CHAPTER XXV.

DOMESTIC SAUSAGE

MEATS AND HANDLING -- ARRANGEMENT OF DEPARTMENT -- CURING MEATS -- COOLER FOR GROUND MEATS -- GRINDING AND STUFFING ROOM -- SMOKE HOUSE -- COOK ROOM -- DRY HANGING ROOM -- COOLER -- SMOKING TEMPERATURE -- COOKING TIME -- SHRINKAGES -- PICKLE-CURED PRODUCTS -- DRY-CURED MEATS -- PACKING -- CASINGS AND SPICES -- SAUSAGE CEREALS -- SAUSAGE FORMULAS -- BOLOGNA VARNISH -- BOILED HAM.

=Introductory.=--There is probably no department where there is more diversity of methods than in the sausage room. The business of sausage making is an old one, and was largely developed in Europe, where on account of the low wages and the high prices for meats it was necessary to make the cheaper meat products into an edible article. The gradually increasing value of meats in the United States makes the same conditions paramount.

In the operation of packing houses the cutting of meats into many parts so as to supply the various purchasers with what they require, makes a comparatively large amount of wholesome meat product, equally nutritious with porter house steak, but not quite so tender or pleasing to the taste. Cheek meat, hearts and various trimmings are wholesome as a porterhouse, but not so delectable, at least, in their original condition; hence, the art of sausage making consists in taking these products and making from them a palatable, wholesome and less costly article.

=Meats and Handling.=--Sausage is made in such varieties that there are a multitude of ingredients in a multitude of forms. Primarily beef and pork trimmings are the broad classes, but of these there are many forms, each of different physical properties. Hearts and cheeks are, for example, the toughest part of the animal organism, and these usually find their way to the sausage room. On the other hand the parts of hams and shoulders used are equally delicate with the meats so conserved, but are of necessity relegated to the sausage room on account of their shape as a trimming. It is the skillful manipulation of these various meats that makes for the real results in this department. Too frequently, the sausage department is regarded as a necessity, like the tank house, to put things through. The most successful operators are those who regard the department otherwise, and many good and successful businesses have been builded on the sausage department as a basis; not by trying to make sausage to retail at five cents per pound, extravagantly speaking.

=Arrangement of Department.=--This department becomes quite comprehensive in its scope in large establishments requiring:

Refrigerated space for curing fresh meats.

Cooler for curing meats after ground.

Grinding and stuffing room.

Smoke houses.

Cook room.

Dry hanging room for smoked sausage.

Cooler for sausage other than smoked sausage.

=Curing Meats.=--In certain sausages cured meats are a necessity, in others they can be used without detriment, while there still remain others in which cured meats are positively bad. Therefore exactly how to handle the meats so as to have them available for use in proper form becomes a matter of concern. Formerly when preservatives, like borax and boracic acid could be used, many products were put into cure with a preservative of saltpetre, borax, boracic acid, sugar and salt, and kept sufficiently mild to be acceptable, but the pure food laws abolishing the use of preservatives have changed conditions. The result is that sausage products should be cured like hams and frozen when cured or frozen before curing and carried in this form until wanted. However, quite a large space should be provided near the sausage department for curing products.

=Cooler for Ground Meats.=--In close proximity to the sausage room is provided a shelving room arranged for placing ground fresh spiced meats for curing processes; spiced completely and ready for stuffing. Meats can be held in this manner and stuffed, smoked, cooked and packed rapidly as the exigencies of shipping demand. This enables the maker to shorten the time between himself and the consumer, most necessary for a successful business.

=Grinding and Stuffing Room.=--This should be a well lighted and well ventilated room. Here the grinding equipment and stuffing tables are located. The principal equipment needed are “Enterprise” type grinders, silent cutters, mixer and back fat choppers, with a spice mill.

[Illustration: FIG. 159.--DEVICE FOR RUNNING SAUSAGE INTO SMOKE HOUSE.]

Mechanical cutters are expected to be an aid to teeth and therefore they should be made to perform their part by being fitted with sharp knives to do the cutting. Choppers are only necessary in making summer sausage although some manufacturers prefer to rock their fancy breakfast sausage.

=Smoke Houses.=--The management of sausage smoke houses for ordinary sausage vary considerably. Figs. 159 and 160 with description illustrate one of the sliding carriage types. The smoke house carriage is made of angle irons and is run on a track which is supported by vertical columns. The outside tracks can be raised to any height desired to match the tracks in the smoke house. The sausage is hung on this carriage and run into the smoke house, and when it is sufficiently smoked the carriage can be drawn out on the movable rails, the sausages taken off, others put in their place and the operation repeated.

This device necessitates a carriage for each set of tracks in the smoke house. Later practice tends toward the use of some sort of cage--operated from overhead rails; the sausage department being arranged with rails near to the stuffing tables. Extending to the smoke houses, thence to the cook boxes and on to the hanging rooms. This arrangement is so familiar that it does not require further description. The tracks are made in such form and size as to fit the houses and usually conform to one of the types illustrated.

[Illustration: FIG. 160.--DETAIL OF SMOKE HOUSE CARRIAGE.]

The modern houses are built of brick, about 54 inches in width, which will allow, clear of the frame, two to four inches. In depth the houses vary and can be from ten to sixteen feet. Where possible, they should be built on a corresponding level to the cook rooms and grinding rooms, so as to avoid the necessity of using elevators. This brings the fire pit within a reasonable distance, which is a decided advantage for high temperature smoke houses.

Smoke house compartments for summer or dried sausage can be from two to three stories and should be built exclusively of brick, as it has been shown by numerous experiments with sheet iron and iron lined houses that these are not a success for smoking all kinds of sausage. The draft of the house is, of course, regulated by ventilators at the top.

Better results are obtained by the use of tin clad wood center doors than by the use of plate iron doors.

[Illustration: FIG. 161.--DIAGRAM SMOKE HOUSE SAUSAGE STACK.]

