Part 15

I have insisted the longer on these Straits, partly because they are so much talk’d of, and partly to justify our going to the _South-Seas_ by the way of Cape _Horne_, which is far more safe: so that in all probability the Straits of _Magellan_ will be little frequented by _Europeans_ in time to come.

The Land on the North side of the Straits is call’d _Patagonia_, and that on the South _Terra del Fuego_, because of the numerous Fires and the great Smoke which the first Discoverers saw upon it. It extends the whole Length of the Straits, and lies from East to West about 130 Leagues, according to _Ovalle_; and before the Discovery of the Straits of _St. Vincent_, otherwise call’d _Le Maire’s_ Straits, was suppos’d to join to some part of the _Terra Australis_. _Ovalle_ says, that on the Continent of _Chili_, near the Straits of _Magellan_, there’s a People call’d _Cessares_, who are suppos’d to be descended from part of the _Spaniards_ that were forc’d ashore in the Straits, when the Bishop of _Placentia_ sent the Ships abovemention’d to discover the _Molucca_ Islands. ’Tis suppos’d they contracted Marriages with some _Indian_ Nation, where they have multiply’d, and taught them to build Cities and the Use of Bells. _Ovalle_ says, that when he wrote the History of _Chili_, he receiv’d Letters and other Informations that there is such a Nation in those parts, and that one of the Missionaries had been in the Country with Captain _Navarro_, and found the People to be of a white Complexion with red in their Cheeks; by the Shape of their Bodies they seem’d to be Men of Courage and Activity, and by the Goodness of their Complexion ’twas probable they might be mix’d with a Race of _Flemmings_, who had been ship-wreck’d in those parts. But there being no farther Account of these People since _Ovalle’s_ Account of _Chili_ in the Year 1646. we believe this Relation to be fabulous.

[Sidenote: _Account of the Straits of Magellan._]

M. _de Beauchesne Gouin_, who is the last that attempted the Passage of the Straits of _Magellan_, that we have heard of, came to an anchor at the _Virgins_ Cape in the mouth of this Strait the 24_th_ of _June_ 1699. and the Wind being contrary, he lay at anchor betwixt the Continent and _Terra del Fuego_. He weighed again, the Winds being still contrary, and on the third of _July_ anchor’d at Port _Famine_ in the Straits, where the _Spaniards_ had built a Garison, but were forc’d to quit it for want of Provisions. He observes, that from the Mouth of the Straits to this place, the Climate seem’d to be as temperate as in _France_, tho now the coldest Season of the Year in those parts. He found abundance of Wood for Firing, but the greatest Inconveniency he met with there, was from the great Storms of Snow, tho it did not lie long, being carry’d off by Rains which come from the West. He is of opinion that a Settlement might easily be made here, in a part of the Country extending above 20 Leagues; and that he was inform’d the Islands of _St. Elizabeth_ in the Straits are proper enough for Corn and Cattel, if planted with them. He sent his Sloop ashore on _Terra del Fuego_, where he saw Fires, and found the savage Natives by 50 or 60 together in Companies, and some of them came aboard his Ship that lay 5 Ls. from the shore. They were very peaceable and friendly, but more miserable than our Beggars in _Europe_, having no Clothes but a strait Coat of wild Beasts Skins, that comes no lower than their knees, and pitiful Hutts made up of Poles cover’d with Skins of Beasts; and this is all the shelter they have against the Extremity of the Weather. They came in such multitudes to beg from him, as soon made him weary of their Company; so that he weigh’d again the 16_th_ of _August_, and stopt at Port _Galand_ to leave some Letters there for those who were to follow him from _France_, as had been agreed on. And here he observes, that both the Climate and the Navigation of the Straits are very unequal; and that from this place to the Entrance of the _South-Sea_ there’s nothing but extraordinary high Mountains on each side, from whence come very impetuous and frightful Torrents, and scarce any place for Anchorage to be found, or one Day without either Rain or Snow. He adds, that he found an Island opposite to the Mouth of the Strait of _St. Jerom_, that is set down in none of our Maps. This Island, he says, has two good Harbours, which may be of great consequence to those who pass this way. He took possession of it, call’d it by the name of the Island _Louis le Grand_; the largest Harbour he nam’d Port _Dauphin_, and the lesser, which is very convenient, Port _Philippeaux_. After having given this Character of those Straits, he says one may be sure of a Passage thro them, provided it be in the proper Season, but ’tis very difficult in the Winter. He came out of those Straits into the _South-Sea_ on the 21_st_ of _January_, 1700. and went to view the Harbour of _San Domingo_, which he says is the _Spanish_ Frontier, and the only Place where a new Settlement can be made there, the rest being all possess’d already. He arriv’d there the 3_d_ of _February_, 1700. and on the 5_th_ anchor’d on the East of an Island call’d by different Names, but the latest Authors call it _St. Magdalens_ Island. He sent his first Lieutenant to view and take possession of it, who brought him word that it was a very pleasant place, and shew’d him some fine beautiful Shrubs and Pease-Blossoms that he found upon the East side of it; from whence he conjectures that it may be a proper place to inhabit, tho he owns that the Climate is very moist, and they have frequent Rains and Mists, which he ascribes to the high Mountains. He made ready to discover four other Islands, which lie in view of this Isle and the Main Land, and sounded as he went on, but durst not venture to go among ’em with so large a Ship, because there blew a strong North-West Wind, follow’d by a thick Mist, which made him lose sight of Land; so that to his great sorrow he could not compleat the Discovery of that Frontier. He adds, that ’tis full of high Mountains down to the very Sea; but was afterwards inform’d by a _Spaniard_ who winter’d in those parts, that there’s a very good Harbour for Ships to ride in, where they may be moor’d to tall Trees, and that there are very few Inhabitants on this Coast, but some wandring Savages, like those on the Straits of _Magellan_.

