Part 2
I will only add a few words relative to the spelling of native names,—rather a difficult subject in a conflux of languages of very different organization and unsettled orthography. I have constantly endeavoured to express the sounds as correctly as possible, but in the simplest way, assigning to the vowels always the same intonation which they have in Italian, and keeping as closely as possible to the principles adopted by the Asiatic Society. The greatest difficulty related to the “g” sound, which is written in various ways by the Africans, and puzzled even the Arabic writers of the middle ages. While the “k” in North Africa approaches the g in “give,” it takes the sound of it entirely in the Central African languages. On this ground, although I preferred writing “Azkár,” while the name might have been almost as well written “Azgár;” yet further into the interior the application of the g, as in “Ágades,” “Góber,” and so on, was more correct. The ع of the Arabs has been expressed, in conformity with the various sounds which it adopts, by ʿa, ʿo and ʿu; the غ by gh, although it sounds in many words like an r; ج by j; the چ, which is frequent in the African languages, by ch.
The alphabet, therefore, which I have made use of is the following:—
_Vowels._
a as in cat.
á „ father.
ʿa (not English) not unlike a in dart.
e as in pen.
é like the first a in fatal.
i as in it.
í „ ravine.
o „ lot.
ó „ home.
ʿo (not English) not unlike o in noble.
u as in put.
ú „ adjure, true.
ʿu not unlike oo in doom.
y, at the end of words, instead of i.
_Diphthongs._
ai as i in tide (ay at the end of words).
oi (oy), as in noise.
au (aw), as ow in now.
_Consonants._
b as in beat.
d „ door.
f[3] „ fan.
g as in got.
j[4] „ join.
k „ keep.
l „ leave.
m „ man.
n „ not.
ñ „ the Spanish “campaña,” like ni in companion, onion.
p[3] „ pain.
r „ rain.
s „ son.
t „ tame.
v „ vain.
w „ win.
y „ yet.
z „ zeal.
_Double Consonants._
gh as in ghost, and the g in grumble.
ks as x in tax, excise.
kh as ch in the Scotch word loch.
th as in tooth.
ts as in Betsy.
ng as in wrong.
A few slight discrepancies in the spelling of names will, I trust, be excused, the printing having already commenced before I had entirely settled the orthography I would adopt.
HENRY BARTH, PH.D.
_St. John’s Wood, London, May_ 1. 1857.
[Footnote 1: Some details will be considered in a Memoir to be subjoined at the end of this work. It is to be hoped that Dr. Vogel’s calculations themselves may be received in the meantime.]
[Footnote 2: “ʿAbd el Kerím,” meaning “Servant of the Merciful,” was the name which I thought it prudent to adopt.]
[Footnote 3: p, ph, f, in many African languages, are constantly interchanged, the same as r and dh, r and l.]
[Footnote 4: No distinction has been made between the different sounds of j.]
CONTENTS OF THE FIRST VOLUME.
* * * * *
CHAPTER I.
Page
From Tunis to Tripoli 1
The First Start. — The Passage of the Syrtis. — Little Progress. — Trials of Temper. — Our Companions. — An Old Friend. — Reach Tripoli.
CHAP. II.
Tripoli. — The Plain and the Mountain-slope; the Arab and the Berber 17
An Excursion. — Arab Encampments. — Commencement of the Hilly Region. — The Plateau. — Turkish Stronghold. — Berber Settlements. — The Picturesque Fountain. — Wádí Welád ʿAli. — Khalaifa. — Beautiful Ravine. — Um e’ Zerzán. — Enshéd e’ Sufét. — Roman Sepulchre. — Kikla. — Wádí Kerdemín. — Rabda. — Kasr Ghurián. — Mount Tekút. — Kasr Teghrínna. — Hanshír. — Wádí Rummána.
CHAP. III.
Fertile Mountain Region rich in ancient Remains 51
Wádí Rán. — Jebel Msíd. — Singular Monuments. — Structure Described. — Conjectural Character. — Other Ancient Ruins. — Approach to Tarhóna. — The Governor’s Encampment. — Ruins near ʿAín Shershára. — Kasr Dóga. — Kasr Dawán. — Jebel Msíd — Meselláta. — Kasr Kerker. — The Cinyps. — Leptis-Khoms.
