Part 13
The Curious who would know more of the Manners of the Natives, or the History and particular Product of this large Country, may find it in _Gemelli_,[112] Father _Sepp_, and Father _Techo_,[113] but this is enough for my purpose, to shew what a vast Field of Trade may be open’d here, and how dangerous it may prove to all _Europe_, if the House of _Bourbon_ continue possess’d of that Trade.
Some being of Opinion that our _South-Sea_ Company may possess themselves, by virtue of the late Act, of the River _de la Plata_, as far up that River and Country as they please, either in the Provinces of _Paraguay_ or _Tucuman_; I shall give a further Description of those large Provinces, after taking notice that according to several of our Draughts _Paraguay_ lies both on the E. and W. side of the River _La Plata_; according to others, entirely on the E. side, and _Tucuman_ on the W. side. The _Sansons_ make _Paraguay_ 720 miles from S. to N. and 480, where broadest, from E. to W. and place it betwixt S. Lat. 14 & 24. Long. 315 & 325. but the Breadth is not equal. Father _Techo_ says the River _Paraguay_, which gives name to the Country, is one of the greatest in _America_, receives several other large Rivers, runs 300 Leagues before it falls into the _Parana_, about 200 from the Sea is navigable, and together with the _Parana_ forms the River _La Plata_. The word _Paraguay_ in the Language of the Country signifies the Crown’d River, because the Inhabitants wear Crowns of Feathers of several beautiful Colours, which they have from the Birds that abound in that Country. I shall not insist upon the several Nations that inhabit it, among whom the _Garanians_ are the chief, and submitted first to the _Spaniards_; but growing weary of the Slavery they subjected them to, revolted, and were with much difficulty subdu’d after their Leaders were cut off, about 1539. The chief Discovery of this Country is owing to _Dominick Irala_, who in the Reign of the Emperor _Charles_ V. was sent by the Governour _Alvar Nunez Cabeca de Vaca_ with 300 chosen Men, and went 250 Leagues up this River, to endeavour a Communication with _Peru_, but was oppos’d by some of the Natives, of whom 4000 were kill’d, and 3000 taken in a Battel. The Governour went afterwards on the Discovery himself, and sailing up the River, came to a delicious Island, which his Men call’d _Paradise_, and would have settled there, but he dissuaded them, and advancing to the Borders of _Peru_, found a large Town of 8000 Houses deserted by the Inhabitants, who were affrighted with the noise of the _Spanish_ Fire-Arms. ’Tis said they found in this Town a great Market-place, with a wooden Tower in form of a Pyramid built in the middle, and a monstrous Serpent kept in it by which the Devil pronounc’d Oracles: this Serpent they kill’d with their Fire-Arms. But a Difference happening betwixt the Officers and Soldiers about dividing the Booty, they return’d to _Assumption_ without pursuing the Discovery any further.
[Sidenote: _Account of the River La Plata._]
This Province, till that of _Tucuman_ was taken from it, contain’d all the Country betwixt _Brazile_ and _Peru_. Our Author adds, that besides the Towns above-mention’d the _Spaniards_ built here _Corientes_ on the Conflux of the _Paraguay_ and _Parana_, which is but a small Town, no way suiting the Dignity of those two Rivers: That 100 Leagues up the _Parana_, in the Province of _Guirana_, the _Spaniards_ built two little Towns call’d _Villarica_ and _Guaira_; that on the upper part of the _Paraguay_ they built _Xeres_ and another _Villarica_, to join _Paraguay_ on that side to the further Provinces; and lastly, the City of _Conception_ on the Marshes of the red River which falls into _Parana_, and was of great use to curb the fierce Nations in the Neighbourhood. He adds, that all these Towns were first planted by a Race of the noblest Families in _Spain_. He mentions an extraordinary Herb here call’d _Paraguay_ by the name of the Country; it grows in marshy Grounds, and the Leaves being dry’d and powder’d, and mix’d with warm Water, the _Spaniards_ and Natives drink it several times a day, which makes them vomit, and strengthens their Appetite. They look upon it as a sort of Catholicon, use it so much that they can’t live without it; and this Custom has so much overspread the neighbouring Provinces, that the Inhabitants will sell any thing to purchase it, tho the excessive Use of it occasions the same Distempers as the immoderate Use of Wine. They did so fatigue the Natives to gather and powder this Herb, that multitudes of ’em died; and this, with other slavish Employments, did much dis-people the Country. The Natives live mostly by Fishing, Hunting, and Shooting.
