Part 17

In this immediate or aforesayd passage, we coasted neare and within sixe miles of the limits of Antiochia, [Antiochians the first Christians.] one of the ancient Patriarch seas; so called of Antiochus her first founder, and not a little glorying to this day, that the Disciples of Jesus and Antiochians were first here named Christians. Who (nothwithstanding) of their grievous afflictions flourished so that in 40. yeares they grew a terrour to their enemies; who suggested by the Divell cruelly afflicted them with ten generall persecutions, under the Emperours, Nero anno 67. Domitianus, anno 96, Trajanus, 100. Maximinius, 137. Marcus Antonius, 167. Severus, 195. Decius, 250. Valerianus, 259. Aurelianus, 278. and Dioclesian anno 293. yeares. Notwithstanding all which massacres and martyrdome, yet this little graine of Mustard seed, planted by Gods owne hand, and watered with the blood of so many holy Saints, (Nam sanguis Martirum, semen Ecclesiæ est) grew so great a tree, that the branches thereof were dispersed through every City, and Province of the whole world.

Before my arrivall in Aleppo, the Caravan of Babylon was from thence departed, which bred no small griefe in my breast: The Venetian Consull, to whom I was highly recommended, by the aforesaid Merchants, (having had some insight of my intended voyage) informed me, that the Caravan stayed at Beershake on Euphrates, for some conceived report they had of Arabs, that lay for them in the desarts, and willed me to hire a Janisary, and three Souldiers to overhye them; whose counsell I received, [Frustrate of Babylon.] But was meerely frustrated of my designes. True it was, they staied, but were gone three dayes before my comming to that unhappy place.

The distance from whence over land to Babylon, or Bagdat, being but sixe small or short dayes journey, the losse whereof and the damnable deceit of my Janizary made my Muse to expresse, what my sorrowfull Prose can not performe.

The doubts and drifts of the voluble mind That here and there doe flee, turne judgement blind: Did overwhelme my heart, in grim despare Whilst hope and reason fled, stayd timrous care: And yet the grounds were just; my treacherous guide Did nought but crosse me; greed led him aside: Still this, still that I would! all I surmise Is screwaly stopt: At last my scopes devise To make a Boat, to beare me downe alone With drudges two, to ground-chang'd Babylon: That could not be, the charges was too great, And eke the streame, did nought but dangers threat: My conduct still deceavd me, made it square Another Caravan, O! would come there From Aleppe, or Damascus: till in end Most of my moneyes did his knavery spend: Thus was I tost long five weekes, and foure dayes With strugling doubts: O strange were these delayes! At last a Chelfane came, a Christian kind Who by my griefe soone understood my mind; And told me flat, the Janizaries drift Was to extort me with a lingring shift. Come, come, sayd he, the Sanzacke here is just, Let us complaine, for now complayne you must: He with me went, and for a Trenchman serv'd And told the Ruler, how my Conduct swervd: He's calld, and soone convinc'd, and with command Forc'd to transport me backe to Syriaes land: I'me there arrived, and eftsoones made me bound For the Venetian Consul: there to sound My great abuses, by this Villane done. Which soone were heard, and eke repayrd as soone: The Bassaw was upright, and for times sake He did me more, then conscience will'd me take. My plaint preferd, he was in Prison layd And all my gold, to give me backe was mayd Which he had falsely tane: where for his paines He had the losse, and I receivd the gaines: For doubling his wrongs, done, to crosse him more, I got my vantage, from his craft before: And for his ten weekes fees, no more he had Than he, thats owner of a ditch-falne jade: Thus leaving him, I with the Consull bode, Full forty dayes, or I went thence abroad.

In the eleven dayes journey I had betweene Aleppo, and Beershack, through a part of Syria, the breadth of Mesopotamia, and Chelfania, a Province of the same, joyning with Tigris and Euphrates, and returning the same way againe; I found nothing worthy of remarkinge save the fertility of the soyle: [Mesopotamia.] which indeed in Mesopotamia, yeeldeth two crops of wheate in the yeare, and for a Bushell sowing, in diverse places, they recoyle a hundreth againe.

