Part 5

King John III. at last roused by the attempts which the French merchants were making to form establishments near the places now called Pernambuco and Bahia, also by the formation of colonies, which the Spaniards were promoting on the banks of the Paraguay, determined to people this continent; and, in order to facilitate the colonization, he divided the coast into certain large portions of fifty leagues, which, under the denomination of capitanias, (captaincies,) were to be bestowed on individuals distinguished by their services to the crown; and who were to go personally, or to send colonists, in ships, at their own cost, receiving an uncontrolled jurisdiction over these royal donations. The historian, Joam de Barros, who was one of the donatories, and was presented with the district of Maranham, affirms that the country was partitioned into twelve captaincies; but there were actually only nine, as five portions which he probably took into his account, were divided betwixt Martim Affonso de Souza and his brother Pedro Lopez de Souza, who were the two first donatories that settled in the Brazil. Martim Affonso, who has been previously mentioned, received a considerable tract of country contiguous to St. Vincente, where we left him endeavouring to form a colony. Pedro Lopez chose his quantum of territory in two lots, one near his brother’s, called St. Amaro, and the other denominated Itamaraca, at a very inconvenient distance from the first, situated not far from Pernambuco, which latter capitania, as has been already stated, became the portion of Duarthe Coelho Pereyra. The lands adjacent to the southern Parahiba river were conceded to Pedro de Goes. The country betwixt the great river St. Francisco, which was the southern boundary of Pernambuco, and Bahia, was allotted to Francisco Pereira Coutinho. The next portion of territory, proceeding southward, was denominated the Capitania dos Ilheos, running north and south from the Rio dos Ilheos, (River of Islands,) and granted to Jorge Figueiredo Correa. Cabral’s Porto Seguro was included in the range of coast which formed the capitania of the same name, and was a donation to Pedro Campo Tourinha. Espirito Santo (Holy Spirit) was the appellation given to the next in rotation, and obtained by Vasco Fernandez Coutinho. Rio de Janeiro was not colonized for some time afterwards. This mode of allotment was not calculated to maintain a long duration. The captains possessed despotic jurisdiction over the colonists, many of whom were degradados, or criminals, consequently less adapted to live in harmony, and the whole being at the mercy of the former, complaints were frequent; so that, after a lapse of about seventeen years from its commencement, this system was terminated by a royal revocation of the power of the captains, followed by the appointment of Thomé de Souza, a fidalgo, as governor-general of the Brazil, who arrived at Bahia, the bay of All Saints, in April 1549, with instructions to build a city, which was to be called St. Salvador. The fleet was accompanied by some Jesuits, who thus obtained in the Brazilian regions, those means of improving the condition of the Indians, and of the country in other respects, which has been so honourable to their Trans-Atlantic character, and which presents so pleasing and striking a contrast to their conduct in Europe, filled as that conduct was with “treasons, stratagems, and spoils.” With the mother-country, this colony passed under the dominion of the Spanish crown, in the year 1580, for a period of nearly sixty years. The Dutch possessed themselves of Pernambuco in the year 1630, and ultimately of the whole country from the great river St. Francisco to Maranham, which they retained till the year 1654. The last Philip, just before the Brazil reverted to the Portuguese, conferred the title of Viceroy upon the governor-general at Bahia, who then was the Marquis of Montalvam, and which honour all his successors enjoyed. The seat of the vice-regal government was transferred by Don Joseph I. from Bahia to Rio de Janeiro, in 1773, which expired on the arrival of the royal family in that country, in the year 1808. Don John IV. gave the title of Prince of Brazil to his eldest son, Prince Don Theodosio, which descended to all the hereditary princes of the house of Braganza, till the 17th of December, 1815, when the Prince Regent, (now Don John VI.) raised that country into a kingdom.

The Brazil is of such prodigious extent, that it will be impossible for it to arrive even at a medium state of perfection under the dominion of one government. Its prominent boundaries, now that Monte Video is in the possession of the Portuguese, may be geographically considered the river Amazons and the Atlantic on the north; the river Plate on the south; the ocean on the whole of its prolonged range of eastern coast; and the great rivers Madeira, &c. running north; the Paraguay and Uruguay stretching south to the river Plate, on the west; although the two provinces of Solimoes and Guianna, north of the Amazons, and actually subordinate to the governor of Para, carry its northern boundaries, politically speaking, almost as far as the Oronocos, making its length upwards of forty degrees. Its greatest width is about thirty degrees, from Cape St. Augustin to Point Abuná, upon the margin of the river Madeira.

This vast region, comprising nearly two millions of square miles, is now divided into twenty-two provinces, including the two mentioned above, viz.

