Part 29

The Kingdome of Tunneis comprehended once the whole Countrey that the auncients called properly Affrick or little Affrick, being the old Numidia, and was divided then in these five Provinces, Bugia, Constantino, that of Tunneis, Tripoly, and Ezzebba. In the Towne of Bugia, lying halfe way twixt Tunneis and Algeir, and 40. leagues from either being now called Arradetz, there was auncient beautifull Temples, Colledges, magnifick buildings, Hospitals, and Convents after their fashion: but the Towne being taken, and razed Anno 1508. by Peter King of Navarre, it hath remained ever since without beauty or ornament, save a few rusticke Inhabitants.

[The marine provinces twixt Tunneis and Algier.] The province of Constantine, lyeth twixt Tunneis and Bugia; the Towne Constantine, now Abirouh, being Capitall, and was surnamed Cortes and Julia: It is begirded with Rockes, and auncient walles contayning eight hundred fire-houses, wherein are the relicts of an Arke triumphant, formerly built by the Romanes; and in this Province sixteene leagues within land, was the Towne of Hippo, now Bosen, whereof St. Augustine was Bishop.

The Territory of Tunneis, lyeth betweene the borders of Abirouh Westward, and the limits of Tripoly Eastward, being of length foure score miles: and on this Sea-coast lyeth the Towne Biserta, adorned with a commodious Haven, and sixe Gallies, the most scelerate of condition, and celerious in flying or following of all the cursares in Turky: Tripoly in Barbary, (commonly called so) was once drowned by the Sea, but now its situation was transported safely a little more Southward; which sometimes was beautified with Merchants of Genoa, Ragusa, and Venice, but now become a den of theeves, and Sea-Pirats, and so are all the marine Townes, twixt Ægypt and Morocco.

The last Province of the kingdom of Numidia, is Ezzebba lying East from Tripoly, and confining with Cyreno a pendicle of Ægipt: The chiefest part whereof is Messaicke being twenty foure Leagues from Tripoly, contayning many Villages, and Townes on the playnes and Mountaynes, abounding in Silkes, Cornes, and diverse Fruites.

All these five Maritine Provinces, have but narrow Inlands, not advancing South-ward from the Sea coast above forty miles. Here in Tunneis I met with our [An English Pyrat Captaine Waird.] English Captayne, generall Waird, once a great Pyrat, and Commaunder at Sea; who in despight of his denied acceptance in England, had turned Turke, and built there a faire Palace, beautified with rich Marble and Alabaster stones: With whom I found Domesticke, some fifteene circumcised English Runagates, whose lives and Countenances were both alike, even as desperate as disdainfull. Yet old Waird their maister was placable, and joyned me safely with a passing Land conduct to Algiere; yea, and diverse times in my ten dayes staying there, I dyned and supped with him, but lay aboord in the French shippe.

At last having obtayned my pasport from the Bassaw there, and surety taken for my life and moneyes, I imbraced the Land way with this Conduct, consisting of forty Moores, and a hundred Camels loaden with Silkes, Dimmeteis, and other Commodities, traversing the aforesayd Regions of Abirouh, and Arradetz. In all which way (lying nightly in a Tent) I found a pleasant and fruitfull Country, abounding in Wines, Rye, Barly, Wheate, and all kinde of fruites, with innumerable villages, and so infinitely peopled, that it made me wish there had beene none at all; otherwise that they had beene Christians, and so more civill.

The greatest enemy this journey designed mee, was the Sunne, whose exceeding heate was intollerable to indure, being in September Anno 1615. But for provision of Water, Wine, and Victuals wee had abundance. Upon the seaventh day of our course, wee entred in the [Tremizen in Barbary.] Countrey of Tremizen, formerly Mauritanea Cæsarea: This Kingdome hath to the West Mauritanea Tingitana, contayning the Empire of Morocco and Fez. On the South Gotulia or Desartuous Numidia. On the East with the Rivers of Muluia and Amphlaga, the Marches of Arradetz. And on the North the Sea Mediterren, opposite to Sardinia. The Countrey is in length from the East to the West, some twenty five of their courses, and of our miles about three hundred; and of breadth betweene the Sea and Gotulia, no more than thirty English miles.

