Chapter 9 of 64 · 3938 words · ~20 min read

Part 9

From the gilling machine the wool comes off in soft strands. Four strands are then taken to the balling machine, where is made a large ball, ready for the combing. It takes eighteen of these balls to make a set or fill up the comb.

The dyeing is done in three ways--in the top, in the thread or skein after being spun, or in the piece after it is woven. If the wool is to be stock dyed--that is, dyed in the top--it is sent to the dyehouse to be dyed the shade required, and afterwards returned to be gilled and recombed ready for the drawing.

[Illustration:

WORSTED CARDING]

Up to this point there has been no twist given to the wool, nor any appearance of a thread. The top, the soft untwisted end, is now run through the drawing machine, the process sometimes consisting of nine distinct operations, and is drawn and redrawn until reduced to the size required for its special purpose; and the stock is then delivered to the spinning room on spools, and is called roving.

[Illustration:

GILLING AFTER CARDING]

[Illustration:

COMBING]

In the spinning the process of drawing continues until the twisted thread is reduced to the size required, which, either singly or twisted together in two, three or four strands, is to be used for weaving.

The yarn is then very carefully inspected, and all imperfections which would show in the finished goods are removed, and, if it is to be dyed in the skein, the yarn is taken to a reel, where the skeins are made ready for the dyehouse.

~HOW CLOTH IS MADE FROM WOOL~

The threads must now be prepared for the loom, in order that the actual weaving may be done. The thread is used in two ways in weaving--as warp, which is the thread which runs lengthwise of the cloth, and as filling, or woof, which runs across the cloth from side to side.

[Illustration:

GILLING AND MAKING TOP AFTER COMBING]

The warp threads--the threads which run lengthwise of the cloth--are sized and wound upon large reels, and from these transferred to a large wooden roll called the warp beam, which holds all the warp threads, usually several thousands.

The filling threads are put on shuttle bobbins and placed in the shuttles to be refilled by the operatives as required, and as the weaving progresses.

The warp beam is then taken to the drawing-in room, where these several thousand threads are drawn through wire heddles in a frame called the harness, then drawn through a wire reed. The completed warp beam is now ready for the loom.

The harnesses are placed in the loom, and by means of what is called the “head-motion,” part of the threads are raised and part are lowered. This allows the filling shuttles to pass above some threads and below others, filling out the pattern required.

The cloth, having been made in such length as is desired, is taken from the loom, and, by what is known as burling and mending, any knots or threads woven in wrongly are removed, and any imperfections which have been discovered through a careful examination are corrected.

The web or cloth is scoured or washed and the oil and any foreign matter removed.

Undressed fabrics would now be fulled. This consists of running cloth through a fulling machine, where, moistened with a specially prepared soap, it is subjected to a great pressure and pounding, which aids in giving the required finish.

There are different kinds of finishes which require different treatments, and it would be impracticable for us to dwell in detail upon this matter here.

If dyed in the piece, the web or cloth is taken to the dyehouse and dyed. It is thoroughly rinsed, all moisture is extracted from it, and it is dried.

After drying the cloth is run through a machine by which it is brushed and sheared, the brushing lifting the long fibres, and the shearing cutting them off at even length. The cloth is put through the press, which irons it out, giving it the lustre or the finish that is desired. It is examined again for further imperfections, and if such have occurred they are corrected.

Measuring, weighing, rolling and tagging follow, and the cloth is packed and ready for the market.

Woolens are made from short staple wools, known as clothing wools, and in the finished woolens the fibres of the yarns cross or are mingled together. In the case of woolens, after the scouring, it is frequently necessary to remove burrs or other vegetable matter from the wool. To accomplish this the wool is dipped in a bath of chloride of aluminum or sulphuric acid solution, then the moisture is extracted and the wool is put through a drier, where the temperature must be at least 212 degrees. This heat carbonizes the foreign substance, but has little effect on the animal fibres of the wool.

[Illustration: FINISHING BOX

ENGLISH DRAWING

GILLING

ENGLISH DRAWING

Next, an ingenious machine called the burr picker removes the burr.

Sometimes there is to be a blend of the wool with other stocks, and in that case the several different wools are mixed together.

