Part 26

I mentioned in a former letter that alligators were in the list of our neighbours at Fort St. Andrew. They abound in the adjoining savanna, and in their journey down a small muddy stream to the river, they often visit the fosse surrounding the fort; and sometimes are even bold enough to ascend the works, and creep over the ramparts. One of them lately alarmed a sentinel in the night, by suddenly approaching him as he was standing at his post within the fort. The soldier, terrified at so unexpected a visitor, in the impulse of surprise fired upon the animal, and spread an alarm throughout the garrison. The guard instantly turned out, and all the troops were roused, and flying to arms, in the idea that the enemy was about to land. But lo! the frightened crocodile retreated, and the soldiers had only to return to their beds!

We have since had one of these frightful amphibia killed; and a more hideous specimen of the animal creation could scarcely be met with. It appeared the most forbidding of nature’s forms. The green eyes, the sharp teeth and monstrous jaws, the strong waving tail, the hard impenetrable skin, and the short thick legs, and formidable claws, together with the circumstance of its crawling so near the earth, render the alligator a real object of horror. He is well armed both for attack and defence: while his scaly horn-like skin serves as a protecting coat of mail, he possesses, as an assailant, the devouring grasp of his shark-like teeth, and the ability of striking a blow with his shell-like tail, which might knock a man down, or fracture his legs. His limbs are also of peculiar strength, and are each armed with four powerful claws.

With all this strength of form, and of action, he is singularly tenacious of life: indeed, by the common means of destruction it is impossible at once to deprive him of animation; for however cut, beaten, or torn, still signs of vitality remain for a considerable time. It is only with extreme difficulty that he is conquered in the first instance, and, even when subdued, to kill him is still a task. Unless at certain parts, a musket-ball will not penetrate his skin, and a violent blow scarcely does him any injury. If cut, or torn in pieces, and left to appearance dead, he, for a long time after, exhibits marks of sensation upon being touched.

The one we destroyed was first shot in the head, but he was still a most dangerous and active enemy, and had nearly seized one of the negroes by the leg. Notwithstanding his being wounded, he remained unsubdued until he had received many severe blows behind the neck; and for long after this he struck very forcibly with his tail. Further attempts were made to kill him, but, as late as two hours from the time he was conquered, he pressed my hand with considerable force, on my taking hold of one of his claws; for several hours after, he continued to show signs of life, and it was even difficult to mark the moment when it became extinct. It was my intention that you should some day see his formidable coat of armour, and for that purpose, I had given directions to have it carefully preserved; but from waiting to know that the creature was actually dead, before we stripped him of his skin, we unluckily lost him, and I shall only be able to present you with his claws. Having left him near the hospital whilst we walked into the fort, the negroes took an opportunity of stealing him away; and, on returning, we found our alligator chopped in pieces, and already stewing into soup—the slaves anticipating the mess, as a delicious feast. The meat was white, and not unlike the flesh of a rabbit. But for the common prejudice attaching to its form, perhaps the alligator, as food, might not be found inferior to other amphibious animals: possibly it might be equal to our rich turtle, or the more delicate frogs of France.

We have lately made a party from the fort, and spent two most pleasant days—one at the governor’s, the other with Mr. Blair, an opulent planter, residing at a short distance down the coast on the opposite shore of the river.

At the governor’s a dance and fête were given in the evening to the slaves, and we were extremely delighted to see how much they enjoyed themselves. They assembled in the great hall of the government-house, having a violin, with the fife and drum for their band. Both negroes and mulattoes danced with a degree of animation and pleasure, which bespake them free from care. The governor, his lady, his sister, several gentlemen of the colony, and our party from the fort, attended as spectators, and were all amused and gratified in witnessing this merry dance of slaves.

Until now I had only seen the slaves perform the rude African dance upon the open green, and had not imagined them to be capable of moving with such order as they here exhibited in regular country dances. Even minuets were led down, in precise and stately step, and with a decree of ease and gracefulness of movement which are seldom witnessed among the common people of England.

