part Mix
thoroughly. A coat of the mixture is applied to the floor with a mop.
«Paraffining of Floors.»—The cracks and joints of the parquet floor are filled with a putty consisting of Spanish white, 540 parts; glue, 180 parts; sienna, 150 parts; umber, 110 parts; and calcareous earth, 20 parts. After 48 hours apply the paraffine, which is previously dissolved in petroleum, or preferably employed in a boiling condition, in which case it will enter slightly into the floor. When solidification sets in, the superfluous paraffine is scratched off and an even, smooth surface of glossy color results, which withstands acids and alkalies.
«Ball-Room Floor Powder.»—
Hard paraffine 1 pound Powdered boric acid 7 pounds Oil lavender 1 drachm Oil neroli 20 minims
Melt the paraffine and add the boric acid and the perfumes. Mix well, and sift through a 1/16 mesh sieve.
«Renovating Old Parquet Floors.»—Caustic soda lye, prepared by boiling for 45 minutes with 1 part calcined soda, and 1 part slaked lime with 15 parts water, in a cast-iron pot, is applied to the parquet to be renovated by means of a cloth attached to a stick. After a while rub off the floor with a stiff brush, fine sand, and a sufficient quantity of water, to remove the dirt and old wax. Spread a mixture of concentrated sulphuric acid and water in the proportion of 1 to 8 on the floor. The sulphuric acid will remove the particles of dirt and wax which have entered the floor and enliven the color of the wood. Finally, wax the parquet after it has been washed off with water and dried completely.
FLOOR OIL: See Oils.
FLOOR PAPER: See Paper.
FLOOR POLISH: See Polishes.
FLOOR VARNISHES: See Varnishes.
FLOOR WATERPROOFING: See Waterproofing.
FLOOR WAX: See Waxes.
FLORICIN OIL: See Oil.
«FLOWER PRESERVATIVES.»
I.—To preserve flowers they should be dipped in melted paraffine, which should be just hot enough to maintain its fluidity. The flowers should be dipped one at a time, held by the stalks and moved about for an instant to get rid of air bubbles. Fresh cut flowers, free from moisture, {346} are said to make excellent specimens when treated in this way. A solution in which cut flowers may be kept immersed is made as follows:
Salicylic acid 20 grains Formaldehyde 10 minims Alcohol 2 fluidounces Distilled water 1 quart
II.—The English method of preserving flowers so as to retain their form and color is to imbed the plants in a mixture of equal quantities of plaster of Paris and lime, and gradually heat them to a temperature of 100° F. After this the flower looks dusty, but if it is laid aside for an hour so as to absorb sufficient moisture to destroy its brittleness, it can be dusted without injury. To remove the hoary appearance which is often left, even after dusting, a varnish composed of 5 ounces of dammar and 16 ounces of oil of turpentine should be used and a second coat given if necessary. When the gum has been dissolved in the turpentine, 16 ounces of benzoline should be added, and the whole should be strained through fine muslin.
III.—Five hundred parts ether, 20 parts transparent copal, and 20 parts sand. The flowers should be immersed in the varnish for 2 minutes, then allowed to dry for 10 minutes, and this treatment should be repeated 5 or 6 times.
IV.—Place the flowers in a solution of 30 grains of salicylic acid in 1 quart of water.
V.—Moisten 1,000 parts of fine white sand that has been previously well washed and thoroughly dried and sifted, with a solution consisting of 3 parts of stearine, 3 parts of paraffine, 3 parts of salicylic acid, and 100 parts of alcohol. Work the sand up thoroughly so that every grain of it is impregnated with the mixture, and then spread it out and let it become perfectly dry. To use, place the flowers in a suitable box, the bottom of which has been covered with a portion of the prepared sand, and then dust the latter over them until all the interstices have been completely filled with it. Close the box lightly and put it in a place where it can be maintained at a temperature of from 86° to 104° F. for 2 or 3 days. At the expiration of this time remove the box and let the sand escape. The flowers can then be put into suitable receptacles or glass cases without fear of deterioration. Wilted or withered flowers should be freshened up by dipping into a suitable aniline solution, which will restore their color.
VI.—Stand the flowers upright in a box of proper size and pour over and around them fine dry sand, until the flowers are completely surrounded in every direction. Leave them in this way for 8 or 10 days, then carefully pour off the sand. The flowers retain their color and shape perfectly, but in very fleshy, juicy specimens the sand must be renewed. To be effective the sand must be as nearly dry as possible.
VII.—A method of preserving cut flowers in a condition of freshness is to dissolve small amounts of ammonium chloride, potassium nitrate, sodium carbonate or camphor in the water into which the stems are inserted. The presence of one or more of these drugs keeps the flowers from losing their turgidity by stimulating the cells to action and by opposing germ growth. Flowers that have already wilted are said to revive quickly if the stems are inserted in a weak camphor water.
«Stuccoed Gypsum Flowers.»—Take natural flowers, and coat the lower sides of their petals and stamens with paraffine or with a mixture of glue, gypsum, and lime, which is applied lightly. Very fine parts of the flowers, such as stamens, etc., may be previously supported by special attachments of textures, wire, etc. After the drying of the coating the whole is covered with shellac solution or with a mixture of glue, gypsum, lime with lead acetate, oil, mucilage, glycerine, colophony, etc. If desired, the surface may be painted with bronzes in various shades. Such flowers are much employed in the shape of festoons for decorating walls, etc.
«Artificial Coloring of Flowers.»—A method employed by florists to impart a green color to the white petals of “carnation pinks” consists in allowing long-stemmed flowers to stand in water containing a green aniline dye. When the flowers are fresh they absorb the fluid readily, and the dye is carried to the petals.
Where the original color of the flower is white, colored stripes can be produced upon the petals by putting the cut ends into water impregnated with a suitable aniline dye. Some dyes can thus be taken up by the capillary action of the stem and deposited in the tissue of the petal. If flowers are placed over a basin of water containing a very small amount of ammonia in a bell glass, the colors of the petals will generally show some marked change. Many violet-colored flowers when so treated will become {347} green, and if the petals contain several tints they will show greens where reds were, yellows where they were white, and deep carmine will become black. When such flowers are put into water they will retain their changed colors for hours.
If violet asters are moistened with very dilute nitric acid, the ray florets become red and acquire an agreeable odor.
FLUID MEASURES: See Weights and Measures.
«FLUORESCENT LIQUIDS.»
Æsculin gives pale blue by (1) reflected light, straw color by (2) transmitted light.
Amido-phthalic acid, pale violet (1), pale yellow (2). Amido-terephthalic acid, bright green (1), pale green (2).
Eosine, yellow green (1), orange (2).
Fluorescein, intense green (1), orange yellow (2).
Fraxin, blue green (1), pale green (2).
Magdala red, opaque scarlet (1), brilliant carmine (2).
Quinine, pale blue (1), no color (2).
Safranine, yellow red (1), crimson (2).
FLUXES USED IN ENAMELING: See Enameling.
FLUXES FOR SOLDERING: See Soldering.
«Fly-Papers and Fly-Poisons»
(See also Insecticides.)
«Sticky Fly-Papers.»—The sticky material applied to the paper is the following:
I.—Boiled linseed oil 5 to 7 parts Gum thus 2 to 3 parts Non-drying oil 3 to 7 parts
For the non-drying oil, cottonseed, castor, or neatsfoot will answer—in fact, any of the cheaper oils that do not readily dry or harden will answer. The proper amount of each ingredient depends upon the condition of the boiled oil. If it is boiled down very stiff, more of the other ingredients will be necessary, while if thin, less will be required.
II.—Rosin 8 parts Rapeseed oil 4 parts Honey 1 part
Melt the rosin and oil together, and incorporate the honey. Two parts of raw linseed oil and 2 parts of honey may be used along with 8 parts of rosin instead of the foregoing. Use paper already sized, as it comes from the mills, on which to spread the mixture.
III.—Castor oil 12 ounces Rosin 27 ounces
Melt together and spread on paper sized with glue, using 12 ounces glue to 4 pints water.
IV.—Rosin 8 ounces Venice turpentine 2 ounces Castor oil 2 ounces
Spread on paper sized with glue.
«Poisonous Fly-Papers.»—
I.—Quassia chips 150 parts Chloride of cobalt 10 parts Tartar emetic 2 parts Tincture of long pepper (1 to 4) 80 parts Water 400 parts
Boil the quassia in the water until the liquid is reduced one-half, strain, add the other ingredients, saturate common absorbent paper with the solution, and dry. The paper is used in the ordinary way.
II.—Potassium bichromate 10 ounces Sugar 3 drachms Oil of black pepper 2 drachms Alcohol 2 ounces Water 14 ounces
Mix and let stand for several days, then soak unsized paper with the solution.
III.—Cobalt chloride 4 drachms Hot water 16 ounces Brown sugar 1 ounce
Dissolve the cobalt in the water and add the sugar, saturate unsized paper in the solution, and hang up to dry.
IV.—Quassia chips 150 parts Cobalt chloride 10 parts Tartrate antimony 2 parts Tincture of pepper 80 parts Water 400 parts
Boil chips in the water until the volume of the latter is reduced one-half, add other ingredients and saturate paper and dry.
«Fly-Poison.»—
Pepper 4 ounces Quassia 4 ounces Sugar 8 ounces Diluted alcohol 4 ounces
Mix dry and sprinkle around where the flies can get it.
«Non-Poisonous Fly-Papers.»—I.—Mix 25 parts of quassia decoction (1:10) with 6 parts of brown sugar and 3 parts of ground pepper, and place on flat dishes.
II.—Mix 1 part of ground pepper and 1 part of brown sugar with 16 parts milk {348} or cream, and put the mixture on flat plates.
III.—Macerate 20 parts of quassia wood with 100 parts of water for 24 hours, boil one-half hour, and squeeze off 24 hours. The liquid is mixed with 3 parts of molasses, and evaporated to 10 parts. Next add 1 part of alcohol. Soak blotting paper with this mixture, and put on plates.
IV.—Dissolve 5 parts of potassium bichromate, 15 parts of sugar, and 1 part of essential pepper oil in 60 parts of water, and add 10 parts of alcohol. Saturate unsized paper with this solution and dry well.
V.—Boil together for half an hour
Ground quassia wood 18 pounds Broken colocynth 3 pounds Ground long pepper 5 pounds Water 80 pounds
Then percolate and make up to 60 pounds if necessary with more water. Then add 4 pounds of syrup. Unsized paper is soaked in this, and dried as quickly as possible to prevent it from getting sour.
VI.—Mix together
Ordinary syrup 100 ounces Honey 30 ounces Extract of quassia wood 4 ounces Oil of aniseed, a few drops.
«Removing the Gum of Sticky Fly-Paper.»—The “gum” of sticky fly-paper that has “leaked” over furniture and shelfware can be removed without causing injury to either furniture or bottles.
The “gum” of sticky fly-paper, while being quite adhesive, is easily dissolved with alcohol (grain or wood) or oil of turpentine. Alcohol will not injure the shelfware, but it should not be used on varnished furniture; in the latter case turpentine should be used.
FLY PROTECTIVES FOR ANIMALS: See Insecticides.
«FOAM PREPARATIONS.»
A harmless gum cream is the following:
I.—Digest 100 parts of Panama wood for 8 days with 400 parts of water and 100 parts of spirits of wine (90 per cent). Pour off without strong pressure and filter.
For every 5 parts of lemonade syrup take 5 parts of this extract, whereby a magnificent, always uniform foam is obtained on the lemonade.
II.—Heat 200 parts of quillaia bark with distilled water during an hour in a vapor bath, with frequent stirring, and squeeze out. Thin with water if necessary and filter.
«FOOD ADULTERANTS, SIMPLE TESTS FOR THEIR DETECTION.»
Abstract of a monograph by W. D. Bigelow and Burton J. Howard, published by the Department of Agriculture.
Generally speaking, the methods of chemical analysis employed in food laboratories can be manipulated only by one who has had at least the usual college course in chemistry, and some special training in the examination of foods is almost as necessary. Again, most of the apparatus and chemicals necessary are entirely beyond the reach of the home, and the time consumed by the ordinary examination of a food is in itself prohibitive.
Yet there are some simple tests which serve to point out certain forms of adulteration and can be employed by the careful housewife with the reagents in her medicine closet and the apparatus in her kitchen. The number may be greatly extended by the purchase of a very few articles that may be procured for a few cents at any drug store. In applying these tests, one general rule must always be kept carefully in mind. Every one, whether layman or chemist, must familiarize himself with a reaction before drawing any conclusions from it. For instance, before testing a sample of supposed coffee for starch, the method should be applied to a sample of pure coffee (which can always be procured unground) and to a mixture of pure coffee and starch prepared by the operator.
Many manufacturers and dealers in foods have the ordinary senses so highly developed that by their aid alone they can form an intelligent opinion of the nature of a product, or of the character, and sometimes even of the proportion of adulterants present. This is especially true of such articles as coffee, wine, salad oils, flavoring extracts, butter, and milk. The housewife finds herself constantly submitting her purchases to this test. Her broad experience develops her senses of taste and smell to a high degree, and her discrimination is often sharper and more accurate than she herself realizes. The manufacturer who has developed his natural senses most {349} highly appreciates best the assistance or collaboration of the chemist, who can often come to his relief when his own powers do not avail. So the housewife, by a few simple chemical tests, can broaden her field of vision and detect many impurities that are not evident to the senses.
There are here given methods adapted to this purpose, which may be applied to milk, butter, coffee, spices, olive oil, vinegar, jams and jellies, and flavoring extracts. In addition to this some general methods for the detection of coloring matter and preservatives will be given. All of the tests here described may be performed with utensils found in any well-appointed kitchen. It will be convenient, however, to secure a small glass funnel, about 3 inches in diameter, since filtration is directed in a number of the methods prescribed. Filter paper can best be prepared for the funnel by cutting a circular piece about the proper size and folding it once through the middle, and then again at right angles to the first fold. The paper may then be opened without unfolding in such a way that three thicknesses lie together on one side and only one thickness on the other. In this way the paper may be made to fit nicely into the funnel.
Some additional apparatus, such as test tubes, racks for supporting them, and glass rods, will be found more convenient for one who desires to do considerable work on this subject, but can be dispensed with. The most convenient size for test tubes is a diameter of from 1/2 to 5/8 inch, and a length of from 5 to 6 inches. A graduated cylinder will also be found very convenient. If this is graduated according to the metric system, a cylinder containing about 100 cubic centimeters will be found to be convenient; if the English liquid measure is used it may be graduated to from 3 to 8 ounces.
«Chemical Reagents.»—The word “reagent” is applied to “any substance used to effect chemical change in another substance for the purpose of identifying its component parts or determining its percentage composition.” The following reagents are required in the methods here given:
Turmeric paper.
Iron alum (crystal or powdered form).
Hydrochloric acid† (muriatic acid), concentrated.
Iodine tincture.
Potassium permanganate, 1 per cent solution.
Alcohol (grain alcohol).
Chloroform.
Boric acid or borax.
Ammonia water.
Halphen’s reagent.
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† Caution.—All tests in which hydrochloric acid is used should be conducted in glass or earthenware, for this acid attacks and will injure metal vessels. Care must also be taken not to bring it into contact with the flesh or clothes. If, by accident, a drop of it falls upon the clothes, ammonia, or in its absence a solution of saleratus or sal soda (washing soda), in water, should be applied promptly.
With the exception of the last reagent mentioned, these substances may be obtained in any pharmacy. The Halphen reagent should be prepared by a druggist, certainly not by an inexperienced person.
It is prepared as follows: An approximately 1 per cent solution of sulphur is made by dissolving about 1/3 of a teaspoonful of precipitated sulphur in 3 or 4 ounces of carbon bisulphide. This solution mixed with an equal volume of amyl alcohol forms the reagent required by the method. A smaller quantity than that indicated by these directions may, of course, be prepared.
If turmeric paper be not available it may be made as follows: Place a bit of turmeric powder (obtainable at any drug store) in alcohol, allow it to stand for a few minutes, stir, allow it to stand again until it settles, dip a strip of filter paper into the solution, and dry it.
«Determination of Preservatives.»—The following methods cover all of the more important commercial preservatives with the exception of sulphites and fluorides. These are quite frequently used for preserving foods—the former with meat products and the latter with fruit products—but, unfortunately, the methods for their detection are not suitable for household use.
«Detection of Salicylic Acid.»—The determination of salicylic acid can best be made with liquids. Solid and semi-solid foods, such as jelly, should be dissolved, when soluble, in sufficient water to make them thinly liquid. Foods containing insoluble matter, such as jam, marmalade, and sausage, may be macerated with water and strained through a piece of white cotton cloth. The maceration may be performed by rubbing in a teacup or other convenient vessel with a heavy spoon.
Salicylic acid is used for preserving {350} fruit products of all kinds, including beverages. It is frequently sold by drug stores as fruit acid. Preserving powders consisting entirely of salicylic acid are often carried from house to house by agents. It may be detected as follows:
Between 2 and 3 ounces of the liquid obtained from the fruit products, as described above, are placed in a narrow bottle holding 5 ounces, about a quarter of a teaspoonful of cream of tartar (or, better, a few drops of sulphuric acid) is added, the mixture shaken for 2 or 3 minutes, and filtered into a second small bottle. Three or 4 tablespoonfuls of chloroform are added to the clear liquid in the second bottle and the liquids mixed by a somewhat vigorous rotary motion, poured into an ordinary glass tumbler, and allowed to stand till the chloroform settles out in the bottom. Shaking is avoided, as it causes an emulsion which is difficult to break up. As much as possible of the chloroform layer (which now contains the salicylic acid) is removed (without any admixture of the aqueous liquid) by means of a medicine dropper and placed in a test tube or small bottle with about an equal amount of water and a small fragment—a little larger than a pinhead—of iron alum. The mixture is thoroughly shaken and allowed to stand till the chloroform again settles to the bottom. The presence of salicylic acid is then indicated by the purple color of the upper layer of liquid.
«Detection of Benzoic Acid.»—Benzoic acid is also used for preserving fruit products. Extract the sample with chloroform as in the case of salicylic acid; remove the chloroform layer and place it in a white saucer, or, better, in a plain glass sauce dish. Set a basin of water—as warm as the hand can bear—on the outside window ledge and place the dish containing the chloroform extract in it, closing the window until the chloroform has completely evaporated. In this manner the operation may be conducted with safety even by one who is not accustomed to handling chloroform. In warm weather the vessel of warm water may, of course, be omitted. Benzoic acid, if present in considerable amount, will now appear in the dish in characteristic flat crystals. On warming the dish the unmistakable irritating odor of benzoic acid may be obtained. This method will detect benzoic acid in tomato catsup or other articles in which it is used in large quantities. It is not sufficiently delicate, however, for the smaller amount used with some articles, such as wine. It is often convenient to extract a larger quantity of the sample and divide the chloroform layer into two portions, testing one for salicylic acid and the other for benzoic acid.
«Detection of Boric Acid and Borax.»—Boric acid (also called boracic acid) and its compound with sodium (borax) are often used to preserve animal products, such as sausage, butter, and sometimes milk. For the detection of boric acid and borax, solids should be macerated with a small amount of water and strained through a white cotton cloth. The liquid obtained by treating solids in this manner is clarified somewhat by thoroughly chilling and filtering through filter paper.
In testing butter place a heaping teaspoonful of the sample in a teacup, add a couple of teaspoonfuls of hot water, and stand the cup in a vessel containing a little hot water until the butter is thoroughly melted. Mix the contents of the cup well by stirring with a teaspoon and set the cup with the spoon in it in a cold place until the butter is solid. The spoon with the butter (which adheres to it) is now removed from the cup and the turbid liquid remaining strained through a white cotton cloth, or, better, through filter paper. The liquid will not all pass through the cloth or filter paper, but a sufficient amount for the test may be secured readily.
In testing milk for boric acid 2 or 3 tablespoonfuls of milk are placed in a bottle with twice that amount of a solution of a teaspoonful of alum in a pint of water, shaken vigorously, and filtered through filter paper. Here again a clear or only slightly turbid liquid passes through the paper.
About a teaspoonful of the liquid obtained by any one of the methods mentioned above is placed in any dish, not metal, and 5 drops of hydrochloric (muriatic) acid added. A strip of turmeric paper is dipped into the liquid and then held in a warm place—near a stove or lamp—till dry. If boric acid or borax was present in the sample the turmeric paper becomes bright cherry red when dry. A drop of household ammonia changes the red color to dark green or greenish black. If too much hydrochloric acid is used the turmeric paper may take on a brownish-red color even in the absence of boric acid. In this case, however, ammonia changes the color to brown just as it does turmeric paper which has not been dipped into the acid solution. {351}
«Detection of Formaldehyde.»—Formaldehyde is rarely used with other foods than milk. The method for its detection in milk is given later. For its detection in other foods it is usually necessary first to separate it by distillation, a process which is scarcely available for the average person without laboratory training and special apparatus. For this reason no method is suggested here for the detection of formaldehyde in other foods than milk.
«Detection of Saccharine.»—Saccharine has a certain preservative power, but it is used not so much for this effect as because of the very sweet taste which it imparts. It is extracted by means of chloroform, as described under the detection of salicylic acid. In the case of solid and semi-solid foods, the sample must, of course, be prepared by extraction with water, as described under salicylic acid. The residue left after the evaporation of the chloroform, if a considerable amount of saccharine is present, has a distinctly sweet taste.
* * * * *
The only other substance having a sweet taste which may be present in foods, i. e., sugar, is not soluble in chloroform, and therefore does not interfere with this reaction. Certain other bodies (tannins) which have an astringent taste are present, and as they are soluble in chloroform may sometimes mask the test for saccharine, but with practice this difficulty is obviated.
«Determination of Artificial Colors: Detection of Coal-Tar Dyes.»—Coloring matters used with foods are usually soluble in water. If the food under examination be a liquid, it may therefore be treated directly by the method given below. If it be a solid or a pasty substance, soluble in water either in the cold or after heating, it may be dissolved in sufficient water to form a thin liquid. If it contains some insoluble material, it may be treated with sufficient water to dissolve the soluble portion with the formation of a thin liquid and filtered, and then strained through a clean white cotton cloth to separate the insoluble portion. About a half teacupful of the liquid thus described is heated to boiling, after adding a few drops of hydrochloric acid and a small piece of white woolen cloth or a few strands of white woolen yarn. (Before using, the wool should be boiled with water containing a little soda, to remove any fat it may contain, and then washed with water.) The wool is again washed, first with hot and then with cold water, the water pressed out as completely as possible, and the color of the fabric noted. If no marked color is produced, the test may be discontinued and the product considered free from artificial colors. If the fabric is colored, it may have taken up coal-tar colors, some foreign vegetable colors, and if a fruit product is being examined, some of the natural coloring matter of the fruit. Rinse the fabric in hot water, and then boil for 2 or 3 minutes in about one-third of a teacupful of water and 2 or 3 teaspoonfuls of household ammonia. Remove and free from as much of the liquid as possible by squeezing or wringing. Usually the fabric will retain the greater part of the natural fruit color, while the coal-tar color dissolves in dilute ammonia. The liquid is then stirred with a splinter of wood and hydrochloric acid added, a drop or two at a time, until there is no longer any odor of ammonia. (The atmosphere of the vessel is sometimes charged with the ammonia for several minutes after it has all been driven out of the liquid; therefore one should blow into the dish to remove this air before deciding whether the ammonia odor has been removed or not.) When enough acid has been added the liquid has a sour taste, as may be determined by touching the splinter, used in stirring, to the tongue.
A fresh piece of white woolen cloth is boiled in this liquid and thoroughly washed. If this piece of cloth has a distinct color the food under examination is artificially colored. The color used may have been a coal-tar derivative, commonly called an aniline dye, or an artificial color chemically prepared from some vegetable color. If of the first class the dyed fabric is usually turned purple or blue by ammonia. In either case, if the second fabric has a distinct color, it is evident that the product under examination is artificially colored. Of course a dull, faint tint must be disregarded.
«Detection of Copper.»—The presence of copper, often used to deepen the green tint of imported canned peas, beans, spinach, etc., may be detected as follows:
Mash some of the sample in a dish with a stiff kitchen spoon. Place a teaspoonful of the pulp in a teacup with 3 teaspoonfuls of water and add 30 drops of strong hydrochloric acid with a medicine dropper. Set the cup on the stove in a saucepan containing boiling water. Drop a bright iron brad or nail (wire nails are the best and tin carpet tacks {352} will not answer the purpose) into the cup and keep the water in the saucepan boiling for 20 minutes, stirring the contents of the cup frequently with a splinter of wood. Pour out the contents of the cup and examine the nail. If present in an appreciable amount the nail will be heavily plated with copper.
Caution.—Be careful not to allow the hydrochloric acid to come in contact with metals or with the flesh or clothing.