[Illustration: GILLING, FIRST OPERATION

ENGLISH DRAWING

REDUCER

ENGLISH DRAWING

~HOW WOOLEN CLOTH IS DYED~

Dyeing of woolens is done in three ways--in the wool, in the thread after it is spun, or in the piece after it is woven. If the wool is to be “dyed in the wool” it is now conveyed to the dyehouse, dyed the shade required, then returned to the mixing room.

During the process of scouring, when the yolk was removed, a large part of the natural oil of the wool was also eliminated, and, in order to restore this lubricant, the wool is sprinkled with an oil emulsion, and the mixing picker thoroughly blends the wools.

From here the wool goes to the cardroom, and by means of the carding machine the fibres are carded and drawn and delivered to the finisher in a broad, flat sheet. By means of the condenser it is divided into narrow bands, and the wool--free as yet from twist--comes out in soft strands. These strands or threads are called roping.

[Illustration: MENDING ROOM

BURLING RAISING KNOTS

MENDING PERCHING

[Illustration: DRAWING IN WARP THREADS

WEAVING AND SCOURING]

Now comes the mule spinning. The roping passes through rolls by which it is drawn and twisted to the size required, and wound on paper cop tubes or bobbins. Such of the yarn as is to be used for warp is then spooled from the bobbins to dresser spools. It is sized and wound upon large reels: from these transferred to the warp beam, as in the case of worsteds.

The processes of drawing-in, preparation for weaving, burling and mending are practically the same as in the case of worsteds.

~HOW THE CLOTH IS MADE PERFECT~

The finishing processes of woolens, like the finishing processes of worsteds, vary with different fabrics, some fabrics being scoured and cleansed in the washers before fulling, others going to the fulling mill without cleansing. After fulling, the cloth is again washed and rinsed, and if necessary to remove any vegetable fibres it is carbonized.

Napping or gigging raises the fibres to the nap desired. Gigging is done by means of a wire napping machine or teasel gig, which raises the ends of the fibres on the face of the cloth. The teasel is a vegetable product about the shape of a pine cone, and it is interesting to note that no mechanical contrivance has ever been invented to equal it for the purpose.

[Illustration: SPINNING THE WOOL

ENGLISH CAP SPINNING]

The napping which has been raised by the teasel is sheared or cut to a proper length by machine. The cloth is pressed, and, if it is desired to finish it with lustre, it is wound upon copper cylinders and steam is forced through it at a high pressure.

[Illustration:

RING TWISTING]

[Illustration:

BEAMING--YARN INSPECTING]

[Illustration:

WOOLEN MULE SPINNING]

[Illustration:

FINISHER WOOLEN CARDING]

Next the cloth is dyed, if it is to be piece-dyed--that is, dyed in the piece. If the cloth is a mixture, the wool was dyed immediately after the scouring. In worsteds the dyeing is done either just after it has been subjected to the first combing processes, or the yarn is dyed in the skein or hank.

[Illustration:

PIECE DYEING

FULLING CLOTH

FINISH PERCHING]

[Illustration:

FINISHED CLOTH, READY FOR THE TAILOR]

In the dry finishing the cloth is finished with various kinds of finishes desired, and it is steamed, brushed, sheared and pressed. Another examination for any imperfections or defects follows; the cloth is measured, packed and tagged and is ready for the market.

The difference between worsteds and woolens is principally that in the threads or yarns from which worsteds are made the fibres of the wool lie parallel, one to another, being made from combed wool, from which the short fibres have been removed; and woolens are made from yarns in which the fibres cross and are matted and intermixed. When finished the effect of worsteds and woolens is materially different. Upon examination it will be found that the worsted thread resembles a wire in evenness, while the woolen thread is uneven and irregular.

A worsted fabric when finished has a clear, bright, well defined pattern, seems close and firmly woven, and is of a pronounced dressy effect; while woolen cloths are softer, they are more elastic, the colors are more blended, the threads are not so easily distinguishable and the general effect is duller.

Why Can’t We See in the Dark?

We cannot see in the dark because there is no light to see by. To understand this we must first understand that when we see a thing, as we generally say, we do not actually see the thing itself, but only the light coming from it. But we have become so used to saying that we see the thing itself that for all practical purposes we can accept that as true, although it is not scientifically exact. Scientifically speaking, we see that part of the sunlight or other light which is shining upon it, which the object is able to reflect.