In the course of the evening a circumstance occurred which had nearly interrupted the order and harmony of the fête: but it terminated with only affording to the governor a pleasing and facetious opportunity of convincing us of his intimate knowledge of the English language. In the midst of the dance three officers of our army and navy, who were not of the party invited, and who had been devoting rather too freely to the rosy god, came staggering, abruptly, into the hall. One of them, with the busy officiousness of inebriety, insisted upon introducing the others to Madame Van Battenburg: but he had forgotten his English! or, in the confidence inspired by wine, was ambitious to display his knowledge of French; and therefore addressed her only in the latter dialect, speaking it so incorrectly that it was difficult to comprehend what he said, or rather what he meant to say. Alarmed at his condition, Madame Van Battenburg begged to be protected lest he should tumble against her; and true enough, at this moment, the poor captain fell sprawling at her feet. After much exertion, and with some assistance, he rose up, and supported himself upon his legs. He had now to make his apologies, which were likewise attempted in broken French, too bad to be understood. During all this his companions were reeling about the hall, but, regardless of them, he continued to persecute Madame Van Battenburg with his bad French, insisting that either she or Mademoiselle Van Battenburg should join him in the dance: “_Venez, venez, Madame_,” said he, “_il faut danser—voulez vous viens danser avec moi?_” but finding he could not prevail with either of the ladies, he suddenly turned from them, and happening to stumble again upon his companions, each of them seized a sable damsel, and dragging their partners into the row, took their places in the dance. But it soon appeared that they could perform only _reels_, and the country dances being interrupted by their presence, it became necessary to lead away these _slaves ... of the bottle_, in order to prevent both the spectators, and the dancers from being deprived of their amusement; accordingly, with some trouble, they were conducted to the barrack. Madame Van Battenburg feeling surprised at our intoxicated captain speaking to her only in unintelligible French, mentioned it as remarkable, that he did not utter one syllable of English: when the governor replied, “No, my dear! it is not at all strange that Captain —— should not speak English to-night! on the contrary it is highly proper and correct: you know he is a British officer; and it would be disloyal in a British officer _to clip the King’s English_.” On another occasion this agreeable Dutchman gave a similar proof of his close acquaintance with our language. One day as they were sitting over the bottle, he and an officer of the navy debated respecting some captured property, which the governor considered as private, and the officer as public. The former urged that it was sacred, and ought not to be confiscated; while the latter insisted that it was colonial, and should be condemned for the benefit of the captors. Each maintained his opinion with amicable warmth—neither yielding to the other. In the evening a ball was given to the party at the governor’s house; when, in the mirthful dance, the officer, perhaps a little elevated by the debate, or _the bottle_, took Madame Van Battenburg in his arms and saluted her. The governor observing it, instantly called out with emphasis, “Very well, captain! Do you not consider that _private property_ either?” Perhaps few foreigners, who have not resided a long time in England, have acquired a more just idea of the spirit of our tongue. The governor is an agreeable well-informed man; and a social companion. His address is genteel, and his manners are polished. He is hospitable and friendly: his mind is highly cultivated, and in his conduct he obtains general respect and esteem. His door is always open to his friends, the officers are frequently invited to his table, and he allows them to consider his house as a home.

Madame Van Battenburg is cheerful and entertaining. Her disposition is lively and animated; she sings very sweetly, and in conversation is sprightly and affable. She emulates the governor in his friendly hospitality, and, together, they make their abode pleasant and familiar to us all.

There being neither coffee-house nor tavern at New Amsterdam, and the government-house being most conveniently situated at the landing-place on the bank of the river, we are happy to avail ourselves of the kind offer of the governor, to make his mansion our resting-place, and point of rendezvous, in our occasional visits to the town.

To speak of the sumptuous entertainment we had at Mr. Blair’s were to throw an air of doubt upon my former notes regarding the paucity of fresh provisions in these colonies. But let it be remembered that individuals of large estate may find the means of procuring a most ample supply for their own tables, although the colony may not furnish an overplus to send to the public market. At Berbische fresh animal food is provided for the troops more frequently than we had been able to procure it at Demarara.

Mr. Blair is one of the most opulent planters in these parts. At his place of residence, stock and provisions are in sufficient abundance to enable him to treat his friends with the most splendid liberality. He is generous and social, and the riches of his table are dispensed with all the bounty of his nature. Instead of a plain cottage just rising from the wild woods of an infant settlement, we might have fancied ourselves feasting in one of the hospitable mansions of Old England, or in some chartered hall even of voluptuous London itself.

The house is a compact dwelling, neatly built of plain timber, offering, in its exterior, nothing to attract the stranger’s eye, nor to bespeak the many luxuries within. It stands on the border of the sea, open to the wide ocean. Before it, is an extensive and flat beach of firm sand, forming a pleasant ride or walk at the side of the water. The estate is quite in its infancy, being recently formed out of the rude forest, and only now breaking into cultivation. In great part of it the young plants of cotton are just shooting from the soil between the remaining stumps of trees lately destroyed. There being no market in the colony, each planter’s abode must furnish all within itself; every necessary, every comfort, all that is given, or enjoyed, must be found in the house or upon the plantation, yet in such plenty were they served at this prolific home, that one might have fancied a Covent-garden, or a Leadenhall market to have been near.