This copious Kingdome in all things, hath beene oft and ever molested with the Numidian Sarazens, or bastard Arabs, who falling downe from the Mountaines, do runne their carriere at random upon the ground-toyled Moores, to satisfie their needy and greedy desires. Tremizen or Telensim, had of old foure Provinces, but now onely two [The Towne of Tremizen decayed with Warres.] its owne Territory, and that of Algier: Whose capitall Towne being too cognominated Tremizen, contayned once eighteene thousand fire houses. But in regard of Josephus King or Fez, who besieged it seaven yeares, over-mastering it and then subdued by Charles the fifth, and likewise the Turkes investion of it, and finally because of the long warres, twixt the Seriff or King there, and the Turke; it is become a great deale lesser and almost disinhabited, and the most part of that Countrey subject to the authority of the Bassaw of Algier.

At last upon the twelfth day of our leaving Tunneis, having arrived at Algier, and abandoning my Conduct with a good respect, I stayed in a Spaniards house, turned Runagate, who kept a roguish Taverne, and a ground planked Hospitality. In all this way of twelve score miles, I payed no Tribute, neyther had I any eminent perrill, the Country being peaceable, though the people uncivill.

[The theevish Towne of Algier.] This Towne of Algier, was formerly under subjection to the Kingdome of Tremizen, but because of insupportable charges it revolted, and rendered to the King of Arradetz or Bugia: Afterwards it was under the King of Spaine, from whom Barbarossa did take it Anno 1515. being now under the Turke, and is situate upon the pendicles of a flat devalling height, and standeth triangular. The Marine side whereof is strongly fortified, with earth-back'd walles, Bulwarkes, and Artillery, but the semi-squared land-walles, are of small importance, and easily to be surprised; and three miles in circuite, contayning some thirty thousand persons.

There is a Turkish Bashaw here, and a strong Garrison of sixe thousand Janizaries, with two hundred Cursary ships or Pyrats who ever preying upon Christian Commercers, by their continuall spoyles and prises, have made the divelish Towne wonderfull rich; and become the inveterate enemy of Christendome; being now a Kingdome of it selfe, and in length from East to West betweene the Townes Terracot and Guargola, some sixe score miles. It hath a long reaching mould in the Sea, that maketh a safe harbor for their ships agaynst Northerly windes, which on that Coast are deadly dangerous. At this time, the greatest part of the Towne were fled to the mountaynes to shun the parching heate that beateth violently on the Plaines, and Sea-shore; so doe all the maritine Townes of Barbary the like every Sommer, for the moneths July, August, and September: which then being left halfe naked of defence, it were the onely time for Christianes to invade or surprise their Townes.

I found here abundance of slaves, most of them Spaniards, whom they dayly constraine within Towne to beare all manner of burdens here and there, and without Towne to drudge in the fields, amongst their Vines and Cornes, and other toyling labours, abusing them still with buffets and bastinadoes as their perverstnesse listeth: Neither durst I leave my lodging, unlesse I had three or foure Christian slaves to guide me, and guard me too from scelerate vulgars: who beare no respect to any stranger nor free Franck. [A naturall sublime policy.] Here I remarked a wonderfull policy in the Turkish state, concerning these thiftuous and rapinous Townes of Barbary; who as they are ordained ever to plague and prey upon the Spaniard, yet under that colour they licentiat them to make havock and seaze upon all other Christiane ships, goods, and persons as they please, the French Nation excepted: And so they doe notwithstanding of our several Ambassadours lying at Constantinople, who rather stay there as Mungrells than absolute Ambassadours: for why should Christian Princes meditate for peace and commerce with the Turke, when theirs, with his subjects the Barbarian Moores have no safety; they being obedient to his lawes, and over-ruled by Bassawes, as well as these are of Asia and Easterne Europe: from which I gather, as from all other like examples, that there is a more sublime over-mastering policy, subtility, and provident foresight, in meere naturall men as Turkes be, then in our best Grandeurs, for all their Sciences, & schoole studies can either perceive or perform farre less prosecute. To which avowed dangers if any small ship, ruled by rash fellowes, should adventure within the straites, as too many English doe, beeing unable and unprovided for defence; and so are taken & Captivated, and afterward redeemed by Contributions over the Land: I justly affirme it, they deserve rather to be punished, and remayne there in punishment, then any reliefe or redemption to be wrought for them, who will nakedly hazard themselves in knowne perrils, without Ordonance, munition, and a burdenable ship.