[Sidenote: _Account of the River La Plata._]
_Tucuman_ is 300 Leagues long, but varies much in breadth. ’Tis inhabited by four Nations: The furthest South have no fix’d Dwellings, live by Fishing and Hunting, and carry about Mats to serve them for Tents. The North People live in Marshes, and feed most on Fish. The Southern People are the tallest, but the Northern the fiercest; and many of them live in Caves, but those nearest _Peru_ in Villages. They are all very slothful, and have store of Brass and Silver, but make little use of them. They have large Sheep which carry their Burdens, and their Wool is almost as fine as Silk. They have many Lions, not so large and fierce as those of _Africa_, but their Tygers are fiercer than those of other Countries. Their two chief Rivers are _Dulce_ and _Salado_, so call’d from the sweet and salt Taste of their Waters. They have multitudes of Springs and Lakes, some of which have a petrifying quality. The Country was formerly very populous, but their Numbers are much decreas’d since the _Spaniards_ planted among them. They easily subdu’d this Country, which was govern’d by abundance of petty Princes continually at war with one another. This Province was first discover’d in 1530. by one _Cæsar_ a Soldier belonging to _Sebastian Cabot_, and three more, at the time when _Pizarro_ took _Atabalipa_ the Great _Inga_ of _Peru_. In 1540. the Viceroy of _Peru_, _Vaca de Castro_, assign’d this Country to _John Rojas_ as a Reward for his Services. He went thither with 200 _Spaniards_, but was kill’d on the Frontiers by a poison’d Arrow, and his Men under _Francis Mendoza_ march’d thro to the River of Plate. _Mendoza_ being kill’d as going up that River by Mutineers, _John Nunez Prada_ was sent hither by the Viceroy _Peter Gasca_, subdu’d the _Indians_, built the Town of _St. Michel_ on the Banks of the River _Escava_, and settled Fryars there. This Province was afterwards subjected to _Chili_; and _Francis d’Acquire_ being sent thither with 200 _Spaniards_, destroy’d _St. Michel_, and built _St. Jago_, now the Metropolis of _Tucuman_, on the River _Dulce_, in S. Lat. 28. says _Techo_, but others place it on the River _Salado_. ’Tis the same Town I have already describ’d. In 1558. _Tarita_ being made Governour of this Province, built the City of _London_ near the Borders of _Chili_, about Lat. 29. calling it so out of compliment to Q. _Mary_ of _England_, at that time marry’d to _Philip_ II. of _Spain_. This Town serv’d to curb the Natives. _Tarita_ did likewise rebuild _St. Michel_, and reduc’d the Country so much, that 80000 _Indians_ who submitted to _Spain_ were muster’d in the Territory of _St. Jago_. The _Spaniards_, as was usual in those days, fighting with one another about the Command of the Provinces, _Tarita_ was drove out in 1561. by _Castaneda_; so that most of the Natives revolted, till 1563. that _Francis d’Acquire_ reduc’d ’em again, and built _Esteco_ above-mention’d. But the _Spaniards_ contending afterwards with one another about the Government, many of their Settlements were destroy’d; so that in _Techo’s_ time the chief Places remaining in this Country were _St. Jago_, _Cordoua_, _St. Michel_, _Salta_ or _Lerma_, _Xuxui_ or _St. Salvador_, _Rioja_, _Esteco_ or _Nuestra Señora de Talavera_, _London_, and a few other small Garisons. He says that in this Country it does not rain in Winter, but in Summer they have thick Mists and Rains enough. The Jesuits are the chief Missionaries here, and settled in the principal Towns. He adds, that near the City _Conception_, which is ninety Leagues from _St. Jago_, the Natives were call’d _Frontones_, because they made the Fore-part of their Heads bald. Their Arms were a Club at their Girdle, Bows and Arrows, and Staves set with Jawbones of Fishes. They went naked, and painted their Bodies to make them look terrible. They were continually at War among themselves about the Limits of their Land, and they fix’d the Bodies of their slain Enemies in Rows to the Trunks of Trees, that others might be afraid of invading their Borders.