CHAP. IV.
Departure for the Interior. — Arrival at Mizda. — Remains of a Christian Church 85
The Departure. — ʿAín Zára. — Mejenín. — Wádí Haera. — The Boat crosses the Defile. — Ghurián. — Kuléba. — Roman Milestones. — Mizda. — The Eastern Village. — Jebel Durmán. — Wádí Sófejín. — Ruined Castle. — Christian Remains.
CHAP. V.
Sculptures and Roman Remains in the Desert. — Gharíya 112
Roman Sepulchre in Wádí Talha. — Wádí Tagíje. — Remarkable Monument. — Description of Monument. — Wádí Zemzem. — Roman Sepulchres at Taboníye. — Gharíya. — Roman Gateway. — Arab Tower. — Roman Inscription. — Gharíya e’ sherkíya. — The Hammáda. — Storms in the Desert. — End of the Hammáda. — El Hasi, “the Well.”
CHAP. VI.
Wádí Sháti. — Old Jerma. — Arrival in Múrzuk 143
Wádí Sháti, or Shiyáti. — Éderí and its Gardens. — Wádí Shiúkh. — Sandy Region. — Reach the Wádí. — Ugréfe. — Jerma Kadím. — The Last Roman Monument. — The Groves of the Wádí. — End of the Wádí. — Arrival at Múrzuk.
CHAP. VII.
Residence in Múrzuk 164
Delay. — Character of Múrzuk. — Ground-plan of Múrzuk.
CHAP. VIII.
The Desert. — Tasáwa. — Exactions of the Escort. — Delay at Eláwen 171
Setting out from Múrzuk. — Tiggerurtín, the Village of the Tinýlkum. — Gathering of the Caravan. — Tasáwa. — Arrival of the Tawárek Chiefs. — Reformation of Islám. — Return to Múrzuk. — Move on finally. — Sháraba. — Wádí Aberjúsh. — Rate of Travelling. — Join the Caravan. — Tesémmak. — Wádí Eláwen. — Hatíta’s Intrigues.
CHAP. IX.
Singular Sculptures in the Desert. — The Mountain-pass 194
Hatíta. — Sculptures in Telísaghé. — Subject of Sculptures, Two Deities Fighting about a Bull. — Herd of Bulls. — Cattle formerly Beasts of Burden in the Desert. — Fine Valleys. — Breaking up of the Plateau. — The Narrow Gutter-like Pass of Ralle. — Téliya. — Sérdales. — Valley Tánesof. — Mount Ídinen. — The Traveller’s Mishap. — Astray in the Desert. — The Wanderer Found. — Arrival at Ghát.
CHAP. X.
The Indigenous Berber Population 223
Fezzán, a Berber Country. — The Berbers. — Their Real Name Mázígh; the Name Tawárek of Arab Origin. — The Azkár. — History of the Azkár. — The Hadánarang. — Degraded Tribes. — The Imghád. — The Kél. — View of the Valley of Ghát.
CHAP. XI.
Crossing a large Mountain-ridge, and entering on the open gravelly Desert 241
The town of Bárakat. — The Date-groves of Bárakat and their Inhabitants. — Alpine Lake. — The Tawáti. — High Mountain-pass. — Deep Ravine of Égeri. — Threatened Attack. — Region of Granite Commences. — Desert Plain of Mariaw. — Afalésselez. — Approach to Tropical Climes. — Wild Oxen (“bagr el wahsh”) in the Desert. — Nghákeli, New Vegetation (_Balanites Ægyptiaca_).
CHAP. XII.
