Part 19

This expertness is much derived from an early habit of bathing, or, as it might be termed, exercising in the water; and it renders the negroes peculiarly useful in cases of accident at sea, or in the harbour. Let them have a good boat, or canoe, and it will scarcely happen that they can be drowned. Even if they are upset, and the boat turned keel upwards, they rise at her sides, and there continue to swim or paddle until they again _right her_, then, bailing out the water, resume their seats and proceed as if nothing had happened.

A sense of cleanliness attaches to their love of the water, for we not only see them often in the sea, but frequently also washing themselves in the rivulets. It seems to form one of their favorite amusements to stand in the sea, or a river, and to take up water in both hands and pour it over their shoulders down their backs. This is practised both by the men and women, and is one of their most frequent methods of bathing.

Another mark of cleanliness also prevails among them which was less to be expected; viz. that of paying great attention to their teeth. The chew-stick which is here employed for cleaning the teeth is far more in use among the negroes, than the tooth-brush among the lower classes of people in England.

Our adroit negro, amidst his many gambols in the water, dived often to the bottom of the sea, and brought up a handful of sand. With this rough dentifrice he soundly scrubbed his teeth, and by way of essence to wash it off, plunged down, for another handful, with his mouth wide open; thus, alternately, repeating the rubbing, and sea-water washing, until his teeth were duly contrasted with his ebon countenance.

LETTER XXXVI.

Ship Grenada, at Sea, April 17.

The apprehended division of our long associated mess has taken place! It has fallen to my lot to join an expedition under General Whyte, and I am separated from my friends, perhaps soon to meet again, perhaps to meet no more! To what quarter we are bound is held in secrecy. Curaçoa, Demarara, St. Eustatia, and various other destinations have been conjectured, but, from the course we are at present steering, the coast of Guiana seems to be most probable.

We were ordered away at very short notice. On returning to the Lord Sheffield after my visit at the hospital on the morning of the 14th inst. I received instructions to embark on board the Grenada transport before twelve o’clock; and to take the direction of a detachment of the hospital staff, appointed to accompany a division of the army, which was to sail that afternoon, on secret service.

Being advised to carry with me as little baggage as possible, and assured that I might expect soon to return, in order to proceed with General Whyte, to St. Domingo, I made up a soldier’s kit of apparel, and left all my heavier packages, under the care of my late comrades, in the Lord Sheffield.

The Grenada is a very fine vessel, and sails remarkably well. Like the Lord Sheffield, she is a West India trader, engaged as a transport only for the passage out, and as soon as she has completed her voyage is to return to England laden with sugar, cotton, or other colonial produce.

I thought myself fortunate in being appointed to so good a ship; and, hearing that troops were to be thickly stowed on board the different vessels of the expedition, anticipated much of comfort upon the passage, by observing that the Grenada was free from the crowd I had expected to meet. But these self-gratulations proved to be somewhat premature. Upwards of three hundred troops arrived quickly after, and a scene of confusion was introduced surpassing all that even fancy had created.

The lieutenant-colonel commanding the regiment, the commanding officer of artillery, and myself, are the only officers who have the accommodation of separate births: all the others are obliged to lie down together without beds, or mattresses, upon the bare decks of the cabins, and even there, they are compelled to stow closely, in order to make room for them all.

On the upper deck the soldiers are still more thickly spread; they sleep without any other covering than their clothes of the day, using the arm, or the knapsack as a pillow; and so near do they lie to each other, that a foot can scarcely find place between them. Happily the wind is very favorable, and we are led to believe that whithersoever we may be bound the voyage will not be long. Having the steady breeze of the _trades_ on her quarter, the ship is worked almost wholly by the helm, and we seldom have need to shift the sails—occasional bracing being all that is necessary. If the weather had been bad, and the wind against us, you will readily imagine the sad state we must have been in, with such a body of men, sick, and ill, and crowded in every quarter of the vessel. Even as it is, we have much difficulty in keeping them sufficiently clean to preserve them in health. They lie down in their clothes at night, where they have been standing or sitting the whole of the day, and from the deck being their seat, their dinner-board, and their bed, all about them soon grows unwholesome and offensive: pieces of broken food, sloppings of broth, or grog, bits of meat, old bones, crumbs of biscuit, and various other kinds of filth collect under them, and about their clothing; and, from the great heat of climate, and still more unpleasant heat occasioned by the crowd, this dirty commixture soon becomes sour and fetid; and would, in a short time, generate disease, were not the rules of cleanliness strictly enforced.

