Part 11

We rode slowly as far as Dr. Hinde’s, where we were joined by the Doctor, and Mr. Abel Hinde, and Mr. Jordan. Upon our arrival at Col. Williams’s, we found the breakfast board most bounteously spread, and the Colonel prepared to take an active part in the expedition. After breakfasting with good appetite, and being well rested and refreshed, we left the “social rock,” to pursue our route, in the true marooning spirit; making a home whenever we might require it, or wheresoever we could find it. The first object which arrested our attention was a very extensive subterraneous cavern, called “Harrison’s Cave.” This is within about half a mile of the Colonel’s house, and is one of the greatest natural curiosities of the island. Its hidden mouth opens among the rocks of a deep narrow gully, between two lofty hills. There we forsook the light of day, and descended into the dark regions of the earth, in order to advance to the utmost extent of the gloomy depths before us. Our way was intricate and obscure. Taking with us three negroes, with lights, we descended by narrow windings, or spacious openings, by broad walks, or narrow crooked paths, over loose stones, or rocky steeps. At one moment we found ourselves under a fine arch or dome, hung with clusters of petrifactions; at another we were in a narrow aisle, whose walls, and impending vault, faintly glittered with multiform incrustations. By the senses of feeling and hearing, more than by the sight, we judged of the varying uncertainty of our situation, and advanced with cautious step—now confined, now in more open space, until we reached a spot where we came to a gentle rivulet, gliding along its subterraneous bed in a pure and crystal stream. A few soft rays, gleaming from above, silvered over the surface, and exhibited all the purity of this limpid current: while the sky, which appeared at a circular opening, cut through the soil and the solid rock, to the depth of thirty or forty fathoms, resembled the pale moon, or the sun divested of his effulgent beams.

Together with our artificial lights, the mild rays from this opening, penetrating to the very bottom of the cave, displayed the hanging tubes of stalactites, and the various surrounding petrifactions, in a manner highly interesting and picturesque.

“Here incrustations strike the eyes: There spangled domes, with lustre bright, Beam down an artificial light; Whence pensile hang, in gothic show, Descending to the sands below, Fantastic forms——.”

After drinking of the pellucid stream, and examining the pendent vaults, the arches, and recesses around, we proceeded onwards to a considerable distance beyond the rivulet, until the broken path became more and more intricate, and the gloomy cavern seemed to close upon us in endless and impenetrable obscurity. The feeble taper now scarcely illumined the spot whereon we stood, while all beyond us was buried in perfect darkness. The path grew still more uncertain and irregular: here we bent our persons almost double to pass under a rugged arch; there we descended a sudden steep; then, again, we had to scramble up a craggy and projecting mass: presently we turned the sharp corner of a rock, into a narrow passage, between huge walls of stone; next we opened into a more spacious vault: soon our way was again confined, or our heads struck the hanging petrifactions above. At one moment we trod on the firm rock, at another our steppings were upon loose stones, and, perhaps, the following instant we found our feet in water, or upon damp earth; now we seemed to have reached the utmost depth of the cave; then we stepped suddenly into a wide space: at length we reached the remotest extent which had been explored; but unlimited windings seemed yet to lead on, in terrific gloom, to the very centre of the earth.

Having only two or three open tapers, we did not feel it prudent to venture farther into unexplored passages; more particularly as the road we had passed, had been so intricate and perplexing that, in case of any accident occurring to extinguish our light, we might not have been able to trace our way back, to the mouth of the cave. Hence we declined proceeding any deeper into this abode of darkness and silence, and turned about to retrace our steps to a brighter scene. Feeling better assured respecting our path, we now contemplated more leisurely the stupendous walls of rock, the varied incrustations, the ponderous masses of stalactites, the multitudes of madripores, and the other calcareous concretions, formed by nature from the limpid droppings which were seen on all sides, also above and below, and hanging round about our heads in an endless variety of fantastic figures.