In smoking domestic sausage, it is always preferable to use hard wood, never to put green or unsmoked sausage into a cold smoke house, the house should be warmed by first building a fire in it, in case it has not been recently used. In hot weather or in the summer time this is not so important, as smoke houses then are sufficiently warm at all times. In cool weather or during the winter, the smoke house should either be kept warm by constant usage or by warming up before using in case the house is empty and has become cold. The fire should not be over eight feet from the cage.

=Cooking Time.=--To successfully manufacture sausage it should be cooked properly. The following schedule gives the time and temperature of cooking different kinds of sausage, forming the “Cooking Schedule” referred to in many of the foregoing formulas:

COOKING SCHEDULE FOR SAUSAGE.

---------------------+-----+-------+----------- | ... | ... |Temperature | Time| Time | degrees Kind of sausage |hours|minutes| Fahrenheit ---------------------+-----+-------+----------- Long Bologna | ... | 30 | 160 Large Bologna | 2 | ... | 160 Round Bologna | ... | 20 | 155 Bag Bologna | 2 | ... | 160 Bologna in weasands | ... | 45 | 155 Knoblauch | ... | 20 | 160 Leona Bologna long | ... | 40 | 155 Leona Bologna large | 2 | ... | 160 Regular Frankfurts | ... | 7 | 160 Vienna Frankfurts | ... | 7 | 160 High grade Frankfurts| ... | 7 | 160 Blood | 2 | ... | 200 Tongue | 2 | ... | 200 Liver | ... | 30 | 160 Minced ham | 4 | ... | 150 Berlin ham | 2 | ... | 170 Head cheese | ... | 45 | 180 Cooked pressed ham | 2 | 30 | 180 ---------------------+-----+-------+-----------

=Cook Room.=--The cook room should be provided with vats of various types, usually of iron plate on account of ease in cleaning. A later type is provided with a hood, the apparatus looks like a piano box, a lifting cover being provided which permits it to be raised and lowered at will. Permanent ventilating spouts are attached to the top to dispose of the steam--something that must be contended with in the cook room. The vats are usually arranged in pairs and are accessible from three sides.

In some large institutions cook tanks are set in the floor and the sausage cage submerged with the sausage hanging thereon. This is not advisable as there is sure to be a discoloration from the cages.

Sausage upon removal from the cook tanks should be drenched with cold water, preferably sprayed on from the top. This washes the sausage and cools it, preparatory to hanging in the sales or packing department.

=Smoking Temperatures.=--The smoking of sausage is a very important factor, and in the different formulas given in the instructions for handling, reference has been made to the “Smoking Schedule.” This schedule has been carefully compiled and the time and temperatures given should be closely followed in order to get the best results.

SMOKING TEMPERATURES FOR SAUSAGE.

=====================+============+=========== | |Temperature | Time | degrees Kind of sausage | hours | Fahrenheit ---------------------+------------+----------- Long Bologna | 3 | 145 to 150 Large Bologna | 3 | 145 to 150 Round Bologna | 2 | 135 to 140 Bag Bologna | 1 | 140 to 145 Bologna in weasands | 4 | 185 Knoblauch | 1¹⁄₂ | 130 Leona Bologna long | 3 | 145 Leona Bologna large | 3 | 145 Regular Frankfurts |2¹⁄₂ to 3 | 130 to 135 Vienna Frankfurts | 3 | 140 to 145 High grade Frankfurts|3 to 3¹⁄₂| 150 to 160 Blood | 12 | 65 to 70 Tongue | 12 | 65 to 70 Liver |1 to 1¹⁄₂| 110 to 120 Polish |3 to 3¹⁄₂| 150 to 160 Minced ham |3 to 3¹⁄₂| 135 Berlin | 5 | 130 to 140 Cooked pressed ham | 5 | 130 to 140 Cottage ham | 32 | 120 Boneless ham | 48 | 80 ---------------------+------------+-----------

A thermometer in a smoke house is a necessity--not an ornament. A clock is of the same consequence.

=Dry Hanging Room.=--A well ventilated room with all the light possible should be provided for storage of smoked sausage awaiting shipment. This should not be a cooler. Sixty degree Fahr. is amply low, and in summer a higher temperature is advisable. If smoked sausage is placed in a cooler it condenses moisture on the surface and becomes slimy, mouldy and rotten in rapid succession.

=Shrinkages of Domestic Sausage.=--As is known to all sausage makers it is in very rare cases that 100 pounds of meat makes 100 pounds of finished sausage; there is always a shrinkage and before the cost of the finished sausage can be determined one must know the shrinkage from original weights of raw materials.

The following tabulated statement is compiled from experience with very large amounts of the different kinds of sausage, extended over a year and a half of actual manufacture. The mean average of shrinkage is accurate information and may safely be used as a guide. The cost of the formulas is not given as there is such a variation in prices of ingredients induced by market prices that any figures would be misleading. To find out the cost of the formulas, figure the given weights at market value, shrinking them according to the table below, adding cost for labor and supplies, and a very close approximate cost of the manufactured article will be obtained.

Per cent of Kind of Sausage. Shrinkage. Long Bologna 8¹⁄₂ to 11 Large Bologna 7¹⁄₄ to 10 Round Bologna 8¹⁄₂ to 11 Bag Bologna 6 to 9 Bologna in weasands 6 to 9 Knoblauch 10 to 11 Leona, long 10 to 13 Leona, large 10 to 12 Regular Frankfurts 11 to 13¹⁄₂ Vienna Frankfurts 19 to 22 High grade Frankfurts 18 to 20 Regular pork 2 to 4 Little pig pork 2 to 4 High grade breakfast 1¹⁄₂ to 3 Blood 31 to 36 Liver 12 to 14 Tongue 38 to 40 Polish 12 to 14 Head cheese 39 to 42 Luncheon beef 47 to 50 Boneless pigs feet 22 to 25 Minced ham 6 to 9 Berlin ham 22 to 27 Cooked pressed ham 15 to 17

=Cooler for Fresh Sausage.=--Fresh pork sausage tongue and other varieties of cooked sausage are usually placed in a cooler. Dryness in this cooler is a first and prime essential. Likewise a spreading of the product so as to give it opportunity to dry. Moisture in this department creates a bad condition in the product. Fans are an assistance in that they produce a circulation which adds to dryness.

