Part 27

Thus equipped, we embarked on the morning of Wednesday, June 15, from the town of New Amsterdam. We ordered the most intelligent of the negroes to assume the post of cockswain, and putting the others to the oars, took our departure without having decided where to make even our first place of call. Rich estates, commodious houses, and hospitable planters, were not deficient about this part of the river; and as we had adopted the principle of seeking a home, wheresoever we should find it most convenient, we resigned ourselves to the discretion of the slaves, desiring them to make a port whenever they might feel themselves fatigued, or should find the tide impede their progress. It happened that they took us on shore, about two o’clock, at a plantation called “Het Pleytanker.” We advanced to the house, without hesitation, and introduced ourselves by observing that we were engaged in an excursion up the river, and had put in for the purpose of resting the slaves; and of learning where we might conveniently take up our quarters for the night. We were received with great cordiality by M. Deen, the manager, who insisted upon our having dinner before we proceeded further. At table we met a Dutch gentleman, named Abbensets, who very kindly invited us to accompany him to the plantation “Essendam,” where he was pleased to say he should be happy to accommodate us not only for the night, but for the morrow, and as long as we could make it convenient to give him our company. We hailed this as a fortunate rencontre, as it augured favorably respecting the hospitality we might require at the various plantations in the course of our journey. We partook of a very good dinner at Het Pleytanker, and, soon afterwards, availing ourselves of the tide, accompanied M. Abbensets to Essendam, which we found to be one of the richest coffee plantations of the colony. The house bespeaks the value of the estate, being a spacious building, much superior to any we had seen in Berbische, except the governor’s mansion. Nothing could exceed the kindness and liberality of M. Abbensets. He entertained us with all the cordiality of a friend, and we lamented that, from speaking a different language, we were deprived of the full enjoyment of his society. M. Abbensets knew only his native tongue, therefore, in conversing with him, we were obliged to speak in French through the medium of a Mynheer Wohler, a Hanoverian surgeon, to whom we were presented on our arrival at Essendam, and who, very obligingly, undertook the office of interpreter to both parties. On account of my being a medical man, and having some knowledge of the Dutch language, M. Wohler mostly addressed himself to me in conversation: as a professional brother, I was likewise honored with further attentions, and invited to accompany him in a ride round the estate; for which purpose he ordered a very excellent horse to be saddled and brought to the door; accordingly, leaving the other gentlemen to converse by signs with M. Abbensets, we made the tour, not only of Essendam, but also of _Sans Souci_, the adjoining plantation under the management of M. J. Abbensets, nephew of Mynheer Abbensets of Essendam. Green paths, bordered with luxuriant fruit-trees, traverse these estates at various parts, and while they form pleasant rides, give a general air of neatness, and add to the richness conveyed by the fertile coffee-bushes which spread the fields.

On our arrival at Essendam we were served with tea and coffee, and at nine o’clock was set before us a handsome supper of soup, fowls, omelet, and many other good things. Madeira and claret wines were amply supplied, also Hollands, bottled small beer and porter. At eleven we went to our hammocks, congratulating each other on the success of our first day’s adventure.

Our intrusions were not barely permitted, but we were treated with the most unaffected hospitality, and, in the kind attentions of those we visited, we could discover that genuine welcome, which seeks to make the stranger feel that in giving his company an obligation is conferred—not received.

LETTER LI.

Berbische.

We left Essendam early the following morning, but not without receiving additional proofs of attention from Mynheer Abbensets, who kindly intreated us to lengthen our present visit, and invited us to make his house our home, and remain longer with him on our return. In all the generosity of his character he ordered some bottles of wine, and a store of provisions to be put into the boat for our use, en route; and, likewise, supplied the negroes with a fresh stock of Hollands and of plantains. According to the Dutch custom, coffee had been served to us as soon as we rose from our hammocks, but we reserved ourselves for a more solid breakfast at our next place of call.

This was at one of the sugar plantations of Mr. Blair, on the border of the river, nearly opposite to Essendam. Here again warm greetings met us at the landing-place. M. Schneider, who has the management of the estate, received us with a most friendly welcome; and a breakfast of fowls, eggs, and other solids was, presently, set before us. We found M. Schneider a very intelligent man, and acquired more information from him respecting our journey, than from any other person. He had made a similar excursion; but to a far greater extent than we could possibly follow him, he having gone many hundred miles up the river. He was equipped for the purpose, and attended by a party of Indians as conductors, together with a young Indian girl, who had resided among the colonists, as interpreter.

