Chapter 17 of 43 · 6072 words · ~30 min read

part Mix

. Or use:

II.—Orange-flower water 100 parts Glycerine 10 parts Borax 2 parts

Mix. Sig.: Apply twice daily.

«“Beauty Cream.”»—This formula gives the skin a beautiful, smooth, and fresh appearance, and, at the same time, serves to protect and preserve it:

Alum, powdered 10 grams Whites of 2 eggs Boric acid 3 grams Tincture of benzoin 40 drops Olive oil 40 drops Mucilage of acacia 5 drops Rice flour, quantity sufficient. Perfume, quantity sufficient.

Mix the alum and the white of eggs, without any addition of water whatever, in an earthen vessel, and dissolve the alum by the aid of very gentle heat (derived from a lamp, or gaslight, regulated to a very small flame), and constant, even, stirring. This must continue until the aqueous content of the albumen is completely driven off. Care must be taken to avoid coagulation of the albumen (which occurs very easily, as all know). Let the mass obtained in this manner get completely cold, then throw into a Wedgwood mortar, add the boric acid, tincture of benzoin, oil, mucilage (instead of which a solution of fine gelatin may be used), etc., and rub up together, thickening it with the addition of sufficient rice flour to give the desired consistence, and perfuming at will. Instead of olive oil any pure fat, or fatty oil, may be used, even vaseline or glycerine.

«Face Bleach or Beautifier.»—

Syrupy lactic acid 40 ounces Glycerine 80 ounces Distilled water 5 gallons

Mix. Gradually add

Tincture of benzoin 3 ounces

Color by adding {232}

Carmine No. 40 40 grains Glycerine 1 ounce Ammonia solution 1⁠/⁠2 ounce Water to 3 ounces

Heat this to drive off the ammonia, and mix all. Shake, set aside; then filter, and add

Solution of ionone 1 drachm

Add a few drachms of kaolin and filter until bright.

«BLACKHEAD REMEDIES.»

I.—Lactic acid 1 drachm Boric acid 1 drachm Ceresine 1 drachm Paraffine oil 6 drachms Hydrous wool fat 1 1⁠/⁠2 ounces Castor oil 6 drachms

II.—Unna advises hydrogen dioxide in the treatment of blackheads, his prescription being:

Hydrogen dioxide 20 to 40 parts Hydrous wool fat 10 parts Petrolatum 30 parts

III.—Thymol 1 part Boric acid 2 parts Tincture of witch-hazel 18 parts Rose water sufficient to make 200 parts

Mix. Apply to the face night and morning with a sponge, first washing the face with hot water and castile soap, and drying it with a coarse towel, using force enough to start the dried secretions. An excellent plan is to steam the face by holding it over a basin of hot water, keeping the head covered with a cloth.

IV.—Ichthyol 1 drachm Zinc oxide 2 drachms Starch 2 drachms Petrolatum 3 drachms

This paste should be applied at night. The face should first be thoroughly steamed or washed in water as hot as can be comfortably borne. All pustules should then be opened and blackheads emptied with as little violence as possible. After careful drying the paste should be thoroughly rubbed into the affected areas. In the morning, after removing the paste with a bland soap, bathe with cool water and dry with little friction.

«HAND CREAMS AND LOTIONS:»

«Chapped Skin.»—

I.—Glycerine 8 parts Bay rum 4 parts Ammonia water 4 parts Rose water 4 parts

Mix the bay rum and glycerine, add the ammonia water, and finally the rose water. It is especially efficacious after shaving.

II.—As glycerine is bad for the skin of many people, here is a recipe which will be found more generally satisfactory as it contains less glycerine: Bay rum, 3 ounces; glycerine, 1 ounce; carbolic acid, 1⁠/⁠2 drachm (30 drops). Wash the hands well and apply while hands are soft, preferably just before going to bed. Rub in thoroughly. This rarely fails to cure the worst “chaps” in two nights.

III.—A sure remedy for chapped hands consists in keeping them carefully dry and greasing them now and then with an anhydrous fat (not cold cream). The best substances for the purpose are unguentum cereum or oleum olivarum.

If the skin of the hands is already cracked the following preparation will heal it:

Finely ground zinc oxide, 5.0 parts; bismuth oxychloride, 2.0 parts; with fat oil, 12.0 parts; next add glycerine, 5.0 parts; lanolin, 30.0 parts; and scent with rose water, 10.0 parts.

IV.—Wax salve (olive oil 7 parts, and yellow wax 3 parts), or pure olive oil.

