Part 1

NOTES ON THE WEST INDIES, INCLUDING OBSERVATIONS RELATIVE TO THE CREOLES AND SLAVES OF THE =Western Colonies,= AND _THE INDIANS OF SOUTH AMERICA_; INTERSPERSED WITH REMARKS UPON THE SEASONING OR YELLOW FEVER OF HOT CLIMATES.

SECOND EDITION,

_With additional Letters from Martinique, Jamaica, and St. Domingo_.

BY GEORGE PINCKARD, M. D.

Of the Royal College of Physicians, Deputy Inspector-General of Hospitals to His Majesty’s Forces, Physician to the Bloomsbury Dispensary, The London Female Penitentiary, &c.

IN TWO VOLUMES.

VOL. I.

It is a strange thing, that in sea voyages, where there is nothing to be seene but sky and sea, men should make diaries; but in land trauaile, wherin so much is to bee obserued, for the most part they omit it, as if chance were fitter to bee registered than obseruation.

LORD VERULAM.

_LONDON_:

PUBLISHED BY MESSRS. BALDWIN, CRADOCK, AND JOY, PATERNOSTER ROW;

AND L. B. SEELEY, FLEET STREET.

1816.

PREFACE.

From the entreaties of a Friend the following “Notes” were written for his private eye:—from the solicitations of other friends they are now offered to the eye of the Public. The former were tender persuasions, and, in obeying them, the author had much and sincere gratification: he wishes he could feel as well assured that he is pursuing the path of wisdom, by yielding to the latter. But he is sensible that what may be amusing, or may be deemed even valuable, in the closet of friendship, may be very unfit to meet the less-prejudiced judgment of the world; and he is not without many apprehensions, lest a flattering partiality—a partiality which often deals praise, where no merit is due, should have induced him to present to the Public, that which ought never to have escaped beyond the limits of private perusal.

Conscious how little his “Notes” are calculated to withstand the scrutinizing severity of criticism, he may observe that, at no time, during the period of writing them, had he a thought that they were destined to appear at the bar of the Public. To fulfil the wishes of one, whose sentiments and opinions were dear to him, was a grateful task: it was congenial to his feelings, and, regardless of studied rules, he performed it with all the freedom of familiar intercourse. He devoted to his friend, daily, the few last minutes before retiring to his pillow; whence it happened that his remarks were, often, traced with a drowsy pen, or hurried over with a wearied and reluctant arm: but, from adopting this habit, the busy occupation of the day suffered no interruption; all the occurrences were noted, whilst they were strongly alive in the memory; and those who have known the privation of a long and perilous absence from their home, and the objects of their esteem, will comprehend the many happy associations, which were, thus, brought to sweeten the hours of repose.

At the time of the author’s arrival in the West Indies, every thing, in the tropical regions, was new to him. He was desirous of obtaining information, and without waiting to digest his remarks into a systematic train; to stamp them with the importance of method; or to improve them by more mature observation, he endeavoured to convey, to his friend, a correct representation of the feelings impressed upon his mind, by the novel scenes around him, before habit and familiarity had weakened their effect.

He fears that the frequent repetitions, necessary to this mode of communication, will be found to be more tedious, and, in some instances, even more multiplied than a “thrice told tale;” but he saw no way of avoiding them, without altering the whole plan of the work, and depriving it of the only merit, which he feels it has any title to claim, viz. that of giving the occurrences, precisely as they passed before the eye. He was not engaged in a deliberate voyage of discovery; nor did the busy and anxious duties of his appointment allow him time for pursuits of minute investigation. The utmost he could hope was to catch events as they passed, and faithfully note them from the impression of the fleeting moment. If it should be objected to him that the remarks are not always of high importance, he would observe that it is not from great occurrences, alone, that a correct judgment is formed of men and things: it is more from the daily, common round, than from the great and blazoned events, that a just knowledge is acquired of the characters of individuals:—perhaps, also, of empires, nations, and colonies.

ADVERTISEMENT TO THE SECOND EDITION.