Besides those who sleep upon the open deck above, there is another multitude in a more confined situation between decks. Observing this place to be very close, and not sufficiently ventilated, I have recommended that the troops should be divided into three watches, and that two of the three divisions should be kept constantly upon the open deck, relieving those below every four hours. Likewise as a further means of prevention I have advised that all the men should bathe every morning, while the decks are thoroughly washed and cleaned. Fortunately I am supported in this by the approbation of Colonel Tilson, who is exceedingly zealous to do every thing that can preserve the health of the soldiers, and has issued his orders accordingly.

We have contrived a method whereby the bathing is effected with less trouble than was at first apprehended. The men are regularly assembled by companies upon the quarter-deck, at an early hour of the morning, and there undressing, two at a time, they go down to the waist of the ship, and remain at the bottom of the step leading from the quarter-deck, until two or three buckets of water have been dashed upon them by some of their comrades standing directly above them upon the edge of the deck, others being stationed at the sides to draw up water for the purpose. After being thus washed, they move on to the forecastle to dress themselves, others following in succession until the whole are bathed.

We find some difficulty in establishing this practice, but I hope in a few days to see it brought to the regularity of a military movement: the benefit of it is not confined merely to cleanliness of person, for, while the bathing is going on, the decks, where the soldiers sleep, are thoroughly swept and washed. Its utility is also further extended, in the general movement it creates, and the refreshing coolness it brings to every one on board. Were the voyage to be long, our experience of the few past days seems to assure us that this daily washing would be our best, and, perhaps, our only preservative against sickness.

The expedition consists of about thirteen hundred men of the 39th, 93d, and 99th regiments commanded by Lieutenant-colonels Tilson, Hislop, and Gammell, and a party of artillery, under the command of Captain Bagot. The squadron of the fleet, employed with us, is under Commodore Parr, and consists of the Malabar of 50 guns, La Pique, Le Babet, and the Undaunted frigates; to which are added, the Grenada armed transport, with several sloops, and schooners.

I must not forget to note that I am now addressing you from the opposite side of the sun. This day, in latitude 9° 27′, we passed immediately under that burning orb, receiving his perpendicular rays directly upon our heads. I have nothing further to tell you on this occasion. His southern face seems neither hotter nor colder, brighter nor darker, than his northern. The only striking circumstance arises from the novelty of looking to the north at noon, to take our meridian; and habit will be required to reconcile this seeming inconsistency. While you at mid-day look south for the sun, I shall look north, and although our noon will be different, this circumstance will often, mentally, place me with you. The effect, I wish to flatter myself, will be reciprocal, and, attracted by his opposite sides, the cheering sun will be frequently the medium of associating us in mutual sympathy.

Adieu.

LETTER XXXVII.

At Sea, April 20.

Our destination is no longer a secret! The captain went yesterday on board the commodore, and received his instructions; when the Dutch colonies, upon the coast of Guiana, were avowed to be the object of our expedition.

In the evening we came into thick water indicating our approach to the shore; but no land could be perceived even from the top-gallant-mast-head. This morning the sea was still more muddy, of a yellowish colour, and, comparatively, very shallow. Land was unquestionably near, but, still, not visible. In the course of the day trees were seen from the masthead, and we came to anchor only a few leagues from them; but, even yet, without being able to see the soil on which they grew. It is common to descry a streak at the horizon, or a kind of line, or fixed point in the clouds, denoting the coast which a vessel approaches, long before it reaches it; but, here, we are in muddy water, near the colony, with trees in view, without being able to distinguish any other mark of the territory before us. It seems to be a peculiar shore, the water being very thick and shallow at a great distance from the land.

Orders are issued for three days’ provisions to be cooked, and for the troops to hold themselves in readiness for immediate debarkation. They have, consequently, been paraded this evening upon deck; their arms and accoutrements cleaned and inspected; and all put in a state for action. The soldiers are forewarned in general orders that all irregular conduct, towards the inhabitants, on landing, will subject them to certain punishment and disgrace; and plunder is prohibited on pain of death. The field-artillery, with carriages, sponges, ammunition, and all the necessary apparatus have been put into boats, this evening, from our ship, preparatory to being conveyed on shore with the troops in the morning, and, after a day of great hurry and labour, all is in readiness for leaving the vessel.