=Pickle-Cured Product.=--The following products are used in sausage making. They are of little value except in the cured condition:

Pork snouts, Pork hearts, Pork cheeks, Pork skins, Pork heads, Pork hocks, Pork ears, Pork tails, Beef hearts, Beef cheeks, Ox lips, Sheep hearts.

These products should be thoroughly chilled by spreading them out on racks and placing them in a chill room having a temperature of from 34° to 36° F. They should be turned while being chilled. After being thoroughly chilled for from twenty-four to thirty-six hours, they should be put into vats or tierces with an eighty-degree plain pickle, using eight ounces of saltpetre to the one-hundred pounds of meat.

A wooden frame and weight is placed on the product in order to keep it immersed in the pickle. To cure these meats in vats use the following quantities of pickle:

1,400 pounds of meat will require 54 gallons of pickle. 1,000 pounds of meat will require 42 gallons of pickle. 800 pounds of meat will require 36 gallons of pickle.

The meats should be kept in a cellar during the pickling process, with the temperature ranging from 38° to 40° F., and overhauled every five, ten and fifteen days in order that all the pickle may thoroughly penetrate the meats. The different kinds of meats will be found to be sufficiently cured after being in pickle the following number of days:

Pork snouts 25 to 30 days Pork hearts 25 to 30 days Pork cheeks 25 to 30 days Pork skins 10 to 15 days Pork heads 35 days Pork ears 10 days Pork hocks 25 days Pork tails 10 days Beef hearts 25 to 30 days Beef cheeks 25 to 30 days Ox lips 20 days Sheep hearts 25 to 30 days

=Dry Cured Meats.=--For some classes of sausage dry-cured meats are used. This consists of a process of curing meat in tierces, the meat packed closely and curing product interspersed. For this product a formula made from the following serves. For one tierce of 400 pounds use the following mixture:

16 pounds salt, 4 pounds sugar, 1¹⁄₂ pounds saltpetre, 2 quarts old ham pickle, which must be sweet and in good condition.

Pork and beef trimmings should be fresh, and if they have been packed in barrels for transport the blood should be allowed to drain off before being packed in the preservative. They should not be washed in pickle before being used, but should be handled dry. The two quarts of old ham pickle mentioned in the above formula should be sprinkled through as uniformly as possible when pounding the trimmings down into the tierce.

If packing fresh beef and pork hearts, head meat, beef and pork cheek meat, giblet and weasand meat, they should be thoroughly washed in a mild pickle so as to remove the blood and slime before packing in the tierce. Head, cheek, and giblet meat should not be put into ice water when cut off on the killing floor, but should be promptly removed to a cooler where the temperature is 33° to 36° F., and spread or hung up on racks to refrigerate.

Care must be taken not to allow these meats to accumulate in any bulk while warm. Hearts and large pieces should be split to reduce their size and make accessible to the curing ingredient. In the packing of these meats the pickle used with dry trimming is omitted.

=Packing.=--After the trimmings are properly prepared they are to be mixed with the curing ingredients. This is best accomplished by the use of a tumbler churn, weighing a given amount of the trimmings and placing with the allotted proportion of curing materials into the churn.

When mixed with the preservative, the trimmings should be put in a tierce, in layers, and pounded down as tightly as possible with a maul, and the operation continued until the tierce is as full as possible, allowing for the head to be put on. Before heading up spread a cheese cloth or thin cotton cloth over the top to protect the trimmings from the head. The tierce when headed up is removed to cold storage, where the temperature must be kept as near 38° F. as possible from thirty to forty-five days, when the trimmings are ready for use. If it is desired to keep the product sixty days, after it has been in the temperature above mentioned for thirty to forty-five days, remove to a lower temperature, 32° to 34° F.; and for more than sixty days to a temperature of 20° F.

=Casings and Spices.=--All classes of beef casings, namely, rounds, bungs, middles and weasands, as well as hog bungs, hog casings and sheep casings are used in the Sausage Department. There is perhaps more chicanery used in Sausage Room supplies than in any other one department, consequently care in purchase of these supplies is worthy of attention. In sheep casings it is a matter of grading as to width, pieces and yardage per bundle; in hog casings, a matter of salt per pound purchased, and grading as to width and pieces; in rounds and middles one of holes, pieces and measurement per set.

Spices should so far as possible be bought in the natural state and mixed on the premises. Pure Food laws pretty well take care of the purity of the spice in most states.

=Sausage Cereals.=--This is a very important factor in the manufacture of sausage. The province of “fillers” is to absorb water, preventing shrinkage, and while this is advisable to an extent, if overdone, it detracts from the quality of the product. The main base ingredients for fillers are rice flour, corn flour and potato flour. There are many sausage fillers on the market but the foregoing ingredients are most frequently used.

Potato flour or starch is not used to any extent today, manufacturers finding that there is a great deal of trouble attached to the manufacture of sausage containing these ingredients, on account of the liability to sour and spoil. Corn flour is the best filler that can be used, being less liable to ferment, while it absorbs the water quickly. While fillers are used to a great extent, the sausage manufacturer should remember that the quality of sausage is deteriorated proportionately to the amount of water that is worked in. Hence fillers should be used with discretion, and manufacturers who aim to make a name for their goods, are frugal with fillers.

=Sausage Formulas.=--The following methods are tried and used for the manufacture of various kinds of sausage. Sausage makers vary procedure according to stocks on hand. However, for uniformity, it is best to conform to a standard so far as possible.

_Pork Sausage._--This is produced in various grades, from a fancy breakfast quality to a substance whose chief claim to the name is the form. A good pork sausage can be made as follows:

100 lb. pork trimmings, preferably shoulder trimmings, about one-third fat. 3 pounds salt. 8 ounces pepper. 3 ounces sage. ¹⁄₄ ounce ginger. ¹⁄₂ ounce mace.

