward. All sorts of _European_ Goods come hither from _Panama_, whither they are brought over Land from _Portobello_ out of the North Seas; so that the Number of Ships that come and go from hence, without including the Coasters, are no less than 40 Sail every Year, which shows that the Port of _Guiaquil_ is no mean Place of Trade in this Part of the World. A Market is also kept on Bark-Logs and Boats in the River every day before the Town, with all that the Country affords in great plenty.
Having thus given an account of the Wealth and Trade of the Town and Province from my own Knowledge, or good Information, I shall now proceed to give a further Account of the Strength and Government of the Province. The Corregidore is Governour in all Civil and Military Affairs of the whole; the next is his Lieutenant, call’d by the _Spaniards_ Lieutenant General, and all the chief Officers reside in or near _Guiaquil_.
[Sidenote: _Description of Guiaquil._]
Their Method of trying Civil and Criminal Causes being different from ours, I shall give as clear an Idea of it as I can. When any Court is held, or urgent Affair happens, the following Persons are summon’d to the Council in _Guiaquil_. First, the Corregidore, the Lieutenant General, 2 Alcaldes or Justices, who are generally Men vers’d in the Law, and serve in the nature of Mayors and Justices by turns every Year; the next is the Algozil Major, with 8 Regidores or Common Council-men, who supply the room of the superior Officers, in case of Absence or Death, till the Viceroys Pleasure be known, and always give their Votes in publick Affairs; in Cases of Law they are a standing Jury, and the Corregidore is Judge, but generally follows the Advice of the Alcalds. The Plaintiff or Defendant may appeal after Trial to the Supream Court of _Lima_, which is encourag’d by the Gentlemen of the Law, who improve Suits to such a Degree, that tho’ they are almost as numerous as the Clergy, yet they are a thriving Society, seldom want Imployment, and have large Fees. There are 2 Attorneys call’d Clerks of the Court, and 4 Algozils or Serjeants. All Lawyers are allow’d to practise here, and have a Sallary from the King besides their Fees, and since Money abounds here, many of ’em don’t scruple taking Fees on both Sides.
The Inquisition rages worse here than in Old _Spain_; their chief Court is at _Lima_, but 4 Officers from that Court are settl’d at _Guiaquil_, besides 24 Clergy belonging to the Town, who inform against any Person that they suspect of Opinions contrary to the _Roman_ Church, and with a violent Zeal prosecute ’em almost without any Formality. The Offenders are speedily sent to the chief Court at _Lima_, where nothing but a great deal of Money can save ’em, if found guilty in the least degree.
Their Military Men affect great Titles, and their Strength is as follows.
The Corregidore is General, _Don Hieronimo Boso_. Master le Camp, _Don Christopher Ramadeo de Areano_. Serjeant Major, _Don Francisco Gantes_. Commissaria de la Cavalaria, _Don Antonio Calabria_.
They have 5 Dons all Captains of Infantry, and each of ’em a large Company: One Don is a Captain of near 200 Horsemen, and there are Lieutenants, Ensigns, Serjeants, Corporals and Drummers to each Company, as customary among the _Spaniards_. By the most reasonable Computation of their Force, they could in a few days bring together 900 armed Horse and Foot Militia; and I was inform’d by them they had not less than 500 of these in a Body before we landed, and beat ’em out of the Town, there being always that Number ready in the Towns and adjacent Parts upon an Alarm. These and many more form’d a sorry Camp within a League of us in the Woods, whilst with about 160 Men we kept the Town till they ransom’d it. An _English_-man that run over to us after the Fight, who had lived 2 Years in the Town, and saw their Force, told us there were many more than what the _Spaniards_ acknowledge by the abovemention’d Account, and that he saw at one time, a few Months before, upwards of 1100 Horse and Foot drawn up and muster’d before the Town.
Their other Towns are govern’d by Lieutenants deputed by the Corregidore; above half of ’em border on the same River and its Branches, so that they can join those of the Capital in 2 Tides, tho’ at several Leagues distance. These Towns and Lieutenancies are as follow.
