Part 16

The river Jacuhy (from the bird Jacús) is formed, on the western side of the cattle-plains, by a union of various streams, which irrigate those campos, and from whence it issues being already considerable. A few leagues after having traversed the General Serra it flows eastward, describing innumerable windings for a space of thirty leagues and on a sudden turns towards the south. After a further course of fifteen miles, having become a large river, it enters the western side of the lake Patos, about four leagues below its northern extremity. Amongst other smaller streams which swell its waters, after issuing from the serra, is the Vaccahy, which rises a few leagues to the north of the Ibicuí-Guaçu, and brings with it the Vaccahy-Mirim, which has its origin a short distance from that of the Jacuhy-Mirim. These rivers were so named after cattle began to graze near them. The gentle course of the Jacuhy is uninterrupted by cataracts, and is perfectly free to navigation. The Irapuan receives a great many currents, almost all muddy and brackish, and very cold. A species of soft black stone, with white particles like silver, are found upon many parts of its banks. On being burnt, it emits a sulphureous smell, assumes the appearance of charcoal, and is said to be of no higher value. The Butucarai comes from the north, and has a bridge. Near its mouth is the passage of Fandango. The Pigueri joins the Irohy, and comes from the Serro Pellado da Encruzilhada. The Tubatingahy originates between a serro and the Encruzilhada. The Pardo, having its source in a serra, runs through a country covered with wild woods; the large stones in its bed preclude navigation: it is passed by a bridge. The Capibari flows from the vicinity of the source of the Irohy. The Antos, formed by various currents, which issue from the lower part of the cordillera, after a considerable course towards the west, turns to the south, receives the Tibicoari, and, ten leagues farther, under the latter name, enters the Jacuhy, of which it is the largest tributary, affording an open navigation to yachts as far as the confluence, where it loses the first name. The adjacent country is fertile, producing beautiful pine and other trees of excellent timber. The Jacuhy, (ten leagues below the Jacoari,) at the part where on a sudden it turns to the south, is two miles in width, forming a bay, where it receives the Cahy, which issues from the plains on the summit of the General Serra, with a course of about twenty-five leagues, almost south, and affording a navigation to yachts of ten leagues. The Sino, something smaller, which rises on the top of the same serra, more to the south, runs south-west, and is navigable for a considerable distance. The Gravatahy, which has its origin in the same hills, further to the south, runs in the same direction, and affords navigation for a space of five leagues.

The rivers Igarupay, Daymar, and Gualeguay, are the principal ones which enter the Uruguay, by the left bank, between the mouths of the Ibicuí and the Negro.

The Maldonado, and the two rivers Solis, (small and great,) discharge themselves into the gulf of the river Plate. Rio Grande de St. Pedro is the name of the outlet of the lake of Patos, and is about ten miles in length almost north and south, near one league in width, and is situated sixty leagues north-east from Cape St. Mary. The lateral lands are very flat, and destitute of trees or buildings to direct the navigator, who, at a distance only of two leagues, with clear weather, can but just distinguish the entrance to the port in 32° 4′, where the ebbing and flowing of the water generally produce an agitated sea, rendering the shoals variable, so that no ship can or should enter the port without a well experienced person, acquainted with the state of the bar.

The lake of Patos, which took its name from a nation of Indians now unknown, is the largest in the Brazil, being one hundred and fifty miles in length from north-east to south-west, parallel with the coast, and thirty-five at its greatest width, with sufficient depth for vessels of a middling size; it has, however, some very dangerous shoals. The water is salt in the southern part, with the banks generally flat. It is the recipient of almost all the currents which water the northern and eastern portion of the province, and whose principal embouchures are the Jacuhy on the north, and the river de St. Gonçalo on the south. The lake Mirim, which signifies “small,” compared with the other, is ninety miles in length, and twenty-five at its greatest width; this also extends along the coast, and discharges into the lake Patos, by a channel, fifty miles long, wide, handsome, and navigable, and constituting the aforesaid river de St. Gonçalo. The river Saboyaty, after having collected many others, flows, in a considerable stream, into the southern extremity of the lake Mirim, and is navigable for many leagues. The small river Chuy disembogues almost in the middle of the same lake; and, further to the north, the river Jaguaron, which has its source near the lake Formoza, (beautiful.) It has a course of about eighty miles, and eighteen of navigation. The river Piratirim which has its origin also near the lake Formoza, empties itself about the middle of the St. Gonçalo, after a course of thirty leagues, affording ten miles of navigation. The river Pellotas, rising in the serra of the Tappes, enters the St. Gonçalo near its mouth, and admits of small vessels for five leagues. Passing the embouchure of the St. Gonçalo, the first river met with on the lake Patos is the Contagem, which is about fourteen leagues in extent. The second is the Correntes. The third is the Canguçu, navigable for some leagues. The fourth runs under the name of St. Lourenço. The fifth denominated Boqueirao, and the least of all, originates, like the others, in the Serra dos Tappes. Above the Boqueirao, in the middle of the lake of Patos, the Camapuan empties itself by five mouths, formed by four islands, the largest of which is half a league in circumference. It flows from the Great Cochilha by a rapid course of nearly one hundred miles, amongst rocks and stones, admitting navigation only for a distance of four leagues, and higher up presenting continued cataracts. By its southern margin fourteen currents are admitted, some of them ten leagues in extent; and fifteen by its northern bank, none exceeding five leagues. The southern ones, commencing from the mouth of the river, are the Pereira, rising in the Serra dos Tappes; the Cardozo; the Evaristo; the Meirelles; the Sapata, which flows from the same serra; the small river Pedras, (Stones,) rising near the situation called Igatimi; the Almeida; the Arroio Grande; the Velhaco, originating in the Grand Cochilha, near the Serro Bay, and running through a bed consisting in parts of rugged and craggy prominences; the Fagundes, which runs for five leagues between rocks, with many falls; the Rodrigues, rolling angrily over precipices, and foaming between rocks and stones; the Arroio da Palma, considerable, serene, well stored with fish, and navigable for small craft; (the quadruped _capibara_ is seen upon its banks in bands of eighty and one hundred;) and the Camapuan Chici, tranquil in its course, receiving, amongst other streams, one called Tigre. The adjacent territory consists of fine campos, fertile in corn.

