Part 8

This city is divided into seven parishes; that of St. Sebastian, or the royal chapel, dedicated to the use of the royal family, with a curate chosen from the canons, that of Se, at present with a chapel and also a canonical curate, St. Joze, St. Ritta, St. Anna, St. Francisco Xavier, and Our Lady of Candellaria, the parish church of which, yet incomplete, presents a very handsome frontispiece, and is also the only parochial church in the kingdom, where chaplains, at this time fifteen in number, officiate daily, in form of a collegiate church. There is a house of misericordia, with a hospital for the sick, and an establishment for the reception of orphans, the legitimate offspring of white parents, which place they leave on being married, and receive a certain dowry. There are eleven chaplains for the purpose of praying at canonical hours in the choir of the church. There is a convent of Benedictines and another of Franciscans. The ci-devant convent of the slippered Carmelites now forms a part of the palace, and their church is the royal chapel. The bishop is the chaplain-mor. The chapter is composed at present of twenty-eight canons, of whom eight use the vestments and adopt the usages of the monsenhores of the patriarchal at Lisbon; the others received, by law, the title of Senhoria, in December, 1808; they dress in cloaks, and the whole wear red stockings. There is an alms’ house of Terra-Santa, to entertain the travelling brotherhood. The two seminaries of St. Joze and St. Joaquim are ill attended and as ill conducted. In the latter Dr. Gardner, an English gentleman, lectures on chymistry, but he has few pupils. He receives a stipulated salary, and is appointed by the crown. Also a third order (Terceiras) of St. Francisco d’Assis, of Our Lady of Carmo, with a beautiful chapel, and of St. Francisco de Paula, each with its hospital, either complete or begun, for the poor brothers. The Jesuitical college is converted into a royal military hospital, with schools of surgery; and, agreeably to the tenure of the respective statutes upon this subject, five years are required for the formation of competent surgeons. Amongst other chapels to be remarked, is that of St. Peter, of a circular form, with an arched roof, where ten chaplains perform divine service, and none are admitted into orders, unless they can demonstrate that they are of the brotherhood of St. Peter: St. Cruz, which has an elegant frontispiece; there the military hold their religious festivals: Hospicio, with an arched roof and a cupola: and Our Lady of Gloria, situated upon an elevated point or headland, in great part surrounded with the sea, which forms a very handsome and conspicuous object when viewed from the bay. The hill upon which it stands runs along in uneven elevations as far as Pria Flemingo, where it terminates in an abrupt precipice of granite rock. The front of this hill, facing the bay, nearly in a state of wild nature, was some time ago purchased by Mr. Maiden, an English gentleman, upon the side of which he has erected a very excellent mansion for his own residence, as well as three or four other neat houses, all occupied by English gentlemen; one at the extremity, near the granite rock, is in the possession of the Rev. Mr. Crane. The Gloria Hill is decidedly the most agreeable situation for a residence in the vicinity of Rio: it is elevated, and commands an interesting view of the harbour and all vessels as they enter and leave the port; at the same time enjoying all the advantages of the land and sea breezes. Its only inconvenience is the approach to it, by a steep ascent on the side of the Gloria Chapel.

[Illustration: CONVENT OF ST ANTONIO, RIO JANEIRO]

[Illustration: THE CONVENT OF ST THERESA, PART OF THE AQUEDUCT, & A SEGE OR CABRIOLET.]