«Hand-Cleaning Paste.»—Cleaning pastes are composed of soap and grit, either with or without some free alkali. Any soap may be used, but a white soap is preferred. Castile soap does not make as firm a paste as soap made from animal fats, and the latter also lather better. For grit, anything may be used, from powdered pumice to fine sand.

A good paste may be made by dissolving soap in the least possible quantity of hot water, and as it cools and sets stirring in the grit. A good formula is:

White soap 2 1⁠/⁠2 pounds Fine sand 1 pound Water 5 1⁠/⁠2 pints

«Lotion for the Hands.»—

Boric acid 1 drachm Glycerine 6 drachms

Dissolve by heat and mix with

Lanolin 6 drachms Vaseline 1 ounce

Add any perfume desired. The borated glycerine should be cooled before mixing it with the lanolin.

«Cosmetic Jelly.»—

Tragacanth (white ribbon) 60 grains Rose water 14 ounces

Macerate for two days and strain forcibly through coarse muslin or cheese {233} cloth. Add glycerine and alcohol, of each 1 ounce. Perfume to suit. Use immediately after bathing, rubbing in well until dry.

«Perspiring Hands.»—I.—Take rectified eau de cologne, 50 parts (by weight); belladonna dye, 8 parts; glycerine, 3 parts; rub gently twice or three times a day with half a tablespoonful of this mixture. One may also employ chalk, carbonate of magnesia, rice starch, hot and cold baths of the hands (as hot and as cold as can be borne), during 6 minutes, followed by a solution of 4 parts of tannin in 32 of glycerine.

II.—Rub the hands several times per day with the following mixture:

By weight Rose water 125 parts Borax 10 parts Glycerine 8 parts

«Hand Bleach.»—Lanolin, 30 parts; glycerine, 20 parts; borax, 10 parts; eucalyptol, 2 parts; essential oil of almonds, 1 part. After rubbing the hands with this mixture, cover them with gloves during the night.

For the removal of developing stains, see Photography.

«MASSAGE CREAMS:»

«Massage Application.»—

White potash soap, shaved 20 parts Glycerine 30 parts Water 30 parts Alcohol (90 per cent) 10 parts

Dissolve the soap by heating it with the glycerine and water, mixed. Add the alcohol, and for every 30 ounces of the solution add 5 or 6 drops of the mistura oleoso balsamica, German Pharmacopœia. Filter while hot.

«Medicated Massage Balls.»—They are the balls of paraffine wax molded with a smooth or rough surface with menthol, camphor, oil of wintergreen, oil of peppermint, etc., added before shaping. Specially useful in headaches, neuralgias, and rheumatic affections, and many other afflictions of the skin and bones. The method of using them is to roll the ball over the affected part by the aid of the palm of the hand with pressure. Continue until relief is obtained or a sensation of warmth. The only external method for the treatment of all kinds of headaches is the menthol medicated massage ball. This may be made with smooth or corrugated surfaces. Keep wrapped in foil in cool places.

«Casein Massage Cream.»—The basis of the modern massage cream is casein. Casein is now produced very cheaply in the powdered form, and by treatment with glycerine and perfumes it is possible to turn out a satisfactory cream. The following formula is suggested:

Skimmed milk 1 gallon Water of ammonia 1 ounce Acetic acid 1 ounce Oil of rose geranium 1 drachm Oil of bitter almond 1 drachm Oil of anise 2 drachms Cold cream (see below), enough. Carmine enough to color.

Add the water of ammonia to the milk and let it stand 24 hours. Then add the acetic acid and let it stand another 24 hours. Then strain through cheese cloth and add the oils. Work this thoroughly in a Wedgwood mortar, adding enough carmine to color it a delicate pink. To the product thus obtained add an equal amount of cold cream made by the formula herewith given:

White wax 4 ounces Spermaceti 4 ounces White petrolatum 12 ounces Rose water 14 ounces Borax 80 grains

Melt the wax, spermaceti, and petrolatum together over a water bath; dissolve the borax in the rose water and add to the melted mass at one time. Agitate violently. Presumably the borax solution should be of the same temperature as the melted mass.

«Massage Skin Foods.»—

This preparation is used in massage for removing wrinkles:

I.—White wax 1⁠/⁠2 ounce Spermaceti 1⁠/⁠2 ounce Cocoanut oil 1 ounce Lanolin 1 ounce Oil of sweet almonds 2 ounces

Melt in a porcelain dish, remove from the fire, and add

Orange-flower water 1 ounce Tincture of benzoin 3 drops

Beat briskly until creamy.

