Part 31
Terra tribus scopulis, vastum procurrit in æquor, Trinacris a positu, nomen adepta loci.
An Ile with corners three, out-braves the Mayne From whence the name Trinacry it doth gaine.
It is now called Sicilia from the Siculi or Sicani who possessed it, and hath beene famous in all former ages:
By Diodorus Siculus, it was cognominated the Paragon of Iles: By Titus Livius, the Garden of Italy: It was also aunciently called the Grange of the Romanes, and is never a whit decayed to this day.
The length of the Iland lyeth East and West, in circuit sixe hundred, large fifty, and in length two hundred fourty Italian miles: [The fertility of Sicilia.] The soyle is incredible fruitfull, excelling in all sorts of graine, as cornes, Wheat, Wine, Sugar, Ryce, Oyle, Salt, Allom, all kinds of fruit, wholesome Hearbs, exceeding good Silke, exquisite mines of mettall, and the best Corall in the world is found here, beside Trapundy; growing under the water greene and tender, but when arising above, it becommeth red and hard: The like whereof is sayd to be found in the red-Sea, and gulfe of Persia.
The most of the Townes and Villages within land, are [Townes set on heights reserve good ayre.] builded on the highest hills and greatest heights in the Countrie; the reason is two-fold; first it serveth them for strength, and a great defence in time of cursarary invasions, of which divers bee so strait in ascending, that one man may easily resist and beat downe five hundred. The second is, because their dwellings being farre above the parching Plaines, these situations are good preservatives for their health, whereon they have a sweet and cooling ayre, which in such a hot climat, is the soveraigne salve to prevent sicknesse.
Their Villages be farre distant, some sixe, ten, fifteene, twenty miles one from another; in all which grounds there is no sequestrate house, unlesse (being a high way) it be a Fundaco or Inne. About the sides of the hills, whereon their Townes stand, grow all their Wines, and on the Plaines nothing but red Wheat, which for goodnesse is unparalelled, and the best bread and abundance of it in the world is here. Sicilia was formerly devided in [The auncient divisions of Sicilia.] three Regions, to wit, the valley of Demonia, containing Ætna, Catagna, Messina, and that angle of Cap di faro, of old Pelora: The other the valley of Neitia, containing Syracusa, Terra nova, and the angle of Cap di Cora of old, of Lilibea; and the third was the valley of Matzzara contayning Palermo, Trapundy, Malzara, and the angle of Cap di passero old Pachinum: Many thinke that Sicilia was rent from Italy by the violence of waters, at the generall Deluge, some by infinit earthquakes, and some simply conjecture the cause to have proceeded from combustious Ætna, which is meere ridiculous.
There are divers grounds and valleyes in this Ile, that abound so in Wheat, that the Inhabitants recoyle a hundred measures for one, and commonly are called the fields of a hundred measures.
[Sicilians are brave Orators.] The Sycilians for the most part are bred Orators, which made the Apulians tearme them, men of three tongues: Besides they are full of witty sentences, and pleasant in their rancounters, yet among themselves, they are full of envy (meaning their former kindnesses was unto strangers) suspicious and dangerous in conversation, being lightly given to anger and offences, and ready to take revenge of any injury comitted: But indeed I must confesse, more generously than the Italians, who murder their enemies in the night; for they appeale other to single combat, and that manfully without fraudulent practices.
They are curious, and great lovers of novelties, and full of quicknesse and rare inventions in all kind of Sciences, great intelligencers, and lovers of histories: As I found in divers of them, who knew the passages formerly of my Countrey so exquisitly that I was astonished at their relations, so agreeable with the trueth and times past. The Parliament of Sicily hath a wonderfull great authority; insomuch that the Viceroy can not have the free gift (as they call it) which is every third yeare, nor no extraordinary thing, nor the renewing of any matter concerning the Common-wealth, without the generall consent of the whole Kingdome: [The great Counsell of Sicilia.] The generall counsell whereof is composed of three branches, called by them, the armes of the Kingdome: viz. first the Prelats, and inferiour Clergy men, named the arme Ecclesiastick: secondly of Barons called the arme Military: and the third, the Commissioners of Cities and Townes, intitulated the arme Signioriall: The Crowne-rent of this Kingdome amounteth to a million and a halfe of Duccats yearely: which being disbursed ever for intertaining of Captaines, Garrisons and of Gallies, and cursary ships, the Badgelloes and servants for the fields, the maintaining of Towers, and watches about the coasts, the reparations of Colledges, high-wayes, Lords pensions, and other defrayings, there rests little, or nothing at all to the King.
I remember in my twice being in this Kingdome, (especially the second time, wherein I compassed the whole Iland, and thrice traversed the middle parts thereof from Sea to Sea) I never saw any of that selfe Nation, to begge bread, or seeke almes; so great is the beatitude of their plenty. And I dare avow it (experience taught mee) that the porest creature in Sicily eateth as good bread, as the best Prince in Christendome doth. The people are very humane, ingenious, eloquent and pleasant, their language in many words is nearer the Latine, then the Italian, which they promiscuously pronounce: somewhat talkative they are, and effeminate, but generally wonderfull kind to strangers. In the moneths of July and August, all the Marine Townes every yeare, are strictly and strongly guarded with them of the inland Villages and Bourges, both on foot and horse-backe: who are compelled to lie there at their owne charges, so long as this season lasteth; in which they feare the incursions of the Turkes; but the rest of the yeare, these Sea-coast Townes are left to the vigilant custody of the Indwellers.