The countrey it selfe is overcled with infinit Villages, having no eminent Towne of any note or consequence, except the City of Carahemen the seat of a Beglerbeg, who commandeth under him fourteene Sanzacks, and twenty sixe thousand Timariots. The people here are for the most part beleevers in Christ, but alas too silly, untoward, and ignorant Christians: And yet though without learning, or great understanding therein, they are wonderfull zealous in their profession, and great sufferers for it also.

[Beershack.] This barbarous Towne of Beershacke, being situate on Euphrates standeth in the Chelfaines Countrey, and is supposed to have beene Padan-aram, where Laban dwelt, and where Jacob kept Labans sheepe, though some interpret all Mesopotamia, then to have beene called Padanaram: from whence North-east, and not farre hence are the demolished fragments of Ninivie on Tigris, whose very ruines are now come to ruine: The decayes whereof being much semblable to that sacked Lacedemon in Sparta, or to the stony heapes of Jerico, the detriments of Thebes, the relicts of Tyrus, or to the finall overthrow of desolate Troy. This Countrey of Chelfaine, is the place most agreeable with Scripture, where the earthly Paradice was once set, though now impossible to be found out.

[Mesopotamia.] Mesopotamia is seldome watered with raine, but by the nature of the soile is marvellous fruitfull: It is bordred with Caldea, on the East: Euphrates on the South: Syria on the North: and Arabia Petrea on the West. This Aleppo is a City in Syria; the name of which hath beene so oft changed by Turkes, that the true Antiquity of it, can hardly be knowne: It is both large and populous, and furnished with all sorts of merchandize, especially of Indigo, and Spices, that are brought over land from Goa, & other places in India, which draweth a concurrance of all nations to it.

[A notable obedience.] Here I remember of a notable obedience done to the great Turke, by the great Bassaw of Aleppo, who was also an Emeere, or hereditary Prince: to wit, the yeare before my comming hither, he had revolted against his Emperour, and fighting the Bassawes of Damascus, and Carahemen, overcame them: The yeare following, and in my being there, the Grand Signior sent from Constantinople a Showse, and two Janisaries in Ambassage to him: where, when they came to Aleppo, the Bassaw was in his owne Countrey at Mesopotamia: The messengers make hast after him, but in their journey they met him comming backe to Aleppo, accompanied with his two sonnes, and sixe hundred Horse-men. Upon the high way they delivered their message, where he stood still, and heard them: The proffer of Achmet was, that if he would acknowledge his rebellion, and for that treason committed send him his head, his eldest Sonne should both inherit his possessions, and Bassawship of Aleppo, otherwise he would come with great forces in all expedition, and in his proper person he would utterly raze him and all his, from the face of the earth.

At which expression, the Bassaw knowing that he was not able to resist the invincible Armie of his Master, and his owne presence, he dismounted from his horse, and went to counsell with his sonnes, and nearest friends: where he, and they concluded, it was best for him to dye, being an old man, to save his race undestroyed, and to keepe his sonne in his authority and inheritance: This done, the Bassaw went to prayer, and taking his leave of them all, sate downe upon his knees, where the Showse [The Bassa of Aleppo beheaded.] stroke off his head, putting it in a Boxe, to carry it with him for Constantinople. The dead corps were carried to Aleppo and honourably buried, for I was an eye witnesse to that funerall feast: And immediatly thereafter, the Showse by Proclamation and power from the Emperour, fully possessed the sonne in his Fathers lands, offices, Bassawship, and the authority of all the Easterne Syria, part of Mesopotamia, and the Assyrian Countrey; for this Bassaw of Aleppo is the greatest in commandement and power of all the other Bassawes in the Turkes dominions; except the Bassa, or Beglerbeg of Damascus; and yet the former in hereditary power, farre exceedeth the other; being a free Emeer, and thereupon a Prince borne: The force of his commandement reacheth to eighteene Sanzacks, and thirty thousand Timariots, besides Janisaries, and other inferiour souldiers, which would make up as many more.