He adds, that the Country about _St. Michael_ is well peopled, abounds with Woods, and all sorts of _European_ and other Fruits, so that it was call’d _The Land of Promise_; but they are much infested with Tygers, which the Natives kill with great dexterity. _Guaira_ a Province of _Paraguay_ is very hot, because for the most part under the Tropick of _Capricorn_; is very fruitful, but subject to Fevers and other Diseases: yet when the _Spaniards_ came hither in 1550, they are said to have found 300000 People in this Country, but they say there’s scarce a fifth part of that number now; and the Natives very miserable, having no Meat but the Flesh of wild Beasts nor Bread but what they make of the Root _Mandiosa_. There are Stones here which breed in an oval Stone-Case, about the bigness of a Man’s Head. Our Author says, they lie under ground, and when they come to maturity, break with a noise like Bombs, and scatter abundance of beautiful Stones of all colours; which at first the _Spaniards_ took to be of great Value, but did not find ’em so. The other remarkable Product of this Country is a Flower call’d _Granadillo_, which the Jesuit says represents the Instrument of our Saviour’s Passion, and produces a Fruit as big as a common Egg, the Inside of which is very delicious. 2. A Fruit call’d _Guembe_, which is very sweet, but has yellow Kernels, which if chew’d, occasions a sharp Pain in the Jaws. 3. Dates, of which they make Wine and Pottage. 4. Wild Swine which have their Navel on their backs, and if not cut off immediately when the Beast is kill’d, corrupts the whole Carcase. 5. Abundance of wild Bees, several sorts of which yield store of Honey and Wax. 6. Snakes which dart from the Trees, and twist themselves about Men or Beasts, and soon kill ’em if they be not immediately cut in pieces. 7. _Macaqua_ Birds, so call’d because of an Herb which they eat as an Antidote when hurt by Snakes, which lie and watch for them in the Marshes. They frequently fight those Snakes, for which Nature has provided them with sharp Beaks for a Weapon, and strong Wings to serve them as a Buckler. Our Author mentions the River _Paranapan_, which runs thro this Country, is almost as large as the _Paraguay_, and falls into the _Parana_. Its Banks on both sides are cover’d with tall Trees, especially Cedars, of so vast a Bulk that they make Canoes out of a single Trunk, which row with twenty Oars. The Jesuits built the Towns of _Loretto_ and _St Ignatius_, and two more near the Conflux of this River and the _Pyrapus_, about 1610, and eleven more have since been built in that Province, where they have brought over many of the Inhabitants to their Religion. They kill’d many of the _Spaniards_ at first, and then eat them. These Towns are plac’d by the _Sansons_ about Lat. 22. and betwixt Long. 325, and 330.
[Sidenote: _Account of the River Oronoco._]
Our Author not being distinct in describing the Provinces of _Paraguay_ and _Tucuman_, but sometimes confounding one with the other, I shall only add a few things more relating to those Countries in general. He mentions a People call’d _Guaicureans_ who live on the Banks of _Paraguay_ near the City _Assumption_, maintain themselves by Fishing and Hunting, and eat all manner of Serpents and wild Beasts without hurt. They have Tents of Mats, which they remove at pleasure. They dawb one side of their Bodies with stinking Colours, scarify their Faces to make them look terrible, suffer no Hair to grow on their Bodies; and instead of a Beard fasten a Stone of a finger’s length to their Chin, and make their Deformity the Standard of their Valour. Their chief Delight is in Drunkenness and War; and to acquire the Title and Dignity of Soldiers, they must endure to have their Legs, Thighs, Tongues, _&c._ bored with an Arrow; and if they flinch in the least, are not allow’d that Quality: and therefore they inure their Children from their Youth to all sorts of Hardship, and to run Thorns and Briars into their Flesh by way of Pastime. They honour their Commanders so much, that when they spit they receive it into their hands, stand about them when they eat, and observe all their Motions. They chose to fight by night, because they knew nothing of Order, but made their Onsets like Beasts. They either kill’d or sold their Prisoners, if at Man’s Estate, and the young ones they bred in their own way. They lurk’d in Marshes and Woods by day, keeping Spies abroad; and thus they plagu’d the _Spaniards_ for above a hundred years, till they were civiliz’d by some Missionaries. They would not allow their Women to paint with a Clay-colour till they had tasted human Flesh; and therefore when they kill’d Enemies, would divide them among the young Women, or give them the Corpse of their own Dead. They planted Trees over their Graves, adorn’d them with Ostrich Feathers, and met there at certain times, howling in a most barbarous manner, and performing many lewd and hellish Ceremonies. They worship Parrots as Gods, and have a sort of Bears call’d Ant-Bears: They have long Heads, Snouts much longer than those of Swine, and Tongues like Spears, which they thrust into the Ant-Hills, and lick up those Insects, which are as big as the top of one’s finger, and being toasted over the fire, are eat by the Natives and _Spaniards_ too as a Dainty.
