Part 8

_Octob. 8._ At seven in the Evening (after having put the Deputy-Governour ashore, where he must lie in a Hole of the Rocks, there being no House on that part of the Island) we came to sail: our Consort got before us, and lay with a Light for us. There were several Negroes on the Island, that came from _St. Nicholas_ and _St. Antonio_ to make Oil of Turtle, there being very good green Turtle at this time of the Year, which I sometimes gave our Men to eat. They have likewise wild Goats, but in no great plenty; wild Asses, _Guinea_-Hens and Kerlews, and abundance of Sea-Fowls. Capt. _Dampier_, and others aboard each Ship, that had formerly stopt at _St. Jago_, another of these Cape _de Verd_ Islands, told us, that tho this Island is not often frequented by Ships, yet it is preferable to _St. Jago_ for stopping outward, because ’tis a much better Road for Ships, and more convenient for Water and Wood, and has better Landing. The Island is mountainous and barren, the plainest part lies against this sandy Bay where we rode. The Wood that grows in it is short, and for no use but Firing. They have very large Spiders here, which weave their Webs so strong betwixt the Trees, that ’tis difficult to get thro ’em. Where we water’d, there’s a little Stream that flows down the Hill from a Spring, and is very good, but in other parts ’tis brackish. This Island was formerly inhabited, and had a Governor, but is now only frequented in the Season for catching Tortoises by the Inhabitants of the other Islands, who are for the most part Negroes and Mulattoes, and very poor. The Stock of wild Goats in this Island is almost destroy’d by the People of _St. Nicholas_ and _St. Antonio_. The Heats are excessive to us who came newly from _Europe_, so that several of our Men began to be sick, and were blooded. Some of our Officers that went ashore a hunting, could meet no Game but a wild Ass, which after a long Chase they got within shot and wounded; yet he afterwards held out so as to tire them, and they return’d weary and empty-handed.

These Islands are so well known, that I need not say much of ’em. They are ten in number, of which _St. Jago_, _St. Nicholas Bonavist_, _St. Antonio_, _Brava Mayo_, and _Fuego_ are inhabited: The latter is so nam’d from a _Volcano_. _St. Jago_ is much the largest and best, and the Seat of the chief Governour. It produces a small matter of Indico, Sugar and Tobacco; which, with their Goat-Skins and others, they send to _Lisbon_. The Capital is of the same Name, and the See of a Bishop. There is also a Town call’d _Ribera Grande_, which is said to consist of 500 Houses, and has a good Harbour towards the West. The Air of this Island is not very wholesom, and the Soil uneven. Their Valleys produce some Corn and Wine. Their Goats are fat and good Meat, and the she ones are said to bring three or four Kids at a time once in four months. _St. Nicholas_ is the best peopled next to _St. Jago_. The Island _Mayo_ has a great deal of Salt naturally made by the Sun from the Sea-Water, which is left from time to time in Pits on shore: It’s known they load many Ships with that Commodity in a Year, and are able to furnish some thousands, had they Vent for it. The fine _Marroquin_ Leather is made of their Goats-Skins. The other inhabited Islands afford more or less of Provisions. They have their Name from Cape _Verd_ on the _African_ Coast, from whence they lie about 160 Leagues to the Westward. The _Portuguese_ settled here in 1572. We had very hot Weather here. On the 8_th_ a brisk Gale at E N E. At nine last night _St. Antonio’s_ bore N W by N. dist. 3 Ls. from whence we took our Departure for the Isle of _Grande_ in _Brazile_.

_Octob. 9._ Fair Weather, brisk Gale of Wind at N E. We saw abundance of flying Fish. At 12 a clock being near the Lat. 14 N. we hal’d up S E. by S. to get well to the Eastward, expecting as usual to meet with Southerly Winds, when near the Equinoctial. Had an Observ. Lat. 12. 53.

_Octob. 10._ Fair Weather, moderate Gales of Wind at N E by E. These 24 hours we met with several great Riplings as if a Current, which had it been calm we would have try’d.