This should be chopped by passing through a ⁵⁄₃₂ “Enterprise” plate. Mix in an arm type mixer, rather than the blade type. Mix as little as possible but sufficiently to get spice evenly distributed; stuff in medium sheep casing, 5 inch links. The matter of spicing is one of taste and can be varied. Note the absence of water and filler in the formula.

Some makers prefer to “rock” their fancy breakfast sausage. This produces good results but is unnecessary. It is possible to use many meats in the making of this sausage and still have it passably good, but generally speaking, there is less chance for manipulation of this sort in this kind of sausage than in many of the others. The following formulas make a cheap and palatable pork sausage:

FORMULA A.

75 pounds pork trimmings, 25 pounds tripe, 8 pounds water, 3 pounds salt, 4 ounces sage, 10 ounces white pepper, 3 ounces saltpetre, 10 pounds corn flour.

FORMULA B.

90 pounds regular pork trimmings, 10 pounds tripe, 6 pounds corn flour, 10 pounds water, 2 pounds, 8 ounces salt, 4 ounces sage, 10 ounces white pepper, 3 ounces sugar, 1 pound, 8 ounces color water.

The preceding formulas are for sausage meat, often sold loose or without stuffing, also for sausage stuffed in hog casings. Stuff in medium or narrow hog casings. “Tripe” is the source of refuge to produce cheap pork sausage.

_Bologna Style._--This is one of the most common and generally used type of sausage manufactured. It is in demand in nearly every locality. In the manufacture of Bologna, ingredients are used which are not in themselves palatable, but are nutritious. The seasoning makes it palatable.

The formulas which are given below, if they are accurately followed and fresh and wholesome material carefully prepared is used, will make a sausage which is very acceptable to the consumer. This is the product that is usually made from the tougher meats such as cheeks and hearts. For a good bologna use:

25 pounds beef trimmings, 50 pounds pork cheeks, 7 pounds corn flour, 1¹⁄₈ pounds pepper, 4 ounces coriander, 70 pounds pork trimmings, 30 pounds beef cheeks, 5 pounds salt, 2 ounces allspice, 4 ounces saltpetre, 25 pounds water.

A cheaper product can be made as follows:

45 pounds hearts (pork), 20 pounds sheep cheek meat, 65 pounds beef cheeks, 7 pounds corn flour, 4 ounces coriander (ground), 4 ounces saltpetre (ground), 20 pounds pork cellar fat trimmings, 25 pounds weasand meat, 5 pounds salt, 18 ounces pepper (ground), 2 ounces allspice (ground), 25 pounds water.

To manufacture, the product should be passed through an “Enterprise” type of grinder, using ⁷⁄₆₄th plate. Transfer to silent cutter and chop for full five minutes, adding spice and water as the mixture is cut and turned. Transfer to shelving room and allow to lay for twenty-four hours. Stuff in casings as required, put in smoke house at a temperature of 120° F. for one and one-half hours, raise temperature to 135° F. and carry for another one and one-half hours. Cook in water at 155° F. for thirty minutes; rinse with hot water after removal, then chill with cold water and hang in shipping room.

The length of cooking and smoking varies with the weight and thickness of the package. See schedule. This recipe is for wide middle casings.

_Frankfurt Style._--This popular sausage is made from a variety of formulas. Perhaps there is no one piece of sausage as susceptible of being made so excellent or so tasteless, it being entirely a matter of what it is made from. The better grades are made from freshly killed bull beef, hashed warm. The process consists in boning bull beef and opening the meats along the seams, so to speak, skinning each bundle of muscle to remove the wrapping and cutting out all ligaments. Fresh pork, preferably, shoulder meat is treated in the same manner. The meats are then passed through a ⁷⁄₆₄ “Enterprise” plate, and passed to a silent cutter. Here cracked ice is added in quantity and the meats cut until they are a light fluffy pulp. The spices are added during the last five minutes of cutting, and the whole mass transferred to a shelving room for twenty-four hours, when it is ready to stuff, smoke, cook, cool and sell. Wide sheep casings are used for stuffing. Make the links uniform. The proportions of meat used should be as follows:

60 pounds bull beef, 40 pounds pork shoulder (fat), 35 pounds ice, 10 pounds corn flour, 4 pounds salt, 12 ounces pepper, 3 ounces saltpetre, 3 ounces mace, 6 ounces sugar.

The following formulas are for less costly products and provide a means for disposing of some by-products:

FORMULA NO. 1.

57 pounds regular pork trimmings, 65 pounds beef cheek meat, 15 pounds cooked tripe, 25 pounds pork kidneys, 20 pounds dry salt or pickled pork trimmings, 9 pounds corn flour, 45 pounds water, 1 pound, 4 ounces white pepper, 3 pounds salt, 2 pounds color water, 4 ounces saltpetre, 3 ounces allspice, 3 ounces mace, 3 ounces coriander, 1¹⁄₂ ounces cloves.

FORMULA NO. 2.

90 pounds lean pork cheek meat, 60 pounds regular pork trimmings, 9 pounds corn flour, 60 pounds water, 5 pounds salt, 2 pounds, 7 ounces color water, 12 ounces sugar, 3 ounces saltpetre, 1 pound black pepper, 2 ounces mace.

The use of a mixer is unnecessary with this sausage since the silent cutter will perform this work. It should take about ten minutes to do the cutting. Smoke at 110° F. for one and one-half hours, then at 135° F. for one hour. Cook at 155° F. for eight to ten minutes, rinse and cool.

In medium and low priced frankfurts, cattle lights are used in moderate proportion, say, 10 per cent. Tripe can also be used in increased quantity.

_Leona Style Sausage._--The following formula will be found acceptable for this variety of sausage:

30 pounds pork knuckle meat, 65 pounds lean pork trimmings, 50 pounds back fat trimmings or moderately fat trimmings, 22 pounds pork neck fat, 8¹⁄₂ pounds corn flour, 55 pounds water, 5 pounds salt, 1 pound white pepper, 3 ounces mace, 2¹⁄₂ ounces saltpetre, 12 ounces sugar, 2 ounces grated onions, ¹⁄₂ ounce garlic.