Father _Techo_ mentions another People nam’d _Calchaquins_ in this Country, whom he supposes to have been of _Jewish_ Descent, because when the _Spaniards_ came first here, they found that many of them had _Jewish_ Names, and something of their Habit and Customs. Our Author draws a Parallel in several Instances; but this, as well as his Arguments to prove that St. _Thomas_ the Apostle planted Christianity in this Country, will scarce obtain Credit among the Learned. I refer the Curious who would know more of those things to our Author, who brings down what he calls the History of this Country as low as 1645. which is the latest Account we have yet printed, except Father _Sepp’s_ abovemention’d, which brings it to 1691. of which I have given the Substance already.
Before I go further, I shall give some account of the River _Aranoca_ or _Oronoco_, which is the Northern Boundary of our _South-Sea_ Company’s Limits. The Head of it, according to our Maps, is about N. Lat. 3. and in Long. 77. It runs Eastward about 840 miles, about 60 miles N. of the Equator, then runs N. about 420. and turning NE. about 120, falls into the Sea about N. Lat. 9. So that its whole Course is about 1370 miles, including Turnings and Windings; for it runs almost the whole Breadth of that part of _America_, since it rises within 160 miles of the _South-Sea_.
Mr. _Sparrey_,[114] who was left in the adjoining Country by Sir _Walter Raleigh_ in 1595. gives the following Account of this River. He says it is also call’d _Barequan_, is a great River, and others call it _Pariæ_. It falls into the Sea by sixteen Mouths; but according to _Sansons_ Map, what _Sparrey_ calls Mouths are a number of Islands which lie near the Shore at the Entrance of the River, and the chief of those Mouths nam’d _Capuri_ lies furthest South. They say it has 9 foot water at full Sea, and but 5 at Ebb: It flows but a small time, when it rises apace, and the Ebb continues 8 hours. There are several other ways of entring this River, for which I refer to _Sparrey_; as also for the other Rivers which fall into it on both sides. He attempted a Passage to _Peru_ this way, but in vain. He says that in this Search he enter’d the great River _Papemena_, which is six Leagues broad, and came to a pleasant Island call’d _Athul_, where the Climate is temperate, the Island is well water’d, and abounds with Fish, Fowls, and other Animals for Food. It has many Woods that abound with delicate Fruit all the Year. There’s store of Cotton, Balsam, _Brazile_ Wood, _Lignum Vitæ_, Cypress Trees, several Minerals and fine Stones, but for want of Skill he could not judg of the Value of ’em. This Island was not then inhabited, because of the Cannibals nam’d _Caribbes_ in the Neighbourhood. He is of opinion, that Westward from _Oronoco_ Gold might be found; but it was dangerous to go far into the Country, because the Natives were continually in Arms. He adds, that in the Country of _Curae_, part of the Province of _Guiana_, which lies on the S. and E. of _Oronoco_, there was plenty of Gold; but it was dangerous seeking for it in the Sands of the Rivers, because of Crocodiles. He talks also of Pearl or Topazes found here, but dubiously. At _Camalaha_ South of _Oronoco_, he says, there was then a Fair for Women Slaves, where he bought 8 for a coarse red-hafted Knife, the eldest of whom was not above 18 years old. The Inhabitants, he says, are generally swarthy. We have few modern Accounts of this River, because it is not much frequented for Trade; and therefore I shall say no more of it, but return to my Journal.
* * * * *
Nothing remarkable happen’d till _Decemb. 6._ when we had close cloudy Weather, with Showers; Wind at E. by N. We saw a large Bird call’d _Alcatros_, who spread their Wings from eight to ten foot wide, and are much like a Gannet.
_Dec. 7._ Rainy Weather, with Thunder and Lightning, a brisk Gale from E by N. to N E. This day I remov’d one of the Boatswain’s Mates, and put _Rob. Hollanby_ one of our best Sailors in his place.