[Sidenote: _From St. Antonio to the Southward._]

_Octob. 11._ Wind and Weather as before till seven last night, when we had much Lightning follow’d by a hard Shower of Rain, and a Calm ensu’d. Such Weather is customary as we draw near the Line.

_Octob. 14._ Cloudy Weather, with moderate Gales from the S S W. to the S W. by W. all last night; but this morning cloudy Weather, with hard Showers of Rain. This day we put up the Smith’s Forge, and he began to work on such things as we wanted.

_Octob. 21._ Yesterday I din’d on board Captain _Courtney_. Nothing remarkable happen’d since the 14_th_, but veerable Winds and frequent Showers of Rain, with Calms. We agreed with our Consort, if possible, to stop at the Isle _Trinidado_, and not to water and refresh at _Brazile_, for fear of our Mens deserting, and losing our time.

_Octob. 22._ Close cloudy Weather all night, with Squalls of Rain. At ten this morning it clear’d up: Capt. _Courtney_ came aboard of us, and sent back his Boat for Capt. _Cook_, with Orders to bring Mr. _Page_, second Mate, with him, to be in the room of Mr. _Ballett_, that we exchang’d out of our Ship. _Page_ disobeying Command, occasion’d Capt. _Cook_, being the superior Officer aboard, to strike him; whereupon _Page_ struck him again, and several Blows past: but at last _Page_ was forc’d into the Boat, and brought on board of us. And Capt. _Cook_ and others telling us what Mutiny had pass’d, we order’d _Page_ on the Fore-Castle into the Bilboes.[94] He begg’d to go into the Head to ease himself; under that pretence the Corporal and the rest left him for a while: upon which he leapt over board, thinking to swim back to the _Dutchess_, it being near calm, and the Captains out of the Ship. However, the Boat being along side, we soon overtook him, and brought him on board again. For which and his abusive Language he was lash’d to the Main-Geers[95] and drub’d; and for inciting the Men to Mutiny, was afterward confin’d in Irons aboard the _Duke_.

_Octob. 28._ At five last night we were on the Equinoctial, and spy’d a Sail about 4 Leagues dist. to Windward, bearing S. by E. and thinking she had not seen us, we lay by in her way from six a clock till half an hour past ten, hoping to meet her if bound to the _West-Indies_; but it growing dark, and she having, as we suppose, seen us before night, and alter’d her Course, we saw no more of her. This day we began to read Prayers in both Ships Mornings or Evenings, as Opportunity would permit, according to the Church of _England_, designing to continue it the Term of the Voyage. Cloudy Weather, moderate Gales at S E by S.

_Octob. 29._ This Morning I let Mr. _Page_ out of Irons on his humble Submission, and acknowledging his Fault, with Promises of Amendment. Fair pleasant Weather, with a fresh Gale.

_Novemb. 1._ This Morning between one and four a clock the Sea seem’d to be in a Breach as far as we could see, being a Moon-light Night. The Watch being surpriz’d, call’d me up; for they suppos’d it to be something extraordinary, and hove the Lead: but finding no Ground, were all easy, and afterwards believ’d that it was the Spawn of Fish floating on the Water. Fair Weather, with moderate Gales.

_Novemb. 2._ This Morning two Persons being accus’d of concealing a Peruke of the Plunder in the _Canary_ Bark, two Shirts, and a Pair of Stockings; and being found guilty, I order’d them into the Bilboes: After which they begg’d pardon, promis’d Amendment, and were discharg’d. Pleasant Weather and moderate Gales of Wind from E S E to S E by S. Had an Observ. Lat. 7. 50. S.

_Nov. 4._ Yesterday about four in the Afternoon we spoke with our Consort, and agreed to bear away for the Island of _Grande_ in _Brazile_, it being uncertain to fetch the Island of _Trinidado_; and besides, by the time we could get the length of it, being generally close Weather, and the Sun in the Zenith, we might miss so small an Island; which would prove a great loss of time to us. Close Weather, with a fresh Gale of Wind at S E by E.

_Nov. 13._ Nothing remarkable since the fourth. We have had the Winds very veerable. Now we draw near the Land, the Wind veers to the Northward, and often strong Gales with hazy Weather. About eleven last night we made a Signal to our Consort, and both lay by, thinking our selves to be near the Land. This morning came on moderate Weather, and we made sail again. Wind at N by E.