«Detection of Turmeric.»—In yellow spices, especially mustard and mace, turmeric is often employed. This is especially true of prepared mustard to which a sufficient amount of starch adulterant has been added to reduce the natural color materially. If turmeric be employed to restore the normal shade an indication of that fact may sometimes be obtained by mixing a half teaspoonful of the sample in a white china dish and mixing with it an equal amount of water, and a few drops (4 to 10) of household ammonia, when a marked brown color, which does not appear in the absence of turmeric, is formed. At the present time turmeric or a solution of curcuma (the coloring matter of turmeric) is sometimes added to adulterated mustard in sufficient amount to increase its color, but not to a sufficient extent to give the brown appearance with ammonia described above. In such cases a teaspoonful of the suspected sample may be thoroughly stirred with a couple of tablespoonfuls of alcohol, the mixture allowed to settle for 15 minutes or more, and the upper liquid poured off into a clean glass or bottle. To about 1 tablespoonful of the liquid thus prepared and placed in a small, clear dish (a glass salt cellar serves excellently) add 4 or 5 drops of a concentrated solution of boric acid or borax and about 10 drops of hydrochloric acid, and mix the solution by stirring with a splinter of wood. A wedge-shaped strip of filter paper, about 2 or 3 inches long, 1 inch wide at the upper end, and 1/4 inch at the lower end, is then suspended by pinning, so that its narrow end is immersed in the solution, and is allowed to stand for a couple of hours. The best results are obtained if the paper is so suspended that air can circulate freely around it, i. e., not allowing it to touch anything except the pin and the liquid in the dish. If turmeric be present a cherry-red color forms on the filter paper a short distance below the upper limit to which the liquid is absorbed by the paper, frequently from 3/4 of an inch to an inch above the surface of the liquid itself. A drop of household ammonia changes this red color to a dark green, almost black. If too much hydrochloric acid is used a dirty brownish color is produced.
«Detection of Caramel.»—A solution of caramel is used to color many substances, such as vinegar and some distilled liquors. To detect it two test tubes or small bottles of about equal size and shape should be employed and an equal amount (2 or 3 tablespoonfuls or more) of the suspected sample placed in each. To one of these bottles is added a teaspoonful of fuller’s earth, the sample shaken vigorously for 2 or 3 minutes, and then filtered through filter paper, the first portion of the filtered liquid being returned to the filter paper and the sample finally collected into the test tube or bottle in which it was originally placed, or a similar one. The filtered liquid is now compared with the untreated sample. If it is markedly lighter in color it may be taken for granted that the color of the liquid is due to caramel, which is largely removed by fuller’s earth. In applying this test, however, it must be borne in mind that caramel occurs naturally in malt vinegar, being formed in the preparation of the malt. It is evident that the tests require practice and experience before they can be successfully performed. The housewife can use them, but must repeat them frequently in order to become proficient in their use.
«EXAMINATION OF CERTAIN CLASSES OF FOODS:»
«Canned Vegetables.»—These are relatively free from adulteration by means of foreign substances. The different grades of products may with care be readily detected by the general appearance of the sample. The purchaser is, of course, at the disadvantage of not being able to see the product until the can is opened. By a study of the different brands available in the vicinity, however, he can readily select those which are preferable. As stated in an earlier part of this article, canned tomatoes sometimes contain an artificial coloring matter, which may be detected as described.
Canned sweet corn is sometimes sweetened with saccharine, which may be detected as described.
It is believed that, as a rule, canned vegetables are free from preservatives, although some instances of chemical preservation have recently been reported in North Dakota, and some imported {353} tomatoes have been found to be artificially preserved. The presence of copper, often used for the artificial greening of imported canned peas, beans, spinach, etc., may be detected as described.
«Coffee.»—There are a number of simple tests for the presence of the adulterants of ground coffee. These are called simple because they can be performed without the facilities of the chemical laboratory, and by one who has not had the experience and training of a chemist. It must be understood that they require careful observation and study, and that one must perform them repeatedly in order to obtain reliable results. Before applying them to the examination of an unknown sample, samples of known character should be secured and studied. Unground coffee may be ground in the home and mixed with various kinds of adulterants, which can also be secured separately. Thus the articles themselves in known mixtures may be studied, and when the same results are obtained with unknown samples they can be correctly interpreted. These tests are well known in the laboratory and may be used in the home of the careful housewife who has the time and perseverance to master them.
Physical Tests.—The difference between the genuine ground coffee and the adulterated article can often be detected by simple inspection with the naked eye. This is particularly true if the product be coarsely crushed rather than finely ground. In such condition pure coffee has a quite uniform appearance, whereas the mixtures of peas, beans, cereals, chicory, etc., often disclose their heterogeneous nature to the careful observer. This is particularly true if a magnifying glass be employed. The different articles composing the mixture may then be separated by the point of a pen-knife. The dark, gummy-looking chicory particles stand out in strong contrast to the other substances used, and their nature can be determined by one who is familiar with them by their astringent taste.
The appearance of the coffee particles is also quite distinct from that of many of the coffee substitutes employed. The coffee has a dull surface, whereas some of its substitutes, especially leguminous products, often present the appearance of having a polished surface.
After a careful inspection of the sample with the naked eye, or, better, with a magnifying glass, a portion of it may be placed in a small bottle half full of water and shaken. The bottle is then placed on the table for a moment. Pure coffee contains a large amount of oil, by reason of which the greater portion of the sample will float. All coffee substitutes and some particles of coffee sink to the bottom of the liquid. A fair idea of the purity of the sample can often be determined by the proportion of the sample which floats or sinks.
Chicory contains a substance which dissolves in water, imparting a brownish-red color. When the suspected sample is dropped into a glass of water, the grains of chicory which it contains may be seen slowly sinking to the bottom, leaving a train of a dark-brown colored liquid behind them. This test appears to lead to more errors in the hands of inexperienced operators than any other test here given. Wrong conclusions may be avoided by working first with known samples of coffee and chicory as suggested above.
Many coffee substitutes are now sold as such and are advertised as more wholesome than coffee. Notwithstanding the claims that are made for them, a few of them contain a considerable percentage of coffee. This may be determined by shaking a teaspoonful in a bottle half full of water, as described above. The bottle must be thoroughly shaken so as to wet every particle of the sample. Few particles of coffee substitutes will float.
Chemical Tests.—Coffee contains no starch, while all of the substances, except chicory, used for its adulteration and in the preparation of coffee substitutes contain a considerable amount of starch. The presence of such substitutes may, therefore, be detected by applying the test for starch. In making this test less than a quarter of a teaspoonful of ground coffee should be used, or a portion of the ordinary infusion prepared for the table may be employed after dilution. The amount of water that should be added can only be determined by experience.
«Condimental Sauces.»—Tomato catsup and other condimental sauces are frequently preserved and colored artificially. The preservatives employed are usually salicylic acid and benzoic acid or their sodium salts. These products may be detected by the methods given.
Coal-tar colors are frequently employed with this class of goods, especially with those of a reddish tint, like tomato catsup. They may be detected by the methods given. {354}
«DAIRY PRODUCTS:»
«Butter.»—Methods are available which, with a little practice, may be employed to distinguish between fresh butter, renovated or process butter, and oleomargarine.
These methods are commonly used in food and dairy laboratories. They give reliable results. At the same time considerable practice is necessary before we can interpret correctly the results obtained. Some process butters are on the market which can be distinguished from fresh butter only with extreme difficulty. During the last few years considerable progress has been made in the attempt to renovate butter in such a way that it will appear like fresh butter in all respects. A study must be made of these methods if we would obtain reliable results.
The “spoon” test has been suggested as a household test, and is commonly used by analytical chemists for distinguishing fresh butter from renovated butter and oleomargarine. A lump of butter, 2 or 3 times the size of a pea, is placed in a large spoon and heated over an alcohol or Bunsen burner. If more convenient the spoon may be held above the chimney of an ordinary kerosene lamp, or it may even be held over an ordinary illuminating gas burner. If the sample in question be fresh butter it will boil quietly, with the evolution of many small bubbles throughout the mass which produce a large amount of foam. Oleomargarine and process butter, on the other hand, sputter and crackle, making a noise similar to that heard when a green stick is placed in a fire. Another point of distinction is noted if a small portion of the sample be placed in a small bottle and set in a vessel of water sufficiently warm to melt the butter. The sample is kept melted from half an hour to an hour, when it is examined. If renovated butter or oleomargarine, the fat will be turbid, while if genuine fresh butter the fat will almost certainly be entirely clear.
To manipulate what is known as the “Waterhouse” or “milk” test, about 2 ounces of sweet milk are placed in a wide-mouthed bottle, which is set in a vessel of boiling water. When the milk is thoroughly heated, a teaspoonful of butter is added, and the mixture stirred with a splinter of wood until the fat is melted. The bottle is then placed in a dish of ice water and the stirring continued until the fat solidifies. If the sample be butter, either fresh or renovated, it will be solidified in a granular condition and distributed through the milk in small
## particles. If, on the other hand, the sample consist of oleomargarine
it solidifies practically in one piece and may be lifted by the stirrer from the milk.
By these two tests, the first of which distinguishes fresh butter from process or renovated butter and oleomargarine, and the second of which distinguishes oleomargarine from either fresh butter or renovated butter, the nature of the sample under examination may be determined.
«Milk.»—The oldest and simplest method of adulterating milk is by dilution with water. This destroys the natural yellowish-white color and produces a bluish tint, which is sometimes corrected by the addition of a small amount of coloring matter.
Another form of adulteration is the removal of the cream and the sale as whole milk of skimmed or partially skimmed milk. Again, the difficulty experienced in the preservation of milk in warm weather has led to the widespread use of chemical preservatives.
_Detection of Water._—If a lactometer or hydrometer, which can be obtained of dealers in chemical apparatus, be available, the specific gravity of milk will afford some clew as to whether the sample has been adulterated by dilution with water. Whole milk has a specific gravity between 1.027 and 1.033. The specific gravity of skimmed milk is higher, and milk very rich in cream is sometimes lower than these figures. It is understood, of course, that by specific gravity is meant the weight of a substance with reference to the weight of an equal volume of water. The specific gravity of water is 1. It is obvious that if water be added to a milk with the specific gravity of 1.030, the specific gravity of the mixture will be somewhat below those figures.
An indication by means of a hydrometer or lactometer below the figure 1.027 therefore indicates either that the sample in question is a very rich milk or that it is a milk (perhaps normal, perhaps skimmed) that has been watered. The difference in appearance and nature of these two extremes is sufficiently obvious to make use of the lactometer or hydrometer of value as a preliminary test of the purity of milk.
_Detection of Color._—As previously stated, when milk is diluted by means of water the natural yellowish-white color is changed to a bluish tint, which is sometimes corrected by the addition {355} of coloring matter. Coal-tar colors are usually employed for this purpose. A reaction for these colors is often obtained in the method given below for the detection of formaldehyde. When strong hydrochloric acid is added to the milk in approximately equal proportions before the mixture is heated a pink tinge sometimes is evident if a coal-tar color has been added.
_Detection of Formaldehyde._—Formaldehyde is the substance most commonly used for preserving milk and is rarely, if ever, added to any other food. Its use is inexcusable and especially objectionable in milk served to infants and invalids.
To detect formaldehyde in milk 3 or 4 tablespoonfuls of the sample are placed in a teacup with at least an equal amount of strong hydrochloric acid and a piece of ferric alum about as large as a pinhead, the liquids being mixed by a gentle rotary motion. The cup is then placed in a vessel of boiling water, no further heat being applied, and left for 5 minutes. At the end of this time, if formaldehyde be present, the mixture will be distinctly purple. If too much heat is applied, a muddy appearance is imparted to the contents of the cup.
_Caution._—Great care must be exercised in working with hydrochloric acid, as it is strongly corrosive.
«Edible Oils.»—With the exception of cottonseed oil, the adulterants ordinarily used with edible oils are of such a nature that the experience of a chemist and the facilities of a chemical laboratory are essential to their detection. There is, however, a simple test for the detection of cottonseed oil, known as the Halphen test, which may be readily applied.
Great care must be taken in the manipulation of this test, as one of the reagents employed—carbon bisulphide—is very inflammable. The chemicals employed in the preparation of the reagent used for this test are not household articles. They may, however, be obtained in any pharmacy. The mixture should be prepared by a druggist rather than by an inexperienced person who desires to use it.
In order to perform the test 2 or 3 tablespoonfuls of this reagent are mixed in a bottle with an equal volume of the suspected sample of oil and heated in a vessel of boiling salt solution (prepared by dissolving 1 tablespoonful of salt in a pint of water) for 10 or 15 minutes. At the end of that time, if even a small percentage of cottonseed oil be present, the mixture will be of a distinct reddish color, and if the sample consists largely or entirely of cottonseed oil, the color will be deep red.
«Eggs.»—There is no better method for the testing of the freshness of an egg than the familiar one of “candling,” which has long been practiced by dealers. The room is darkened and the egg held between the eye and a light; the presence of dark spots indicates that the egg is not perfectly fresh, one that is fresh presenting a homogeneous, translucent appearance. Moreover, there is found in the larger end of a fresh egg, between the shell and the lining membrane, a small air cell which, of course, is distinctly transparent. In an egg which is not perfectly fresh this space is filled and hence presents the same appearance as the rest of the egg.
It is now a matter of considerable importance to be able to distinguish between fresh eggs and those that have been packed for a considerable time. Until recently that was not a difficult matter. All of the solutions that were formerly extensively used for that purpose gave the shell a smooth, glistening appearance which is not found in the fresh egg. This characteristic, however, is of less value now than formerly, owing to the fact that packed eggs are usually preserved in cold storage. There is now no means by which a fresh egg can be distinguished from a packed egg without breaking it. Usually in eggs that have been packed for a considerable time the white and yolk slightly intermingle along the point of contact, and it is a difficult matter to separate them. Packed eggs also have a tendency to adhere to the shell on one side and when opened frequently have a musty odor.
«FLAVORING EXTRACTS.»
Although a large number of flavoring extracts are on the market, vanilla and lemon extracts are used so much more commonly than other flavors that a knowledge of their purity is of the greatest importance. Only methods for the examination of those two products will be considered.
«Vanilla Extract.»—Vanilla extract is made by extracting vanilla beans with alcohol. It consists of an alcoholic solution of vanillin (the characteristic flavoring matter of the vanilla bean) and several other products, chiefly rosins, which, though present in but small amount and having only a slight flavor in themselves, yet affect very materially {356} the flavor of the product. Vanilla extract is sometimes adulterated with the extract of the Tonka bean. This extract, to a certain extent, resembles vanilla extract. The extract of the Tonka bean, however, is far inferior to that of the vanilla bean. It has a relatively penetrating, almost pungent odor, standing in sharp contrast to the flavor of the vanilla extract. This odor is so different that one who has given the matter some attention may readily distinguish the two, and the quality of the vanilla extract may often be judged with a fair degree of accuracy by means of the odor alone.
Another form of adulteration, and one that is now quite prevalent, is the use of artificial vanillin in place of the extract of either vanilla or Tonka beans. Artificial vanillin has, of course, the same composition and characteristics as the natural vanillin of the vanilla bean. Extracts made from it, however, are deficient in the rosins and other products which are just as essential to the true vanilla, as is vanillin itself. Since vanillin is thus obtained from another source so readily, methods for the determination of the purity of vanilla extract must depend upon the presence of other substances than vanillin.
_Detection of Caramel._—The coloring matter of vanilla extract is due to substances naturally present in the vanilla bean and extracted therefrom by alcohol. Artificial extracts made by dissolving artificial vanillin in alcohol contain no color of themselves, and to supply it caramel is commonly employed. Caramel may be detected in artificial extracts by shaking and observing the color of the resulting foam after a moment’s standing. The foam of pure extracts is colorless. If caramel is present a color persists at the points of contact between the bubbles until the last bubble has disappeared. The test with fuller’s earth given for caramel in vinegar is also very satisfactory, but of course requires the loss of the sample used for the test.
_Examination of the Rosin._—If pure vanilla extract be evaporated to about one-third its volume the rosins become insoluble and settle to the bottom of the dish. Artificial extracts remain clear under the same conditions. In examining vanilla extract the character of these rosins is studied. For this purpose a dish containing about an ounce of the extract is placed on a teakettle or other vessel of boiling water until the liquid evaporates to about one-third or less of its volume. Owing to the evaporation of the alcohol the rosins will then be insoluble. Water may be added to restore the liquid to approximately its original volume. The rosin will then separate out as a brown flocculent precipitate. A few drops of hydrochloric acid may be added and the liquid stirred and the insoluble matter allowed to settle. It is then filtered and the rosin on the filter paper washed with water. The rosin is then dissolved in a little alcohol, and to 1 portion of this solution is added a small particle of ferric alum, and to another portion a few drops of hydrochloric acid, If the rosin be that of the vanilla bean, neither ferric alum nor hydrochloric acid will produce more than a slight change of color. With rosins from most other sources, however, one or both of these substances yield a distinct color change.
For filtering, a piece of filter paper should be folded once through the middle and again at right angles to the first fold. It may now be opened with one fold on one side and three on the other and fitted into a glass funnel. When the paper is folded in this manner the precipitated rosins may be readily washed with water. When the washing is completed the rosins may be dissolved by pouring alcohol through the filter. This work with the rosins will require some practice before it can be successfully performed. It is of considerable value, however, in judging of the purity of vanilla extract.
«Lemon Extract.»—By lemon extract is understood a solution of lemon oil in strong alcohol. In order to contain as much lemon oil as is supposed to be found in high-grade extracts the alcohol should constitute about 80 per cent of the sample. The alcohol is therefore the most valuable constituent of lemon extract, and manufacturers who turn out a low-grade product usually do so because of their economy of alcohol rather than of lemon oil. Owing to the fact that lemon extract is practically a saturated solution of oil of lemon in strong alcohol the sample may be examined by simple dilution with water. A teaspoonful of the oil in question may be placed in the bottom of an ordinary glass tumbler and 2 or 3 teaspoonfuls of water added. If the sample in question be real lemon extract the lemon oil should be thrown out of solution by reason of its insolubility in the alcohol after its dilution with water. The result is at first a marked turbidity and later the separation of the oil of lemon on the top {357} of the aqueous liquid. If the sample remains perfectly clear after the addition of water, or if a marked turbidity is not produced, it is a low-grade product and contains very little, if any, oil of lemon.
«Fruit Products.»—Adulteration of fruit products is practically confined to jellies and jams. Contrary to the general belief, gelatin is never used in making fruit jelly. In the manufacture of the very cheapest grade of jellies starch is sometimes employed. Jellies containing starch, however, are so crude in their appearance that the most superficial inspection is sufficient to demonstrate that they are not pure fruit jellies. From their appearance no one would think it worth while to examine them to determine their purity.
Natural fruit jellies become liquid on being warmed. A spoonful dissolves readily in warm water, although considerable time is required with those that are especially firm. The small fruits contain practically no starch, as apples do, and the presence of starch in a jelly indicates that some apple juice has probably been used in its preparation.
_Detection of Starch._—Dissolve a teaspoonful of jelly in a half teacupful of hot water, heat to boiling and add, drop by drop, while stirring with a teaspoon, a solution of potassium permanganate until the solution is almost colorless. Then allow the solution to cool and test for starch with tincture of iodine, as directed later. Artificially colored jellies are sometimes not decolorized by potassium permanganate. Even without decolorizing, however, the blue color can usually be seen.
_Detection of Glucose._—For the detection of glucose, a teaspoonful of the jelly may be dissolved in a glass tumbler or bottle in 2 or 3 tablespoonfuls of water. The vessel in which the jelly is dissolved may be placed in hot water if necessary to hasten the solution. In case a jam or marmalade is being examined, the mixture is filtered to separate the insoluble matter. The solution is allowed to cool, and an equal volume or a little more of strong alcohol is added. If the sample is a pure fruit product the addition of alcohol causes no precipitation, except that a very slight amount of proteid bodies is thrown down. If glucose has been employed in its manufacture, however, a dense white precipitate separates and, after a time, settles to the bottom of the liquid.
_Detection of Foreign Seeds._—In addition to the forms of adulteration to which jellies are subject, jams are sometimes manufactured from the exhausted fruit pulp left after removing the juice for making jelly. When this is done residues from different fruits are sometimes mixed. Exhausted raspberry or blackberry pulp may be used in making “strawberry” jam and _vice versa_. Some instances are reported of various small seeds, such as timothy, clover, and alfalfa seed, having been used with jams made from seedless pulp.
With the aid of a small magnifying glass such forms of adulteration may be detected, the observer familiarizing himself with the seeds of the ordinary fruits.
_Detection of Preservatives and Colors._—With jellies and jams salicylic and benzoic acids are sometimes employed. They may be detected by the methods given.
Artificial colors, usually coal-tar derivatives, are sometimes used and may be detected as described.
«Meat Products.»—As in many other classes of foods, certain questions important in the judgment of meats require practical experience and close observation rather than chemical training. This is especially true of meat products. The general appearance of the meat must largely guide the purchaser. If, however, the meat has been treated with preservatives and coloring matter its appearance is so changed as to deceive him. The preservatives employed with meat products are boric acid, borax, and sulphites. The methods for the detection of sulphites are not suitable for household use.
_Detection of Boric Acid and Borax._—To detect boric acid (if borax has been used the same reaction will be obtained), about a tablespoonful of the chopped meat is thoroughly macerated with a little hot water, pressed through a bag, and 2 or 3 tablespoonfuls of the liquid placed in a sauce dish with 15 or 20 drops of strong hydrochloric acid for each tablespoonful. The liquid is then filtered through filter paper, and a piece of turmeric paper dipped into it and dried near a lamp or stove. If boric acid or borax were used for preserving the sample, the turmeric paper should be changed to a bright cherry-red color. If too much hydrochloric acid has been employed a dirty brownish-red color is obtained, which interferes with the color due to the presence of {358} boric acid. When a drop of household ammonia is added to the colored turmeric paper, it is turned a dark green, almost black color, if boric acid is present. If the reddish color, however, was caused by the use of too much hydrochloric acid this green color does not form.
_Caution._—The corrosive nature of hydrochloric acid must not be forgotten. It must not be allowed to touch the flesh, clothes, or any metal.
_Detection of Colors._—The detection of coloring matter in sausage is often a difficult matter without the use of a compound microscope. It may sometimes be separated, however, by macerating the meat with a mixture of equal parts of glycerine and water to which a few drops of acetic or hydrochloric acid have been added. After macerating for some time the mixture is filtered and the coloring matter detected by means of dyeing wool in the liquid thus obtained.
«Spices.»—Although ground spices are very frequently adulterated, there are few methods that may be used by one who has not had chemical training, and who is not skilled in the use of a compound microscope, for the detection of the adulterants employed. The majority of the substances used for the adulteration of spices are of a starchy character. Unfortunately for our purposes, most of the common spices also contain a considerable amount of starch. Cloves, mustard, and cayenne, however, are practically free from starch, and the presence of starch in the ground article is proof of adulteration.
_Detection of Starch in Cloves, Mustard, and Cayenne._—A half teaspoonful of the spice in question is stirred into half a cupful of boiling water, and the boiling continued for 2 or 3 minutes. The mixture is then cooled. If of a dark color, it is diluted with a sufficient amount of water to reduce the color to such an extent that the reaction formed by starch and iodine may be clearly apparent if starch be present. The amount of dilution can only be determined by practice, but usually the liquid must be diluted with an equal volume of water, or only 1/4 of a teaspoonful of the sample may be employed originally. A single drop of tincture of iodine is now added. If starch is present, a deep blue color, which in the presence of a large amount of starch appears black, is formed. If no blue color appears, the addition of the iodine tincture should be continued, drop by drop, until the liquid shows by its color the presence of iodine in solution.
_Detection of Colors._—Spice substitutes are sometimes colored with coal-tar colors. These products may be detected by the methods given.
«Vinegar.»—A person thoroughly familiar with vinegar can tell much regarding the source of the article from its appearance, color, odor, and taste.
If a glass be rinsed out with the sample of vinegar and allowed to stand for a number of hours or overnight, the odor of the residue remaining in the glass is quite different with different kinds of vinegar. Thus, wine vinegar has the odor characteristic of wine, and cider vinegar has a peculiar fruity odor. A small amount of practice with this test enables one to distinguish with a high degree of accuracy between wine and cider vinegars and the ordinary substitutes.
If a sample of vinegar be placed in a shallow dish on a warm stove or boiling teakettle and heated to a temperature sufficient for evaporation and not sufficient to burn the residue, the odor of the warm residue is also characteristic of the different kinds of vinegar. Thus, the residue from cider vinegar has the odor of baked apples and the flavor is acid and somewhat astringent in taste, and that from wine vinegar is equally characteristic. The residue obtained by evaporating vinegar made from sugar-house products and from spirit and wood vinegar colored by means of caramel has the peculiar bitter taste characteristic of caramel.