In presenting the former edition of the following “Notes” to the Public, the author explained that they were collected, from fleeting events, during a series of professional duties, which offered only short intervals of leisure and repose, and that they were originally intended only for the gratification of a private circle. He expressed, likewise, his apprehensions respecting their being submitted to general scrutiny, and the severity of criticism. He has now the satisfaction of remarking, that the public reception of the first impression has been more encouraging than he had allowed himself to expect. For several years past the book has been out of print, and, during this period, multiplied applications have been made, requesting the author to prepare a new edition.

In complying with these entreaties, he has been anxiously desirous of rendering the present pages more worthy of general attention: and with this view, he has availed himself of such candid and manly criticisms, as appeared to have arisen from a fair and liberal examination of the work.

Not only have those parts of the former edition, which were deemed irrelevant, been removed, and others, which appeared diffuse, condensed, but a considerable proportion of new matter, respecting the Islands of Martinique, Jamaica, and St. Domingo, as well as upon the subject of slavery in general, has been introduced. In order to accomplish this object, without increasing the bulk of the volumes, the author has found it necessary to have frequent recourse to abridgment, and even to the omission of whole pages, where the subject was of minor importance.

These extensive alterations and additions have been made with as much care as the various avocations of the author allowed him to bestow: still, he cannot but regret that the imperious duties of a professional life have not only considerably delayed the appearance of the present edition; but have prevented that minute and attentive revision which he wished it to receive.

BLOOMSBURY SQUARE, _April, 1816_.

CONTENTS OF THE FIRST VOLUME.

LETTER I. _Remarks on epistolary correspondence. Explanation why the author’s narrative cannot be regular. Journey to Southampton. Author attends at head quarters:—at the military hospital_ Page 1

LETTER II. _Visit to the encampment near Southampton. Reflections upon the occasion. Discouraging remarks of the spectators. Author’s probable destination. Policy of yielding to passing occurrences. Frivolity of the French character:—contrasted with the gloomy dispositions of the English_ 5

LETTER III. _Description of Portsmouth. Picture of a Portsmouth Cyprian. Visit to the dock-yard, and to the Tigre ship of war. Haslar Hospital:—its excellent establishment_ 13

LETTER IV. _Author detained at Portsmouth. Weather tempestuous_ 23

LETTER V. _Author and his comrades joined by Dr. Cleghorn. Visit to Forton prison. Example of the vicissitudes of war_ 27

LETTER VI. _Author goes on board the Ulysses, accompanied by Drs. Henderson, Master, and Cleghorn. Embarkation scene at Portsmouth. Accommodations of the Ulysses_ 29

LETTER VII. _Sailing of the Leeward Island division. The Ulysses left to join the Cork convoy. Firing of the ship’s cannon_ 36

LETTER VIII. _Author detained at Spithead. The convoy dispersed by a tremendous gale:—returns to Spithead. Many ships lost. The “Stanley” transport, with troops, supposed to be of the number. Effects of the storm upon the Ulysses. Author’s sickness. Coarse jokes of the sailors_ 40

LETTER IX. _The Ulysses destined to proceed, with troops, to the West Indies. Author and comrades separated. Dr. Master and the author appointed to embark on board the Lord Sheffield. Further effects of the gale_ 45

LETTER X. _Author’s perilous passage to the Mother-bank. His reception on board the Diana frigate. Hospitality of Lieutenant Davy, and the other officers. Author proceeds to the Lord Sheffield. Character and appearance of that ship_ 48

LETTER XI. _Unsettled state of the author. Visit to the “Commercé de Marseilles.” Dr. Cleghorn joins the mess on board the Lord Sheffield. Signal for departure_ 54

LETTER XII. _Lord Sheffield at sea. Grand spectacle formed by the sailing of the convoy. Alternate hopes and apprehensions. Ceremony of fixing the “dead-lights” at sea. Fleet collected and again dispersed. Distress on witnessing the awful situation of a neighbouring ship. Separation of the Lord Sheffield from the convoy. Carlisle Bay the rendezvous of the fleet_ 56

