Part 9

The land is cultivated in open fields: hedges, walls, and all the usual fences seem to be unknown; nor does the eye discover any distinct separation of the different estates; but it ranges, uninterrupted, over a wide-extended surface, richly spread with the various productions of a tropical soil, and pleasantly interpersed with the mansions of the _whites_, and the huts of the _blacks_. Cotton, pigeon pease, and Guinea corn, constitute the chief produce of this part of the island. Some fields of aloes, and of plantains, were also seen: but a degree of nakedness was perceptible from the want of wood, of which there is not a sufficiency to give a general richness to the landscape, although about the great _Backra_-houses there are several fine groves of the coco-nut and the majestic mountain-cabbage trees.

We arrived about two o’clock, having made our ride in the strongest heat of the day; but from the purity and freshness of the air, and from the country being more elevated, as we advanced, we felt no degree of languor or oppression, from a full exposure to the sun. At the doctor’s house, in consequence of the situation and construction of the building, we felt it cooler than either in Bridge-town, or Carlisle Bay. The party at dinner consisted of eight ladies, and fourteen gentlemen; the attendants were also numerous, yet, notwithstanding the number of persons in the room, and the many smoking dishes on the table, the steady perflation of the breeze kept us sufficiently cool.

The day passed most pleasantly: all was harmony and good cheer. The hospitality which supplied the feast, enriched its flavour; and the entertainment was highly graced by the urbanity and attentive politeness of the doctor and his lady. On our way back to Bridge-town, in the evening, we perceived the air to be more close and oppressive, and the heat greater as we descended from each plain of table-land; so that the difference we felt between breathing in the town, and in the cool breeze of the country was very striking, and led us to felicitate the doctor on having so advantageously exchanged physic for sugar, and the confined streets of the town for the open hills of the country.

It was the season of the cane harvest, and Dr. Hinde, kindly seeking our gratification, had contrived that the works should be going, in order that we might witness the method by which the juice is separated from the plants, and afterwards prepared into sugar. We also visited the distilling house, and inspected the apparatus for making the rum; hence, we had, this day, an opportunity of observing the progressive steps from the cutting of the canes, to the converting of their fluid parts into sugar and rum. At some more leisure moment, perhaps, I may note for you the whole of the process.

We made our excursion in single-horse chaises, like those, with leather tops, used in England; from which they only differ by having the leather, at the sides and the back, made to roll up, and let down at pleasure, for the twofold purpose of admitting the air, and excluding the rain. We were attended by slaves as running footmen, whose duty it was to travel as fast as we did, and to be in readiness to hold the bridles, or stand at the horses’ heads, at any spot where we might chance to alight, or to pause. They were equal in number to our horses, but as we were unaccustomed both to running footmen, and to slaves, we had strong feelings of compunction respecting these pedestrian pages; and from seeing them run, and pant, exposed to the mid-day heat of a tropical sun, merely for our convenience, it became so painfully annoying to us, that we lost all sense of comfort and enjoyment: Dr. Cleghorn and myself, therefore, stopped to desire that they would get up, alternately, and ride behind our chaise. Two of them, only, accepted the offer; all the others continued to walk or run throughout the journey.

Upon our mentioning to the gentlemen of the island our uneasiness respecting these sable attendants, they smiled at our European _tenderness_, and assured us, that, so far from it being a fatigue or hardship to them, they always hailed such an excursion as a holiday, and preferred it to remaining quietly at home. We could not, for an instant, dispute the information; but from believing that this violent exercise, under the excessive heat, must have been fatal to ourselves, and not being such experienced West Indians as to know how very differently it affected the negroes, we could not regard them without strong feelings of discomfort.

At one spot, in the course of our ride, we had our attention arrested by observing a party of four, almost naked, females working in a cane field. Curiosity would not allow us to pass on without devoting to them a moment of particular regard. We, therefore, went a little off the road to approach them nearer; when we found that they were labouring with the hoe, to dig, or cut up the ground, preparatory to the planting of sugar; and that a stout robust-looking man, apparently white, was following them, holding a whip at their backs. Observing that he was the only one of the party who was idle, we inquired why he did not partake of the task, and were told, in reply, that it was not his business—that he had only to keep the women at work, and to make them feel the weight of the whip if they grew idle, or relaxed from their labour.