If the residue be heated until it begins to burn, the odor of the burning product also varies with different kinds of vinegar. Thus, the residue from cider vinegar has the odor of scorched apples, while that of vinegars made from sugar-house wastes and of distilled and wood vinegars colored with a large amount of caramel has the odor of burnt sugar. In noting these characteristics, however, it must be borne in mind that, in order to make them conform to these tests, distilled and wood vinegars often receive the addition of apple jelly.
The cheaper forms of vinegar, especially distilled and wood vinegar, are commonly colored with caramel, which can be detected by the method given.
«FOOD COLORANTS.»
(Most, if not all, of these colorants are injurious and should therefore be used with extreme caution.)
«Sausage Color.»—To dye sausage red, certain tar dyestuffs are employed, {359} especially the azo dyes, preference being given to the so-called genuine red. For this purpose about 100 parts of dyestuff are dissolved in 1,000 to 2,000 parts of hot water; when the solution is complete, add a likewise hot solution of 45 to 50 parts of boracic acid, whereupon the mixture should be stirred well for some time; then filter, allow to cool, and preserve in tightly closing bottles. It is absolutely necessary in using aniline colors to add a disinfectant to the dyestuff solution, the object of which is, in case the sausage should commence to decompose, to prevent the decomposition azo dyestuff by the disengaged hydrogen. Instead of boracic acid, formalin may be used as a disinfectant. Of this formalin, 38 per cent, add about 25 to 30 parts to the cooled and filtered dyestuff solution. This sausage color is used by adding about 1 1/2 to 2 tablespoonfuls of it to the preserving salt measured out for 100 kilos of sausage mass, stirring well. The sausage turns neither gray nor yellow on storing.
«Cheese Color.»—I.—To produce a suitable, pretty yellow color, boil 100 parts of orlean or annatto with 75 parts of potassium carbonate in 1 1/2 to 2 liters of water, allow to cool, and filter after settling, whereupon 15 to 18 parts of boracic acid are added to give keeping qualities to the solution. According to another method, digest about 200 parts of orlean, 200 parts of potassium carbonate, and 100 parts of turmeric for 10 to 12 days in 1,500 to 2,000 parts of 60 per cent alcohol, filter, and keep in bottles. To 100,000 parts of milk to be made into cheese add 1 1/2 to 2 small spoonfuls of this dye, which imparts to the cheese a permanent and natural yellow appearance.
II.—To obtain a handsome yellow color for cheese, such as is demanded for certain sorts, boil together 100 parts of annatto and 75 parts of potassium carbonate in from 1,500 to 2,000 parts of pure water; let it cool, stand it aside for a time, and filter, adding finally from 12 to 15 parts of boracic acid as a preservative. For coloring butter, there is in the trade a mixture of bicarbonate of soda with 12 per cent to 15 per cent of sodium chloride, to which is added from 1 1/2 per cent to 2 per cent of powdered turmeric.
«Butter Color.»—For the coloring of butter there is in the market under the name of butter powder a mixture of sodium bicarbonate with 12 to 15 per cent of sodium chloride and 1 1/2 to 2 per cent of powdered turmeric; also a mixture of sodium bicarbonate, 1,500 parts; saffron surrogate, 8 parts; and salicylic acid, 2 parts. For the preparation of liquid butter color use a uniform solution of olive oil, 1,500 parts; powdered turmeric, 300 parts; orlean, 200 parts. The orlean is applied on a plate of glass or tin in a thin layer and allowed to dry perfectly, whereupon it is ground very fine and intimately mixed with the powdered turmeric. This mixture is stirred into the oil with digestion for several hours in the water bath. When a uniform, liquid mass has resulted, it is filtered hot through a linen filter with wide meshes. After cooling, the filtrate is filled into bottles. Fifty to 60 drops of this liquid color to 1 1/2 kilos of butter impart to the latter a handsome golden yellow shade.
«INFANT FOODS:»
Infants’ (Malted) Food.—
I.—Powdered malt 1 ounce Oatmeal (finest ground) 2 ounces Sugar of milk 4 ounces Baked flour 1 pound
Mix thoroughly.
II.—Infantine is a German infant food which is stated to contain egg albumen, 5.5 per cent; fat, 0.08 per cent; water, 4.22 per cent; carbohydrates, 86.58 per cent (of which 54.08 per cent is soluble in water); and ash, 2.81 per cent (consisting of calcium, 10.11 per cent; potassium, 2.64 per cent; sodium, 25.27 per cent; chlorine, 36.65 per cent; sulphuric acid, 3.13 per cent; and phosphoric acid, 18.51 per cent).
«MEAT PRESERVATIVES.»
(Most of these are considered injurious by the United States Department of Agriculture and should therefore be used with extreme caution.)
«The Preservation of Meats.»—Decomposition of the meat sets in as soon as the blood ceases to pulse in the veins, and it is therefore necessary to properly preserve it until the time of its consumption.
The nature of preservation must be governed by circumstances such as the kind and quality of the article to be preserved, length of time and climatic condition, etc. While salt, vinegar, and alcohol merit recognition on the strength of a long-continued usage as preservatives, modern usage favors boric acid and borax, and solutions containing salicylic acid and sulphuric acid are common, {360} and have been the subject of severe criticism.
Many other methods of preservation have been tried with variable degrees of success; and of the more thoroughly tested ones the following probably include all of those deserving more than passing mention or consideration.
1. The exclusion of external, atmospheric electricity, which has been observed to materially reduce the decaying of meat, milk, butter, beer, etc.
2. The retention of occluded electric currents. Meats from various animals packed into the same packages, and surrounded by a conducting medium, such as salt and water, liberate electricity.
3. The removal of the nerve centers. Carcasses with the brains and spinal cord left therein will be found more prone to decomposition than those wherefrom these organs have been removed.
4. Desiccation. Dried beef is an excellent example of this method of preservation. Other methods coming under this heading are the application of spices with ethereal oils, various herbs, coriander seed extracted with vinegar, etc.
5. Reduction of temperature, i. e., cold storage.
6. Expulsion of air from the meat and the containers. Appert’s, Willaumez’s, Redwood’s, and Prof. A. Vogel’s methods are representative for this category of preservation. Phenyl paper, Dr. Busch’s, Georges’s, and Medlock and Baily’s processes are equally well known.
7. The application of gases. Here may be mentioned Dr. Gamgee’s and Bert and Reynoso’s processes, applying carbon dioxide and other compressed gases, respectively.
Air-drying, powdering of meat, smoking, pickling, sugar or vinegar curing are too well known to receive any further attention here. Whatever process may be employed, preference should be given to that which will secure the principal objects sought for, the most satisfactory being at the same time not deleterious to health, and of an easily applicable and inexpensive nature.
«To Preserve Beef, etc., in Hot Weather.»—Put the meat into a hot oven and let it remain until the surface is browned all over, thus coagulating the albumen of the surface and inclosing the body of the meat in an impermeable envelope of cooked flesh. Pour some melted lard or suet into a jar of sufficient size, and roll the latter around until the sides are evenly coated to the depth of half an inch with the material. Put in the meat, taking care that it does not touch the sides of the jar (thus scraping away the envelope of grease), and fill up with more suet or lard, being careful to completely cover and envelop the meat. Thus prepared, the meat will remain absolutely fresh for a long time, even in the hottest weather. When required for use the outer portion may be left on or removed. The same fat may be used over and over again by melting and retaining in the melted state a few moments each time, by which means not only all solid portions of the meat which have been retained fall to the bottom, but all septic microbes are destroyed.
«Meat Preservatives.»—I.—_Barmenite Corning Agent_: For every 100 parts, by weight, take 25.2 parts, by weight, of saltpeter; 46.8 parts, by weight, sodium chloride; 25.7 parts, by weight, cane sugar; 0.8 parts, by weight, plaster of Paris or gypsum; 0.1 part, by weight, of some moistening material, and a trace of magnesia.
II.—_Carniform, A_: For every 100 parts, by weight, take 3.5 parts, by weight, sodium diphosphate; 3.1 parts, by weight, water of crystallization; 68.4 parts, by weight, sodium chloride; 24.9 parts, by weight, saltpeter; together with traces of calcium phosphate, magnesia, and sulphuric acid.
III.—_Carniform, B_: For every 100 parts, by weight, take 22.6 parts, by weight, sodium diphosphate; 17.3 parts, by weight, water of crystallization; 59.7 parts, by weight, saltpeter; 0.6 parts, by weight, calcium phosphate; with traces of sulphuric acid and magnesia.
IV.—_“Cervelatwurst” (spice powder)_: For 100 parts, by weight, take 0.7 parts, by weight, of moistening; 3.5 parts, by weight, spices—mostly pepper; 89 parts, by weight, sodium chloride; 5 parts, by weight, saltpeter; 0.7 parts, by weight, gypsum; and traces of magnesia.
V.—_Cervelatwurst Salt_ (_spice powder_): For 100 parts, by weight, take 7.5 parts, by weight, spices—mostly pepper; 1.6 parts, by weight, moistener; 81.6 parts, by weight, sodium chloride; 2.5 parts, by weight, saltpeter; 6.2 parts, by weight, cane sugar; and traces of magnesia.
VI.—_Rubrolin Sausage_ (_spice powder_): For 100 parts by weight, take 53.5 parts, by weight, sal ammoniac, and 45.2 parts, by weight, of saltpeter.
VII.—_Servator Special Milk and Butter Preserving Salt_: 80.3 per cent of crystallized boracic acid; 10.7 per cent {361} sodium chloride; and 9.5 per cent of benzoic acid. (Its use is, however, prohibited in Germany.)
VIII.—_Wittenberg Pickling Salt_: For 100 parts, by weight, take 58.6 parts, by weight, sodium chloride; 40.5 parts, by weight, saltpeter; 0.5 parts, by weight, gypsum; traces of moisture and magnesia.
IX.—_Securo_: For a quart take 3.8 parts, by weight, aluminum oxide, and 8 parts, by weight, acetic acid; basic acetate of alumina, 62 parts, by weight; sulphuric acid, 0.8 parts, by weight; sodium oxide, with substantially traces of lime and magnesia.
X.—_Michels Cassala Salt_: This is partially disintegrated. 30.74 per cent sodium chloride; 15.4 per cent sodium phosphate; 23.3 per cent potassio-sodic tartrate; 16.9 per cent water of crystallization; 1.2 per cent aluminum oxide; and 2.1 per cent acetic acid as basic acetate of alumina; 8.4 per cent sugar; 0.98 per cent benzoic acid; 0.5 per cent sulphuric acid; and traces of lime.
XI.—_Corning Salt_: Sodium nitrate, 50 parts; powdered boracic acid, 45 parts; salicylic acid, 5 parts.
XII.—_Preservative Salt_: Potassium nitrate, 70 parts; sodium bicarbonate, 15 parts; sodium chloride, 15 parts.
XIII.—_Another Corning Salt_: Potassium nitrate, 50 parts; sodium chloride, 20 parts; powdered boracic acid, 20 parts; sugar, 10 parts.
XIV.—_Maciline_ (_offered as condiment and binding agent for sausages_): A mixture of wheat flour and potato flour dyed intensely yellow with an azo dyestuff and impregnated with oil of mace.
XV.—Borax 80 parts Boric acid 17 parts Sodium chloride 3 parts
Reduce the ingredients to a powder and mix thoroughly.
XVI.—Sodium sulphite, powdered 80 parts Sodium sulphate, powdered 20 parts
XVII.—Sodium chloride 80 parts Borax 8 parts Potassium nitrate 12 parts
Reduce to a powder and mix.
XVIII.—Sodium nitrate 50 parts Salicylic acid 5 parts Boric acid 45 parts
XIX.—Potassium nitrate 70 parts Sodium bicarbonate 15 parts Sodium chloride 15 parts
XX.—Potassium nitrate 50 parts Sodium chloride 20 parts Boric acid 20 parts Sugar 10 parts
«A German Method of Preserving Meat.»—Entire unboweled cattle or large, suitably severed pieces are sprinkled with acetic acid and then packed and transported in sawdust impregnated with cooking salt and sterilized.
«Extract of Meat Containing Albumen.»—In the ordinary production of meat extract, the albumen is more or less lost, partly through precipitation by the acids or the acid salts of the meat extract,
## partly through salting out by the salts of the extract, and partly
by coagulation at a higher temperature. A subsequent addition of albumen is impracticable because the albumen is likewise precipitated, insolubly, by the acids and salts contained in the extract. This precipitation can be prevented, according to a French patent, by neutralizing the extract before mixing with albumen, by the aid of sodium bicarbonate. The drying of the mixture is accomplished in a carbonic acid atmosphere. The preparation dissolves in cold or hot water into a white, milky liquid and exhibits the smell and taste of meat extract, if the albumen added was tasteless. The taste which the extract loses by the neutralization returns in its original strength after the mixture with albumen. In this manner a meat preparation is obtained which contains larger quantities of albumen and is more nutritious and palatable than other preparations.
«Foot-Powders and Solutions»
The following foot-powders have been recommended as dusting powders:
I.—Boric acid 2 ounces Zinc oleate 1 ounce Talcum 3 ounces
II.—Oleate of zinc (powdered) 1/2 ounce Boric acid 1 ounce French chalk 5 ounces Starch 1 1/2 ounces
{362}
III.—Dried alum 1 drachm Salicylic acid 1/2 drachm Wheat starch 4 drachms Powdered talc 1 1/2 ounces
IV.—Formaldehyde solution 1 part Thymol 1/10 part Zinc oxide 35 parts Powdered starch 65 parts
V.—Salicylic acid 7 drachms Boric acid 2 ounces, 440 grains Talcum 38 ounces Slippery elm bark 1 ounce Orris root 1 ounce
VI.—Talc 12 ounces Boric acid 10 ounces Zinc oleate 1 ounce Salicylic acid 1 ounce Oil of eucalyptus 2 drachms
VII.—Salicylic acid 7 drachms Boric acid 3 ounces Talcum 38 ounces Slippery elm, powdered 1 ounce Orris, powdered 1 ounce
«Salicylated Talcum.»—
I.—Salicylic acid 1 drachm Talcum 6 ounces Lycopodium 6 drachms Starch 3 ounces Zinc oxide 1 ounce Perfume, quantity sufficient.
II.—Tannoform 1 drachm Talcum 2 drachms Lycopodium 30 grains
Use as a dusting powder.
«Solutions for Perspiring Feet.»—
I.—Balsam Peru 15 minims Formic acid 1 drachm Chloral hydrate 1 drachm Alcohol to make 3 ounces.
Apply by means of absorbent cotton.
II.—Boric acid 15 grains Sodium borate 6 drachms Salicylic acid 6 drachms Glycerine 1 1/2 ounces Alcohol to make 3 ounces.
For local application.
FOOTSORES ON CATTLE: See Veterinary Formulas.
«FORMALDEHYDE:»
See also Disinfectants, Foods, and Milk.
«Commercial Formaldehyde.»—This extremely poisonous preservative is obtained by passing the vapors of wood spirit, in the presence of air, over copper heated to redness. The essential parts of the apparatus employed are a metal chamber into which a feed-tube enters, and from which 4 parallel copper tubes or oxidizers discharge by a common exit tube. This chamber is fitted with inspection apertures, through which the course of the process may be watched and controlled. The wood spirit, stored in a reservoir, falls into a mixer where it is volatilized and intimately mixed with air from a chamber which is connected with a force pump. The gases after traversing the oxidizer are led into a condensing coil, and the crude formaldehyde is discharged into the receiver beneath.
The small amount of uncondensed gas is then led through a series of two washers. The “formol” thus obtained is a mixture of water, methyl alcohol, and 30 to 40 per cent of formaldehyde. It is rectified in a still, by which the free methyl alcohol is removed and pure formol obtained, containing 40 per cent of formaldehyde, chiefly in the form of the acetal. Rectification must not be pushed too far, otherwise the formaldehyde may become polymerized into trioxmethylene. When once oxidation starts, the heat generated is sufficient to keep the oxidizers red hot, so that the process works practically automatically.
«Determination of the Presence of Formaldehyde in Solutions.»—Lemme makes use, for this purpose, of the fact that formaldehyde, in neutral solutions of sodium sulphite, forms normal bisulphite salts, setting free a corresponding quantity of sodium hydrate, that may be titrated with sulphuric acid and phenolphthalein. The sodium sulphite solution has an alkaline reaction toward phenolphthalein, and must be exactly neutralized with sodium bisulphite. Then to 100 cubic centimeters of this solution of 250 grams of sodium sulphite (Na_〈2〉SO_〈3〉 + 7 H_〈2〉O) in 750 grams water, add 5 cubic centimeters of the suspected formaldehyde solution. A strong red color is instantly produced. Titrate with normal sulphuric acid until the color disappears. As the exact disappearance of the color is not easily determined, a margin of from 0.1 to 0.2 cubic centimeters may be allowed without the exactness of the reaction being injured, since 1 cubic centimeter of normal acid answers to only 0.03 grams of formaldehyde.
FORMALIN FOR GRAIN SMUT: See Grain. {363}
«FRAMES: THEIR PROTECTION FROM FLIES.»
Since there is great risk of damaging the gilt when trying to remove flyspecks with spirits of wine, it has been found serviceable to cover gilding with a copal varnish. This hardens and will stand rough treatment, and may be renewed wherever removed.
FRAME CLEANING: See Cleaning Preparations and Methods.
FRAME POLISHES: See Polishes.
FRAMING, PASSE-PARTOUT: See Passe-Partout.
FRECKLE LOTIONS: See Cosmetics.
FREEZING MIXTURES: See also Refrigeration and Refrigerants.
«Freezing Preventives»
«Liquid for Cooling Automobile Engines.»—In order to prevent freezing of the jacket water, when the engine is not in operation in cold weather, solutions are used, notably of glycerine and of calcium chloride (CaCl_〈2〉). The proportions for the former solution are equal parts of water and glycerine, by weight; for the latter, approximately 1/2 gallon of water to 8 pounds of CaCl_〈2〉, or a saturated solution at 60° F. This solution (CaCl_〈2〉 + 6 H_〈2〉O) is then mixed with equal parts of water, gallon for gallon. Many persons complain that CaCl_〈2〉 corrodes the metal parts, but this warning need do no more than urge the automobilist to use only the chemically pure salt, carefully avoiding the “chloride of lime” (CaOCl_〈2〉).
A practical manufacturing chemist of wide experience gives this:
A saturated solution of common salt is one of the best things to use. It does not affect the metal of the engine, as many other salts would, and is easily renewed. It will remain fluid down to 0° F., or a little below.
Equal parts of glycerine and water is also good, and has the advantage that it will not crystallize in the chambers, or evaporate readily. It is the most convenient solution to use on this account, and may repay the increased cost over brine, in the comfort of its use. It needs only the occasional addition of a little water to make it last all winter and leave the machinery clean when it is drawn off. With brine an incrustation of salt as the water evaporates is bound to occur which reduces the efficiency of the solution until it is removed. Water frequently must be added to keep the original volume, and to hold the salt in solution. A solution of calcium chloride is less troublesome so far as crystallizing is concerned, but is said to have a tendency to corrode the metals.
«Anti-Freezing Solution for Automobilists.»—Mix and filter 4 1/2 pounds pure calcium chloride and a gallon of warm water and put the solution in the radiator or tank. Replace evaporation with clean water, and leakage with solution. Pure calcium chloride retails at about 8 cents per pound, or can be procured from any wholesale drug store at 5 cents.
«Anti-Freezing, Non-Corrosive Solution.»—A solution for water-jackets on gas engines that will not freeze at any temperature above 20° below zero (F.) may be made by combining 100 parts of water, by weight, with 75 parts of carbonate potash and 50 parts of glycerine. This solution is non-corrosive and will remain perfectly liquid at all temperatures above its congealing point.
«Anti-Frost Solution.»—As an excellent remedy against the freezing of shop windows, apply a mixture consisting of 55 parts of glycerine dissolved in 1,000 parts of 62 per cent alcohol, containing, to improve the odor, some oil of amber. As soon as the mixture clarifies, it is rubbed over the inner surface of the glass. This treatment, it is claimed, not only prevents the formation of frost, but also stops sweating.
«Protection of Acetylene Apparatus from Frost.»—Alcohol, glycerine, and calcium chloride have been recommended for the protection of acetylene generators from frost. The employment of calcium chloride, which must not be confounded with chloride of lime, appears preferable in all points of view. A solution of 20 parts of calcium chloride in 80 parts of water congeals only at 5° F. above zero. But as this temperature does not generally penetrate the generators, it will answer to use 10 or 15 parts of the chloride for 100 parts of water, which will almost always be sufficient to avoid congelation. Care must be taken not to use sea salt or other alkaline or metallic salts, which deteriorate the metal of the apparatus.
«FROST BITE.»
When the skin is as yet unbroken, Hugo Kuhl advises the following: {364}
I.—Carbolized water 4 drachms Nitric acid 1 drop Oil of geranium 1 drop
Mix. Pencil over the skin and then hold the penciled place near the fire until the skin is quite dry.
If the skin is already broken, use the following ointment:
II.—Hebra’s ointment 500 parts Glycerine 100 parts Liquefied carbolic acid 15 parts
Mix. Apply to the broken skin occasionally.
III.—Camphor 25 parts Iodine, pure 50 parts Olive oil 500 parts Paraffine, solid 450 parts Alcohol, enough.
Dissolve the camphor in the oil and the iodine in the least possible amount of alcohol. Melt the paraffine and add the mixed solutions. When homogeneous pour into suitable molds. Wrap the pencils in paraffine paper or tin foil, and pack in wooden boxes. By using more or less olive oil the pencils may be made of any desired consistency.
IV.—Dissolve 5 parts of camphor in a mixture consisting of 5 parts of ether and 5 parts of alcohol; then add collodion sufficient to make 100 parts.
V.—Dissolve 1 part of thymol in 5 parts of a mixture of ether and alcohol, then add collodion sufficient to make 100 parts.
VI.—Carbolic acid 2 parts Lead ointment 40 parts Lanolin 40 parts Olive oil 20 parts Lavender oil 1 1/2 parts
VII.—Tannic acid 15 parts Lycopodium 15 parts Lard 30 parts
VIII.—Zinc oxide 15 parts Glycerine 45 parts Lanolin 40 parts
IX.—Ichthyol 10 parts Resorcin 10 parts Tannic acid 10 parts Distilled water 50 parts
Any of these is to be applied about twice a day.
FROSTED GLASS: See Glass.
FROST PREVENTIVE: See Freezing Preventives.
FROST REMOVERS: See Glass.
FRUIT ESSENCES AND EXTRACTS: See Essences and Extracts.
«Fruit Preserving»
(See also Essences, Extracts, and Preserves.)
«How to Keep Fruit.»—According to experiments of Max de Nansouty, fruit carefully wrapped in silk paper and then buried in dry sand will preserve a fresh appearance with a fresh odor or flavor, almost indefinitely. It may also be preserved in dry excelsior, but not nearly so well. In stubble or straw fruit rots very quickly, while in shavings it mildews quickly. In short, wheat-straw fruit often takes on a musty taste and odor, even when perfectly dry. Finally, when placed on wooden tablets and exposed to the air, most fruit decays rapidly.
I.—Crushed Strawberry.—Put up by the following process, the fruit retains its natural color and taste, and may be exposed to the air for months, without fermenting:
Take fresh, ripe berries, stem them, and rub through a No. 8 sieve, rejecting all soft and green fruit. Add to each gallon of pulp thus obtained, 8 pounds of granulated sugar. Put on the fire and bring just to a boil, stirring constantly. Just before removing from the fire, add to each gallon 1 ounce of a saturated alcoholic solution of salicylic acid, stirring well. Remove the scum, and, while still hot, put into jars, and hermetically seal. Put the jars in cold water, and raise them to the boiling point, to prevent them from bursting by sudden expansion on pouring hot fruit into them. Fill the jars entirely full, so as to leave no air space when fruit cools and contracts.
II.—Crushed Raspberry.—Prepare in the same manner as for crushed strawberry, using 1/2 red raspberries and 1/2 black, to give a nice color, and using 7 pounds of sugar to each gallon of pulp.
III.—Crushed Pineapple.—Secure a good brand of canned grated pineapple, and drain off about one-half of the liquor, by placing on a strainer. Add to each pound of pineapple 1 pound of granulated sugar. Place on the fire, and bring to boiling point, stirring constantly. Just before removing from the fire, add to each gallon of pulp 1 ounce saturated alcoholic solution of salicylic acid. {365} Put into air-tight jars until wanted for use.
IV.—Crushed Peach.—Take a good brand of canned yellow peaches, drain off liquor, and rub through a No. 8 sieve. Add sugar, bring to the boiling point, and when ready to remove from fire add to each gallon 1 ounce saturated alcoholic solution of salicylic acid. Put into jars and seal hermetically.