_A LIST of the Lieutenancy of this Province._
_Leagues._
_Y Aquache_, govern’d by a Lieutenant, distant from } _Guiaquil_} } 7
_Bava_ 12
_Pemocho_ has 6 Brass Guns of 16 Pound Ball,} both govern’d by the same Lieutenant. } 14
_Puna_, } { 9 _Naranghal_, } By the same Lieutenant { 14 _Machala_, } { 14
_Daule_, a Lieutenant 7
Point _St. Hellena_,} { 30 _Colonche_, } by the same Lieut. { 20 _Chongong_, } { 7 _Chandoe_, } { 10
_Sheba_, } { 21 _Babaoya_, } by the same Lieut.{ 16 _Chilintoam_, } { 14
_Porto Vaco_, } { 34 _Charapeto_, } { 36 _Peco Assaa_, } by the same Lieut.{ 25 _Manta_, } { 40 _Hepe Hapa_, } { 30
_Porto Vaco_ was formerly the Metropolis of the Province, before the Government was removed to _Guiaquil_.
[Sidenote: _At Guiaquil._]
In the Towns and the whole Province the _Spaniards_ compute at least 10000 Inhabitants; but I believe there are many more. They are distinguish’d by themselves into 11 Classes or Sorts, which being particular, and worth remarking, I shall add a Description of them, for the Information of such as have not been in those Parts.
The first and chief is the original _Spaniards_, never yet mix’d with other People (at least as they pretend) and these are most respected.
2. The _Mustees_, begot by _Spaniards_ on _Indian_ Women.
3. _Fino Mustees_, their Children married again with the _Spaniards_.
4. _Terceroons de Indies_, their Children again mix’d with the _Spaniards_.
5. _Quarteroons de Indies_, their Posterity again mix’d with the _Spaniards_. These last are allowed to be Primitive _Spaniards_ again.
6. _Mullattoes_, begot by a _Spaniard_, or any _European_, on a Negro Woman.
7. _Quarteroon de Negroes_, again mixt with the _Spaniards_, and esteem’d no better than _Mullattoes_.
8. _Terceroon de Negroes_, a third Mixture with the _Spaniards_, still call’d _Mullattoes_, because they will not allow ’em the Privilege or Title of _Spaniard_ after once debas’d with the Negro Breed, tho’ some of ’em are as white as themselves; but they can’t get off the ugly Name of _Mullatto_, unless they hide their Descent, which is no hard Task, if they remove their Abode to another Place where they are not known, which is often practis’d and conniv’d at by the Fathers of the Church, to increase the Number of good Catholick _Spaniards_.
9. The 9th Sort is _Indians_, who are all of a dark Olive-tawny Colour; these (tho’ the true and antient Proprietors of the Country) are placed a Class below the worst of the _Spanish_ Descendants, which are generally begot without Marriage on their Servants and Slaves.
10. _Negroes._
11. All the Species and Breeds between the _Negroes_ and _Indians_ are call’d _Sambos_, tho’ by mixing their Breed as they do, they commonly differ little or nothing to the Eye from the _Spanish_ mix’d Descendants.
These 11 are the common Sorts, tho’ some of ’em seem not very regularly distinguish’d: But they have rung Changes so often in those Peals of Generation, that there is no End of their Distinctions. The _Spaniards_ are the fewest by far of all the Inhabitants; and were it not for those Mixtures, which the Fathers of the Church keep united, the _Indians_ might again take possession of their Country, for the _Spaniards_ would be too few to keep it, and much more uncapable of peopling it. Few of those Prisoners that fell into our hands were healthy and sound; near half of the _Spaniards_ discover’d publickly to our Doctors their Malady, in order to get Physick from them against the _French_ Disease, which is so common here, that they reckon it no Scandal to be deep in the Powdering Tub; and the Heat of the Country facilitating the Cure, they make very light of it. All the _Spaniards_ I discours’d allow that this rich Country is not a tenth peopled, nor are half the _Indians_ far within Land civilized, tho’ they affirm their King has in the _West Indies_ more Subjects of several Colours, than in all _Spain_, or the rest of his Dominions in _Europe_ (which may be true) and I believe they are such Subjects, as no Christian King can boast of; for the King of _Spain_ is able to match the Skins of his _Americans_ to any Colour, with more Variety and Exactness than a Draper can match his Cloth and Trimming.
The Account that the _French_ Buccaneers, _alias_ Pirates, gave of this Place, is so false, that there’s not the least Truth in it; so that by their Description it would not appear to be the same Place, had they not left infamous Marks of their being here: For when they took the Town of _Guiaquil_ about 22 Years ago, they discover’d little or no Bravery in the Attack (tho’ they lost a great many Men) and committed a great deal of Brutishness and Murther after they had the Place in their Power, which was above a Month here and at _Puna_. The Seasons here are improperly call’d Winter and Summer; the Winter is reckon’d from the Beginning of _December_ to the last of _May_, and all that Season is sultry hot, wet and unhealthy. From the latter End of _May_ to _December_ ’tis serene, dry and healthy, but not so violently hot as what they call Winter.
