Part 27
My wish is come, I see each bulging sayle For pride begins to swell, betweene two sheetes; She ticklish grows, as wanton of her tayle, And layes her side, close where the weather beats; Both prone and puppe, do answere so the Helme, The Steirsman sings, no griefe his joy can whelm.
By night our watch we set, by day our sight, And thirle our Sailes, if Pirats but appeare; We rest resolv'd, it's force, makes Cowards fight, Though none more dare, then they that have most feare, It's courage makes us rash, and wisdome cold, Yet wise men, stout, and stung, grow Lyon bold.
Now we looke out for Land, now we see Malt! That little famous Ile, though sterrile soile; Where we'le some Bay, or Creeke seeke to assault Whence Ancorage, and safety ships recoile: Now, now, let Anchor fall we're in the Road Savely arriv'd, by providence of God.
This done, as time avouc'hd, I kindly bad My Consorts all adew, then came a shoare, Where I such plenty of great favours had, That scarse the like, I ever found before. These white cross'd Knights, with their eight pointed crosses, Imbrac'd my sight, with it, my toiles, and tosses: So ends my Verse, and so I'le straight disclose The Ile, the Folkes, their Manners, in plaine Prose.
The greatest cause of our Arrivall here, was in regard of our fresh Water that was spent; and therefore constrayned to beare in to this Ile: Which was my sole desire, wishing rather to Land heere, to see the Order of our Knights of Christendome, then to arrive at Ragusa in the Adriaticke Gulfe, where I had beene before. Our [A joyfull arrival in Malta.] Anchors being grounded, and our Boate ready to court the shoare, I bad farwell to all the Company, and in a singular respect to my generous Captayne, who would have nothing for my victuales and transportation from Ægypt; except a few relicts of Jerusalem: The boat being launched, and we landed in the haven, I accoasted a vulgar Taverne, and there lodged.
This City is divided in two, the old and new Malta, from which the Ile taketh the name; it is a large and populous place, and strongly fortified with invincible walles, and two impregnable Castles St. Hermes, and St. Angelo; St. Michael being distant from both: Here the great Master or Prince for that yeare being a Spaniard made much of me for Jerusalems sake; so did also a number of these gallant Knights, to whom I was greatly obliged. And withall to my great contentment, I rancountred here with a countrey Gentleman of mine, being a souldier there, named William Douglas, who afterward for his long and good service at sea was solemnely Knighted, and made one of their order. Whose fidele and manly services have beene since as plausibly regarded by the Maltezes, as Monsieur Creichton his worth, in learning and excellent memory, rests admired in Italy, but especially by the noble Gonzagaes, and dependant friends of the house of Mantua; for whose losse, and accidentall death, they still heavily bemone: acknowledging that the race of that Princely stock, by Gods judgements was cut off, because of his untimely death.
[The Ile of Malta.] Malta was called Melita, mentioned Acts 28. 1. 2. where the Viper leaped on Paules hand; I saw also the Creeke wherein he was shipwracked: This Iland may properly be termed the Fort of Christendome, yet a barren place, and of no great bounds, for their Cornes, and Wines come daily by Barkes from Sycilia: but it yeeldeth good store of Pomegranates, Cittrons, Cottons, Orenges, Lemmons, Figges, Mellons, and other excellent fruits. The Knights of Malta had their beginning at Acre in Palestina; from thence to the Rhodes, & now exposed to this rocky Ile. They are pertinacious foes to Infidels, for such is the oath of their order, continually making war and incursions against them, to their power: being strengthned also with many souldiers, and their Captaines are surnamed Knights of Malta, and so through a great part of Christendome; it is a most honourable Order: They are not permitted to marry, the most part of whom being younger brothers: the reason was, because not being intangled to wife and children, they might be the more resolute to adventure their lives in the Christian service; but therein they are mightily decayed, and their valour no way answerable to that it hath been when their auncestors lived in the Rhodes and holy Land; having had these eighteene yeares past little or no good fortune at all.
This Ile was given in possession to these Knights of St. John, by the Emperour Charles the fifth, and King of Spaine; being newly expelled from the Rhodes by Solyman the magnificent, Anno 1522. And afterward the Turke not contented therewith, and mindfull all-utterly to extermine their power, came with a huge Armado, and assayled Malta, Anno 1565. when Valetta was great [An invincible victory.] maister, who so couragiously withstood their fury, that the Turkes were defeated, and forced to returne.