The air, in most parts of the cave, was confined and warm, but, occasionally, we felt it damp and chilly. On our way back, at a narrow pass, where we had been obliged to bend low the knee in order to creep under the arch of a rock, we perceived it rush in strong current: here the whole of our lights were suddenly extinguished, and we were shut in the dark and hollow bowels of the earth, unable to explore our path to the mouth of the cavern. Unhappily, too, we were confined in a damp current of air, and compelled to stand shivering with cold, whilst Col. Williams and the negroes, who had been often in the cave, felt their road out, at great hazard, to procure new lights. We remained buried in the silent seclusion of this subterraneous abode for nearly an hour; and when the distant sound of our conductor’s feet returned upon our ears, and the soft glimmerings of light again stole into the profound depths of the cave, the effect was uncommonly striking. Watching carefully as the negroes approached, we saw the rays of light gleam upon their dark skins, gilding them as it were with fire. Presently we lost them in obscurity, then again, the imperfect rays darted towards us, and at one moment we saw indistinctly the blacks descend from a rock, while at another we perceived them suddenly rise as from the deep. Again the light disappeared, and we only heard, their distant hollow-sounding steps: then they escaped from a narrow passage or confined recess, and were seen stepping forth under an open and spacious arch, where the heavy rocks, the vaulted dome, the petrified columns, the massy tubes, and impending clusters of glittering concretions, together with the solemn echo, the fiery blackness of the negroes, and the spreading rays of artificial light, partially absorbed, or feebly reflected, produced an effect, which was at once picturesque, and awful.

In such a situation, buried in darkness and sepulchral silence, but little assistance of the imagination was required to create pictures of horror, or to figure the mighty abode of terrors and punishments. When our eyes first caught these Africans, at a distant part of the cavern, it scarcely needed the aid of fancy to convert them into demons of still lower regions, approaching us with the tormenting flames of their dread parent! Such an association did actually occupy our minds, as, in stillness, we watched the advance of these seeming spirits of darkness; and by the time these sable beings had reached us, we had so powerfully traced the images of the black spirits below, that it was difficult to persuade ourselves they were only black bodies, bringing us lights from above.

But the voice of the friendly Colonel, who accompanied them, soon roused us from our reverie, and reminded us that, however dismal our abode, it was not _that bourn from whence no traveller returns_! We now hastened to change our gloomy dwelling for brighter regions, but were obliged to tread our way in cautious steps towards the exit of the cave; for the path was intricate and perilous. As we came near to the opening we extinguished the artificial lights, in order to enjoy the appearance of the soft rays which stole in at the entrance of the cave, richly gilding the rocks and petrifactions, and gradually, though irregularly, growing stronger until we again met the broad glare of day.

On our first escaping from the cave, the powerful light of the sun, falling through the widely dilated pupils of our eyes, produced a considerable degree of pain; we therefore remained a short time in the gully before we again mounted our horses, to proceed to a point called Sugar-hill, from whence we obtained an extensive and very beautiful view of the parishes of Scotland, and the romantic parts of the island which we had before visited.

Near Sugar-hill we called at a cottage to give directions for some oranges to be sent down to the “Bay-house,” a place we were to visit _en route_. Here we met with two fair cottagers, who, though less ruddy, were not less animated than the lovely and blooming peasants of Old England: they were the healthy-looking daughters of the old dame of the house, and notwithstanding the want of rosy tint, had pretty English faces.

After enjoying the fine views from Sugar-hill, and witnessing the smiles of the neighbouring cottagers, we were conducted to the home of a Mr. Haynes, where we met with a warm Barbadoes greeting, and were welcomed with frankness and a most cordial hospitality. We rested only a few minutes, when Mr. Haynes and his son joined our party, and accompanied us to an adjoining estate called “Joe’s River,” a most delightful spot, and quite the elysium of the island. Until lately it has been in the possession of the Rev. Mr. H., a man of much genius and learning, whose loss is deeply regretted by all, but more particularly by the literati of the colony. He was a scientific botanist, and as much respected for his extensive information, as for his friendly and social disposition.

The house is finely situated on elevated ground near the sea, surrounded with extensive plantations of the choicest trees and tropical fruits. The garden and orchard had long been the great objects of their owner’s care. It was his wish to procure an useful and ornamental assemblage of all the rare fruits and plants of the tropical regions: and, in this intention, he had already obtained a numerous and valuable collection, which, through his industry and perseverance, was almost daily increasing. His private hours were passed in literary pursuits. Much of his time was devoted to his favorite study of Natural History, and to realizing the improvements suggested by his contemplations. In society he was convivial: to his slaves he was parental and humane; and, possessing great urbanity, he was kind and obliging to all.