The tide serving for us to proceed, we were compelled to make our visit at M. Schneider’s much shorter than we could have wished; we had therefore barely time to take our breakfast, and accompany the manager in a short walk about the estate, in order to see the sugar-works, some fine trees of the mango, and a young plantation of the bread-fruit. At ten o’clock we resumed our seats in the boat, when M. Schneider kindly desired to contribute to our store, some bread, and some rum. We also discovered that he had sent on board, without our knowledge, half a dozen bottles of very fine porter, of which he had observed us to partake, with great enjoyment, at our second breakfast. Instructed by M. Schneider, we were to make our next home at Vigilantie, where we arrived at seven o’clock in the evening. This was a severe day for the slaves. Indeed they were exposed to far more of labour and exertion than we should have required of them, but from their own consent to the proposal of M. Schneider; who, assuring us that they were fully competent to the toil, asked if they could row to Vigilantie that evening? They replied in the affirmative, and cheerfully executed the task, arriving in high spirits, and smiling when we asked them if they were not sadly tired. Except the short time we remained with M. Schneider, we were in the boat from half past eight in the morning until seven in the evening. That even negroes could support so many hours of heavy and incessant labour in such a climate was past our conjecture. The only relief they required was to rest, occasionally, for a few minutes, upon their oars; at which intervals, although extremely heated, and bathed in perspiration, they plunged from the side of the boat into the river, and swam about in order to cool themselves, and drive away fatigue. Hazardous as this might seem, they did not suffer the slightest inconvenience from it, but returned to their oars with renewed spirit and vigour, feeling more refreshed, and more delighted with their bathing than with their food, or even their beloved grog, which we gave them in very plentiful supply.

The borders of the river offered but little to arrest our attention or to gratify our curiosity, so that we were in danger of suffering more fatigue from our wearisome confinement, in the boat, than the negroes did from the heavier labour of pulling the oars.

We were received with great kindness, and entertained with much cordiality, by M. Malsted, but unluckily no person at Vigilantie understood any other than the Dutch language; our conversation was therefore very limited, being carried on only by signs and broken words. The task of interpreter fell to the lot of your friend, and you would have been highly diverted could you have seen him occupied throughout the evening in repeating a few words of bad Dutch to serve all purposes, and explain for all parties.

Desirous to know the mode of life, and to observe the habitations of the slaves, as well as of their masters, I did not neglect to make visits to the different negro-yards at our various places of call. Pursuant to this custom, soon after my arrival at Vigilantie, I took with me one of the house negroes, as conductor, and went to view the huts of the slaves. In one of them my ebon guide, with great form, begged to introduce me to a very fine negress, his sister. I dare not tell you what soft overtures were made by this young lady, on my having the honor of being presented to her. But, to convey kind hints, seemed equally the object of brother and sister. I mention this fact only to show you in what light prostitution is viewed by slaves—the brother would feel honored in placing the pillow, for his sister, on a _backra_ man’s bed!

In my walk to the negro-yard I met a slave who appeared under a peculiar mode of punishment, being compelled to wear an iron collar with three long spikes projecting from it, in sharpened points, to the distance of eight or ten inches from his person. What crime had led to this strange method of punishment I did not learn. The poor man not only suffered the annoyance of moving about, loaded with this heavy collar, but he was effectually prevented from lying down, and from approaching near to any person without the danger of injuring him with the sharp points of his iron yoke.

The house at Vigilantie was very inferior to that at Essendam, but we found in it good fare, and an honest welcome. Fowls, milk, rice, eggs, and various other dishes, were set before us for supper; and we had afterwards some very fine Hollands; but as my bad Dutch gave no charms to conversation, we retired at an early hour to our hammocks.