Dangerous Approach to Ásben 267
Picturesque Peak. — Valley of Arókam. — Caravan of Merábetín. — Aséttere. — The Guineaworm. — The Caravan (at Aísala). — Berber Inscription. — Ikadémmelrang. — Peculiar Mounts. — Marárraba, the Half-way. — Bóro’s Threats. — First View of Ásben. — Asëu. — Approach of the Enemy. — Valley Fénorang. — The Freebooters. — Timázkaren. — Máket-n-Íkelán, the Slaves’ Dance. — Continued Alarms. — The Valley of Jínninau. — Pleasant Valley of Gébi. — The _Capparis sodata_.
CHAP. XIII.
Inhabited but dangerous Frontier-region 297
Tághajít. — Character of the Borderers. — New Alarms. — Order of Battle. — Mohammed Bóro. — A Tardy Acknowledgment. — Formidable Threats. — The Compromise. — Mountains of Ásben. — Valley of Tídik. — Sad Disappointment. — Definitive Attack. — The Pillage. — _Cucifera Thebaïca_. — Selúfiet. — Tin-tagh-odé, the Settlement of the Merábetín. — Short State of Supplies. — A Desert Torrent. — Arrival of the Escort. — Valley of Fódet — Camel-Races. — Parting of Friends. — Valley of Afís. — New Troubles. — Arrival at Tintéllust. — The English Hill.
CHAP. XIV.
Ethnographical Relations of Aïr 335
The name Aïr or Ahír. — Country of the Goberáwa. — The Kél-owí. — Recent Conquest. — Descent in the Female Line. — Mixed Population. — Language. — Sections of the Kél-owí. — The Irólangh. — Tribe of the Sheikh Ánnur. — The Ikázkezan. — The Kél-n-Néggaru. — The Éfadaye. — League of the Kél-owí with the Kél-gerés and Itísan. — The Kél-fadaye. — The word “Mehárebí.” — The Kél-ferwán. — The Itísan and Kél-gerés. — Population of Ásben. — The Salt-trade.[5]
CHAP. XV.
Residence in Tintéllust 360
The Sheikh Ánnur’s Character. — Rainy Season. — Nocturnal Attack. — Want of Proper Food. — Preparations for Advance.
CHAP. XVI.
Journey to Ágades 370
Attempt at Bullock-riding. — Tawárek Blacksmiths. — The Double Horn of Mount Cheréka. — Ásodi and its Ruins. — Mounts Eghellál, Bághzen, and Ágata. — Mounts Belásega and Abíla. — The Valley Tíggeda. — The Picturesque Valley of Ásada. — The Valley of Tághist with the Ancient Place of Prayer. — Picturesque Valley of Aúderas with the Forest of Dúm-Palms. — Barbarity. — Valley Búdde. — The Natron. — The Feathered Bur. — Imghád of the Valleys. — Fertile Valley Bóghel. — The Large Báure-tree. — Arrival near Ágades. — The Troopers. — Entrance into the Town.
CHAP. XVII.
Ágades 397
The Retail Traders from Tawát. — The Learned ʿAbdallah. — Aspect of the Town. — The Sultan’s Quarter. — Interview with the Chief. — Mohammed Bóro’s House and Family. — Markets of Ágades. — Manufactures. — Native Cavalry. — View of the Town. — The Kádhi. — Interior of Ágades. — Various Visitors. — The “Fúra,” a Favourite Drink. — Manners and Customs. — A Misadventure. — Language of Ágades the same as that of Timbúktu. — My Friend Hamma. — The Fatal Dungeon. — Ceremony of Investiture. — The Procession. — Visitors. — Rumours of War. — On Rock-Inscriptions. — Visitors again. — Episode. — Parting with Bóro. — Tailelt (Guinea-fowl) Tobes. — Áshu’s Garden. — Letters from the Sultan. — Military Expedition. — Results of the Expedition. — Interior of a House. — The Emgedesi Lady. — Ruinous Quarter. — Wanton Manners. — The Mosque and Tower. — Interior of the Mosque. — Hostile Disposition of the Kádhi. — Other Mosques in Ágades. — Enlightened Views. — Preparations for Departure.
CHAP. XVIII.
