Part 20

Where being arrived, they forthwith brought me to a Roome, and there the Guardian washed my right foote with water, and his Viccar my left: and done, they kissed my feete, so did also all the twelve Friers that stood by: But when they knew afterward that I was no Popish Catholicke, it sore repented them of their Labour. I found here ten Frankes newly come the neerest way from Venice hither, sixe of them were Germanes, noble Gentlemen, and they also good Protestants, who were wonderfull glad to heare me tell the Guardian flatly in his face, I was no Romane Catholicke, nor never thought to be: The other foure Frankes were Frenchmen, two of them Parisians old men, the other two of Provance, all foure being Papists: with nine other Commercing Frankes, also that dwelt in Syria and Cyprus, most of them beeing Venetians, who were all glad of me, shewing themselves so kinde, so carefull, so loving, and so honourable in all respects, that they were as kind Gentle-men, as ever I met withall, especially the Germaines: Such is the love of strangers, when they meete in Forraine and remote places. They had also in high respect the adventures of my halfe yeares travaile, East, and beyond Jerusalem: troubling me all the while wee were together, to show them the rare Discourses of my long two yeares survey of Turkey, but especially of my furthest sights in the East of Asia: And were alwayes in admiration that I had no fellow Pilgrime, in my long Peregrination.

THE SIXTH PART

Now come my swift pac'd feete, to Syons seate, And faire Jerusalem: heere to relate Her sacred Monuments, and these sweet places, Were fil'd with Prophets, and Apostles faces: Christs Crub at Bethleem, and Maries Cave, Calvar, and Golgotha, the Holy Grave: Deepe Adraes valley, Hebrons Patriarch'd Tombe, Sunke Lazars pit, whence hee rose from earths wombe: Judeas bounds, and Desarts; that smoaking Lake Which orient folkes do still for Sodome take. Thence view'd I Jordan, and his mooddy streames, Whence I a Rod, did bring to Royall James. The lumpe falne Jerico, and th' Olive Mount, With Gethesamaine, where Christ to pray was wont: The Arabian desarts, then Egypt land I toyling saw, with Nylus swelling strand: Where for discourse, the seaventh part shall thee show What thou mayst learne, and what by sight I know, Of matchlesse Egypt; and her unmatch'd bounds, That twice a yeare, in growth of graine abounds.

Jerusalem, is now called by the Turkes, Kuddish, which is in their Language, a Holy Citie: It was first called Moriah, of Moria, one of the seaven heads of Syon, where Abraham would have sacrificed Isaac, Gen. 22. 2. and upon his offering [Jerusalems antiquity.] it was called Jerusalem, Gen. 14. 18. It was also named Salem, where Sem, or Melchisedech dwelt: and Jerusalem was also called Jebus, 2. Sam. 24. 16. And it is the place where Salomon was commanded to build the Temple, 2. Chron: 3. 1. which afterward was termed Hieron Salomonis, whence came by corruption, that word Hierosolyma. David, also in his Psalmes gave it divers names. And Jerusalem in the Arabick tongue is also called Beyt almo kadas: Beyt signifieth the house, almo kadas, viz. of Saints.

Jerusalem standeth in the same place where old Jerusalem stood, but not so populous, neither in each respect of breadth, or length so spacious: for on the South side of Jerusalem, a great part of Mount Syon is left without, which was aunciently the heart of the old City; and they have taken on the North side, now both Mount Calvary, and the holy grave within the walles, which were built by Sultan Selim: So that thereby the difference of the situation is not so great, though a part thereof be removed; but a man may boldly affirme, that the most part of this City is builded on that place, where the first Jerusalem was: as may truely appeare, and is made manifest by these mountaines, mentioned in the Scriptures, whereupon Jerusalem is both situate, and environed about, who reserve their names to this day, and are still seene, and knowne by the same; [The foure hills of Jerusalem.] as Mount Syon, Mount Calvary, Mount Moriah, and Mount Olivet. The forme of the situation of Jerusalem, is now like to a Hart, or Triangle, the one point whereof looketh East, extending downeward, almost to the valley of Jehosaphat, which divideth Jerusalem, and Mount Olivet: The second head or point, bendeth out South-west upon Sion, bordering neare to the valley of Gehinnon: The third corner lieth on Mount Moriah, toward the North, and by-West, having its prospect to the buriall place of the Kings of Israel.