Guianna } Para } Maranham } Siará } Rio Grande, North } Parahiba } Pernambuco } All bordering in Seregipe d’El Rey } part upon the Bahia } coast. Porto Seguro } Espirito Santo } Rio de Janeiro } St. Paulo } St. Catharina } Rio Grande, South }

Mato Grosso } Paraná } Uruguay } Solimoes } Interior provinces. Piauhy } Minas Geraes } Goyaz }

The zoology and phytology of this country extend to such an infinity of objects, that they would form a separate history of themselves. They, as well as mineralogy, will be partially treated upon in the topography of each province. In reference to the first subject, it may be here observed, that a very considerable portion of the Brazil is still occupied by Indians, consisting of a vast number of nations, more or less numerous, and generally divided into tribes or hordes, wandering about in a state of nudity, the principal part of their time employed in hunting, gathering honey, and such fruits as nature spontaneously produces. They believe in the immortality of the soul and a Creator of all, whom they commonly denominate _Tupan_, and, like many other barbarians, their adoration is divided between the good and evil spirit, which latter they call _Anhanga_. No state of government is found amongst them; each tribe has its elective captain, who directs them only on occasions of assaults and in forming ambuscades against an enemy. Each nation has its peculiar idiom, but there is one exists amongst them denominated the general lingua, which is the _Tupinamba_. At this day many tribes retain the ancient custom of perforating their faces and using pieces of wood as ornaments. In contracting marriages, the degree of relationship is not respected. Polygamy is admitted amongst particular individuals only, in a very few nations. Divorcements are generally very rare amongst them. They are acquainted with no liberal art, and have a great antipathy to civilization. Thousands of instances have occurred, in which they have preferred fleeing from it back again into the woods, in pursuit of their former rude habits. The governor of one of the comarcas of Minas Geraes related to me an instance of an Indian who, instructed in the Catholic faith, had actually entered upon the functions of a priest, and who, notwithstanding, was afterwards induced, from the natural bent of his mind, to abscond and rejoin his uncivilized tribe. Their inherent indolence is conspicuous, and they have but little consideration in life beyond the acquirement of their daily sustenance. Frequent instances occur of their assassinating some of the Portuguese, for whom they lie in ambush. The Portuguese almost universally provide themselves with fire-arms, on traversing the districts inhabited by the Indians, at which they are greatly terrified. Such as live upon the banks of auriferous rivers or lands, and come in contact with the Portuguese, will give pieces of gold for trifling articles of European manufacture, particularly knives, the metal of which they consider of such value, that, in sharpening them, they do not use a whetstone, but a piece of wood, in order that the blade may experience as little diminution as possible by the operation. Few Indians are seen in any of the seaport-towns of the Brazil. Some are employed in the bay of Rio de Janeiro, rowing boats in the service of the government. They appear to keep themselves quite distinct, and do not mix with any other class of people. They are not tall, but their early occupation of hunting has given to their limbs much strength and agility. A fine proportion of form is their general characteristic, and they possess great muscular powers. Their features are regular, and there is an universal resemblance between them and the various tribes. They are of a copper-colour, with strong, lank, black hair, which is permitted to hang over their ears, necks, and foreheads, adding something to the sombre aspect of their countenances, which are sad even to an extreme. If they were capable of learning from history, and appreciating with feelings of patriotism the force of such an event, it might naturally appear to be a dejection originating in the corroding idea of the conquest of their country by strangers; but this apparent characteristic melancholy can only be the result of, and founded upon, their former habits of life and precarious mode of subsistence; which having once contracted, and possessing an innate aversion to civilized intercourse, may never totally disappear. There is nothing ferocious in their physiognomy; on the contrary, they seem very inoffensive. I never saw them indulge in any gaiety, rarely laughing, and speaking seldom. They are expert rowers, and on a transient cessation from their labour, exhibit no disposition to hold converse with each other, nor curiosity or interest in the objects and bustle around them. The Jesuits were undoubtedly the best class of ecclesiastics who have hitherto visited the Brazil, not only, as has been observed, in initiating the Indians into Christianity, but in the general pursuit and encouragement of literature. The missions, for which they were so celebrated, will come under consideration in treating of the provinces where they instituted them; also the establishments of Christianized Indians, as well as the numerous savage tribes existing at the present day.

As the colonization of the capitania of Rio de Janeiro did not occur till after the Brazil was placed under the jurisdiction of a governor-general, and no allusion having been made to that event in the course of these preliminary observations, besides having long assumed the highest rank amongst the provinces of the Brazil, it naturally presents itself first in order, as well as the circumstances arising out of a residence in its capital, for our consideration.

CHAP. III.

