Part 21

In the vicinity of the last isle, is the island of Grande, or Large Island, not being much less in extent than seventy miles, and of considerable width; it terminates four miles above the Seven Falls. A little more than seven miles above the southern point of this island, the river Iguatimy enters the Paranna on the western margin, in latitude 24° 40′; and in a little higher latitude the Piquiry. Ten miles to the south of the first, it receives, by the right bank, the small river Iguarei, nearest to the Seven Falls.

At the extremity of the Great Island, the current of the Paranna is much accelerated, and augments proportionably as its margins approximate; and from near four miles of width, which it retains in front of the Iguarei, it diminishes to fifty fathoms, its immense volume of waters being then divided into seven channels, formed by six small islands of rock, traversing the serra of Maracaju, with a current of indescribable fury and awful noise.

Besides the islands already mentioned in this river, there are a vast number of others, of a smaller size, in the great space that intervenes between the Setequedas and the fall of Urubu Punga. Its waters are turbulent, and ill adapted for drinking. The western margin is flat, in part consisting of a large white sand, with a variety of precious stones, for the space of many leagues without interruption. The eastern bank is generally a little elevated; and both exhibit continued and extensive woods. Without any considerable windings, it runs between the south and south-west, with a current generally slow and majestic; but, when strong winds prevail, the waves are as tumultuous as those of the ocean. It abounds with various kinds of fish, some of which are excellent.

Forty miles below the Seven Falls, the river Jaguare enters the Paranna by the left margin; and sixty miles further the considerable Iguassu. At a considerable distance further, its direction is changed towards the west, and enters the Paraguay in the latitude of 27° 20′. From the mission of Corpus upwards, aboriginal nations alone possess the vast territory watered by this majestic river and its confluents.

The river Iguassu, which in the Brazilian language signifies “great water,” has its principal source in the small river St. Joze, and when it traverses the royal road of Lages to Sorocaba, is already considerable, and runs under the name of Curytiba. Its course is always towards the west, having few windings, forming many falls, which interrupt navigation; sensibly enlarging by those streams which unite themselves with it on one or the other margin, principally the southern, and limiting on the south the vast plains of Guarapuaba, inhabited by Indians. The borders are extensively wooded. The first large fall, denominated Cayacanga, is about fifteen miles below the above-mentioned road, and the largest ten miles above its embouchure, where it is one hundred and thirteen fathoms in width. This latter cataract is two hundred feet in perpendicular height; the margins of the river at this place are rocky, and the current furious. A _certanista_, (a commandant of a troop proceeding into the certam or interior,) who descended by this river, says, that it is navigable, without embarrassment, from Cayacanga to the fall of Victoria; but he does not declare the extent of this interval, nor the names and situations of seven large falls, which he encountered to the confluence of this river with the Paranna. At the angle of its confluence, for some years existed the aldeia of St. Maria de lguassu, which disappeared in consequence of a famine.

What may be deemed the most remarkable object in this river, besides the large fall alluded to, is that part of its course known by the appellation of the Funil, in the centre of the country, where it runs rapidly, contracted between high and pointed rocks, in the form of a street of medium width. In its vicinity dwell a horde of Puri and of Guayanha Indians. The principal confluents of the lguassu, which unite themselves with it on the left, are the Negro, Varge, Bannanal, and St. Antonio, which joins it seventy miles above the last fall. Fifty miles above the river St. Antonio, the Jordao discharges itself, and about the same distance above the latter, the St. Joao, both by the right margin.

The river Parannapanema has its origin in the cordillera of the sea, to the west of the river Itanhaen. Its first considerable tributaries are the Itapitininga, which joins it on the right, and the Apiahy on the left, with the waters of which it becomes considerable and wide. Its margins are generally flat, and covered with large trees; in some parts plains or campinhas are seen, where are encountered, amongst other wild creatures, the emu ostrich and deer. The current is principally quick, in consequence of numerous falls. Malevolent Indians occupy the adjacent lands. Near the southern margin, in the vicinity of the mouth of the Tibagy, some years ago was found the remains of a dwelling, which renders it probable that the ancient Spaniards of the province of Guayra extended their establishments to this river.

Thirty miles above the embouchure of the Parannapanema, it is joined on the southern bank by the small river Pirapo, near the mouth of which, for many years, existed the _redução_ or mission of the Lady of Loreto, one of thirteen which formed the reputed provinces of Taiaoba and Taiaty, so inaptly described by the Jesuit Montoya, one of their founders, and which affords room to suspect that they existed in the vast territory which extends itself from the said Parannapanema northwards.