LETTER XIII. _Author still at sea. Cruel succession of storms. Contrast between the effects of a gale on the minds of landsmen and of sailors. Sang froid of the steward. Description of a cabin dinner at sea. The Lord Sheffield passes the Azores_ 65

LETTER XIV. _Arrival of the Lord Sheffield in Carlisle Bay. Improved sailing towards the conclusion of the voyage. Trade-wind welcomed. Advantages of bathing in a tropical climate. “Prickly heat.” First tidings of land being in sight. Coasting view of Barbadoes. Entrance of Carlisle Bay. Description of the harbour_ 75

LETTER XV. _Process of cleaning and ornamenting the ship at sea. Every sailor’s vessel “the best in the world.” Ceremony at crossing the tropic. Porpoises. Mode of catching sharks. Description of the flying fish. Temperature of the weather. Phenomenon of lights round the vessel at night. Appearance of the rising and setting sun_ 84

LETTER XVI. _Anxiety for news. French privateering. St. Vincent saved from the Charibs. Happy feeling on going on shore. Visit to a North American slave-ship. Situation of the slaves. Visit to a Liverpool Guinea-man_ 97

LETTER XVII. _Description of a West Indian tavern. Mode of cooling wine. Attendants of the table. The hostess. Interesting demeanour of the bar-maid. Conversation of two negro girls_ 110

LETTER XVIII. _Inactivity of the Barbadians. A gang of negroes. Indecencies of the slaves. Baneful effect of such scenes upon European modesty. Fight between two female slaves_ 121

LETTER XIX. _Sabbath festivities of the slaves. Their music:—mode of dancing. A negro funeral. Consequences of a belief in the doctrine of transmigration. Stratagem of a slave-master to prevent suicide_ 126

LETTER XX. _Author’s introduction to the principal inhabitants of Barbadoes. Visit of an European party at Dr. Hinde’s. Views of the country. Inspection of the sugar and distilling houses. The party attended by slaves, as running footmen. Degrading scene of female slavery. Effects of the manchineel apple. Description of a negro-yard. Accommodations of its inhabitants. Their comparative happiness. Washing process_ 135

LETTER XXI. _Visit to Col. Williams’s. Nature of the soil near Bridge-town. Picturesque scenery of the part of the island called Scotland. A boiling spring. Natural separation of petroleum. Mode of collecting it. Grandeur of the cabbage tree. Mount Hilloughby:—view from its summit. The runaway estate. Delicious refreshment in a valley of fruits. Dinner-party under the “social rock.” Tropical fruits. Examples of art rivalling nature_ 147

LETTER XXII. _Convoy still delayed. Alarm in Carlisle Bay. Oars employed as sails. Adroitness of negroes in using the oar. The trade of book-binder unknown at Barbadoes_ 166

LETTER XXIII. _A marooning expedition. Visit to “Harrison’s Cave.” “Joe’s River” Estate. Hospitalities at the “Bay-house.” Description of the “Animal flower.” “Hackleton’s Cliff.” Visit at the Colleton estate. The Barbadoes, or Codrington college. Mode of claying sugar. Visit at “Clarke’s Court”—“Kendall,” “Drax-hall,” and “Spendlove” estates. Happy situation of Mr. Waith’s slaves. Their gratitude. Picture of a negro-yard. Character of Mr. Waith. Visit to Mr. Elcock’s. Disappointment regarding his botanical collection_ 172

LETTER XXIV. _The convoy still absent. Unpleasant tidings from Grenada. A French negro corps. State of the weather. Temporary hospitals, and preparations for the sick at St. Anne’s Hill. Appearance of a coco-nut grove by moon-light_ 206

LETTER XXV. _State of the healing art at Barbadoes: ignorance of some of its practitioners: qualifications necessary in a tropical climate: apathy respecting illiterate pretenders. Description of a cotton-mill. Mode of carrying children in Barbadoes. Wanton cruelty towards a slave_ 212