A large and very handsome boat was sent for our conveyance, having an awning at the stern to protect us from the sun; and we were rowed across the mouth of the river by eight of the finest slaves of the estate, who pulled us on with surprising speed. At the landing-place another party of slaves attended with horses to conduct us to the house. The sun was extremely powerful, but we had a delightful ride about a mile and a half through fields of cotton and of plantains; the negroes running at the horses’ sides, according to the custom of the country, as fast as we chose to proceed.

Hock and Seltzer water were presented immediately on our arrival, and the time, until dinner, was most gratefully occupied in the perusal of a packet of newspapers, just arrived from England: than which, perhaps, a greater treat could not have been offered us. For dinner we had excellent soup, with boiled fish, stewed fish, and fish in pie; also turtle, and crabs, most exquisitely dressed, forming two uncommonly rich and high-seasoned dishes. We had likewise a side of lamb, a fine goose, a large ham, &c. &c. After these followed a complete course of sweets. The cook was quite a proficient, and did great justice to the entertainment, the whole dinner being well dressed, and as well served. We had afterwards pines, shaddocks, melons, water-lemons, and multitudes of other fruits. Hock, Claret, Madeira, and Port wines were in liberal use. We had also Seltzer and Spa waters, bottled small beer, ale, porter, brandy, rum, Hollands, noyeau, and several different liqueurs—all in supply sufficient for a lord mayor’s feast.

After our eating and drinking we took a walk about the plantation, and found every corner of it equally bounteous as the table and the cellar. Such a store of living stock, both large and small, I had not seen upon any estate since my arrival in the Western world. A more gratifying assemblage of domestic plenty could scarcely be found in any country. Among the stock I should not omit to mention, a pen of living turtles kept in readiness for the table: large droves of crabs were also running about near the door; and the neighbouring sea is, at all times, made tributary to the board. Several hundreds of negroes employed at work, or moving from place to place, improved the variety of the scene, while they added essentially to the value of the home. Together with the abundance of usual productions at this all-supplying abode were likewise some of the more rare and curious specimens, such as the small lion-monkey; and the large powys, or wild turkey of the woods; also the trumpeter, the fly-catcher, and several other uncommon birds. Our walk was highly gratifying, and offered much to excite, as well as to interest our contemplations. We extended it to the seabeach, and found the sand flat and firm as a bowling-green, and of a dark brown colour, neither liable to be blown into the eyes, nor to offend them by its brightness. A cool sea breeze adds to the many advantages of this situation: it is always free and pure, there being nothing to impede or contaminate it between the house and the ocean. After it grew dark a rubber was proposed as the amusement of the evening: but cards had no power to attract the majority of us from the _dear_ unfinished Times and Chronicle. We slept in hammocks according to the common mode of the country, and a most convenient mode it is, for a very large party may be thus accommodated in a small house, it being only necessary to hang up as many hammocks as there are persons. Neither beds, sheets, nor blankets are required, for the hammock includes them all, and serves as bedstead, mattress, and coverlet besides!

The next morning I rose at an early hour, and took a walk before breakfast, to visit what is here termed the “yaw-house;” a kind of hospital, placed at a distance from all the other buildings, for the use of such of the negroes as may be afflicted with that hideous and distressing disorder, the yaws. Here I saw some most striking pictures of human misery—sad objects of compassion, and disgust! Not to commiserate their sufferings were impossible, but their offensive and diseased appearance creates a sense of horror on beholding them. Of all the unsightly disorders which the human body is heir to, this is perhaps the worst. Imagine to yourself a group of meager sickly-looking negroes, with their bones almost piercing their unhealthy skins, and their bodies beset with ragged noxious sores, and ulcerous excrescences, and you will have some idea of the wretched inhabitants of _a yaw-house_. Congregated disease, crowded suffering, and accumulated wretchedness are spectacles common to the eyes of medical men: they have been long familiar to mine! Yet the effect of this scene was too impressive ever to be effaced from my mind. Some of these truly pitiable beings were crouching upon their haunches round a smoky fire, some stood trembling on their sadly ulcerated limbs, others, supporting themselves by a large stick, were dragging their emaciated bodies from place to place; while many, too feeble to rise, lay shivering with pain and torture upon the bare boards of a wooden platform.