PROVINCE OF RIO DE JANEIRO.

_Its Colonization--Contests with the French and Tamoyo Indians --Expulsion of the French--Foundation of St. Sebastian-- Boundaries--Division into Comarcas--Mountains--Principal Rivers--Lakes--Bays--Capes--Islands--Mineralogy--Zoology--Phytology --Cities and Towns--Boundaries, Towns, and Productions of the Comarcas of Ilha Grande and Parahiba Nova--Boundaries of the Comarca of Rio de Janeiro--The Metropolis--Situation--English Burial-Ground--Streets--Royal Mode of riding--Compulsory Homage upon the Occasion--Churches--Convents--Gloria Hill--Female Convents--Visit to one--Fountains--Visit to the Aqueduct--Squares--Palace--Public Buildings--Public Garden--Library--Manufactories--Theatre--Roads leading from the City--Palace of St. Christovāo--Troops of Miners and others from the Interior--Caza de Don Pedro--Royal Mill, Shacara, and Stables--Fire-Works--Beija Maō--Fidalgos and higher Orders of Society--Splendour of Churches--Royal Chapel--Religious Festivals and Observances--Funeral Processions--Catacombs--The Host--State of Society--Markets._

Joam de Solis, who has been already mentioned, entered the bay of Rio de Janeiro, in the year 1515, on his second voyage to South America; and about four years afterwards Fernando de Magellan, and Ruy Falleiro, a famous Portuguese mathematician who accompanied him, also remained a short time in it, bestowing upon it the name of St. Luzia. Martini Alfonso de Souza, who was engaged in an exploration of the whole coast, went into the bay on the 1st of January, 1532, and very improperly gave it the name, which it yet retains, of Rio de Janeiro, (River of January,) evincing, what would not be supposed to be possible, that he considered it a river. No attempts were made, however, to form any settlements here till the year 1555, when M. Villegagnon, a Frenchman, who had rescued Queen Mary from Scotland, with his comrades, took possession of the second island, after passing the entrance into the bay. His avowed object was that of propagating Calvinism in the new world. On this island, which took and still retains his name, he constructed the fort of Coligni, in honour of the excellent man and famous admiral, Gaspar de Coligni, his patron and warm supporter in establishing this colony, to which, in the following year, he despatched a further succour of three ships of war and near three hundred persons. King John III. of Portugal, receiving intelligence of this event, ordered Duarthe da Costa, then governor-general at Bahia, individually, to make himself acquainted with the actual state of the Protestants; but no attempts were made to displace them till after the death of the King, when Dona Catharina gave instructions to Mendo de Sa, the successor of Duarthe da Costa, to expel them, sending him two armed ships, with some caravels, which the governor augmented by some ships of war and two caravels that were in the port, and putting on board all the people he could assemble, personally embarked with the squadron. He visited all the intervening capitanias of the coast, and received on board all those who were willing to accompany him. The French defended themselves vigorously against the attacks of this fleet; but not being able to remedy the destruction and havoc which they sustained from the more powerful ships of the Portuguese, they retired by night to the continent, uniting themselves with the Tamoyo Indians, whose friendship they had previously conciliated. Mendo de Sa collected the artillery which the French had left, and, with one of their ships, which he found in the port, he returned to Bahia.