Passing the mouth of the Camapuan, northward, the Duro is first met with, which runs through a flat open country, without wood, and forms in its course some lakes. Next, the Velhaco, flowing rapidly through woods. Beyond this is the Passo Grande, with like umbrageous borders.

Proceeding up by the Jacuhy to the town of Portalegre, on the left bank is the Araca, rising in the Serra Herval, and the Antonio Alves, which, three leagues above its mouth, receives the Doudarilho, and affords an open navigation to _hyates_, or yachts. At the northern extremity of the lake Patos the river Palmares enters, having its source in the neighbouring plains of the Tramandahy. Three leagues to the west of it runs the Capibara, which is only a current in winter, when the lake of Serra, receiving the waters of various small brooks, discharges them through this outlet: the lake is about eighteen miles long and five wide, and runs parallel with the cordillera. The country which these rivers traverse is a plain of white sand, and in great part marshy, producing, however, some herbage, brushwood, and plantations.

Along the coast, which runs from Cape St. Mary to the little Castilhos, are various lakes approximating to the sea. The lake Manglieira, which is eighty miles long and about four broad, extends between the coast and the lake Mirim, and empties itself, at the northern extremity, by an outlet called Arroio Thahim. The peninsula between the coast and the lake of Patos, from two to six leagues in width, is interspersed with a great number of lakes, generally running into the ocean, or into others. Amongst those extending westward we may remark, in the southern part, the Capibaras, into which a small river empties itself of limpid water, bursting suddenly forth with admirable force, and is the purest in the peninsula, which, nevertheless, is not deficient in good potable waters. On the eastern side of the peninsula is the lake Mostardas, better known by the name of Peixe, nine leagues long, with little width, extending along the margin of the sea to the point where it disembogues through an elbow of land, that opens and closes annually, and by which various species of fish enter; the most numerous are denominated _miragarga_, resembling the cod-fish. With this lake various others communicate, that lie to the north, and are connected by their different mouths. Near the last, that terminates the extent of the Barros Vermelhos, another chain of a similar description commences, at a short distance from the beach, and extends parallel with it for a space of twenty-five leagues.

A short way from Barros Vermelhos, and by the side of the sea, there is a small lake that runs into a larger one, which terminates in the Capoes do Retuvado. It has an outlet into another, that extends from hence a league and a half. Beyond these there are two lakes running parallel; and still further another, near the Capao do Xavier, a distance of two leagues, which discharges itself into the lake Charqueada, the latter terminating in the place of that name, and running by a vein into a smaller one: this empties itself into a lake of equal size, and that is joined to a larger, which terminates in the Capao Dastacoáras. The last discharges itself into the Quintao, which runs into the Cidreira. The Cidreira is divided into three bays or lakes, communicating by necks or outlets, and occupying an extent of four leagues and a half. It has a channel of two miles long to the Ribeiro, terminating near the passage of the Arroio, its outlet to the river Tramandahy. The river Tramandahy is in 30° south latitude, and is nothing more than the channel of discharge to a great number of lakes, spreading themselves over the extensive plains that lie between the beach and the cordillera. Into this river also is discharged the most southern of another chain of lakes, that extend themselves along the same cordillera northward, very near to the river Mombituba, at the mouth of which there is a military detachment, in order to register persons entering or leaving the province. In the space of twelve leagues, which lie between the Tramandahy and the Mombituba, fourteen small rivers of crystalline water are discharged into the sea.