This once happy dwelling, which was graced by hospitality and benevolence, enriched by industry, and dignified by science: this delightful home, so lately the pride and ornament of the island, is now left to fall into ruin and decay. The broken walls, the hidden paths, the shattered doors and windows, the wild, neglected trees, the obtrusive weeds, and half-covered walks all bespeak, in doleful decline, its former beauty; and truly may it be said that Joe’s river mourns in fast-withering sorrow, the afflicting loss of its distinguished proprietor.

We now proceeded to the sea-side, and our next place of call was a cottage termed the Bay-house, a neat little building erected by Mr. Haynes, under a rock upon the open beach, to serve as a home of rest and refreshment for such of his friends, and, in great truth may we say, his friends’ friends, who may chance to visit the windward coast. We found it the rendezvous of entertainment and repose. Intimation had been conveyed to the generous owner that it might perhaps be in our way to make a short visit at his villa, and he had availed himself of the information to provide a rich and bountiful repast. All the good things of the island seemed to have been collected. The whole neighbourhood had been ransacked for our accommodation. The best productions, from every quarter, were directed hither to supply the hospitable board. Cook, butler, fishermen, servants, and slaves were assembled to give their assistance. The net was thrown into the sea immediately before the door, and the fishes taken, were presently smoking upon the table; fruits, wines, meat, poultry, and vegetables were brought in profusion, and made only a part of the feast of this little cottage, built by generous hospitality, and dedicated to friendship and social harmony. A supply of provisions was likewise procured for the refreshment of our slaves and horses, and these were regaled with no less liberality than their masters—the friendly courtesies of the “Bay-house” being extended equally to all.

Punch and mandram were served to us before dinner, the one to quench our thirst, the other to provoke the appetite; and soon afterwards were set before us a variety of dishes, consisting of boiled, stewed, and broiled fish, a cold roasted lamb, a cold turkey, fowls, tongues, cray-fish, and a multitude of other good things. After we had dined very abundantly the table was covered with punch, many excellent wines, and several species of fruits. Among the latter was a large pine, the first of which we had partaken in the island. I do not know that the flavour was superior to that of some of the pines I have tasted from the hot-houses of England, but it was certainly very delicious.

Having plenteously refreshed ourselves, and the slaves and horses being well fed and rested, we called the negroes from their dessert of rolling and basking in the sun, and proceeded upon our journey. To our great surprise, at the very moment the horses appeared at the door for our departure, a large dish of sprats, smoking from the gridiron, and an immense bowl of milk-punch, were set before us. This was quite a West Indian addition to the repast. Having eaten very heartily, and indulged in copious libations, we had already done even too much in the way of feasting, but, to my great astonishment, some of the party partook with a renewal of appetite which was rather indicative of sitting down to dinner, than of rising from table! At two o’clock we had commenced with punch; after which came the mandram; at three was served the dinner: busy eating and drinking continued until five; and then appeared the sprats, and bowl of milk-punch: thus did nearly four hours pass in high banqueting and conviviality at this social cottage. At length, due honors having been done to the punch and sprats, we again put ourselves _en route_. We rode along the sands to a spot called Beersheba, which is so enclosed among the rocks as to form a natural bathing-place. From thence we proceeded to a large mass of rocks, lying in the water, near the edge of the sea, where we had the expectation of viewing a curious natural production called the animal flower. But here we were disappointed; for the tide being in, the sea running high, and the wind strong, we were unable to reach the spot where this phænomenon of nature is usually found.

Although we lost the opportunity of seeing it, I cannot refrain from giving you the account of this uncommon _flower_, and its dwelling-place, as communicated to us by our brother Maroons.—Within a deep cave, formed in the rock, is a spacious natural basin of water, which is about eleven feet above low-water mark. It is collected from the sea beating into the cave in rough weather; and hence, that which lodges in this basin is entirely salt water, except a very small admixture from rain, which distils in drops, through the small openings of the rock. In the middle of the basin is a large stone, or piece of detached rock, which is usually covered with water. About this stone, and adhering to its sides, as if growing therefrom, are seen numbers of apparently beautiful flowers, finely variegated in vivid colours, and of radiated form, somewhat resembling the petals of the garden marigold. Some are of a pale yellow, or a light straw colour, tinged with green; others of a greyish purple, intermixed with black spots.

To gather any of these seeming flowers is a task of difficulty, for when the hand approaches them, the petals instantly contract, and become invisible. If left undisturbed they re-appear, in the course of a few minutes, gradually expanding into their former bloom; but again retire, with surprising quickness, on the approach of the hand, a cane, or any other body that may be directed towards them.