This Countrey was ever sore oppressed with Rebells and Bandits, [The Duke of Sona Viceroy of Sicilia.] untill such time that the military Duke of Sona, came to rule there as Viceroy, Anno 1611. where in the first yeare he brought in five hundred; some whereof were hanged, some pardoned, and some committed to the Gallies: So that within two yeares of his foure yeares government, there was not a Bandit left at randon in all Sicilia; the like before was never seene in this Region, nor one in whom Astreas worth was more honoured, in fortitude of mind, and execution of true Justice than this Duke, before whose face, the silly ones did shine, and the proud stiffe-necked oppressours did tremble.
And in a word, he was no suppressour of the subjects (as many now be) to satisfie either licentious humors, or to inrich light-headed flatterers, but serving Justice, he made Justice serve him: for the equitie of Justice of itselfe, can offend none, neither of any will it be offended; unlesse the corrupt tongue and hand of the mercenary Judge, suffer sound judgement to perish for temporary respects; which this noble Governour could never doe, neither suffer any inferiour Magistrate to doe the like under him: As it well appeared by his just proceedings against the Jesuites of Palermo, and his authority upon them imposed in spight of their ambition. The circumstances whereof were very plausible, if time did not slaughter my goodwill; and yet my patience could performe my paines with pleasure.
And likewise against a Seminary Gallant, a Parochial [An equitable Justice for injustice sake.] Priest of that same City, who had killed a Knights servant in a Brothell-house, the brother of a Shoomaker, which fellow, the Viceroy caused to Pistoll the Priest in spight of the Cardinall, and thereupon absolved him for the dead.
The Cardinall having onely for the Priests fact, discharged him to say Masse for a yeare without satisfaction for the mans life: so the Duke inhibited the Shoomaker to make shooes for a yeare, and neverthelesse allowed him two shillings a day to mainetayne him for that time.
Many singular observations have I of his government, the which to recite would prove prolixious, though worthy of note to the intellective man; hee was afterward Viceroy of Naples, and now lately deceased in Spaine. It is dangerous to travell by the Marine of the Sea-coast Creekes in the West parts, especially in the mornings, least he finde a Moorish Frigot lodged all night, under colour of a Fisher-boat, to give him a slavish breakfast: for so they steale labouring people off the fields, carrying them away captives to Barbary; notwithstanding of the strong Watch towers, which are every one in sight of another round about the whole Iland.
Their arrivalls are usually in the night, and if in day time, they are soone discovered; the Towers giving notice to the Villages, the Sea coast is quickly clad with numbers of men on foot and horse-backe: And oftentimes they advantagiously seaze on the Moores lying in obscure clifts and bayes. All the Christian Iles in the Mediteeranean Sea, and the Coast of Italy and Spaine, inclining to Barbary, are thus chargeably guarded with watch Towres.
The chiefe remarkeable thing in this Ile from all Antiquity is the burning Hill of Ætna, called now Monte Bello, or Gibello, signifying a faire Mountayne, so it is, being of height toward Catagna from the Sea side, fifteene Sicilian miles, and in Circuite sixty. The North side toward Rindatza at the Roote beeing unpassable steepe; yet gathering on all parts so narrow to the top, as if it had beene industriously squared, having a large prospect in the Sea; about the lower parts whereof, grow exceeding good Wines, Cornes, and Olives.
[My second view of Ætna.] And now in my second Travailes, and returne from Affricke, I not being satisfied with the former sight, the kinde Bishop of Rindatza courteously sent a Guide with me on his owne charges, to view the Mountayne more strictly. Ascending on the East and passable part, with tedious toyle, and curious climbing, wee approached neare to the second fire being twelve miles high; which is the greatest of the three now burning in Ætna: whose vast mouth, or gulfe is twice twelve-score long and wide, lying in a straight valley betweene a perpendicular height and the mayne Mountayne; whose terrible flames, and cracking smoake is monstrous fearefull to behold.
Having viewed and reviewed this, as neare as my Guide durst adventure (the ground meane while whereon wee stood warming our feete, and is dangerous for holes, without a perfect Guide) wee ascended three miles higher to the maine top or Cima, from which the other two fires had their beginning. Where when come, wee found it no way answerable to the greatnesse of the middle fire; the other two drawing from it the substance, wherewith it hath beene aunciently furnished; yet betweene them two upper fires, I found aboundance of Snow (beeing in July) lying on the septentrion sides of the Hill. It was heere in this upmost Fornace, that Empedocles the Phylosopher cast himselfe in, to bee reputed for a god.