II.—Snow-white cold cream 4 ounces Lanolin 4 ounces Oil of Theobroma 4 ounces White petrolatum oil 4 ounces Distilled water 4 ounces

In hot weather add

Spermaceti 1 1⁠/⁠2 drachms White wax 2 1⁠/⁠2 drachms

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In winter the two latter are left out and the proportion of cocoa butter is modified. Prepared and perfumed in proportion same as cold cream.

III.—White petrolatum 7 av. ounces Paraffine wax 1⁠/⁠2 ounce Lanolin 2 av. ounces Water 3 fluidounces Oil of rose 3 drops Vanillin 2 grains Alcohol 1 fluidrachm

Melt the paraffine, add the lanolin and petrolatum, and when these have melted pour the mixture into a warm mortar, and, with constant stirring, incorporate the water. When nearly cold add the oil and vanillin, dissolved in the alcohol.

Preparations of this kind should be rubbed into the skin vigorously, as friction assists the absorbed fat in developing the muscles, and also imparts softness and fullness to the skin.

«SKIN BLEACHES, BALMS, LOTIONS, ETC.:»

See also Cleaning Methods and Photography for removal of stains caused by photographic developers.

«Astringent Wash for Flabby Skin.»—This is used to correct coarse pores, and to remedy an oily or flabby skin. Apply with sponge night and morning:

Cucumber juice 1 1⁠/⁠2 ounces Tincture of benzoin 1⁠/⁠2 ounce Cologne 1 ounce Elder-flower water 5 ounces

Put the tincture of benzoin in an 8-ounce bottle, add the other ingredients, previously mixed, and shake slightly. There will be some precipitation of benzoin in this mixture, but it will settle out, or it may be strained out through cheese cloth.

«Bleaching Skin Salves.»—A skin-bleaching action, due to the presence of hydrogen peroxide, is possessed by the following mixtures:

I.—Lanolin 30 parts Bitter almond oil 10 parts

Mix and stir with this salve base a solution of

Borax 1 part Glycerine 15 parts Hydrogen peroxide 15 parts

For impure skin the following composition is recommended:

II.—White mercurial ointment 5 grams Zinc ointment 5 grams Lanolin 30 grams Bitter almond oil 10 grams

And gradually stir into this a solution of

Borax 2 grams Glycerine 30 grams Rose water 10 grams Concentrated nitric acid 5 drops

III.—Lanolin 30 grams Oil sweet almond 10 grams Borax 1 gram Glycerine 15 grams Solution hydrogen peroxide 15 grams

Mix the lanolin and oil, then incorporate the borax previously dissolved in the mixture of glycerine and peroxide solution.

IV.—Ointment ammoniac mercury 5 grams Ointment zinc oxide 5 grams Lanolin 30 grams Oil sweet almond 10 grams Borax 2 grams Glycerine 30 grams Rose water 10 grams Nitric acid, C. P. 5 drops

Prepare in a similar manner as the foregoing. Rose oil in either ointment makes a good perfume. Both ointments may, of course, be employed as a general skin bleach, which, in fact, is their real office—cosmetic creams.

«Emollient Skin Balm.»—

Quince seed 1 ounce Water 7 ounces Glycerine 1 1⁠/⁠2 ounces Alcohol 4 1⁠/⁠2 ounces Salicylic acid 6 grains Carbolic acid 10 grains Oil of bay 10 drops Oil of cloves 5 drops Oil of orange peel 10 drops Oil of wintergreen 8 drops Oil of rose 2 drops

Digest the quince seed in the water for 24 hours, and then press through a cloth; dissolve the salicylic acid in the alcohol; add the carbolic acid to the glycerine; put all together, shake well, and bottle.

«Skin Lotion.»—

Zinc sulphocarbolate 30 grains Alcohol (90 per cent) 4 fluidrachms Glycerine 2 fluidrachms Tincture of cochineal 1 fluidrachm Orange-flower water 1 1⁠/⁠2 fluidounces Rose water (triple) to make 6 fluidounces

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«Skin Discoloration.»—Discoloration of the neck may be removed by the use of acids, the simplest of which is that in buttermilk, but if the action of this is too slow try 4 ounces of lactic acid, 2 of glycerine, and 1 of rose water. These will mix without heating. Apply several times daily with a soft linen rag; pour a small quantity into a saucer and dip the cloth into this. If the skin becomes sore use less of the remedy and allay the redness and smarting with a good cold cream. It is always an acid that removes freckles and discolorations, by burning them off. It is well to be slow in its use until you find how severe its action is. It is not wise to try for home making any of the prescriptions which include corrosive sublimate or any other deadly poison. Peroxide of hydrogen diluted with 5 times as much water, also will bleach discolorations. Do not try any of these bleaches on a skin freshly sunburned. For that, wash in hot water, or add to the hot water application enough witch-hazel to scent the water, and after that has dried into the skin it will be soon enough to try other applications.