This Iland is ten leagues in length, and three broad: the earth whereof being three foote deepe, is the cause, why it is not so fertile, as the clymat might afford: It containeth besides the City, forty seven Villages and nine Cassales; the peasants or naturall Inhabitants whereof, are of the Affrican complexion, tanny, and Sun-burnt; and their language semblable to the Barbarian speech, without any great difference, both tongues being a corrupt Arabick: And not unlike therein to the Italians from the Latine, or the vulgar Greeke from the auncient; yet the moderne Greeke is nearer the auncient, then the Italian is the Latine: These rurall Maltezes are extreamely bent, in all their actions, either to good or evill wanting fortitude of minde, and civill discretion, they can not temper the violent humours of their passions, but as the headstrong-tide, so their dispositions runne, in the superfluous excesse of affections.
They follow the Romane Church, though ignorant of the way, and their woemen be lovely faire, going head-covered with blacke vayles, and much inclined to [The nature of the Maltezes.] licentiousnesse; their beauties being burrowed from helpe more then nature: for now it is a common practice amongst decayed beauties, banquerouted by time or accidents, to hide it from others eyes with Art, and from their owne with false glasses. But (alasse) the graces and beauties of the soule ought more to be cared for, and to have the first place and honour, above these counterfeit or outward showes of the body; and the beauty and lovely proportion of the body, should be preferred before the effeminate deckings, that the body doth rather carry then enjoy: since it often hapneth; that a foule and deformed carkasse hath a faire and rich wardrope. In this Towne of Malta, there are many Turkish and Moorish slaves, very rudely treat, yet not answerable to that cruelty the slavish Christianes indure upon their Gallies in Barbary or Turky: The discription of Malta, I postpone to the succeeding relations of my second Travells; and after twelve daies staying here, I imbarked in a Frigat with other passengers, and arrived at Cicly in the South-east corner of Sicilia, being three score miles distant.
From thence coasting the shoare fifty miles to Siracusa, I rancounterd by the way, in a clifty Creeke close by the sea side, a Moorish Brigantine, with twelve oares on each side, charged with Moores, who had secretly stayed there a night and a day stealing the people away labouring on the fields: At which sudden sight, and being hard by them, I stopped my pace. Whereupon, about twenty Moores broke out upon me, with shables & slings: But my life and liberty being deare to me, my long traced feete became more nimble in twelve score paces, than they could follow in eighteene; for I behoved to fly backe the same way I came: where, when freed, I hastned to the next Watch-tower, marine set, and there told the Centinell, how a [A Moorish Brigantine.] Moorish Brigantine was lying within two miles at an obscure clift: and how hardly I escaped their hands: whereupon he making a fire on the top of the Tower, and from him all the Watch-towers along, gave presently warning to the contrey; so that in a moment, them of the Villages came downe on horse and foote, and well armed, and demanding me seriously of the trueth, I brought them with all possible celerity to the very place: where forthwith the Horse-men broke upon them, wounding divers, before they were all taken, for some fled to the Rocks, and some were in the coverd fields hunting their prey: At last they were all seazed upon, and fast tyed two, and two in iron chaines, and sixe Sicilians relieved whom they had stolne and thralled: Whence they were carried to Syracusa, I went also along with them, where, by the way the people blessed me, and thanked God for mine escape, and me for discovering them: from Syracusa (being condemned to the galleyes) upon the third day they were sent to Palermo, being 36. in number.
They gone, and I reposing here, the governour of that place, for this piece of service, and my travels sake did feast me three dayes, and at my departure would have rewarded me with gold, so also the friends of them that were relieved, which if I tooke or not judge you, that best can judge on discretion. This Citty is situate on a Promontore, that butteth in the Sea, having but one entery, and was once the Capitall seat of the Kingdom, though now by old tyranies, and late alterations of time, it is onely become a private place: Yet girded about with the most fragrant fields, for dainty fruites, and delicate Muscatello that all Europe can produce.
