Part 14

The lake Sequarema, in the vicinity of Ponta Negra, is six miles long from east to west, and three at the widest part; the water is salt, abounding with fish, and separated from the sea by a narrow tract of land. During the rainy season, when it inundates the adjacent country, in consequence of the superabundance of waters brought by the small streams, the dwellers near it open a channel to the ocean from its eastern extremity, which is soon filled up again, on the return of dry weather, by the flowing of the sea. The river Tinguy, which runs into its most northern bay, is the principal one that it receives. Upon the neck of land which divides it from the ocean, a parish has originated, called Our Lady of Nazareth, whose parishioners grow Indian corn, mandioca, and feijao, and are fishermen, which occupation constitutes their chief gain.

Between the lake Sequarema, and the Cururupina, is situated the Jacuné, which is near three miles in length, and of proportionable width.

The lake Jacarépua lies between the Sequarema and Araruama, comprising two miles of length, and something less in width. The lake Vermelha, about the same size, is near the western extremity of the Araruama, and although it has no communication with the sea, its waters are saline.

The lake Boacica, situated two leagues to the south of the river Maccahé, and approximating the ocean, is about three miles long, and half a mile at the greatest width, has not much depth, is impregnated with salt, and abounds with fish, which enter it from the sea by the channel formed for the egress of its waters at the period of the floods. It is the receptacle of the river from which it derives its name; also, of the Serraria, the Mutum, the Riacho d’Alagoa, and the Riachinho.

The lake of Juthurnuahibi, two miles in diameter, and one to seven fathoms in depth, receives the rivers Bucasca and Capibary; has an outlet into the ocean, which is winding, deep, navigable, and taking the name of the first river, is seven leagues distant, and only three in a direct line from the lake.

Cape Frio, called a city, although not so large as a moderate town, is divided into two parts, by an interval of half a mile, both being without regularity, and situated upon the southern margin of the eastern extremity of the lake Araruama. The principal portion has a church of Our Lady of Assumption, a hermitage of St. Bento, and a Franciscan monastery. The chapel of Our Lady of Cuia crowns the summit of a rock, from whence is beheld a great extent of sea and land. The smaller portion of the city, denominated Passagem, defended by the fort of St. Mattheus, has another hermitage of St. Benedicto. This city has royal masters of the primitive letters and Latin. The inhabitants eagerly follow the pursuit of fishing, their principal and most lucrative occupation; fish being their common diet and their chief exportation. It was taken in the year 1615, when Portugal was under the dominion of Philip II.; and when, like many other places, it took the title of city, upon the occasion of some Rotterdam pirates being repulsed, who wished to establish themselves there, for the purpose of exporting dye-wood. Here is a Juiz de Fora, whose power extends to the town of Maccahé. Fevers are the prevailing disease of the country.

St. Joam de Maccahé, situated upon both banks of the river from which it takes its name, was created a town in 1814, and has a church called Santa Anna. The inhabitants, who are fishermen, produce some Indian corn, rice, feijao, mandioca, and sugar, but their principal object of trade is timber. The parish of St. Joam, at the embouchure of the river of the same name, is well situated to render it in time a considerable town. Timber forms the riches of its inhabitants, who also export a variety of the necessaries of life.

The district of Goytacazes, comprising twenty-eight leagues of coast, bounded on the south by the river Maccahé, and on the north by the Cabapuana, originally formed the capitania of St. Thomé, and so denominated from the contiguous cape. Pedro de Goes, who had frequented the Brazil for ten years, was its first donatory; and although, the period of this donation is not recorded, it was most probably about the year 1537, as the first allusion to him is in the year 1527, when he transported some Indians from St. Vincente to Portugal. This fidalgo established himself and the colonists who accompanied him, upon the banks of the river Parahiba, where they lived in amity with the Indians two years, succeeded by five of inveterate warfare, in which the aborigines displayed such bravery and determined resistance, particularly the Goytacazes, (the name of which tribe the district retains,) that Goes was compelled to retire to the capitania of Espirito Santo, where the donatory Coutinho was already established. From thence he returned to Lisbon, and, in the year 1549, accompanied Thomé de Souza to Bahia; but neither himself nor successors were fortunate in endeavouring to colonize the capitania of St. Thomé, which was in the possession of three different nations, the Puris, Guarus, and Goytacazas; the latter were the most numerous, and divided into three hordes, the Goytaza Guassu, Goytacaza Moppy, and Goytacaza Jacorito, the avowed enemies of each other. It is affirmed, that the Guarus comprised various nations, one of which, the Sacarus, still exists in the Organ Mountains.