Their _Cocoa_ is ripe, and mostly gather’d between _June_ and _August_, and of the other Fruits natural to these Climates, some are ripe and others green all the Year. But I return to my Journal, and the Account of our Voyage to the _Gallapagoes_ Islands.
[Sidenote: _From Guiaquil towards the Gallapagos._]
_May 11._ A fresh Gale at S.S.W. We had upwards of 20 Men that fell ill within these 24 Hours, and our Consort near 50, of a malignant Fever, contracted as I suppose at _Guiaquil_, where I was informed, that about a Month or 5 Weeks before we took it, a contagious Disease which raged there swept off 10 or 12 Persons every Day for a considerable time; so that the Floors of all the Churches (which are their usual Burial Places) were fill’d so fast, that they were obliged to dig a large and deep Hole of about a Rod square, close by the great Church, where I kept Guard; and this Hole was almost fill’d with Corps half putrified. The Mortality was so very great, that many of the People had left the Town, and our lying so long in the Church surrounded with such unwholsom Scents, was enough to infect us too.
Capt. _Courtney_ was taken ill, and Capt. _Dover_ went on board the _Dutchess_ to prescribe for him.
_May 14._ This Day we saw a great many Albacores in pursuit of Flying Fish, and a very large Albacore[131] leap’d into one of our Boats. We have now about 50 Men down, and the _Dutchess_ upwards of 70; but I hope the Sea Air (which is very fresh) will make the Climate more healthy.
_May 15._ At 6 last Night Mr. _Samuel Hopkins_, Dr. _Dover’s_ Kinsman and Assistant, died; he read Prayers once a Day ever since we pass’d the Equinox in the North Sea: He was a very good temper’d sober Man, and very well beloved by the whole Ship’s Company.
_May 17._ This Morning we saw the Land bearing S. S. W. about 10 Leagues distant. It seems a large Island, and high Land: We tack’d and stood E. by S. Wind at S. by E. to turn up to Windward for the Island. Our Men in both Ships continue very ill; we have near 60 sick, and the _Dutchess_ upwards of 80. We had a good Observation, Lat. 00°. 37´´. S.
_May 18._ At 6 last Night the End of the Island bore S. by E. distant about 5 Leagues. _Edward Downe_ died at 12 at Night. When Day broke we were within 4 Leagues of 2 large Islands almost joining together, having passed the other that we saw yesterday. We sent our Boat ashore to look for Water, and agreed with our Consort where to meet in case of Separation. They turn’d towards an Island we saw to Windward, and left us to try this Island for Water: All our Prizes were to stay near us under Sail by a remarkable Rock.
_May 19._ Yesterday in the Afternoon the Boat return’d with a melancholy Account, that no Water was to be found. The Prizes we expected would have lain to Windward for us by the Rock, about 2 Leagues off Shore; but Mr. _Hatley_ in a Bark, and the _Havre de Grace_, turn’d to Windward after our Consort the _Dutchess_; so that only the Galleon and the Bark that Mr. _Selkirk_ was in staid for us. We kept plying to Windward all Night with a Light out, which they follow’d. At 5 in the Morning we sent our Boat ashore again to make a further Search in this Island for Water. About 10 in the Morning _James Daniel_ our Joiner died. We had a good Observation, Lat. 00° 32´´. S.
_May 20._ Yesterday in the Evening our Boat return’d, but found no Water, tho’ they went 3 or 4 Miles up into the Country: They tell me the Island is nothing but loose Rocks, like Cynders, very rotten and heavy, and the Earth so parch’d, that it will not bear a Man, but breaks into Holes under his Feet, which makes me suppose there has been a Vulcano here; tho’ there is much shrubby Wood, and some Greens on it, yet there’s not the least Sign of Water, nor is it possible, that any can be contain’d on such a Surface. At 12 last Night we lost sight of our Galleon; so that we have only one Bark with us now.
_May 21._ Yesterday in the Afternoon came down the _Dutchess_ and the _French_ Prize. The _Dutchess_’s Bark had caught several Turtle and Fish, and gave us a Part, which was very serviceable to the sick Men, our fresh Provisions that we got on the main Land being all spent. They were surpriz’d as much as we at the Galleon, and _Hatley_’s Bark being out of Sight, thinking before they had been with us. We kept Lights at our Top-mast’s Head, and fir’d Guns all Night, that they might either see or hear how to join us, but to no Purpose.