The walles are high and strongly builded with Saxo quadrato, which adorne Jerusalem more then any thing within it, the Holy Grave excepted. It is of circuite about three miles, and a halfe of our measure. As touching the former glory of this City, I will not meddle withall, nor yet describe, sith the Scriptures so amply manifest the same; concerning the lamentable destruction of it; I refer that to the famous Historiographer Josephus, who largely discourseth of many hundred thousands famished, and put to the sword within this multipotent City, by [The triumph of Titus.] Vespasian, and Titus his sonne; being the messengers of Gods just judgements; which by his computation did amount beyond the number of eleven hundred thousands. But it is to be understood, they were not all at one time in Jerusalem; but came up by turnes and times, from the circumjacent Countries about by thousands, and as they were cut off so their numbers were aye renewed againe as necessity required.

[The overthrow of Jerusalem.] This City hath beene oft conquered by enemies: First, by Nabuchodanezzar, the Assirian King: Secondly, by the Greekes, and Alexander the Great, and also marvellously afflicted by Antiochus: Thirdly, it was taken in by Pompeius: Fourthly, destroyed of Vespasian and Titus: Fifthly, it was reedified by Adrian the Emperour, and wonne againe by Gosdroes, the Persian King: Sixtly, it was overcome by Homer Califf the successour of Mahomet: Seaventhly, by the great Souldan of Egypt, and by Godfrey du Bulloine, a Christiane Prince: Eightly, by Saladine the Caliph of Egypt, and Damascus: Anno 1187. who reserved successively the Signiory thereof for a long time: And lastly, it was surprised by Sultan Selim, or Solyman the Emperour of the Turkes, Anno 1517. joyning the holy Land together with Ægypt to his Empire, who fortified the same, being by Infidels detayned to this day: and by likelihood shall keepe it to the consummation of the world, unlesse God of his mercy deale otherwise, then the hopes of mans weake judgement can expect. Whence truely I may say, that when fortune would change friendship, she disleagueth conditionall amity, with the senselesse litargy of foule ingratitude. This City is now governed by a Sanzack or Subbassaw, being placed there by the Bassaw of Damascus, whose Deputie he is; the other being chiefe Ruler under the Grand Signior over all the holy Land and the halfe of Siria. [The Garrison of Jerusalem.] There is a strong Garrison kept alwayes in Jerusalem, to withstand the Arabish invasions, consisting of eight hundred Souldiers, Turkes, and Moores, who are vigilant in the night and circumspect in the day time, so that none can enter the Towne without their knowledge; nor yet goe forth without their triall. This is a memorable note, and worthy of observation, that at that time, when the Cities of Jerusalem and Antiochia were recoverd from the Pagans by the meanes of Godfrey of Boulloin; the Pope of Rome that then was, was called Urbanus; the Patriarke of Jerusalem Heraclius, and the Romane Emperour Fredericke: [A notable observation.] And at the same time, and long thereafter, when Jerusalem was reinthralled and seazed upon by Saladine; the Popes name was Urbanus; the Patriarke of Jerusalem Heraclius; and the Romane Emperour Fredericke: After Herod the Idumean, soone to Anti-pater, in whose time Christ was borne: Archelaus, Agrippa Herod, who imprisoned Peter and James, and was eaten of vermine, in whose time Christ suffered; and Agrippa minor (before whom Paul pleaded) the last King of the Jews had raigned, (being strange Kings) in the last Kings time Jerusalem was overthrowne, and the Kingdome made a Province of the Romane Empire, Anno 37. After which desolation, the Jewes were over all the world dispersed; but afterward in a zealous consideration, were banished from the most part of the Christian Kingdomes: Out of France they were rejected by Philip the faire, Anno 1307. out of Spaine by Ferdinand the Catholicke, 1492. out of Portugale by Emanuell, 1497. out of England by Edward the fifth, 1290. out of Naples and Sicilia by Charles the fifth, 1539. Yet they are found in great numbers in divers parts of Germany, Poland, and in some Cities of Italy, as Venice and her territories, Florence and the jurisdiction thereof, the principalities of Parma, Mantua, Modena, Urbino, and their extending limits; and finally Rome, (besides her Ecclesiasticall papacy) wherein there are no lesse than twenty thousand of them: They are also innumerable over all the Turkish dominions, who so misregard and hate them, for the crucifying of Christ, that they use to say in detestation of any thing, I would I might dye a Jew; neither will they permit a Jew to turne Turke, unlesse he first be baptized: And yet live, where they wil, the most part of them are the welthiest people in the world, having subtile, and sublime spirits. Now for the severall Kings and Rulers of Judah and Israel, beginning at Moyses, the Judges of the Jewes were 16. of whom Samuel was the last, at which time, the people desired to have a King like unto other Nations.