The afore-mentioned peninsula, formed by the lake Patos and the ocean, is level ground, with a small elevation, or albardao, near the middle; it is almost in a direct line on the eastern side, forming various points and bays on the opposite one. Among the first is the Ponta do Mandanha, commencing at the south, where have been found the vestiges of an Indian village and cemetery. Next to this the Ponta Raza; between them the lake das Capibaras discharges itself. In the middle of the bay called Barrancas, which is the best shelter in this lake for all vessels, some small rivers are emptied, one of which is navigated by canoes and other boats. The Ponta of Bujurú is six leagues more to the north. Into the middle of a bay of the same name, runs a fine river, which forms a little island at the bar. The point of Christovam Pereira is six leagues further. In the bay, which is to the southward of it, there are two considerable mountains of shells, which prove how much the Indians were attached to shell-fish. The point and bay of Cacira are more to the north, and the last that are remarkable. The ground is generally of a very sandy soil, but in some parts clay is found below the sand, which shows that the peninsula is not formed by the sand of the sea, but that the ancient soil is covered with it. Between the lakes Mirim and Mangueira, for many leagues, the small river Chuy takes its course, and enters the ocean in front of the southern extremity of the first.

CAPES, PORTS, AND ISLANDS.--St. Mary is the only cape. Monte Video, St. Luzia, and Maldonado are the best ports. The islands of Castilhos, near the point of the same name, and Maldonado, in the entrance of the bay of the same name, are both small. The isle of Lobos, (Wolves,) two miles in circumference, has good water, is almost all rocks and stones, and lies four leagues to the south-east of the preceding one. There are two others to the south-west of Cape St. Mary. The isle das Flores, half a league long, and of little width, is flat, and six miles to the east of Monte Video. The isle of Martim Garcia is to the west-north-west of the bay of Colonia do Sacramento, in front of the mouth of the river St. Francisco. The isle of St. Gabriel, four hundred and fifty fathoms long, its width proportionable, is in front of Colonia; as well as the isle of Antonio Lopes, and the English Island, both small. That of Fornos, two hundred and forty fathoms long, approximates nearer to the beach. The island of Marinheiros, three to four leagues in circuit, flat and covered with trees and brushwood, is near the southern extremity of the lake of Patos, and a little to the north of the town of St. Pedro, whose inhabitants have recourse to it for water and firewood.

MINERALOGY.--Terra-sombra, or umber, calcareous stone, potters’ earth, gold, silver, and sulphureous minerals.

PHYTOLOGY.--Timber is more remarkable here for its fine quality than its abundance. From the parallel of 30° degrees southward, on the banks of the principal rivers only, are to be seen any forests of fine full-grown timber. Out of these latitudes, in this province, trees are rare and of small size. In the southern parts, they burn bones and the excrements of cattle, in consequence of the scarcity of wood. In the northern there are beautiful pine trees.

ZOOLOGY.--Five nations held their dominion in this province. The Patos in the peninsula, and to the north of the lake which has taken their name; the Charruas, around the lake Mirim, and as far as the river Plate; the Minuânos, to the westward of the latter; the Tappes, from the lake Patos to the Uruguay; the Guaycanans, in the cattle plains, where they still reside at times. Of the first there is now no account, and they appear to be extinct, having most probably intermixed with other tribes. The Charrúas have retired into the centre of the country. The Minuânos occupy the lands to the westward of the Tappes from the Ibicui southward. Between the Minuânos and the Charrúas enmity perpetually exists, and frequently wars occur. They both use the lance, the arrow, and the sling, and are expert on horseback. Grapuetan is the name of the country where the Minuânos reside for a considerable part of the year. The Tappes in great numbers formerly lived under the influence of the Christian missions of the Uruguay.

Amongst other species of wild quadrupeds, there are the _anta_, like a little cow without horns, as common in the West Indies, the deer, the ounce, the monkey, the _paca_, like a pig of two months old, the rabbit, _quati_, _cotia_, _tatous_, or armadillo, covered with scales, the _jaraticáca_, or squash, which the Spaniards and Portuguese call _forrilho_, the boar, the fox, with various kinds of dogs, _viz._ the _jaguaratirica_, _guará_, _guaraxain_, and the _jaguane_. The race of the European species of dog have here multiplied excessively, so that they live in the plains, where they subsist with others of the wild kind, without ever entering any village or dwelling. They are called _chimarrōe_ dogs. Immediately on the slaughter of cattle ceasing, and when in want of provisions, they assemble together in large bands, and encircle an ox, which they pursue with unceasing obstinacy until the animal falls with fatigue, and is devoured by them in a few hours. A horseman even runs a risk in the plains, when they are in a state of famine. No province in the Brazil abounds with such prodigious herds of cattle, horses, and mules. Goats are not very numerous. The sheep produce a fine wool.