This and the other Journals convince me intirely that the best way to the _South-Sea_ is round Cape _Horne_, the Route we pursu’d in our Voyage.

Besides what I said from my own Observation, to prove how extensive a Trade we might have in those Seas, I shall add the following Observations from M. _de Beauchesne_; who says, that tho he was look’d upon as a Free-Booter, and that the then _Spanish_ Governours on those Coasts were forbid to trade or suffer the People to trade with any but their own Subjects in those Seas, and that at _Valdivia_ and other places they fir’d at him when he approach’d their Harbours, and deny’d so much as to sell him any Provisions, or to suffer him to wood or water; yet at _Rica_ some particular Persons traded with him to the Value of 50000 Crowns, and told him, That that place was not so proper for them to act so manifestly contrary to Law, but if he went to a place more retir’d, they would buy all he had, tho both his Ships were full of Goods. Accordingly, when he came to _Hilo_, a great number of Merchants bought all that he had of Value at good rates. He owns that the Cloth he had on board was half rotten, that the Merchants were vex’d at their Disappointment, and express’d their Resentment that he should come to those parts so ill provided: but in other places the People bought all to the very Rags he had on board, and brought him Provisions in abundance to sell, tho they were forbid doing so on pain of Death; and the Officers themselves conniv’d at it.

He return’d by the way of Cape _Horne_ in 58 deg. 15 min. _January_ 1701. and had as good a Passage and Season as could be desir’d, but saw no Land on either side till the 19_th_ of _January_ 1701. when he discover’d a small Island about 3 or 4 Ls. round, in Lat. 52. odd min. not mark’d in our Maps, with strong Currents near it; and on the 20_th_ he came to the Isle of _Sebald de Wert_, which is a marshy Land with some rocky Mountains, no Trees, but abundance of Sea-Flow.