There are two female convents at Rio de Janeiro. The in-dwellers of one adhere rigidly to their system of strict seclusion from all intercourse with the world: they are Therezian nuns, and the convent is agreeably situated upon an eminence, near the double row of arches in which the aqueduct terminates. The others are Franciscan nuns, and an apartment in their convent of Ajuda is appropriated for the admission of their friends, to converse with them through an iron grating. This convent possesses an antiquated organ, coeval with the establishment, and the hand of man had not been allowed, for many a year, to harmonize the discordancy occasioned by the deteriorating lapse of time. An English professor of music was engaged, under considerable penalties to keep the peace, and presented with a _carte-blanche_ to visit the convent, for the purpose of thoroughly renovating this instrument, which, on accomplishing, he declared was as fine a toned organ as he had ever heard. I was permitted to accompany this gentleman, upon one occasion, under the garb of a servant. We approached a door in the corner of a small inner square, which the outer entrance leads to. A respectful knock produced the opening of a small shutter within the door, when the fine face and black eyes of the watchful porteress were presented at the iron grating. After a parley of a few minutes, during which, at intervals, she examined me with rather a scrutinizing eye, the bolts were withdrawn, and, on entering, we found ourselves at the foot of a flight of spacious stairs, which she ascended with us. At the top we were joined by two other nuns, apparently about the age of forty, who conducted us along a passage or avenue; one of them continuing to sound a bell the whole way, with a view of announcing to the sisterhood that man was within the precincts of the building, whose sight they were thus cautioned to avoid. Our three companions were extremely affable, and conversed with much animation. We arrived, after passing through a considerable part of the building, at the apartment where the organ stood, which was also a place of devotion, and ornamented with the figures of various saints. Creolean slaves soon came, to assist in the operations upon the organ, in which I was an equally awkward performer. Those slaves, unnaturally destined also to be here immured for life, were young and some of them very handsome. At intervals many other nuns came to the door and looked in by stealth. Some gradually overcame their shyness, entered the room, offered up their devotions, repeated their “Avi Marias,” and, by degrees, approached the organ, with which our attention _appeared_ to be absorbed. Nature so triumphed over superstitious habits that many of them became very familiar and lively. One of them sung part of an English song, which my companion had translated into Portuguese, he playing upon the organ as an accompaniment; the others appeared quite delighted, and shouted out “_Viva, viva_.” Upon some of them perseveringly urging me for an air, I gave them a verse of “God save the King,” which, on others coming into the room, I was obliged to repeat. The governesses joined in these occasional bursts of vivacity, and at other times took their stations in different parts of the room, apparently in the posture of devotion, and so situated that they could observe all that was passing. Upon all occasions of their coming in or leaving the room they bent the knee to the figure of Jesus. One of them directed my attention to the beautiful quality of the silk which constituted the vestments on the figure of St. John, and observed, several times, that he appeared _muito triste_ (very sad) that morning. I did not think proper to dissent from this romantic discovery; but I was a little astonished to find that she carried her superstition so far as to imagine that an inanimate figure could actually change its aspect, and, consequently, that it was endowed with vital feeling and thought. She next showed me a _menino Jesu_, (child Jesus,) richly dressed, with a silken band around the waist, from which was suspended an embroidered bag, containing, she said, a piece of the real bone of our Saviour. I ventured here not wholly to conceal my doubts; but she assured me it was so, and that the Queen, whose remains were deposited in the garden of the convent, brought it from Lisbon, and presented it to them: this was conclusive. No doubt they regarded us as pitiable heretics, one of them taking great pains to teach me _Padre Nosso_, _Avi Maria_, _Santa Maria_, all which I was instructed to write in my book, and then compelled to repeat several times to the rest, who seemed very much pleased at my promising symptoms of Catholicism. A very fine girl, about ten years of age, had just entered the convent. I expressed my surprise and regret, to one of the governesses, that so young a child should be shut up here for life; she replied, that it was infinitely better than being exposed to the wickedness of the world. They are involved in great ignorance, but apparently not only comfortable, but happy, and great cleanliness pervaded that part of the convent that we saw. We returned by the same avenues; and the bell, which had been intrusted to my novel management, sending forth rather unusual sounds, induced some of the more secluded sisterhood to peep, with some surprise, out of their cells; and, as I was found not to be intuitively a bellman to their wishes, I was as quickly deprived of my new situation.

[Illustration:

_On Stone by C. Shoosmith from a Sketch by Jas. Henderson._ _Printed by C. Hullmandel._

THE CONVENT OF AJUDA.]

An aqueduct, for furnishing water to the Cidade Nova, is nearly completed; in which quarter some new fountains are to be observed, especially the Lagarto, and another in the Campo St. Anna, large, built of stone, and discharging the water by numerous spouts.

The fountains in the eastern district of the city consist of one in the Palace Square, in the shape of a tower, the _Marrecas_; one in the Moura Place; and the _Carioca_, with twelve spouts; all of which are supplied by the aqueduct already mentioned.