«Detergent for Skin Stains.»—Moritz Weiss has introduced a detergent paste which will remove stains from the skin without attacking it, is non-poisonous, and can be used without hot water. Moisten the hands with a little cold water, apply a small quantity of the paste to the stained skin, rub the hands together for a few minutes, and rinse with cold water. The preparation is a mixture of soft soap and hard tallow, melted together over the fire and incorporated with a little emery powder, flint, glass, sand, quartz, pumice stone, etc., with a little essential oil to mask the smell of the soap. The mixture sets to a mass like putty, but does not dry hard. The approximate proportions of the ingredients are: Soft soap, 30 per cent; tallow, 15 per cent; emery powder, 55 per cent, and a few drops of essential oil.

If an extra detergent quality is desired, 4 ounces of sodium carbonate may be added, and the quantity of soap may be reduced. Paste thus made will attack grease, etc., more readily, but it is harder on the skin.

«Removing Inground Dirt.»—

Egg albumen 8 parts Boric acid 1 part Glycerine 32 parts Perfume to suit. Distilled water to make 50 parts

Dissolve the boric acid in a sufficient quantity of water; mix the albumen and glycerine and pass through a silk strainer. Finally, mix the two fluids and add the residue of water.

Every time the hands are washed, dry on a towel, and then moisten them lightly but thoroughly with the liquid, and dry on a soft towel without rubbing. At night, on retiring, apply the mixture and wipe slightly or just enough to take up superfluous liquid; or, better still, sleep in a pair of cotton gloves.

«TOILET CREAMS:»

«Almond Cold Creams.»—A liquid almond cream may be made by the appended formula. It has been known as milk of almond:

I.—Sweet almonds 5 ounces White castile soap 2 drachms White wax 2 drachms Spermaceti 2 drachms Oil of bitter almonds 10 minims Oil of bergamot 20 minims Alcohol 6 fluidounces Water, a sufficient quantity.

Beat the almonds in a smooth mortar until as much divided as their nature will admit; then gradually add water in very small quantities, continuing the beating until a smooth paste is obtained; add to this, gradually, one pint of water, stirring well all the time. Strain the resulting emulsion without pressure through a cotton cloth previously well washed to remove all foreign matter. If new, the cloth will contain starch, etc., which must be removed. Add, through the strainer, enough water to bring the measure of the strained liquid to 1 pint. While this operation is going on let the soap be shaved into thin ribbons, and melted, with enough water to cover it, over a very gentle fire or on a water bath. When fluid add the wax and spermaceti in large pieces, so as to allow them to melt slowly, and thereby better effect union with the soap. Stir occasionally. When all is melted place the soapy mixture in a mortar, run into it slowly the emulsion, blending the two all the while with the pestle. Care must be taken not to add the emulsion faster than it can be incorporated with the soap. Lastly add the alcohol in which the perfumes have been previously dissolved, in the same manner, using great care.

This preparation is troublesome to make and rather expensive, and it is perhaps no better for the purpose than glycerine. The mistake is often made of applying the latter too freely, its “stickiness” being unpleasant, and it is {236} best to dilute it largely with water. Such a lotion may be made by mixing

Glycerine 1 part Rose water 9 parts

Plain water may, of course, be used as the diluent, but a slightly perfumed preparation is generally considered more desirable. The perfume may easily be obtained by dissolving a very small proportion of handkerchief “extract” or some essential oil in the glycerine, and then mixing with plain water.

II.—White wax 1⁠/⁠4 ounce Spermaceti 2 1⁠/⁠2 ounces Oil of sweet almonds 2 1⁠/⁠2 ounces

Melt, remove from the fire, and add

Rose water 1 1⁠/⁠2 ounces

Beat until creamy: not until cold. When the cream begins to thicken add a few drops of oil of rose. Only the finest almond oil should be used. Be careful in weighing the wax and spermaceti. These precautions will insure a good product.

III.—White wax 4 ounces Spermaceti 3 ounces Sweet almond oil 6 fluidounces Glycerine 4 fluidounces Oil of rose geranium 1 fluidrachm Tincture of benzoin 4 fluidrachms

Melt the wax and spermaceti, add the oil of sweet almonds, then beat in the glycerine, tincture of benzoin, and oil of rose geranium. When all are incorporated to a smooth, creamy mass, pour into molds.