Knuckle meat to be ground through a moderately fine plate. Balance of pork should be chopped in the “silent cutter.” Corn flour and seasoning should be added to the knuckle meat after it is put into the Buffalo chopper and the machine has made two or three revolutions. Chop for four minutes, stuff in eighteen-inch pieces, beef middle casings or beef bung casings. Smoke, cook as per schedule. Cool and send to hanging room.

_Knoblauch Style Sausage._--Following are two formulas for Knoblauch sausage:

30 pounds pork knuckle meat, 65 pounds very lean pork trimmings, 50 pounds back fat trimmings or moderately fat trimmings, 22 pounds pork neck fat, 8¹⁄₂ pounds corn flour, 55 pounds water, 5 pounds salt, 1 pound white pepper, 3 ounces mace, 2¹⁄₂ ounces saltpetre, 12 ounces sugar, 2 ounces grated onions, 3 ounces garlic, 8 ounces color water.

Stuff in beef rounds and tie with twine every five inches. Knuckle meat may be ground through a moderately fine plate. Balance of pork should be chopped in a “Buffalo Silent Cutter.” Corn flour and seasoning should be added to the knuckle meat after it is put into the Buffalo chopper and the machine has made two or three revolutions.

SECOND METHOD.

50 pounds pork cheeks, 10 pounds tripe, 40 pounds standard pork trimmings, 5 pounds salt, 3 ounces mace, 9 ounces sugar, 3 ounces garlic, 35 pounds pork trimmings (lean), 15 pounds D. T. or S. P. trimmings, 9 pounds corn flour, ¹⁄₈ ounce pepper, 4 ounces coriander, 3 ounces saltpetre, 30 pounds water.

Grind pork cheeks through ⁷⁄₆₄ plate “Enterprise” cutter. Transfer to silent cutter, add water and chop one minute, add balance of trimmings and chop five minutes, then pass to shelving room, stuff in beef round casings, tie with No. 12 twine in four-inch links. Smoke at 110° for one hour and increase temperature to 135° for one and one-half hours. Cook twenty minutes at 155° and chill after cooking, draw and pass to hanging room.

_Polish Style Sausage._--Formula for making this sausage is as follows:

100 pounds beef cheek meat, or shank meat, 50 pounds dry salt or pickled pork trimmings, 50 pounds pork trimmings, 9 pounds corn flour, 30 pounds water, 1 pound white pepper, 5 pounds salt, 6 ounces saltpetre, 6 ounces coriander, 3 ounces garlic.

Grind the beef cheek meat through a ⁷⁄₆₄th plate, add corn flour and seasoning, work in as much water as possible and then add the pork trimmings. This is a very coarse chopped sausage and the pork trimmings should be chopped about as fine as small dice. Beef is the binder of this sausage, and must be handled according to instructions. The meat, after it is chopped, can be handled the same as Bologna and Frankfurt meat by putting in a cooler for a few hours before stuffing. After the sausage is stuffed, it can also be handled as Bologna and Frankfurts, if desired, before smoking.

This sausage should be smoked carefully and strictly in accordance with the smoking schedule, as it is not cooked, this being done practically in the smoke house, during the process of smoking. After it is smoked it has a very wrinkled appearance, which is essential for this article. In fact, it is not Polish sausage unless it has this appearance.

The dicing of the meat other than the beef can be done with a rocker. Note that a “silent cutter” is not used in this manufacture. The sausage is stuffed in beef round casings.

_Blood Sausage._--This sausage is made as follows:

205 pounds shoulder fat, 54 pounds pig skins, 47 pounds beef blood, 5 pounds onions, 7 pounds salt, 1 pound white pepper, 3 pounds corn flour, 8 ounces marjoram, 4 ounces cloves.

Use pickled shoulder fat and skins, cook for one hour at a temperature of 210° F. and run through fat cutting machine or cut into size of small dice. Pass the beef blood through a fine sieve in order to separate foreign matter. Cook pig skins for about two hours at a temperature of 210° F. and grind through a ⁷⁄₆₄th plate. Mix the shoulder fat, skins, blood and seasoning thoroughly together and stuff in cap end bungs. Smoking and cooking as indicated in schedules.

_Tongue Sausage._--For Tongue Sausage the following formula is given:

50 pounds hog or sheep tongue, 130 pounds shoulder fat, 34 pounds hog skins, 30 pounds blood, 8 pounds salt, 1 pound, 4 ounces white pepper, 2 pounds onions, 10 ounces marjoram, 4 ounces cloves.

Use pickled shoulder fat, skin and cook for one hour at a temperature of 210° F. and run through fat cutting machine or cut into size of small dice. Use beef blood, passed through a fine sieve in order to separate any foreign material. Cook hog skins for about two hours at a temperature of 210° F. and grind through a ⁷⁄₆₄th inch plate. Pickled sheep tongues are preferable to pickled hog tongues, as they are smaller and make a better appearing sausage when cut. The tongue should be cooked one and three-quarter hours at a temperature of 210° F.

Before mixing the above ingredients, rinse the fat off the tongues with hot water in order to remove as much grease as possible. Mix the ingredients thoroughly with the seasoning by hand. When stuffing put about four pieces of tongue to each bung. However, this varies according to the size of the bungs used. Cap end bungs should be used in all cases. Smoking and cooking to be done as indicated in schedule.

_Minced Ham._--The following formula for Minced Ham is given:

50 pounds beef trimmings, 20 pounds pork cheek meat, 80 pounds regular pork trimmings, 5 pounds corn flour, 20 pounds water, 5 pounds salt, 8 ounces sugar, 3¹⁄₂ ounces white pepper, 3¹⁄₂ ounces saltpetre.

Grind meats through a ⁷⁄₆₄th plate; pass to “Silent Cutter,” add water and spices; chop three minutes and shelve for curing. Stuff in calf bladders if available, otherwise small beef bladders.