[Sidenote: _Account of the Straits of Le Maire._]

It is proper here likewise to give an Account of the Straits of _Le Maire_, so call’d from _James Le Maire_ an _Amsterdam_ Merchant, their Discoverer in 1615. They lie in S. Lat. 55. 36. and are form’d by the _Terra del Fuego_ on the West, and an Island by the _Dutch_ call’d _Staten-landt_, or the Country of the States, on the E. The Straits are 8 Leagues wide, with good Roads on each side, and plenty of Fish and Fowl. The Land on both sides is high and mountainous. The Discoverers saw very large Fowls bigger than Sea-Mews, and their Wings when extended above a Fathom long each. They were so tame that they flew into the Ships, and suffer’d the Sailors to handle them. In Lat. 57. they saw two barren Islands, which they call’d _Barnevelt_; and the South Cape of _Terra del Fuego_, which runs out in a Point to Lat. 57. 48. they nam’d Cape _Horne_. Some compute this Strait to be only 5 Leagues in Length.

_Ovalle_[121] says, that in 1619 the King of _Spain_ being inform’d that _Le Maire_ had discover’d these Straits, he sent two Vessels to make a further Discovery of ’em. These Ships came to the East side of the Straits of _Magellan_, where the Crew found a sort of Giants higher by the Head than any _Europeans_, who gave them Gold in exchange for Scissars and other Bawbles; but this can’t be rely’d on. They went thro this Strait in less than a day’s time, it being not above 7 Leagues in length.

I return now to my Journal.

_Jan. 16._ Fresh Gales of Wind with cloudy Weather. These 24 hours we had extraordinary smooth Water, as if we were close under Land: Indifferent warm Weather. Wind from the W S W. to W by N.

_January 20._ Yesterday at three in the Afternoon we saw high Land bearing E by N. dist. about 10 Ls. being the Land about Port _St. Stephen’s_ on the Coast of _Patagonia_ in the _South-Sea_, describ’d in the Draughts. S. Lat. 47.

_Jan. 22._ Fair Weather, with fresh Gales of Wind from W by S. to the W N W. Last night _George Cross_ died; he was a Smith by Trade, and Armourer’s Mate. We and the _Dutchess_ have had a great many Men down with the Cold, and some with the Scurvey; the Distemper that this Man died of. The _Dutchess_ had always more sick Men than we, and have so now: They buried but one Man that died of Sickness, and tell us they hope the rest will recover. We have but one Man whose Life we doubt of, tho most want a Harbour. This day Capt. _Courtney_ and Capt. _Cook_ din’d with us. At two a clock we saw the Land on the Coast of _Patagonia_, being very high, distant about 14 Ls. Lat. 44. 9. S.

_Jan. 26._ Fresh Gales with Clouds and Rain. We spoke with our Consort this day, who complains their Men grow worse and worse, and want a Harbour to refresh ’em; several of ours are also very indifferent, and if we don’t get ashore, and a small Refreshment, we doubt we shall both lose several Men. We are very uncertain of the Latitude and Longitude of _Juan Fernandez_, the Books laying ’em down so differently, that not one Chart agrees with another; and being but a small Island, we are in some doubts of striking it, so design to hale in for the main Land to direct us.

_Jan. 27._ Fair Weather, smooth Water, pleasant Gales of Wind, veerable from the W. to the N W. had a good Amplitude, found the Variation to be 10 deg. Eastward. This is an excellent Climate. Lat. 36. 36. S.

_Jan. 28._ We have had moderate Weather. At six a clock we saw the Land, the Eastermost appearing like an Island, which we agree to be the Island of _St. Mary_ on the Coast of _Chili_: it bore E by N. dist. 9 or 10 Ls. Our Consort’s Men are very ill; their want of Clothes, and being often wet in the cold Weather, has been the greatest cause of their being more sick than our Ships Company.

_Jan. 31._ These 24 hours we had the Wind between the S. and S W by W. At seven this morning we made the Island of _Juan Fernandez_; it bore W S W. dist. about 7 Ls. at Noon W by S. 6 Ls. We had a good Observ. Lat. 34. 10. S.

