Part 20

On our arrival in the town of Stabroek, we met with an infuriated citizen-republican in one of the inhabitants, whose rash and jacobinical zeal outran all the bounds of discretion. He not only avowed, but sought to inculcate the most violent revolutionary principles; and although he had much cause of distress, from domestic affliction, he could not resist the pleasure of grossly abusing the “_English aristocrats_,” and indulging in loud political declamation! His wife had died the evening the Dutch garrison surrendered; but the colony becoming subject to the “_monarchical English_,” was deeper grief to this _modern_ republican, than the loss of his wife. Religion, and even its forms seem to be, here, dispensed with, for they have neither a place of worship, nor of interment. Citizen M— followed his poor unlamented wife to the fields, and there consigned her to a hole in the earth, uttering his grief in loud curses against ... _the aristocrats_!

A few days since I had an opportunity of dining in company with several of the planters of this colony, who have estates upon the seacoast; and I could not but remark a striking difference between these gentlemen, and those who reside constantly in Stabroek, or in Bridge-town; compared to whom they would seem the more robust inhabitants of a temperate climate. Both in countenance and in general stamina, they are very unlike the sallow-looking subjects of the towns. To find any of the colonists with such strong and healthy frames, was particularly satisfactory to me, having been impressed with a contrary expectation, from the discouraging reports I had heard regarding these settlements.

From all that I had collected upon the subject, I understood it to be a generally received opinion at Barbadoes, and the neighbouring islands, that the climate upon the coast of Guiana was, singularly, unhealthy: but the appearance of the gentlemen alluded to is sufficient to rescue it from a prejudice so unwarranted.

I have made a visit to a coffee plantation, near the town, where I saw an extensive display of the luxuriancy of the soil of Guiana. This estate differs from the wide fields upon the coast, only in being a flat surface of coffee, instead of cotton; but it is rendered rich and inviting, from being traversed with green walks, shaded with fine rows of trees, whose loaded branches bend under the various species of tropical fruits, serving, at the same time, to delight the eye, regale the olfactories, and refresh the palate. A pleasant path, more than a mile in length, and of sufficient width for carriages, leads down the middle of the estate, the sides being decorated with mangoes, oranges, avagata-pears, and many other kinds of fruit.

Crossing this walk, near the centre, is a thick grove of many hundreds of orange-trees, clad in all the variety of umbrageous foliage, fragrant blossoms, unripe _green_ and ripe _golden_ fruit.

In the genial climate of Europe, how delightful would be fields or gardens thus planted, and how exquisitely enjoyed! But, here, under the scorchings of a torrid sun, while the eye, and the olfactories, and the palate are gratified, the tortured sense of feeling precludes every possibility of comfort. If exposed to the open sun, the excess of heat produces insupportable languor and fatigue; and if we seek the protecting shade of the fruit-trees, we are, there, plagued with the sharp bitings of myriads of musquitoes.

Invited by the grateful odour, and taking advantage of the cool shade, I left the broad and heated path, to ramble in the sweet avenues of the orange grove, but, ere my foot had traced its second step in the soft grass, I was beset by thousands of these tormenting insects, and compelled to make a hasty retreat.

In my escape I experienced more courteous fare; for, upon turning from the shaded path, a very fine mulatto woman of the house, seeing me walking, and observing me to be a stranger, came out, with a plate of the sweetest oranges of the grove, and, inviting me to eat, with much gracefulness and urbanity, bade me welcome.

Presently afterwards I met a robust negro carrying a heavy basket of fruit upon his head, and, asking him how they disposed of the immense numbers of oranges growing upon the estate, he replied “Gib ’em to de neighbours, Massa.” Availing myself of this information, I wrote to Mynheer Meertens, the attorney of the estate, and have obtained permission to gather basketsful of oranges for the sick soldiers, whenever I please.

I should feel it an unworthy omission not to give you a copy of Mynheer Meertens’ obliging note to the manager, after reading my request. It was as follows: “Monsr. Keller, à l’habitation Vlessingen, aura la bonté de procurer, de tems en tems, pour les militaires qui sont malades, les fruits tels qu’ils s’y trouvent. Il obligera son très humble serviteur,”

“A. MEERTENS.”

During the few days, since our arrival here, events and circumstances have occurred, as if they had been designed expressly to place before us what was likely to be most striking to Europeans. Already we have witnessed the humiliating, but very interesting sight of a cargo of several hundreds of human subjects being landed from a slave-ship, and exposed to public sale; and on the other hand, naked beings, who range in the utmost freedom of human nature, have presented themselves in crowds to our observation; parties of copper-coloured Indians, from the wild woods, having come down the river in their canoes to visit the town. It has also happened to me to be addressed by a wretched slave, strongly intreating me to purchase her from her master; and I have further witnessed with surprise, the more than apathy, perhaps I might say, the exultation of a white lady, on hearing the cries of a negro suffering under the whip. Likewise the honor has been done me of having a young slave placed by my elbow at dinner-time, with a fragrant bough to defend me from the flies; and I have been complimented with a negro to sleep at my bed-room door, in order to be in readiness, in case I should require him to beat off the musquitoes, or to bring me any thing in the night.