Gil de Goes was its third donatory, at the time of its devolvement to the crown. King Peter II. granted it to Viscount d’Asseca in the year 1674; but, in consequence of the mal-administration of his successors producing considerable dissatisfaction, and various revolts amongst the colonists, King Joseph was induced, by commutation, to incorporate it with the crown lands; and Francisco de Sales, ouvidor of Espirito Santo, took possession of it, in the year 1752, in the name of his sovereign, to the great joy of the inhabitants.

From the river Parahiba, northward, a cordillera runs parallel with, and at no great distance from the coast; the intervening space, denominated Cacimbas, is mountainous, and in parts sterile, and ill adapted to agricultural purposes. From the Parahiba to the Maccahé, the whole country presents _campinhas_, or continued plains, with some small woods, called _capoes_, and is irrigated by various streams.

The soil is appropriated to the produce of cocoa, coffee, indigo, and rice; wheat might be cultivated with advantage. Mandioca grows best in the southern parts of the district, and sugar is cultivated in the proximity of the rivers Parahiba and Muriahe, to a very considerable extent. The number of sugar works in this district, in the year 1801, amounted to two hundred and eighty, of which ninety were very large. Since that period they have increased rapidly, and the sugars produced upon the margins of those rivers are esteemed the best in the Brazil, usually known by the denomination of Campos sugars. Indian corn, feijao, mandioca flour, tobacco, and cotton, are produced only in sufficient quantity for the consumption of the district. All the species of domestic animals are bred, none of them, however, are remarkable for their fecundity. Cattle are not in sufficient number for the consumption of the population, and the working of sugar _engenhos_. The mules are not so large as those of Rio Grande, and Curitiba, but are superior in strength. Goats and sheep degenerate here. Hogs are not numerous, neither is the pork good. The north and south-west winds generally prevail, and scarcely a day passes, that the atmosphere is not refreshed with a strong breeze from one of these quarters. Part of the timber exported by the river Maccahé, is derived from the woods of this district, which afford a variety of medicinal plants.

RIVERS AND LAKES.--We have already described the Parahiba, which is the chief river of this district, and traverses it from west to east.

The river Muriahe, to which is attributed forty miles of course in a direct line, rises in the serra of Pico, in the territory of the Puri Indians, takes a winding direction to the south-east, until it enters the Parahiba, is navigable for the space of twenty-five miles, and has a fall, where the canoes are dragged over land. When the cultivation of its fertile margins first commenced, (at this day abounding with sugar-works,) its waters were so pestilential, that many who drank of them were attacked with malignant fevers, which either terminated their days, or left them through life pallid and diseased. Even the necessaries of life, which grew upon the lands inundated by its floods, were pestiferous. Its largest confluent is denominated the Rio Morto, or Dead River, in consequence of having a very tranquil current, the waters of which, are muddy, from its origin in a morass. The margins of the Muriahe produce a poisonous _cipo_ plant, with long and flexible shoots, called _timbo_, or _tingui_, and a tree denominated _guaratimbo_, the infectious qualities of which are attributed to the malignancy of its waters.

The river Maccabu originates in the skirt of the Serra Salvador, little removed from the source of the before-mentioned river St. Pedro. It is serpentine, tranquil, flows principally through a swampy country to the north-east, discharges itself into the lake Feia, and is navigable, without falls, pretty nearly to its origin.