[Sidenote: _We Make the Isle of Juan Fernandez._]

_February 1._ About two yesterday in the Afternoon we hoisted our Pinnace out; Capt _Dover_ with the Boats Crew went in her to go ashore, tho we could not be less than 4 Ls. off. As soon as the Pinnace was gone, I went on board the _Dutchess_, who admir’d our Boat attempted going ashore at that distance from Land: ’twas against my Inclination, but to oblige Capt. _Dover_ I consented to let her go. As soon as it was dark, we saw a Light ashore; our Boat was then about a League from the Island, and bore away for the Ships as soon as she saw the Lights. We put out Lights abroad for the Boat, tho some were of opinion the Lights we saw were our Boats Lights; but as Night came on, it appear’d too large for that. We fir’d one Quarter-Deck Gun and several Muskets, showing Lights in our Mizen and Fore-Shrouds, that our Boat might find us, whilst we ply’d in the Lee of the Island. About two in the Morning our Boat came on board, having been two hours on board the _Dutchess_, that took ’em up a-stern of us: we-were glad they got well off, because it begun to blow. We are all convinc’d the Light is on the shore, and design to make our Ships ready to engage, believing them to be _French_ Ships at anchor, and we must either fight ’em or want Water, _etc._

_Febr. 2._ We stood on the back side along the South end of the Island, in order to lay in with the first Southerly Wind, which Capt. _Dampier_ told us generally blows there all day long. In the Morning, being past the Island, we tack’d to lay it in close aboard the Land; and about ten a clock open’d the South End of the Island, and ran close aboard the Land that begins to make the North-East side. The Flaws[122] came heavy off shore, and we-were forc’d to reef our Top-sails when we open’d the middle Bay, where we expected to find our Enemy, but saw all clear, and no Ships in that nor the other Bay next the N W. End. These two Bays are all that Ships ride in which recruit on this Island, but the middle Bay is by much the best. We guess’d there had been Ships there, but that they were gone on sight of us. We sent our Yall ashore about Noon, with Capt. _Dover_, Mr. _Frye_, and six Men, all arm’d; mean while we and the _Dutchess_ kept turning to get in, and such heavy Flaws came off the Land, that we were forc’d to let fly our Topsail-Sheet, keeping all Hands to stand by our Sails, for fear of the Wind’s carrying ’em away: but when the Flaws were gone, we had little or no Wind. These Flaws proceeded from the Land, which is very high in the middle of the Island. Our Boat did not return, so we sent our Pinnace with the Men arm’d, to see what was the occasion of the Yall’s stay; for we were afraid that the _Spaniards_ had a Garison there, and might have seiz’d ’em. We put out a Signal for our Boat, and the _Dutchess_ show’d a _French_ Ensign. Immediately our Pinnace returned from the shore, and brought abundance of Craw-fish, with a Man cloth’d in Goat-Skins, who look’d wilder than the first Owners of them. He had been on the Island four Years and four Months, being left there by Capt. _Stradling_ in the _Cinque-Ports_; his Name was _Alexander Selkirk_ a _Scotch_ Man, who had been Master of the _Cinque-Ports_, a Ship that came here last with Capt. _Dampier_, who told me that this was the best Man in her; so I immediately agreed with him to be a Mate on board our Ship. ’Twas he that made the Fire last night when he saw our Ships, which he judg’d to be _English_. During his stay here, he saw several Ships pass by, but only two came in to anchor. As he went to view them, he found ’em to be _Spaniards_, and retir’d from ’em; upon which they shot at him. Had they been _French_, he would have submitted; but chose to risque his dying alone on the Island, rather than fall into the hands of the _Spaniards_ in these parts, because he apprehended they would murder him, or make a Slave of him in the Mines, for he fear’d they would spare no Stranger that might be capable of discovering the _South-Sea_. The _Spaniards_ had landed, before he knew what they were, and they came so near him that he had much ado to escape; for they not only shot at him but pursu’d him into the Woods, where he climb’d to the top of a Tree, at the foot of which they made water, and kill’d several Goats just by, but went off again without discovering him. He told us that he was born at _Largo_ in the County of _Fife_ in _Scotland_, and was bred a Sailor from his Youth. The reason of his being left here was a difference betwixt him and his Captain; which, together with the Ships being leaky, made him willing rather to stay here, than go along with him at first; and when he was at last willing, the Captain would not receive him. He had been in the Island before to wood and water, when two of the Ships Company were left upon it for six Months till the Ship return’d, being chas’d thence by two _French South-Sea_ Ships.