LETTER XXVI. _Part of the fleet safe in Carlisle Bay. Press-gangs visit the transports. Proceedings of one of these bodies on board the Lord Sheffield_ 219

LETTER XXVII. _Visit to the Senate-house. Proceedings of the General Assembly of the island. Dinner-party on board the Lord Sheffield. Escape of a prisoner from Guadaloupe. Victor Hugues. Prevalence of virtue, a test of good government_ 223

LETTER XXVIII. _Arrival of a packet from England. Eagerness to ascertain the news. Ordinary comforts improved by absence and privations. Forlorn state of the expedition. Unfavorable reports from Grenada and St. Vincent. Arrival of Sir Ralph Abercromby:—its effects. Cork fleet at sea. Uncertainties of a sea voyage. Arrival of the General Cuyler after imminent perils. Dutch mode of punishment. Horrors excited by a leaky ship_ 228

LETTER XXIX. _Arrival of vessels of the Cork division. Visit to the “Venus” slave-ship. The tamarind tree_ 244

LETTER XXX. _Author waits on the Commander in Chief. Voyage to St. Domingo postponed. Author hitherto unaffected by climate. Proposed tontine. Physicians of the St. Domingo staff placed on duty. Sickness prevalent—especially in the vessels of the Cork division. East India ships unfit for transports. Slaves more healthy in the Guinea ships. Weather hot and oppressive_ 249

LETTER XXXI. _More disappointments. Arrival of a fleet of merchantmen. Character and adventure of poor Mac—_ 257

LETTER XXXII. _Arrival of the body of the Cork fleet. Acuteness of sailors in observing distant objects. Effects of a tropical climate on the human system:—Brunonian illustration. Influence of climate on a phlegmatic Dutchman_ 264

LETTER XXXIII. _The chigoe. African mode of extracting it. Indolent labour of slaves. Unmerited severity towards one of them_ 269

LETTER XXXIV. _General observations concerning Barbadoes. Its importance, in the opinion of its inhabitants. Its ample supply of stock. Languid pronunciation of the Creoles. First party of slaves seen by the author. State of the negroes. Account of the elephantiasis, or “Barbadoes disease.” Titles of the estates. Cottages of white inhabitants. Their habits, persons, and complexions. Argument against the doctrine of conversion. Ignorance respecting the Portsmouth convoy. Physicians of the St. Domingo staff left on duty at Barbadoes. Number of sick. Case of yellow fever_ 275

LETTER XXXV. _Rumours of an approaching expedition. Fondness of the negroes for the water. Their expertness in that element. Their cleanliness_ 317

LETTER XXXVI. _Author detached on secret service. Embarks on board the Grenada transport. Crowded state of the ship. Means used to prevent disease. Strength of the expedition. It passes to the south of the sun_ 320

LETTER XXXVII. _Destination of the expedition. Indications on approaching the shores of Guiana. Preparations for debarkation_ 326

LETTER XXXVIII. _The troops proceed on shore. Vexatious delays and disappointments. Capitulation of Fort William Frederic. Sickness of the troops. Influence of martial preparations upon the soldiers. General aspect of the colony, and of the town of Stabroek. Author seeks accommodations for the sick_ 328

LETTER XXXIX. _Expedition against Berbische. Scarcity of animal provisions. Zeal of an infuriated republican. Healthy appearance of the colonists. Refutation of the alleged insalubrity of Guiana. Visit to a coffee plantation. Gratifications in a tropical country counteracted by climate. Fruit given to the sick. Sale of negroes. Hospitality of the colonists. Author entreated by a female slave to purchase her. Corporal punishment of slaves. Barbarous exultation of a white female. Author’s chance of prize-money_ 335

LETTER XL. _Barbadoes the “London” of the windward colonies. Admiral Christian’s arrival. Wet season at Stabroek. Negroes employed to cut grass for sale. Cruel punishment of a slave. Visit to “Arcadia.” Happy condition of Mr. Dougan’s slaves at “Profit.” Musquitoes and fire-flies_ 346

