Part 18

Divers of these Petrean Arabs, converse, and dwell amongst the Turkes; whom we tearme in respect of the other, civill Arabs. South from hence, lieth Arabia Fælix bordering with the Indian Sea; which is the most fruitfull and pleasant soyle in all Asia; abounding with Balsamo, Myrrhe, and Frankincense, Gold and Pearles, especially about Medina, the second Citie to Meccha: The other Townes of note are Horan, the chiefe Port of the South Ocean, And Alteroch, the only Towne where Christians are in greatest number in that Countrey.

Truely with much difficulty, and greater danger passed we these [Arabia Petrea.] Petrean journeys. Here I remarked a singular qualitie, and rare perfection, in the carefull conduction of our Captaine; who would, when we came to any dangerous place, give the watch-word of St. Johanne, meaning as much thereby, that none should speake or whisper after that warning under the paine of a Harquebusado. And no more we durst, unlesse he had stretcht out his hand, making us a signe (when occasion served) of liberty, least by our tumultuous noyse in the night, our enemies should have the fore-knowledge of our comming; and knowing also that the nature of a multitude, bred all times confused effects, without some severe punishment. Him selfe rod stil in the Vangard, upon a lusty Gelding, with two Janizaries, and forty Souldiers, and the other foure Janizaries and sixty Souldiers, were appointed to be the backe-gard, for feare of sudden assaults. Thus, most dexteriously discharged he the function of his calling, not with insolencie, but with prudent and magnanimous virilitie: for my part, I must needs say, the diligent care of that benigne Caravan extended over me, was such, that whensoever I remember it, I am not able to sacrifice congratulations sufficiently to his well-deserving mind: yet in the meane while, my Purse bountifully rewarded his earnest endevours; and notwithstanding, of this high conceived regard, yet in some frivolous things, and for a small trifle, he privately wronged me, which I misknew, as unwilling (knowing his disposition, and that my life hung in his hands) to be too forward to seeke a redresse. For oftentimes an [A corrupted Caravan.] inconvenience is most convenient; and as the great corrupter of youth is pleasure, and the violent enemy of age is griefe; even so are the inordinate desires of inconscionable strangers toward Travellers, who preferring avarice above honesty, care onely for that part of a man which is his fortune, whose friendship beginning onely in an outward show, must end in the midst of a mans money; as who would say, such like were rather imployed, as their imployments rewarded, and therefore in unlawfull things they must sucke the honey of their owne preposterous ends: And thus it fared with him, at the paying of my tributes, by the way for my head, he caused me oft to pay, more then reason, to the Moores, Turkes, and civill Arabs, receiving secretly backe from them the over-plus; which my Turkish Servant perceiving, made my Trenchman tell me, that I might be fore-seene therein.

But such is the covetous nature of man, that with his covenant he cannot be contented, unlesse he seeke otherwise, by all unlawfull meanes to purchase himselfe an unjust gaine: But the high respect I had of his other perfections, made me oversee and winke at that imperfection of avaritiousnesse in him; and especially remembring my selfe to be under his protection, I alwayes endeavoured my aimes so, that in his sight, I wonne extraordinary favour: insomuch, that in danger, or securitie, he would ever have me neere by him, which I also craved, and strove to observe the points of his will, and my owne safety.

The obligation of my bounden duety, taught me to no other end, then ever to respect the benevolence of his affection, and to suppresse my owne weake judgement, which could never mount to the true acquittance of his condigne merit.

But to proceed in my Pilgrimage, on the aforesaid third day, in the after-noone, we entred in Galilee, passing along a faire Bridge, that is over the River Jordan, which divideth a part of this stony Arabia from Galilee. [Jacobs Bridge.] This Bridge by the Armenians, is called Jacobs Bridge; and not farre hence, they shewed me the place, where Jacob wrestled with the Angell, and where Esau met his brother Jacob, to have killed him being upon the East side of the River: Jordan is scarcely knowne by the name in this place: but afterward I saw his greater growth, ending in Sodome, whereof in the owne place, I shall more amply discourse: Betweene Jacobs Bridge and Jerusalem, we had sixe dayes journey, five whereof were more pleasant than profitable, in regard of the great tributs I payd by the way for my head, that at sundry places and into one day, I have payd for my freedome in passage twelve Chickens of gold, amounting to five pounds eight shillings of English money: A journall tribute more fit for a Prince to pay, than a Pilgrime; the admiration onely resting upon this, how I was furnished with these great moneyes I dayly disbursed.