In the beginning of the last century this province was covered with cattle, in spite of the devastation which the Indian and the ounce had made amongst them. The conquerors, persuaded that such a profusion of cattle never would have an end, commenced by carrying on a destruction amongst them resembling that of the tiger and the wolf in the sheepfold. This havoc was principally directed against the calves, and generally one did not suffice for the dinner of two comrades; probably they both wished to eat the tongue, and to make a greater certainty of it they killed a second calf, rather than divide the first. There were men who killed an animal in the morning in order to breakfast on broiled kidneys; and, not to be incommoded by carrying any part of the meat for dinner, performed the same operation by killing the best they could discover for dinner. There was no banquet without veal only a few days old.

Don Joaquim Vianna, governor of Monte Video, hearing of this destruction of the cattle, and informed of the cause, issued an order, about the year 1650, with a heavy penalty attached to its transgression, that no more calves or cows should be killed, excepting such cows as were barren; and that no bulls or oxen should be slaughtered for their skins, excepting those of five years of age and upwards. In the vice-royalty of the Marquis de Lavradio, some good arrangements were made in the northern part of the province; but all were not under their influence, in consequence of the widely spreading districts, to many of which they did not extend.

Two small portions of the cattle of this province are appropriated, one to the consumption of the country, and the other to the slaughter-house of the metropolis; but the far greatest proportion is manufactured into jirked-beef, which is salted without bones, dried in the sun, and exported to the principal ports in the Brazil; but, from the desultory warfare carried on near the river Plate, it has recently become very scarce, and _bacalhao_, or salt fish, brought by British ships to the ports of Brazil, has become a substitute at many places.

In 1802, there were yet only amongst the subjects of the faithful crown, five hundred and thirty-nine proprietors of land, judicially marked out amongst the breeders of cattle, denominated _fazendeiros_, or farmers, and _lavradores_, or husbandmen, which latter breed only what is necessary for their own service and consumption; they possess generally about two square leagues of land: but those of the first order have eight or ten square leagues, and some even more. The greatest proportion of the cattle are breeding cows. In a plain or field of three leagues are usually bred four or five thousand head, and proportionably more or less, according to the quality of the land, or attention of the breeder. The pasturage is not, however, generally good, the soil being, as before mentioned, of a sandy nature.

For the management of a fazenda of five thousand head of cattle, it is said six men are sufficient, with one hundred horses at least; the whole of which pasture together in troops of twenty, with a tamed mare, from which they do not usually stray. From the sandy nature of the soil, as in many other parts of Brazil, particularly at Pernambuco, no expense is incurred by the owners for shoeing them. In each establishment, or tract of land, there is commonly a small hill, or the most elevated land is selected, as plain and even at the summit as possible, which is known by the name of _rodeio_, (a certain compass of land,) and is capable of receiving the whole flock, when brought together. For this purpose, the shepherds on horseback distribute themselves round about the cattle, and cry out loudly “_Rodeio, rodeio, rodeio_;” at whose voices the cattle march at full trot towards the rodeio, in files, divided into droves or bands of fifty to one hundred, according to the numbers that pasture together. This mode of forming them early into troops is indispensable, in order to put on the mark of the dono or proprietor upon such as have it not, and with more facility to select those that are upwards of four years old for the market, or for _carne-secco_, or jirked beef.

If the stock of cattle exceed the number of heads which the fazenda is capable of sustaining, they of course run short of pasturage, and many spread out into more distant plains, and after a time will no longer obey the rodeio, but fly and disorder the rest of the flock.

In a fazenda of three leagues it is computed that one thousand young cattle, male and female, are branded or marked, annually; consequently the number they send off or kill may be estimated in the same ratio.

The farmers also breed a certain number of domestic cattle. He who possesses four thousand cattle, which are denominated _bravo_, or wild, keeps commonly one hundred milch cows, which, however, pasture in the same fields or plains with the others. When a cow calves, she always selects a situation adapted to the concealment of her young, where it continues in secrecy for the space of eight days. She visits it at different times in the course of the day, in order to give it suck, lying by it at night. It is difficult to find them during this period; but once discovered the calf is immediately conducted to the cattle fold, where it is kept eight or nine months or more, being daily visited by its dam, which is milked the whole of this time, for the purpose of making butter and cheese, leaving to the prisoner only what it can draw from its mother after she has been milked. The familiarity of the young one with the persons upon the fazenda preserves it in a state of tameness. The males, when sufficiently grown, are used in the cart or plough, and the females pasture in the plains till they become mothers, continuing to supply the farmer with an increasing stock.