part II
.—Vaseline Pomade.—
Vaseline oil, white 1,000 parts Wax, white 300 part Geranium oil, African. 40 parts Lemon oil. 20 parts
III.—Rose Pomade.—
Almond oil 1,000 parts Wax, white 300 parts Alkannin 3 parts Geranium oil 20 parts
IV.—Yellow Pomade.—
Vaseline oil, white. 1,000 parts Wax, white 200 parts Spermaceti 200 parts Saffron surrogate. 10 parts Clove oil. 20 parts
V.—White Pomade.—
Vaseline oil, white 1,000 parts Wax, white. 300 parts Bitter almond oil, genuine. 10 parts Lemon oil 2 parts
VI.—Paraffine 49.0 parts Vaseline. 49.0 parts Oil of lemon. 0.75 parts Oil of violet 0.75 parts Carmine, quantity sufficient.
«Lipol.»—For treating sore, rough, or inflamed lips, apply the following night and morning, rubbing in well with the finger tips: Camphor, 1/2 ounce; menthol, 1/2 ounce; eucalyptol, 1 drachm; petrolatum (white), 1 pound; paraffine, 1/2 pound; alkanet root, 1/2 ounce; oil of bitter almonds, 15 drops; oil of cloves, 10 drops; oil of cassia, 5 drops. Digest the root in the melted paraffine and petrolatum, strain, add the other ingredients and pour into lip jars, hot.
«MANICURE PREPARATIONS:»
«Powdered Nail Polishes.»—
I.—Tin oxide 8 drachms Carmine 1/4 drachm Rose oil. 6 drops Neroli oil. 5 drops
II.—Cinnabar. 1 drachm Infusorial earth. 8 drachms
III.—Putty powder (fine). 4 drachms Carmine. 2 grains Oil of rose. 1 drop
IV.—White castile soap. 1 part Hot water 16 parts Zinc chloride solution, 10 per cent, quantity sufficient.
Dissolve the soap in the water and to the solution add the zinc-chloride solution until no further precipitation occurs. Let stand over night; pour off the supernatant fluid, wash the precipitate {227} well with water, and dry at the ordinary temperature. Carmine may be added if desired.
«Polishing Pastes for the Nails.»—
I.—Talcum. 5 drachms Stannous oxide. 3 drachms Powdered tragacanth 5 grains Glycerine 1 drachm Rose water, quantity sufficient. Solution of carmine sufficient to tint.
Make paste.
For softening the nails, curing hangnails, etc., an ointment is sometimes used consisting of white petrolatum, 8 parts; powdered castile soap, 1 part; and perfume to suit.
II.—Eosine 10 grains White wax 1/2 drachm Spermaceti 1/2 drachm Soft paraffine 1 ounce Alcohol, a sufficient quantity.
Dissolve the eosine in as little alcohol as will suffice, melt the other ingredients together, add the solution, and stir until cool.
«Nail-Cleaning Washes.»—
I.—Tartaric acid 1 drachm Tincture of myrrh 1 drachm Cologne water 2 drachms Water 3 ounces
Dissolve the acid in the water; mix the tincture of myrrh and cologne, and add to the acid solution.
Dip the nails in this solution, wipe, and polish with chamois skin.
II.—Oxalic acid 30 grains Rose water 1 ounce
«Nail Varnish.»—
Paraffine wax 60 grains Chloroform 2 ounces Oil of rose 3 drops
«POMADES:»
I.—Beef-Marrow Pomade.—
Vaseline oil, yellow 20,000 parts Ceresine, yellow 3,000 parts Beef marrow 2,000 parts Saffron substitute 15 parts Lemon oil 50 parts Bergamot oil 20 parts Clove oil 5 parts Lavender oil. 10 parts
II.—China Pomade.—
Vaseline oil, yellow 20,000 parts Ceresine, yellow 5,000 parts Brilliant, brown 12 parts Peru balsam 50 parts Lemon oil 5 parts Bergamot oil 5 parts Clove oil 5 parts Lavender oil 5 parts
III.—Crystalline Honey Pomade.—Nut oil, 125 drachms; spermaceti, 15 drachms; gamboge, 2 drachms; vervain oil, 10 drops; cinnamon oil, 20 drops; bergamot oil, 30 drops; rose oil, 3 drops. The spermaceti is melted in the nut oil on a water bath and digested with the gamboge for 20 minutes; it is next strained, scented, and poured into cans which are standing in water. The cooling must take place very slowly. Instead of gamboge, butter color may be used. Any desired scent mixture may be employed.