[Sidenote: _From Grande towards Juan Fernandez._]
_Dec. 10._ Yesterday I exchang’d _Benjamin Long_, one of the Boatswain’s Mates, with _Tho. Hughes_ Boatswain’s Mate on board the _Dutchess_; he being mutinous there, they were willing to be rid of him.
_Dec. 13._ We had a strong Gale of Wind at S W. Yesterday in the Afternoon we reef’d our Main-Sail, which was the first time since we left _England_.
_Dec. 15._ The Colour of the Water being chang’d very much, we founded, but had no Ground: so that this Change is probably occasion’d by the nature of the Ground at bottom. We find it much colder in this Lat. which is 43. 30 S. than in the like degree N. tho the Sun was in its furthest Extent to the Southward: which may be ascrib’d partly to our coming newly out of warmer Climates, which made us more sensible of the Cold; or ’tis probable the Winds blow over larger Tracts of Ice than in the same Degrees of N. Latitude.
_Dec. 18._ Cold hazy rainy Weather. Yesterday in the Afternoon one of the _Dutchess_’s Men fell out of the Mizen-Top down on the Quarter-Deck, and broke his Skull: They desir’d the Advice of our Surgeon, and I went on board with our two, where they examin’d the Wound, but found the Man irrecoverable; so that he died, and was buried next day. Brisk Gales from the W N W. to the W by S.
_Dec. 19._ Cold airy Weather: We saw several Grampusses, and a great number of uncommon sort of Porpusses, black on their Back and Fins, and white underneath, with sharp white Noses; they often leap’d a good height out of the Water, turning their white Bellies uppermost: they were much of the shape and bigness of our Porpusses. We also saw many Seals.
_Dec. 20._ This day, according to what our Committee agreed at _Grande_, we exchang’d Mr. _Vanbrugh_ for Mr. _Bath_ Agent of the _Dutchess_. Easy Gales of Wind, but very veerable. This morning at four we had a very thick Fog, when we were caught in Stays,[115] and lost sight of the _Dutchess_, tho we made all the noise agreed on between us. At nine a clock it clear’d up, being very little Wind, and we were within a League of them.
_Dec. 21._ Easy Gales of Wind, but very veerable. We have seen a deal of Rock-Weed for some days past, of a great length and generally round in large Branches. Lat. 48.50. S.
_Dec. 22._ Fair Weather with Rain, Wind very veerable. The Water is generally discolour’d. We had a good Observ. Lat. 49.32. S.
_Dec. 22._ At ten this morning, we saw Land, bearing S S E. dist. 9 Ls. It appear’d first in three, afterwards in several more Islands. At twelve it bore S. 1/2 W. the West End dist. 6 Ls. a long Tract of Land. We saw most of that which appear’d at first to be Islands, join with the low Lands. The Wind being Westerly, and blowing fresh, we could not weather it; but was forc’d to bear away and run along Shore from 3 to 4 Ls. dist. It lay as near as we could guess E N E. and W S W. This is _Falkland’s_ Land, describ’d in few Draughts, and none lay it down right, tho the Latitude agrees pretty well. The middle of it lies in Latitude 51.00. S. and I make the Longitude of it to be 61. 54. West from _London_. The two Islands extend about two Degrees in Length, as near as I could judg by what I saw.
_Dec. 24._ Last night we reefed both Courses; it blowing strong, lay by from eight till three in the Morning, with our Heads to Northward, Wind at W by S. because we could not tell how far _Falkland_ Islands ran to the Eastward. Between two and three a clock yesterday in the Afternoon we ran by a high round large white remarkable Rock, which appear’d by it self near 3 Ls. without the Land; which is not unlike _Portland_, but not so high, and the Rock like that call’d the _Fastneste_ to the Westward of Cape _Clear_ in _Ireland_. At four yesterday in the Afternoon the North-East End bore S E by S. 7 Ls. the white Rock bore S. 3 Ls. At six the Eastermost Land in sight bore S.E. 7 Ls. All this Land appear’d with gentle Descents from Hill to Hill, and seem’d to be good Ground, with Woods and Harbours. At three a clock we made sail, steering S E. Lat. 52. S.
[Sidenote: _From Grande towards Juan Fernandez._]