LETTER XLI. _Capitulation of Berbische. Intended negro corps. Critical situation of the colony. Scarcity of animal provisions. Liberality of colonists to the sick. Description of a regular sale of negroes. Case of yellow fever, with appearances on examination. Its appellation inaccurate_ 356

LETTER XLII. _Author remains in Guiana. General Whyte considerate towards the sick—Colonel Hislop likewise. Military Hospital at La Bourgade. Singular request of a colonial lady. Account of the Bush-negroes. Means employed to subdue them. Sagacity of the Indians. Severities inflicted on the prisoners. Heroic fortitude of Amsterdam, one of their leaders_ 366

LETTER XLIII. _Accommodations of the medical officers. Visit from a naval party. Attempts to procure animal provisions. Hospitality of Capt. Dougan. Author’s rest at La Bourgade undisturbed by musquitoes. State of the thermometer_ 380

LETTER XLIV. _Further examples of yellow fever. Execution of a captain of the Bush-negroes. Public punishment of slaves. Flagrant injustice towards a negro carpenter_ 386

LETTER XLV. _Author’s voyage to Berbische. Miserable accommodations of the Voltigeur_ 395

LETTER XLVI. _Situation of Fort St. Andrew. Town of New Amsterdam. State of the colony. Accommodations for the sick. Author joins the mess of the 93d regiment. Excellent discipline maintained by Col. Gammell_ 422

LETTER XLVII. _A Dutch sale of slaves:—a gala-day for the colonists. Affecting conduct of a negro about to be separated from his wife. A party of Indians. People from the woods employed to fell timber. An Indian family_ 429

LETTER XLVIII. _Hospitality of the Governor and Madame Van Battenburg. Visit to Mynheer Ongre’s plantation. Celebration of His Majesty’s birth-day. Report of the cannon through the deep woods_ 439

LETTER XLIX. _Surrender of St. Lucie. Sudden effect of a coup de soleil. Rapid fatality in a case of yellow fever. Alligators at Fort St. Andrew. Fête of the slaves at Government-house. Bacchanalian conduct of a party of officers. Proofs of the Governor’s knowledge of the English language. Madame Van Battenburg. Sumptuous entertainment at Mr. Blair’s. Unusual domestic supply at his plantation. Visit to the yaw-house. Treatment employed in this odious distemper_ 443

LETTER L. _Influence of the will in subduing difficulties. A marooning expedition up the river Berbische. Plantation “Het Pleytanker”—“Essendam.” Hospitality of Mynheer Abbensets_ 459

LETTER LI. _Marooning excursion continued. The party receive intelligence concerning their route from Mr. Schneider. Plantation “Vigilantie.” Severe labour supported by the slaves. Their mode of refreshing themselves. Visit to the negro-yard at Vigilantie. Example of the immoral effect of slavery. Singular mode of punishment. Visit to le vieux Fiscal, and Mynheer Scholten at Old Amsterdam. Anti-orange sentiments of le vieux Fiscal_ 466

LETTER LII. _Mynheer and Madame Scholten. Town of Old Amsterdam. Visit to the dwellings of a party of Indians—and of manumitted negro women. Dutch example of the united profession of surgeon-barber. Estate “Johanna.” Its productive garden. Singular appearance of a party ginning cotton_ 473

LETTER LIII. _Journey over-land to Arends. Pleasing echo in the woods. Apprehensions on account of the Bush-negroes. Picturesque appearance of the travelling party and their slaves. Hospitality and politeness of Mynheer Paùels. Arrival at Mynheer Heynemann’s the Dutch post-holder, and captain of the Indians. His household_ 480

LETTER LIV. _Occupations of the morning at Mr. Heynemann’s. Indians termed Bucks and Buckeen. Description of their common bow and arrow, and the poisoned arrow. Account of the poison. Journey to Savonette. Visit at an Indian hut in the night. Vandyke, the deputy post-holder. Accommodations at Savonette_ 486