_Nov. 14._ This Morning at five we made the Land of _Brazile_ very plain, bearing N W. We had several Soundings on the Sand call’d in the Maps _Bonfunda_, from 28 to 50 Fathom Water; brown fair Sand, with grey Stones amongst it. We had several Showers of Rain with very little Wind from N N E. to N by W. Lat. 22. 9. S.

[Sidenote: _Make the Land of Brazile._]

_Nov. 15._ At ten a clock last night we had a heavy Turnado with Lightning, which fell as if it had been liquid. While this Storm held, which was not above an hour, we had all our Sails furl’d; yet the Ship lay along very much. Wind at S W. but afterwards calm, and little Wind. The Sun being near the Zenith here at this time, occasions such Weather. As soon as Day appear’d, we saw the Land bearing West about 7 Ls. dist. a small Breeze at N N W. We stood in with it, but could not be certain what Land it was: we had sundry Soundings from 40 to 50 Fathom Water, coarse Sand.

_Nov. 16._ Yesterday Evening having a brave Breeze at E. we stood in with the Land, and suppos’d it to be the Island of Cape _Frio_. It makes the Southermost Land of several other Islands; is high and uneven. This Island appears in two Hills to the Southward: The least looks like a Saddle, and appears at a distance like two Islands, but as you draw near it, you see that it joins.

_Nov. 17._ This Morning, the Weather being calm, our Pinnace went ashore with Capt. _Dampier_ into a sandy Bay about two Leagues off; they brought aboard a large Tortoise which our People eat. The Tortoises on this Coast have a strong Taste. Foggy Weather, and very little Wind from the East to the S W. sometimes calm.

_Nov. 19._ Yesterday in the Afternoon we came to an anchor in 22 Fathom Water. The East End of the large Island, which we took to be _Grande_, bore W S W dist. about 4 Ls. and there’s a high woody Point at the West end of the low sandy Bay, which at last we run by, about one League and a half from us. We sent our Pinnace ashore well-mann’d to this Point, with Capt. _William Dampier_, in order to be certain whether it was the Entrance of _Grande_ between the two Lands. The Boat return’d about ten a clock at night, with a Confirmation that it was the Island of _Grande_, as we had suppos’d: So we immediately weigh’d with a small Breeze; but it soon falling calm, we came to anchor again: then weigh’d with another small Breeze, and row’d and tow’d; by the help of which, at twelve a clock we came to an anchor in the middle of the Entrance of the Island of _Grande_ in 11 Fathom water. The Entrance goes in W by S. a remarkable white Rock on the Larboard side of the Bay bore S E. about a mile and a half. ’Tis a long Entrance near 5 Leagues from the place we anchor’d at.

_Nov. 20._ Yesterday at one a clock in the Afternoon we sent our Boats in, with a Lieutenant in one Boat, and Capt. _Dampier_ in the other, to sound all the way to our watering-place, and see if no Enemy lay there. I borrow’d the _Dutchess_ Yall, and kept her a-head sounding; but having a Breeze against us, we got little ground. This morning at four we weigh’d again with the Wind at N E. and got both into the Bay on the West side of the Isle of _Grande_, but could not reach the Cove where we design’d to water: heavy Showers of Rain took us. At eleven we row’d and tow’d into the Cove, where our Consort had been an hour before us: A _Portuguese_ Boat came from a small Cove on our Starboard side as we came in, and told us they had been rob’d by the _French_ not long before.