This City is called in the Scriptures Aram-Sobab, 2. Sam. 8. 3. and Aleppo of Alep, which signifieth milke, whereof there is a great plenty here: There are Pigeons brought up here as after an incredible manner, who will flie betweene Aleppo, and Babylon, being thirty dayes [Flying Pigeons with letters.] journey distant in forty eight houres: carrying letters and newes, which are tied about their neckes, to Merchants of both Townes, and from one to another; who onely are imployed in the time of hasty and needfull intendements; their education to this tractable expedition is admirable, the flights and arrivals of which I have often seene in the time of my wintering in Aleppo, which was the second Winter after my departure from Christendome.

[Syria.] Syria hath on the East Armenia major: On the South Mesopotamia: On the North Cilicia and the sea: On the West Gallilee and Phoenicia: In the Bible the Syrians are called Aramites, who were an obscure people subject to the Persians, and subdued by Alexander: after whose death this Countrey, with Persia, and other adjacent Provinces fell to the share of Seleucus Nicanor; who also wrested from the successors of Antigonus, the lesser Asia. This Kingdome hath suffered many alterations, especially by the Persians, Grecians, Armenians, Romanes, Ægyptians, lastly, by the Turkes, and dayly molested by the incursive Arabs.

In my expectation here, and the Spring come, (being disappointed of my desired aimes) I pretended to visite Jerusalem in my backe-comming; and for the furtherance of my determination, I joyned with a Caravan of Armenians, and Turkes, that were well guarded with Janisaries, and Souldiers; of whom some were to stay at Damascus by the way, and some mindfull to the furthest marke. And for my better safegard (being alwaies alone which by all, was ever much admired) the Venetian Consull tooke surety of the Captaine, that he should protect me safely from theeves, cut-throates, and the exactions of tributes by the way, delivering me freely into the hands of the Padre Guardiano at Jerusalem: Which being done, I hired a Mule from a Turke, to carry my victuals; and so set forward with them. The number of our company [A Caravan of Armenians.] were about 900. Armenians, Christian Pilgrimes, men and women: 600. Turkes trafficking for their owne businesse, and 100. souldiers, three Showsses, and sixe Janizaries, to keepe them from invasions.

Betweene Aleppo and Damascus, we had nine dayes journey, in five of which, we had pleasant travelling, and good Canes to lodge in, that had beene builded for the support of Travellers, and are well maintained: But when we passed Hamsek, which is a little more then midway, we had dangerous travelling, being oft assailed with Arabs, fatigated with rocky mountaines, and sometimes in point of choaking for lacke of water. The confusion of this multitude, was not onely grievous in regard of the extreame heate, providing of victuals at poore Villages, and scarcity of water, to fill our bottles, made of Boare-skinnes; but also amongst narrow and stony passages, thronging, we oft fell one over another, in great heapes; in danger to be smothered: yea; and oftentimes we that were Christians, had our bodies well beaten, by our conducting Turkes. In this journeying I remember the Turke who ought my Mule, was for three dayes exceeding favourable unto me, in so much, that I began to doubt of his carriage, fearefully suspecting the Italian Proverbe.

Chi mi famiglior, che non ci suole, Ingannato mi ha, o ingannar mi Vuole.

He that doth better now, to me than he was wont, He hath deceiv'd, or wil deceive, me with some sad affront.

But when I perceived, his extraordinary service and [Pagan flattery.] flattery, was onely to have a share of the Tobacco I carried with me, I freely bestowed a pound thereof upon him: Which he and his fellowes tooke as kindly, as though it had beene a pound of gold, for they are excessively adictted to smoake, as Dutch men are to the Pot: which ever made me to carry Tobacco with me, to acquist their favour, over and above their fials, more then ever I did for my owne use: for in these dayes I tooke none at all, though now as time altereth every thing, I am (Honoris Gratia) become a courtly Tobacconist; more for fashion then for liking: The Turkish Tobacco pipes are more than a yard long and commonly of Wood or Canes, beeing joynd in three parts, with Lead or white Iron; their severall mouths receaving at once, a whole ounce of Tobacco; which lasteth a long space, and because of the long pipes, the smoake is exceeding cold in their swallowing throates.

