Part 7

PHYTOLOGY.--This province affords a variety of timber for the purposes of building, cabinet-work, and dying. The tree called here _anduassu_ is nearly fifteen feet high, and two in diameter, grows rapidly, and only in the vicinity of the sea. The Indians make an aperient medicine from its fruit, with which they cure the dropsy. Oil is extracted from it for burning lights, and for the composition of blue ink, and a blue dye. The _tatagyba_, which is the _morus tinctoria_ of Linneus, affords an excellent yellow dye, extracted by the boiling of its wood in water, with the addition of a portion of alum. The _grumixameira_ is a tree which produces a most excellent fruit, similar to a cherry in appearance, but of a finer flavour. I brought some of its seed to England, but am yet uncertain whether it will prosper in our climate. A small tree produces a clove, said to be superior to that of the Moluccas. The camphor tree, the cane of Madagascar, some African grasses, and a delicate species from Hindostan, have been recently naturalized here. Canes of such thickness and height grow upon the margins of the Suruhy, that ladders are made of them to hang the highest temples with decorations for festivals. In many situations ferns are met with, not differing in the least from those of Europe, except in the immense quantities which grow in uncultivated grounds. In the woods adjacent to Andrahi, near the road leading to the cascades of Tejuco, there is one which has grown, amongst other vegetation of wild trees and brushwood, to the perpendicular height of eighteen feet. In some woods, a sort of almond tree is met with, with fruit almost spherical, and of the magnitude of a hen’s egg. Cocoa trees are not very abundant, owing to an insect which gnaws the sprout after it grows to any size, and prevents their arrival at the perfection they otherwise would. European horticulture succeeds better here than in the northern provinces. The mango tree is only abundant in the suburbs of the capital, and rarely fructifies to perfection. Oranges grow spontaneously, and consist of various sorts; the selectas, which are large, and the tangerinas, both of the most delicious qualities. The coffee tree, having been naturalized here, during the government of Conde de Bobadella, by the attention and care of a magistrate, multiplies prodigiously, and is now one great branch of the riches of this province. The cotton tree does not prosper universally. Apple, pear, cherry, and apricot trees do not succeed. Fig trees grow rapidly, and produce fruit in perfection; but they have an enemy in a little insect, which introduces itself very frequently into the pith, and dries it up. Amongst an infinity of other productions may be enumerated jalap, ipecacuanha, called here _poaya_, trees of gum, of _sangue de drago_, (blood of dragon,) of oil of capaiba, and of Peruvian balsam. The cultivation of cochineal is now little attended to.

CITIES AND TOWNS.--The cities and towns in this province are remarkable for their small number and general insignificance, considering its extent and capabilities. The same observation is applicable to all the other provinces, and to some infinitely more so. In this province may be reckoned two cities and twelve towns, having no good roads or regular communication with each other by land, but mere tracks and bridle-ways constituting an intricate and difficult medium of intercourse. But we hail, with no common satisfaction, the improvements that will necessarily succeed to the change that has taken place in the system of government in the mother-country, and which has already begun to operate a like change in the provinces of Brazil.

The deplorable want of roads, and all the other facilities of husbandry, commerce, and enjoyment, is the natural consequence of the state of penury and ignorance in which the inhabitants, generally, of this region are involved, by a system that cannot too soon give way to the more enlightened policy which appears to be dawning upon them. This good work, as far as it has proceeded, redounds highly to the honour of the Portuguese people; no sanguinary event having marked their endeavours in the cause of freedom, thereby affording a most satisfactory contrast to the bloody pages that blacken the revolution of many other nations. May they soon regain their former dignity of character.

The places we alluded to are,

CITIES. DISTRICTS.

Cape Frio. Cape Frio. St. Sebastian (commonly called Rio de Janeiro) Rio de Janeiro.

TOWNS. DISTRICTS.