IV.—Herb Pomade.—
Vaseline oil, yellow 20,000 parts Ceresine, yellow 5,000 parts Chlorophyll 20 parts Lemon oil 50 parts Clove oil 20 parts Geranium oil, African 12 parts Curled mint oil. 4 parts
V.—Rose Pomade.—
Vaseline oil, white 20,000 parts Ceresine, white 5,000 parts Alkannin 15 parts Geranium oil, African 50 parts Palmarosa oil 30 parts Lemon oil 20 parts
VI.—Strawberry Pomade.—When the strawberry season is on, and berries are plenty and cheap, the following is timely:
Strawberries, ripe and fresh 4 parts Lard, sweet and fresh 25 parts Tallow, fresh 5 parts Alkanet tincture, quantity sufficient. Essential oil, quantity sufficient to perfume.
Melt lard and tallow together on the water bath at the temperature of boiling water. Have the strawberries arranged on a straining cloth. Add the alkanet tincture to the melted grease, stir in, and then pour the mixture over the berries. Stir the strained fats until the mass {228} begins to set, then add the perfume and stir in. A little artificial essence of strawberries may be added. The odor usually employed is rose, about 1 drop to every 2 pounds.
VII.—Stick Pomade.—
Tallow 500 parts Ceresine 150 parts Wax, yellow 50 parts Rosin, light 200 parts Paraffine oil (thick) 300 parts Oil of cassia. 5 parts Oil of bergamot 5 parts Oil of clove 2 parts
VIII.—Vaseline Pomade.—Melt 250 parts of freshly rendered lard and 25 parts of white wax at moderate heat and mix well with 200 parts of vaseline. Add 15 parts of bergamot oil, 3 parts of lavender oil, 2 parts of geranium oil, and 2 parts of lemon oil, mixing well.
IX.—Witch-Hazel Jelly.—
Oil of sweet almonds 256 parts Extract of witch-hazel fluid 10 parts Glycerine 32 parts oft soap 20 parts Tincture of musk, quantity sufficient to perfume.
Mix in a large mortar the glycerine and soft soap and stir until incorporated. Add and rub in the witch-hazel, and then add the oil, slowly, letting it fall in a very thin, small stream, under constant agitation; add the perfume, keeping up the agitation until complete incorporation is attained. Ten drops of musk to a quart of jelly is sufficient. Any other perfume may be used.
«Colors for Pomade.»—Pomade may be colored red by infusing alkanet in the grease; yellow may be obtained by using annotto in the same way; an oil-soluble chlorophyll will give a green color by admixture.
In coloring grease by means of alkanet or annotto it is best to tie the drug up in a piece of coarse cloth, place in a small portion of the grease, heat gently, squeezing well with a rod from time to time; and then adding this strongly colored grease to the remainder. This procedure obviates exposing the entire mass to heat, and neither decantation nor straining is needed.
«Brocq’s Pomade for Itching.»—
Acid phenic 1 part Acid salicylic 2 parts Acid tartaric 3 parts Glycerole of starch 60 to 100 parts
Mix and make a pomade.
«White Cosmetique.»—
Jasmine pomade 2 ounces Tuberose pomade 2 ounces White wax 2 ounces Refined suet 4 ounces Rose oil 15 minims
Melt the wax and suet over a water bath, then add the pomades, and finally the otto.
«Glycerine and Cucumber Jelly.»—
Gelatin 160 to 240 grains Boric acid 240 grains Glycerine 6 fluidounces Water 10 fluidounces
Perfume to suit. The perfume must be one that mixes without opalescence, otherwise it mars the beauty of the preparation. Orange-flower water or rose water could be substituted for the water if desired, or another perfume consisting of
Spirit of vanillin (15 grains per ounce) 2 fluidrachms Spirit of coumarin (15 grains per ounce) 2 fluidrachms Spirit of bitter almonds (1/8) 8 minims
to the quantities given above would prove agreeable.
«Cucumber Pomade.»—
Cucumber pomade 2 ounces Powdered white soap 1/2 ounce Powdered borax 2 drachms Cherry-laurel water 3 ounces Rectified spirit 3 ounces Distilled water to make 48 ounces
Rub the pomade with the soap and borax until intimately mixed, then add the distilled water (which may be warmed to blood heat), ounce by ounce, to form a smooth and uniform cream. When 40 ounces of water have been so incorporated, dissolve any essential oils desired as perfume in the spirit, and add the cherry-laurel water, making up to 48 ounces with plain water.
«ROUGES AND PAINTS:»
«Grease Paints.»—Theatrical face paints are sold in sticks, and there are many varieties of color. Yellows are obtained with ocher; browns with burnt umber; and blue is made with ultramarine. These colors should in each case be levigated finely along with their own weight {229} of equal parts of precipitated chalk and oxide of zinc and diluted with the same to the tint required, then made into sticks with mutton suet (or vaseline or paraffine, equal parts) well perfumed. By blending these colors, other tints may thus be obtained.