The river Tiete, formerly Anhemby, a name given to it by an Indian tribe, has its source seventy miles to the east of the city of St. Paulo, not far from which it passes; about four miles below it receives, on the left margin, the Pinheiros, which flows from the south-east with twenty miles of course. After forty-five miles more it receives, on the right, the Jundiahy, which flows by the town of its name. Near this confluence, the Tiete forms a large cataract, which impedes the further advance of fish; and fifty miles further the Capibary joins it, after having traversed an extensive wood of majestic trees.

Eight miles lower the Sorocaba discharges on the left margin. Originating in the serra of Cubatam, to the west of St. Vincente, it runs by the town of the same name.

Fifty miles beyond the preceding river, the Pirassicaba, which is considerable, enters it on the right, and is formed by the Tybaia and Jaguary, the heads of which are situated to the north-east of St. Paulo, and traverse a vast wood of immense trees, from the trunks of which, as well as those that grow upon the borders of the aforesaid Capibary, are constructed canoes of eighty palms in length, nearly eight in width, and five in height, which serve to navigate to Cuiaba, and carry four hundred arrobas of cargo, besides the necessary maintenance for eight men, and occasionally passengers.

A little below this confluence, where the volume of water is almost doubled, the Lancoes joins it on the left; and, after four or five days of voyage, the embouchure of the Jacare-Papira is met with on the right; and, somewhat lower, that of the Pipira, on the same side, almost as voluminous as the one which receives it. This river is formed by the waters of the Mugy, which originates in the skirt of the Mantiqueira and of the Jaguary-Mirim, which issues from Minas Geraes, both crossing the road from St. Paulo to Goyaz, thirty miles distant one from the other. They flow westward for a considerable space, uniting in the centre of a large wood, through which they continue in one important current, gathering various streams, that render it so considerable at the confluence mentioned.

A few leagues below the passage to Goyaz there is a fall in the Mugy, which arrests the further progress of fish, and, in consequence, at a certain period annually a numerous band of fishermen assemble here, with _cargas_ (horse loads) of salt, which enables them to furnish the more distant places, from the abundant draughts with which they are here supplied.

Navigators compute two hundred and fifty miles from Port Feliz to the mouth of the Pipira, and as many more from this point to the confluence of the Tiete with the Paranna.

The imperfect methods of overcoming the natural difficulties which are presented, require twenty-six days to accomplish this voyage of five hundred miles. Its course is very winding; twenty-five miles are reckoned in a direct line from Port Feliz to the mouth of the Capibary, and nearly sixty by the river.

It is fifty miles from the mouth of the Jocoaquatu to that of the Pirassicaba, and only twenty in a straight line. The bed is principally stony, with a great number of islands and falls, the most important of those precipitations are denominated Avare-Manduava, Itaguassava, Pirapora, Bauru, Barery-Mirim, Barery-Guassu, Escaramuca, Utupanema, Funil-Grande, (the Large Funnel,) Guacurytuvussu, Aracanga-Mirim, Aracangavussu, Utupeva, and Utupiru. The labour requisite to pass these falls with canoes is very great. There are above sixty other places attended with difficulty, and half that number with considerable danger, but which, notwithstanding, are passed without unloading the canoes. The banks of this river are almost universally covered with superb timber. Amongst other fruit trees are the _jabuticaba_, quince, _cipota_, _jatahi_, _nhandipapo_, and _uvacupari_. From the bark of some trees the aborigines and the certanistas construct canoes for the purposes of navigation; and the resin extracted from them the Indians use for lights, and for ornaments for their ears and lips. Among other species of fish it affords the _doirados_, _saupes_, _pacus_, _piracanjuvas_, _surubins_, _piracambucus_, _jahus_, and _piraquaxiaras_, some of which weigh two arrobas, or sixty-four pounds.

It would be of incalculable advantage to the internal provinces of Brazil if the government would adopt some effectual mode of diminishing the numerous natural difficulties the Tiete presents to navigation. The voyage is also prolonged in consequence of the fogs, which almost every morning deter the canoes from departure till eight o’clock, when these mists usually disappear.