Capt. _Courtney_ being not yet quite recover’d, I went on board the _Dutchess_, and agreed with him and his Officers, to stay here with the _Havre de Grace_ and Bark, whilst I went in quest of the missing Prizes. At 6 in the Morning we parted, and stood on a Wind to the Eastward, judging they lost us that way. Here are very strange Currents amongst these Islands, and commonly run to the Leeward, except on the Full Moon I observed it ran very strong to Windward; I believe ’tis the same at Change.
_May 22._ Yesterday at 3 in the Afternoon we met with the Galleon under the East Island, but heard nothing of Mr. _Halley’s_ Bark. At 9 last Night _Jacob Scronder_ a _Dutch_-man, and very good Sailor, died. We kept on a Wind in the Morning to look under the Weather Island for Mr. _Hatley_, and fired a Gun for the Galleon to bear away for the Rendevouz Rock, which she did.
[Sidenote: _At the Gallapagos Islands._]
_May 23._ Yesterday at 3 in the Afternoon we saw the Weather Island near enough, and no Sail about it. We bore away in sight of the Rock, and saw none but our Galleon; we were in another Fright what became of our Consort, and the 2 Prizes we left behind; but by 5 we saw ’em come from under the Shore to the Leeward of the Rock. We spoke with ’em in the Evening; we all bewail’d Mr. _Hatley_,[132] and were afraid he was lost: We fir’d Guns all Night, and kept Lights out, in hopes he might see or hear us, and resolved to leave these unfortunate Islands, after we had view’d two or three more to Leeward. We pity’d our 5 Men in the Bark that is missing, who if in being have a melancholy Life without Water, having no more but for 2 Days, when they parted from us. Some are afraid they run on Rocks, and were lost in the Night, others that the 2 Prisoners and 3 Negroes had murder’d ’em when asleep; but if otherwise, we had no Water, and our Men being still sick, we could stay little longer for them. Last Night died _Law. Carney_ of a malignant Fever. There is hardly a Man in the Ship, who had been ashore at _Guiaquil_, but has felt something of this Distemper, whereas not one of those that were not there have been sick yet. Finding that Punch did preserve my own Health, I prescribed it freely among such of the Ships Company as were well, to preserve theirs. Our Surgeons make heavy Complaints for want of sufficient Medicines, with which till now I thought we abounded, having a regular Physician, an Apothecary, and Surgeons enough, with all sorts of Medicines on board. Our Owners believed so too, and did often at home set forth the uncommon Advantage we had in being so carefully provided for this tedious Voyage; but now we found it otherwise, and had not sufficient Medicines to administer for the Recovery of our sick Men, which so many being sick in both Ships, makes it a melancholy Time with us.
_May 21._ Yesterday at 5 in the Afternoon we ran to the Northward, and made another Island, which bore N. W. by W. distant 5 Leagues; and this Morning we sent our Boat ashore, to see for the lost Bark, Water, Fish or Turtle. This Day _Tho. Hughes_ a very good Sailor died, as did Mr. _George Underhill_, a good Proficient in most parts of the Mathematicks and other Learning, tho’ not much above 21 Years old: He was of a very courteous Temper, and brave, was in the Fight where my Brother was kill’d, and served as Lieutenant in my Company at _Guiaquil_. About the same time another young Man, call’d _John English_, died aboard the _Haver de Grace_, and we have many still sick. If we had staid in the Harbour, we should in all probability have lost near half of our Men. We had a good Observation, Lat. 00°. 14´´. N.
_May 25._ Yesterday at 6 in the Evening our Boat return’d from the Island without finding any Water, or seeing the Bark. About 4 in the Morning we stood to another Island, that bore about N. E. distant 4 Leagues, and the _Dutchess_ went to view another to the S. W. of it. Last Night _Peter Marshal_ a good Sailor died. This Morning our Boat with Mr. _Selkirk’s_ Bark went to another Island to view it. We had an Observation, Lat. 00°. 35´´. N.
_May 26._ Last Night our Boat and Bark return’d, having rounded the Island, found no Water, but Plenty of Turtle and Fish. This Morning we join’d the _Dutchess_, who had found no Water. About 12 a Clock we compar’d our Stocks of Water, found it absolutely necessary to make the best of our way to the Main for some, then to come off again; and so much the rather, because we expected that 2 _French_ Ships, one of 60, and another of 40 Guns, with some _Spanish_ Men of War, would suddenly be in quest of us.