If there were no air about us we could not hear any sounds, no matter how much disturbance people or things created, because it requires air to cause the sound waves which produce sound, and air also to carry the sound waves to our ears. In the same way, if there is no light to produce light rays from any given object to our eyes, we can see nothing. It requires light waves to produce the reflections of objects to our eyes. Without light our eyes and their delicate organs are useless. You cannot see yourself in a mirror when the quicksilver which was once on the back of the glass has been removed, because there is then nothing to reflect the light. We can only see things when there is light enough about to reflect things to our eyes. When it is dark there is no light, and that is the reason we cannot see anything in the dark.

Why Can Cats and Some Other Animals See in the Dark?

They cannot see in the real dark any more than human beings. These animals can find their way in the dark and can see more than a human being, because of one distinct difference in their eyes, which may for them be considered an advantage. The pupils of their eyes can be made much larger, and they can, therefore, let more light into their eyes than people. The result is that when it is so dark that you cannot see a thing and you decide it is really dark, the cat can still see, because there is always a little more light left and she can open the pupils of her eyes and make them larger, thus letting in more light, and the little bit of light there is still left gets into her eyes and she is able to see. But in a really dark room a cat could see no more than you can. You see, our eyes open and shut more or less just like those of the cat, according to the intensity of the light. When you go out of the dark and shaded room into the bright sunlight and look at the sun, you naturally squint your eyes without deliberately intending to do so. This is nature’s way of preventing too much light getting into your eyes at one time. Gradually the pupils of your eyes contract and get smaller, until you can see, without squinting, anything in the sunlight. If, then, you were to go right back into a dark or shaded room, you would have to wait a moment or two before you could see things distinctly in the room--until the pupils of your eyes had dilated (become larger), so as to let in enough light to enable you to see normally. The eye automatically enlarges and contracts the pupil of the eye, to enable us to see distinctly in either light or less light places.

Why Is It Difficult to Walk Straight with My Eyes Closed?

The reason we cannot do this always is because when we walk naturally the steps taken by our right and left feet are not of equal length. This difference in the length of the steps is due to the fact that our legs are never exactly the same length. We think of them generally as of the same length, but they are not, and this will be proven if you measure them accurately. Now, then, the longer of the legs will always take a longer step than the shorter one, and so, if our eyes are shut, we walk in circles, unless we have something to guide us. When we walk with our eyes open, we are able to overcome the tendency to walk in circles, because our eyes help the brain to direct the legs on a straight course. Another reason which affects the matter is that our eyes are very necessary in keeping our bodies balanced on our feet, and it is very difficult to learn to keep the body balanced with the eyes closed. Now, when your eyes are closed and you attempt to walk in a straight line your body balances from one side to the other, and this fact, coupled with the first reason given, makes your course irregular. But, say you, the man on the tight-rope has his eyes bandaged and he walks a very straight line. Yes; but remember that he has a straight tight-rope to guide him, and all he needs is to maintain his balance. One can learn to walk in a straight line with the eyes closed, but it takes a good deal of practice, as you will learn if you try.

Why Can’t We Sleep with Our Eyes Open?

We cannot sleep with our eyes open, because to be asleep involves losing control of most of the functions of the body. When we sleep the brain sleeps also. Perhaps it would be stated more clearly to say that we cannot sleep while the part of the brain which controls our

## activities is awake. There is a part of the brain which has the power

to open our eyes, i. e., lift the eyelids, and when that portion of the brain ceases to exercise its power to keep the eyes open, they go shut. Even when we are awake that part of our brain cannot keep our eyes from winking, because there is another part of the brain which sees to it that our eyes wink every so often. This is done for the purpose of washing the eye-ball, and is the answer to another of your questions which is given in another place in this book. When the engineer at the electric light plant shuts off the power all the lights go out, and when you go to sleep you automatically shut off the power that opens your eyes, and the eyes are shut. The brain is asleep also, and if it is not completely asleep, you are restless.

Why Do Our Eyes Sparkle When We Are Merry?

If you should watch very closely the eyes of a merry person when you see them sparkle you would probably notice that the eyelids move up and down more often under such conditions than ordinarily, and if you know what moving the eyelids up and down in front of the pupil of the eye does, you will have your answer.