[The Jewish Kings.] The Kings of the Jewes were three; Saul, David, and Salomon; And the Kings of Judah were twenty, Zedechias being last, in whose time Nabuchodanezzar destroyed Jerusalem. Of the Kings of Israel there were seaventeene, of whom Oseas was the last, in whose time the Israelites were carried captives into Assyria, by King Salmanassor.

[Dukes of Jewry.] The Dukes or Governours of Jewry were fifteene, of which Joannes Hircanius, was the last Governour of Judea, which discended from the stocke of David. During the government of which Captaines, after the Babylonian captivity, the Jewish Kingdome was plagued on both sides, by the Kings of Egypt and Syria: who slaughtered their people, ransacked their Cities, made havocke of their goods, and compelled them to eate forbidden flesh, and sacrifice to Idols.

To reforme which enormities Matathias and his five sonnes valiantly resisted, and overcame the impetuous fury of Antiochus Epiphanes and his Syrians: Whereupon the Jewes chose Judas surnamed Machabeus for their Captaine, one of the worlds nine Worthies; who though not of the line of David, was yet of the tribe of Judah.

The Machabean Princes of Jury were onely foure: Joannes Hircanus the last, who was slaine by the Parthianes. [The Machabean Princes.] Of the Machabean Kings of Judah were other foure, of whom Hircanus sonne to Alexander the tyrant was the last, who being disturbed in his raigne by Aristobulus his yonger brother, with his sonnes Alexander and Antiochus, he was firmely established in his throne by Pompey; & the other carried captives to Rome. But afterward Alexander and Antiochus escaping, the one by pollicy, the other by favour of Julius Cæsar, villanously abused Hircanus: The former was slaine by Scipio, and the latter for his villany was slaine by Marcus Antonius, and the Kingdome given to a stranger, Herod borne in Ascolon of Idumea, as I formerly recited, of which strange Kings there were foure.

[Christian Kings of Jerusalem.] The Christian Kings of Palestine, beginning at Godfrey of Bulloine were nine. Guy of Lysingham being the last King of Jerusalem, and was surprised by Saladine of Egypt, 1187.

And lastly, or at this present time, the Emperours of the line and race of Ottoman, are Lords and Kings over Jerusalem, and the crost, or rather now curst land of Canaan: In whose hands it is faster kept, then the seventeene Belgian Provinces, remaine totally subject to the Spanish power.

But to the intent the Reader may the better conceive, and plainely understand the Monuments I saw within Jerusalem, and the circumjacent places of Judea; I thought best to prefixe the description thereof, by the severall dayes as I saw them, not much condemning, neither absolutely qualifying them, but shall (as it were) neutrally nominate, and recapitulate these places, as I was informed by the Padre Guardiano, Gaudentius, Saybantus, a Veronesen borne; whence he, and every one of them every third yeare are changed and recalled backe to Christendome, and other new Friers sent in their places: And especially the information of John Baptista, the Trenchman, who dwelt and had stayed twenty five yeares in Jerusalem, and from whom the Friers themselves have their informations: for a stranger that understandeth not promptly the Italian tongue, which they usually speake, when they demonstrate these places unto us, hee shall [The ignorance of Travellers.] conceive ignorantly, dispose his judgement blind-foldedly, and knowes not how to distinguish the circumstances, and qualities of the things delivered. As I have knowne some of these Francks, in my company, simply mistaken, even when the exposition of every object was largely manifested unto them; and precisely declared such a thing to have beene there, although perhaps the matter it selfe, be evanished and transported.