In tying the bladders, it is best to use a wooden skewer and twine and it is preferable to use small calf bladders in place of large ones, as the time required for smoking and cooling is so long that if large bladders are used the weight of them would break the bladders where they are skewered or tied and would result in shrinkage or loss.

_New England or Pressed Ham._--This ham is made from dry cured pork trimmings put down under the formula given. The best and leanest trimmings obtainable are cured for this purpose. Shoulder blade trimmings or lean shoulder trimmings are more desirable than any other kind.

After the trimmings have been cured sufficiently, which is when they show a bright cured color throughout and are without dark spots in the center of the meat, the trimmings are weighed up in 100-pound batches, and about ten per cent of lean beef trimmings, ground through a ⁷⁄₆₄th-inch plate, is mixed thoroughly. Immediately after the trimmings are mixed the mass should be stuffed into large beef bung ends, usually from fourteen to sixteen inches long. To obtain the best results a stuffer arranged with a large sized filler is necessary. However, a hand stuffer arranged with a large sized filler, about three inches at the small end, or opening, can be used. Care should be taken to stuff the bungs as tightly as possible. They should be skewered instead of tied at the ends and should be wrapped with heavy twine, each piece having from four to six wrappings of the twine, which should terminate with a hanger for the ham. The pieces are very heavy and will break during the processes of smoking and cooking unless they are properly wrapped or tied.

This ham is smoked five hours at a temperature of from 130° to 140° F. and the house should be moderately warm before the ham is hung in the smoke. A small fire should be started to dry off the casings, after which the meat should be smoked the same as Bologna. Cook at least three hours at a temperature of 160° F. After it has been cooked it is taken immediately to a cooler, where the temperature is from 38° to 40° F., and put under a press. If no press is obtainable place the ham in layers, putting a board between each layer with a weight on top. Place the hams in a pile or under the press so that they can be picked with a long, thin skewer about one-half the thickness of a ham tryer in order to permit the water which is in the ham to escape. After pressure for twelve hours, take them out and hang up so that boiling hot water can be thrown on them to wash off the grease; thoroughly washed in this manner remove to a dry cooler.

_New Jersey Ham._--New Jersey ham is made according to the following formula:

60 pounds lean ham trimmings 80 pounds lean back trimmings, 10 pounds lean beef chucks or shank meat, 4 pounds, salt, 3¹⁄₂ pounds cracker meal, 4 ounces formula saltpetre, 12 ounces sugar, ³⁄₄ ounce red pepper.

Beef is ground through an Enterprise ⁷⁄₆₄th-inch plate and rocked about five minutes, when the pork trimmings are added with the seasoning. The seasoning should all be mixed thoroughly and added to the meat. The whole is then chopped about as coarse as summer sausage, or about twenty to twenty-five minutes. It is taken to a cooler after being rocked and spread about six or eight inches thick on a table, where it is allowed to remain about three days at a temperature of from 38° to 40° F.

It is then stuffed by hand stuffers into bags, which will weigh after being stuffed and dried about five pounds. These bags are made of heavy drilled cloth and should be stuffed as tightly as possible. They should be kept very clean during the process of stuffing, as any sausage meat which may stick to the cloth will leave a bad appearance after the sausage has been smoked.

After the ham has been stuffed, it should be taken to the dry room, where the temperature can be kept at all times between 46° and 55° F., 50° being preferable. The room must be airy and dry and it will take at least ten days under favorable circumstances to get the ham in proper condition to smoke. It should be smoked about four hours in as cold a smoke as possible, 70° to 75° F. being as hot as it is safe to smoke it, 60° F. being nearer the proper temperature. After it has been smoked, it should be again hung in a cool temperature for three days, when it will be ready for shipment. This sausage is manufactured extensively in New Jersey and the east.

_Head Cheese._--Head cheese is made as follows:

44 pounds cooked pig skins, 55 pounds cooked pig snouts, 33 pounds cooked pig ears, 55 pounds cooked beef hearts, 51 pounds cooked neck fat, 20 pounds water in which the meat has been cooked, 1 pound white pepper, 10 pounds onions, 4 ounces allspice, 2 ounces cloves, 3 ounces marjoram, 3 ounces carroway seeds.

The cooked meats are chopped by hand with a knife until reduced to the proper size, except the skins, which are ground through a ⁷⁄₆₄th-inch plate after being cooked. The mass usually is mixed by hand and stuffed into cured hog paunches or beef bungs and cooked as per cooking schedule appended hereto. After the sausage is cooked, it is taken to a cooler and usually pressed by laying the paunches or bungs side by side with a board between each layer and a moderate weight on top of the last board. However, if properly made this is unnecessary as the gelatine from the skins and the water in which the meat has been cooked will bind the other ingredients together sufficiently without much, if any, pressing.

_Boneless Pigs Feet._--This product is prepared as follows:

25 pounds fresh pigs feet, 30 pounds fresh pigs skins, 15 pounds fresh pigs snouts, 15 pounds fresh pigs ears, 20 pounds fresh pork trimmings, 15 pounds fresh beef trimmings, 10 pounds white pepper, 50 pounds water in which meat has been cooked, 4 pounds, 1 ounce salt, 4 ounces cloves.

Use one gallon (45-grain) vinegar to five-hundred pounds of the above mass. Cook all of the meats in one vat, thoroughly, in pudding nets, and chop same as headcheese, mix seasoning, water and vinegar with the meat in a large tub or tight-bottom truck.

It is necessary to use tin moulds for this sausage and they are generally of one size, shaped as a ten-pound wooden bucket or other sized packages which may be intended to be used for shipping purposes. Fill these molds with the mixed mass and put on top of each a wooden block the size of the mold and about three inches thick. Then remove to a cooler and press tightly by placing on top a board with a weight. In order to obtain the best results, the molds or cans should be cooled quickly, therefore a temperature of about 36° F. is desirable. To remove the contents from the cans or molds, submerge in hot water for a few seconds, when the meat will loosen from the sides of the molds and can be turned out readily.