Intelligence was received afresh that the Protestants continued to frequent the bay of Rio de Janeiro, and were successively becoming more strongly fortified in the continental situations they had taken up. The crown of Portugal, now discovering of how much importance it would be effectually to take possession of and colonize this fine port, which having no donatory or forces to impede the establishment of whatever enemy might think proper to proceed there for that purpose, resolved to despatch Estacio de Sa to Bahia, with two galliots, and there to receive from his uncle, Mendo de Sa, the governor, such an accession of force as would enable him to extirpate the French. Estacio de Sa, having augmented the squadron as much as circumstances would allow, arrived at Rio de Janeiro in 1565, and took up a station near the Sugar-Loaf Mountain, at the place now called Villa Velha; but in various attacks, which he made upon the united French and Indians, fortune was never decisively propitious to him. This circumstance induced Mendo de Sa to prepare, in the bay of Bahia, an armament, which consisted of three galliots, commanded by Christovam de Barros, two ships of the crown, which were cruizing on the coast, and six caravels. This auxiliary force he accompanied in person to the assistance of his nephew, visiting, as before, the intervening capitanias, and offering to convey, gratuitously, all families who might wish to people the future colony; and, in consequence, a great many did accompany him. He arrived on the 18th of January, 1567, but deferred the attack till the 20th, that day being St. Sebastian’s, under whose auspices he meant to begin and carry on the enterprise. Two years had previously passed in useless and indecisive contention, which, in two days, Mendo de Sa brought to a successful termination, by possessing himself of the forts Urussumiri and Paranapucuy, not, however, without his followers feeling the effect of the arrows of the Tamoyos, which often transfixed the shield to the arm that supported it. Amongst others, Estacio de Sa received a wound from one of them, of which he expired a few days afterwards. The French escaped in four ships which they had in the harbour; and Mendo de Sa did not allow much time to elapse before he removed the first establishment to the situation now forming a ward or district of the present capital, denominated Misericordia, and there marked out its commencement. In honour of his patron saint, he gave it the name of St. Sebastian, which has given way to that of Rio de Janeiro now more generally used. The governor assigned to the celebrated Jesuit, Nobrega, ground, in the midst of the city, for a college, which he endowed for the support of fifty brethren. Having occupied himself near a year and a half in arranging every thing necessary for the continuation and security of the new city, he returned to the capital in June, 1568. He left for governor his nephew, Salvador Corrêa de Sa, whose administration was short, as well as that of Christovam de Barros, who succeeded him by royal patent, and whose jurisdiction over the affairs of the capitania terminated in 1572, when King Sebastian divided the state into two governments; the city of St. Sebastian becoming the capital of the southern division, which was delivered to Dr. Antonio Salema, with power over the capitanias from the river Belmont, southward. The same sovereign, becoming sensible of the inconvenience resulting to the crown from this partition, ordered that the general executive government should revert to its anterior state; and nominated, as successor to Salema, the said Salvador Corrêa de Sa, with patent of captain-general, dated the 10th January, 1576, and who remained in this situation until the year 1598. None of those who followed him governed during so long a period, with the exception of Sandozo Gomes Freyre d’Andrade, who discharged the duties of the appointment from the year 1733 to 1763, and which expired only with his life in the course of the latter year.

This province, which acquires its name from the magnificent port of its capital, now comprehends the ci-devant capitania of St. Thomé, half of that of St. Vincente, and a portion of Espirito Santo. It is bounded on the north by the latter, from which it is separated by the river Cabapuâna, and by the province of Minas Geraes, from which it is divided by the rivers Preto and Parahiba, and in part by the serra of Mantiqueira; on the south by the Atlantic Ocean, which also washes its eastern limits; and on the west by the province of St. Paulo. It is estimated to be sixty leagues in length, from east to west, near its northern extremity; and twenty-three leagues of medium width, reckoning from the fortress of St. Cruz, at the entrance of the bay of Rio de Janeiro, to the river Parahibuna, and to have fifty leagues of southern coast, from Cape Frio to Cape Trinidade, which is near three leagues to the west of Point Joatinga. It is divided by the Organ Mountains into two parts; Northern, or Serra-Acima, (Mountains above,) and Southern, or Beira-Mar, (Sea-coast,) which latter is subdivided into four, and the former into two districts or territories, as follows:--

{ Ilha Grande. Beira-Mar { Rio de Janeiro. { Cape Frio. { Goytacazes.

Serra-Acima { Parahiba-Nova. { Canto-Gallo.

A line drawn from south to north, commencing at the fort of Lage, at the entrance of the port of Rio, passing up the middle of the bay, by the river Inhumirim upwards, and on to the origin of the Piabanha, descending by it to the Parahiba, divides the province into east and west.

MOUNTAINS.--All the districts of this province, with the exception of Goytacazes, are picturesquely mountainous, and present an infinite variety of novel, sublime, and wondrous scenery, of which no verbal description can give an adequate representation. The Organ Mountains, so called from the similarity which their pyramidical heads, in various parts, bear to the front of an organ, are the principal. That portion of them which assimilates more distinctly to the object from which the whole range derives the name is an approximation of precipitous pointed masses, separated by profound winding and narrow valleys, through which romantic openings the way leads from Beira-Mar to the district of Canto-Gallo, without having to ascend any comparatively high elevations in traversing them. This is, indeed, the region of solemn and poetic sequestration. Its unchanged and primeval condition would appear to afford a suitable retirement for such as have acquired a calamity-induced distortion of the mind,--a misanthropical distaste to society and the world.

The Macacu, otherwise Serra-Grande, (Great Mountain,) the mountains of St. Anne, of Sambe, of Tapacora, and of Urussanga, are situated in that extremity betwixt the districts of Rio de Janeiro and Cape Frio; the Mount of St. Joam, a league above the emboucheur of the river of the same name, the Serra Jarixina, about twenty miles north-west of the capital, and that of Bocaina, in the district of Parahiba-Nova, constitute, together with the Organ Mountains, those of the greatest altitude in the province.