V.—Crushed Apricot.—Prepared in similar manner to crushed peach, using canned apricots.
VI.—Crushed Orange.—Secure oranges with a thin peel, and containing plenty of juice. Remove the outer, or yellow peel, first, taking care not to include any of the bitter peel. (The outer peel may be used in making orange phosphate, or tincture of sweet orange peel.) Next remove the inner, bitter peel, quarter, and remove the seeds. Extract part of the juice, and grind the pulp through an ordinary meat grinder. Add sugar, place on the fire, and bring to the boiling point. When ready to remove, add to each gallon 1 ounce of saturated alcoholic solution of salicylic acid and 1 ounce of glycerine. Put into air-tight jars.
VII.—Crushed Cherries.—Stone the cherries and grind them to a pulp. Add sugar, and place on the fire, stirring constantly. Before removing, add to each gallon 1 ounce of the saturated solution of salicylic acid. Put into jars and seal.
VIII.—Fresh Crushed Fruits in Season.—In their various seasons berries and fruits may be prepared in fresh lots for the soda fountain each morning, by reducing the fruit to a pulp, and mixing this pulp with an equal quantity of heavy simple syrup.
Berries should be rubbed through a sieve. In selecting berries, it is better to use the medium-sized berries for the pulp, reserving the extra large specimens for garnishing and decorative effects.
Mash the berries with a wooden masher, never using iron or copper utensils, which may discolor the fruit.
Pineapple may be prepared by removing the rough outer skin and grating the pulp upon an ordinary tin kitchen grater. The grater should be scrupulously clean, and care should be taken not to grate off any of the coarse, fibrous matter comprising the fruit’s core.
All crushed fruits are served as follows: Mix equal quantities of pulp and simple syrup in the counter bowl; use 1 1/2 to 2 ounces to each glass, adding the usual quantity of cream, or ice cream. Draw soda, using a fine stream freely.
IX.—Glacés.—Crushed fruits, served in the following manner, make a delicious and refreshing drink:
Crushed fruit 12 drachms Juice of half a lemon. Shaved ice.
Put the ice into a small glass, add the fruit and lemon juice, stir well, and serve with a spoon and straws.
FRUIT PRODUCTS, TESTS FOR: See Foods.
FRUIT SYRUPS: See Syrups.
FRUIT VINEGAR: See Vinegar.
«Fumigants»
(See also Disinfectants.)
«Fumigating Candles.»—I.—Lime wood charcoal, 6,000 parts, by weight, saturated with water (containing saltpeter, 150 parts, by weight, in solution), and dried again, is mixed with benzoin, 750 parts, by weight; styrax, 700 parts, by weight; mastic, 100 parts, by weight; cascarilla, 450 parts, by weight; Peruvian balsam, 40 parts, by weight; Mitcham oil, lavender oil, lemon oil, and bergamot oil, 15 parts, by weight, each; and neroli oil, 3 parts, by weight.
II.—Charcoal, 7,500 parts, by weight; saltpeter, 150 parts, by weight; Tolu balsam, 500 parts, by weight; musk, 2 parts, by weight; rose oil, 1 part. The mixtures are crushed with thick tragacanth to a solid mass.
III.—Sandal wood, 48 parts, by weight; clove, 6 parts, by weight; benzoin, 6 parts, by weight; licorice juice, 4 parts, by weight; potash saltpeter, 2 parts, by weight; cascarilla bark, 1.5 parts, by weight; cinnamon bark, 1.5 parts, by weight; musk, 0.05 parts, by weight. All these substances are powdered and mixed, whereupon the following are added: Styrax (liquid), 5 parts, by weight; cinnamon oil, 0.05 parts, by weight; clove oil, 0.05 parts, by weight; geranium oil, 0.5 parts, by weight; lavender oil, 0.2 parts, by weight; Peruvian balsam, 0.2 parts, by weight. The solid ingredients are each powdered separately, then placed in the respective proportion in a {366} spacious porcelain dish and intimately mixed by means of a flat spatula. The dish must be covered up with a cloth in this operation. After the mixture has been accomplished, add the essential oils and just enough solution of gum arabic so that by subsequent kneading with the pestle a moldable dough results which possesses sufficient solidity after drying. The mass is pressed into metallic molds in the shape of cones not more than 3/4 of an inch in height.
IV.—Red Fumigating Candles.—Sandal wood, 1 part; gum benzoin, 1.5 parts; Tolu balsam, 0.250 parts; sandal oil, .025 parts; cassia oil, .025 parts; clove oil, 25 parts; saltpeter, .090 parts. The powder is mixed intimately, saturated with spirit of wine, in which the oils are dissolved, and shaped into cones.
V.—Wintergreen oil 1 part Tragacanth 20 parts Saltpeter 50 parts Phenol, crystallized 100 parts Charcoal, powdered 830 parts Water.
Dissolve the saltpeter in the water, stir the solution together with the powdered charcoal and dry. Then add the tragacanth powder, also the wintergreen oil and the phenol, and prepare from the mixture, by means of a tragacanth solution containing 2 per cent of saltpeter, a mass which can be shaped into candles.
«Fumigating Perfumes.»—These are used for quickly putting down bad odors in the sick room, etc. They are decidedly antiseptic, and fulfil their purpose admirably.
I.—Select good white blotting paper, and cut each large sheet lengthwise into 3 equal pieces. Make a solution of 1 ounce of potassium nitrate in 12 ounces of boiling water; place this solution in a large plate, and draw each strip of paper over the solution so as to saturate it. Then dry by hanging up. The dried paper is to be saturated in a similar manner with either of the following solutions:
(1) Siam benzoin 1 ounce Storax 3 drachms Olibanum 2 scruples Mastic 2 scruples Cascarilla 2 drachms Vanilla 1 drachm Rectified spirit 8 ounces
Bruise the solids and macerate in the spirit 5 days, filter, and add
Oil of cinnamon 8 parts Oil of cloves 8 parts Oil of bergamot 5 parts Oil of neroli 5 parts
Mix.
(2) Benzoin 1 1/2 ounces Sandal wood 1 ounce Spirit 8 ounces
Macerate as No. 1, and add
Essence of vetiver 3 ounces Oil of lemon grass 40 drops
Mix.
After the paper is dry, cut up into suitable sized pieces to go into commercial envelopes.
II.—Benzoin 1 av. ounce Storax 1 av. ounce Fumigating essence 2 fluidounces Ether 1 fluidounce Acetic acid, glacial 20 drops Alcohol 2 fluidounces
Dissolve the benzoin and storax in a mixture of the alcohol and ether, filter and add the fumigating and the acetic acid. Spread the mixture upon filtering or bibulous paper and allow it to dry. To prevent sticking, dust the surface with talcum and preserve in wax paper. When used the paper is simply warmed, or held over a lamp.
III.—Musk 0.2 parts Oil of rose 1 part Benzoin 100 parts Myrrh 12 parts Orris root 250 parts Alcohol (90 per cent) 500 parts
IV.—Benzoin 80 parts Balsam Tolu 20 parts Storax 20 parts Sandal wood 20 parts Myrrh 10 parts Cascarilla bark 20 parts Musk 0.2 parts Alcohol 250 parts
«Fumigating Ribbon.»—I.—Take 1/2-inch cotton tape and saturate it with niter; when dry, saturate with the following tincture:
Benzoin 1 ounce Orris root 1 ounce Myrrh 2 drachms Tolu balsam 2 drachms Musk 10 grains Rectified spirit 10 ounces
Macerate for a week, filter, and add 10 minims of attar of rose.
II.—Another good formula which may also be used for fumigating paper, is: {367}
Olibanum 2 ounces Storax 1 ounce Benzoin 6 drachms Peruvian balsam 1/2 ounce Tolu balsam 3 drachms Rectified spirit 10 ounces
Macerate 10 days, and filter.
«Perfumed Fumigating Pastilles.»—
I.—Vegetable charcoal 6 ounces Benzoin 1 ounce Nitrate of potash 1/2 ounce Tolu balsam 2 drachms Sandal wood 2 drachms Mucilage of tragacanth, a sufficiency.
Reduce the solids to fine powder, mix, and make into a stiff paste with the mucilage. Divide this into cones 25 grains in weight, and dry with a gentle heat.
II.—Powdered willow charcoal 8 ounces Benzoic acid 6 ounces Nitrate of potash 6 drachms Oil of thyme 1/2 drachm Oil of sandal wood 1/2 drachm Oil of caraway 1/2 drachm Oil of cloves 1/2 drachm Oil of lavender 1/2 drachm Oil of rose 1/2 drachm Rose water 10 ounces
Proceed as in I, but this recipe is better for the addition of 20 grains of powdered tragacanth.
III.—Benzoin 10 av. ounces Charcoal 24 av. ounces Potassium nitrate 1 av. ounce Sassafras 2 av. ounces Mucilage of acacia, sufficient.
Mix the first four in fine powder, add the mucilage, form a mass, and make into conical pastilles.
IV.—Potassium nitrate 375 grains Water 25 fluidounces Charcoal wood, powder 30 av. ounces Tragacanth, powder 375 grains Storax 300 grains Benzoin 300 grains Vanillin 8 grains Coumarin 3 grains Musk 3 grains Civet 1 1/2 grains Oil of rose 20 drops Oil of bergamot 15 drops Oil of ylang-ylang 10 drops Oil of rhodium 10 drops Oil of sandal wood 5 drops Oil of cinnamon 5 drops Oil of orris 1 drop Oil of cascarilla 1 drop
Saturate the charcoal with the potassium nitrate dissolved in the water, dry the mass, powder, add the other ingredients, and mix thoroughly. Beat the mixture to a plastic mass with the addition of sufficient mucilage of tragacanth containing 2 per cent of saltpeter in solution, and form into cone-shaped pastilles. In order to evenly distribute the storax throughout the mass, it may be previously dissolved in a small amount of acetic ether.
V.—Benzoin 2 av. ounces Cascarilla 1 av. ounce Myrrh 1 av. ounce Potassium nitrate 1/2 av. ounce Potassium chlorate 60 grains Charcoal, wood 4 av. ounces Oil of cloves 1 fluidrachm Oil of cinnamon 1 fluidrachm Oil of lavender 1 fluidrachm Mucilage of tragacanth, sufficient.
Mix the first six ingredients previously reduced to fine powder, add the oils, and then incorporate enough mucilage to form a mass. Divide this into pastilles weighing about 60 grains and dry.
VI.—Charcoal, powder 30 av. ounces Potassium nitrate 1/2 av. ounce Water 33 fluidounces Tragacanth, powder 300 grains Tincture of benzoin 1 1/2 fluidounces Peru balsam 300 grains Storax, crude 300 grains Tolu balsam 300 grains Oleo-balsamic mixture 2 1/2 fluidrachms Coumarin 8 grains
Saturate the charcoal with the potassium nitrate dissolved in the water, then dry, reduce to powder, and incorporate the tragacanth and then the remaining ingredients. Form a mass by the addition of sufficient mucilage of tragacanth containing 2 per cent of potassium nitrate in solution and divide into pastilles.
VII.—Powdered nitrate of potassium 1/2 ounce Powdered gum arabic 1/2 ounce Powdered cascarilla bark (fresh) 1/2 ounce Powdered benzoin (fresh) 4 ounces {368} Powdered charcoal 7 ounces Oil of eucalyptus 25 drops Oil of cloves 25 drops Water, a sufficiency.
Make a smooth paste, press into molds and dry.
«FURS:»
«To Clean Furs.»—For dark furs, warm a quantity of new bran in a pan, taking care that it does not burn, to prevent which it must be briskly stirred. When well warmed rub it thoroughly into the fur with the hand. Repeat this 2 or 3 times, then shake the fur, and give it another sharp rubbing until free from dust. For white furs: Lay them on a table, and rub well with bran made moist with warm water; rub until quite dry, and afterwards with dry bran. The wet bran should be put on with flannel, then dry with book muslin. Light furs, in addition to the above, should be well rubbed with magnesia or a piece of book muslin, after the bran process, against the way of the fur.
«To Preserve Furs.»—I.—Furs may be preserved from moths and other insects by placing a little colocynth pulp (bitter apple), or spice (cloves, pimento, etc.), wrapped in muslin, among them; or they may be washed in a very weak solution of corrosive sublimate in warm water (10 to 15 grains to the pint), and afterwards carefully dried. As well as every other species of clothing, they should be kept in a clean, dry place, from which they should be taken out occasionally, well beaten, exposed to the air, and returned.
II.—Sprinkle the furs or woolen stuffs, as well as the drawers or boxes in which they are kept, with spirits of turpentine, the unpleasant scent of which will speedily evaporate on exposure of the stuffs to the air. Some persons place sheets of paper moistened with spirits of turpentine, over, under, or between pieces of cloth, etc., and find it a very effectual method. Many woolen drapers put bits of camphor, the size of a nutmeg, in papers, on different parts of the shelves in their shops, and as they brush their cloths every 2, 3, or 4 months, this keeps them free from moths; and this should be done in boxes where the furs, etc., are put. A tallow candle is frequently put within each muff when laid by. Snuff or pepper is also good.
«FURNACE JACKET.»
A piece of asbestos millboard—10 inches by 4 inches by 3/8 inch—is perforated in about a dozen or more places with glycerined cork borers, then nicked about an inch from each short end and immersed in water until saturated; next the board is bent from the nicks at right angles and the perforated portion shaped by bending it over a bottle with as little force as possible. The result should be a perforated arched tunnel, resting on narrow horizontal ledges at each side. Dry this cover in the furnace, after setting it in position, and pressing it well to the supports. Three such covers, weighing 1 pound, replaced 24 fire clay tiles, weighing 13 pounds, and a higher temperature was obtained than with the latter.
FURNITURE CLEANERS: See Cleaning Preparations and Methods.
FURNITURE, ITS DECORATION: See Wood.
FURNITURE ENAMEL: See Varnishes.
FURNITURE POLISHES: See Polishes.
FURNITURE WAX: See Waxes.
FUSES: See Pyrotechnics.
FUSES FOR ELECTRICAL CIRCUITS: See Alloys.
FUNNELS, TO CLEAN: See Cleaning Preparations and Methods.
GALVANIZED PAPER: See Paper, Metallic.
GAMBOGE STAIN: See Lacquers.
GAPES IN POULTRY: See Veterinary Formulas.
GARANCINE PROCESS: See Dyes.
«GARDENS, CHEMICAL:»
See also Sponges.
I.—Put some sand into a fish-globe or other suitable glass vessel to the depth of 2 or 3 inches; in this place a few pieces of sulphate of copper, aluminum, and iron; pour over the whole a solution of sodium silicate (water glass), 1 part, and water, 3 parts, care being taken not to disarrange the chemicals. Let this stand a week or so, when a dense growth of the silicates of the various bases used will be seen in various colors. Now displace {369} the solution of the sodium silicate with clear water, by conveying a stream of water through a very small rubber tube into the vessel. The water will gradually displace the sodium silicate solution. Care must be taken not to disarrange or break down the growth with the stream of water. A little experimenting, experience and expertness will enable the operator to produce a very pretty garden.
II.—This is a permanent chemical garden, which may be suspended by brass chains with a lamp behind.
Prepare a small beaker or jar full of cold saturated solution of Glauber’s salt, and into the solution suspend by means of threads a kidney bean and a non-porous body, such as a marble, stone, glass, etc. Cover the jar, and in a short time there will be seen radiating from the bean small crystals of sulphate of sodium which will increase and give the bean the aspect of a sea urchin, while the non-porous body remains untouched. The bean appears to have a special partiality for the crystals, which is due to the absorption of water by the bean, but not of the salt. In this way a supersaturated solution is formed in the immediate neighborhood of the bean, and the crystals, in forming, attach themselves to its surface.
III.—A popular form of ornamental crystallization is that obtained by immersing a zinc rod in a solution of a lead salt, thus obtaining the “lead tree.” To prepare this, dissolve lead acetate in water, add a few drops of nitric acid, and then suspend the zinc rod in the solution. The lead is precipitated in large and beautiful plates until the solution is exhausted or the zinc dissolved. In this case the action is electro-chemical, the first portions of the lead precipitated forming with the zinc a voltaic arrangement of sufficient power to decompose the salt.
It is said that by substituting chloride of tin for the lead salt a “tin tree” may be produced, while nitrate of silver under the same conditions would produce a “silver tree.” In the latter case distilled water should be used to prevent precipitation of the silver by possible impurities contained in ordinary water.
GAS FIXTURES: See Brass.
GAS FIXTURES, BRONZING OF: See Plating.
GAS SOLDERING: See Soldering.
GAS-STOVES, TO CLEAN: See Cleaning Preparations and Methods.
GAS TRICK: See Pyrotechnics.
GEAR LUBRICANT: See Lubricants.
«GELATIN:»
«French Gelatin.»—Gelatin is derived from two sources, the parings of skins, hides, etc., and from bones. The latter are submitted to the
## action of dilute hydrochloric acid for several days, which attacks the
inorganic matters—carbonates, phosphates, etc., and leaves the ossein, which is, so to say, an isomer of the skin substance. The skin, parings of hide, etc., gathered from the shambles, butcher shops, etc., are brought into the factory, and if not ready for immediate use are thrown into quicklime, which preserves them for the time being. From the lime, after washing, they pass into dilute acid, which removes the last traces of lime, and are now ready for the treatment that is to furnish the pure gelatin. The ossein from bones goes through the same stages of treatment, into lime, washed and laid in dilute acid again. From the acid bath the material goes into baths of water maintained at a temperature not higher than from 175° to 195° F.
The gelatin manufacturer buys from the button-makers and manufacturers of knife handles and bone articles generally, those parts of the bone that they cannot use, some of which are pieces 8 inches long by a half inch thick.
Bones gathered by the ragpickers furnish the strongest glue. The parings of skin, hide, etc., are from those portions of bullock hides, calf skins, etc., that cannot be made use of by the tanner, the heads, legs, etc.
The gelatin made by Coignet for the Pharmacie Centrale de France is made from skins procured from the tawers of Paris, who get it directly from the abattoirs, which is as much as to say that the material is guaranteed fresh and healthy, since these institutions are under rigid inspection and surveillance of government inspectors and medical men.
There is a gelatin or glue, used exclusively for joiners, inside carpenters, and ceiling makers (_plafonneurs_), called _rabbit vermicelli_, and derived from rabbit skins. As the first treatment of these skins is to saturate them with mercury bichloride, it is needless to say the product is not employed in pharmacy. {370}
«To Clarify Solutions of Gelatin, Glues, etc.»—If 1 per cent of ammonium fluoride be added to turbid solutions of gelatin or common glue, or, in fact, of any gums, it quickly clarifies them. It causes a deposition of ligneous matter, and also very materially increases the adhesive power of such solutions.
«Air Bubbles in Gelatin.»—The presence of minute air bubbles in cakes of commercial gelatin often imparts to them an unpleasant cloudy appearance. These minute air bubbles are the result of the rapid, continuous process of drying the sheets of gelatin by a counter-current of hot air. Owing to the rapid drying a hard skin is formed on the outside of the cake, leaving a central layer from which the moisture escapes only with difficulty, and in which the air bubbles remain behind. Since the best qualities of gelatin dry most rapidly, the presence of these minute bubbles is, to a certain extent, an indication of superiority, and they rarely occur in the poorer qualities of gelatin. If dried slowly in the old way gelatin is liable to be damaged by fermentation; in such cases large bubbles of gas are formed in the sheets, and are a sign of bad quality.
«GEMS, ARTIFICIAL:»
See also Diamonds.
The raw materials for the production of artificial gems are the finest silica and, as a rule, finely ground rock crystals; white sand and quartz, which remain pure white even at a higher temperature, may also be used.
Artificial borax is given the preference, since the native variety frequently contains substances which color the glass. Lead carbonate or red lead must be perfectly pure and not contain any protoxide, since the latter gives the glass a dull, greenish hue. White lead and red lead have to dissolve completely in dilute nitric acid or without leaving a residue; the solution, neutralized as much as possible, must not be reddened by prussiate of potash. In the former case tin is present, in the latter copper. Arsenious acid and saltpeter must be perfectly pure; they serve for the destruction of the organic substances. The materials, without the coloring oxide, furnish the starting quantity for the production of artificial gems; such glass pastes are named “strass.”
The emerald, a precious stone of green color, is imitated by melting 1,000 parts of strass and 8 parts of chromic oxide. Artificial emeralds are also obtained with cupric acid and ferric oxides, consisting of 43.84 parts of rock crystal; 21.92 parts of dry sodium carbonate; 7.2 parts of calcined and powdered borax; 7.2 parts of red lead; 3.65 parts of saltpeter; 1.21 parts of red ferric oxide, and 0.6 parts of green copper carbonate.
Agates are imitated by allowing fragments of variously colored pastes to flow together, and stirring during the deliquation.
The amethyst is imitated by mixing 300 parts of a glass frit with 0.6 parts of gray manganese ore, or from 300 parts of frit containing 0.8 per cent of manganic oxide, 36.5 parts of saltpeter, 15 parts of borax, and 15 parts of minium (red lead). A handsome amethyst is obtained by melting together 1,000 parts of strass, 8 parts of manganese oxide, 5 parts of cobalt oxide, and 2 parts of gold purple.
Latterly, attempts have also been made to produce very hard glasses for imitation stones from alumina and borax with the requisite coloring agents.
Besides imitation stones there are also produced opaque glass pastes bearing the name of the stones they resemble, e. g., aventurine, azure-stone (lapis lazuli), chrysoprase, turquoise, obsidian, etc. For these, especially pure materials, as belonging to the most important ingredients of glassy bodies, are used, and certain quantities of red lead and borax are also added.
GEM CEMENTS: See Adhesives, under Jewelers’ Cements.
GERMAN SILVER: See Alloys.
GERMAN SILVER SOLDERS: See Solders.
GILDING: See Paints, Plating, and Varnishes.
GILDING GLASS: See Glass.
GILDING, TO CLEAN: See Cleaning Preparations and Methods.
GILDING, RENOVATION OF: See Cleaning Compounds.
GILDING SUBSTITUTE: See Plating.
GILT, TEST FOR: See Gold.
GILT WORK, TO BURNISH: See Gold. {371}
GINGERADE: See Beverages.
GINGER ALE AND GINGER BEER: See Beverages.
GINGER CORDIAL: See Wines and Liquors.
GINGER EXTRACTS: See Essences and Extracts.
«Glass»
«Bent Glass.»—This was formerly used for show cases; its use in store fronts is becoming more and more familiar, large plates being bent for this purpose. It is much used in the construction of dwellings, in windows, or rounded corners, and in towers; in coach fronts and in rounded front china closets. Either plain glass or beveled glass may be bent, and to any curve.
The number of molds required in a glass-bending establishment is large.
The bending is done in a kiln. Glass melts at 2,300° F.; the heat employed in bending is 1,800° F. No pyrometer would stand long in that heat, so the heat of the kiln is judged from the color of the flame and other indications. Smaller pieces of glass are put into the molds in the kilns with forks made for the purpose. The great molds used for bending large sheets of glass are mounted on cars, that may be rolled in and out of kilns. The glass is laid upon the top of the mold or cavity, and is bent by its own weight. As it is softened by the heat it sinks into the mold and so is bent. It may take an hour or two to bend the glass, which is then left in the kiln from 24 to 36 hours to anneal and cool. Glass of any kind or size is put into the kilns in its finished state; the great heat to which it is subjected does not disturb the polished surface. Despite every precaution more or less glass is broken in bending. Bent glass costs about 50 per cent more than the flat.
The use of bent glass is increasing, and there are 4 or 5 glass-bending establishments in the United States, of which one is in the East.
«Colored Glass.»—R. Zsigmondy has made some interesting experiments in coloring glass with metallic sulphides, such as molybdenite, and sulphides of antimony, copper, bismuth, and nickel. Tests made with batches of 20 to 40 pounds and with a heat not too great, give good results as follows:
Sand, 65 parts; potash, 15 parts; soda, 5 parts; lime, 9 parts; molybdenite, 3 parts; sulphide of sodium, 2 parts, gave a dark reddish-brown glass. In thinner layers this glass appeared light brownish yellow. Flashed with opal, it became a smutty black brown.
Sand, 50 parts; potash, 15 parts; soda, 5 parts; lime, 9 parts; molybdenite, 1 part; sulphide of sodium, 2 parts, gave a yellow glass.
Sand, 10 parts; potash, 3.3 parts; soda, 0.27 parts; lime, 1.64 parts; molybdenite, 0.03 parts, gave a reddish-yellow glass with a fine tinge of red.
Sand, 100 parts; potash, 26 parts; soda, 108 parts; lime, 12 parts; sulphide of copper, 1.7 parts; sulphide of sodium, 2.3 parts, gave a dark-brown color, varying from sepia to sienna. In thick layers it was no longer transparent, but still clear and unclouded. When heated this glass became smutty black brown and clouded.