LETTER LV. _Visit to an Indian town. Nonchalance of the inhabitants. The Laba. Parental feeling of an Indian woman. Fate of a youthful Indian lover. Habits of the Indians. Construction of their dwellings. Pyeis and yowahoos. Visit to a huge tonquin-bean tree. The Kiwihi. Return of the party to Mr. Heynemann’s, and to Arends_ 497

LETTER LVI. _Generous attention of Mynheer Heynemann: his duty as post-holder—his character—elected a chief among the Indians. General account of the native inhabitants of Guiana:—contrasted with the Africans. Indian apparel. The “Kway”_ 510

LETTER LVII. _Indian practice of eradicating hair from the person. Indolence and apathy of the people of the forest:—method observed in their intoxication:—arbitrary and despotic towards their females. Polygamy practised. Indians usually enbonpoint. Obesity the effect of inaction, or indulgence in eating. Grotesque appearance of the party journeying back to “Johanna.” An Indian village. Miserable state of a diseased woman. “Helvetia”—Hospitality of Mynheer Freinde. The party fanned by slaves, during dinner, at Johanna. Renewed visit to M. Scholten, and le vieux Fiscal. “Daargradt,” one of the prize-estates. Musquitoes_ 518

LETTER LVIII. _The party continue their journey down the river. Friendly attention of Mynheer Abbensets. Habit of smoking. Annoyance from musquitoes. Return to New Amsterdam. Retrospect of the expedition. General reflections upon the scenery, mode of travelling, &c. &c. Singular example of West Indian complaisance_ 530

ERRATUM.

Page 22, line 1, _for_ Colbert, _read_, Cohorn.

NOTES, _&c._

LETTER I.

Southampton, Oct. 3, 1795.

The happiness we enjoy by corresponding with those whom we esteem, when separated from them, beyond the reach of personal intercourse, ranks amongst the highest blessings of civilized life. It is to navigation and the art of writing, those powerful engines which have established a freedom of intercourse throughout the wide extent of the globe, that we are indebted for the enjoyment of communicating with far distant friends, and thereby rendering our separation less intolerable.

But you will too soon discover how much you have sacrificed your judgment to your feelings, in so strenuously requiring frequent communications, from me, during my absence from England. In the correspondence which your kindness has exacted, you will have to encounter a task, while all the advantages of amusement and instruction will be mine. Still, as you have brought it upon yourself, you must be content to see me your debtor, assured of my regret that the benefit, to be derived, cannot be reciprocal. Did I even possess all the glowing and happy talents necessary to descriptive narration, the busy employment of my time, and the unsettled state of my mind, amidst the perpetual hurry and uncertainty of military movements, must prevent me from observing, and still more from relating what may pass before me, with accuracy; and from being unable to mature my remarks by the recurrent eye of a continued residence, they will necessarily be superficial and undigested.

You can only expect the perusal of hasty notes, hastily collected, by an observer whose time must be devoted to the duties of his appointment; and whose movements and pauses must be regulated by those exigencies of the army which more imperiously demand his attention.

But it were needless to enter into a detail of the allowances you will have to make. You already know them: hence, as apologies are irksome to you, I forego all further comment, and, meeting you as you desire, proceed to my subject.

The adventures of a stage-coach are sometimes amusing, but it happened that my journey, hither, was peculiarly devoid of incident, being, merely, a dark nocturnal ride, without any thing to divert, or to interest.

Amidst the stillness of night we rolled swiftly on, without impediment or delay, always finding horses in readiness at the place of change. Even the great business of eating and drinking was more than commonly disregarded. No social hour of supper was observed: nor were our conductors troubled with those frequent calls of thirst, which are, commonly, so vexatious and annoying to the passengers. To reach the end of the journey seemed alike the object of all.

We arrived at an early hour, and after taking the refreshment of a cold ablution, and a plentiful breakfast, I proceeded, without delay, to head quarters, to pay my respects to the commander in chief. It happened that the inspector-general of hospitals was with Sir Ralph Abercromby, at the time: I, therefore, reported my appointment to both; and put myself under command.