The river Tibagy, which originates to the west of Cannanea, runs to the north-west, traversing the campos of Guarapuaba, where it becomes considerable from many other streams which join it, principally on the right margin; among them are the Pitanguy, Yapo, Jaguaryhiba or Jocuriahy, and the Jaguaryquatu. The Cairussu is the largest among the few which it receives on the left, and passes near the serra Doirada. It is navigable near to its heads, and enters the Parannapanema about the middle of its course.

Between the Jaguariquatu and the aforesaid Apiahy travellers from Villa do Principe to Sorocaba pass, among other smaller streams, the Terere, Verde, and Taquary, which run universally towards the west, and increase the Tibagy, or the Parannapanema. The first and southern, when it crosses the road, is hidden by a high point of rock, formed by nature, and deemed one of the wonders of the province.

The Piquiry, having its heads in the centre of the campos of Guarapuaba, towards which it affords navigation for a very considerable space, runs westward into the Paranna ten miles above the Seven Falls. In the northern angle of its mouth, in an agreeable site, was situated Ciudad Real, otherwise Guayra, demolished by the Paulistas in 1631. The detachment of Fort Iguatimim attempted to rebuild it in 1773; but the undertaking was abandoned, in consequence of every individual employed having perished in a few days by a pestilential fever, which prevails here in January, February, and March.

The Ivahy, originally Ubahy, which rises also in the campos of Guarapuaba and near to the Tibagy, from whence some certanistas transport their canoes to it, is considerable, navigable nearly to its origin, and so well stored with fish, that it has also acquired the name of Rio do Peixe, (the River of Fish.) It runs between the west and north-west, traversing an extensive territory, peopled with savage Indians, and enters the Paranna.

The river Tinto, Bom, Soberbo, Capibary, and Thua are its principal branches. The first is the northern and the last is the southern. The ruins of Villa Rica, denominated Bannanal, are situated eight days’ voyage above its mouth, and was dismantled by the Paulistas upon the same occasion on which they demolished Ciudad Real. A road connected these two places, of which at the present day there is scarcely any trace.

The Pardo issues from the comarca of St. Joao d’El Rey, where it washes the arraial of its name; and after flowing through an extensive tract westward, and collecting, amongst others, the river Araquara, falls into the Rio Grande, much below the confluence of the Sapucahy, a considerable river, which travellers to Goyaz fall in with after they enter that province from St. Paulo.

The river Parahiba, after describing a vast winding, and irrigating many povoacaos of this province, returns towards that of Rio de Janeiro, where it has its origin and termination.

We will now describe the rivers which flow towards the ocean, and the principal ports. These are Santos, Cannanea, and Paranagua.

Eighteen miles to the north of the river Sahy Grande, a limit of the province, is the mouth of the considerable and rapid Guaratuba, formed by others that descend from the General Cordillera. This name is derived from the beautiful guara bird, which abounds upon its margins, and breeds upon a flat island, covered with mangroves, situated about seven miles from the sea, where, by a decree, no one has been allowed to kill them, otherwise these handsome birds would have long since been extirpated. Launches proceed up to the town of the same name. Its largest tributary is the river St. Joao, which, flowing a considerable distance through the pine woods, unites itself with the Guaratuba on the southern margin.

Twenty miles to the northward are the three entrances to the bay of Paranagua, formed by two islands. Ibupetuba, (or False Bar,) is the name of the southern, and Superagui that of the northern. The central and largest is five hundred fathoms in width. Mel is the name of the southern island, and Pecas the northern. This bay is twenty miles in length from east to west, more than ten at its greatest width, and of very irregular form. The most northern portion is called the bay of Pine-trees, to which the island of Pecas opens two entrances. The island of Cotinga, six miles long from east to west, and of small width, is the largest within this bay, where sumacas alone enter, and where a great number of rivulets and rivers are discharged. The most considerable is the Cubatam, which flows into it at the western extremity. The Guaraquissava is the largest that enters it on the northern side, where it also receives the Serra Negra, the Cachoeira, and the Nhundyaquara. The Gurgussu and the Almeydas are the largest which run into this receptacle on its southern side.

Twenty-five miles further, the river Ararapira disembogues, scarcely supplying depth for canoes.

Twelve miles to the north-east, which is the direction of the coast, is the bar of Cannanea. Near its northern point there is a small elevated island of the same name. In front of it, on the southern side, there is another island called Figueira, which is round; and further outward is that of Castilhos, small and of moderate elevation.

Forty miles in the same direction of north-east, is the bar of Icapara, the northern mouth of an inlet of the sea, forming an island