But reverting to my purpose, the marine Provinces which lye betweene Ægypt and Sewty, over agaynst [The Barbarian Provinces twixt Egypt and Gibelterre.] Gibelterre being the Straits, are these; Cyrene, Barca Marmorica, Ezzeba, the Trypolian Jurisdiction, the Kingdomes of Tunneis, Abirouh, Arradetz, Tremizen, Algier, and a part of Fez; extending to two thousand and three hundred Maritine miles: All which, by ignorant Sea-men, and ruvide Moores is tearmed Barbary, who can not distinguish parts nor provinces, but even as the Orientall Turkes doe, that denominate all Asia minor, under the name Carmania, and know no further of their ancient nor particular titles.

Now as concerning their Customes, it is the fashion of all these Barbarian Moores, in marrying of their wives, that after the Bridegroome and the Bride are inrolled by their Totsecks or Priests in the Mosque before the Parents of each party, and the Bride presently brought home to the house of her Husband, accompanied with al their Friends, Musicke, and Revelling: He immediatly withdraweth her to a private Chamber, having onely one old woman standing by them in a corner of the Roome: where hee lying with the Bride, and shee being found a Mayde, by a certayne cloath layd under her privy place, which being by the old Hagge drawne out, and found sprinkled with spots of blood shee presenteth it first to him, as a token of virginity; and then forthwith runneth through the house, among all the friends of the new married couple, crying with a loud voyce, and carrying the bloody napkin in her hand, the Virgine-bride is broken up; whereat they all rejoyce, giving rewards and good cheare to the Cryer: [The tryall of Moorish Brides.] But if the bride be not found a Mayd, then he returneth her backe unto her Parents which they accompt as an immortall shame, and the nuptiall feast, and all the assistants thereunto, are suddenly dismissed: But if a Virgine, the banquet continueth all the first day, with great cheare, dancings, revellings, with Musicall Instruments of divers sorts.

The second night is onely the feast of women for both parties; and the third banquet is made on the seventh day after the nuptiall, the provision of which the father of the Bride sendeth to the house of his new sonne in law: where after this banquet, and the seventh day, in the next morning the Bridegroome goeth then abroad from his house (which hee doth not till the aforesayd time) unto the market place, where he buyeth a number of fish to carry with him to his dwelling, as a signe of good lucke, it being an auncient custome through the most part of all the Notherne Affrick.

The men and women at such meetings dance a part, each of them having their own Musicke and orders of merriment.

They have also a custome that when Infants beginne to breed teeth, their Parents will make a solemne feast to all the Children of the Towne, with divers ceremonies; which custome they reserve yet, in divers parts of Italy.

The women through all Barbary, weare abundance of Bracelets on their armes, and Rings in their eares, but not through the nose and lips as the Ægyptians doe; and turne also the nayles of their hands and feete to red, accounting it a base thing to see a white naile: The men here for the most part, are the best Archers, and Horse-men that are in Affrick, and take great pleasure in breeding of their Barbes: So are they both active and couragious, and very desperate in all their attempts, being all of the Mahometanicall Religion, though more ignorant thereof than the Turkes: some whereof are subject to the Turke, some to the Emperour of Morocco, and some to their owne barbarous Princes.