The following day was far less fatiguing to us: although equally busy, it was broken into more varied succession. We went into the boat between three and four o’clock in the morning, in order to avail ourselves of the tide, so as to reach the old town of Amsterdam before breakfast. We accordingly arrived at seven, in time to take coffee with Mynheer ——, le vieux fiscal, with whom we afterwards shared a more solid breakfast à la Hollandoise. Our visit was divided between _the fiscal_, and _the doctor_ (M. Scholten), both of whom received us with great urbanity, and invited us to prolong our stay at the old town.

The fiscal is 61 years of age, and although his youthful days are past, he is still active and alert. He walked with us to M. Scholten’s, and the different parts of the town, during the morning, and was very animated and facetious, meaning to be good company; but sadly fatigued us with an incessant flow of senile garrulity. He knew but little French, and although he was more fluent in Latin, it was neither classical, nor always intelligible. At dinner he took his glass rather freely, as we afterwards learned was too commonly his custom. He now became officious and troublesome in his attentions, and at length grew unpleasant and querulous. He professed a high esteem for the English, and his civilities to us had seemed in unison with his professions. He drank bumpers to “George the Third and Old England,” but on the health of the Stadtholder being given, as we had intended in complimentary return, the mask at once fell off, and exposed him in the full character of a modern leveller. He raved and swore, called himself a patriot, and declared that he was the _firm friend_ of Holland, adding, “_I hope again to see Batavia a great nation, for England has not yet conquered all the world!_” But still, in loud noise, and with strange inconsistency, the poor old man would drown himself in bumpers to George III.! It availed nothing to tell him that His Majesty and the Stadtholder were friends: he would lose his senses, and sober himself again, drinking to the king of England; but nothing, he persisted, should ever compel him to _swallow a drop_ to the health of the prince of Orange. His nephew, who was present, was very much distressed, and, begging us to accept apologies from him, intreated that we would pardon the conduct of his uncle, which he attributed to the royal bumpers he had taken. We could only regard his effusions as the harmless ravings of imbecility, which but served to verify the common adage! Before dinner his sentiments were disguised: wine tore away the veil, and in deep drinking, the intemperate old man again became a child—was unguarded, and ... _spake the truth_!

LETTER LII.

Berbische.

Mynheer Scholten, although not so advanced in life as the fiscal, has been many years in the colony, busily employed in the practice of medicine, and acting as chirurgien major to the troops. He has one of the best houses in the old town, and all about it wears a degree of order, bespeaking much of ease and independence. Madame Scholten appeared to be a lively pleasant woman. We took tea with her after leaving the angry _vieux_-fiscal. She conversed in good French, and seemed inclined to wit and humour. M. Scholten is about to remove, from the old town, to New Amsterdam, so that we have a prospect of seeing this family added to our circle of society near the fort, which, in this thinly inhabited settlement, will be a great acquisition.

Old Amsterdam, as a town, has little more to recommend it, than New Amsterdam, which is only now growing into existence; and the latter, with regard to commerce, has every advantage of situation; while the former, although many years established, has no superiority to claim from regular streets, handsome houses, churches or other public edifices. We were conducted to one large building, but it was more commodious as a strong-built store-house, than ornamental or splendid. It was erected at great expense by the Dutch government, as a general depôt of stores, only a few years before it was determined to abandon the old town; and by this event is rendered, in a great degree, useless.

In our walk about the streets we met with a house inhabited only by Indians; also one possessed by a party of manumitted negro women. Curiosity led us into both: the latter appeared the cleanest and best ordered abode: in the former, the family were lying or sitting about in listless indifference, heedless of passing events and occurrences. We purchased from them some bows and arrows, and other specimens of Indian workmanship. Among the group we remarked a half-naked female, whose face and form were very beautiful; and whose fine long jet-black hair exhibited the interesting peculiarity of gently waving from the lank unyielding straightness so universally observed in the sable tresses of the natives of this coast.