After the product has been removed from the molds allow it to stand for a short while in the cooler before placing in shipping packages.

This sausage can be made without using wooden tops on the cans or molds and without pressing it. If the pig skins, after they are cooked, are ground through a ⁷⁄₆₄th-inch plate and then mixed with the mass, more of a jelly will be produced and they will not require pressing. In preparing meats be particular to remove all bone, gristle or cartilage.

_Liver Sausage._--The following formula is for Liver Sausage:

20 pounds cooked lean pork trimmings, 20 pounds cooked pork cheek meat, 20 pounds cooked pork skins, 10 pounds cooked hog livers, 50 pounds cooked tripe, 6 pounds cooked shoulder fat, 3 pounds salt, 3 pounds onions, 9 ounces white pepper, 2 ounces marjoram, 2 ounces cloves, 1¹⁄₂ ounces allspice.

Above is all ground through a ⁷⁄₆₄th-inch plate except the shoulder fat, which is run through a fat cutting machine or cut into size of small dice. It is necessary to mix this sausage in a sausage mixer. The seasoning should be put into the mixer when starting to mix, but the shoulder fat should not be put in until about half through. Stuff immediately into hog bungs, or beef middles, as desired. Cook immediately as per cooking table and then place in cooler, at a temperature of 36° to 40° F. until thoroughly chilled, when it is ready for shipping.

_Boneless Ham._--This is made from pork shoulder butts, cured in sweet pickle and stuffed in small No. 2 beef bungs. Smoke forty-eight hours at a temperature of 120° F. The bungs may be slightly colored, the same as Polish sausage casings, before stuffing, if desired. Not cooked.

_Cottage Ham._--This is made from boneless ham butts or shoulder butts, cured the same as boneless ham butts. It is not stuffed but strung from the large end of the butt and smoked thirty-two hours at a temperature of 120° F. and not cooked.

_Stuffed Hogs Heads._--Select a well shaped head, cut off about three to four pounds behind the ears and remove the bones. Care should be taken in entering above the eyes, where the skin is thinnest and lies directly on the bone. Do not remove the snout bones, but saw off the hindmost jaw bone right behind the mouth. Remove the cheek meat on either side until with the skin it is about one-half inch thick. Cut off about three inches square from the lower cheek at the back to make the head more shapely. Sew from the snout up the back bone, where the head is to be filled and cut around cover from the skin to fit the back opening. Prepare the stuffing as follows:

Good firm young pork, moderately fat, is coarsely chopped with the required quantity of salt and allowed to stand twenty-four hours. Use about ten pounds chopped fine, spiced with five and one-quarter ounces of salt, one-half ounce of ground white pepper, seventy-seven grains of finely ground mace, mixed with one pound of boiled tongue meat cut into shape of dice, one-half the size of a walnut. Mix all thoroughly and fill head with the mass. Sew the cover on and smoke for two hours until it turns to a yellow brown color. After it is smoked, tie the head up in a cloth, wrapping a string around it very evenly from front to rear. Cook in boiling water from three to three and one-half hours, and then allow to cool. The head must be a chestnut brown when thoroughly smoked and cooked.

_Scrapple._--For making scrapple use two pig heads, two pig tongues and two pig livers. These should be cooked in an iron-jacketed kettle that will hold about forty-five gallons. Cover thoroughly and then remove from kettle and cut up the same as for head cheese. After the heads, tongues and livers are taken from the water, skim the grease and add forty pounds of corn meal and five pounds of buckwheat to the water, putting in a little at a time, stirring as put in. Cook slowly for five hours. Seasoning should be added before buckwheat and corn meal are put in, consisting of:

2 ounces white pepper, 1 ounce red pepper, 8 ounces sage, 4 pounds salt.

After the meal and water has been cooked about four hours and forty-five minutes, add the heads, tongues and livers, stir thoroughly about fifteen minutes, shut off steam, and place in pan. When about cool, but while plastic, add to each pan top a coating of the grease skimmed from cooking.

_Bologna Sausage in Oil._--This is a sausage manufactured quite extensively by packers, who find the principal markets for it in the south. In fact, it is not used anywhere but in warm climates and it is usually put up in twenty-pound and fifty-pound tin packages.

Much experimenting has been done to ascertain the best size for packages to put up sausage in oil. The following formula is generally considered to be a good method for making this sausage:

20 pounds fresh head pork meat, 50 pounds fresh pork hearts, 30 pounds fresh regular pork trimmings, 15 pounds fat pork trimmings, 80 pounds fresh beef cheek meat, 1 pound, 8 ounces corn flour, 3 pounds, 8 ounces salt, ¹⁄₂ ounce cloves, ¹⁄₂ ounce coriander, 3 ounces saltpetre.

Stuff in different sized beef rounds. The beef cheek meat, pork hearts, and pork cheek meat are ground through a ⁷⁄₆₄th inch plate, and afterward chopped with a “Silent Cutter” the seasoning being added at the same time.

Use no water in this sausage under any circumstances. After the beef and beef hearts, also the pork cheek meat, have been chopped as fine as desired, add the pork trimmings and chop the same as any other Bologna.

It is desirable to stuff this sausage immediately after it is chopped, and if a steam stuffer is used care should be taken that no water from the evaporation of the steam is allowed to get into the sausage. The bench where the sausage is stuffed should be absolutely free from water or moisture. This is the principal factor in the successful manufacture of this product.

After the sausage is stuffed, it is smoked about three hours at a temperature of 150° to 160° F., or until it is dry clear through. This sausage is not cooked. Keep it away from all water and moisture.

After the sausage is smoked allow it to cool in a dry airy room, but do not put it in a cooler. When it is thoroughly cool, pack into twenty-pound and fifty-pound packages, as desired, as follows: In twenty-pound cans, place sixteen pounds Bologna and four pounds oil. In fifty-pound cans, place thirty-six pounds Bologna and fourteen pounds oil.

In order to pack the cans properly, it is necessary to stuff different sized beef rounds, as mentioned above, so that they will fit in nicely without breaking the casings, and without filling the cans too full.