About two of the clock on Palme-sunday after dinner, for all of us eate, drunke, and lay in the Monastery, each of us paying a Piaster a day for our dyet, sixe shillings starling, besides all other costs and charges: The Guardian I say, departed from Jerusalem to Bethphage: accompanied with twelve Friers, and many other Orientall Christians, which were come thither to that Festivall time, but I by no meanes would go, neither would the six Germans, but reposing our selves on the top or platforme of the Cloyster, we stayed till their returne: And yet from this place, we saw their back-comming from Bethphage as they crossed the lower and South side of Olivet; devalling downeward, toward the valley of Jehosophat to ascend Mount Sion, for the greater performance of their foolery.

[A superstitious Ceremony.] The rediculous Ceremony which that day they use, is thus: In an Apish imitation of Christ, at the foresayd Bethphage, there was an Asse brought to the Guardiano, whereupon hee mounted (being as it were, the greater Asse, riding upon the lesser) and came riding to Jerusalem, the people cutting downe Boughs of trees, and also dispoyling themselves almost to the skin, bestrewed the way as hee Rode along, crying, Hosanna, Hosanna, the Sonne of David, blessed is hee that commeth in the name of the Lord: untill they came to the South gate of Syon, where the Guardian thought to have entred, Riding through Jerusalem to his monastery, with this shouting convoy of sixe thousand Orientall Christians, because their Patriarkes have not that liberty to do so, as this Italian Guardian: Notwithstanding, the clamour of the people incensed so the Turkish Garrison lying at this Gate, that they not onely abused the poore Christians in their ignorant devotion, but they pulled the Guardian also from the Asses backe, beating him most cruelly, and all the rest of the Friers and Francke Pilgrimes that were with him: Where at last entring the Convent, most of them came in groaning, and loaden with blacke and bloody blowes; whereat I, and the other Protestants, did laugh in our sleeves to behold their foolish Procession, so substantially rewarded. At night after Supper, the Guardiano knowing that I was a Protestant, and also these other Germanes, made an Oration, saying: You Pilgrims, who refuse to be participant with us in the Sacraments, nor wil not adhere to our Masses, processions and Ceremonies which we follow of the Roman Church: I would therfore intreat you (your liberty being here as much as mine, whereby you may do as you please) onely to abstaine from scandalling and mocking our Rites and ordinary Customes, which at this great feast we must performe: To which we condescended, and promised to give no occasion of offence, seeing our outward carriage in going along with them to see their customes, tended no way to hurt the inward disposition of our soules.

In the conclusion of his long Exhortation, hee disclosed this admonition, saying: All of you Travailers must in [A flattering beggary.] general be indued with these three worthy gifts, Faith, Patience, & Mony: Faith, to beleeve these things you shall see here at, and about Jerusalem: Patience, to indure the apparent injuries of Infidels; and Money, to discharge all tributes, and costs, which here (meaning in his owne Monastery) and about this City must be defrayed. His Sermon he concluded like a Grey Frier, as indeede hee was: for I am fully perswaded hee little cared for our Faith, and Patience, providing, that our purses could answere his expectation, as truly we found the condigne trial thereof afterward: making our Patience to startle, our Faith to over-top his lyes, and our monies to bee a slave to his greed; and wee left the last tributary spoyles of two extortionable flatterers, Avarice, and Ignorance; with the which our Reverend Guardian was fully invested.

Monday earely, we Pilgrimes went foorth to view the monuments within the Citty, being accompanied with the Padre Viccario, and a French Predicatore: the places of any note wee saw were these: first they shewed us the place where Christ appeared to Mary Magdalen, who sayd: Touch me not, for I am not yet ascended to my Father, John 20. 15. and this place by them is supposed to be the Center or middle part of the World. Next, where Saint James the first Bishop of the Primitive Church was beheaded: then the House of Saint Thomas, but that is doubtful (say they) because it is not yet confirmed by the Papall Authority: From thence they brought us to the place where Annas one of the High Priests dwelt, and also the Tree to the which our Saviour was bound, whiles Annas was making himselfe ready to leade him to Caiphas; but that I wil not beleeve, for that Tree groweth yet, being an Olive Tree. They shewed us also the house where Saint Peter was imprisoned, when his fetters were shaken off his legges, and the Prison doores cast open, and hee relieved: And where Zebedeus the Father of James and John dwelt, which are nothing but a lumpe of Ruines.