History of Ágades 458
Ágades not Identical with Aúdaghost. — Meaning of the Name. — The Songhay Conqueror Háj Mohammed Askiá (Leo’s Ischia). — The Associated Tribes. — Leo’s Account of Ágades. — The Ighedálen. — Tegídda or Tekádda. — Gógó and the Ancient Gold-Trade. — Position of the Ruler of Ágades. — The Sultan and his Minister. — Meaning of the word “Turáwa.” — The Town, its Population. — Period of Decline. — Ground-Plan and Quarters of the Town. — Decline of Commerce. — Market Prices.
CHAP. XIX.
Departure from Ágades. — Stay in Tin-téggana 481
Abortive Commencement of Journey. — The Valley Tíggeda full of Life. — Tintéllust Deserted. — Arrival in Tin-téggana. — Stay in Tin-téggana. — Mohammed el Gatróni. — Turbulent State of the Country. — Conversation on Religion. — Poor Diet. — Prolonged Delay. — Preparations for Starting.
CHAP. XX.
Final Departure for Sudán 500
Taking Leave of Tin-téggana. — Trachytic Peak of Teléshera. — Valley of Tánegat. — The Salt-caravan. — Wild Manners of the Tawárek. — Mount Mári. — Richer Vegetation. — Well Álbes. — Tebu Merchants. — Chémia. — Mount Bághzen. — Camels lost. — Rich Valley Unán. — Stone Dwellings of Kél-gerés. — Christmas Day. — Taking Leave of Hamma.
CHAP. XXI.
The Border-region of the Desert. — The Tagáma 519
Travelling in earnest. — Home of the Giraffe and _Antilope leucoryx_. — The Mágariá. — The _Cornus nabeca_ and the Feathery Bristle. — Princely Present. — Animals (_Orycteropus Æthiopicus_). — The Tagáma; their Peculiar character. — The Tarki Beauty. — New Plants. — Steep Descent. — Ponds of Stagnant Water. — Corn-fields of Damerghú. — The Warlike Chief Dan Íbra. — Ungwa Sámmit. — Negro Architecture. — Name of the Hut in Various Languages. — Animal and Vegetable Kingdoms. — Horses grazing. — Arrival in Tágelel. — The Ikázkezan Freebooter. — Niggardliness of the Chief. — Towns and Villages of Damerghú. — The Haunts of the Freebooters. — Market of Tágelel. — The “Devil’s Dance.”
* * * * *
APPENDIX.
I.
Route from Ágades to Sókoto 555
II.
Route from Ágades to Marádi, according to the Information of the Kél-gerés Gojéri and his Companion Gháser 556
III.
Itinerary from Ágades to Damerghú, according to various Informants 558
IV.
Route from Ágades to Bílma, according to the Émgedesi Éderi 558
V.
Route from Ágades to Tawát, according to ʿAbd-Alla 560
VI.
Route from Ágades to the Hillet e’ Sheikh Sídi el Mukhtár in Azawád, according to the Kél-ferwán Baina 568
VII.
Fragments of Meteorological Register 571
[Footnote 5: “The people of Ágades at that time (the last quarter of the last century)—though Ágades then belonged to the Cashna empire—were annually permitted to load their immense caravans with the salt of Bornou, from the salt lakes of Demboo” (the Tebu country?), “the merchants of Ágades giving in return for the article a trifling price in brass and copper.”—_Lucas, Proceedings of the African Association_, vol. i. p. 159.]
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS IN THE FIRST VOLUME.
* * * * *
MAPS.
Page
I. General Map of Africa _to face Preface_
II. Route through the Mountainous Region of Tripoli „ 17
III. Route from Tripoli to Múrzuk „ 85
IV. Route from Múrzuk to Wádí Falésselez „ 171
V. Route from Falésselez to Tídik „ 241
VI. Route from Tídik to Tágelel „ 297
PLATES.
1. Aúderas _Frontispiece_
2. Wádí Welád ʿAlí _to face_ 29
3. Kasr Ghurián and W. Rummána „ 49
4. Mizda „ 100
5. El Hasi „ 141
6. Éderi „ 146
7. Múrzuk „ 168
8. Telísaghé „ 196
9. Ghát „ 238
10. Égeri „ 252
11. Tintéllust „ 334
12. Ágades „ 408
WOODCUTS.