Aprill the eighteene day, according to the computation of the Romane Calender, and by ours, March the eight and twenty, I entred in Galilee, a Province of Canaan; This Countrey was first called Canaan from Canan the sonne of Cham: secondly the Land of Promise, because it was promised By the Lord to Abraham and his seed to possesse: Thirdly, the land of Israel, of the Israelites, so called from Jacob, who was surnamed Israel: Fourthly, Judea, from the Jewes, or the people of the tribe of Judah: Fifthly, Palestine quasi Philistim, the land of the Philistins. And now sixtly, terra sancta, the holy land, because herein was wrought many wonderfull miracles, but especially the worke of our salvation. It is in length 180. and in breadth 60. miles: yet of that salubrity of aire and fertility of soyle, flowing with milke and hony, that before the comming of the Israelites it maintayned thirty Kings, with their people, and afterward the two potent Kingdomes of Israel and Judah; in which David numbred one million and 300000. fighting men, besides them of the tribe of Benjamin and Levi: It is most certayne, that by the goodnesse of the Climate and soile, especially by the [Canaan greatly changed.] blessing of God, it was the most fruitfull Land in the World: but by experience, I find now the contrary, and the fruitfulnes thereof to be changed, God cursing the Land together with the Jewes, then the (but now dispersed) inhabitants thereof. Neither are the greatest part of these Easterne countries so fertile, as they have beene in former ages, the earth as it were growing olde, seemeth weary to beare the burthen of any more encrease; and surely the two eyes of Day and Night, with the Planets, and Starres, are become neyther so forcible, so bright, nor warme as they have beene: Time from olde antiquity, running all things to devasted desolation, making the strong things weake, and weake things feeble, at last it returneth all things to just nothing: and there is the end of all beginnings, and an infallible Argument of the dissolution to come by the day of judgement.

As things that are, still vanish from our eye, So things that were, againe shall never be: The Whirlwind of Time, still so speedy posts, That like it selfe, all things therein, it tosts.

The Jewes are also tearmed Hebrai, or Hebrewes from Heber one of Abrahams Progenitors, or Hebræ quasi Abrahæi: who at their discent into Egypt, were but seventy soules being the issue of Jacob, and his twelve Sonnes. The posterity of which Patriarchy, continued in bondage two hundred and fifteene yeares, till in the yeare of the world, two thousand foure hundred fifty three: At which time, the Lord commiserating their heavy oppressions under the Egyptians, delivered them with a strong hand, and placed them here: which then was inhabited by the Hittites, Amorites, Perisits, and Jebusits. [The Holy Land.] Canaan is divided into five Provinces, viz. Judea, Galilee, Palestina, Samaria, and Phenicia: Some divide it only in three, Palestina, Judea, and Galilee: It hath beene by others also nominated in generall, Syria, by which Calculation, they gathered all the Countries from Cilicia to Egypt under that name. But howsoever they differ in Descriptions, it is most certayne, that at this day, it is onely, and usually divided into these five

## particular Provinces: Galilee, and Palestina, for the present, are

the most fertile and largest Provinces thereof, especially Galilee, which in some parts, yeeldeth graine twice a yeare, and for abundance of Silke, Cotton-woole, delicate Wines, Hony, Oyle, and fruites of all kindes; I hold it never a whit more decayed now, than at any time when the glory of Israel was at the highest: This province of Galilee is forty eight miles long, and twenty five broad, having Phenicia to the North: Samaria to the west: Jordan to the South: and to the East and North-East, a part or poynt of Arabia-Petrosa, and the South-west end of Libanus.