[Caiphas Lodging.] Thence wee came to the decayed lodging of Caiphas, without the Citty, uppon the mount Syon, whereupon there is a Chappell builded, and at the entry of that little Domo, we saw the stone, on which the Cocke crew, when Peter denied Christ. Within the same place is the stone that was rolled to the Sepulcher doore of our Saviour, being now made an Altar to the Abasines. These Abasines, are naturally borne blacke, and of them silly Religious men, who stay at Jerusalem, in two places, to wit, heere at Caiphas House, on mount Syon, and the other Convent on mount Moriah, where Abraham would have sacrificed Isaac: They weare on their heads flat round Caps of a blackish colour, and on their bodies long gownes of white Dimmety, or linnen cloath, representing Ephods: the condition of themselves being more devoute, than understanding the true grounds or their devotion, blind zeale and ignorance overswaying their best light of knowledge. They being a kinde of people, which came from Prester Jehans dominions.

And within that Chappel they shewed us a narrow pit, wherein (say they) Christ was incarcerat, the night before he was brought to the Judgement Hall. Upon the same side of Syon, we saw the place, where Christ did institute the Sacraments: and not far hence, a decayed House, where (say they) the Holy-Ghost discended upon the Apostles, and also the Sepultures of David, and his sonne Salomon: Over the which, there is a Moskie, wherein no Christian may enter, to see these monuments. For the Turkes doe great Reverence, to most of all the ancient Prophets of the old Testament.

From thence we returned, and entred in via dolorosa, the dolorous way, by which our Lord and Savior passed, when he went to be crucified, carrying the Crosse upon his Backe: And at the end of the same streete (say they) the Souldiers met Simon of Cyrene, and compelled him to helpe Christ, to beare his Crosse when hee fainted. [Pilats judgement Hall.] Pilats Judgment Hall, is altogether ruinated, having but onely betweene the two sides of the Lane, an olde Arch of stone, under the which I passed, standing ful in the high Way: Here they shewed us the place, where Christ first tooke up his Crosse, and on the top of that Arche, wee saw that place called Gabbatha, where Jesus stood, when Pilat sayd to the Jewes, Ecce homo.

A little below this, they brought us to the Church of Saint Anna, where (say they) the Virgin Mary was borne. And going downe another narrow Lane, they poynted in to a House, and sayd, heere Dives the rich Glutton dwelt, who would not give to Lazarus the Crummes of Bread that fel from his Table: this I suspend, amongst many other things, for all hold it to bee a Parable, and not a History: And although it were a History, who can demonstrate the particular place, Jerusalem having beene so often transformed by alterations.

This I must needes say, with such leying wonders, these flattering Friers, bring Strangers into a wonderful admiration, and although I rehearse all I saw there, yet I will not beleeve all, onely publishing them as things indifferent, some whereof are frivolous, and others somewhat more credible: But as I sayd before, I will make no (or very small) distinction in the Relation.

From thence we came without the Easterne gate, (standing on a low Banke, called the daughter of Syon, that over-toppeth the valley of Jehosophat,) unto an immoveable stone, upon the which they sayd St. Stephen was stoned to death, the first Martyr of the Christian faith; and the faithfull fore-runner of many noble followers. As we returned to our owne Convent, they brought us to mount Moriah, and shewed us the place where [Abrahams faith.] Abraham offered up Isaac, which is in the custody of Nigroes or Æthiopians: to whom each of us payed ten Madins of Brasse, the common coine of Jerusalem, for our in going to that place. And the other monastery that these Abasines detaine, is on mount Sinay in the Desarts, where the body of S. Katherine lyeth buried, which is richly maintained, and strongly kept by the Æthiopian Emperor: There are 200. Religious Abasines in it, and 100. souldiers to guard them from the incursions of Arabs, who continually molest them, because [Mount Sinay.] mount Sinay standeth in midst of that desolate Arabian wildernesse, and far from any civill or inhabited place; being distant from Jerusalem about 70. English miles. Next they shewed us the place where Jesus sayd, Daughters of Jerusalem, mourne not for me, &c. And neere unto this, where the virgin Mary fell into an agony, when Jesus passed by carrying his Crosse: Also, not farre hence, we beheld the place, where (as they say) Jesus said to his mother, woman, behold thy Sonne, and to S. John behold thy mother.