Marica. Rio de Janeiro. Macacu. Ditto. Mage. Ditto. Villanova. Ditto. Parati. Ilha Grande. Angra. Ditto. Rezende. Parahiba Nova. St. Joao Marcos. Ditto. St. Joao de Maccahe. Cape Frio. St. Salvador. Goytacazes. St. Joao de Parahiba. Ditto. Canta-Gallo. Canta-Gallo.

The district of Ilha Grande is mountainous, wholesome, and fertile. It is bounded on the west by the province of St. Paulo; on the north, by the continuation of the Organ Mountains, which separate it from the district of Parahiba Nova; on the east, by the River Taguahi, the limits of the district of Rio de Janeiro, with the exception of which, none of the others exceed it in the prompt means which it enjoys of exporting its productions, which are farinha, or flour of the mandioca, Indian corn, rice, feijao, (black beans,) coffee, sugar, cacháça, (bad rum,) indigo, some cocoa, and timber. Very few cattle of any kind are bred; but it abounds in poultry.

Parati, with the title of a countship, and famous for its cacháça, (rum,) which is reputed to be the best in the state, was created a town in 1660, and is situated in a level country, on the western side of the bay of Ilha Grande, betwixt the river Patetiba, and that from which it derives its name. Its streets are straight, crossing at right angles, with edifices of stone, and a parochial church of Our Lady of Remedies, the chapels of Lapa, and of Griefs. It has a _Juiz de Fora_, a judicial officer, and royal professors (as they are called) of the primitive letters and Latin. Its commerce is considerable. It is situated about sixty miles west of the metropolis.

Angra dos Reys is a maritime town, in a state of mediocrity, standing among the frontier mountains of Ilha Grande, which name it frequently takes. It is defended by two redoubts, and has a parish-church of Our Lady of Conceiçao; also the chapels of Lapa, and St. Luzia; a convent of Franciscans, and one of slippered Carmelites. The extensive domains of the former have not ceased to increase. Its inhabitants enjoy a salubrious air; and vessels of the largest size can come to anchor in the port. It has a _Juiz de Fora_, who is the same person that fills that situation at Parati, from whence it is distant twenty miles, and also has professors of the same kind. Its commerce is pretty considerable; the fig and vine trees prosper in its vicinity, and it is the most ancient town of the province. In the adjacent countries of Mambucaba, rice commonly renders one hundred for one; feijao, twenty; Indian corn, forty and fifty; a fertility that has induced many families to move to this district, which, since the year 1811, has been formed into a parish, with the church of Our Lady of Rozario, situated near the emboucheur of the river, upon its eastern bank. A few leagues to the north, and in the vicinity of the same margin of the river, is the picturesque mountain of Taypicu, having the form of a sugar-loaf; and at a moderate distance from the origin of the Mambucaba is the celebrated pinnacle denominated the Friar, from its similitude to a Franciscan with the cawl upon his head.

The district of Parahiba Nova is confined on the south by that of Ilha Grande; on the west, by the province of St. Paulo; on the north, by that of Minas Geraes, from which it is separated by the serra of Mantiqueira. Its territory is generally mountainous, abounding with woods and water. Its produce is rice, Indian corn, feijao, and tobacco; but coffee and sugar are the principal riches of the district. It is alleged, that the frosts, that are consequent on the high elevation of the country, are an obstacle to the culture of cotton and wheat, which flourish only in few situations. It has been demonstrated, that the soil of this district is well adapted for flax; but, as the cultivation of it does not require less labour than in Europe, the apathy of the inhabitants, in a great measure induced by the causes just now glanced at, is the only obstacle to its general production. The orange, pine-apple, bananas, and some other Brazilian fruits, are not abundant. Cattle and horses are bred in very small numbers; pigs and poultry are plentiful. The river Parahiba traverses this district, to which it gives the name, describing innumerable windings, and collecting a great many streams, amongst which may be noted the Barramansa, Bannanal, and Barreiros. The Pirahi is navigable for seven leagues to the church of St. Anna, erected in 1812.