Instructions are given concerning the plan of attack by the troops, and the stations to be taken by the different ships; and every thing seems to imply a busy morrow; yet, notwithstanding our vessel is to be at a post of some danger, I shall hope to note to you the detail of our proceedings in a future letter. At present, I seek my birth, cordially bidding you ... good night!

LETTER XXXVIII.

Stabroek, April 23.

I have again the pleasure of addressing you upon terra firma, and of telling you that the united colony of Essequibo and Demarara is ours. All being in readiness for landing on the morning of the 21st, the troops were ordered to proceed on shore, with the earliest tide, and the frigates, with the Grenada, and the slave-ship, were directed to take their stations before the fort, at the entrance of the river. The larger ships were unable to approach near enough to give any protection to the landing of the troops and stores, which were put on board a little fleet of light vessels, some of which were brought with us from Barbadoes for the purpose; and some taken after our arrival upon the coast; but it proved unfortunately that even these, light as they were, drew too much water for this shore; for, about five o’clock, we had the mortification to learn that our advanced fleet was fast aground, deep fixed in mud. Finding the small vessels to be in this dilemma, our ship, together with others which had sailed through a very confined channel towards the fort, came to anchor near the entrance of the Demarara river, having the fort, also a Dutch frigate, and a number of shipping in full view before them. This accident might have proved of serious consequence, as the troops were compelled to remain until the next flood tide; being unable either to reach the shore, or to return.

In the events of this day we had a further proof of the extreme uncertainty of military operations, more particularly when connected with, or dependent upon maritime movements. In the morning we had every prospect of seeing the troops on shore, the fort taken, and the whole affair decided before we slept: but, in the evening, chagrin and disappointment were our lot: the great expectations of the day having ended in bringing some of the ships to an anchor off the mouth of the river, and placing the troops in an unhappy situation, from which it was out of the power of man to extricate them, until the unerring operations of nature should send back the waters of the ocean to their relief.

The ships were anchored so near the river as to prevent the escape of any of the enemy’s vessels, and the troops on board were ordered to lie on their arms, upon deck, during the night, to prevent a surprise; and to be in readiness to act against the fort, at any hour they might be called upon.

At eight o’clock the following morning the flag of truce which had been sent off to the fort returned. Due secrecy was of course observed regarding the reply; and presently the boat was again despatched to the fort; but as the little schooner fleet was ordered to return to the ships, at the flowing of the tide, instead of proceeding to land the troops; and as no orders were given to advance to the attack of the fort, it was presumed that the answer had not been hostile.

Between ten and eleven o’clock the flag of truce again returned, and it was then announced that the capitulation was accepted, and that the fort was to surrender immediately to our troops. A party was accordingly detached, to take possession of a post agreed upon, and the whole garrison was to march out at four o’clock. Consequently, by evening, we found ourselves fully established in Fort William Frederic, the strongest, and almost the only defence of the colony.

Notwithstanding our strict observance of cleanliness, and all our care to prevent disease, I am sorry to remark, that numbers of the soldiers fell sick on the passage: but, in mentioning this, I ought to observe that the 39th and 99th regiments were mostly composed of draughts from various other corps, consisting principally of old men, and unseasoned boys, who had been collected together, not according to the best regulations of the recruiting service; and also, that multitudes of them had been sick on the passage from Cork to Barbadoes, consequently many (of those now ill) are only suffering from a relapse of former disease.

It is worthy of remark that, although upon the passage, not a morning had passed without a considerable number being reported for the sick list, we had not one new patient the day it was intended to make the landing; but, on the contrary, the list of the preceding day was diminished. The spirit of attack seemed to operate as a specific remedy. Many actually recovered, and were allowed to join their companies; others stole off, without reporting themselves, fearful the doctors should not allow that they were well enough to be reported efficient; and others, far too weak to bear arms, came feebly from under the awning of the quarter-deck, which had been converted into a sick-ward for their accommodation, and begged of me to permit them to go on shore to join their comrades in the battle. The idea of going into action proved a more salutary stimulus than could be found in the Pharmacopœia of the college of physicians; and the sound of the destructive cannon promised to be a more healing balm, than the mildest emollient prescribed by the doctor.