The river Imbe, which rises at the base of the above serra, seven miles from the head of the Maccabu, and runs for a considerable space parallel with it, receives near its commencement, by the left bank, three streams, called the Three Rivers of the North, (which have their origin in the situation of Tres Picos, where there is gold,) and traverses the lake of Cima, from whence it flows to the lake Feia, with the name of Ururahi. The bed is winding and the current slow. Large canoes advance up without obstacle, almost to its heads.

The above-mentioned Ururahi, (the outlet to the lake of Cima,) the margins of which abound with plantations of the sugar-cane and mandioca, describes a semicircle to the north, approaching the Parahiba, with which an advantageous communication might be opened, by cutting a canal across a plain, not exceeding four miles in width.

The lake Feia consists of two unequal parts, united by a narrow channel. The one lies to the north, near twenty miles in length from east to west, and upwards of twelve in width; the other to the south, sixteen miles in length, and only two in width. It is an interesting lake, abounds with fish, and so inconsiderable in depth, that canoes can only proceed by certain channels. The water is fresh and wholesome. It has within its precincts a considerable peninsula, upon the isthmus of which is situated the church of the parish of the Lady of Remedios, and presenting a delightful aspect. The margins of this lake are marshy, and it discharges itself by various channels, which, describing extensive circuits, form many islands, and without which, none of those channels would have made their way to the ocean, in consequence of an extensive, high, and solid sand-bank, formed by the sea. All the channels re-unite at divers points, and form another lake, many leagues in length, with the width of a spacious river, stretching, for its whole extent, along the said sand-bank; across a certain part of which it opens annually an outlet, that presents the appearance of a considerable and furious river, called Furado, at the time the internal receptacles are overflown. The southern or principal of these channels is called Iguassu, or the river Castanheta. This district might be cleared from water, by the introduction of some hydraulic machines, (as in some parts of Lincolnshire), when the grounds would afford pasturage, and become susceptible of cultivation at all times.

Three leagues to the north of the river Maccahé, is situated the lake Carapebas, about four miles in length from east to west, of unequal and inconsiderable width, separated from the ocean by a sand-bank, which it breaks down in the rainy season, in some parts, for the egress of the waters. It is well stored with a variety of fish. Near the right margin of the Parahiba, between the towns of St. Salvador, and St. Joam, are the two Jahi lakes; also the Sequarema; the Campelo, upon the north side of the Parahiba, almost in front of the town of St. Joam; and the Pedras, which is a deep lake, having its channel of discharge denominated the Corrego do Jacare, between the town of St. Salvador and the mouth of the river Muriahe. Lake Cima is five miles long, and more than sixteen hundred fathoms at its greatest width, comprehending the gulf called Pernambuca.

The fine campos, or plains, of this district would certainly become the Elysium of Brazil, if its territory, rich in soil, were divided into certain portions and delivered to a people animated with a spirit of agricultural improvement. But the same unfortunate circumstances which we have previously described to exist in the donation of lands, concur, unhappily, to place those campos, at least the greater part, in the hands of three proprietors; namely, the Benedictine monastery of Rio de Janeiro, the purchaser of the ex-Jesuitical possessions, and a titular.

St. Salvador, or Campos, is a large, populous, and flourishing town, situated upon a plain on the right margin of the Parahiba, eighteen miles distant from the ocean, and four below the mouth of the Muriahe. Besides the mother church, it has a house of misericordia, three hermitages dedicated to the Lady of Rosario, Boa Morte, and Lapa; also two Terceira orders of St. Francisco and Carmo, and a hospital. The youth of this place are instructed by persons having the usual high sounding titles of royal professors of the primitive letters and Latin. Justice is administered by a head magistrate, denominated a Juiz de Fora,[17] (a judge without.) An account recently taken of the population of this town states it to contain eleven hundred and fifty families, which may be fairly computed to comprise twelve thousand souls.