Rezende, created a town during the government of a count of the same name, is situated in an elevated country, upon the right bank of the river Parahiba, which supplies it with fish, and has a parochial church called Our Lady of Conceiçao. Its primitive name was Campoalegre. Coffee and sugar are its exports, and it is distant about sixteen leagues north of Angra.

St. Joao Marcos, erected into a town in 1813, is upon the right bank of the small river Aráras, a western branch of the Lages, and is seven leagues north of Angra, and nineteen west of the capital. Its church is dedicated to the saint from which it takes its name. Its inhabitants cultivate a prodigious quantity of coffee, which is decidedly esteemed the best in the Brazil; also some sugar. It is a halting place for the bands of mules, and travellers coming from the province of St. Paulo to the metropolis; but, like all other towns and places in the Brazil, possesses no inns for the accommodation of the wayfarer, who, if not used to the modes of the country, must cater as well as he can. Proceeding from hence towards St. Paulo, the mountains are of such height, that passes, or ways, are formed only by considerable windings and intricate ascents.

A little above the passage of the Parahibuna, betwixt the Parahiba and the Preto, is the village of Valença, with a hermitage of Our Lady of Glory, (Gloria,) which serves for the devotion of the inhabitants; consisting of four hordes of Christianized Indians, which are the Puris, who are of a small stature; the Araris, whiter and well made; the Pittas, and Xumettos. Some unconverted natives dwell amongst them. Upon the northern bank of the Parahiba, at the passage towards the Parahibuna, is the parish of Our Lady of Conceiçao, (Conception,) inhabited by white people. It is much frequented.

The district of Rio de Janeiro, situated betwixt those of Cape Frio on the east, and Ilha Grande on the south, extends twenty leagues from east to west, and nearly in its centre is the bay of the same name, which receives all the rivers that fertilize this district, with the exception of the Guandu. Its productions do not materially differ from the others, in the conveyance of which to the capital it, however, enjoys greater facility.

ST. SEBASTIAN, better known by the name of Rio de Janeiro, is the most important, populous, and commercial city in the Brazil. It was created a bishopric in the year 1776, and the metropolis of this region, in 1763; from which period, to the arrival of Queen Donna Maria and the royal family, on the 7th of March, 1808, it was governed by seven successive viceroys: these were, the Count da Cunha, the Count d’ Azambuja, the Marquis de Lavrodio, Luiz de Vasconcellas e Souza, the Count de Rezende, Fernando Joze de Portugal, (now the Marquis d’Aguiar,) and Count d’ Arcos, a nobleman highly esteemed by the people under his jurisdiction, which terminated before its natural expiration, in consequence of the events in Portugal that drove the royal family to their Trans-Atlantic possessions. It is affirmed that this fidalgo undeservedly suffered some persecution at this period, in consequence of the intrigues or influence which a certain family, who accompanied the court, had over the Prince Regent, (two of whom have since received titles,) but which influence was counteracted in some measure by the Queen. This fidalgo was afterwards sent as captain-general to Bahia, where he displayed considerable ability at the time the revolution burst forth at Pernambuco, and otherwise advanced the prosperity of the province. The termination of the Pernambucan revolt was attributed to the prompt measures which he adopted. He is now minister of marine in this city. His son received the Hon. Mr. Thornton, our minister at the Brazilian court, on his landing at the Palace-stairs, for whom and his suite three of the royal state carriages were in waiting. It was affirmed, that no minister had ever been received with greater marks of respect. This city is situated in a plain, the major part of which, in former times was washed by the sea, at the base of an accumulation of small hills and mountains of all elevations upon its southern precincts. It extends about two miles in length, from east to west. Its northern side is enclosed by a cordon of five mountains, all oblong, and which leave space only for one street, betwixt their eastern base and the pria (beach.) The central one of these mountains is the highest and most extensive: betwixt some of them, there are streets or roads leading to the margin of the bay. Upon the eastern and lowest elevation is situated the monastery of St. Bento. The adjoining one is crowned with the fort of Conceiçao, and the episcopal palace. On the western one, there is a chapel of St. Diogo, and upon the central one towards the beach, another of Our Lady of Livramento.