Impulsive nature was roused at this information, and we felt shocked and indignant, at seeing a man, apparently strong enough to do as much work as the whole of the four, employed in the sole occupation of brandishing the whip over these poor degraded females. Reverting to the protection demanded from us, by the tender sex, we forgot for a moment, all the circumstances of the country we were in, and, indulging in a train of European sentiments, could not refrain from rebuking the man! Reflection whispered “_he is but on duty_;” still I confess that I must remain long in a land of slavery, before I can witness such a scene, without feeling a strong desire to take the whip from the fellow’s hand, and lay the lash across his shoulders, until he shall relieve the women, by, at least, partaking of their toil.

Notwithstanding the alarm of our Barbadoes acquaintance, Dr. Cleghorn and myself continue our walks, by rambling about the fields, and the paths, in the environs of Bridge-town, at an early hour of the morning: nor do we feel more fatigue than we might experience from the same degree of exercise in Europe. We walked lately from six till nine o’clock, and if you had the opportunity of consulting our stately mulatto attendant, at Mary Bella Green’s, you would learn that we exhibited no marks of a diminished appetite at breakfast-time.

Near the sea we were protected from the great force of the sun by the shade of trees, whose leaves and trunk very much resembled the common pear-tree of England; but whose fruit was, in form, a correct likeness of the apple. We knew not that it was forbidden, but had enough of caution to avoid tasting it. However I gathered a small branch, bearing fruit and leaves, and put it into my pocket as a specimen, from which we might ascertain what tree it was. Soon afterwards we met a negro, and upon our showing it to him, and asking its name, he, instantly, exclaimed with alarm, “_Ah, Massa, dat poison—dat no good for nhyaam—dat daamm manchineel, Massa._” Finding that I had fostered a serpent, I directly threw away every leaf, and every apple; but I discovered that, like other insidious foes, manchineel had quickly diffused its poison, and I afterwards smarted for my curiosity. Either my handkerchief, or my gloves had imbibed the offensive particles, and from having incautiously used them, my lips and face burnt for many hours after, with all the scorchings of cantharidistical acrimony; also from their having reached the tongue and fauces I was thrown into a copious salivation, and my mouth and throat were much swoln, and throbbed with fiery heat throughout the morning.

Near the sea we saw likewise some other trees, bearing a fruit very like grapes; but experience of the manchineel made us cautious in gathering further specimens of tropical production. Some negroes, whom we met, informed us that they were called sea-grapes, and were used as fruit; upon which we ventured to gather a few of them, and found that they were of pleasant flavour. In the course of the same walk we met with a fine avenue of coco-nut trees, bordered with the aloe and the plantain. This was not to be resisted. We could not forego the pleasure of exploring the extent of this delightful shade, therefore proceeded to its utmost depth; when we found that it led to a gentleman’s house, from which, as we approached, the lord of the mansion came out, to bid us welcome, and to tender us the courtesies of hospitality. We accepted the very grateful refreshment of a fine shaddock, pulled fresh from the tree; and the gentleman, kindly, conducted us to the plantain-ground, the negro-yard, and different parts of the house and estate.

We had, before, seen many negro huts, some shaded by the sea-grape, some sheltered by the broad and balmy leaf of the plantain, some protected by the umbrageous coco-nut, and some standing amidst the open fields, exposed to the full ardor of the sun: but all these were of a mean order, straggling, and dispersed, and bearing no kind of resemblance to the collective abode, constructed for the slaves of this estate.

It is common at the plantations to allot a small piece of ground, at a short distance from the house, to the use of the negroes. This is called the negro-yard. Here the slaves are allowed to build themselves small huts to live in, but they are, commonly, of very coarse construction, and are dark, close, and smoky. At the estate I now speak of, a circular piece of ground was appropriated as the negro-yard, but instead of the slaves being left to construct their own habitations, sixteen very neat and uniform cabins were erected of wood, and well roofed with shingles[4]. Placed in eight divisions they form a hollow octagon, a free opening being left for the breeze at one end of each hut. In the centre of the octagon is built a common kitchen, which serves for all the sixteen families. The huts are neat, and the whole premises wear an air of order, and of cleanliness, not common to the abode of slaves.

We contemplated this spot with much satisfaction, and were gratified in observing the high degree of attention, which was here given to the comfort and accommodation of the negroes; who had little cause to lament their removal from the wild woods of an opposite shore; and could scarcely desire to change their present lot for the high-rated freedom of European paupers.