From this place, over-tracing other fifty miles to Catagna, situate at Ætnaes foote; I measured the third fifty miles to Messina. Where now I cease to discourse any further of this Iland, till my returne for Affricke, being my second Voyage: For true it is, double experience, deeper Knowledge; where then punctually in my following order, the Reader I hope shall finde his desired satisfaction.
[An happy arrivall.] From Messina, I imbarked in a Neapolitan Boat loaden with Passingers; whence shoaring along for foure hundred miles, the higher and lower Calabrian Coast, with a part of the Lavorean lists, uppon the twelfth day, we landed at Naples. Where being disbarked, I gave God thankes upon my flexed knees, for my safe arrivall in Christendome: And meeting there with the Earle of Bothwell, and Captayne George Hepburne, I imbraced the way to Rome, being sixe score and ten miles distant: where I stole one nights lodging privately, and on the morrow earely departing thence, and crossing Tyber, I visited these Townes in Italy before I courted the Alpes, Siena, Florence, Luca, Pisa, Genoa, Bullogna, Parma, Pavia, Piacenza, Mantua, Milane, and Torine: the commendation of which Cities rest revolv'd in these following verses.
Illustrat Sænas, patriæ facundia Lingua, Splendida solertes, nutrit Florentia Cives; Libera luca tremit, ducibus vicina duobus: Flent Pisa amissum, dum contemplantur honorem: Genua habet portum, mercesque domosque superbas: Excellit studiis, facunda Bononia cunctis, Commendant Parmam, lac, caseus, atque Butirum, Italicos versus, prefert Papia Latinis; Non caret Hospitiis, per pulchra Placentia caris: Mantua gaudet aquis, ortu decorata Maronis, Est Mediolanum jucundum nobile magnum, Taurinum exornant virtus, pietasque, fidesque.
Having passed Torine, and its Princely Court, whose present Duke might have beene the mirrour of Nobility, I kept my way through Piemont or Pedemontano, the sister of Lombardy, and second Garden of Europe; and crossing the steepe and Snowy Mountayne of Mont Cola [The Ligurian Alpes.] di Tenda, the highest Hill of all the Alpes: I found on its top, that it reserveth alwayes a Gradinian mist, for a mile of way long stakes, set in the Snow, each one a Speares length from another, to guide the Passinger his dangerous way; of the which stoopes if hee fayle, hee is lost for ever.
After I had traversed this difficult passage, I had two dayes journey in climbing and thwarting the Rockey and intricated hils of Liguria, over which Hannibal had so much adoe, to conduct his Army to Italy; making a way through the Snow, with Fire, Vineger, and Wine: Whence it was sayd of him, Viam aut inveniet Anniball, aut faciet: Leaving these Mountaynes behind me, I arrived at Niece in Provance, situate on the Mediterren Sea; and passing the Townes of Antibo and Cana, to night at Furges; there were three French murderers set uppon me in a theevish Wood twelve miles long; one of which had dogged me hither from Niece: Where having extreamely given me a fearefull chase, for a long League, and not mending themselves, they gave me over. Well, in the midst of the Wood I found an Hostery, and in it, two Women, and three young Children, with whom I stayed and lodged all night.
[A happy escape from murder.] After I had sup'd and going to bed, in came these aforesayd Villaines, accompanied with my Host; where, when seene, they straight accused me for my flight, and threatning me with stroakes, consulted my Death. Then I cryed to my Host for helpe, but hee stood dumbe, for he was their Companion, and to second their intention his wife made fast the lower doore. Whereat being mooved with deadly feare, I pulled my Turkish gowne from my backe, and opening my Sacket; sayd, Now Christian Gentlemen, I know you are distressed, and so am I, come search my cloathes and Budget, and if you find what you looke for, let me dye: Alas, I am a poore stranger, newly come from Jerusalem, and the Sepulcher of Jesus Christ, and after long travailes, and loe there is my Patent: And concerning my flight, I sweare, I onely fled for the safety of my life, but not for the preservation of my money, for come see I have none: my griefe is that I have it not for you: Good gentlemen consider the dangers that I have past amongst Infidels, and let not your Christian hands rob me of my turmoyled life; having nought, wherefore you should, were a lamentable thing to do.