In front of the granite rock, upon which St. Bento stands, is the island of Cobras, or Snakes, which is one hundred and sixty-five fathoms long, from east to west, and proportionably wide, not very high, and fortified, having within its precincts a loathsome prison, generally appropriated to the confinement of state prisoners, to which, however, Englishmen have been occasionally sent, for trifling irregularities in regard to passports and other matters of no serious import. There are two trapiches, or warehouses, upon its margin next the channel, which is about one hundred and fifty yards in width. At its northern entrance, merchant vessels lie for the purpose of discharging and taking in their cargoes, which are performed by large barges, at no inconsiderable expense. Almost north-west from the granite rocks of St. Diogo, at a distance of about three quarters of a mile across a point of the bay, and upon a gentle eminence, is situated the hospital of Lazaros, which has a very commanding appearance, and was formerly a house of recreation belonging to the Jesuits, but is now used as a barrack for a regiment of Cassadores, from Portugal, who perform the duty of royal guard at the palace of St. Christovao, about a mile distant from it. Between the rocks of St. Diogo and the lazaretto, a branch of the bay forms a small creek, which separates the Cidade Nova from the village of Matta Porcas. The bridge of St. Diogo, by which they communicate, is constructed of wood. The beach leading from St. Bento to this point, describes several windings and sweeping crescents, formed by projecting headlands, in one of which, upon the side of a gently ascending hill, the English burial-ground presents a conspicuous object. In sailing along the bay, the neat white building that crowns it, the over hanging trees dispersed about, with the already accumulating tombstones, produce a corresponding interest in a feeling mind, on passing the bones of countrymen, resting in a situation so picturesque and sadly tranquil, far removed from their native land. May you rest undisturbed, said I, at the sight, and may those estimable relatives and friends who pay the departed spirits the tribute of affectionate remembrance, journey through life in peace and prosperity.

The houses of Rio de Janeiro are generally built of stone, one story high, with balconies, which formerly were barricadoed with latticed doors and windows, but these were ordered to be removed after the arrival of the royal family. The ground floors, which are not used as shops or stores, still exhibit this miserable and gloomy aspect of closely latticed windows and doors. In the upper part of the latter, wooden latticed windows are introduced, and the whole are most commonly suspended from the top lintel, secured with hinges. The inmates push them outwards, with their hands or heads, for the purpose of obtaining a side view of what is passing in the streets. Numbers of the inhabitants of this city are thus seen resting upon their elbows, the head projecting the lower points of those hanging windows, frequently to the annoyance of persons passing along the very narrow footways.

The streets cross each other at right angles. The Rua Direita, running north and south from the base of the St. Bento Hill to the Palace Square, is the best and widest in the city, and the principal head of others branching off in a westerly direction, which are crossed, at certain distances, by other streets running in a parallel line with the first. Amongst those leading from the Rua Direita, may be enumerated the Rua dos Pescadores, Rua do Sabao, Rua d’Alfandigo, and the Rua d’Ouvidor; which latter is the chief outlet to three or four roads leading from the suburbs of the city, and is, in consequence, tolerably thronged with cabriolets, carriages, mules, and horsemen.

The streets being very narrow, foot passengers experience many inconveniences, and not the least from horsemen, who do not scruple to ride upon the narrow foot-path, which scarcely admits of two people passing, in order to avoid the dirt and holes of the badly paved streets. Another annoyance is the Senhors Picadores, or royal gentlemen mule breakers, the most miserable looking wretches, who assume all the self-will peculiar to their animals, and some of that consequence which the servants of the royal family generally think themselves entitled to. The royal attendants are called, by the Brazilians, the _largura_, that is, the occupiers of all the road, and make no ceremony in upsetting you, or running against the carriage, gig, or horse, of any plebeian they may encounter. Next come the royal cadets, in such a helter-skelter, that it may justly be compared to the suddenness and fury of one of the gusts of wind we experienced in our passage across the Equator. They are the signal of the approach of some part of the royal family; and, as it is the custom for every one they meet to take off their hats, and persons in carriages and on horseback to dismount, it is not a little amusing to see the general bustle that prevails on the occasion of those ceremonial storms, some flying for fear of being ridden over, others drawing up their carriages and horses to a corner or side, and all bending the knee to the royal party. At these times, it is lucky if a person on horseback, caught in such an encounter in a narrow street, gets off without some personal injury.