This happy negro-yard forms, as it were, a complete village of sixteen families, all of whom may assemble, each evening, after the labour of the day, to join in the merry dance, or to smoke and sing together, free from every care. They have no thought how to provide for their infants, or their aged parents; nor have they to seek either food, habitation, or apparel. To each family is allotted a separate, and to all a common home; the necessary food and clothing are issued to them; and they know none of the anxious vexations or difficulties of the world. No fearful concern, nor harassing incumbrance can arise to them on account of their offspring, who, like themselves, are furnished with all that is needful; and those who have most children find themselves most valued and esteemed. In sickness, medical attendance is provided for them, and whatever is required is administered without any trouble on their own behalf. Thus are they guarded, at every avenue, against the approach of want and solicitude. Six days labour is demanded from them in the week; but the sabbath is given them as a day of rest and relaxation; and, from the total absence of care, it is usually spent in unbounded mirth and festivity.

In the course of our walks we have met with a washing party, and as you desire to know all that occurs, whether of much or little importance, I may tell you that, in this operation of cleaning, our linen is beaten and rubbed, and scrubbed to pieces in a most unmerciful manner, and, after all, without being made, even, tolerably clean.

The following is the process employed: the linen is first put into a tub, and rubbed through some water, then it is taken out and sprinkled with sand, previous to being pressed and beaten with a piece of wood, upon a coarse large stone, by the side of the river; after which it is rubbed out in the open stream. Next it is sprinkled with the fine white sand of the shore, and spread by the sea to whiten; then it receives another dipping in water; and, finally, is rinsed out in the wide channel of the river. From the rough treatment it undergoes, it seldom comes home without being torn into various rents and holes. The demand made for this rude cleaning is _a bit_ for each piece, without any regard to its size, or the labour required. A dozen shirts are washed for _twelve bits_, or, according to our coin, for twelve sixpences, and for the washing of a dozen pocket-handkerchiefs we pay the same.

LETTER XXI.

Barbadoes, Feb.

We have made another very delightful excursion, and find this little island more interesting and picturesque than my pen can tell you. Being invited to form a party to the plantation of Col. Williams, and to go early, in order that we might extend our ride to some of the most beautiful spots of the island, before dinner, Drs. Cleghorn, and Master, and myself rose in time to leave the ship at 5 o’clock. On arriving at Bridge-town we found slaves, horses, and all the requisites of the expedition, provided by the friendly attention of Mr. B. Hinde, under whose guidance we placed ourselves for the journey.

We went to the house of his brother before breakfast, where the table was spread, and the doctor waiting to receive us, prepared to join the party; as was also Mr. Abel Hinde, another of his brothers. After amply satisfying our morning appetites, we proceeded towards Col. Williams’s, which is some miles further. The sun had become more powerful than we had felt it on our way from Bridge-town to the doctor’s; but we gradually ascended to higher land, and coming into a mountainous part of the country, the breeze was sufficiently strong to prevent all sense of languor or oppression.

A little before we reached the abode of Col. Williams, we passed through a field where a large gang of negroes was employed in cutting canes. This proved a seasonable refreshment to us, for we had grown thirsty, and were glad to adopt the Barbadoes custom of giving our whips to the slaves, and taking sugar-canes to ride with; sucking one end to quench our thirst, while we beat on our horses with the other.

Thus equipped, we presently arrived at the dwelling of the owner of the canes. He greeted us very cordially, invited us to alight, and, perceiving that some of us were strangers, conducted us to the buildings, to show us the process of making the sugar. While looking at the works, we were joined by Col. Williams, who had come thus far to meet us. Our party being now complete, we proceeded to a most romantic and beautiful part of the island, called Scotland.

Near Bridge-town we observed that the soil was of rich black earth, but not of great depth, being in many places only thinly spread upon calcareous rocks, which are formed mostly of madripores. Further in the country the earth is of a reddish colour, and evidently argillaceous. This is broken, by cultivation, into fine mould; and the soil is deeper, though less rich, than that near to the town.

In some divisions of the part of the country called Scotland the land is white; and pieces of earth have, here, been found so hardened as to bear the knife or chisel: it has been possible also to mark, or write with them, as with chalk; and hence one spot has been denominated Chalkestate: but the name is founded in error, for the soil is not calcareous: it is argillaceous, and being hardened by the evaporation of its aqueous parts, the earth is rendered white by exposure to the weather. The district of Scotland comprehends the whole of the parish of St. Andrew, and part of two other parishes; the tutelar saint contributing in larger proportion than both the others.

This part of the island is uncommonly picturesque, and comprehends a very grand and interesting variety of scenery. With the stupendous irregularity and dark shades of the Alps, and the romantic wildness of the mountains of Wales, it combines the gentle but lively variety of the soft and flowing surface of England: and in addition to these, it offers extensive views of the encircling ocean, the shipping both at sea and in the harbour, and all the luxuriance of the fine tropical vegetation.