Picturesque Fountain 27
General View of Enshéd e’ Sufét 34
The Monument 35
Aboriginal Structures 58
Kasr Dóga 70
Another pair of Pillars, with Slab and Sculpture of a Dog 74
Curious Sculpture 79
General View of Mizda 101
Kasr Khafaije ʿAámer 106
Ruins of Christian Church 108
Two Capitals 109
Ground-plan 111
Roman Sepulchre in Wádí Talha 113
Roman Sepulchre in Wádí Tagíje 117
Roman Sepulchre at Taboníye 124
Gateway of Roman Station at Gharíya 126
Ground-plan of Station 129
Encampment at Ugréfe 154
Roman Sepulchre near Jerma (Garama) 157
Ground-plan of Múrzuk 169
Tiggerurtín 173
Encampment at Tesémmak 189
Hatíta on his Camel 195
First Sculpture of Telisaghé (two deities) 197
Herd of Bulls 200
Bull jumping into a Ring 201
Mount Ídinen 213
Ground-plan of Quarters at Ghát 222
The Mountain Pass 251
Pond in Valley Égeri 253
Mount Tiska 258
Picturesque Peak 267
Mountain-ridge near Arókam 269
Indented Ridge 270
Stratified Mount 276
Mountain-group 292
View of Mountain-chains 294
Mountains of Tídik 311
Mount Kadamméllet 312
Mountains of Selúfiet 320
Valley of Fódet 329
Mount Cheréka and Eghellál 374
Mount Cheréka, from another side 375
Mountain-chain 377
Deep Chasm of Mount Eghellál 378
Mount Ágata 379
Mount Belásega 380
Valley Tíggeda 382
Distinguished Mount 388
Audience-hall of Chief of Ágades 400
Mohammed Bóro’s House 403
A Leather Box 406
Two Native Spoons 414
Ground-plan of a House 442
Another Ground-plan 446
View of the High Watch-tower 450
Ground-plan of Ágades 475
Encampment in Tin-téggana 488
Mount Mári, in profile 506
Mount Mári, in front 507
Mount Bághzen, from the east side 512
TRAVELS AND DISCOVERIES IN AFRICA.
* * * * *
CHAPTER I.
FROM TUNIS TO TRIPOLI.
Mr. Richardson was waiting in Paris for despatches, when Mr. Overweg and I reached Tunis, by way of Philippeville and Bona, on the 15th of December, 1849; and having, through the kind interference of Mr. Ferrier the British vice-consul, been allowed to enter the town after six days’ quarantine, we began immediately to provide ourselves with articles of dress, while in the meantime we took most interesting daily rides to the site of ancient Carthage.
Having procured many useful articles for our journey, and having found a servant, the son of a freed slave from Gober, we left Tunis on the 30th of December[6], and passed the first night in Hammám el Enf. Early next morning we followed the charming route by Krumbália, which presents a no less vivid specimen of the beauty and natural fertility of the Tunisian country than of the desolate state to which it is at present reduced. We then passed the fine gardens of Turki, a narrow spot of cultivation in a wide desolate plain of the finest soil; and leaving el Khwín to our right, we reached el Arbʿain.
Both these places enjoy a peculiar celebrity with the natives. El Khwín is said to have been once a populous place; but nearly all its inhabitants were destroyed by a spring of bituminous water, which according to tradition, afterwards disappeared. El Arbʿain, the locality of the “forty” martyrs, is a holy place; and ʿAli, our muleteer, in his pious zeal, took up a handful of the sacred earth and sprinkled it over us. It is a most picturesque spot. Keeping then along the wild plain covered with a thick underwood of myrtle, we beheld in the distance the highly picturesque and beautiful Mount Zaghwán, the Holy Mountain of the ancient inhabitants, which rose in a majestic form; and we at length reached Bir el buwíta, “the well of the little closet,” at one o’clock in the afternoon. The “little closet,” however, had given place to a most decent-looking whitewashed khán, where we took up our quarters in a clean room. But our buoyant spirits did not allow us long repose; and a quarter before eleven at night we were again on our mules.