This spoken, and much more, they never searched me, nor touched my Wallet, but went to Counsell, where they concluded uppon my forwardnesse in opening my body and other things to them, that I had no money, and therefore confirmed my life, which for the former respect, and the Holy Graves sake was granted. Whereupon packing up my Relickes agayne, they called for Wine, and drunke diverse times to me; and after a long spent conference, there supper making ready, they dismissed me for my bed: Whether, when led by my Hostesse, I privily made the doore fast, suspecting still a suddaine death: Well they sup'd, and were joviall, and at the first Cocke, went foorth to the woode, and the high way for their owne ends.
All which time I stood Centinell, and the morning come, my Host confessed, that onely he had saved my life; forswearing himselfe of their former sight; but sayd hee certainly they are Murderers. Leaving him with dissembling thankes, I arrived at Furges: where I learned [A guard of Horsemen for a dangerous wood.] that my Host was suspected to bee a Consort with these and many moe Murderers: well afterwards I heard, hee was arraigned, hanged, and quartered, the house razed, and his wife put to death; and ever since the French King, keepeth a guard of Horse-men there to keepe that filthy and dangerous woode free from Murderers. For now may I say, like to a ship that after a long Voyage, is eyther in greatest danger, or else cast away, entring the Roade and Haven from whence shee came; even so was I cast in the most eminent perill, that I had in all my Travayles, being on the Frontiers of France, and as it were, (in regard of remoter places) entering the Towne wherein I was borne.
Having given humble thankes, and lofty prayses to the Almighty for my deliverance, I traversed Provance, and Langadocke, where neare to Montpeillier, I met with the French gentlemans Father, whom I relieved from the Gallies in Canea of Candy; who being over-joyed with my sight, kindly intreated me for eight dayes, and highly rewarded mee with Spanish Pistols, lamenting for my sake that his sonne was at Paris: whence continuing my Voyage to Barselona in Catelogna of Spaine, I gave over my purpose in going to Madrile, because of deare bedding and scarcity of Victuals: and footing the nearest way through Arragon and Navarre, I crossed at the passage of Sancto Johanne, the Pyrhenei mountaines: And falling downe by Pau, and the River Ortes, I visited Gascony and Bearne; and from them, the Cities of Burdeaux and Rochel: and arriving at Paris, whence I first beganne my Voyage; I also there ended my first, my painefull, and Pedestriall Pilgrimage. Whence shortly thereafter visiting Englands Court, I humbly presented to King James, and Queene Anne of ever blessed memories; and to his present Majesty King Charles, certayne rare Gifts and notable Relickes, brought from Jordan and Jerusalem: Where afterward within a yeare, upon some distaste, I was exposed to my second Peregrination as followeth.
THE END OF THE FIRST BOOKE, OF MY FIRST TRAVAILES.
THE EIGHT PART, &c.
Contayning the second Booke of my second Travailes.
Patriam meam transire non possum, omnium una est, extra hanc nemo projici potest. Non patria mihi interdicitur sed locus, in quamcunque terram venio, in meam venio, nulla exilium est sed altera patria est. Patria est ubicunque bene est. Si enim sapiens est Peregrinatur, si stultus exulat. Senec. de re, for.
Let not surmisers thinke, ambition led My second toyles, more flash flowne praise to wed; Nay; there was reason, and the cause is Knowne For Courtly crosses, seldome stay unshowne: Well, I am sped; through Belgia then I trace; And footing Rhyne, to Geneve kept my pace, Thence cross'd I Sinais, Po, and Lombard bounds, The hils Appenine, the Ætrurian rounds: And nighting Rome, Parthenope I past, Even to Rhegio, of Townes Calabriaes last: Whence Sicily I view'd, and Ætna Mount; And Malta too, as I before was wont: Then sight I Tunneis, where old Carthage stood, And Scipio shed streames of Numidian blood. Hence Tremizen I trac'd, the Barbars shoare To Algeir, great Fez, the Atlanticke glore; The Berdoans Country, and the Lybian sands, The Garolines parch'd bounds, the Sabunck lands; And diverse soiles, of Savage Heathnick bounds, Whose names and stiles, this Affricke story sounds. Last in the Lybian lists, I'me forc'd to stay, Whence I return'd, for Tunneis the next way; And resting there, till Æoles seaven rig'd Towres, Prest Tritons backe; (crost Neptunes Paramours) And wish'd me saile; O then with speedy flight I boord the Ship, and bad the Moores good-night.