[Sidenote: _Account of Alexander Selkirk._]

He had with him his Clothes and Bedding, with a Firelock, some Powder, Bullets, and Tobacco, a Hatchet, a Knife, a Kettle, a Bible, some practical Pieces, and his Mathematical Instruments and Books. He diverted and provided for himself as well as he could; but for the first eight months had much ado to bear up against Melancholy, and the Terror of being left alone in such a desolate place. He built two Hutts with Piemento Trees, cover’d them with long Grass, and lin’d them with the Skins of Goats, which he kill’d with his Gun as he wanted, so long as his Powder lasted, which was but a pound; and that being near spent, he got fire by rubbing two sticks of Piemento Wood together upon his knee. In the lesser Hutt, at some distance from the other, he dress’d his Victuals, and in the larger he slept, and employ’d himself in reading, singing Psalms, and praying; so that he said he was a better Christian while in this Solitude than ever he was before, or than, he was afraid, he should ever be again. At first he never eat any thing till Hunger constrain’d him, partly for grief and partly for want of Bread and Salt; nor did he go to bed till he could watch no longer: the Piemento Wood, which burnt very clear, serv’d him both for Firing and Candle, and refresh’d him with its fragrant Smell.

He might have had Fish enough, but could not eat ’em for want of Salt, because they occasion’d a Looseness; except Crawfish, which are there as large as our Lobsters, and very good: These he sometimes boil’d, and at other times broil’d, as he did his Goats Flesh, of which he made very good Broth, for they are not so rank as ours: he kept an Account of 500 that he kill’d while there, and caught as many more, which he mark’d on the Ear and let go. When his Powder fail’d, he took them by speed of foot; for his way of living and continual Exercise of walking and running, clear’d him of all gross Humours, so that he ran with wonderful Swiftness thro the Woods and up the Rocks and Hills, as we perceiv’d when we employ’d him to catch Goats for us. We had a Bull-Dog, which we sent with several of our nimblest Runners, to help him in catching Goats; but he distanc’d and tir’d both the Dog and the Men, catch’d the Goats, and brought ’em to us on his back. He told us that his Agility in pursuing a Goat had once like to have cost him his Life; he pursu’d it with so much Eagerness that he catch’d hold of it on the brink of a Precipice, of which he was not aware, the Bushes having hid it from him; so that he fell with the Goat down the said Precipice a great height, and was so stun’d and bruis’d with the Fall, that he narrowly escap’d with his Life, and when he came to his Senses, found the Goat dead under him. He lay there about 24 hours, and was scarce able to crawl to his Hutt, which was about a mile distant, or to stir abroad again in ten days.

He came at last to relish his Meat well enough without Salt or Bread, and in the Season had plenty of good Turnips, which had been sow’d there by Capt. _Dampier_’s Men, and have now overspread some Acres of Ground. He had enough of good Cabbage from the Cabbage-Trees, and season’d his Meat with the Fruit of the Piemento Trees, which is the same as the _Jamaica_ Pepper, and smells deliciously. He found there also a black Pepper call’d _Malagita_, which was very good to expel Wind, and against Griping of the Guts.

He soon wore out all his Shoes and Clothes by running thro the Woods; and at last being forc’d to shift without them, his Feet became so hard, that he run every where without Annoyance: and it was some time before he could wear Shoes after we found him; for not being us’d to any so long, his Feet swell’d when he came first to wear ’em again.