After we had travailed a great way, along the Lake of Genasareth, which is of length eight leagues, and large foure: where I saw the decayed Townes of Bethsaida, and Tyberias, lying on the North-side of the same Sea, we left the Marine, and came to Cana, to stay all night: in which wee had no Canes to save us from the Arabs, nor coverture above our heads, but the hard ground to lye on, which was alwayes my Bed, in the most parts of Asia: In the night, when we slept, the Souldiers kept Centinell, and in the day, when we Reposed, they slept, and we watched.

[Cana in Galilee.] This Cana was the towne wherein our Saviour wrought the first Miracle, converting at the Marriage, Water into Wine: And is now called by the Turkes Callieros or Calinos, being a towne composed of two hundred fire Houses: The inhabitants beeing partly Arabs,

## partly Jewes, and partly some Christian Georgians: the circumjacent

fieldes, beeing both Fertile, Delectable, and plaine.

The day following, imbracing our way, wee passed over a little pleasant Mountayne, where the Armenian Patriarke (for so was there one with them) went into an old Chappell, and all the rest of the Pilgrimes thronged about him, using many strange Ceremonies, for it was in that place (as they sayd) Where Christ fed five thousand people, with five Barley loaves, and two fishes. And indeede was very likely to have beene the place: the auncient Chappell, showing as yet some beautiful decorements, do dignifie both the Monument, and the Memory of the Founder thereof.

Continuing our journey, wee saw Mount Tabor on our left hand, which is a pretty round Mountaine, beset about with comely trees: I would gladly have seene the Monument of that place, where the Transfiguration of Christ was: But the Caravan, mindfull to visite Nazareth, left the great way of Jerusalem, and would by no perswasion go thither.

That night we lodged in a poore Village, called Heerschek, where we could get neither meate for our selves, nor provender for the Beasts, but some of our Company for their supper, had a hundred stroakes from the Moores and Arabs in that place, because the Christian Pilgrimes had troden upon the graves of their dead friends, which by no meanes they can tollerate: They made no small uproare amongst us, desperately throwing stones and darts, till we were all glad to remove halfe a mile from that place; and the next morning we passed by [Cæsarea Philippi.] Cæsarea Philippi which is now so miserably decayed, that the ruined Towne affordeth not above twenty foure dwelling houses, being for ruines, a second Towne, to sacked Samaria, or another spectacle of time like to the now ragged Towne of the Moorish Bethulia: It was built by Philip one of the Tetrarchs in honour of Tiberius Cæsar, and now called by the Moores Hedarasco. Here was Herod smitten by the Angels, and eaten of wormes, after the Sycophanticall people called his Rethoricall oration, the voyce of God, and not of man: Here our Saviour healed the woman of the bloody fluxe, and raised from death to life the daughter of Jairus: Here S. Peter baptized Cornelius, and S. Paul disputed against Tertullius in the presence of Felix.

Aprill the 20. day, about ten of the clocke, (passing the River Kyson) we arrived at Nazareth, and there reposed till the evening, providing our selves of victuals and water: In this Towne dwelt Joseph, and the Virgin Mary; and in which also our Saviour was brought up under the vigilant care of Joseph and Mary. After wee had dined, the Armenians arose, and went to a heape of stones, the ruines of an old house, before the which they fell downe upon their knees; praysing God: And that ruinous lumpe (say they) was the house where Mary dwelt, when Gabriel saluted her, bringing the Annunciation of Salvation to the World: I am fully perswaded, they carried away above five thousand pounds weight, to keepe in a [A counter buffet for Loretta.] memoriall thereof: then did I remember of the Chappell of Loretta, and told the Caravan, that I saw that house standing in Italy, which (as the Romanists say) was transported by the Angels: O, said he, we Armenians cannot beleeve that, neither many other assertions of the Roman Church; for we certainely know by Christians, that have from time to time dwelt here ever since, that this is both the place, and stones of the house: Let Papists coyne a new Law to themselves, we care not, for as they erre in this, so doe they erre in all, following meerely the traditions of men, they runne galloping post to Hell. The Patriarke being informed by the laughing Caravan of these newes, asked me in disdaine (thinking it had beene an Article of my beliefe) if I saw that house, or beleeved that the Chappell of Loretta was such a thing: to whom I constantly answered, I did not beleeve it, affirming it was onely but a divellish invention, to deceive the blind-folded people, and to fill the Coffers of the Romane Priests: Now thou bottomlesse Gulfe of Papistry, here I forsake thee, no Winter-blasting Furies of Satans subtile stormes, can make ship-wracke of my Faith, on the stony shelfes of thy deceitfull deepes.