At our accustomed dismounting to recreate our selves, and refresh the beasts, I would often fetch a walke, to stretch my legs, that were stifled with a stumbling beast; wherewith the Turkes were mightily discontented, and in derision would laugh, and mocke me: For they cannot abide a man to walke in turnes, or stand to eate; their usage being such, that when they come from the horse backe, presently sit downe on the ground, folding their feete under them, when they repose, dine, and suppe. So doe also their Artizans and all the Turkes in the World sit allwayes crosse legged, wrongfully abusing the commendable consuetude of the industrious Tailors. In their houses they have no bed to lye on, nor chaire to sit on, nor table to eate on, but a bench made of boords along the house side, of a foot high from the floore, spred over with a Carpet; whereon they usually sit eating, drinking, sleeping, resting, and doing of manuall exercises, all in one place. Neither will the best sort of Mahometans be named Turkes, because it signifieth banished in the Hebrew tongue, and therefore they call [Turkes are called Musilmans.] themselves Musilmans, to wit, good beleevers: where in deed for good, it is a false Epithite, but certainely for firme beleevers they are wonderfull constant; and so are all ignorants of whatsoever profession: even like to the Spaniard, who in the midst of all his evills, yet he remaineth alwaies fidele to all the usurpations, the Hispanicall Crowne can compasse.

They never unclothe themselves when they goe to rest, neither have they any bed-clothes, save onely a coverlet above them: I have seene hundreds of them after this manner, lie ranked like durty swine, in a beastly stie, or loathsome Jades in a filthy stable.

Upon the ninth day (leaving Cotafa behind us on the mountaines) we entred in a pleasant Plaine of three leagues of length, adorned with many Villages, Gardens, and Rivers; and arriving at Damascus, we were all lodged (some in Chambers wanting beds, and others without, on hard stones) in a great Cane called Heramnen, where we stayed three dayes. Having all which time given us twice a day provision for our selves and provender for our beasts gratis; being allowed by the Grand Signior to all kind of strangers whatsoever; that come to Damascus with any Caravan; being a singular comfort and advantage to weary and extorted Travellers.

[Damascus is called Shamma.] Damascus is the Capitall Citie of Syria, called by Turkes, Shamma, and is situated on a faire Plaine, and beautified with many Rivers on each side, (especially Paraphar and Abdenah) excellent Orchards, and all other naturall objects of elegancy: That for situation, Artizens, all manner of commodities, and varietie of fruits, in all the Asiaticall Provinces it is not paralelled. By Turkes it is called, the Garden of Turkie, or rather their earthly Paradice, because of a fenced Garden there, where a Garison of Turkes lie continually keeping that tree Mouslee, whereon as they alledge the forbidden Aple grew, wherewith the Serpent deceived Eve, and shee Adam, and from whence the great Turke is also styled, keeper of the terrestriall Paradice.

[The antiquitie of Damascus.] Some hold this Citie was built by Eleazer the servant of Abraham; and other say it is the place where Caine slew Abel, where indeed it is most likely to be so: for hard by Damascus I saw a pillar of Brasse erected there for a commemoration of that unnaturall murther of Cain executed upon his innocent brother. But howsoever I perswade thee, it is a pleasant and gallant Citie, well walled, and fortified with a strong Castle, wherein the Bassaw remaineth: the most part of the streets are covered, so that the Citizens are preserved in Summer from the heat, and in Winter from the raine.

The like commoditie (but not after that forme) hath Padua in Lombardy: Their Bazar, or Market place is also covered, so are commonly all the Bazars or Bezestans in Turky: The best Carobiers, Adams Apples, and Grenadiers that grow on the earth is here: neare unto the Bazar there is a Moskie called Gemmah, wherein my Guide shewed me the Sepulcher of Ananias, and the Fountaine where he baptized Paul: In another street, I saw the house of Ananias, which is but a hollow Celler under the ground, and where the Disciples let Paul downe through the wall in a basket: In the street where they fell their Viæno, my Interpreter shewed me a great gate of fine mettall, which he sayd was one of the doores of the Temple of Salomon, and was transported thence, by the Tartarians, who conquered Jerusalem about three hundred and eighty yeares agoe, who for the heavy weight thereof, were enforced to leave it here, being indeede a relicke of wonderfull bignesse: And I saw also such aboundance of Rose-water here in barrels, to be sold, as beere or wine is rife with us.