A fine copper red was obtained from sand, 10 parts; potash, 3 parts; lime, 1.2 parts; soda, 0.25 parts; sulphide of copper, 7.5 parts; sulphide of sodium, 10.5 parts; borax, 9.5 parts.
Attempts to color with sulphides of antimony and bismuth failed. But the addition of 7 per cent of sulphide of nickel to an ordinary batch gave a glass of fine amethyst color.
«Coloring Electric-Light Bulbs and Globes.»—Two substances suggest themselves as excellent vehicles of color, and both water soluble—water glass (potassium or sodium silicate) and gelatin. For tinting, water-soluble aniline colors should be tried. The thickness of the solution must be a matter of experimentation. Prior to dipping the globes they should be made as free as possible from all grease, dirt, etc. The gelatin solution should not be so thick that any appreciable layer of it will form on the surface of the glass, and to prevent cracking, some non-drying material should be added to it, say glycerine.
«Rose-Tint Glass.»—Selenium is now used for coloring glass. Rose-tinted glass is made by adding selenium directly to the ingredients in the melting pot. By mixing first with cadmium sulphide, orange red is produced. This process is stated not to require the reheating of the glass and its immersion in the coloring mixture, as in the ordinary process of making red glass.
«CUTTING, DRILLING, GRINDING, AND SHAPING GLASS:»
«To Cut Glass.»—I.—Glass may be cut without a diamond. Dip a piece of {372} common string in alcohol and squeeze it reasonably dry. Then tie the string tightly around the glass on the line of cutting. Touch a match to the string and let it burn off. The heat of the burning string will weaken the glass in this particular place. While it is hot plunge the glass under water, letting the arm go well under to the elbow, so there will be no vibration when the glass is struck. With the free hand strike the glass outside the line of cutting, giving a quick, sharp stroke with a stick of wood, a long-bladed knife, or the like, and the cut will be as clean and straight as if made by a regular glass cutter.
The same principle may be employed to cut bottles into vases, and to form all sorts of pretty things, such as jewelry boxes, picture panes, trays, small tablets, windows for a doll house, etc.
II.—Scratch the glass around the shape you desire with the corner of a file or graver; then, having bent a piece of wire into the same shape, heat it red hot and lay it upon the scratch and sink the glass into cold water just deep enough for the water to come almost on a level with its upper surface. It will rarely fail to break perfectly true.
«To Cut Glass Under Water.»—It is possible to cut a sheet of glass roughly to any desired shape with an ordinary pair of scissors, if the operation be performed under water. Of course, a smooth edge cannot be obtained by such means, but it will be found satisfactory.
«Drilling, Shaping, and Filing Glass.»—Take any good piece of steel wire, file to the shape of a drill, and then hold it in a flame till it is at a dull red heat; then quench in metallic mercury. A piece of good steel, thus treated, will bore through glass almost as easily as through soft brass. In use, lubricate with oil of turpentine in which camphor has been dissolved. When the point of the drill has touched the other side put the glass in water, and proceed with the drilling very slowly. If not possible to do this, reverse the work—turn the glass over and drill, very carefully, from the opposite side. By proceeding with care you can easily drill three holes through glass 3/16 inch thick 1/4 of an inch apart. In making the drill be careful not to make the point and the cutting edges too acute. The drill cuts more slowly, but more safely, when the point and cutting edges are at a low angle.
«To Make Holes in Thin Glass.»—To produce holes in panes of thin or weak glass, provide the places to be perforated with a ring of moist loam, whose center leaves free a portion of glass exactly the size of the desired hole. Pour molten lead into the ring, and the glass and lead will fall through at once. This process is based upon the rapid heating of the glass.
«To Grind Glass.»—For the grinding of glass, iron, or steel laps and fine sand are first used; after that, the sand is replaced by emery. Then the polishing is started with pure lead or pure tin laps, and finished with willow wood laps. The polishing powder is tin putty, but peroxide of iron or dioxide of tin is a good polishing medium.
Pohl asserts that if glass is polished with crocus (Paris red) it appears of a dark or a yellowish-brown tint. He contends that the crocus enters the pores of the glass, and, to prevent this, he uses zinc white with the most satisfactory results.
«A Home-Made Outfit for Grinding Glass.»—Provide two pieces of cork, one concave and one convex (which may be cut to shape after fitting to the lathe). Take a copper cent or other suitable article and soft-solder a screw to fit the lathe, and then wax it to the cork; get a cheap emery wheel, such as is used on sewing machines. Polish the edge on the zinc collar of the emery wheel (or use a piece of zinc). The other cork should be waxed to a penny and centered. Spectacle lenses may be cut on the same emery wheel if the wheel is attached to the lathe so as to revolve. Another method is to take a common piece of window glass (green glass is the best) and make a grindstone of that, using the flat surface for grinding. Cement it on a large chuck, the glass being from 2 to 2 1/2 inches in diameter.
«To Drill Optical Glass.»—A graver sharpened to a long point is twisted between the fingers, and pressed against the glass, the point being moistened from time to time with turpentine. When the hole is finished half way, the drilling should be commenced from the other side. The starting should be begun with care, as otherwise the graver is likely to slide out and scratch the lens. It is advisable to mark the point of drilling with a diamond, and not to apply too great a pressure when twisting the graver.
«Lubricants for Glass Drilling.»—I.—Put garlic, chopped in small pieces, into spirit of turpentine and agitate the {373} mixture from time to time. Filter at the end of a fortnight, and when you desire to pierce the glass dip your bit or drill into this liquid, taking care to moisten it constantly to prevent the drill, etc., from becoming heated.
II.—Place a little alum in acetic acid, dip your drill into this and put a drop of it on the spot where the glass is to be pierced.
«GILDING GLASS.»
When it is desired to gild glass for decorative purposes use a solution of gelatin in hot water, to which an equal quantity of alcohol has been added. The glass to be gilded is covered with this solution and the gold leaf put on while wet. A sheet of soft cotton must be pressed and smoothed over the leaf until the gelatin below is evenly distributed. This prevents spots in gilding. Careful apportionment of the gelatin is necessary. If too much be used, the gold may become spotted; if too little, the binding may be too weak to allow the gold to be polished. The glass should be cleaned thoroughly before gilding. After the gold leaf is put on the whole is allowed to dry for 10 or 20 minutes, when the luster of the gold can be raised by a cautious rubbing with cotton. Then another layer of gelatin is spread on with one stroke of a soft brush, and, if especially good work be required, a second layer of gold is put on and covered as before. In this case, however, the gelatin is used hot. After the gilding has become perfectly dry the letters or ornamentation are drawn and the surplus gold around the edges is taken off. The gilding does not become thoroughly fixed until after several months, and until then rough handling, washing, etc., should be avoided.
The best backing for glass gilding is asphaltum, with a little lampblack, this to be mixed up with elastic varnish; outside finishing varnish is the best, as the addition of this material gives durability.
«GLASS MANUFACTURING:»
See also Ceramics.
The blue tint of the common poison bottle is got by the addition of black oxide of cobalt to the molten glass; the green tint of the
## actinic glass bottle is obtained in the same way by the addition of
potassium bichromate, which is reduced to the basylous condition, and the amber tint is produced by the addition of impure manganese dioxide, a superior tint being produced by suphur in one form or another. The formulas for various kinds of bottle glass, which indicate the general composition of almost all glasses, are:
White Glass for Ordinary Molded Bottles.—
Sand 64 parts by weight Lime 6 parts by weight Carbonate of sodium 23 parts by weight Nitrate of sodium 5 parts by weight
White Flint Glass Containing Lead.—
Sand 63 parts by weight Lime 5 parts by weight Carbonate of sodium 21 parts by weight Nitrate of sodium 3 parts by weight Red lead 8 parts by weight
Ordinary Green Glass for Dispensing Bottles.—
Sand 63 parts by weight Carbonate of sodium 26 parts by weight Lime 11 parts by weight
Amixture for producing a good green flint glass is much the same as that for the ordinary white flint glass, except that the lime, instead of being the purest, is ordinary slaked lime, and the sodium nitrate is omitted. Sand, lime, and sodium carbonate are the ordinary bases of glass, while the sodium nitrate is the decolorizing agent.
Glass Refractory to Heat.—Fine sand, 70 parts; potash, 30 parts; kaolin, 25 parts.
Transparent Ground Glass.—Take hold of the glass by one corner with an ordinary pair of fire tongs. Hold it in front of a clear fire, and heat to about 98° F., or just hot enough to be held comfortably in the hand. Then hold the glass horizontally, ground side uppermost, and pour in the center a little photographer’s dry-plate negative varnish. Tilt the glass so that the varnish spreads over it evenly, then drain back the surplus varnish into the bottle from one corner of the glass. Hold the glass in front of the fire again for a few minutes and the varnish will crystallize on its surface, making it transparent. The glass should not be made too hot before the varnish is put on, or the varnish will not run evenly. This method answers very well for self-made magic-lantern slides. Ground glass may be made temporarily transparent by wiping with a sponge dipped in paraffine or glycerine.
«WATER-TIGHT GLASS:»
«Water-Tight Glass Roofs.»—Glass roofs, the skeletons of which are constructed {374} of iron, are extremely difficult to keep water-tight, as the iron expands and contracts with atmospheric changes. To meet this evil, it is necessary to use an elastic putty, which follows the variations of the iron. A good formula is: Two parts rosin and one part tallow, melted together and stirred together thoroughly with a little minium. This putty is applied hot upon strips of linen or cotton cloth, on top and below, and these are pasted while the putty is still warm, with one edge on the iron ribs and the other, about one-fourth inch broad, over the glass.
«Tightening Agent for Acid Receptacles.»—Cracked vessels of glass or porcelain, for use in keeping acids, can be made tight by applying a cement prepared in the following manner: Take finely sifted sand, some asbestos with short fiber, a little magnesia and add enough concentrated water glass to obtain a readily kneadable mass. The acid renders the putty firm and waterproof.
«PENCILS FOR MARKING GLASS:»
See also Etching and Frosted Glass.
Crayons for Writing on Glass.—I.—The following is a good formula:
Spermaceti 4 parts Tallow 3 parts Wax 2 parts Red lead 6 parts Potassium carbonate 1 part
Melt the spermaceti, tallow, and wax together over a slow fire, and when melted stir in, a little at a time, the potassium carbonate and red lead, previously well mixed. Continue the heat for 20 or 30 minutes, stirring constantly. Withdraw from the source of heat, and let cool down somewhat, under constant stirring, at the temperature of about 180° F.; before the mixture commences to set, pour off into molds and let cool. The latter may be made of bits of glass tubing of convenient diameter and length. After the mixture cools, drive the crayons out by means of a rod that closely fits the diameter of the tubes.
II.—Take sulphate of copper, 1 part, and whiting, 1 part. Reduce these to a fine powder and mix with water; next roll this paste into the shape of crayons and let dry. When it is desired to write on the glass use one of these crayons and wipe the traced designs. To make them reappear breathe on the glass.
III.—Melt together, spermaceti, 3 parts; talc, 3 parts, and wax, 2 parts. When melted stir in 6 parts of minium and 1 part of caustic potash. Continue heating for 30 minutes, then cast in suitable molds. When formed and ready to be put away dust them with talc powder, or roll each pencil in paraffine powder.
«PREVENTION OF FOGGING, DIMMING, AND CLOUDING.»
I.—Place a few flat glass or porcelain dishes with calcium chloride in each window. This substance eagerly absorbs all moisture from the air. The contents of the dishes have to be renewed every 2 or 3 days, and the moist calcium chloride rigorously dried, whereupon it may be used over again.
II.—Apply to the inside face of the glass a thin layer of glycerine, which does not permit the vapor to deposit in fine drops and thus obstruct the light. Double glass may also be used. In this way the heat of the inside is not in direct contact with the cold outside.
III.—By means of the finger slightly moistened, apply a film of soap of any brand or kind to the mirror; then rub this off with a clean, dry cloth; the mirror will be as bright and clear as ever; breathing on it will not affect its clearness.
IV.—Window glass becomes dull during storage by reason of the presence of much alkali. This can be avoided by taking sand, 160 parts; calcined sodium sulphate, 75; powdered marble, 50; and coke, 4 to 5 parts. About 3 parts of the sodium sulphate may be replaced by an equal quantity of potash.
«FROSTED GLASS.»
I.—A frosted appearance may be given to glass by covering it with a mixture of
Magnesium sulphate 6 ounces Dextrin 2 ounces Water 20 ounces
When this solution dries, the magnesium sulphate crystallizes in fine needles.
II.—Another formula directs a strong solution of sodium or magnesium sulphate, applied warm, and afterwards coated with a thin solution of acacia.
III.—A more permanent “frost” may be put on the glass by painting with white lead and oil, either smooth or in stipple effect. The use of lead acetate with oil gives a more pleasing effect, perhaps, than the plain white lead.
IV.—If still greater permanency is desired, the glass may be ground by rubbing with some gritty substance. {375}
V.—For a temporary frosting, dip a piece of flat marble into glass cutter’s sharp sand, moistened with water; rub over the glass, dipping frequently in sand and water. If the frosting is required very fine, finish off with emery and water. Mix together a strong, hot solution of Epsom salt and a clear solution of gum arabic; apply warm. Or use a strong solution of sodium sulphate, warm, and when cool, wash with gum water. Or daub the glass with a lump of glazier’s putty, carefully and uniformly, until the surface is equally covered. This is an excellent imitation of ground glass, and is not disturbed by rain or damp.
VI.—This imitates ground glass:
Sandarac 2 1/2 ounces Mastic 1/2 ounce Ether 24 ounces Benzine 16 to 18 ounces
VII.—Take white lead ground in a mixture of 3/4 varnish and 1/4 oil of turpentine, to which burnt white vitriol and white sugar of lead are added for drier. The paint must be prepared exceedingly thin and applied to the glass evenly, using a broad brush. If the windows require a new coat, the old one is first removed by the use of a strong lye, or else apply a mixture of hydrochloric acid, 2 parts; vitriol, 2 parts; copper sulphate, 1 part; and gum arabic 1 part, by means of a brush. The production of this imitation frosting entails little expense and is of special advantage when a temporary use of the glass is desired.
VIII.—A little Epsom salt (sulphate of magnesia) stirred in beer with a small dose of dextrin and applied on the panes by means of a sponge or a brush permits of obtaining mat panes.
«Hoarfrost Glass.»—The feathery foams traced by frost on the inside of the windows in cold weather may be imitated as follows:
The surface is first ground either by sand-blast or the ordinary method, and is then covered with a sort of varnish. On being dried either in the sun or by artificial heat, the varnish contracts strongly, taking with it the particles of glass to which it adheres; and as the contraction takes places along definite lines, the pattern given by the removal of the particles of glass resembles very closely the branching crystals of frostwork. A single coat gives a small, delicate effect, while a thick film, formed by putting on 2, 3 or more coats, contracts so strongly as to produce a large and bold design. By using colored glass, a pattern in half-tint may be made on the colored ground, and after decorating white glass, the back may be silvered or gilded.
«Engraving, Matting, and Frosting.»—Cover the glass with a layer of wax or of varnish on which the designs are traced with a graver or pen-point; next, hydrofluoric acid is poured on the tracings. This acid is very dangerous to handle, while the following process, though furnishing the same results, does not present this drawback: Take powdered fluoride of lime, 1 part, and sulphuric acid, 2 parts. Make a homogeneous paste, which is spread on the parts reserved for the engraving or frosting. At the end of 3 or 4 hours wash with water to remove the acid, next with alcohol to take off the varnish, or with essence of turpentine if wax has been employed for stopping off.
«To Render Window Panes Opaque.»—I.—Panes may be rendered mat and non-transparent by painting them on one side with a liquid prepared by grinding whiting with potash water-glass solution. After one or two applications, the panes are perfectly opaque, while admitting the light.
II.—Paint the panes with a solution of
Dextrin 200 parts by weight Zinc vitriol 800 parts by weight Bitter salt 300 parts by weight In water 2,000 parts by weight
III.—For deadening panes already set in frames the following is suitable: Dissolve 1 part of wax in 10 parts of oil of turpentine, adding 1 part of varnish and 1 part of siccative. With this mixture coat the panes on the outside and dab, while still wet, with a pad of cotton wadding. If desired small quantities of Paris blue, madder lake, etc., may be added to the wax solution.
IV.—For deadening window panes in factories and workshops: To beeswax dissolved in oil of turpentine, add some dryer and varnish to obtain a quicker drying and hardening. After the window pane has been coated with this mixture on the outside, it is dabbed uniformly with a pad of wadding. The wax may be tinted with glazing colors.
«Frosted Mirrors.»—I.—Cover with a solution of Epsom salts in stale beer; apply with a sponge to the mirror, first wiping it clean and dry. On drying, the Epsom salt crystallizes, giving very handsome frosted effects, but the solution must not be applied on humid days {376} when the glass is liable to be damp, for in that case the effect will be a blurred one. When it is desirable to remove the coating, lukewarm water will serve the purpose without damage to the luster of the mirror.
II.—The following mixture, when applied to a mirror and left to dry, will form in many shapes, all radiating from a focus, this focus forming anywhere on the glass, and when all dry tends to form a most pleasing object to the eye.
Sour ale 4 ounces Magnesium sulphate 1 ounce
Put on the mirror with a small, clean sponge and let dry. It is now ready for the artist, and he may choose his own colors and subject.
«Crystalline Coatings or Frostwork on Glass or Paper.»—Dissolve a small quantity of dextrin (gum arabic and tragacanth are not so suitable) in aqueous salt solution as concentrated as possible, for instance, in sulphate of magnesia (bitter salt), sulphate of zinc or any other readily crystallizing salt; filter the solution through white blotting paper and coat glass panes uniformly thin with the clear filtrate, using a fine, broad badger brush; leave them lying at an ordinary medium temperature about one-quarter hour in a horizontal position.
As the water slowly evaporates during this short time, handsome crystalline patterns, closely resembling frostwork, will develop gradually on the glass panes, which adhere so firmly to the glass or the paper (if well-sized glazed paper had been used) that they will not rub off easily. They can be permanently fixed by a subsequent coat of alcoholic shellac solution.
Especially handsome effects are produced with colored glass panes thus treated, and in the case of reflected light by colored paper.
For testing crystals as regards their optical behavior, among others their behavior to polarized light, it is sufficient to pour a solution of collodion wool (soluble peroxide lime for the preparation of collodion) over the surface of glass with the crystalline designs, and to pull off the dry collodion film carefully. If this is done cautiously it is not difficult to lift the whole crystalline group from the glass plate and to incorporate it with the glass-like, thin collodion film.
«REMOVING WINDOW FROST.»
Here are fourteen methods of preventing frost on windows, arranged in the order of their efficacy: 1, Flame of an alcohol lamp; 2, sulphuric acid; 3, aqua ammonia; 4, glycerine; 5, aqua regia; 6, hydrochloric acid; 7, benzine; 8, hydriodic acid; 9, boric acid; 10, alcohol; 11, nitric acid; 12, cobalt nitrate; 13, infusion of nutgalls; 14, tincture of ferrous sulphate. By the use of an alcohol lamp (which, of course, has to be handled with great care) the results are immediate, and the effect more nearly permanent than by any other methods. The sulphuric acid application is made with a cotton cloth swab, care being taken not to allow any dripping, and so with all other acids. The effect of the aqua ammonia is almost instantaneous, but the window is frosted again in a short time. With the glycerine there are very good results—but slight stains on the window which may be easily removed.
The instructions for glycerine are: Dissolve 2 ounces of glycerine in 1 quart of 62 per cent alcohol containing, to improve the odor, some oil of amber. When the mixture clarifies it is rubbed over the inner surface of the glass. This, it is claimed, not only prevents the formation of frost, but also prevents sweating.
«To Prevent Dimming of Eyeglasses, etc.»—Mix olein-potash soap with about 3 per cent of glycerine and a little oil turpentine. Similar mixtures have also been recommended for polishing physicians’ reflectors, show-windows, etc., to prevent dimming.
«WRITING ON GLASS:»
See also Etching and Inks.
«Composition for Writing on Glass.»—To obtain mat designs on glass, take sodium fluoride, 35 parts; potassium sulphate, 7 parts; zinc chloride, 15 parts; hydrochloric acid, 65 parts; distilled water, 1,000 parts. Dissolve the sodium fluoride and the potassium sulphate in half the water; dissolve the zinc chloride in the remaining water and add the hydrochloric acid. Preserve these two solutions separately. For use, mix a little of each solution and write on the glass with a pen or brush.
«Ink for Writing on Glass.»—
Shellac 20 parts Alcohol 150 parts Borax 35 parts Water 250 parts Water-soluble dye sufficient to color.
Dissolve the shellac in the alcohol, the borax in the water, and pour the shellac {377} solution slowly into that of the borax. Then add the coloring matter previously dissolved in a little water.
GLASS AND GLASSWARE CEMENT: See Adhesives and Amalgams.
GLASS CLEANERS: See Cleaning Preparations and Methods.
GLASS, COPPERING, GILDING, AND PLATING: See Plating.
GLASS ETCHING: See Etching.
GLASS, HOW TO AFFIX SIGN-LETTERS ON: See Adhesives under Sign-Letter Cements.
GLASS, FASTENING METALS ON: See Adhesives.
GLASS LETTERING: See Lettering.
GLASS LUBRICANTS: See Lubricants.
GLASS, PERCENTAGE OF LIGHT ABSORBED BY: See Light.
GLASS POLISHES: See Polishes.
GLASS, SILVERING OF: See Mirrors.
GLASS SOLDERS: See Solders.
GLASS, SOLUBLE, AS A CEMENT: See Adhesives.
GLASS, TO AFFIX PAPER ON: See Adhesives, under Water-Glass Cements.
GLASS, TO SILVER: See Silver.
«Glazes»
(See also Ceramics, Enamels, Paints, and Varnishes.)
«Glazes for Cooking Vessels.»—Melt a frit of red lead, 22.9 parts (by weight); crystallized boracic acid, 31 parts; enamel soda, 42.4 parts; cooking salt, 10 parts; gravel, 12 parts; feldspar, 8 parts. According to the character of the clay, this frit is mixed with varying quantities of sand, feldspar and kaolin, in the following manner:
Frit 84 84 84 84 Red lead 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 Gravel 8 6 3 ──── Feldspar ──── 2 5 8 Kaolin, burnt 6.5 6.5 6.5 6.5
Glazes which are produced without addition of red lead to the frit, are prepared as follows. Melt a frit of the following composition: Red lead, 22.9 parts (by weight); boracic acid in crystals, 24.8 parts; enamel soda, 37.1 parts; calcined potash, 6.9 parts; cooking salt, 10 parts; chalk, 10 parts; gravel, 12 parts; feldspar, 8 parts.
From the frit the following glazes are prepared:
Frit 86.5 86.5 86.5 86.5 Gravel 7 4.5 3 ──── Feldspar ──── 2.5 4 7 Kaolin, burnt 6.5 6.5 6.5 6.5
«Glazing on Size Colors.»—The essential condition for this work is a well-sized foundation. For the glazing paint, size is likewise used as a binder, but a little dissolved soap is added, of about the strength employed for coating ceilings. Good veining can be done with this, and a better effect can be produced in executing pieces which are to appear in relief, such as car-touches, masks, knobs, etc., than with the ordinary means. A skillful grainer may also impart to the work the pleasant luster of natural wood. The same glazing method is applicable to colored paintings. If the glazing colors are prepared with wax, dissolved in French turpentine, one may likewise glaze with them on a size-paint ground. Glazing tube-oil colors thinned with turpentine and siccative, are also useful for this purpose. For the shadows, asphalt and Van Dyke brown are recommended, while the contour may be painted with size-paint.
«Coating Metallic Surfaces with Glass.»—Metallic surfaces may be coated with glass by melting together 125 parts (by weight) of flint-glass fragments, 20 parts of sodium carbonate, and 12 parts of boracic acid. The molten mass is next poured on a hard and cold surface, stone or metal. After it has cooled, it is powdered. Make a mixture of 50° Bé. of this powder and sodium silicate (water glass). The metal to be glazed is coated with this and heated in a muffle or any other oven until the mixture melts and can be evenly distributed. This glass coating adheres firmly to iron and steel.
«Glaze for Bricks.»—A glazing color for bricks patented in Germany is a {378} composition of 12 parts (by weight) lead; 4 parts litharge; 3 parts quartzose sand; 4 parts white argillaceous earth; 2 parts kitchen salt; 2 parts finely crushed glass, and 1 part saltpeter. These ingredients are all reduced to a powder and then mixed with a suitable quantity of water. The color prepared in this manner is said to possess great durability, and to impart a fine luster to the bricks.
GLAZES FOR LAUNDRY: See Laundry Preparations.
GLOBES, HOW TO COLOR: See Glass-Coloring.
GLOBES, PERCENTAGE OF LIGHT ABSORBED BY: See Light.