IV.—Sweet almonds, blanched 5 ounces Castile soap, white 120 grains White wax 120 grains Spermaceti 120 grains Oil of bitter almonds 10 drops Oil of bergamot 20 drops Alcohol 6 fluidounces Water, sufficient.

Make an emulsion of the almonds with water so as to obtain 16 fluidounces of product, straining through cotton which has previously been washed to remove starch. Dissolve the soap with the aid of heat in the necessary amount of water to form a liquid, add the wax and spermaceti, continue the heat until the latter is melted, transfer to a mortar, and incorporate the almond emulsion slowly with constant stirring until all has been added and a smooth cream has been formed. Finally, add the two volatile oils.

V.—Melt, at moderate heat,

By weight. White wax 100 parts Spermaceti 1,000 parts

Then stir in

By weight. Almond oil 500 parts Rose water 260 parts

And scent with

By weight. Bergamot oil 10 parts Geranium oil 5 parts Lemon oil 4 parts

By weight. VI.—Castor oil 500 parts White wax 100 parts Almond oil 150 parts

Melt at moderate heat and scent with

By weight. Geranium oil 6 parts Lemon oil 5 parts Bergamot oil 10 parts

By weight. VII.—Almond oil 400 parts Lanoline 200 parts White wax 60 parts Spermaceti 60 parts Rose water 300 parts

By weight. VIII.—White wax 6 parts Tallow, freshly tried out 4 parts Spermaceti 2 parts Oil of sweet almonds 6 parts

Melt together and while still hot add, with constant stirring, 1 part of sodium carbonate dissolved in 79 parts of hot water. Stir until cold. Perfume to the taste.

IX.—Ointment of rose water 1 ounce Oil of sweet almonds. 1 fluidounce Glycerine 1 fluidounce Boric acid 100 grains Solution of soda 2 1⁠/⁠4 fluidounces Mucilage of quince seed. 4 fluidounces Water enough to make 40 fluidounces Oil of rose, oil of bitter almonds, of each sufficient to perfume.

Heat the ointment, oil, and solution of soda together, stirring constantly until an emulsion or saponaceous mixture is {237} formed. Then warm together the glycerine, acid, and mucilage and about 30 fluidounces of water; mix with the emulsion, stir until cold, and add the remainder of the water. Lastly, add the volatile oils.

The rose-water ointment used should be the “cold cream” of the United States Pharmacopœia.

X.—Spermaceti 2 ounces White wax 2 ounces Sweet almond oil 14 fluidounces Water, distilled 7 fluidounces Borax, powder 60 grains Coumarin 1⁠/⁠2 grain Oil of bergamot 24 drops Oil of rose 6 drops Oil of bitter almonds 8 drops Tincture of ambergris 5 drops

Melt the spermaceti and wax, add the sweet almond oil, incorporate the water in which the borax has previously been dissolved, and finally add the oils of bergamot, rose, and bitter almond.

XI.—Honey 2 av. ounces Castile soap, white powder 1 av. ounce Oil sweet almonds 26 fluidounces Oil bitter almonds 1 fluidrachm Oil bergamot 1⁠/⁠2 fluidrachm Oil cloves 15 drops Peru balsam 1 fluidrachm Liquor potassa. Solution carmine, of each sufficient.

Mix the honey with the soap in a mortar, and add enough liquor potassa (about 1 fluidrachm) to produce a nice cream. Mix the volatile oils and balsam with the sweet almond oil, mix this with the cream, and continue the trituration until thoroughly mixed. Finally add, if desired, enough carmine solution to impart a rose tint.

XII.—White wax 800 parts Spermaceti 800 parts Sweet almond oil 5,600 parts Distilled water 2,800 parts Borax 50 parts Bergamot oil 20 parts Attar of rose 5 parts Coumarin 0.1 part

Add for each pound of the cream 5 drops of etheric oil of bitter almonds, and 3 drops tincture of ambra. Proceed as in making cold cream.

The following also makes a fine cream:

XIII.—Spermaceti 3 parts White wax 2 parts Oil of almonds, fresh 12 parts Rose water, double 1 part Glycerine, pure 1 part

Melt on a water bath the spermaceti and wax, add the oil (which should be fresh), and pour the whole into a slightly warmed mortar, under constant and lively stirring, to prevent granulation. Continue the trituration until the mass has a white, creamy appearance, and is about the consistence of butter at ordinary temperature. Add, little by little, under constant stirring, the orange-flower water and glycerine mixed, and finally the perfume as before. Continue the stirring for 15 or 20 minutes, then immediately put into containers.