On preparing our persons for dinner at the fiscal’s we had an opportunity of remarking that the old professional association of surgeon and barber so long practised in England was not grown obsolete among the Dutch. One of our party, in the indolence of the moment, wishing to avoid the trouble of smoothing his own chin, sent into the town for a person to shave him. Quickly appeared the hospital-surgeon, equipped with a set of chirurgical instruments and tonsoric apparatus. He bowed most respectfully, and not ungracefully, on entering the room, demanding in Latin, which of us it was, who required his services. Struck with his address and the formidable appearance of his case of instruments, we imagined that the slave who had been sent to fetch _the barber_ had committed some mistake: but, on asking the question, our hero of the brush instantly replied, “_Non, domini! Sum chirurgo-tonsor!_” then, displaying his razor and basin, assured us that he was more attached to the _operative_, than to the other branches of his profession. Without further hesitation, therefore, two brave officers submitted to be taken by the nose, and underwent _the operation_, with much ease and pleasantness, from the dexterous hand of Mynheer the _chirurgo-tonsor_; who, during the whole process, conversed fluently in Latin, upon medical and various other subjects. His education had been liberal, and he was not devoid of information, either literary, or professional: yet, from custom, he did not seem to feel any sense of humiliation in stooping to the menial office of cleaning another man’s chin! Such is the force of habit! What would our English knights of the scalpel say were they called upon, in these enlightened days, to _shave_ even the most dignified of his majesty’s subjects?

It was within our plan as recommended by M. Malsted, after passing the day at Old Amsterdam, to proceed with the evening tide to the estate Johanna. We held it a fortunate circumstance, therefore, that we met with M. Fenner, at M. Scholten’s, who was from that estate, and who very kindly desired to be our conductor to his home, an offer which we most gladly accepted. Upon entering the house at Johanna we were presented to a party of six white females, Mrs. Fenner and five of her friends. Such an assemblage of _backra_ ladies we had not met since our arrival in South America: but, unhappily, only the Dutch language was known to them, which prevented us from the full enjoyment of their society. Johanna also afforded other marks of European resemblance, which are not common in the colonies, such as an excellent garden laid out and cultivated very much à l’Anglaise; and in the fields a numerous herd of cows and oxen. In the garden we saw asparagus, artichokes, turnips, cucumbers, carrots, French beans, cabbages, and other European vegetables growing in all the vigour of a more temperate climate. The various tropical productions were likewise abundant. Some of the walks were bordered with the fragrant lime, others were shaded with the grateful water-lemon, or the grenadillo; and a general neatness with an unusual freedom from weeds prevailed throughout. This well-managed and productive spot was cultivated wholly by two hard-working negroes, each having only one arm, and hence M. Fenner wittily observed that the labour of one man effected it all. This was an uncommon example of industry in slaves, for so luxuriant are the weeds and so rapid the vegetation in this climate, that it is always difficult to maintain the soil in, even, tolerable neatness of appearance: but, here, two single arms subdued the obtrusive weeds, and kept the garden in far better order than many others we had seen, upon which the time and exertions of three or four robust blacks were constantly expended.

In the course of the evening we were conducted to the logis to see the slaves who were engaged in the occupation of ginning cotton. The building was very extensive, and we were led by way of a gloomy staircase to the upper story, where the blacks were all employed in one deep room, which ran through the whole length of the logis, and which, from the scene suddenly breaking upon us, created strong ideas of the fabled regions of old Pluto. The stairs opened at the end of the long building, so that on entering the room the eye at once looked down an immeasurable depth of glimmering light, through which was obscurely seen a multitude of naked black beings, either at rest or skipping about from place to place, without our being able to distinguish what was their employment. As we approached nearer to them, we found them to be a gang of negroes, old and young, robust and feeble, male and female, all busily and variously occupied in preparing cotton, by the aid of one faint light, suspended in the centre of what would otherwise have seemed an interminable gloom. Some were sitting on the floor; some at the ginning wheels; some were crouched upon their haunches; others standing, and many moving about, each according to the varied employment of ginning, of beating and pulling, of fetching and carrying, or of packing the cotton. Still we saw none distinctly, not even those immediately near to us: and the unusual noise, the various movements of the negroes, and the general confusion of the scene, augmented by the feeble light of the centre, and the impenetrable darkness at the extremities of the place, so powerfully called to mind the dismal abode of queen Proserpine and her grim lord, that we could not divest ourselves of the impression.

At supper-time the usual hospitality of the colony was displayed, and a generous plenty crowned the board. A party of thirteen took their seats at table; where a lively festivity prevailed, until a late hour, when the ladies left us, and we retired to our hammocks.

LETTER LIII.

Berbische.