Every time the eyelid comes down it releases a little tear, which spreads over the eyeball and washes it clean and bright. It does this every time the eyelid comes down. Now, there is something about being merry which has the effect of making the eyelids dance up and down, and thus, every time the lid comes down, the ball of the eye is washed clean and bright, and gives it the appearance of sparkling, as we say.

Why Do We Laugh When Glad?

We laugh when glad because the things which make us laugh combine together to rouse those parts of the body which are involved in a good laugh to act in a certain harmony, and when this combination is arranged in a certain way it produces a laugh. Certain things in the world, whether they are funny, ludicrous, or other things that produce the laughing effect, cause the brain to work certain muscles and nerves in a combination that produces a laugh. The impression which reaches the brain causes these muscles and nerves to act involuntarily and the laugh comes. It works just like the keys of the piano. Some combinations of notes produce sad sounds and other combinations produce glad sounds, but the combination when once touched will always produce the same sound. It is the impressions made on the brain which start the proper combination, and it does this instantly. Just as a pin prick in the arm will at once send a “hurt” message to the brain and cause the brain to jerk the arm away, so a laugh-producing combination of sounds, or things we see, or feel, sends an impression to the brain which at once sends out the “laugh” order. Some things make some people laugh while they do not affect others at all. That is because our brains are not always the same in regard to recording impressions. Some things impress some brains one way and others entirely in a different way or not at all. You do not laugh so heartily the second time you hear a funny story, because the impression the brain receives when the story is told the second time is not so vivid.

Why Do I Laugh When Tickled?

Practically the same things happen when we are tickled, and explains why you laugh when tickled. When some one tickles the bottom of your feet or your ribs or another part of your body it produces, in most cases, the same effect on the brain as the laugh-producing sound or sight, and arouses the same combination of muscles and nerves to

## activity. It is just like pushing the button of an electric bell. When

you push the button the contact produces the spark which sets the machinery of the bell in motion and the bell rings and will continue to ring as long as you keep your finger on the button, or until the spark-producing power of the battery is gone. Then, as in the case of the bell, you cease to laugh, because the spark that produced the laugh combination is gone. That is why some things tickle some people very much and do not affect others. Some are not so sensitive to the laugh-producing combination as others. After the thing that tickles you has been going on for some time you are not tickled into laughter any more, because the impression on the brain ceases to be as strong.

Why Don’t I Laugh When I Tickle Myself?

Your mind tells you there is no need to laugh when you tickle yourself. Your mind will not respond to the tickling sensation when it is aware that the cause of the tickle is yourself. The reflex action of the mind which causes laughter and squirming when some one else tickles you only acts when it is not conscious of the cause.

The whole purpose of the sensitive organization of our skins is to give us information and cause action which will enable us to protect ourselves when any outside influence touches us. An injurious touch causes shock and pain, and the harmless tickle arouses the laughing and squirming sensation.

What Happens When We Laugh?

Laughter is what we call a reflex action. When something occurs to make us laugh, whether it is something we see, or feel, or hear, it is because certain sensory nerves receive an impression in one of three ways, carry it to the nerve centre and the nerve centre then sends the same impression along certain efferent nerves, which connect with certain muscles or glands, and excite them to activity. The action is practically the same as when you hold a light before a mirror. The rays from the light strike the surface of the mirror and are reflected back from the surface, lighting perhaps corners of the room, which the direct rays from the light could not reach, all depending upon the angle of reflection. Light will always reflect from a mirror that is exposed to it.

Now, then, when you see, hear or feel anything that makes you laugh, the sensory nerves have only to receive the impression to bring on the explosion of laughter. Something touched the laugh nerves or the laugh trigger that caused it to go off. You can prove that it is a matter of impression entirely by noting that some people can listen to a perfectly funny story, even when told by a clever performer, and never crack a smile, while others burst into uncontrollable laughter, and he who does not even smile may be listening even more intently than the other--he may even be looking for a laugh. It all depends upon the impression that is made upon the nerves. The muscles have the power to express the state of gladness which is indicated by laughter when certain impressions pass along the nerves which operate them, just as they can be made to do other things when the proper cause for action is shown them.

Why Do We Cry When Hurt?

We cry when we are hurt for the same reason that we laugh when we are glad. The muscles and nerves, under the direction of the brain, produce the cry just as the muscles and nerves produce laughter, although they are probably, but not necessarily, a different set of muscles and nerves.