True it is, that these who make Distinction clearely, and the certayne knowledge of things, divide all Sciences in Speculative and Practicke. And agayne, Speculative in Physicke, or Phylosophy naturall, in Mathematickes and Metaphysicke; placing Medicine under the first: Arithmeticke, Musicke, Geometry, and Astrology under the second: Uniting thirdly, Theology, to the which they give also to be adjoyned the right Canon.
As for the science Practique, it doth first imbrace the Morall that some divide in three, to wit, Ethique, that doth forme the manners of one man, Secondly in Ecoenomick, that doth dispose the actions domesticke: The third in Politicque, that comprehend the actions Civill; concerning the government of Common-wealths, which containeth under it the whole science of right civilitie. And with Practique, is also placed Dialectique, the Art of memory, the Grammar, the Rhetorique, to which also may be joyned the Art Poetique, and of Histories. But for their particular divisions I am not prolixious, as inutile to my designe in hand; divers dedicate themselves to the knowledge of these sciences, not knowing that they forget the most necessary, to wit, the science of the world.
[The necessary use and honour of Travels.] This is it above all things that preferreth men to honors, and the charges that make great houses and Reipublicks to flourish; and render the actions and words of them who possesse it, agreeable both to great and small. This science is onely acquisted by conversation, and haunting the company of the most experimented: by divers discourses, reports, by writs, or by a lively voyce, in communicating with strangers; and in the judicious consideration of the fashion of the living one with another. And above all, and principally by Travellers, and Voyagers in divers Regions, and remote places, whose experience confirmeth the true Science thereof; and can best draw the anatomy of humane condition. For which, and other respects, it holdeth true that the heart of man is insatiable being set upon whatsoever object, his predominant affection listeth; neither may reason find place in the violent rapt of such passions, for as judgement is seldome compatible with youth, but reserved to old age; so to a unconstant disposition, every accident is a constellation, by which best thoughts are diversified, & driven from the center of deepest resolution: whiles contrariwise the sound set man, though by opportunity altereth his pace, yet still keepeth his way, serveth time for advantage, not for feare; but as the Sun setteth to rise againe, so he changeth his course, to continue his purpose. Wherein touching my particular, whether discontent or curiosity drove me to this second perambulation, it is best reserved [The Authors Apology.] to my owne knowledge: As for the opinion of others, I little care either for their sweetest temper, or their sowrest censure; for they that hunt after other mens fancies, goe rather to the market to sell than to buy, and love better to paint the bare fashion and out-sides of themselves, then to rectify or repaire their owne defects and errours; wherewith I leave them. Then it is well, if it please me, it is enough; my paines are mine owne, and not others; and therefore best worthy to judge of my owne labours, being best knowne to my selfe who dearest bought them: And so to make short this preamble, or conducing complement I come to the matter it selfe.
Now as I began my first voyage from Paris, so from London must I beginne this my second peregrination: whence leaving the Court, the Countrey and Dover, I courted Caleis, and so to Graveling, Dunkirke, and fatall Ostend, whose devasted sight gave my Muse this subject.
To view the ruines of thy wasted walles, Loe! I am come, bewayling thy disgrace, Art thou this Bourge, Bellona so enstalles To be the mirrour for a Martiall face: I, sure its thou, whose bloody bathing bounds, Gave death to thousands, and to thousands wounds.
What Hostile force, besieg'd thee poore Ostend? With all Engine, that ever Warre devised: What Martiall troupes, did valiantly defend Thine earthen strengths, and Sconces unsurpris'd By cruell assaults, and desperate defence, Thine undeserved name, wonne honour thence.
Some deepe interr'd, within thy bosome lye, Some rot, some rent, some torne in peeces small: Some warlike maim'd, some lame, some halting crye: Some blowne through Clouds, some brought to deadly thral, Whose dire defects, renew'd with ghostly mones, May match the Thebane, or the Trojan groanes:
Base fisher towne, that fang'd thy nets before, And drencht into the deepe thy food to win: Art thou become a Tragicke stage, and more Whence bravest wits, brave Stories may begin To show the world, more then the world would crave, How all thine intrench'd ground, became one grave.