Thus, and after this manner too: are all the illusions of their imaginary and false miracles, first invented partly by monasteriall poverty, then confirmed by provincial bribery, and lastly they are faith-sold for consistoricall lucre. In the time of our staying here, the Emeere or Lord of the Towne sent sixe women, conducted by 12. of his servants, to an Armenian Prince, that was a Pilgrime in our company; to be used by him and others, [Libidinous leachery.] whom so he would elect to be his fellow labourers: Which indeed he did kindly accept, & invited me to that feast: but I gave him the refusall, little regarding such a frivolous commodity. He, and some of the chiefest Pilgrimes entertained them for the space of 3. houres, and sent them backe, giving to their conductors fifteene Piasters, in a reward. Truely if I would rehearse the impudency of these Whoores, and the bruitishnesse of the Armenians, as it is most ignominious to the actors; so no doubt, it would be very loathsome to the Reader.

Such is the villanie of these Orientall slaves under the Turkes; that not onely by conversing with them, learne some of their damnable Hethnicke customes, but also going beyond them in beastly sensualnesse, become worse then bruite beasts: This maketh me remember a worthy saying of that Heathnish Romane Emperour Marcus Aurelius, who in consideration of fleshly lusts, said; that although he were sure, that the Gods would not punish him for the offence; yet he would forbeare it, in regard of the filthinesse of the fact it selfe: Indeed of a Pagane a noble and vertuous resolution, when such base and beastly Christianes, these wretched Armenians, committed with these Infidelish harlots a twofold kind of voluptuous abhomination, which my conscience commands me to conceale: least I frequent this Northern world, with that which their nature never knew, nor their knowledge have heard hearing of the like: but God in his just judgements, that same night, threatned both to have punished the doers, and the whole company for their sakes: For we having resolved to travell all that night, and because the way was rocky, and hard to be knowne, and perillous for Arabs; we hired a Christian guide, named Joab, and agreed with him to take us to Lidda, which was two dayes journey. But before we advanced to our passage, Joab had sent a privie messenger before us, to warne about three hundred Arabs (who had their abode on the South side [A villanous plot.] of Mount Carmell) to meete him at such a place as he had appointed; giving them to know, wee were rich and well provided with Chickens and Sultans of gold, and Piasters of silver; and that he should render us into their hands for such a recompense and consideration, as their savage judgements should thinke fit; according to the spoyles and booties they should obtaine, together with the miserable murder and losse of our lives. This being done, and unknowne to us, we marched along, travelling faster then our ordinary pace, some on horse, and some on foote, for my pilgrimage was ever pedestriall: which our guide suspecting, that by our celerity wee should goe beyond the place appointed for his treacherous plot, began to crosse us grievously; leading us up and downe amongst pooles and holes, whither he listed; where many of our Camels & Asses were lost, and could not be recovered, because we all began to suspect and feare; which was the cause that the owners durst not stay to relieve their perishing beasts.

In the end, the Captaine and Janisaries, intreated him earnestly to bring us in the right way; but the more they requested, the more obdurat was his heart, replying, he was mistaken, and could not finde it, till day light: upon the which words, the company was stayed, and in the meanewhile there came a Turke, one of our Souldiers unto the Captaine, saying; he saw the guide, before our [A treacherous guide.] departure from Nazareth, send a Moore before him, for what respect he knew not, being long at privat conference. Whereupon, they straight bound him with ropes, on a horse backe, threatning him with death, to cause him confesse the trueth.