The town of St. Joam da Parahiba derives the name from its church and the river upon which it is situated, and is distant about two miles from the sea, in front of the extremity of a small island. Sugar constitutes the riches of its inhabitants, who do not exceed fifteen hundred; and it is the port from whence the principal produce of the Campos, consisting of that article, is shipped in coasting vessels to the capital.

Eight miles up the Maccahé is situated the parish of the Lady of Neves, which originated in an establishment of a tribe of Garulho Indians, but now almost extinct, and succeeded by whites, who fell timber and are farmers of the same necessaries of life as their predecessors.

Upon the Parahiba, between the town of St. Salvador and the mouth of the river Muriahe, the parish of St. Antonio occupies a delightful situation. It was founded for the habitation of a horde of Indian Garulhos, who have insensibly disappeared. Its district is extensive, and abounds with sugar-works.

Thirty miles above the town of St. Salvador, and two below the last fall of the Parahiba, the aldeia or village of St. Fidelis, is agreeably and secludedly situated. It is an Indian parish, and was founded by three padres, one of whom, two years ago, was still living, and had the whole management of this establishment. A French gentleman, who was shipwrecked at the mouth of the Parahiba, proceeded through the Campos as far as this Indian village. He informed me, that, on leaving the plains cultivated with the plantations of the sugar-cane, he had to traverse a thick wood, rendered more difficult to penetrate by the wild grass and almost impervious underwood at the bottom of the higher trees. After a laborious march of five hours, this gentleman reached the aldeia, which consisted of a stone church, decorated with saints and much finery. It was fronted by the padre’s house at no great distance; both sides of this space were occupied by the huts of the Indians, over whom, from the imposing show of religious ceremony, and occasional personal chastisement, the padre had acquired a perfect command. Part of the Indians were employed in his house for domestic purposes; others in the cultivation of the necessaries of life; some were occupied in fishing in the Parahiba; and others, of proved fidelity, in shooting game in the surrounding woods; and thus subsistence was procured for the establishment. The domestic arrangement, however, of this priest was truly miserable.

The savage Indians frequently carry off by force some of their Christianized brethren, and display an inveterate antipathy to civilization. The tribes on the northern bank of the Parahiba, bordering upon the Portuguese establishments, are considered much more cruel than those on the southern, and have afforded various and recent proofs of cannibalism. On some occasions they lie in ambush near pathways, and, with their arrows, pierce the stranger to the heart, and feast upon his body. A proprietor of a sugar-work was carried off about three years ago, and devoured by them; and since that time three or four negroes have shared the same fate. They are addicted to plunder, and commit at times great devastation amongst the sugar-plantations, advancing in bodies of fifty or sixty from the woods, and cutting down the canes, which they carry off to their retreats. They are great cowards; and, on those appointed to keep watch giving the alarm of the approach of a single individual, they fly precipitately. They are exceedingly alarmed at the report of a gun. Two soldiers, equipped with jackets, stuffed with cotton and quilted, (which are almost impenetrable to the arrows of the Indian,) and with muskets, very recently proceeded from Villa Rica, (in Minas Geraes,) and penetrated as far as this district, through the woods covering the fertile territory on both banks of the Parahiba, to the possession of which the ounce assumes a right as well as the savage.

Of the ancient tribes the Puris is the principal one now remaining in those uncleared regions. It is a lamentable circumstance that the Brazilian government does not adopt some effectual plan to render these extensive and fertile territories of the Parahiba subservient to the wants of civilized man. The absence of comfort in the houses of the planters in the Goytacaze district is very conspicuous, and they have yet much to learn in the school of hospitality.

St. Gonçalo and St. Sebastiam are parishes of this district, both situated upon the Parahiba, and a few leagues distant from the principal town.

The district of Canta Gallo (Singing Cock) is a territory of great fertility, and irrigated by many rivers and smaller streams, which issue from the Organ Mountains, its southern limit, and discharge themselves into the Parahiba, which separates it from Minas Geraes on the north. It is bounded on the east by a continuation of the Organ range, which divides it from Goytacazes; and on the west by the river Piabanha, which separates it from Parahiba Nova. It has mines of gold, for the working of which the first colony was established in the year 1785. The _fifths_ on the gold, rendered to the crown, in the four following years, were above ten thousand cruzades; and the duty upon agricultural productions amounted to eight thousand in the same period.