«White Grease Paints.»—
I.—Prepared chalk 4 av. ounces Zinc oxide 4 av. ounces Bismuth subnitrate 4 av. ounces Asbestos powder 4 av. ounces Sweet almond oil, about 2 1/2 fluidounces Camphor 40 grains Oil peppermint 3 fluidrachms Esobouquet extract 3 fluidrachms
Sufficient almond oil should be used to form a mass of proper consistence.
II.—Zinc oxide. 8 parts Bismuth subnitrate 8 parts Aluminum oxychloride 8 parts Almond oil, quantity sufficient, or 5–6 parts. Perfume, quantity sufficient.
Mix the zinc, bismuth, and aluminum oxychloride thoroughly; make into a paste with the oil. Any perfume may be added, but that generally used is composed of 1 drachm of essence of bouquet, 12 grains of camphor, and 12 minims of oil of peppermint for every 3 1/2 ounces of paste.
«Bright Red.»—
Zinc oxide 10 parts Bismuth subnitrate 10 parts Aluminum oxychloride 10 parts Almond oil, quantity sufficient.
Mix the zinc, bismuth, and aluminum salts, and to every 4 ounces of the mixture add 2 1/4 grains of eosine dissolved in a drachm of essence of bouquet, 12 minims oil of peppermint, and 12 grains of camphor. Make the whole into a paste with almond oil.
«Red.»—
Cacao butter 4 av. ounces White wax 4 av. ounces Olive oil 2 fluidounces Oil of rose 8 drops Oil of bergamot 3 drops Oil of neroli 2 drops Tincture musk 2 drops Carmine 90 grains Ammonia water 3 fluidrachms
«Deep, or Bordeaux, Red.»—
Zinc oxide 30 parts Bismuth subnitrate 30 parts Aluminum oxychloride 30 parts Carmine 1 part Ammonia water 5 parts Essence bouquet 3 parts Peppermint, camphor, etc., quantity sufficient.
Mix the zinc, bismuth, and aluminum salts. Dissolve the carmine in the ammonia and add solution to the mixture. Add 24 grains of camphor, and 24 minims of oil of peppermint dissolved in the essence bouquet, and make the whole into a paste with oil of sweet almonds.
«Vermilion.»—
Vermilion 18 parts Tincture of saffron 12 parts Orris root, powdered 30 parts Chalk, precipitated 120 parts Zinc oxide 120 parts Camphor 2 parts Essence bouquet 9 parts Oil of peppermint 2 parts Almond oil, quantity sufficient.
Mix as before.
«Pink.»—
Zinc carbonate 250 parts Bismuth subnitrate 250 parts Asbestos 250 parts Expressed oil of almonds 100 parts Camphor 55 parts Oil of peppermint 55 parts Perfume 25 parts Eosine 1 part
«Dark Red.»—Like the preceding, but colored with a solution of carmine.
«Rouge.»—
Zinc oxide. 2 1/2 ounces Bismuth subnitrate 2 1/2 ounces Aluminum plumbate 2 1/2 ounces Eosine 1 drachm Essence bouquet 2 drachms Camphor 6 drachms Oil of peppermint 20 minims Almond oil, quantity sufficient.
Dissolve the eosine in the essence bouquet, and mix with the camphor and peppermint; add the powder and make into a paste with almond oil.
«Black Grease Paints.»—
I.—Soot 2 av. ounces Sweet almond oil 2 fluidounces Cacao butter 6 av. ounces Perfume, sufficient.
{230}
The soot should be derived from burning camphor and repeatedly washed with alcohol. It should be triturated to a smooth mixture with the oil; then add to the melted cacao butter; add the perfume, and form into sticks.
Brown or other colors may be obtained by adding appropriate pigments, such as finely levigated burned umber, sienna, ocher, jeweler’s rouge, etc., to the foregoing base instead of lampblack.
II.—Best lampblack 1 drachm Cacao butter 3 drachms Olive oil 3 drachms Oil of neroli 2 drops
Melt the cacao butter and oil, add the lampblack, and stir constantly as the mixture cools, adding the perfume toward the end.
III.—Lampblack 1 part Cacao butter 6 parts Oil neroli, sufficient.
Melt the cacao butter and the lampblack, and while cooling make an intimate mixture, adding the perfume toward the last.
IV.—Lampblack. 1 part Expressed oil of almonds 1 part Oil cocoanut 1 part Perfume, sufficient.
Beat the lampblack into a stiff paste with glycerine. Apply with a sponge; if necessary, mix a little water with it when using.
V.—Beat the finest lampblack into a stiff paste with glycerine and apply with a sponge; if necessary, add a little water to the mixture when using. Or you can make a grease paint as follows: Drop black, 2 drachms; almond oil, 2 drachms; cocoanut oil, 6 drachms; oil of lemon, 5 minims; oil of neroli, 1 minim. Mix.