A visit to its source I found to be a most interesting excursion. I was accompanied to it by two friends. We directed our course to the village of Matta Cavallos, passing underneath the double arcade, the superior one having forty-two arches, and which conducts the water from the Therezian hill across a valley close to the city. We called upon Mr. Langsdorffe, the Russian consul, and proceeded from his house up a gradual ascent, covered with almost impervious woods, and, after crossing a deep glen, gained the terrace, which is formed by excavation along the sides of mountains and precipices for nearly four miles. As far as two white pillars, opening into the Orange Valley, a distance of about three miles, the terrace has been recently repaired, and forms of itself a very fine promenade. Upon its inner side the range of aqueduct is erected, which is nearly eight feet high, consisting of two walls, a yard from each other, which space is arched over, and encloses the small stream of water that flows rapidly along a channel hewn out of stone. As far as the pillars it has been recently enlivened by white-washing, and at certain distances small apertures are left, for the purpose of ventilation. In some places, small iron gates are introduced into the wall, to admit of the occasional entrance of persons within it; those gates are locked, and an opening is left at the bottom large enough to receive the arm. There is likewise a bason, cut out of the stone, to supply the passers-by with water, which has rather a peculiar flavour.

The eye is delighted with the succession of beautiful scenery which the walk presents, and rambles in undiminished rapture at every point, over the varied and romantic objects which sportive nature has here produced. Precipices above, and accumulated alpines shut in the view to the south and west. Winding glens below, formed by smaller elevations; here and there houses seen almost embosomed in the woody ravines; the valley of Engenho Velho, sprinkled with white houses, which is also the site of the palace of St. Christovao; the city and bay, surrounded with their amphitheatres of mountains; the high soaring masses near the pass to the Tejuca; the towering piles of the Organ range, and others of varied appearance to the right, edging the distant horizon, together form a grand totality, a most animated and animating picture, extending far to the north and east, harmonizing the feelings, and lifting the mind into a profound and pleasing train of wonder and adoration of the all-powerful being who has ordained these noble diversities of nature, over which his creative hand has thrown the graceful and cheerful covering of verdant trees and shrubs, swarming in wild profusion, the hand of man having in few places contributed its aid.

“Hail, Source of beings! Universal Soul Of Heav’n and Earth! Essential Presence, hail! To Thee I bend the knee: to Thee my thoughts Continual climb, who with a master hand Hast the great whole into perfection touch’d.”

This charming picture is lost to view on passing the opening betwixt the pillars, where the prospect, although more confined, is admirable, consisting of the deep recesses of the Orange Valley, the more lofty features of the mountains which encompass it, and the singularly formed Corcovada at its head, all rising into indescribable magnificence. These are scenes that would have delighted and invigorated with new energy the most exalted poets and painters. From hence, a narrower terrace, covered with entwining brushwood, and skirting along the side of the mountains for about a mile, brought us to the head of the valley, where the origin of the aqueduct is marked, by an inscription, to have taken place in the year 1744. Its source is adorned with a fine cascade, at the foot of which, a declining platform of rocks, overshadowed with trees, and refreshed with the falling water, afforded us a delightful retreat from the rays of the sun; and here in reality we enjoyed the refreshment a slave had brought for us: above us the rugged mountains in precipices and the stony bed of the rivulet were seen, overhung with high trees and shrubs as far as the eye could reach. In this place, and from these waters, a poetical mind must, indeed, imbibe those draughts of inspiration which the vale of Tempe, and the mountain and stream of Parnassus are fabled to have produced. A long and intricate path leads from hence to the summit of the Corcovada Mountain; below us there was an abrupt and rocky steep, its sides covered with thickly growing brushwood, down which the water descended in a murmuring course to the valley; the whole of its varieties of verdure and fertility, with the bay of Bota-fogo at its lower extremity, was within our view. A winding road led us to a point, where we descended by a difficult way into the valley, while its fine oranges, growing spontaneously, supplied us with a dessert. It is beautified with some elegant houses, of one of which, at the bottom, almost opposite to the Queen’s cottage, the accompanying sketch is a specimen. Our way from hence continued by the Cateta and the Gloria to Rio.

[Illustration: PILLARS NEAR THE SOURCE OF THE AQUEDUCT]

[Illustration:

_On Stone by C. Shoosmith from a Sketch by Jas. Henderson._ _Printed by C. Hullmandel._

HOUSE AT THE BOTTOM OF THE ORANGE VALLEY.]