Amongst its rivers may be remarked the Pequequera, well stored with fish and navigable for the space of twenty miles; the Rio Negro, little less voluminous, and navigable for an equal distance, and also abounding with fish; the Bengales; and one called Rio Grande.

The major part of the territory, up to the epoch of its colonization, was under the dominion of the Coroado Indians, the remains of the ancient Goytacazes, at present not numerous, and allied to the conquerors. Their houses are large, constructed of timber and earth; they are of extraordinary length, covered with grass, or the bark of trees, with one door only, and without a single window. One of these rudely-constructed edifices will contain fifty, sometimes eighty, and even one hundred families. Generally each house constitutes an aldeia; very rarely two are met with together. Every morning, at the break of day, on hearing the song of a species of partridge, called _macuco_, (which sits upon trees during the night,) they immediately rise, and, although it rains, they go and bathe in the nearest torrent or lake; for which purpose a signal is made by the sound of an instrument formed of a cane.

Their marriage ceremonies consist of a species of banquet, at which all the inhabitants of the aldeia assemble; and generally the whole party become intoxicated. Immediately on being sensible of the approach of labour, the women retire into a wood, where they become mothers without any assistance whatever, and return with their infants, already covered with the juice of certain herbs, to render them less susceptible of cold.

These natives inter their dead in a sitting posture. Formerly the cemeteries of their caciques, or captains, consisted of cylindrical earthen vases, denominated _cammucis_; some of which have been recently found, containing bones.

These Indians use the bow and arrow only. The arrow is a species of cane, with a point of peculiarly hard wood, exposed to the fire till it acquires the greatest degree of consistency; some, intended for large animals, are formed at the point like a sword; others triangular and quadrangular.

A man who returns to the house after an absence of many days does not say a single word, in compliment, to his family, nor do they receive him in any other manner than if he had only been to fetch water from the fountain.

In 1814 the parish of Santissimo Sacramento was created a town, with the name of St. Pedro de Canta Gallo. Its civil government is conducted by two ordinary judges, three magistrates, and various minor officers. It is a middling town, traversed by a current of good water, which flows to the river Macuco. Its inhabitants, and those of its extensive district, prefer agriculture to mining, and they cultivate the usual necessaries of life belonging to the country.

In this district is the parish of St. Joze de Leonissa, upon the Parahiba, in front of the embouchure of the river Pomba, was created a parish in 1812, and is a _povoacāo_, abounding with fish and all the necessaries of life. Its inhabitants are yet almost all Indians.

Between the rivers Pomba and Parahiba, about six miles distant from the angle of their confluence, the parish of St. Antonio de Padua was erected, in 1812, in a district well adapted to the culture of various branches of agriculture.

The dwellers of the northern margin of the Parahiba are diocesans of Rio de Janeiro.

CHAP. V.

PROVINCE OF RIO GRANDE DO SUL.

_Colonization--Boundaries--Climate--Aspect and Productions-- Contests between Spaniards and Portuguese--Divisionary Line between these two Powers--Opposition by the Indians of the Seven Missions--Their Defeat--Revived Contests between Spaniards and Portuguese--Mountains--Rivers--Lakes--Capes and Ports--Islands--Mineralogy--Phytology--Zoology--Large Fazendas for breeding Cattle--Mode of Management--Sheep-Flocks--Use of the Laço and Balls--Towns, Nature of Exports, Villages, &c. including those of the District of Monte Video._

This province, which includes the major part of the territory to the south of the capitania of St. Amaro, either had no donatories when John III. divided the coast, or from some other cause it was not colonized. Neither was its colonization accomplished by Viscount D’Asseca, nor his brother, John Correa de Sa, at the period of the great distributions of land which Peter II. granted to them in the territory denominated St. Gabriel, adjacent to the river Plate.