It proves that we are here just in time to witness the setting in of the rainy season; it having announced itself by the falling of rapid showers almost every morning since our landing: and, amidst all the novelties of this moment, I must not forget to add, that I now experience the tormenting sensation of having my whole skin thickly beset with prickly heat.

We find that the Western code of hospitality, so prominent at Barbadoes, is not confined to that island. It extends equally to the coast of South America. The planters, whom I have had the pleasure to meet at Stabroek, have invited me, in the most cordial manner, to their several homes, offering me every accommodation at their plantations in the country, whenever I may find time to visit them.

I should tell you that the unhappy slave, who came to me to intreat that I would purchase her, was a very decent young woman, here termed a “house-wench.” The hardships and ill treatment she had suffered, had created, she said, such an entire dislike to her present home, that if she could find no “_good Massa_” who would buy her, she had determined to try to escape from her misery by running away. The poor creature shuddered as she mentioned this expedient, sensible that if she should be retaken, her sufferings, great as they were, would be sadly multiplied. Still she declared she was firmly resolved to hazard the attempt, rather than continue her, now, wretched life, hopeless of relief.

The heavy tear swelled on her dark cheek as she related the severities to which she had been subjected. Her tale was at once interesting and distressful. It needed not the aid of eloquence to move compassion. The simple narration of the cruelties imposed, and the punishments inflicted for only trivial faults, instantly roused the feelings, and in strong appeal begat a new regret that hosts of human creatures, for the mere lucre of a few of their fellow-beings, differing in the colour of their skin, should be degraded to a situation, which not only deprives them of the command of their persons, but, also, robs them of all the powers of will.

Divested of every right, a slave has no redress, not even against the bitterest wrongs: however oppressed, however injured, he has no resource—no means of relief! Not having the power of changing his home, he has no escape from ill usage or cruelty; but is condemned to travel the long journey of life in hopeless discontent.

The corporal punishment of slaves is so common, that instead of exciting the repugnant sensations, felt by Europeans on first witnessing it, scarcely does it produce, in the breasts of those accustomed to the West Indies, even the slightest glow of compassion. The lady I have above alluded to appears of good natural disposition, and in no degree disposed to general cruelty; but the frequency of the sight has rendered her callous to its usual influence upon the feelings. Being one morning at her house, while sitting in conversation, we suddenly heard the loud cries of a negro smarting under the whip. Mrs. —— expressed surprise on observing me shudder at his shrieks, and you will believe that I was in utter astonishment to find her treat his sufferings as matter of amusement. It proved that the punishment proceeded from the arm of the lady’s husband, and fell upon one of her own slaves! Can you believe that on learning this, she exclaimed with a broad smile, “Aha! it will do him good! a little wholesome flagellation will refresh him: it will sober him: it will open his skin, and make him alert. If Y— was to give it them all, it would be of service to them!”

I could not compliment the lady upon her humanity. The loud clang of the whip continued, and the poor imploring negro as loudly cried, “_Oh Massa, Massa,—God a’mighty—God bless you, Massa! I beg you pardon! Oh! Massa, Oh! I beg you pardon! Oh! God—a’mighty—God bless you!_”—Still the whip sounded aloud, and still the lady cried “Ay, it is very necessary!”

Such is the effect of habit in subduing even our most amiable emotions. Could this lady have known how much her remarks deformed her, policy would have led, no doubt, to a different expression, although humanity had not taught, nor custom allowed her to possess a better sentiment!

What would you say were you to see me return home rich as a West India planter? Sanguine whisper fondly augments the value of our captured property to upwards of £200,000! We hear of various ships, of extensive stores, of large estates, and of whole gangs of slaves, all public property, to be confiscated for the benefit of the _captors_; and from my being here, in the direction of a department, I am told, that I ought to calculate upon receiving a sum by no means despicable. My expectations, however, do not run very high, being aware of the close meltings, which such kind of property usually undergoes, before it becomes sufficiently refined for the pockets of the claimants[7].

LETTER XL.

Stabroek, May 6, 1796.