The particular spot from whence this part of the island appears to have derived its name, is raised in rugged cliffs, and broken uncultivated summits, forming a rude contrast to the high fertility of the vallies, and the bottoms of the hills. Mountains, yet more lofty than these barren cliffs, tower around, clothed with rich verdure; and the great variety of the scene is further increased by the umbrageous foliage and diversified tints of Turner’s-hall wood; the most extensive, and the most ancient in the island.

After being long exposed to the scorching sun, in contemplating the many beauties of this delightful neighbourhood, we passed over rough and rugged roads, along crooked narrow paths, up steep acclivities, and down rapid descents, into the deep gloom of the forest; where the change of scene was no less striking, than the coolness of the temperature was refreshing and grateful. Literally might these be called _sweet shades_, for they not only offered the protection we required, but contributed likewise oranges and lemons to quench our thirst, and further regaled us with the fragrance of odoriferous shrubs and plants. We, who were strangers, dwelt on every scene with rapture; and our kind friends, to whom the whole was familiar, expressed new delight in administering, so amply, to our gratification.

The cool shelter of the forest was derived from the mountain-cabbage, from large cedars, and from others of the oldest and finest trees of the island. Amidst these shades we descended to a narrow gully, between two mountains, to see one of the great curiosities—one of the reported wonders of Barbadoes—“a boiling spring!” On approaching the spot, we came to a small hut, in which was living an elderly black woman, who employed herself as a guide to exhibit, under a kind of necromantic process, all the details of this boiling and burning fountain. The old dame, bearing in her hand a lighted taper, and taking with her an empty calabash, and all the other necessary apparatus of her office, led the way from the hut down to the spring. In a still, and most secluded situation, we came to a hole, or small pit filled with water, which was bubbling up in boiling motion, and pouring, from its receptacle, down a narrow channel of the gully. Here our sable sorceress, in the silence and solemnity of magic, placing the light at her side, fell upon her knees, and, with her calabash, emptied all the water out of the cavity; then, immersing the taper in the deep void, she suddenly set the pit in a flame; when she instantly jumped upon her legs, and looked significantly round, as if anxious to catch the surprise expressed upon our countenances, from the workings of her witchcraft. The taper being removed, the empty space continued to burn with a soft lambent flame, without the appearance of any thing to support the combustion. We observed fresh water slowly distilling into the pit, from the earth at its sides, and dropping to the bottom; and as this increased in quantity, it raised the flame higher and higher, supporting it upon its surface, and conveying the appearance of the fluid element being on fire; although it was very clear and pure, and not spread with any oily or bituminous matter. When the water had risen to a certain height, the flame became feeble, then gradually declined, and presently was extinct. The boiling and bubbling were now seen as before, and, the pit soon overflowing, the stream resumed its course down the narrow channel of the gully, when all was restored to the state in which we had found it.

You will have discovered before this, that the water was cold, and that the boiling and burning of this fiery deep was only the effect of inflammable gas, which, escaping from the bowels of the earth, and rising from the bottom, supported the flame when the pit was empty, and, bubbling through, when it was filled with water, gave it the appearance of a boiling spring. During the combustion, the smell of the inflammable air was very powerful.

In the stones and soil, in the very rocks and roads, we traced the origin of this phænomenon of nature. Asphaltic productions abounded in every quarter: and, upon inquiry, we found that we were in the part of the country which produces the celebrated Barbadoes tar; the smell of which we perceived as we rode along; indeed, we saw it exuding from the hills of hardened clay, and even from the rocks at the sides of the road. The argillaceous soil of this neighbourhood is every where strongly impregnated with bitumen, in which you will readily discover the origin of the “boiling, or inflammable spring.”

We were next conducted to several spots, amidst the rough and wooded mountains, where we saw the tar issuing copiously into pits from the earth, and witnessed the mode of collecting it. So plentiful is it in this part of the country, that it may be procured from any hole dug deep enough to contain water; for when small openings are made in the earth, and water has flowed into them, the petroleum issuing from their sides accumulates and floats in a thick coating upon the surface. It is collected by laying the palm of the hand flat upon the water, and then scraping off the tar, which adheres to it, upon the edge of a basin or a calabash, repeating the dipping and scraping until the fluid is entirely cleared of its bituminous covering. After a few days the water is again bespread with tar, and more of it may be collected in a similar manner.

In order to reach these pits we were obliged to scramble, on foot, through deep and mountainous woods, and by way of narrow rugged paths, leaving our slaves and horses to go round and meet us at a distant spot below. Near the pits were great numbers of lemon-trees, whose fruit, like the crabs of the English hedges, having fallen from its branches, lay in heaps, unheeded, upon the ground.