_Nov. 21._ Yesterday Afternoon it rain’d so hard that our Men could not work. At four a clock Capt. _Courtney_ put eight of his Men in Irons for disobeying Command; and knowing ’em to be Ringleaders, was willing to secure them whilst here, where they could run away. About six a clock it began to clear up, and our Pinnace with Capt. _Cook_ and Lieutenant _Pope_ went to _Angre de Reys_, as it’s call’d in Sea-Draughts, but the _Portuguese_ call it _Nostra Seniora de La Conception_, a small Village about three Leagues distant, to wait on the Governour, and acquaint him with our Arrival, with a Present of Butter and Cheese, to procure his Friendship if any of our Men should run away. The Boat return’d at twelve at night, and told us that when they came near the Town it was almost dark; that the People suspecting they were _French_, fir’d on ’em several times, but did no hurt, and when they came ashore begg’d their pardon. The Fryars invited them to the Convent, and told ’em they were often plunder’d by the _French_, or they should not have been so ready to fire at ’em. The Governour was gone to _Riojanero_, a City about 12 Ls. distant, but expected back every day. This morning our Men went in our Boat to hall our Fishing-Net, and caught some very good Fish much better than those at _St. Vince_.

_Nov. 22._ Yesterday Afternoon we got our empty Casks ashore, and sent our Carpenter with a _Portuguese_ to look out Wood for Trusle-Trees,[96] our Main and Fore Trusle-Trees being both broke: but the Weather prov’d so wet and sultry, that we could do little or nothing. Here are abundance of

[Sidenote: _At the Isle of Grande in Brazile._]

Graves of dead Men; and the _Portuguese_ tell us, that two great _French_ Ships homeward bound from the _South Seas_, that water’d in this same place about nine months before, had bury’d near half their Men here; but God be thank’d ours are very healthy. At this place the _French South-Sea_ Ships generally water both out and homewards. This Morning we had several Canoes from the Town, with Limes, Fowls, _Indian_ Corn, _&c._ to exchange for such things as we could spare. We treated ’em all very civilly, and offer’d a Gratuity to such as would secure our Men if any of ’em run away: they all promis’d to give us good Information, and assist us in searching after ’em.

_Nov. 23._ This was a fair pleasant Day, but violent hot. We heel’d the _Dutchess_ both sides by us, we had a great deal of Wood cut, caught excellent Fish with our Lines, and had several Canoes from the Town, which inform’d us of a Brigantine at an anchor in the Entrance where we came in. I sent our Pinnace mann’d and arm’d to know what she was, and found her a _Portuguese_ laden with Negroes for the Gold Mines. Our Boat return’d and brought a Present, being a Roove[97] of fine Sugar and a Pot of Sweet-meats from the Master, who spoke a little _English_, and had formerly sail’d with ’em. The Way that leads to these Gold Mines is not far from this Place by Water, but the _Portuguese_ say they lie several days Journy up in the Country; and some will tell you ’tis ten or fifteen days, others a month’s Travel from the Town of _Sanetas_, which is the Sea-Port; for they are cautious how they discover the Truth: but there is certainly abundance of Gold found in this Country. They told us, the _French_ often surprize their Boats, and that at one time when the _French_ staid to water, which could not exceed a month, they took of Gold above 1200 _l._ weight (in Boats from the Mines bound to _Rio-Janero_, because the Way is not good by Land.)

_Nov. 24._ Yesterday in the Afternoon we clean’d one side by the _Dutchess_, and this Morning the other side, gave the Ships great Lists; and having Men enough, whilst our Ship was cleaning, we let the Pinnace with Capt. _Dover_, Mr. _Vanbrugh_, and others, go to take their pleasure, but to return by twelve a clock, when we should want our Boat. When they return’d, they brought with them a monstrous Creature which they had kill’d, having Prickles or Quills like a Hedghog, with Fur between them, and the Head and Tail resembled those of a Monkey. It stunk intolerably, which the _Portuguese_ told us was only the Skin; that the Meat of it is very delicious, and they often kill’d them for the Table. But our Men being not yet at very short Allowance, none of ’em had Stomach good enough to try the Experiment: so that we were forc’d to throw it overboard, to make a sweet Ship. Soon after came several Canoes with _Portuguese_ in ’em, whom we treated very civilly.

_Nov. 25._ This Day was fair, but very hot. We had three or four Canoes aboard, one of which had three Fathers belonging to the _Franciscan_ Convent at _Angre de Reys_. We had got a great deal of Water and Wood aboard, with new Trusle-Trees fix’d to the head of the Fore-Mast.