«Chappine Cream.»—

Quince seed 2 drachms Glycerine 1 1⁠/⁠2 ounces Water 1 1⁠/⁠2 ounces Lead acetate 10 grains Flavoring, sufficient.

Macerate the quince seed in water, strain, add the glycerine and lead acetate, previously dissolved in sufficient water; flavor with jockey club or orange essence.

«Cucumber Creams.»—

I.—White wax 3 ounces Spermaceti 3 ounces Benzoinated lard 8 ounces Cucumbers 3 ounces

Melt together the wax, spermaceti, and lard, and infuse in the liquid the cucumbers previously grated. Allow to cool, stirring well; let stand a day, remelt, strain and again stir the “cream” until cold.

II.—Benzoinated lard 5 ounces Suet 3 ounces Cucumber juice 10 ounces Proceed as in making cold cream.

«Glycerine Creams.»—

I.—Oil of sweet almonds 100 parts White wax 13 parts Glycerine, pure 25 parts Add a sufficient quantity of any suitable perfume.

Melt, on the water bath, the oil, wax, and glycerine together, remove and as the mass cools down add the perfume in sufficient quantity to make a creamy mass. {238}

II.—Quince seed 1 ounce Boric acid 16 grains Starch 1 ounce Glycerine 16 ounces Carbolic acid 30 minims Alcohol 12 ounces Oil of lavender 30 minims Oil of rose 10 drops Extract of white rose 1 ounce Water enough to make 64 ounces

Dissolve the boric acid in a quart of water and in this solution macerate the quince seed for 3 hours; then strain. Heat together the starch and the glycerine until the starch granules are broken, and mix with this the carbolic acid. Dissolve the oils and the extract of rose in the alcohol, and add to the quince-seed mucilage; then mix all together, strain, and add water enough to make the product weigh 64 ounces.

III.—Glycerine 1 ounce Borax 2 drachms Boracic acid 1 drachm Oil rose geranium 30 drops Oil bitter almond 15 drops Milk 1 gallon

Heat the milk until it curdles and allow it to stand 12 hours. Strain it through cheese cloth and allow it to stand again for 12 hours. Mix in the salts and glycerine and triturate in a mortar, finally adding the odors and coloring if wanted. The curdled milk must be entirely free from water to avoid separation. If the milk will not curdle fast enough the addition of 1 ounce of water ammonia to a gallon will hasten it. Take a gallon of milk, add 1 ounce ammonia water, heat (not boil), allow to stand 24 hours, and no trouble will be found in forming a good base for the cream.

IV.—This is offered as a substitute for cucumber cream for toilet uses. Melt 15 parts, by weight, of gelatin in hot water containing 15 parts, by weight, of boracic acid as well as 150 parts, by weight, of glycerine; the total amount of water used should not exceed 300 parts, by weight. It may be perfumed or not.

«Lanolin Creams.»—

I.—Anhydrous lanolin 650 parts Peach-kernel oil 200 parts Water 150 parts

Perfume with about 15 drops of ionone or 20 drops of synthetic ylang-ylang.

II.—Lanolin 40 parts Olive oil 15 parts Paraffine ointment 10 parts Aqua naphæ 10 parts Distilled water 15 parts Glycerine 5 parts Boric acid 4 parts Borax 4 parts Geranium oil, sufficient. Extract, triple, of ylang-ylang, quantity sufficient.

III.—Anhydrous lanolin 650 drachms Almond oil 200 drachms Water 150 drachms Oil of ylang-ylang 5 drops

Preparations which have been introduced years ago for the care of the skin and complexion are the glycerine gelées, which have the advantage over lanolin that they go further, but present the drawback of not being so quickly absorbed by the skin. These products are filled either into glasses or into tubes. The latter way is preferable and is more and more adopted, owing to the convenience of handling.

A good recipe for such a gelée is the following:

Moisten white tragacanth powder, 50 parts, with glycerine, 200 parts, and spirit of wine, 100 parts, and shake with a suitable amount of perfume; then quickly mix and shake with warm distilled water, 650 parts.

A transparent slime will form immediately which can be drawn off at once.

«Mucilage Creams.»—

I.—Starch 30 parts Carrageen mucilage 480 parts Boric acid 15 parts Glycerine 240 parts Cologne water 240 parts

Boil the starch in the carrageen mucilage, add the boric acid and the glycerine. Let cool, and add the cologne water.

II.—Linseed mucilage 240 parts Boric acid 2 parts Salicylic acid 1.3 parts Glycerine 60 parts Cologne water 120 parts Rose water 120 parts

Instead of the cologne water any extracts may be used. Lilac and ylang-ylang are recommended.