Unhappily for our species, this most odious distemper is contagious, and readily communicated from one person to another; nor has it been found to yield easily to the power of medicine. It often exists for years, and commonly its removal is more the effect of time and regimen than of medical treatment.

When a negro is attacked with this cruel disorder, he is separated from his fellow-slaves, and sent to the yaw-house to remain until he shall recover. Usually it is six, often twelve months, or even more, before he is again fit to return amidst the gang. An improved diet, with cleanliness, pure air, and sea-bathing are most conducive to his recovery; whence it may be inferred that filthiness, and poverty of food, are among the occasional causes of the disease. From its resemblance to an afflicting malady, but too well known in Europe, mercury has been much employed as a remedy, but, unfortunately, with very little success.

I may here announce to you that another excursion of a more extensive nature has been projected, for the purpose of visiting the planters’ estates in the remotest parts of the colony; and of proceeding up the river even beyond the farthest settlement of the colonists, in order to see the Indians in their native dwellings amidst the deep woods. If it takes place, I shall endeavour to be one of the party; and shall not be the first who will propose to return.

LETTER L.

Berbische, June 28.

How true it is, my friend, that where inclination leads, difficulties are easily subdued! After hearing many apprehensions expressed, and various obstructing circumstances enumerated, we have performed our contemplated expedition, without encountering a single impediment which was not readily overcome. This confirms the opinion that most of the obstacles which interrupt our minor plans, and even of the mighty stumbling-blocks placed in the more important path of life, exist only in imagination. In far the majority of cases discretion and prudent perseverance might surmount them; but where exertion is required, we are too indolent to remove the opposing forms which fancy has created. Terrified, or too implicitly yielding to visionary impossibilities, a torpid inaction prevents us from examining whether they are phantoms or realities, and we forego the advantages of the pursuit, from a disinclination to use the efforts which may be required in its execution.

In the present instance, if we had listened to the timid counsel of those whom fancied difficulties had deterred from engaging in it, themselves, we should have neglected making an excursion which has afforded us infinite gratification.

But, to our subject. Soon after our visit at Mr. Blair’s, our party was formed, and we set off _en quartette_, Captain de Courcy, Captain Webb, Lieutenant Mackie, and myself, on our fondly anticipated journey. We had a four-oared boat from the fort, with an awning built over the part where we sat, which not only protected us from the sun, but also, by means of a door and windows, enclosed us as it were in a cabin. Sufficient intelligence could not be collected to enable us to fix either the limits of our journey or the period of our return. We had, therefore, no settled route, but our movements were to be forward or retrograde, as we found that pleasure or discomfort attended our path. It was completely a _marooning_ adventure. Where to find food, or where take rest depended entirely upon chance. Every planter, and every estate were alike unknown to us: but we knew that there were plantations, and places of abode, upon the borders of the river: we knew, also, that in all civilized countries, where strangers are but seldom seen, hospitality is a prevailing characteristic of the inhabitants; we became intruders, therefore, upon the good-will of the colonists, resolving to regulate our proceedings by the information we should acquire, and to govern ourselves wholly by events.

Among the obstacles said to present themselves, was that of the period of the year being unfavorable; and it was suggested that from the heavy rains of the wet season, the river would be swelled, and the current so rapid, that the negroes would not be able to row against the stream. Upon this account it was pretended that we could go only a very short distance each day, and not even that without great labour and fatigue to the slaves. If we had not received other more encouraging reports, this would have deterred us from the undertaking. It certainly was a circumstance that merited consideration, and we found in it an additional reason for avoiding every thing like a settled plan. At worst, should night chance to overtake us, when no plantation was nigh, we should always have the remedy of tying the boat to a tree or a bush at the side of the river, and letting the negroes rest until morning.

The principal difficulty that presented itself was our ignorance of the Dutch language. It happened that I was the only one of the party who had any knowledge of it, and whether I might be sufficiently conversant with it to make myself understood was doubtful. However, by a little Dutch, a little French, and a little English we trusted we might make our way. We established a certain routine of duty, such as directing the slaves, presenting the party to strangers, making the necessary arrangements, &c.; and agreed that each should take it by turn to be “orderly” for the day; thus forming a sort of military _fatigue duty_, which was to fall upon each in rotation, according to a settled muster.

To provide for ourselves the comforts, or even the necessaries of the journey, was not in our power. Our whole list of stores consisted of a cold ham and some bread, with a supply of plantains for the negroes, some wine and Hollands, a few bottles of water, and our hammocks.