In adverting to the country, from whence I address you, I may observe that circumstances attended our landing, which were not calculated to create a favorable impression of the colony. The day being wet, we were completely drenched with rain in the boats, and then set on shore in the midst of a heavy shower. From the landing-place we had nearly a mile to walk to the town; and such a walk, perhaps, could not have been found in any other country—Holland excepted. From the nature of the road it was almost impossible to maintain ourselves upon our feet for a single step. Fatigued by heat, we had to drag along in the rain, either ancle-deep in mud, or slipping and sliding about upon a wet surface of clay.

We arrived at the town in a sadly wet and bespattered condition; but here we found our feet relieved by stepping on a narrow causeway, paved with small bricks put edgewise into the ground. This was a glad change to our trembling limbs, and now, from requiring less heed to our steps, and the rain ceasing, we had an opportunity of looking round, to observe the general appearance of the town and the country. I could have fancied myself in Holland. The land appeared as one wide flat, intersected with dykes and canals; the roads mere banks of mud and clay, thrown from the ditches at their sides; and the houses bedaubed with tawdry colours, like Dutch toys, giving the whole a striking resemblance to the mother-country.

The town is simply two long rows of houses, built very distant from each other, with a wide green in the middle, by way of street. It is more than a mile in length, running in a line from the river back to the forest—the most inconvenient form that could have been contrived, as it places most of the buildings far away from the river, and deprives them of the great advantages, for trade, which they might have had by being erected parallel with the course of the water. To remedy this defect canals and ditches have been cut, at the backs of the houses, which are perhaps the worst neighbours the inhabitants could have near them, for, being the receptacles of mud, and all the filthy drainings of the town, and only partially emptied by the reflux of the tide, they become highly offensive, and tend to generate disease. The causeway of bricks is continued throughout the whole length of the street; but the carriage-road is of mere clay and mud.

After waiting upon the General, at the government-house, I lost no time in proceeding upon duty; and, without delay, went out in search of some building to convert into an hospital, or place of accommodation for the sick. This would have led to a new journey, by way of the wet and slippery road, to the fort; but, among the happy events of the day, fortune threw me in the path of a gentleman residing in the town, who, upon observing me toiling through the mud and clay, insisted upon my taking his boat and slaves to convey me to the fort, by way of the river, assuring me that to walk so far might be a dangerous excess of fatigue; and, further, directing his negroes to wait, and bring me back to his house, to dinner. Perhaps I was little inclined to refuse, but it would have been difficult to resist the pressing civility with which the accommodation was offered; accordingly, I accepted the boat, and, afterwards, returned and ate of boiled fowl, and a roasted kid. During dinner the friendly invitation was extended to a request, almost amounting to a demand, from both the gentleman and lady of the table, that I would make their dwelling my home so long as the service should require my continuance at Stabroek. Thus has fortune, at once, established me in good quarters in the enemy’s country, without a billet, and even without the trouble of seeking them.

LETTER XXXIX.

Demarara, April 28.

Having secure possession of the colony of Essequibo and Demarara, a division of our armament has been detached to the attack of the adjoining settlement of Berbische, which separates us from Surinam.

The whole of the coast not being yet cleared of its wild woods, no regular road is established between the two colonies, although Demarara and Berbische lie contiguous to each other: hence this, like most of our expeditions, is exposed to all the uncertainties of the wind and the ocean. The troops were embarked on board small sloops and schooners, calculated for the shallow waters of this muddy coast; and it is expected that they will reach Berbische to-morrow evening, or the following morning, the distance between the two great rivers, which give names to the colonies, being but little more than twenty leagues.

We are taught that it will not be possible to procure fresh animal provisions in these colonies, in the quantity necessary for the army; but it is suggested that we may obtain a supply from the Spaniards, who have great numbers of wild cattle, in the island of Trinidad, and upon the neighbouring coast of Oronoko. Vegetables and fruits we find, here, in great plenty. The market, as at Barbadoes, is held on Sunday, and is supplied by means of what the negroes either grow, or steal.

Being anxious to provide for the sick, in the best way that was in my power, I became, on Sunday last, quite a forestaller of the market. It will, perhaps, surprise you to learn that among our purchases I bought a hamper of pines, nearly as heavy as a negro could carry, for the small sum of _three bits_. On counting them over, I found that I had seventeen large pines for fifteen-pence, being somewhat less than a penny each.