This circumstance, as you will expect, led to early investigation regarding the nature of this singular flower, when, instead of a fine blowing vegetable, it was discovered to be an animal that was decorated with all this gaiety of colouring; and hence the name “animal flower.”

On examination the body is found to be of a blackish hue, less than an inch in length, and about a quarter of an inch in thickness. It adheres by one end to the rock, and from the other extremity, which projects outwards, are thrown off a number of fine membranous filaments, in a radiated and circular form: and from the point or head, at the centre of this circle, project four long slender fibrils, not unlike the legs of the spider. Thus, while the body appears as the calyx, and the expanded filaments as the petals, these fibrils serving as the stamina, complete the resemblance of a regular and beautiful flower.

It has been suggested, that as this animal is almost wholly deprived of locomotive power, the fine colours, given to the membranous filaments, serve as a provision of nature, to allure and bring within its reach the smaller insects, upon which it feeds; and from the quick spontaneous motion of the fine central threads, from side to side, or round the whole border of the radiated circle, these may be designed to act as forceps, for conveying the food to the mouth, the extended filaments serving as _antennæ_, or feelers, to discover the prey, and from their contractile power enclosing it, when seized, as in a purse, or sacculus, until it is devoured. With much disappointment at not being able to see this natural curiosity of the island, we left the coast, in order to ascend the mountainous summit, called Hackleton’s cliff; the only spot which vies with Hilloughby hill in being the loftiest point of Barbadoes. The path was rugged, and singularly precipitous. To walk up it was a degree of fatigue which, it was said, Europeans ought not to encounter; and to ride was not free from danger, besides being a cruel labour to the horses. But as it was contended that they would better support the toil than ourselves, we were induced to continue upon our saddles, although, indeed, with much difficulty, from the rapidity of the ascent. By stopping frequently to let the poor animals recover their breath, we did, at length, reach the summit; but never before did I sit upon a horse to climb so steep a mountain. In the Alps of Switzerland, and of Savoy, it is not unusual to ride small horses, called Mountain Ponies, over the lesser hills; but previous to ascending the more difficult acclivities these are always changed for mules; with which I have often ventured up ascents even more nearly perpendicular than Hackleton’s Cliff: but the mule is a more quiet, a more enduring, and more patient animal: he is not irascible and impetuous like the horse, and moreover, in such situations, he is so accustomed to climbing, that he appears sensible of all the dangers around him, and is careful in every movement, to consult the safety of himself and his rider. He looks with caution at each stepping, and he ascertains that his foot will be secure, before he ventures to bear upon it the weight of his body.

In the Alps a mule will carry you up mountains which are so steep as to appear from the valley quite perpendicular, proceeding by a narrow path, in which he cannot possibly turn himself round, and passing close by the edge of the most terrific precipices, ascending only by means of irregular holes made among the roots of trees, or steppings roughly broken in the rock; yet have you only to give him the bridle and sit still, holding by the mane to keep yourself from slipping back, and you are in the utmost safety.

But I must return from the Alps, and tell you that in consequence of our feasting delay at the Bay-house, and the time required to go up the cliff, we found the evening stealing upon us before we came to the top. The sun had already sunk too low, to gild the landscape with its rays, or to enliven the view of the ocean, with the brightness which shone upon our visit to Hilloughby hill; but, from what I have already said of that, your imagination will readily suggest to you the beauties of the scenery, and the extent of the prospect from Hackleton’s Cliff. From viewing the delightful variety around, at the decline of day, the effect was new and pleasing. A soft and placid picture succeeded to the strong and vivid colours of noon: the landscape, though less bright, was not, perhaps, less interesting; and, as we had visited Mount Hilloughby in a full glow of light, we did not lament that we saw Hackleton’s Cliff under the retiring beams of evening.

Unexpectedly we found the top of this elevated spot to be a wide-extended surface, covered with herbage, and so gradually declining on the opposite side, that on turning our faces from the steep precipice of the east, we appeared to be upon a broad plain, instead of a rude summit, which formed nearly the highest point of land in the island. On the cliff we visited the estate of Mr. Stewart, at which is a pleasant house, delightfully situated, near the most lofty part of this high land, bearing no appearance of being so raised, or within so short a distance of the stupendous precipice which is near it.

Ginger is the produce of the plantation. We saw great quantities of this root spread before the house, upon a large square neatly paved, for the purpose of drying it, preparatory to sending it to market.