«Witch-Hazel Creams.»—

I.—Quince seed 90 grains Boric acid 8 grains Glycerine 4 fluidounces Alcohol 6 fluidounces Carbolic acid 6 drachms Cologne water 4 fluidounces Oil lavender flowers 40 drops {239} Glycerite starch 4 av. ounces Distilled witch-hazel extract enough to make 32 fluidounces.

Dissolve the boric acid in 16 ounces of the witch-hazel extract, macerate the quince seed in the solution for 3 hours, strain, add the glycerine, carbolic acid, and glycerite, and mix well. Mix the alcohol, cologne water, lavender oil, and mucilages, incorporate with the previous mixture, and add enough witch-hazel extract to bring to the measure of 32 fluidounces.

II.—Quince seed 4 ounces Hot water 16 ounces Glycerine 32 ounces Witch-hazel water 128 ounces Boric acid 6 ounces Rose extract 2 ounces Violet extract 1 ounce

Macerate the quince seed in the hot water; add the glycerine and witch-hazel, in which the boric acid has been previously dissolved; let the mixture stand for 2 days, stirring occasionally; strain and add the perfume.

«Skin Cream for Collapsible Tubes.»—

I.—White vaseline 6 ounces White wax 1 ounce Spermaceti 5 drachms Subchloride bismuth 6 drachms Attar of rose 6 minims Oil of bitter almonds 1 minim Rectified spirit 1⁠/⁠2 ounce

Melt the vaseline, wax, and spermaceti together, and while cooling incorporate the subchloride of bismuth (in warm mortar). Dissolve the oils in the alcohol, and add to the fatty mixture, stirring all until uniform and cold. In cold weather the quantities of wax and spermaceti may be reduced.

II.—Lanolin 1 ounce Almond oil 1 ounce Oleate of zinc (powder) 3 drachms Extract of white rose 1 1⁠/⁠2 drachms Glycerine 2 drachms Rose water 2 drachms

«Face Cream Without Grease.»—

Quince seed 10 parts Boiling water 1,000 parts Borax 5 parts Boric acid 5 parts Glycerine 100 parts Alcohol, 94 per cent 125 parts Attar of rose, quantity sufficient to perfume.

Macerate the quince seed in half of the boiling water, with frequent agitations, for 2 hours and 30 minutes, then strain off. In the residue of the boiling water dissolve the borax and boric acid, add the glycerine and the perfume, the latter dissolved in the alcohol. Now add, little by little, the colate of quince seed, under constant agitation, which should be kept up for 5 minutes after the last portion of the colate is added.

«TOILET MILKS:»

«Cucumber Milk.»—

Simple cerate 2 pounds Powdered borax 11 1⁠/⁠2 ounces Powdered castile soap 10 ounces Glycerine 26 ounces Alcohol 24 ounces Cucumber juice 32 ounces Water to 5 gallons Ionone 1 drachm Jasmine 1⁠/⁠2 drachm Neroli 1⁠/⁠2 drachm Rhodinol 15 minims

To the melted cerate in a hot water bath add the soap and stir well, keeping up the heat until perfectly mixed. Add 8 ounces of borax to 1 gallon of boiling water, and pour gradually into the hot melted soap and cerate; add the remainder of the borax and hot water, then the heated juice and glycerine, and lastly the alcohol. Shake well while cooling, set aside for 48 hours, and siphon off any water that may separate. Shake well, and repeat after standing again if necessary; then perfume.

«Cucumber Juice.»—It is well to make a large quantity, as it keeps indefinitely. Washed unpeeled cucumbers are grated and pressed; the juice is heated, skimmed and boiled for 5 minutes, then cooled and filtered. Add 1 part of alcohol to 2 parts of juice, let stand for 12 hours or more, and filter until clear.

«Glycerine Milk.»—

Glycerine 1,150 parts Starch, powdered 160 parts Distilled water 400 parts Tincture of benzoin 20 parts

Rub up 80 parts of the starch with the glycerine, then put the mixture on the steam bath and heat, under continuous stirring, until it forms a jellylike mass. Remove from the bath and stir in the remainder of the starch. Finally, add the water and tincture and stir till homogeneous.

«Lanolin Toilet Milk.»—

White castile soap, powdered 22 grains Lanolin 1 ounce Tincture benzoin 12 drachms Water, enough.

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Dissolve the soap in 2 fluidounces of warm water, also mix the lanolin with 2 fluidounces of warm water; then incorporate the two with each other, finally adding the tincture. The latter may be replaced by 90 grains of powdered borax.