Previous to giving you the intelligence which reaches us at this place, it were fit to inform you that the island of Barbadoes is now become, as it were, the London of the West Indies—the great capital to which we anxiously look for events, and for news. Removed to a still farther distance from you, and without any direct communication, we seem dependent upon this sub-metropolis; and we acquire the tidings of England, of Europe, of the West India Islands, and of the main body of our army, only as conveyed to us, indirectly, viâ Barbadoes.

Two vessels have arrived from thence; by which we learn that the Commander in Chief, and the troops did not sail until the 21st of April, being six days after the time we left Barbadoes. It was not publicly known whether they were gone against Guadaloupe, or St. Lucie; but, from all the circumstances of the armament, it seems now to be the current opinion that Guadaloupe is not to be attacked during the present campaign.

We are told that Admiral Christian arrived just before the troops departed from Barbadoes, bringing with him twenty-seven sail of vessels, the remnant of the immense fleet with which he originally sailed, in the month of November!

You will not envy our walks in the neighbourhood of Stabroek, when I tell you that the wet season is completely set in, and that from the soil being of pure mud and clay, we cannot move a step from the door without being ancle-deep. Such roads were scarcely ever seen; and, not having yet an opportunity of purchasing a horse, I am compelled daily to walk mid-leg deep in moist clay, or to drag my limbs through a path still deeper in mud.

Since the date of my last letter, I have been witness to a gentleman calling up one of his slaves, into the breakfast-room, and giving him orders to go with three others into the fields, the highways, or the woods, and cut grass, to sell in the town, charging him to recollect that it was at the pain of a “good flogging” if they did not each bring him home four bits[8] at night: adding, by way of encouragement, that, if they could gain more, they might keep the surplus for themselves. They went out, each taking a long knife and a string, and returned, punctually, in the evening with the sixteen bits.

Unfortunately I am now enabled to speak of the punishment of a slave, which was far more severe than that mentioned in my last letter; and, I am sorry to add, attended with similar marks of insensibility, and want of feeling, on the part of a white female. Happening to call one morning upon a lady at Stabroek, in company with several Europeans who had been my fellow-passengers hither, we were scarcely seated before we heard the clang of the whip, and the painful cries of an unfortunate black. The lady of the house, more accustomed to scenes of slavery than ourselves, pointing to the spot, as if it were a pleasant sight for strangers, or something that might divert us, asked, with apparent glee, if we saw them “_flogging the negre_!” Truly we saw the whole too clearly. A poor unhappy slave was stretched out naked, upon the open street, tied down, with his face to the ground, before the fiscal’s door, his two legs extended to one stake, his arms strained out, at full length, to two others in form of the letter Y, and, thus secured to the earth, two strong-armed drivers[9], placed at his sides, were cutting his bare skin, by turns, with long heavy-lashed whips, which, from the sound, alone, without seeing the blood that followed, conveyed the idea of tearing away pieces of flesh at every stroke.

I am exceedingly happy to be able to relieve you from this painful scene, by presenting to you one of a very opposite nature—one in which every feeling of your heart will warmly participate. A party of recently arrived Europeans went to dine at “Arcadia;” the plantation of a Mr. Osborn, about eight miles from Stabroek. Five slaves were sent, with a handsome covered boat, to conduct us thither. We had a most pleasant sail, about six miles up the river; and, then, we were drawn about two miles further, by the negroes running at the side of the canal, leading to the estate, singing all the way, and pulling, in merry tune, together. On our arrival at Mr. Osborn’s, we were presented with wine, fruits, and various refreshments; and, afterwards, were amused, till dinner-time, in viewing the coffee plantation, the negro-yard, and the different premises. At dinner we shared all the good things of the colony, and, in the afternoon, were conducted across the canal to visit the estate, and happy home of Mr. Dougan, a neighbour whom Mr. Osborn had invited to meet us. Here we found a rich sugar plantation bordered with coffee and fruits.

I cannot express how much we were interested and gratified with all we saw at this cheerful abode of Mr. Dougan. The plantation is laid out with much taste, and having every advantage of culture, it exhibits, in high perfection, all the luxuriance of an opulent tropical estate. Utility, comfort, and convenience, are here most happily combined. A private canal leads through the middle of the grounds, and serves for ornament and pleasure, as well as for bringing home the copious harvests of coffee and sugar.

At its sides are smooth walks of grass; and between these and the sugar-canes are borders planted with all the choice tropical fruits, rendering a promenade upon the water, or its banks, most fragrant and inviting, and offering to the eye and the palate all the variety of oranges, shaddocks, forbidden fruit, citrons, limes, lemons, cherries, custard-apples, cashew-apples, avagata-pears, grenadilloes, water-lemons, mangoes, and pines. The other walks, which traverse the plantation, are also cool and sweet-smelling avenues of fruit-trees.