It may be necessary to observe, that any of the royal family going out are generally attended by a party of cavalry, mounted on small and poor horses, two of which, who are something superior to a common soldier, called cadets, precede the carriage at full gallop, through the streets or along the roads, the rest of the cavalry immediately following it. They are succeeded by other royal cabriolets, with the fidalgos in waiting, the domestic servants proceeding without any order on horseback; amongst whom, he who carries before him, at full gallop, the royal crimson night-stool, is no inexpert horseman.

Some foreigners have resisted the right which the royal cadets assume of compelling them to dismount, and it will be readily conceded, that such a ceremony cannot but be very repugnant to the feelings of Englishmen, Americans, and others, although they have generally complied with it. The Queen, who has the character of being extremely particular and peremptory on this point, a few years since, taking her usual ride to a small cottage and garden, at the bottom of the Orange Valley, met Lord Strangford, who refused to comply with the accustomed ceremony. The cadets instantly insulted his Lordship, by using their swords in compelling him to dismount. The only redress which his Lordship obtained, was the imprisonment of the guards for a short time. About three years ago, Mr. Sumpter, the American minister, met the Queen in the same neighbourhood. The guard rode up to him, saying, “_Apea-se Senr_.” He replied, that he was the American minister, and that he should not dismount, on which they did not hesitate to compel him. Mr. Sumpter said that he did not require any satisfaction for this gross insult, but stated with great spirit, that he should provide himself with holsters and pistols, and would shoot the first person who offered him a similar insult. Very shortly afterwards, he met the Queen’s guard again, who rode up to him, making the same peremptory demand as before. In answer to which, he frankly told them, that the first man who offered him any violence, he would shoot dead upon the spot. This resolute conduct induced them to retire. Upon this, it is said, the Queen ordered them to proceed a second time to dismount Mr. Sumpter; but they were intimidated by his continued firmness. It is generally affirmed that her Majesty was highly incensed at Mr. Sumpter’s conduct, and requested the minister of state to issue an order for his imprisonment in the island of Cobras. The minister prevailed upon her Majesty to wait the result of a despatch to the King upon the subject, who was then forty miles off at St. Cruz, and who gave orders immediately, that no foreigner should be compelled to pay more courtesy than his own Sovereign would require from him. Since that time, however, an English merchant, who was driving his lady in a chaise, was beat by the Queen’s guards, till his arm became quite black, and his life endangered, notwithstanding he had stopped his horse, stood up in the chaise, and took off his hat. In the month of July, 1819, Commodore Bowles was taking a ride near the Orange Valley, when the Queen’s cadets beat him off his horse with their swords. The cadets were sent on board the _Creole_ to apologize for their conduct, and the commodore advised them in future to draw their swords only against an enemy. To the King, who does not require this ridiculous and inconvenient homage, the English generally are desirous of showing their respect by dismounting.

On the northern side of the city is situated an almost oblong square, called the Campo of St. Anna. It is more than a quarter of a mile in length, and about half the width. A church of the same name divides it into two parts. The western part is destined for the Cidade Nova, (or New City,) and increasing in buildings, denoting, however, very little regard to architecture or general comfort in the edifices. Of the eight streets which run into the Campo St. Anna, those of St. Pedro and Sabao are intended to continue under the same names the whole extent of the new city, which is to terminate at the wooden-bridge of St. Diogo already mentioned.