«Fatty Face Powders.»—These have a small percentage of fat mixed with them in order to make the powder adhere to the skin.
Dissolve 1 drachm anhydrous lanolin in 2 drachms of ether in a mortar. Add 3 drachms of light magnesia. Mix well, dry, and then add the following: French chalk, 2 ounces; powdered starch, 1 1/2 ounces; boric acid, 1 drachm; perfume, a sufficient quantity. A good perfume is coumarin, 2 grains, and attar of rose, 2 minims.
«Nose Putty.»—I.—Mix 1 ounce wheat flour with 2 drachms of powdered tragacanth and tint with carmine. Take as much of the powder as necessary, knead into a stiff paste with a little water and apply to the nose, having previously painted it with spirit gum.
II.—White wax, 8 parts; rosin, white, 8 parts; mutton suet, 4 parts; color to suit. Melt together.
«Rose Powder.»—As a base take 200 parts of powdered iris root, add 600 parts of rose petals, 100 parts of sandalwood, 100 parts of patchouli, 3 parts of oil of geranium, and 2 parts of true rose oil.
«Rouge Tablets.»—There are two distinct classes of these tablets: those in which the coloring matter is carmine, and those in which the aniline colors are used. The best are those prepared with carmine, or ammonium carminate, to speak more correctly. The following is an excellent formula:
Ammonium carminate 10 parts Talc, in powder 25 parts Dextrin 8 parts Simple syrup, sufficient. Perfume, to taste, sufficient.
Mix the talc and dextrin and add the perfume, preferably in the shape of an essential oil (attar of rose, synthetic oil of jasmine, or violet, etc.), using 6 to 8 drops to every 4 ounces of other ingredients. Incorporate the ammonium carminate and add just enough simple syrup to make a mass easily rolled out. Cut into tablets of the desired size. The ammonium carminate is made by adding 1 part of carmine to 2 1/2 parts of strong ammonia water. Mix in a vial, cork tightly, and set aside until a solution is formed, shaking occasionally. The ammonium carminate is made by dissolving carmine in ammonia water to saturation.
«Rouge Palettes.»—To prepare rouge palettes rub up together:
Carmine 9 parts French chalk 50 parts Almond oil 12 parts
Add enough tragacanth mucilage to make the mass adhere and spread the whole evenly on the porcelain palette.
«Liquid Rouge.»—
I.—Carmine 4 parts Stronger ammonia water 4 parts Essence of rose 16 parts Rose water to make. 500 parts
Mix. A very delightful violet odor, if this is preferred, is obtained by using ionone in place of rose essence. A cheaper preparation may be made as follows: {231}
II.—Eosine 1 part Distilled water 20 parts Glycerine 5 parts Cologne water 75 parts Alcohol 100 parts
Mix.
Rub together with 10 parts of almond oil and add sufficient mucilage of tragacanth to make the mass adhere to the porcelain palette.
III.—Carmine 1 part Stronger ammonia water 1 part Attar of rose 4 parts Rose water 125 parts
Mix. Any other color may be used in place of rose, violet (ionone), for instance, or heliotrope. A cheaper preparation may be made by substituting eosine for the carmine, as follows:
IV.—Eosine 1 part Distilled water 20 parts Glycerine 5 parts Cologne water 75 parts Alcohol 100 parts
Mix.
«Peach Tint.»—
_a._—Buffalo eosine 4 drachms Distilled water 16 fluidounces
Mix.
_b._—Pure hydrochloric acid 2 1/2 drachms Distilled water 64 fluidounces
Mix.
Pour _a_ into _b_, shake, and set aside for a few hours; then pour off the clear portion and collect the precipitate on a filter. Wash with the same amount of _b_ and immediately throw the precipitate into a glass measure, stirring in with a glass rod sufficient of _b_ to measure 16 ounces in all. Pass through a hair sieve to get out any filtering paper. To every 16 ounces add 8 ounces of glycerine.
«Theater Rouge.»—Base:
Cornstarch 4 drachms Powdered white talcum 6 drachms
Mix.
_a._—Carminoline 10 grains Base 6 drachms Water 4 drachms
Dissolve the carminoline in the water, mix with the base and dry.
_b._—Geranium red 10 grains Base 6 drachms Water 4 drachms
Mix as above and dry.
«SKIN FOODS.»
Wrinkles on the face yield to a wash consisting of 50 parts milk of almonds (made with rose water) and 4 parts aluminum sulphate. Use morning and night.
Rough skin is to be washed constantly in Vichy water. Besides this, rough places are to have the following application twice daily—either a few drops of:
I.—Rose water 100 parts Glycerine 25 parts Tannin 3/4