I shall never forget this, the last night of the year 1849, which opened to us a new era with many ordeals, and by our endurance of which we were to render ourselves worthy of success. There were, besides ourselves, our servants, and our two muleteers, four horsemen of the Bey, and three natives from Jirbi. When midnight came my fellow traveller and I saluted the new year with enthusiasm, and with a cordial shake of the hand wished each other joy. Our Mohammedan companions were greatly pleased when they were informed of the reason of our congratulating each other, and wished us all possible success for the new year. We had also reason to be pleased with them; for by their not inharmonious songs they relieved the fatigue of a long, sleepless, and excessively cold night.
Having made a short halt under the olive-trees at the side of the dilapidated town of Herkla, and taken a morsel of bread, we moved on with our poor animals without interruption till half an hour after noon, when we reached the funduk (or caravanserai) Sidi Bú Jʿafer, near Súsa, where we took up our quarters, in order to be able to start again at night, the gates of the town being kept shut till morning.[7]
Starting before three o’clock in the morning, we were exactly twelve hours in reaching El Jem, with the famous Castle of the Prophetess, still one of the most splendid monuments of Roman greatness overhanging the most shabby hovels of Mohammedan indifference. On the way we had a fine view, towards the west, of the picturesque Jebel Trutsa, along the foot of which I had passed on my former wanderings, and of the wide, out-stretching Jebel Useleet.
Another ride of twelve hours brought us, on the 3rd of January 1850, to Sfákes, where we were obliged to take up our quarters in the town, as our land-journey was here at an end, and we were to procure a vessel to carry us either direct to Tripoli, or to some other point on the opposite side of the Lesser Syrtis. The journey by land is not only expensive, particularly for people who are encumbered with a good deal of luggage, as we then were, and very long and tedious, but is also very unsafe, as I found from experience on my former journey. The island of Jirbi, which forms the natural station of the maritime intercourse between the regency of Tunis and that of Tripoli, had been put under the strictest rules of quarantine, rather from political considerations than from those of health, all intercourse with the mainland having been cut off. It was therefore with great difficulty that we succeeded in hiring a “gáreb” to carry us to Zwára, in which we embarked in the forenoon of Saturday the 5th of January.
During our two days’ stay in Sfákes we made the acquaintance of a Jew calling himself Baránes, but who is in truth the Jew servant named Jacob who accompanied Denham and Clapperton, and is several times mentioned in the narrative of those enterprising travellers as self-conceited and stubborn; yet he seems to be rather a clever fellow, and in some way or other contrives to be on the best terms with the governor. He communicated to us many anecdotes of the former expedition, and, among other things, a very mysterious history of a Danish traveller in disguise whom they met in Borno coming all the way from Dar-Fúr through Wadaï. There is not the least mention of such a meeting in the journal of the expedition, nor has such an achievement of a European traveller ever been heard of; and I can scarcely believe the truth of this story, though the Jew was quite positive about it.
The vessel in which we embarked was as miserable as it could be, there being only a small low cabin as high as a dog-kennel, and measuring, in its greatest width, from six to seven feet, where I and my companion were to pass the night. We thought that a run of forty-eight hours, at the utmost, would carry us across the gulf; but the winds in the Lesser Syrtis are extremely uncertain, and sometimes so violent that a little vessel is obliged to run along the coast.
At first we went on tolerably well; but the wind soon became unfavourable, and in the evening we were obliged to cast anchor opposite Nekta, and, to our despair, were kept there till the afternoon of Tuesday, when at length we were enabled to go forward in our frail little shell, and reached Méheres—not Sidi Méheres, as it is generally called in the maps—in the darkness of night. Having made up our minds rather to risk anything than to be longer immured in such a desperate dungeon as our gáreb, we went on shore early on Wednesday morning with all our things, but were not able to conclude a bargain with some Bedowín of the tribe of the Léffet, who were watering their camels at the well.