In the midst of this tumult, I having got sight of the North-starre, (which seemd exceeding low to me) considered thereby, that the villaine had led us more to the Southward, then to the Westward, which was our way to Jerusalem: Whereupon I intreated the Caravan to turne our faces Northward, otherwise we should be cut off, and that suddenly: for although (said I) it may peradventure be, that we are three or foure miles short of the place intended for our massacre, yet they missing us, will like ravening Wolves hunt here and there; wherefore, if we incline to the North, (God willing) we shall prevent their bloody designes. To the which advice (being duely pondered) they yeelded; and so I became their guide, in that darke night, till morning: for none of them knew that Starre, neither the nature of it. At last this desperate wretch considering that either by our vanquishing, or the enemies victory, he could not escape, sith his treason was revealed; began to beg pardon of the Caravan, saying that if he could have any surety of his life, he would sufficiently informe us, how to eschew these eminent dangers, for we were all in extreame perill of our lives; and not so much courage nor comfort left us, as the very smallest hope of any reliefe.

The Captaine being distracted with feare, replied he would, and thereupon swore a solemne oath, so did the Janisaries sweare by the head of Mahomet, for the like effect: Which being done, he was untied, and confessed, that if we had continued in our way, he led us, wee had beene all put to the edge of the Sword: and falling down on his knees, cried oft with teares, mercy, mercy, mercy.

All that night we went with the Starre, and against morning wee were in the Westerne confines of Phoenicia, and at the beginning of Palestine, close by the marine, and within halfe a mile of Tyrus. This sometimes renowned [Tyrus is called Sur.] Citty of Tyrus, called now by the Moores Sur, was famous for her Purples, and Collonies dispersed over all the World by her Citizens; and once a kingdome of great antiquity and long continuance. The most worthiest of her Kings, were Hiram in strict bond of Confederacy, with Salomon, and Pigmalion the brother of Dido, who built Carthage: This seat, giving way to the Persian Monarchy, was about the overthrow of Darius, beleagured by Alexander: who had so much adoe with extraordinary expence of men, money, and great labour to conquer it, being then separated from the maine Continent, by the Sea, but now joyned to the firme Land: and before you come to the Citty, there lyeth a great banke of sand, where it is likely the Sea hath beene in Alexanders time: Though now, as time altereth every thing, the Sea be fled from that place, which maketh that ruinous Towne seeme more desolate. At the breach of day, I, and certaine Armenians went to visite this decayed Towne, and found the most famous ruines here, that the World for memory can affoord, and a Delicious incircling Harbour, inclos'd within the middle of the Towne, fit to receive smal Barkes, Frigots, and Galleots: the compassing fore-face whereof, beeing all of foure squard Marble and Alabaster stones: the most part of all which Houses have stood on pillars of the same stones: the [The ruines of Tyrus.] infinite number whereof, may as yet bee, (above and below the Sands) perspectively beheld. There be onely some nineteene fire houses heere, which are Moores: and is now under the Emeere of the Drusians, who remayneth in Sydon. The East part of this Countrey aboundeth in Balme, Honny, and Oyle, and was the Seate of Asher of whom Moses prophecied, Deut. 33. 24. that hee should dippe his feete in Oyle.

Here these Egyptian Moores, for so they were first bred there: brought us to a pillar lying upon the ground, of nine severall colours of Marble, being one intire stone, and the length of it was twenty two foot of my measure, and eight in compasse: Which sayd they, was one of the [Sampsons Pillar.] pillars that Sampson pulled downe upon the Philistines at the houre of his Death. To whom I answered, that Sampson dyed at Azath, the furthest South-west part of Palestine, where hee bore downe the House of Dagon, upon the Philistines: And I thinke the auncient Tyrians, sayd I, could not transport that Pillar so far hither: But they the more constantly affirmed it, and so did these Armenians that were with mee confirme it also, some of whom, had beene twice there before: yet howsoever it was, I brought home a pound weight of it, and presented the halfe thereof, to King James of blessed Memory.