The open spaces of the city, denominated squares, consist of the Palace Square, one hundred and fifty yards long, and eighty wide, with two good landing stairs from the bay; of the Roceo, one hundred and eighty yards long, and one hundred wide; and the Capim, recently called Peloirinho. In the Cidado Nova, there is one which occupies the intermediate space of the crossing of four streets; but, although these are open spaces, they have little regularity or semblance to any thing that produces the idea of a square. The Royal Palace which has more the appearance of a manufactory than the residence of a king, is composed of that formerly occupied by the viceroys, the convent of the Carmelites, and the senate-house, united by passages, the first forming the southern side of the square, and the latter the western. The northern side consists of a row of houses, which are private property, with two stories the same as the others. The first portion has twenty-four windows on the side, and nine in front towards the bay, the lower part of which is occupied by the guards and some public offices, the rooms above are generally used by the King for public levees. Some of the merchants and groups of the male inhabitants frequent every evening that part of the square, and the walls adjoining the landing places and bordering the bay afford convenient seats, which are fully occupied. Here the arrival of vessels is ascertained, and the sea-breeze enjoyed.

The mint, the armory, the naval arsenal, and that of the military, (called _trem_,) and the custom house, are the principal public buildings; but of themselves present nothing particularly worthy of remark. There are various public trapiches, or warehouses for the deposit of produce. The public gardens, which are stated by some travellers to have been fully and gaily attended some twelve or fourteen years ago, are now quite unfrequented, and sunk into neglect. This place of resort in former times consists of about two acres of ground, bordering upon the bay, enclosed with a high wall, and neatly laid out in walks of trees, overhung with a variety of evergreen foliage. There is a stone terrace at the end, ascended by two flights of steps, commanding a view of the bay, with the remains of two pavilions, and other mutilated objects. This place is not left without regret, that so cool and agreeable a situation, and so well calculated for a public promenade, is permitted to fall into decay. For the administration of justice the same tribunals exist here as at Lisbon. At the period of the suppression of the board of inspection, in 1808, was created the tribunal of the royal junta of commerce, agriculture, manufactures, and navigation, composed of ten deputies, a president, a secretary, and an official maior, (officiating mayor.) The Jesuitical library is open to the public; it contains about sixty thousand volumes, amongst which there are but few modern works, and a great many old ones on theology. I was in the habit of frequenting it, and as is the custom at the national library in Paris, the librarian attends, immediately brings any book that may be required, and places it upon a small reading desk on the table, with which each person is accommodated. The very small number who attended consisted generally of priests and friars. Manufactories have yet acquired no footing in this city; there is however, one of sail-cloth, and another of silk stockings; also, a few miles distant, at Andrahi, there are works for printing cottons upon a small scale, and conducted by a person who has been in England. Coarse cottons are manufactured in the interior of Brazil, and they pass the shuttle with the hand, according to the mode used in England formerly.

The only place of amusement in Rio is the theatre, erected within the last few years, and which, in point of external appearance, is beyond mediocrity. It contains four tiers of boxes on each side of the house, thirteen in each tier, making, in the whole, one hundred and four boxes, which are extremely gloomy, being shut in at the sides. The royal box occupies the whole of the space fronting the stage, above which there is a small gallery; and the pit contains about four hundred persons. The orchestra is esteemed very tolerable; but the performances are indifferent. Two French dancers and their wives are at present the magnets of attraction; and there is great emulation between them for the palm of superiority. The Campo St. Anna contains a large building, erected for the purpose of bull-baiting; but the Brazilian bull not possessing the fire and fury of this animal in Europe, was the reason of its falling into disuse, and creditable would it be if so irrational and cruel an amusement was discontinued. Within the last two years, this building was the scene of the various feats in horsemanship of Mr. Southby and his troop, for which it is well adapted. The clown, soon acquiring some of the local peculiarities of the people, produced amongst them a fund of merriment they had been little accustomed to; and they expressed themselves more highly astonished and pleased with those performances, and the wonderful display of agility by Mrs. Southby on the tight rope, than any thing they had ever before witnessed.

The city of Rio de Janeiro was taken by the French, in the year 1711, under M. Duguay Truin, and afterwards recovered by the people. In the preceding year, M. du Clerc had entered the town, conducted by two fugitive negroes, from Ilha Grande.