And now it was my fortune here in Algier, after 12. [Monsieur Chatteline a French Lapidator.] dayes abode, to meete with a French Lapidator, Monsieur Chatteline borne in Aise du Provance, who intending to visit Fez, joyned company with me, and we with certaine Merchants of Algier that were going hither: being in all 30. passengers, with two Jannizaries and a Dragoman.

Whence advancing our way, some on Mules, and some on foote, with Asses carrying our baggage and provision; we left the marine Townes of Saly and Tituana, far to the West on our right hand, and facing the in-land wee marched for three dayes through a fruitfull and populous soyle: And although the peoples barbarous and disdainefull countenances were awfull, yet we two went still free of tributs, as not being a thing with them accustomary, to execute exaction on Francks as the Turkes and Moores do in Asia, neither understood they what wee were, being cled with company, and after their fashion: save onely that nature had set a fairer stamp on my face, than theirs, which oft I wished had beene as blacke as their uglines. In this misculat journeying of paine & pleasure we found every where strong Wines, abundance of excellent bread, and the best, and greatest Hens bred on the earth, with plenty of Figges, Fruits, Olives, and delicious oyle, yea, and innumerable Villages, the houses whereof are all builded with mudde, and platformed on their tops; and so are they in Asia, and all Affrick over.

Upon the fourth day having past the Plaines, we entered in a hilly Countrey, yet pastorable; where I beheld here and there clouds of Tents, filled with maritine people, that were fled hither from the Sea coast for the fresh and cooling ayre.

And upon these pleasant and umbragious heights, I saw the fields overcled with flocks of Sheepe and Goats: which Sheepe are wondrous great, having from their rumpes and hips, broad and thicke tayles growing, and hanging to the ground, some whereof when sold, will weigh 16. 18. or 20. pounds weight, and upwards. Here among the mountaines, our company knowing well the Countrey, tooke a great advantage of the way, and on the seventh day in the morning, [Mine arrival at Fez.] wee arrived at the great Towne of Fez: where the French man and I were conducted by some of our company to a great Moorish Inne or Taverne: & there received, we were as kindly & respectively used, as ever I was in any part of the Turks Dominions, being now out of them, & in the Empire of Morocco.

This City of Fez is situate upon the bodies and twice double devalling faces of two hills, like to Grenada in Andelosia in Spaine; the intervale, or low valley betweene both (through which the torride River of Marraheba runneth Southward) being the Center and chiefest place, is the most beautifull and populous part of the City; the situation of which, and of the whole, is just set under the Tropick of Cancer.

Over which River, and in this bottome, there are three score and seaven Bridges of stone and Timber, each of them being a passage for open streetes on both sides. The intervayle consisteth of two miles in length, and halfe a mile broad; wherein, besides five Chereaffs or Market places, there are great Palaces, magnificke Mosquees, [Great Colledges and Hospitalls.] Colledges, Hospitals, and a hundred Palatiat Tavernes, the worst whereof, may lodge a Monarchicke trayne: Most part of all which buildings, are three and foure stories high, adorned with large and open Windowes, long Galleries, spacious Chambers, and flat tectures or square platformes.

The streetes being covered above, twixt these plaine-set Fabrickes, have large Lights cut through the tectur'd tops every where; in whose lower shoppes or Roomes are infinite Merchandize, and Ware of all sorts to bee sold.

The people of both kindes are cloathed in long breeches and bare Ancles, with red or yellow shooes shod with Iron on the Heeles, and on the Toes with white Horne; and weare on their bodies long Robes of Linning or Dimmety, and silken Wast-coates of diverse Colours: The behaviour of the Vulgars being far more civill toward Strangers then at Constantinople; or else where in all Turkey.

The Women here go unmasked abroad, wearing on their heads, broad, and round Capes, made of Straw or small Reedes, to shade their faces from the Sunne; and damnable Libidinous, beeing prepared both wayes to satisfie the lust of their Luxurious Villaines; neyther are they so strictly kept as the Turkish Women, marching where they please.