But however great the richness, beauty, and fragrance of the estate, its canals, and its walks, still I am sensible that I shall more firmly secure your attachment to it, by mentioning the simple fact that, to the slaves it affords ... a happy home!

I know not whether, upon any occasion, since my departure from England, I have experienced such heart-felt pleasure as in witnessing the high degree of comfort and happiness enjoyed by the slaves of “Profit.” Mr. Dougan not only grants them many little indulgences, and studies to make them happy, but he fosters them with a father’s care, whilst they, sensible of his tenderness towards them, look to their revered master as a kind and affectionate parent; and, with undivided—unsophisticated attachment, cheerfully devote, to him, their labour and their lives.

Not satisfied with bestowing upon his negroes mere food and raiment, Mr. Dougan establishes for them a kind of right. He assures to them certain property, endeavours to excite feelings of emulation among them, and to inspire them with a spirit of neatness and order, not commonly known among blacks; and I rejoice to add that the effects of his friendly attentions, towards them, are strongly manifested in their persons, their dwellings, and their general demeanour. Perhaps it were not too much to say, that the negro-yard at “Profit” forms one of the happiest villages within the wide circle of the globe!

The slaves of Mr. Dougan are not only fed, and clothed, and tenderly watched in sickness, without any personal thought, or concern; but each has his appropriate spot of ground, and his cottage, in which he feels a right as sacred as if secured to him by all the seals and parchments of the Lord High Chancellor of England, and his court.

Happy and contented, the slave of “Profit” sees all his wants supplied: never having been in a state of freedom, he has no desire for it: not having known liberty, he feels not the privation of it; nor is it within the powers of his mind either to conceive or comprehend the sense we attach to the term. Were freedom offered to him he would refuse to accept it, and would only view it as a state fraught with certain difficulties and vexations, but offering no commensurate good. “_Who gib me for gnyhaam Massa_,” he asks, “_if me free?_” “_Who gib me clothes?_” “_Who send me a doctor when me sick?_”

With industry a slave has no acquaintance; nor has he any knowledge of the kind of comfort and independence which derive from it. Ambition has not taught him that, in freedom, he might escape from poverty; nor has he any conception that by improving his intellect he might become of higher importance in the scale of humanity. Thus circumstanced, to remove him from the quiet and contentment of such a bondage, and to place him amidst the tumults and vicissitudes of freedom, were but to impose upon him the exchange of great comparative happiness, for much of positive difficulty and distress.

From what has been said you will perceive that it is difficult to do justice to the merit of Mr. Dougan. His humane and liberal conduct does him infinite honor; while the richness of the estate and the happiness of the slaves loudly proclaim his attentive concern.

The cottages and little gardens of the negroes exhibited a degree of neatness, and plenty, which might be envied by free-born Britons, not of the poorest class. The huts of Ireland, Scotland, France, Germany, and many, even of England itself, bear no comparison with these. In impulsive delight I ran into several of them, surprising the slaves with an unexpected visit. They mostly consist of a comfortable sitting-room, and a clean, well-furnished bedchamber. In one I observed a high bedstead, according to the present European fashion, with deep mattresses, all nicely made up, and covered with a clean white counterpane; the bed-posts, drawers, and chairs bearing the polish of well-rubbed mahogany. I felt a desire to pillow my head in this hut for the night, it not having fallen to my lot, since I left England, to repose on so inviting a couch. The value of the whole was tenfold augmented by the contented slaves being able to say, “All this we feel to be our own.”

Too often in regarding the countenance of a slave, it may be observed that

“Dark Melancholy sits, and round her throws A death-like silence, and a dread repose,”

but throughout Mr. Dougan’s happy gang the more striking features are those of mirth and glee; for, here, the merry dance and jovial song prevail, and all are votaries to joy and harmony.

Before the doors of the huts, and around these peaceful dwellings were seen great numbers of pigs, and poultry, which the slaves are allowed to raise for their own profit; and from the stock, thus bred in the negro-yard, the master usually purchases the provisions of his table, paying the common price for which they would be sold at the market.

The conduct of Mr. Osborn to his slaves, and, indeed, of many others I might mention, is also very highly commendable. The negroes at Arcadia have much cause of contentment; their happiness and welfare being guarded with a parental care. Were all masters kind and humane as Mr. Dougan, and his neighbour, the peasants of Europe, although blessed with freedom, might sigh, in vain, for the happiness enjoyed——by slaves.

Owing to the tide being out, at the time we returned, there was not sufficient water in the canal to admit of our going down in the boat; we were compelled, therefore, to walk nearly two miles before we embarked. During this walk, we were almost in danger of being devoured by the musquitoes, which attacked us in such daring hosts that we were obliged to carry small boughs in our hands, and to continue, the whole time, beating them from our legs and faces.