«Jasmine Milk.»—To 25 parts of water add gradually, with constant stirring, 1 part of zinc white, 2 quarts of grain spirit, and 0.15 to 0.25 part of glycerine; finally stir in 0.07 to 0.10 part of jasmine essence. Filter the mixture and fill into glass bottles. For use as a cosmetic, rub on the raspberry paste on retiring at night, and in the morning use the jasmine milk to remove the paste from the skin. The two work together in their effect.

«SUNBURN AND FRECKLE REMEDIES.»

I.—Apply over the affected skin a solution of corrosive sublimate, 1 in 500, or, if the patient can stand it, 1 in 300, morning and evening, and for the night apply emplastrum hydrargyri compositum to the spots. In the morning remove the plaster and all remnants of it by rubbing fresh butter or cold cream over the spots.

For redness of the skin apply each other day zinc oxide ointment or ointment of bismuth subnitrate.

II.—Besnier recommends removal of the mercurial ointment with green soap, and the use, at night, of an ointment composed of vaseline and Vigo’s plaster (emplastrum hydrargyri compositum), in equal parts. In the morning wash off with soap and warm water, and apply the following:

Vaseline, white 20 parts Bismuth carbonate 5 parts Kaolin 5 parts

Mix, and make an ointment.

III.—Leloir has found the following of service. Clean the affected part with green soap or with alcohol, and then apply several coats of the following:

Acid chrysophanic 15 parts Chloroform 100 parts

Mix. Apply with a camel’s-hair pencil.

When the application dries thoroughly, go over it with a layer of traumaticine. This application will loosen itself in several days, when the process should be repeated.

IV.—When the skin is only slightly discolored use a pomade of salicylic acid, or apply the following:

Acid chrysophanic, from 1 to 4 parts Acid salicylic 1 to 2 parts Collodion 40 parts

V.—When there is need for a more complicated treatment, the following is used:

(_a_) Corrosive sublimate 1 part Orange-flower water 7,500 parts Acid, hydrochloric, dilute 500 parts

(_b_) Bitter almonds 4,500 parts Glycerine 2,500 parts Orange-flower water 25,000 parts

Rub up to an emulsion in a porcelain capsule. Filter and add, drop by drop, and under constant stirring, 5 grams of tincture of benzoin. Finally mix the two solutions, adding the second to the first.

This preparation is applied with a sponge, on retiring, to the affected places, and allowed to dry on.

VI.—According to Brocq the following should be penciled over the affected spots:

Fresh pure milk 50 parts Glycerine 30 parts Acid, hydrochloric, concentrated 5 parts Ammonium chlorate 3 parts

VII.—Other external remedies that may be used are lactic acid diluted with 3 volumes of water, applied with a glass rod; dilute nitric acid, and, finally, peroxide of hydrogen, which last is a very powerful agent. Should it cause too much inflammation, the latter may be assuaged by using an ointment of zinc oxide or bismuth subnitrate—or one may use the following:

Kaolin 4 parts Vaseline 10 parts Glycerine 4 parts Magnesium carbonate 2 parts Zinc oxide 2 parts

«Freckle Remedies.»—

I.—Poppy oil 1 part Lead acetate 2 parts Tincture benzoin 1 part Tincture quillaia 5 parts Spirit nitrous ether 1 part Rose water 95 parts

Saponify the oil with the lead acetate; add the rose water, and follow with the tinctures.

II.—Chloral hydrate 2 drachms Carbolic acid 1 drachm {241} Tincture iodine 60 drops Glycerine 1 ounce

Mix and dissolve. Apply with a camel’s-hair pencil at night.

III.—Distilled vinegar 660 parts Lemons, cut in small pieces 135 parts Alcohol, 85 per cent 88 parts Lavender oil 23 parts Water 88 parts Citron oil 6 parts

This mixture is allowed to stand for 3 or 4 days in the sun and filtered. Coat, by means of a sponge before retiring, the places of the skin where the freckles are and allow to dry.

«Freckles and Liver Spots.»—Modern dermatological methods of treating freckles and liver spots are based partly on remedies that cause desquamation and those that depigmentate (or destroy or neutralize pigmentation). Both methods may be distinguished in respect to their effects and mode of using into the following: The active ingredients of the desquamative pastes are reductives which promote the formation of epithelium and hence expedite desquamation.

There are many such methods, and especially to be mentioned is that of Unna, who uses resorcin for the purpose. Lassar makes use of a paste of naphthol and sulphur.

«Sunburn Remedies.»—

I.—Zinc sulphocarbolate 1 part Glycerine. 20 parts Rose water 70 parts Alcohol, 90 per cent 8 parts Cologne water 1 part Spirit of camphor 1