[Sidenote: _At the Isle of Grande._]

_Nov. 26._ Yesterday Afternoon we rigg’d the Fore-Mast again, and got almost all our Water on board. Last night one _Michael Jones_ and _James Brown_, two _Irish_ Landmen, run into the Woods, thinking to get away from us; tho two such Sparks run away the 25_th_ from the _Dutchess_, and in the night were so frighted with Tygers, as they thought, but really by Monkeys and Baboons, that they ran into the water, hollowing to the Ship till they were fetch’d aboard again. About four this Morning the Watch on the Quarter-Deck spy’d a Canoe, and call’d her to come on board; but they not answering, and trying to get away, made us suspect they had either got our Men that run away last Evening, or were coming by Agreement to fetch ’em off the Island, which was uninhabited. We immediately sent the Pinnace and Yall after ’em; the Pinnace coming up near the Canoe, fir’d to stay ’em, but to no purpose; at last they wounded one of the _Indians_ that row’d in the Canoe. He that own’d and steer’d her was a Fryar, and had a Quantity of Gold which he got at the Mines, I suppose by his Trade of confessing the Ignorant. The Fryar had just ran the Canoe ashore on a little Island full of Wood as our Boats landed, and afterwards told us he hid some Gold there. A _Portuguese_ that would not run away with the Father, because he had no Gold to hide, knew our People to be _English_, and call’d the Father back. The Man that was wounded could not move, and was brought by our Men, with the Father and several Slaves that row’d the large Canoe, on board our Ship, where our Surgeon dress’d the wounded _Indian_, who died in two hours time. I made the Father as welcome as I could, but he was very uneasy at the Loss of his Gold and the Death of his Slave, and said he would seek for Justice in _Portugal_ or _England_.

_Nov. 27._ Yesterday in the Afternoon the _Dutchess_ weigh’d, and tow’d out of the Cove about a mile, and came to anchor to wait for us: Their Boats returning to the Cove to fetch what was left, they spy’d two Men waiting under the side of a Wood by the Shore, for a _Portuguese_ Canoe to get ’em off; but our Boats landed on each side of the Point, where they were not seen, found ’em to be the Men that left us the Evening before, and brought ’em to us. I order’d ’em both to be severely whip’d, and put in Irons.

This Morning Capt. _Courtney_ and I, with most of our Officers, except those which we left to do what little remain’d unfinish’d on board the Ships, went in our Boat to _Angre de Reys_, it being the Day kept for the Conception of the Virgin _Mary_, and a high Day of Procession amongst these People. The Governour Signior _Raphael de Silva Lagos_, a _Portuguese_, receiv’d us very handsomly. He ask’d us if we would see the Convent and Procession: we told him our Religion differ’d very much from his. He answer’d we were welcome to see it, without partaking in the Ceremony. We waited on him in a Body, being ten of us, with two Trumpets and a Hautboy, which he desir’d might play us to Church, where our Musick did the Office of an Organ, but separate from the Singing, which was by the Fathers well perform’d. Our Musick play’d, _Hey Boys up go we!_[98] and all manner of noisy paltry Tunes: and after Service our Musicians, who were by that time more than half drunk, march’d at the head of the Company, next to them an old Father and two Fryars carrying Lamps of Incense with the Host, next came the Virgin _Mary_ on a Bier carry’d on four Mens shoulders, and dress’d with Flowers and Wax-Candles, _&c._ After her came the Padre Guardian of the Convent, and then about forty Priests, Fryars, _&c._ Next was the Governour of the Town, my self, and Capt. _Courtney_, with each of us a long Wax-Candle lighted: Next follow’d the rest of our Officers, the chief Inhabitants, and junior Priests, with every one a lighted Wax-Candle. The Ceremony held about two hours, after which we were splendidly entertain’d by the Fathers of the Convent, and then by the Governour at the Guard-House, his Habitation being three Leagues off. It’s to be noted, they kneel’d at every Crossway, and turning, walk’d round the Convent, and came in at another Door, kneeling and paying their Devotion to the Image of the Virgin and her Wax-Candles. They unanimously told us, they expected nothing from us but our Company, and they had no more but our Musick.