GLOBES, SILVERING OF: See Mirrors.
GLOSS FOR PAPER: See Paper.
GLOVE-CLEANERS: See Cleaning Compounds.
GLOVES, SUBSTITUTE FOR RUBBER: See Antiseptics.
GLOVES, TESTING: See Rubber.
GLUCOSE IN JELLY: See Foods.
«Glue»
(Formulas for Glues and methods of manufacturing Glue will be found under Adhesives.)
«Rendering Glue Insoluble in Water.»—Stuebling finds that the usual mixture of bichromate and glue when used in the ordinary way does not possess the waterproof properties with which it is generally credited. If mixed in the daylight, it sets hard before it can be applied to the surfaces to be glued, and if mixed and applied in the dark room it remains just as soluble as ordinary glue, the light being unable to penetrate the interior of the joints. Neither is a mixture of linseed oil and glue of any use for this purpose. Happening to upset a strong solution of alum—prepared for wood staining—into an adjacent glue pot, he stirred up the two together out of curiosity and left them. Wishing to use the glue a few days later, he tried to thin it down with water, but unsuccessfully, the glue having set to a waterproof mass. Fresh glue was then mixed with alum solution and used to join two pieces of wood, these resisting the action of the water completely.
«To Bleach Glue.»—Dissolve the glue in water, by heat, and while hot, add a mixture in equal parts of oxalic acid and zinc oxide, to an amount equal to about 1 per cent of the glue. After the color has been removed, strain through muslin.
«Method of Purifying Glue.»—The glue is soaked in cold water and dissolved in a hot 25 per cent solution of magnesium sulphate. The hot solution is filtered, and to the filtrate is added a 25 per cent solution of magnesium sulphate containing 0.5 per cent of hydrochloric acid (or, if necessary, sulphuric acid). A white flocculent precipitate is obtained which is difficult to filter. The remainder of the glue in the saline solution is extracted by treatment with magnesium sulphate.
The viscous matter is washed, then dissolved in hot water, and allowed to cool, a quantity of weak alcohol acidulated by 1 per cent of hydrochloric acid being added just before the mass solidifies. From 2 to 3 parts, by volume, of strong alcohol (methyl or ethyl) are then added and the solution filtered, charcoal being used if necessary. The glue is finally precipitated from this solution by neutralizing with ammonia and washing with alcohol or water.
«To Distinguish Glue and Other Adhesive Agents.»—The product to be examined is heated with hydrofluoric acid (50 per cent). If bone glue is present in any reasonable quantity, an intense odor of butyric acid arises at once, similar to that of Limburger cheese. But if dextrin or gum arabic is present, only an odor of dextrine or fluorhydric acid will be perceptible. Conduct the reaction with small quantities; otherwise the smell will be so strong that it is hard to remove from the room.
GLUE CLARIFIER: See Gelatin.
«Glycerine»
«Recovering Glycerine from Soap Boiler’s Lye.»—I.—Glycerine is obtained as a by-product in making soap. For many years the lyes were thrown away as waste, but now considerable quantities of glycerine are recovered, which are much used in making explosive compounds.
When a metallic salt or one of the alkalies, as caustic soda, is added to tallow, a stearite of the metal (common soap is stearite of sodium) is formed, whereby the glycerine is eliminated. {379} This valuable by-product is contained in the waste lye, and has formed the subject of several patents.
Draw the lye off from the soap-pans; this contains a large quantity of water, some salt and soap and a small quantity of glycerine, and the great trouble is to concentrate the lye so that the large quantity of water is eliminated, sometimes 10 to 12 days being occupied in doing this. The soap and salt are easily removed.
To remove the soap, run the lye into a series of tanks alternating in size step-like, so that as the first, which should be the largest, becomes full, the liquor will flow into the second, from that into the third, and so on; by this arrangement the rosinous and albuminous matters will settle, and the soap still contained in the lyes will float on the surface, from which it is removed by skimming.
After thus freeing the lye of the solid impurities, convey the purified lye to the glycerine recovering department (wooden troughs or pipes may be used to do this), and after concentrating by heating it in a steam-jacketed boiler, and allowing it to cool somewhat, ladle out the solid salt that separates, and afterwards concentrate the lye by allowing it to flow into a tank, but before doing so let the fluid come in contact with a hot blast of air or superheated steam, whereby the crude discolored glycerine is obtained. This is further purified by heating with animal charcoal to decolorize it, then distilling several times in copper stills with superheated steam. The chief points to attend to are: (1) The neutralizing and concentrating the lye as much as possible and then separating the salts and solid matters; (2) concentrating the purified lye, and mixing this fluid with oleic acid, oil, tallow, or lard, and heating the mixture to 338° F., in a still, by steam, and gradually raise the heat to 372° F.; (3) stirring the liquor while being heated, and allowing the aqueous vapor to escape, and when thus concentrated, saponifying the liquid with lime to eliminate the glycerine; water is at the same time expelled, but this is removed from the glycerine by evaporating the mixture.
II.—In W. E. Garrigues’s patent for the recovering of glycerine from spent soap lyes, the liquid is neutralized with a mineral acid, and after separation of the insoluble fatty acids it is concentrated and then freed from mineral salts and volatile fatty acids, and the concentrated glycerine solution treated with an alkaline substance and distilled. Thus the soap lye may be neutralized with sulphuric acid, and aluminum sulphate added to precipitate the insoluble fatty acids. The filtrate from these is concentrated and the separated mineral salts removed, after which barium chloride is added and then sufficient sulphuric acid to liberate the volatile fatty acids combined with the alkali. These acids are partially enveloped in the barium sulphate, with which they can be separated from the liquid by filtration, while the remaining portion can be expelled by evaporating the liquid in a vacuum evaporator. Finally, the solution is treated with sodium carbonate, and the glycerine distilled.
Glycerine Lotion.—
Glycerine 4 ounces Essence bouquet 1/4 ounce Water 4 ounces Cochineal coloring, a sufficient quantity.
(See also Cosmetics for Glycerine Lotions.)
GLYCERINE APPLICATIONS: See Cosmetics.
GLYCERINE AS A DETERGENT: See Cleaning Preparations and Methods.
GLYCERINE PROCESS: See Photography.
GLYCERINE SOAP: See Soap.
GLYCERINE DEVELOPER: See Photography.
«Gold»
(See also Jewelers’ Formulas.)
«Gold Printing on Oilcloth and Imitation Leather.»—Oilcloth can very easily be gilt if the right degree of heat is observed. After the engraving has been put in the press, the latter is heated slightly, so that it is still possible to lay the palm of the hand on the heated plate without any unpleasant sensation. Go over the oilcloth with a rag in which a drop of olive oil has been rubbed up, which gives a greasy film. No priming with white of egg or any other priming agent should be done, since the gold leaf would stick. Avoid sprinkling on gilding powder. The gold leaf is applied directly on the oilcloth; then place in the lukewarm press, squeezing it down with {380} a quick jerky motion and opening it at once. If the warm plate remains too long on the oilcloth, the gold leaf will stick. When the impression is done, the gold leaf is not swept off at once, but the oilcloth is first allowed to cool completely for several minutes, since there is a possibility that it has become slightly softened under the influence of the heat, especially at the borders of the pressed figures, and the gold would stick there if swept off immediately. The printing should be sharp and neat and the gold glossy. For bronze printing on oilcloth, a preliminary treatment of printing with varnish ground should be given. The bronze is dusted on this varnish.
Imitation leather is generally treated in the same manner. The tough paper substance is made to imitate leather perfectly as regards color and pressing, especially the various sorts of calf, but the treatment in press gilding differs entirely from that of genuine leather. The stuff does not possess the porous, spongy nature of leather, but on the contrary is very hard, and in the course of manufacture in stained-paper factories is given an almost waterproof coating of color and varnish. Hence the applied ground of white of egg penetrates but slightly into this substance, and a thin layer of white of egg remains on the surface. The consequence is that in gilding the gold leaf is prone to become attached, the ground of albumen being quickly dissolved under the action of the heat and put in a soft sticky state even in places where there is no engraving. In order to avoid this the ground is either printed only lukewarm, or this imitation leather is not primed at all, but the gold is applied immediately upon going over the surface with the oily rag. Print with a rather hot press, with about the same amount of heat as is employed for printing shagreen and title paper. A quick jerky printing, avoiding a long pressure of the plate, is necessary.
«Liquid Gold.»—Take an evaporating dish, put into it 880 parts, by weight, of pure gold; then 4,400 parts, by weight, of muriatic acid, and 3,520 parts, by weight, nitric acid; place over a gas flame until the gold is dissolved, and then add to it 22 parts, by weight, of pure tin; when the tin is dissolved add 42 parts, by weight, of butter of antimony. Let all remain over the gas until the mixture begins to thicken. Now put into a glass and test with the hydrometer, which should give about 1,800 specific gravity. Pour into a large glass and fill up with water until the hydrometer shows 1090; pour all the solution into a chemical pot and add to it 1,760 parts, by weight, balsam of sulphur, stirring well all the while, and put it over the gas again; in an hour it should give, on testing, 125° F.; gradually increase the heat up to 185° F., when it should be well stirred and then left to cool about 12 hours. Pour the watery fluid into a large vessel and wash the dark-looking mass 5 or 6 times with hot water; save each lot of water as it contains some portion of gold. Remove all moisture from the dark mass by rolling on a slab and warming before the fire occasionally so as to keep it soft. When quite dry add 2 1/4 times its weight of turpentine and put it over a small flame for about 2 hours; then slightly increase the heat for another hour and a half. Allow this to stand about 24 hours, and then take a glazed bowl and spread over the bottom of it 1,760 parts, by weight, of finely powdered bismuth; pour the prepared gold over it in several places. Now take a vessel containing water and place inside the other vessel containing the gold, and heat it so as to cause the water to boil for 3 hours; allow it to remain until settled and pour off the gold from the settlings of the bismuth, and try it; if not quite right continue the last process with bismuth until good; the bismuth causes the gold to adhere.
«Preparation of Balsam of Sulphur.»—Take 16 parts oil of turpentine; 2 1/2 parts spirits of turpentine; 8 parts flour of sulphur.
Place all in a chemical pot and heat until it boils; continue the boiling until no sulphur can be seen in it; now remove from the heat and thin it with turpentine until about the thickness of treacle, then warm it again, stirring well; allow it to cool until it reaches 45° F., then test it with the hydrometer, and if specific gravity is not 995 continue the addition of turpentine and warming until correct, let it thoroughly cool, then bottle, keeping it air-tight.
«To Purify Bismuth.»—Take 6 parts bismuth metal, 3/4 part saltpeter. Melt together in a biscuit cup, pour out on to a slab, and take away all dirt, then grind into a fine powder.
«To Recover the Gold from the Remains of the Foregoing Process.»—Put all the “watery” solutions into a large vessel and mix with a filtered saturated solution of copperas; this will cause {381} a precipitate of pure metallic gold to gradually subside; wash it with cold water and dry in an evaporating dish.
All rags and settlings that are thick should be burnt in a crucible until a yellow mass is seen; then take this and dissolve it in 2 parts muriatic acid and 1 part nitric acid. Let it remain in a porcelain dish until it begins to thicken, and crystals form on the sides. Add a little nitric acid, and heat until crystals again form. Now take this and mix with cold water, add a solution of copperas to it and allow it to settle; pour off the water, and with fresh water wash till quite free from acid. The gold may then be used again, and if great care is exercised almost one-half the original quantity may be recovered.
The quantities given in the recipe should produce about 13 to 15 parts of the liquid gold. It does not in use require any burnishing, and should be fired at rose-color heat. If desired it can be fluxed with Venice turpentine, oil of lavender, or almonds.
«Treatment of Brittle Gold.»—I.—Add to every 100 parts, by weight, 5 to 8 parts, by weight, of cupric chloride and melt until the oily layer which forms has disappeared. Then pour out, and in most cases a perfectly pliable gold will have been obtained. If this should not be the case after the first fusion, repeat the operation with the same quantity of cupric chloride. The cupric chloride must be kept in a well-closed bottle, made tight with paraffine, and in a dry place.
II.—Pass chlorine gas through the molten gold, by which treatment most of the gold which has otherwise been set aside as unfit for certain kinds of work may be redeemed.
«Assaying of Gold.»—To determine the presence of gold in ores, etc., mix a small quantity of the finely powdered ore in a flask with an equal volume of tincture of iodine, shake repeatedly and well, and leave in contact about 1 hour, with repeated shaking. Next allow the mixture to deposit and dip a narrow strip of filtering paper into the solution. Allow the paper to absorb, next to dry; then dip it again into the solution, repeating this 5 to 6 times, so that the filtering paper is well saturated and impregnated. The strip is now calcined, as it were, and the ashes, if gold is present, show a purple color. The coloring disappears immediately if the ashes are moistened with bromine water. The same test may also be modified as follows: Cover the finely pulverized ore with bromine water, shake well and repeatedly during about 1 hour of the contact, and filter. Now add to the solution stannic protochloride in solution, whereby, in case gold is present, a purple color (gold purple of Cassius) will at once appear. In case the ore to be assayed contains sulphides, it is well to roast the ore previously, and should it contain lime carbonate, it is advisable to calcine the ore before in the presence of ammonium carbonate.
«Gold Welding.»—Gold may be welded together with any metal, if the right methods are employed, but best with copper. Some recipes for welding agents are here given.
I.—Two parts by weight (16 ounces equal 1 pound) of green vitriol; 1 part by weight (16 ounces equal 1 pound) of saltpeter; 6 parts by weight (16 ounces equal 1 pound) of common salt; 1 part by weight (16 ounces equal 1 pound) of black manganic oxide or pulverized, and mixed with 48 parts by weight (16 ounces equal 1 pound) of good welding sand.
II.—Filings of the metal to be used in welding are mixed with melted borax in the usual proportion. To be applied in the thickness desired.
III.—A mixture of 338 parts of sodium phosphate and 124 parts of boracic acid is used when the metal is at dark-red heat. The metal is then to be brought to a bright-red heat, and hammered at the same time. The metal easily softens at a high temperature, and a wooden mallet is best. All substances containing carbon should be removed from the surface, as success depends upon the formation of a fusible copper phosphate, which dissolves a thin layer of oxide on the surface, and keeps the latter in good condition for welding.
«To Recover Gold-Leaf Waste.»—To recover the gold from color waste, gold brushes, rags, etc., they are burned up to ashes. The ashes are leached with boiling water containing hydrochloric acid. The auriferous residuum is then boiled with aqua regia (1 part nitric acid and 3 parts hydrochloric acid), whereby the gold is dissolved and gold chloride results. After filtration and evaporation to dryness the product is dissolved in water and precipitated with sulphate of protoxide of iron. The precipitated gold powder is purified with hydrochloric acid.
«Gold from Acid Coloring Baths.»—I.—Different lots are to be poured together {382} and the gold in them recovered. The following method is recommended: Dissolve a handful of phosphate of iron in boiling water, to which liquor add the coloring baths, whereby small particles of gold are precipitated. Then draw off the water, being careful not to dissolve the auriferous sediment at the bottom. Free this from all traces of acid by washing with plenty of boiling water; it will require 3 or 4 separate washings, with sufficient time between each to allow the water to cool and the sediment to settle before pouring off the water. Then dry in an iron vessel by the fire and fuse in a covered skittlepot with a flux.
II.—The collected old coloring baths are poured into a sufficiently large pot, an optional quantity of nitro-muriatic acid is added, and the pot is placed over the fire, during which time the fluid is stirred with a wooden stick. It is taken from the fire after a while, diluted largely with rain water and filtered through coarse paper. The gold is recovered from the filtered solution with a solution of green vitriol which is stored in air-tight bottles, then freshened with hot water, and finally smelted with borax and a little saltpeter.
«Parting with Concentrated Sulphuric Acid.»—It is not necessary scrupulously to observe the exact proportion of the gold to the silver. After having prepared the auriferous silver, place it in a quantity of concentrated sulphuric acid contained in a porcelain vessel, and let it come to a violent boil. When the acid has either become saturated and will dissolve no more, or when solution is complete, remove the dissolving vessel from the fire, let it cool, and, for the purpose of clarifying, pour dilute sulphuric acid into the solution. The dissolved silver is next carefully decanted from the gold sediment upon the bottom, another portion of concentrated acid is poured in, and the gold is well boiled again, as it will still contain traces of silver; this operation may be repeated as often as is deemed necessary. The solution, poured into the glass jars, is well diluted with water, and the silver is then precipitated by placing a sheet of copper in the solution. The precipitate is then freshened with hot water, which may also be done by washing upon the filter; the granulated silver (sulphate of silver) is pressed out in linen, dried and smelted. The freshened gold, after drying, is first smelted with bisulphate of soda, in order to convert the last traces of silver into sulphate, and then smelted with borax and a little saltpeter.
«To Remove Gold from Silver.»—I.—Gold is taken from the surface of silver by spreading over it a paste, made of powdered sal ammoniac with aqua fortis and heating it till the matter smokes and is nearly dry, when the gold may be separated by rubbing it with the scratch brush.
II.—The alloy is to be melted and poured from a height into a vessel of cold water, to which a rotary motion is imparted, or else it is to be poured through a broom. By this means the metal is reduced to a fine granular condition. The metallic substance is then treated with nitric acid, and gently heated. Nitrate of silver is produced, which can be reduced by any of the ordinary methods; while metallic gold remains as a black sediment, which must be washed and melted.
«Simple Specific Gravity Test.»—A certain quantity of the metal is taken and drawn out into a wire, which is to be exactly of the same length as one from fine silver; of course, both must have been drawn through the same hole, silver being nearly 1/2 lighter than gold, it is natural that the one of fine silver must be lighter, and the increased weight of the wire under test corresponds to the percentage of gold contained in it.
«To Make Fat Oil Gold Size.»—First thin up the fat oil with turpentine to workable condition; then mix a little very finely ground pigment with the gold size, about as much as in a thin priming coat. Make the size as nearly gold color as is convenient; chrome yellow tinted with vermilion is as good as anything for this purpose. Then thin ready for the brush with turpentine, and it will next be in order to run the size through a very fine strainer. Add japan, as experience or experiment may teach, to make it dry tacky about the time the leaf is to be laid. Dry slowly, because the slower the size dries, the longer it will hold its proper tackiness when it is once in that condition.
«To Dissolve Copper from Gold Articles.»—Take 2 ounces of proto-sulphate of iron and dissolve it in 1/2 a pint of water, then add to it in powder 2 ounces of nitrate of potash; boil the mixture for some time, and afterwards pour it into a shallow vessel to cool and crystallize; then to every part of the crystallized salt add 8 ounces of muriatic acid, and preserve in a bottle for use. Equal parts of the above preparation and of boiling water is a good proportion to use in dissolving copper, or 1 part by weight {383} of nitric acid may be used to 4 parts by weight of boiling water as a substitute.
«GOLD PURPLE.»
I.—The solution of stannous chloride necessary for the preparation of gold purple is produced by dissolving pure tin in pure hydrochloric acid (free from iron), in such a manner that some of the tin remains undissolved, and evaporating the solution, into which a piece of tin is laid, to crystallization.
II.—Recipe for Pale Purple.—Dissolve 2 parts by weight of tin in boiling aqua regia, evaporate the solution at a moderate heat until it becomes solid, dissolve in distilled water and add 2 parts by weight of a solution of stannous chloride (specific gravity 1.7) dilute with 9,856 parts by weight of water, stir into the liquid a solution of gold chloride prepared from 0.5 parts by weight of gold and containing no excess of acid (the latter being brought about by evaporating the solution of gold chloride to dryness and heating for some time to about 320° F.). This liquid is dimmed by the admixture of 50 parts by weight of liquid ammonia which eliminates the purple. The latter is quickly filtered off, washed out and while still moist rubbed up with the glass paste. This consists of enamel of lead 20 parts by weight; quartzose sand, 1 part by weight; red lead, 2 parts by weight; and calcined borax, 1 part by weight, with silver carbonate, 3 parts by weight.
III.—Recipe for Dark Gold Purple.—Gold solution of 0.5 parts by weight of gold, solution of stannous chloride (specific gravity 1.7) 7.5 parts by weight; thin with 9,856 parts by weight of water, separate the purple by a few drops of sulphuric acid, wash out the purple and mix same with enamel of lead 10 parts by weight and silver carbonate, 0.5 parts by weight.
IV.—Recipe for Pink Purple.—Gold solution of 1 part by weight of gold; solution of 50 parts by weight of alum in 19,712 parts by weight of water; add 1.5 parts by weight of stannous chloride solution (specific gravity 1.7) and enough ammonia until no more precipitate is formed; mix the washed out precipitate, while still moist, with 70 parts by weight of enamel of lead and 2.5 parts by weight of silver carbonate. According to the composition of the purple various reds are obtained in fusing it on; the latter may still be brightened up by a suitable increase of the flux.
«To Render Pale Gold Darker.»—Take verdigris, 50 parts by weight and very strong vinegar, 100 parts by weight. Dissolve the verdigris in the vinegar, rub the pieces with it well, heat them and dip them in liquid ammonia diluted with water. Repeat the operation if the desired shade does not appear the first time. Rinse with clean water and dry.
«To Color Gold.»—Gilt objects are improved by boiling in the following solution: Saltpeter, 2 parts by weight; cooking salt, 1 part by weight; alum, 1 part by weight; water, 24 parts by weight; hydrochloric acid, 1 part by weight (1.12 specific gravity). In order to impart a rich appearance to gilt articles, the following paste is applied: Alum, 3 parts by weight; saltpeter, 2 parts by weight; zinc vitriol, 1 part by weight; cooking salt, 1 part by weight; made into a paste with water. Next, heat until black, on a hot iron plate, wash with water, scratch with vinegar and dry after washing.
«Gold-Leaf Striping.»—To secure a good job of gilding depends largely for its beauty upon the sizing. Take tube chrome yellow ground in oil, thin with wearing body varnish, and temper it ready for use with turpentine. Apply in the evening with an ox-tail striper, and let it stand until the next morning, when, under ordinary circumstances, it will be ready for the gold leaf, etc. After the gilding is done, let the job stand 24 hours before varnishing.
«Composition of Aqua Fortis for the Touch-Stone.»—Following are the three compositions mostly in use: I.—Nitric acid, 30 parts; hydrochloric acid, 3 parts; distilled water, 20 parts.
II.—Nitric acid, 980 parts by weight; hydrochloric acid, 20 parts by weight.
III.—Nitric acid, 123 parts by weight; hydrochloric acid, 2 parts by weight.
«To Remove Soft Solder from Gold.»—Place the work in spirits of salts (hydrochloric acid) or remove as much as possible with the scraper, using a gentle heat to remove the solder more easily.
«Tipping Gold Pens.»—Gold pens are usually tipped with iridium. This is done by soldering very small pieces to the points and filing to the proper shape.
«To Recognize Whether an Article is Gilt.»—Simply touch the object with a glass rod previously dipped into a solution of bichloride of copper. If the article has been gilt the spot touched should remain intact, while it presents a {384} brown stain if no gold has been deposited on its surface.
«To Burnish Gilt Work.»—Ale has proved a very good substitute for soap and water in burnishing gilt as it increases the ease and smoothness with which it is accomplished. Vinegar is a somewhat poorer substitute for ale.
«White-Gold Plates Without Solder.»—The gold serving as a background for white-gold is rolled in the desired dimensions and then made perfectly even under a powerful press. It is then carefully treated with a file until a perfectly smooth surface is obtained. After a white-gold plate of the required thickness has been produced in the same manner, the surfaces of the two plates to be united are coated with borax and then pressed together by machine, which causes the harder metal to be squeezed slightly into the surface of the other, furnishing a more solid and compact mass. The metals, now partially united, are firmly fastened together by means of strong iron wire and a little more borax solution is put on the edges. Then heat to the temperature necessary for a complete adhesion, but the heat must not be so great as to cause an alloyage by fusing. The whole is finally rolled out into the required thickness.
«To Fuse Gold Dust.»—Use such a crucible as is generally used for melting brass; heat very hot; then add the gold dust mixed with powdered borax; after some time a scum or slag will be on top, which may be thickened by the addition of a little lime or bone ash. If the dust contains any of the more oxidizable metals, add a little niter, and skim off the slag or scum very carefully; when melted, grasp the crucible with strong iron tongs, and pour off immediately into molds, slightly greased. The slag and crucibles may be afterwards pulverized, and the auriferous matter recovered from the mass through cupellation by means of lead.
GOLD ALLOYS: See Alloys.
GOLD, EXTRACTION OF, BY AMALGAMATION: See Amalgams.
GOLD LETTERS ON GLASS, CEMENTS FOR AFFIXING: See Adhesives, under Sign-Letter Cements.
GOLD, REDUCTION OF OLD PHOTOGRAPHIC: See Photography.