After the cans have been filled with the required amount of Bologna, crimp on the summer top, which has a two-inch hole and a cap to fit. Fill the cans as full as possible with deodorized cotton seed oil, which must be cold. Allow the cans to stand for thirty minutes, then refill so that the oil runs over the top through the hole, put on the cap immediately and solder right through the oil which will accumulate around the cap and on the top of the can. This will not hinder the process of soldering and it prevents the possibility of any air getting into the cans.

After the caps have been secured, solder around the crimps of the summer top. This can be done before the oil is put in if desired. Extreme care must be used in soldering the cans so that no air whatever gets in, or oil leaks out, as the sausage will spoil if this occurs.

The cans should also be fitted with the regular covers so as to protect the summer top. Pack in crates, the twenty-pound size, two to four to a crate; the fifty-pound size, one to two to a case.

The case should be large enough so as to admit of packing sawdust beneath the bottom, around the sides and on the tops. A crate large enough to permit one-half inch space around the cans is the size generally used and there should be a partition in the crates where more than one can is packed in a crate.

In freighting this class of merchandise in the south, in fact wherever it is shipped, it receives more or less rough handling and a great many freight handlers use box hooks, which they stick into the sides of the crates, and if there is not sufficient protection from the amount of sawdust put in, the cans are punctured, the oil leaks out and the sausage spoils. Sausage handled in the above manner has been known to keep two years in temperature ranging from 40° to 100° F.

_Pork Sausage in Oil._--Use the same formula as for regular pork sausage except that the trimmings must be moderately lean, and the sausage _absolutely_ free from water. Use also the same spices. Stuff immediately after the sausage is chopped, using the same care as to moisture as for Bologna in oil, and smoke over a very cold smoke until the sausage seems dry all the way through. Allow it to cool, handling and packing in every other respect the same as Bologna Oil.

=Bologna Varnish.=--Where it can be used and not conflict with Food regulations bologna varnish can be used to advantage. It improves the appearance and decreases shrinkage. As considerable water is used, in addition to the natural moisture in meats there is, after it is manufactured, considerable shrinkage, and if allowed to hang for any length of time, the casings become wrinkled on account of the evaporation of this internal moisture. The varnishing of the sausage creates a covering on the outside which prevents this wrinkled appearance, improving its looks, and retarding the evaporation of moisture from the sausage. The formula is as follows:

6 pounds white shellac, 1 pound boracic acid, 2 pounds aqua ammonia, 14 pounds of water.

The mixture should be put into a vessel and heated to a point where the shellac is well dissolved. When this is accomplished, add four gallons of water. This varnish, in order to be ready for use at any time, must be kept lukewarm. It should, therefore, be kept in a jacketed pan, surrounded by either hot water or steam, to hold it at the proper temperature. The sausage should be immersed and immediately hung up to dry.

This varnish can be used without any detrimental effect whatever on all kinds of smoked Bologna sausage or smoked cooked pressed ham. It preserves the sausage, keeps it from molding, and is especially effective where it is necessary to pack Bologna in boxes for shipment long distances.

Where the dipping pan is used, it is only necessary to dip the sausage in the above solution a few seconds before hanging on racks to dry. The sausage is usually ready for shipment in one hour after it is dipped, if the preparation is properly made, where a large amount of Bologna is being dipped it is, of course, necessary to have a larger dripping pan and a larger quantity of varnish. The proportions should be increased accordingly.

It is also important that, after the varnish has stood from one period of dipping to another, to skim the grease off the top of the varnish before again using it, and the Bologna should always be dipped immediately after it is taken from the cooking vats; in other words, while _hot_.

=Boiled Ham.=--Boiled ham and shoulders, also cooked meats, are usually included as a sausage product. There is nothing that determines the cost of the finished product as much as the shrinkage, hence the method that will produce the least loss in weight from original to finished product is the process desired.

There are two methods of cooking hams, one is to steam them in a retort or some receptacle where they are cooked by the heat generated by steam; another is to cook them in water. The latter process, from careful observation, seems to be the one that gives the best results as regards the shrinkage, although steaming perhaps makes the ham more palatable. The hams before being cooked should be bound and wrapped with twine to hold them in shape. A form made of galvanized iron, clamping plates which are put into a press, with the ham tightly clamped on the inside should be used. The ham is cooked and chilled in this mold.

The cure of the ham has much to do with the shrinkage and it is therefore preferable to use fully cured hams instead of old cured hams, as the shrinkage is greater on over-cured meats. It is also advisable to sort the hams as to size, having each vat or tank of hams uniform. If not uniform in size there is an excessive shrinkage on small hams which are overcooked. In all cases the hams should be soaked, removing the surplus salt. The length and time of soaking depends altogether on the age of the meats. The hams should be thoroughly washed and if they are to be branded this should be done before they are boned or cooked.

_Rules for Boiling Hams._--When hams are boned (if desirable) and wrapped, they should be put into a vat of water, temperature about 212° and the temperature regulated until it reaches 155° to 160° F. The hams are held at this temperature until they are cooked, which requires somewhat longer time than when they are cooked, by steam at a higher temperature. A twelve-pound ham will require from four and one-half to five hours. After the hams are cooked they should be allowed to cool in the water in which they were cooked; not taken out, or drained, or set in the cooler, for in the water in which they are cooked are juices which are absorbed by the hams as they cool, and the shrinkage is much less than if taken out immediately. The hams should then be taken to the smoke house, laid on racks and given a very light smoke, then to the cooler.

_Shrinkage in Boiling Hams._--Hams taken out of pickle and drained for twelve hours to shipping weight, will show the following shrinkages under favorable circumstances:

Per cent. Hams not boned, smoked after cooking 9 to 12 Hams with bone out, including the shank bone, skin on, not fatted 12¹⁄₂ to 18 Hams with bone out, skin lifted, fat removed 18 to 23 Hams with bone out, the skin and fat removed 33 to 40 Hams skinned, fatted, bones left in 28 to 35 Skinned shoulders, bone out 30 to 35