This Paradisiat Shamma, is the mother City, and most beautiful place of all Asia, resembling every way (the tectures of her Houses excepted being platforme) that matchlesse patterne and mirrour of beauty, the City of Antwerp. The onely best Shables, or short crooked swords, that be in the world are made here; and so are all other their weapons, as halfe Pikes, Bowes, and Arrowes, and Baluckoes of steele, that Horse-men carry in their hands: their shafts being three foot long, their heads great and round, and sharply guttered; wherewith they use to braine or knocke downe their enemies in the field. [The forces of the Bassa of Damascus.] The Beglerbeg or Bassa of Damascus, is the greatest of commandement of all other Bassaes in Asia: Having under his authority (as he is under his Emperour) twenty two Sanzacks, and they conducting under all the aforesayd three, forty thousand Timariots or Horse-men, besides two thousand Janizaries, which are the guard of the Bassa, and Garrison of the Citty. His Beglerbership extendeth over the greater halfe of Syria, a part of the two Arabiaes Foelix and Petrea, Phenicia, Galilee, Samaria, Palestina, Judea, Jerusalem, Idumea, and al the Northerne parts of Arabia Desartuous, even to the frontiers of Egipt.

The meanes of the preservation of so great a state, is only by an induced confidence upon the power, and force of those Timariots who as well have their pay and locall grounds of compensation in time of tranquillitie, as warres, to defend these Countries, from the incursions of the wilde Arabs, which evermore annoy the Turkes, and also Strangers: and cannot possibly be brought to a quiet, and well formed manner of living; but are continuall spoilers of these parts of the Turkes Dominions. That mischiefe daily increaseth, rather then any way diminisheth. They taking example from the beastly Turkes, adde by these patterns more wickednesse, to the badnesse of their owne dispositions: [Savage Arabian Robbers.] So that every one of these Savages, according to his power, dealeth with all men uncivilly & cruelly, even like a wildernesse full of wilde beasts, living all upon rapine and robbery, wanting all sense of humanity, more then a shew of appearance: Whereby being combind together, doe tyrannize over all, even from the red Sea to Babylon.

Thus they in that violent humour, invading also these of Affricke, hath caused Grand Cayro to be furnished with thirty thousand Timariots, which defend the frontiers of Ægypt and Gozan: Leaving all the Turkes at Damascus (save onely our Janizaries and Souldiers) within the space of two houres after our departure from thence travelling in the way to Jerusalem; the whole Armenians fell downe on the ground, kissing it, and making many sincere demonstrations of unwonted devotion. At the which I being amazed, stood gazing, asking my Trench man, what newes? who replied, saying, it was the place where S. Paul was converted, which they had (and all Christianes should have) in great regard. The place was covered with an old Chappell, and,

More like some relict, of exstirpd decay, Than for a monument, reard for the way. To blaze on Pauls conversion: yet it's true The worke was done, even by the Christiane Jew, Or Jacobine: a circumcised kind, Who beare to franks, a most respective mind:

Three dayes were we betwixt Damascus, and the East part of Galilie, which is the beginning of Canaan: in two of which three, we encountred with marishes and quagmires, being a great hinderance to us: This barren, and marish Countrey, is a part of Arabia Petrea, comming in with a point betweene Galilee, and Syria, running along even to the South-west skirt of Libanus, which indeed in that place, farre more than Jordan divideth the true Syria from Canaan; this Petrean Countrey it selfe, devalling even downe to the limits of Jacobs bridge, cutteth away the denomination of Syria, from this parcell of ground, till you come Eastward to the more laborious Plaines.

[A dangerous way.] Through this passage, it is most undoubtedly a very theevish way; for as we travelled in the night, there were many of us forced to carry burning lights in our hands, and our souldiers had their Harquebuzes ready to discharge: all to affray the blood-thirsty Arabians, who in holes, caves, and bushes, lie obscured, waiting for the advantage upon Travellers: not unlike unto the Lawlesse Wood Carnes in Ireland. This part of Arabia is called Petrosa, because it is so rockie, and some thinke of Petra the chiefe Towne: It was aunciently divided in two regions Nabathia, and Agara, possessed first by the Hagarens, discended of Abraham and Hagar: It is also thought to be the land of the Midianites whether Moses fled to, and kept sheepe; and Mount Horeb is here, whereon the Lord did shew him the land of Promise.