GOLD FOIL SUBSTITUTES AND GOLD LEAF: See Metal Foil.
GOLD-LEAF ALLOYS: See Alloys.
GOLD LEAF AND ITS APPLICATION: See Paints.
GOLD PLATING: See Plating.
GOLD, RECOVERY OF WASTE: See Jewelers’ Formulas.
GOLD RENOVATOR: See Cleaning Preparations and Methods.
GOLD, SEPARATION OF PLATINUM FROM: See Platinum.
GOLD SOLDERS: See Solders.
GOLD TESTING: See Jewelers’ Formulas.
GOLD VARNISH: See Varnishes.
GOLDWASSER: See Wines and Liquors.
GONG METAL: See Alloys.
«GRAIN.»
«Formalin Treatment of Seed Grain for Smut.»—Smut is a parasitic fungus, and springs from a spore (which corresponds to a seed in higher plants). This germinates when the grain is seeded and, penetrating the little grain plant when but a few days old, grows up within the grain stem. After entering the stem there is no evidence of its presence until the grain begins to head. At this time the smut plant robs the developing kernels of their nourishment and ripens a mass of smut spores.
These spores usually ripen before the grain, and are blown about the field, many spores becoming lodged on the ripening grain kernels. The wholesale agent of infection is the threshing machine. For this reason the safest plan is to treat all seed wheat and oats each year.
Secure a 40 per cent solution of formalin (the commercial name for formaldehyde gas held in a water solution). About 1 ounce is required for every 5 bushels of grain to be treated. {385}
Clean off a space on the barn floor or sweep a clean space on the hard level ground and lay a good-sized canvas down, on which to spread out the wheat. See that the place where the grain is to be treated is swept clean and thoroughly sprinkled with the formalin solution before placing the seed grain there.
Prepare the formalin solution immediately before use, as it is volatile, and if kept may disappear by evaporation.
Use 4 ounces of formalin for 10 gallons of water. This is sufficient for 600 pounds of grain. Put the solution in a barrel or tub, thoroughly mixing.
The solution can be applied with the garden sprinkler. Care must be taken to moisten the grain thoroughly. Sprinkle, stir the grain up thoroughly and sprinkle again, until every kernel is wet.
After sprinkling, place the grain in a conical pile and cover with horse-blankets, gunny sacks, etc. The smut that does the damage lies just under the glume of the oats or on the basal hairs of the wheat. Covering the treated grain holds the gas from the formalin _within_ the pile, where it comes in contact with the kernels, killing such smut spores as may have survived the previous treatment. After the grain has remained in a covered pile 2 to 4 hours, spread it out again where the wind can blow over it, to air and dry.
As soon as the grain can be taken in the hand without the kernels sticking together, it can be sown in the field. The grain may be treated in the forenoon and seeded in the afternoon.
Since this treatment swells the kernels it hastens germination and should be done in the spring just before seeding time.
While the copper sulphate or bluestone treatment is valuable in killing smut, the formalin treatment can be given in less time, is applied so easily and is so effectual that it is recommended as a sure and ready means of killing smut in wheat and oats.
GRAINING CRAYONS: See Crayons.
GRAINING COLORS: See Pigments.
GRAINING WITH PAINT: See Paint.
GRAINING, PALISANDER: See Palisander.
GRAPE JUICE, PRESERVATION OF: See Wines and Liquors.
GRAPHITE AS A LUBRICANT: See Lubricants.
«GRAVEL WALKS.»
For cleaning gravel walks any of the following may be used: I.—Gas-tar liquor.
II.—Rock salt (cattle salt).
III.—Hydrochloric acid.
IV.—Sulphuric acid.
V.—Fresh limewater. The gas-tar liquor must be poured out a few times in succession, and must not touch the tree roots and borders of the paths. This medium is cheap. Cattle salt must likewise be thrown out repeatedly. The use of hydrochloric and sulphuric acids is somewhat expensive. Mix 60 parts of water with 10 parts of unslaked lime and 1 part of sulphuric acid in a kettle, and sprinkle the hot or cold mixture on the walks by means of a watering pot. If limewater is used alone it must be fresh—1 part of unslaked lime in 10 parts of water.
«GRAVERS:»
«To Prepare Gravers for Bright-Cutting.»—Set the gravers after the sharpening on the oilstone on high-grade emery (tripoli) paper. Next, hone them further on the rouge leather, but without tearing threads from it. In this manner the silver and aluminum engravers grind their gravers. A subsequent whetting of the graver on the touchstone is not advisable, since it is too easily injured thereby. A graver prepared as described gives excellent bright engraving and never fails.
In all bright-cutting the graver must be highly polished; but when bright-cutting aluminum a lubricant like coal-oil or vaseline is generally employed with the polished tool; a mixture of vaseline and benzine is also used for this purpose. Another formula which may be recommended for bright-cutting aluminum is composed of the following ingredients: Mix 4 parts of oil of turpentine and 1 part of rum with 1 ounce of stearine. Immerse the graver in any of the mixtures before making the bright-cut.
GREASES: See Lubricants.
GREASE ERADICATORS: See Cleaning Preparations and Methods. {386}
GREASE PAINTS: See Cosmetics.
GREEN, TO DISTINGUISH BLUE FROM, AT NIGHT: See Blue.
GREEN GILDING: See Plating.
GRENADES: See Fire Extinguishers.
GRINDING: See Tool Setting.
GRINDER DISK CEMENT, SUBSTITUTE FOR: See Adhesives.
«GRINDSTONES:»
«To Mend Grindstones.»—The mending of defective places in grindstones is best done with a mass consisting of earth-wax (so-called stone-pitch), 5 parts, by weight; tar, 1 part; and powdered sandstone or cement, 3 parts, which is heated to the boiling point and well stirred together. Before pouring in the mass the places to be mended must be heated by laying red-hot pieces of iron on them. The substance is, in a tough state, poured into the hollows of the stone, and the pouring must be continued, when it commences to solidify, until even with the surface.
«Treatment of the Grindstone.»—The stone should not be left with the lower part in the water. This will render it brittle at this spot, causing it to wear off more quickly and thus lose its circularity. It is best to moisten the stone only when in use, drop by drop from a vessel fixed above it and to keep it quite dry otherwise. If the stone is no longer round, it should be made so again by turning by means of a piece of gas pipe or careful trimming, otherwise it will commence to jump, thus becoming useless. It is important to clean all tools and articles before grinding, carefully removing all grease, fat, etc., as the pores of the stone become clogged with these impurities, which destroy its grain and diminish its strength. Should one side of the grindstone be lighter, this irregularity can be equalized by affixing pieces of lead, so as to obtain a uniform motion of the stone. It is essential that the stone should be firm on the axis and not move to and fro in the bearings.
«Grindstone Oil.»—Complaints are often heard that grindstones are occasionally harder on one side than the other, the softer parts wearing away in hollows, which render grinding difficult, and soon make the stone useless. This defect can be remedied completely by means of boiled linseed oil. When the stone is thoroughly dry, the soft side is turned uppermost, and brushed over with boiled oil, which sinks into the stone, until the latter is saturated. The operation takes about 3 to 4 hours in summer. As soon as the oil has dried, the stone may be damped, and used without any further delay. Unlike other similar remedies, this one does not prevent the stone from biting properly in the oiled parts, and the life of the stone is considerably lengthened, since it does not have to be dressed so often.
GROUNDS FOR GRAINING COLORS: See Pigments.
«GUMS:»
(See also Adhesives, under Mucilages.)
«Gums, their Solubility in Alcohol.»—The following table shows the great range of solubility of the various gums, and of various specimens of the same gum, in 60 per cent alcohol:
Acajon 6.94 to 42.92 Aden 0.60 to 26.90 Egyptian 46.34 Yellow Amrad 26.90 to 32.16 White Amrad 0.54 to 1.50 Kordofan 1.40 to 6.06 Australian 10.67 to 20.85 Bombay 22.06 to 46.14 Cape 1.67 to 1.88 Embavi 25.92 Gedda 1.24 to 1.30 Ghatti 31.60 to 70.32 Gheziereh 1.50 to 12.16 Halebi 3.70 to 22.60 La Plata 9.65 Mogadore 27.66 East Indian 3.24 to 74.84 Persian 1.74 to 17.34 Senegal 0.56 to 14.30
«Substitute for Gum Arabic.»—Dissolve 250 parts of glue in 1,000 parts of boiling water and heat this glue solution on the water bath with a mixture of about 10 parts of barium peroxide of 75 per cent BaO_〈2〉 and 5 parts of sulphuric acid (66°) mixed with 115 parts of water, for about 24 hours. After the time has elapsed, pour off from the barium sulphate, whereby a little sulphurous acid results owing to reduction of the sulphuric acid, which has a bleaching action and makes the glue somewhat paler. If this solution is mixed, with stirring, and dried upon glass plates in the drying-room, a product which can hardly be {387} distinguished from gum arabic is obtained. An envelope sealed with this mucilage cannot be opened by moistening the envelope. The traces of free acid which it contains prevent the invasion of bacteria, hence all putrefaction.
The adhesive power of the artificial gum is so enormous that the use of cork stoppers is quite excluded, since they crumble off every time the bottle is opened, so that finally a perfect wreath around the inner neck of the bottle is formed. Only metallic or porcelain stoppers should be used.
GUM ARABIC, INCREASING ADHESION OF: See Adhesives, under Mucilages.
GUM BICHROMATE PROCESS: See Photography.
GUM DROPS: See Confectionery.
GUM-LAC: See Oil.
GUMS USED IN MAKING VARNISH: See Varnishes.
GUN BARRELS, TO BLUE: See Steel.
GUN BRONZE: See Alloys, under Phosphor Bronze.
GUN COTTON: See Explosives.
GUN LUBRICANTS: See Lubricants.
GUNPOWDER: See Explosives.
«GUNPOWDER STAINS.»
A stain produced by the embedding of grains of gunpowder in the skin is practically the same thing as a tattoo mark. The charcoal of the gunpowder remains unaffected by the fluids of the tissues, and no way is known of bringing it into solution there. The only method of obliterating such marks is to take away with them the skin in which they are embedded. This has been accomplished by the application of an electric current, and by the use of caustics. When the destruction of the true skin has been accomplished, it becomes a foreign body, and if the destruction has extended to a sufficient depth, the other foreign body, the coloring matter which has been tattooed in, may be expected to be cast off with it.
Recently pepsin and papain have been proposed as applications to remove the cuticle. A glycerole of either is tattooed into the skin over the disfigured part; and it is said that the operation has proved successful.
It is scarcely necessary to say that suppuration is likely to follow such treatment, and that there is risk of scarring. In view of this it becomes apparent that any such operation should be undertaken only by a surgeon skilled in dermatological practice. An amateur might not only cause the patient suffering without success in removal, but add another disfigurement to the tattooing.
Carbolic acid has been applied to small portions of the affected area at a time, with the result that the powder and skin were removed simultaneously and, according to the physician reporting the case, with little discomfort to the patient.
Rubbing the affected part with moistened ammonium chloride once or twice a day has been reported as a slow but sure cure.
«GUTTA-PERCHA.»
«Gutta-Percha Substitute.»—I.—A decoction of birch bark is first prepared, the external bark by preference, being evaporated. The thick, black residue hardens on exposure to the air, and is said to possess the properties of gutta-percha without developing any cracks. It can be mixed with 50 per cent of India rubber or gutta-percha. The compound is said to be cheap, and a good non-conductor of electricity. Whether it possesses all the good qualities of gutta-percha is not known.
II.—A new method of making gutta-percha consists of caoutchouc and a rosin soap, the latter compounded of 100 parts of rosin, 100 parts of Carnauba wax, and 40 parts of gas-tar, melted together and passed through a sieve. They are heated to about 355° to 340° F., and slowly saponified by stirring with 75 parts of limewater of specific gravity 1.06. The product is next put into a kneading machine along with an equal quantity of caoutchouc cuttings, and worked in this machine at a temperature of 195° F. or over. When sufficiently kneaded, the mass can be rolled to render it more uniform.
GUTTER CEMENT: See Cement and Putty.
«GYPSUM:»
See also Plaster.
«Method of Hardening Gypsum and Rendering it Weather-Proof.»—Gypsum possesses only a moderate degree of strength even after complete hardening, {388} and pieces are very liable to be broken off. Various methods have been tried, with a view to removing this defect and increasing the hardness of gypsum. Of these methods, that of Wachsmuth, for hardening articles made of gypsum and rendering them weather-proof, deserves special notice. All methods of hardening articles made of gypsum have this in common: the gypsum is first deprived of its moisture, and then immersed in a solution of certain salts, such as alum, green vitriol, etc. Articles treated by the methods hitherto in vogue certainly acquire considerable hardness, but are no more capable of resistance to the effects of water than crude gypsum. The object of Wachsmuth’s process is not merely to harden the gypsum, but to transform it on the surface into insoluble combinations. The process is as follows: The article is first put into the required shape by mechanical means, and then deprived of its moisture by heating to 212° to 302° F. It is then plunged into a heated solution of barium hydrate, in which it is allowed to remain for a longer or shorter time, according to its strength. When this part of the process is complete, the article is smoothed by grinding, etc., and then placed in a solution of about 10 per cent of oxalic acid in water. In a few hours it is taken out, dried, and polished. It then possesses a hardness surpassing that of marble, and is impervious to the action of water. Nor does the polish sustain any injury from contact with water, whereas gypsum articles hardened by the usual methods lose their polish after a few minutes’ immersion in water. Articles treated by the method described have the natural color of gypsum, but it is possible to add a color to the gypsum during the hardening process. This is done by plunging the gypsum, after it has been deprived of its moisture, and before the treatment with the barium solution, into a solution of a colored metallic sulphate, such as iron, copper, or chrome sulphate, or into a solution of some coloring matter. Pigments soluble in the barium or oxalic-acid solutions may also be added to the latter.
Gypsum may be hardened and rendered insoluble by ammonium borate as follows: Dissolve boric acid in hot water and add sufficient ammonia water to the solution that the borate at first separated is redissolved. The gypsum to be cast is stirred in with this liquid, and the mass treated in the ordinary way. Articles already cast are simply washed with the liquid, which is quickly absorbed. The articles withstand the weather as well as though they were of stone.
GYPSUM FLOWERS: See Flowers.
GYPSUM, PAINT FOR: See Paint.
«HAIR FOR MOUNTING.»
The microscopist or amateur, who shaves himself, need never resort to the trouble of embedding and cutting hairs in the microtome in order to secure very thin sections of the hair of the face. If he will first shave himself closely “with the hair,” as the barbers say (i. e., in the direction of the natural growth of the hair), and afterwards lightly “against the hair” (in the opposite direction to above), he will find in the “scrapings” a multitude of exceedingly thin sections. The technique is very simple. The lather and “scrapings” are put into a saucer or large watch-glass and carefully washed with clean water. This breaks down and dissolves the lather, leaving the hair sections lying on the bottom of the glass. The after-treatment is that usually employed in mounting similar objects.
«Hair Preparations»
«DANDRUFF CURES.»
The treatment of that condition of the scalp which is productive of dandruff properly falls to the physician, but unfortunately the subject has not been much studied. One cure is said to be a sulphur lotion made by placing a little sublimed sulphur in water, shaking well, then allowing to settle, and washing the head every morning with the clear liquid.
Sulphur is said to be insoluble in water; yet a sulphur water made as above indicated has long been in use as a hair wash. A little glycerine improves the preparation, preventing the hair from becoming harsh by repeated washings.
The exfoliated particles of skin or “scales” should be removed only when entirely detached from the cuticle. They result from an irritation which is increased by forcible removal, and hence endeavors to clean the hair from them by combing or brushing it in such a way as to scrape the scalp are liable to be worse than useless. It follows that gentle handling of the hair is important when dandruff is present. {389}
I.—Chloral hydrate 2 ounces Resorcin 1 ounce Tannin 1 ounce Alcohol 8 ounces Glycerine 4 ounces Rose water to make 4 pints
II.—White wax 3 1/2 drachms Liquid petrolatum 2 1/2 ounces Rose water 1 ounce Borax 15 grains Precipitated sulphur 3 1/2 drachms
Pine-Tar Dandruff Shampoo.—
Pine tar 4 parts Linseed oil 40 parts
Heat these to 140° F.; make solution of potassa, U. S. P., 10 parts, and water, 45 parts; add alcohol, 5 parts, and gradually add to the heated oils, stirring constantly. Continue the heat until saponified thoroughly; and make up with water to 128 parts. When almost cool, add ol. lavender, ol. orange, and ol. bergamot, of each 2 parts.
«HAIR-CURLING LIQUIDS.»
It is impossible to render straight hair curly without the aid of the iron or paper and other curlers. But it is possible, on the other hand, to make artificial curls more durable and proof against outside influences, such as especially dampness of the air. Below are trustworthy recipes:
I II Water 70 80 Spirit of wine 30 20 Borax 2 — Tincture of benzoin — 3 Perfume ad. lib. ad. lib.
«HAIR DRESSINGS AND WASHES:»
Dressings for the Hair.—
I.—Oil of wintergreen. 20 drops Oil of almond, essential 35 drops Oil of rose, ethereal 1 drop Oil of violets 30 drops Tincture of cantharides 50 drops Almond oil 2,000 drops
Mix.
Hair Embrocation.—
II.—Almond oil, sweet 280 parts Spirit of sal ammoniac 280 parts Spirit of rosemary 840 parts Honey water 840 parts
Mix. Rub the scalp with it every morning by means of a sponge.
Hair Restorer.—
III.—Tincture of cantharides 7 parts Gall tincture 7 parts Musk essence 1 part Carmine 0.5 part Rectified spirit of wine 28 parts Rose water 140 parts
To be used at night.
Rosemary Water.—
IV.—Rosemary oil 1 1/2 parts Rectified spirit of wine 7 parts Magnesia 7 parts Distilled water 1,000 parts
Mix the oil with the spirit of wine and rub up with the magnesia in a mortar; gradually add the water and finally filter.
Foamy Scalp Wash.—Mix 2 parts of soap spirit, 1 part of borax-glycerine (1+2), 6 parts of barium, and 7 parts of orange-flower water.
Lanolin Hair Wash.—Extract 4 parts quillaia bark with 36 parts water for several days, mix the percolate with 4 parts alcohol, and filter after having settled. Agitate 40 parts of the filtrate at a temperature at which wool grease becomes liquid, with 12 parts anhydrous lanolin, and fill up with water to which 15 per cent spirit of wine has been added, to 300 parts. Admixture, such as cinchona extract, Peru balsam, quinine, tincture of cantharides, bay-oil, ammonium carbonate, menthol, etc., may be made. The result is a yellowish-white, milky liquid, with a cream-like fat layer floating on the top, which is finely distributed by agitating.
Birch Water.—Birch water, which has many cosmetic applications, especially as a hair wash or an ingredient in hair washes, may be prepared as follows:
Alcohol, 96 per cent 3,500 parts Water 700 parts Potash soap 200 parts Glycerine 150 parts Oil of birch buds 50 parts Essence of spring flowers 100 parts Chlorophyll, q. s. to color.
Mix the water with 700 parts of the alcohol, and in the mixture dissolve the soap. Add the essence of spring flowers and birch oil to the remainder of the alcohol, mix well, and to the mixture add, little by little, and with constant agitation, the soap mixture. Finally {390} add the glycerine, mix thoroughly, and set aside for 8 days, filter and color the filtrate with chlorophyll, to which add a little tincture of saffron. To use, add an equal volume of water to produce a lather.
Petroleum Hair Washes.—I.—Deodorized pale petroleum, 10 parts; citronella oil, 10 parts; castor oil, 5 parts; spirit of wine, 90 per cent, 50 parts; water, 75 parts.
II.—Quinine sulphate, 10 parts; acetic acid, 4 parts; tincture of cantharides, 30 parts; tincture of quinine, 3 parts; spirit of rosemary, 60 parts; balm water, 90 parts; barium, 120 parts; spirit of wine, 150 parts; water, 1,000 parts.
III.—Very pure petroleum, 1 part; almond oil, 2 parts.
Brilliantine.—I.—Olive oil, 4 parts; glycerine, 3 parts; alcohol, 3 parts; scent as desired. Shake before use.
II.—Castor oil, 1 part; alcohol, 2 parts; saffron to dye yellow. Scent as desired.
III.—Lard, 7 parts; spermaceti, 7 parts; almond oil, 7 parts; white wax, 1 part.
A Cheap Hair Oil.—I.—Sesame oil or sunflower oil, 1,000 parts; lavender oil, 15 parts; bergamot oil, 10 parts; and geranium oil, 5 parts.
II.—Sesame oil or sunflower oil, 1,000 parts; lavender oil, 12 parts; lemon oil, 20 parts; rosemary oil, 5 parts; and geranium oil, 2 parts.
«HAIR DYES.»
There is no hair dye which produces a durable coloration; the color becomes gradually weaker in the course of time. Here are some typical formulas in which a mordant is employed:
I.—Nitrate of silver 1/2 ounce Distilled water 3 ounces
Mordant:
Sulphuret of potassium 1/2 ounce Distilled water 3 ounces
II.—
(_a_) Nitrate of silver (crystal) 1 1/2 ounces Distilled water 12 ounces Ammonia water sufficient to make a clear solution.
Dissolve the nitrate of silver in the water and add the ammonia water until the precipitate is redissolved.
(_b_) Pyrogallic acid 2 drachms Gallic acid 2 drachms Cologne water 2 ounces Distilled water 4 ounces
III.—Nitrate of silver 20 grains Sulphate of copper 2 grains Ammonia, quantity sufficient.
Dissolve the salts in 1/2 ounce of water and add ammonia until the precipitate which is formed is redissolved, Then make up to 1 ounce with water. Apply to the hair with a brush. This solution slowly gives a brown shade. For darker shades, apply a second solution, composed of:
IV.—Yellow sulphide ammonium 2 drachms Solution of ammonia 1 drachm Distilled water 1 ounce
Black Hair Dye without Silver.—
V.—Pyrogallic acid 3.5 parts Citric acid 0.3 parts Boro-glycerine 11 parts Water 100 parts
If the dye does not impart the desired intensity of color, the amount of pyrogallic acid may be increased. The wash is applied evenings, followed in the morning by a weak ammoniacal wash.
One Bottle Preparation.—
VI.—Nitrate of copper 360 grains Nitrate of silver 7 ounces Distilled water 60 ounces Water of ammonia, a sufficiency.
Dissolve the salts in the water and add the water of ammonia carefully until the precipitate is all redissolved. This solution, properly applied, is said to produce a very black color; a lighter shade is secured by diluting the solution. Copper sulphate may be used instead of the nitrate.
Brown Hair Dyes.—A large excess of ammonia tends to produce a brownish dye. Various shades of brown may be produced by increasing the amount of water in the silver solution. It should be remembered that the hair must, previously to treatment, be washed with warm water containing sodium carbonate, well rinsed with clear water, and dried.
I.—Silver nitrate 480 grains Copper nitrate 90 grains Distilled water 8 fluidounces Ammonia water, sufficient.
Dissolve the two salts in the distilled water and add the ammonia water until the liquid becomes a clear fluid.
In using apply to the hair carefully {391} with a tooth-brush, after thoroughly cleansing the hair, and expose the latter to the rays of the sun.
II.—Silver nitrate 30 parts Copper sulphate, crystals 20 parts Citric acid 20 parts Distilled water 950 parts Ammonia water, quantity sufficient to dissolve the precipitate first formed.
Various shades of brown may be produced by properly diluting the solution before it be applied.
Bismuth subnitrate 200 grains Water 2 fluidounces Nitric acid, sufficient to dissolve, or about 420 grains
Use heat to effect solution. Also:
Tartaric acid 150 grains Sodium bicarbonate 168 grains Water 32 fluidounces
When effervescence of the latter has ceased, mix the cold liquids by pouring the latter into the former with constant stirring. Allow the precipitate to subside; transfer it to a filter or strainer, and wash with water until free from the sodium nitrate formed.
Chestnut Hair Dye.—
Bismuth nitrate 230 grains Tartaric acid 75 grains Water 100 minims
Dissolve the acid in the water, and to the solution add the bismuth nitrate and stir until dissolved. Pour the resulting solution into 1 pint of water and collect the magma on a filter. Remove all traces of acid from the magma by repeated washings with water; then dissolve it in:
Ammonia water 2 fluidrachms
And add:
Glycerine 20 minims Sodium hyposulphite 75 grains Water, enough to make 4 fluidounces.