There are some twelve thousand allowed Brothell-houses in this Towne, the Courtezans being neatly kept, and weekely well looked to by Physitians; but worst of all, in the Summer time, they openly Lycentiat three thousand common Stewes of Sodomiticall boyes: Nay I have seene at mid-day, in the very Market places, the Moores buggering these filthy Carrions, and without shame or punishment go freely away.

There are severall Seates of Justice heere (though none to vindicate beastlinesse) occupied by Cadeis and Sanzackes, which twice a Weeke heare all differences and complaints: their chiefe Seriff, or Vicegerent, being sent from Morocco, is returned hither agayne every third yeare.

[The beauty and greatnes of Fez.] The two Hills on both sides the planur'd Citty, East, and West, are over-cled with streetes and Houses of two stories high, beeing beautified also with delicate Gardens, and on their extreame devalling parts, with numbers of Mosquees and Watch-towers: On which heights, and round about the Towne, there stand some three hundred Wind-mils; most part whereof pertayne to the Mosques, and the two magnifick Colledges erected for education of Children, in the Mahometanicall Law.

One of which Accademies, cost the King Habahennor in building of it, foure hundred and three score thousand Duckets. Jacob sonne to Abdulach the first King of the Families of Meennons, divided Fez in three parts, and with three severall Walles, though now invironed with onely one, and that broken downe in sundry parts.

The chiefest Mosque in it, is called Mammo-Currarad, signifying the glory of Mahomet, being an Italian mile in Compasse, and beautified with seventeene high ground Steeples, besides Turrets and Towers: having thirty foure entring Doores; beeing supported within, and by the [The modell of the great City of Fez.] length, with forty eight pillars, and some twenty three Ranges of pillars in breadth, besides many Iles, Quires, and circulary Rotundoes: Every Pillar having a Lampe of Oyle burning thereat; where there, and through the whole Mosque, there are every night nine hundred Lamps lighted; and to maintaine them, and a hundred Totsecks and preaching Talsumans, the rent of it extendeth to two hundred Duccats a day: Neverthelesse there are in the City besides it, more then foure hundred and threescore [The magnifick Mosque of Fez.] Mosquees; fifty whereof are well benefited and superbiously decored within and without, with glorious and extraordinary workmanship, whose rooffes within are all Mosaick worke, and curiously indented with Gold, and the walles and pillars being of grey Marble, interlarded with white Alabaster, and so is the chiefe Mosque too in which Monsieur Chatteline and I had three sundry recourses accompanied with our Moorish hoste, who from their Priests had procured that licence for us. This City aboundeth in all manner of provision fit for man or beast, & is the goodliest place of all North Affrick, contayning a hundred and twenty thousand fire-houses, and in them a million of soules: Truely this is a world for a City, and may rather second Grand Caire, than subjoyne it selfe to Constantinople, being farre superior in greatnesse with Aleppo: For these are the foure greatest Cities, that ever I saw in the world, either at home or abroad.

The Cittizens here are very modest and zealous at their divine services, but great dauncers and revellers on their solemne festivall dayes, wherein they have Bull-beating, Maskerats, singing of rimes, and processions of Priests. The Moores in times past of Fez and Morocco, had divers excellent personages, well learned, and very civill; for amongst the Kings Mahometan one can not praise too much the Kings Almansor, Maunon, and Hucceph, being most excellent men in their superstition.

In whose times flourished the most famous medicines, and Philosophers that were among the Pagans, as A Vicenne, Rasis, Albumazar, Averroes, &c. with other great numbers maintained by the Kings of Morocco, that then were Masters of all Barbary and Spaine: As in Spaine may be seene yet, (though now fallen in decay) a great number of their Colledges, shewing they were great lovers of their Religion and Doctrine, and are so to this day, save onely in their drinking of Wine forbidden by their Alcoran. They were great devisers too of gallant sportings, exercises, turnaments, and Bull-beating, which Spayne retaineth to this time; yea, and the Romanes did learne, and follow many of them.