«HAIR RESTORERS AND TONICS:»
«Falling of the Hair.»—After the scalp has been thoroughly cleansed by the shampoo, the following formula is to be used:
Salicylic acid 1 part Precipitate of sulphur 2 1/2 parts Rose water 25 parts
The patient is directed to part the hair, and then to rub in a small portion of the ointment along the part, working it well into the scalp. Then another part is made parallel to the first, and more ointment rubbed in. Thus a series of first, longitudinal, and then transverse parts are made, until the whole scalp has been well anointed. Done in this way, it is not necessary to smear up the whole shaft of the hair, but only to reach the hair roots and the sebaceous glands, where the trouble is located. This process is thoroughly performed for six successive nights, and the seventh night another shampoo is taken. The eighth night the inunctions are commenced again, and this is continued for six weeks. In almost every case the production of dandruff is checked completely after six weeks’ treatment, and the hair, which may have been falling out rapidly before, begins to take firmer root. To be sure, many hairs which are on the point of falling when treatment is begun will fall anyway, and it may even seem for a time as if the treatment were increasing the hair-fall, on account of the mechanical dislodgment of such hairs, but this need never alarm one.
After six weeks of such treatment the shampoo may be taken less frequently.
Next to dandruff, perhaps, the most common cause of early loss of hair is heredity. In some families all of the male members, or all who resemble one particular ancestor, lose their hair early. Dark-haired families and races, as a rule, become bald earlier than those with light hair. At first thought it would seem as though nothing could be done to prevent premature baldness when heredity is the cause, but this is a mistake. Careful hygiene of the scalp will often counterbalance hereditary predisposition for a number of years, and even after the hair has actually begun to fall proper stimulation will, to a certain extent, and for a limited time, often restore to the hair its pristine thickness and strength. Any of the rubefacients may be prescribed for this purpose for daily use, such as croton oil, 1 1/2 per cent; tincture of cantharides, 15 per cent; oil of cinnamon, 40 per cent; tincture of capsicum, 15 per cent; oil of mustard, 1 per cent; or any one of a dozen others. Tincture of capsicum is one of the best, and for a routine prescription the following has served well:
Resorcin 5 parts Tincture capsicum 15 parts Castor oil 10 parts Alcohol 100 parts Oil of roses, sufficient.
{392}
It is to be recommended that the stimulant be changed from time to time, so as not to rely on any one to the exclusion of others. Jaborandi, oxygen gas, quinine, and other agents have enjoyed a great reputation as hair-producers for a time, and have then taken their proper position as aids, but not specifics, in restoring the hair.
It is well known that after many fevers, especially those accompanied by great depression, such as pneumonia, typhoid, puerperal, or scarlet fever, the hair is liable to fall out. This is brought about in a variety of ways: In scarlatina, the hair papilla shares in the general desquamation; in typhoid and the other fevers the baldness may be the result either of the excessive seborrhea, which often accompanies these diseases, or may be caused by the general lowering of nutrition of the body. Unless the hair-fall be accompanied by considerable dandruff (in which case the above-mentioned treatment should be vigorously employed), the ordinary hygiene of the scalp will result in a restoration of the hair in most cases, but the employment of moderate local stimulation, with the use of good general tonics, will hasten this end. It seems unwise to cut the hair of women short in these cases, because the baldness is practically never complete, and a certain proportion of the hairs will retain firm root. These may be augmented by a switch made of the hair which has fallen out, until the new hair shall have grown long enough to do up well. In this way all of that oftentimes most annoying short-hair period is avoided.
«For Falling Hair.»—
I.—Hydrochloric acid 75 parts Alcohol 2,250 parts
The lotion is to be applied to the scalp every evening at bedtime.
II.—Tincture of cinchona 1 part Tincture of rosemary 1 part Tincture of jaborandi 1 part Castor oil 2 parts Rum 10 parts
Mix.
«Jaborandi Scalp Waters for Increasing the Growth of Hair.»—First prepare a jaborandi tincture from jaborandi leaves, 200 parts; spirit, 95 per cent, 700 parts; and water, 300 parts. After digesting for a week, squeeze out the leaves and filter the liquid. The hair wash is now prepared as follows:
I.—Jaborandi tincture, 1,000 parts: spirit, 95 per cent, 700 parts; water, 300 parts; glycerine, 150 parts; scent essence, 100 parts; color with sugar color.
II.—Jaborandi tincture, 1,000 parts: spirit, 95 per cent, 1,500 parts; quinine tannate, 4 parts; Peru balsam, 20 parts; essence heliotrope, 50 parts. Dissolve the quinine and the Peru balsam in the spirit and then add the jaborandi tincture and the heliotrope essence. Filter after a week. Rub into the scalp twice a week before retiring.
«POMADES:»
I.—Cinchona Pomade.—
Ox marrow 100 drachms Lard 70 drachms Sweet almond oil 17 drachms Peru balsam 1 drachm Quinine sulphate 1 drachm Clover oil 2 drachms Rose essence 25 drops
II.—Cantharides Pomade.—
Ox marrow 300 drachms White wax 30 drachms Mace oil 1 drachm Clove oil 1 drachm Rose essence or geranium oil 25 drops Tincture of cantharides 8 drachms
Pinaud Eau de Quinine.—The composition of this nostrum is not known. Dr. Tsheppe failed to find in it any constituent of cinchona bark. The absence of quinine from the mixture probably would not hurt it, as the “tonic” effect of quinine on the hair is generally regarded as a myth.
On the other hand, it has been stated that this preparation contains:
Quinine sulphate 2 parts Tincture of krameria 4 parts Tincture of cantharides 2 parts Spirit of lavender 10 parts Glycerine 15 parts Alcohol 100 parts
«SHAMPOOS:»
A Hair Shampoo is usually a tincture of odorless soft soap. It is mostly perfumed with lavender and colored with green aniline. Prepared the same as tr. sapon. virid. (U. S. P.), using an inexpensive soft soap, that is a good foam producer. Directions: Wet the hair well in warm water and rub in a few teaspoonfuls of the following formulas. No. I is considered the best: {393}
I II III IV Parts used Cottonseed oil — 24 26 14 Linseed oil 20 — — — Malaga olive oil 20 — — — Caustic potash 9 1/2 8 6 3 Alcohol 5 4 1/2 5 2 Water 30 26 34 16 1/2
Warm the mixed oils on a large water bath, then the potash and water in another vessel, heating both to 158° F., and adding the latter hot solution to the hot oil while stirring briskly. Now add and thoroughly mix the alcohol. Stop stirring, keeping the heat at 158° F., until the mass becomes clear and a small quantity dissolves in boiling water without globules of oil separating. If stirred after the alcohol has been mixed the soap will be opaque. Set aside for a few days in a warm place before using to make liquid shampoo.
Liquid Shampoos.—
I.—Fluid extract of soap-bark 10 parts Glycerine 5 parts Cologne water 10 parts Alcohol 20 parts Rose water 30 parts
II.—Soft soap 24 parts Potassium carbonate 5 parts Alcohol 48 parts Water enough to make 400 parts
Shampoo Pastes.—
I.—White castile soap, in shavings 2 ounces Ammonia water 2 fluidounces Bay rum, or cologne water 1 fluidounce Glycerine 1 fluidounce Water 12 fluidounces
Dissolve the soap in the water by means of heat; when nearly cold stir in the other ingredients.
II.—Castile soap, white 4 ounces Potassium carbonate 1 ounce Water 6 fluidounces Glycerine 2 fluidounces Oil of lavender flowers 5 drops Oil of bergamot 10 drops
To the water add the soap, in shavings, and the potassium carbonate, and heat on a water bath until thoroughly softened; add the glycerine and oils. If necessary to reduce to proper consistency, more water may be added.
Egg Shampoo.—
Whites of 2 eggs Water 5 fluidounces Water of ammonia 3 fluidounces Cologne water 1/3 fluidounce Alcohol 4 fluidounces
Beat the egg whites to a froth, and add the other ingredients in the order in which they are named, with a thorough mixing after each addition.
Imitation Egg Shampoos.—Many of the egg shampoos are so called from their appearance. They usually contain no egg and are merely preparations of perfumed soft soap. Here are some formulas:
I.—White castile soap 4 ounces Powdered curd soap 2 ounces Potassium carbonate 1 ounce Honey 1 ounce
Make a homogeneous paste by heating with water.
II.—Melt 3 1/2 pounds of lard over a salt-water bath and run into it a lye formed by dissolving 8 ounces of caustic potassa in 1 1/2 pints of water. Stir well until saponification is effected and perfume as desired.
HAIR REMOVERS: See Depilatories.
HAMBURG BITTERS: See Wines and Liquors.
HAMMER HARDENING: See Steel.
HAND CREAMS: See Cosmetics.
HANDS, TO REMOVE STAINS FROM THE: See Cleaning Preparations.
HARE-LIP OPERATION, ANTISEPTIC PASTE FOR: See Antiseptics.
HARNESS DRESSINGS AND PREPARATIONS: See Leather Dressings.
HARNESS WAX: See Waxes.
HAT-CLEANING COMPOUNDS: See Cleaning Compounds.
HAT WATERPROOFING: See Waterproofing. {394}
«HATS:»
«Dyeing Straw Hats.»—The plan generally followed is that of coating the hats with a solution of varnish in which a suitable aniline dye has dissolved. The following preparations are in use:
I.—For dark varnishes prepare a basis consisting of orange shellac, 900 parts; sandarac, 225 parts; Manila copal, 225 parts; castor oil, 55 parts; and wood-spirit, 9,000 parts. To color, add to the foregoing amount alcohol-soluble, coal-tar dyes as follows: Black, 55 parts of soluble ivory-black (modified by blue or green). Olive-brown, 15 parts of brilliant-green, 55 parts of Bismarck brown R, 8 parts of spirit blue. Olive-green, 28 parts of brilliant-green, 28 parts of Bismarck-brown R. Walnut, 55 parts of Bismarck-brown R, 15 parts of nigrosin. Mahogany, 28 parts of Bismarck-brown R, which may be deepened by a little nigrosin.
II.—For light colors prepare a varnish as follows: Sandarac, 1,350 parts; elemi, 450 parts; rosin, 450 parts; castor oil, 110 parts; wood-spirit, 9,000 parts. For this amount use dyes as follows: Gold, 55 parts of chrysoidin, 55 parts of aniline-yellow. Light green, 55 parts of brilliant-green, 7 parts of aniline-yellow. Blue, 55 parts of spirit blue. Deep blue, 55 parts of spirit blue, 55 parts of indulin. Violet, 28 parts of methyl-violet, 3 B. Crimson, 55 parts of safranin. Chestnut, 55 parts of safranin, 15 parts of indulin.
III.—Shellac 4 ounces Sandarac 1 ounce Gum thus 1 ounce Methyl spirit 1 pint
In this dissolve aniline dyes of the requisite color, and apply. For white straw, white shellac must be used.
«To Extract Shellac from Fur Hats.»—
Use the common solvents, as carbon bisulphide, benzine, wood alcohol, turpentine, and so forth, reclaiming the spirit and shellac by a suitable still.
«HEADACHE REMEDIES:»
See also Pain Killers.
«Headache Cologne.»—As a mitigant of headache, cologne water of the farina type is refreshing.
Oil of neroli 6 drachms Oil of rosemary 3 drachms Oil of bergamot 3 drachms Oil of cedrat 7 drachms Oil of orange peel 7 drachms Deodorized alcohol 1 gallon
To secure a satisfactory product from the foregoing formula it is necessary to look carefully to the quality of the oils. Oil of cedrat is prone to change, and oil of orange peel, if exposed to the atmosphere for a short time, becomes worthless, and will spoil the other materials.
A delightful combination of the acetic odor with that of cologne water may be had by adding to a pint of the foregoing, 2 drachms of glacial acetic acid. The odor so produced may be more grateful to some invalids than the neroli and lemon bouquet.
Still another striking variation of the cologne odor, suitable for the use indicated, may be made by adding to a pint of cologne water an ounce of ammoniated alcohol.
«Liquid Headache Remedies.»—
Acetanilid 60 grains Alcohol 4 fluidrachms Ammonium carbonate 30 grains Water 2 fluidrachms Simple elixir to make 2 fluidounces
Dissolve the acetanilid in the alcohol, the ammonium carbonate in the water, mix each solution with a portion of the simple elixir, and mix the whole together.
HEAT-INDICATING PAINT: See Paint.
HEAT INSULATION: See Insulation.
HEAT, PRICKLY: See Household Formulas.
HEAT-RESISTANT LACQUERS: See Lacquers.
HEAVES: See Veterinary Formulas.
«HEDGE MUSTARD.»
Hedge mustard (erysimum) was at one time a popular remedy in France for hoarseness, and is still used in country districts, but is not often prescribed.
Liquid ammonia 10 drops Syrup of erysimum 1 1/2 ounces Infusion of lime flowers 3 ounces
To be taken at one dose.
«HERBARIUM SPECIMENS, MOUNTING.»
A matter of first importance, after drying the herbarium specimens, is to poison them, to prevent the attacks of insects. This is done by brushing them over on both sides, using a camel’s-hair pencil, with a solution of 2 grains of {395} corrosive sublimate to an ounce of methylated spirit. In tropical climates the solution is generally used of twice this strength. There are several methods of mounting them. Leaves with a waxy surface and coriaceous texture are best stitched through the middle after they have been fastened on with an adhesive mixture. Twigs of leguminous trees will often throw off their leaflets in drying. This may, in some measure, be prevented by dipping them in boiling water before drying, or if the leaves are not very rigid, by using strong pressure at first, without the use of hot water. If the specimens have to be frequently handled, the most satisfactory preparation is Lepage’s fish glue, but a mixture of glue and paste, with carbolic acid added, is used in some large herbaria. The disadvantage of using glue, gum, or paste is that it is necessary to have some of the leaves turned over so as to show the under surface of the leaf, and some of the flowers and seeds placed loose in envelopes on the same sheet for purposes of comparison or microscopic examination. Another plan is to use narrow slips of gummed stiff but thin paper, such as very thin parchment paper. These strips are either gummed over the stems, etc., and pinched in round the stem with forceps, or passed through slits made in the sheet and fastened at the back. If the specimens are mounted on cards and protected in glass frames, stitching in the principal parts with gray thread produces a very satisfactory appearance.
«Hectograph Pads and Inks»
The hectograph is a gelatin pad used for duplicating letters, etc., by transfer. The pad should have a tough elastic consistency, similar to that of a printer’s roller. The letter or sketch to be duplicated is written or traced on a sheet of heavy paper with an aniline ink (which has great tinctorial qualities). When dry this is laid, inked side down, on the pad and subjected to moderate and uniform pressure for a few minutes. It may then be removed, when a copy of the original will be found on the pad which has absorbed a large quantity of the ink. The blank sheets are laid one by one on the pad, subjected to moderate pressure over the whole surface with a wooden or rubber roller, or with the hand, and lifted off by taking hold of the corners and stripping them gently with an even movement. If this is done too quickly the composition may be torn. Each succeeding copy thus made will be a little fainter than its predecessor. From 40 to 60 legible copies may be made. When the operation is finished the surface of the pad should be gone over gently with a wet sponge and the remaining ink soaked out. The superfluous moisture is then carefully wiped off, when the pad will be ready for another operation.
The pad or hectograph is essentially a mixture of glue (gelatin) and glycerine. This mixture has the property of remaining soft yet firm for a long time and of absorbing and holding certain coloring matters in such a way as to give them up slowly or in layers, so to speak, on pressure.
Such a pad may be made by melting together 1 part of glue, 2 parts of water and 4 parts of glycerine (all by weight, of course), evaporating some of the water and tempering the mixture with more glue or glycerine if the season or climate require. The mass when of proper consistency, which can be ascertained by cooling a small portion, is poured into a shallow pan and allowed to set. Clean glue must be used or the mixture strained; and air bubbles should be removed by skimming the surface with a piece of card-board or similar appliance.
Variations of this formula have been proposed, some of which are appended:
I.—Glycerine 12 ounces Gelatin 2 ounces Water 7 1/2 ounces Sugar 2 ounces
II.—Water 10 ounces Dextrin 1 1/2 ounces Sugar 2 ounces Gelatin 15 ounces Glycerine 15 ounces Zinc oxide 1 1/2 ounces
III.—Gelatin 10 ounces Water 40 ounces Glycerine 120 ounces Barium sulphate 8 ounces
The Tokacs patent composition, besides the usual ingredients, such as gelatin, glycerine, sugar, and gum, contains soap, and can therefore be washed off much easier for new use. The smoothness of the surface is also increased, without showing more sticking capacity with the first impressions.
«Hectograph Inks» (see also Inks).—The writing to be copied by means of the hectograph is done on good paper with an aniline ink. Formulas for suitable ones are appended. It is said that more copies can be obtained from writing with the purple ink than with other kinds: {396}
Purple.—
I.—Methyl violet 2 parts Alcohol 2 parts Sugar 1 part Glycerine 4 parts Water 24 parts
Dissolve the violet in the alcohol mixed with the glycerine; dissolve the sugar in the water; mix both solutions.
II.—A good purple hectograph ink is made as follows: Dissolve 1 part methyl violet in 8 parts of water and add 1 part of glycerine. Gently warm the solution for an hour, and add, when cool, 1/4 part alcohol. Or take methyl violet, 1 part; water, 7 parts; and glycerine, 2 parts.
Black.—
Methyl violet 10 parts Nigrosin 20 parts Glycerine 30 parts Gum arabic 5 parts Alcohol 60 parts
Blue.—
Resorcin blue M 10 parts Dilute acetic acid 1 part Water 85 parts Glycerine 4 parts Alcohol 10 parts
Dissolve by heat.
Red.—
Fuchsin 10 parts Alcohol 10 parts Glycerine 10 parts Water 50 parts
Green.—
Aniline green, water soluble 15 parts Glycerine 10 parts Water 50 parts Alcohol 10 parts
«Repairing Hectographs.»—Instead of remelting the hectograph composition, which is not always successful, it is recommended to pour alcohol over the surface of the cleaned mass and to light it. After solidifying, the surface will be again ready for use.
HEMORRHOIDS: See Piles.
HERB VINEGAR: See Vinegar.
HIDES: See Leather.
HIDE BOUND: See Veterinary Formulas.
HIDE-CLEANING PROCESSES: See Cleaning Preparations and Methods.
HOARHOUND CANDY: See Confectionery.
HOARSENESS, CREAM BON-BONS FOR: See Confectionery.
HOARSENESS, REMEDY FOR: See Cough and Cold Mixtures and Turpentine.
«HONEY:»
«Honey Clarifier.»—For 3,000 parts of fresh honey, take 875 parts of water, 150 parts of washed, dried, and pulverized charcoal, 70 parts of powdered chalk, and the whites of 3 eggs beaten in 90 parts of water. Put the honey and the chalk in a vessel capable of containing 1/3 more than the mixture and boil for 3 minutes; then introduce the charcoal and stir up the whole. Add the whites of the eggs while continuing to stir, and boil again for 3 minutes. Take from the fire, and after allowing the liquid to cool for a quarter of an hour, filter, and to secure a perfectly clear liquid refilter on flannel.
«Detecting Dyed Honey.»—For the detection of artificial yellow dyestuff in honey, treat the aqueous yellow solution with hydrochloric acid, as well as with ammonia; also extract the dyestuff from the acid or ammoniacal solution by solvents, such as alcohol or ether, or conduct the Arata wool test in the following manner: Dissolve 10 parts of honey in 50 parts of water, mix with 10 parts of a 10 per cent potassium-bisulphate solution and boil the woolen thread in this liquid for 10 minutes.
HONEY WINE: See Mead.
HONING: See Whetstones.
HOOF SORES: See Veterinary Formulas.
HOP BITTER BEER: See Beverages.
HOP SYRUP: See Essences and Extracts.
«HORN:»
«Artificial Horn.»—To prepare artificial horn from compounds of nitro-cellulose and casein, by hardening them and removing their odor of camphor, the compounds are steeped in formaldehyde from several hours to as many days, {397} according to the thickness of the object treated. When the formaldehyde has penetrated through the mass and dissolved the camphor, the object is taken out of the liquid and dried. Both the camphor extracted and the formaldehyde used can be recovered by distillation, and used over again, thus cheapening the operation.
«Dehorners or Horn Destroyers.»—The following are recommended by the Board of Agriculture of Great Britain:
Clip the hair from the top of the horn when the calf is from 2 to 5 days old. Slightly moisten the end of a stick of caustic potash with water or saliva (or moisten the top of the horn bud) and rub the tip of each horn firmly with the potash for about a quarter of a minute, or until a slight impression has been made on the center of the horn. The horns should be treated in this way from 2 to 4 times at intervals of 5 minutes. If, during the interval of 5 minutes after one or more applications, a little blood appears in the center of the horn, it will then only be necessary to give another very slight rubbing with the potash.
The following directions should be carefully observed: The operation is best performed when the calf is under 5 days old, and should not be attempted after the ninth day. When not in use the caustic potash should be kept in a stoppered glass bottle in a dry place, as it rapidly deteriorates when exposed to the air. One man should hold the calf while an assistant uses the caustic. Roll a piece of tin foil or brown paper round the end of the stick of caustic potash, which is held by the fingers, so as not to injure the hand of the operator. Do not moisten the stick too much, or the caustic may spread to the skin around the horn and destroy the flesh. For the same reason keep the calf from getting wet for some days after the operation. Be careful to rub on the center of the horn and not around the side of it.
«Staining Horns.»—A brown stain is given to horns by covering them first with an aqueous solution of potassium ferrocyanide, drying them, and then treating with a hot dilute solution of copper sulphate. A black stain can be produced in the following manner:
After having finely sandpapered the horns, dissolve 50 to 60 grains of nitrate of silver in 1 ounce of distilled water. It will be colorless. Dip a small brush in, and paint the horns where they are to be black. When dry, put them where the sun can shine on them, and you will find that they will turn jet black, and may then be polished.
«To Soften Horn.»—Lay the horn for 10 days in a solution of water, 1 part; nitric acid, 3 parts; wood vinegar, 2 parts; tannin, 5 parts; tartar, 2 parts; and zinc vitriol, 2.5 parts.
HORN BLEACHES: See Bone and Ivory.
HORN, UNITING GLASS WITH: See Adhesives.
HORSES, THE TREATMENT OF THEIR DISEASES: See Veterinary Formulas.
«Household Formulas»
«How to Lay Galvanized Iron Roofing.»—The use of galvanized iron for general roofing work has increased greatly during the past few years. It has many features which commend it as a roofing material, but difficulties have been experienced by beginners as to the proper method of applying it to the roof. The weight of material used is rather heavy to permit of double seaming, but a method has been evolved that is satisfactory. Galvanized iron roofing can be put on at low cost, so as to be water-tight and free from buckling at the joints. The method does away with double seaming, and is considered more suitable than the latter for roofing purposes wherever it can be laid on a roof steeper than 1 to 12.
[Illustration: FIG. 1]
[Illustration: FIG. 2]
[Illustration: FIG. 3]
[Illustration: FIG. 4]
[Illustration: FIG. 5]
[Illustration: FIG. 6]
Galvanized iron of No. 28 and heavier gauges is used, the sheets being lap-seamed and soldered together in strips in the shop the proper length to apply to the roof. After the sheets are fastened together a 1 1/4-inch edge is turned up the entire length of one side of the sheet, as indicated in Fig. 1. This operation is done with tongs having gauge pins set at the proper point. The second {398} operation consists in turning a strip 1/4 inch wide toward the sheet, as shown in Fig. 2. This sheet is then laid on the roof, and a cleat about 8 inches long and 1 inch wide, made of galvanized iron, is nailed to the roof close to the sheet and bent over it, as shown in Fig. 3.
A second sheet having 1 1/2 inches turned up is now brought against the first sheet and bent over both sheet and cleat, as shown in Fig. 4. The cleat is then bent backward over the second sheet and cut off close to the roof, as in Fig. 5, after which the seams are drawn together by double seaming tools, as the occasion demands, and slightly hammered with a wooden mallet. The finished seam is shown in Fig. 6. It will be seen that the second sheet of galvanized iron, cut 1/4 inch longer than the first, laps over the former, making a sort of bead which prevents water from driving in. Cleats hold both sheets firmly to the roof and are nailed about 12 inches apart. Roofs of this character, when laid with No. 28 gauge iron, cost very little more than the cheaper grades of tin, and do not have to be painted.
«Applications for Prickly Heat.»—Many applications for this extremely annoying form of urticaria have been suggested and their efficacy strongly urged by the various correspondents of the medical press who propose them, but none of them seem to be generally efficacious. Thus, sodium bicarbonate in strong, aqueous solution, has long been a domestic remedy in general use, but it fails probably as often as it succeeds. A weak solution of copper sulphate has also been highly extolled, only to disappoint a very large proportion of those who resort to it. And so we might go on citing remedies which may sometimes give relief, but fail in the large proportion of cases. In this trouble, as in almost every other, the idiosyncrasies of the patient play a great part in the effects produced by any remedy. It is caused, primarily by congestion of the capillary vessels of the skin, and anything that tends to relieve this congestion will give relief, at least temporarily. Among the newer suggestions are the following:
Alcohol 333 parts Ether 333 parts Chloroform 333 parts Menthol 1