----Deus immortalis haberi Dum cupit Empedocles, ardentem fervidus Ætnam Insiluit----
To be a god, this curious Wretch desires And casts himselfe, in the fierce Ætnean fires.
As we discended on the North-east side, we came to the third and lowest fire, which is within a short mile of the Mountaynes foote, over against Rindatza; and if it were not for a sulphureat River, which divideth the Towne and the Hill, it would bee in danger to be burned. [The lowest and third fire of Ætna.] This last and least fire, runne downe in a combustible flood, from the middle above, Anno 1614. June 25. Where the Sulphure streames, before it congealed, falling in a bituminous soyle, where Wine and Olives grew there seased, and daily augmenteth more and more; having quite spoiled the Lands of two Barons in Rindatza: But the King of Spaine, in recompence of their miserable mishapes, did gratifie them with some of his Crowne lands for their maintenance.
I speake it credibly, I have found the Relickes of these Sulphure streames, which have burst forth from the upmost tops of Ætna Westward, above twenty miles in the playne. The reason of such ardent disgorgements, is thus; that when the abundance of Sulphure, being put on edge with excessive Raine, and the bituminous substance still increasing; which by the chaps, slits, and hollow chinkes of the ground (rent partly by the Sunne, and by the forcing flames) is blowne by the Wind, as by a payre of Bellowes; the vault or vast bosome, of which ugly Cell not being able to contayne such a compositure of combustible matter, it impetuously vomiteth out, in [The combustious devalling of Ætnaes fire.] an outragious Torrent; which precipitately devalleth, so long as the heate remayneth: and growing cold, it congealeth in huge and blacke stones, resembling Minerall mettall, and full of small holes, like to the composed Cinders of a Smithes Forge, wherewith the Houses of nine Townes Circumjacent thereunto, are builded.
This is that place, which the Poets did report to bee the shop of Vulcan, where Cyclops did frame the thunder-bolts for Jupiter: Whereof Virgill doeth make his Tract, called Ætna. Under this hill the Poets faine the Gyant Enceladus to be buried, whose hote breath fireth the Mountayne, lying on his face; and to conclude of Ætna, the grosse Papists hold it to be their Purgatory.
[Palermo.] The chiefe Cities therein are Palermo, the Seate of the Viceroy, situate in the North-west part over agaynst Sardinia: It is a spacious City, and well Watered with delicate Fountaynes, having goodly buildings, and large streetes, whereof Strado reale is principall, beeing a mile long. In which I have seene in an evening march along for Recreation above 60. Coaches; a paire of Mulets, being tyed to every Coach: The Gallies of Sicilia, which are ten, lye here.
The second is Messina, toward the East, over against Regio, in Calabria, being impregnable, and graced with a famous haven: having three invincible Castles, the chiefe whereof, is Saint Salvator by the Sea side; there be divers other Bulwarkes of the Towne wals, that serve for offensive and defensive Forts, which is the cause (in derision of the Turkes) they never shut their Gates.
[The famous City of Syracusa.] The third is Syracusa, standing on the Southeast Coast fifty miles beyond Ætna, and halfe way twixt Messina and Malta, a renowned Citty, and sometimes the Metropolitane Seate: It is famous for the Arathusean springs, and Archimedes that most ingenious Mathematician: He was the first Author of the Spheere, of which instruments he made one of that bignesse, and Arte, that one standing within, might easily perceive, the severall motions, of every Cælestiall Orbe: And when the Romanes besiedged Siracusa, he made such burning glasses, that set on fire all their Shippes lying in the Road: At last he was slayne by a common Souldier in his studdy, at the sacke of the Towne, to the great griefe of Marcellus the Roman Generall; when he was making plots, and drawing figures on the ground, how to prevent the assaults of the Romanes.
[Trapundy.] The fourth is Trapundy in the West, over agaynst Biserta in Barbary, which yeeldeth surpassing fine Salt, that is transported to Italy, Venice, Dalmatia, and Greece; made onely in some certayne Artificiall Salt pooles, by the vigorous beating of the scorching Sunne, which monthly they empty and fill. The Marine here excelleth in Ruby Corall, which setteth the halfe of the Towne at work, and when refined, is dispersed over al Christendom.
This City is in great request amongst the Papists because of the miraculous Lady heere, reputed the Ilands Protector, and sole Governour of these narrow Seas, for Shippes, Gallies, and Slaves: which indeede if an image cut out in white Marble were so powerfull, it might be credible; but besides this Idolatrous title, they superstitiously thereunto annexe a rable of absurd lies.
The fift is Catagna, placed at the Marine foot of Ætna, that was so vexed by Dionisius the Tyrant. The sixt is Matzara South-west, over against the Barbarian Promontore of Lystra, the rest be Rindatza, Terra nova, Emma, whence Pluto is sayd to have stolne Proserpina, Malzara, Francavilla, Bronzo, Terramigna, and Argenti once Agrigentum, where the Tyrant Phalaris lived, who tortured Perillus in the Brazen Bull, which he made for the destruction of others.
[The Sicilian Tyrants.] The tyrannies which were used in Sicilia were in times past so famous, that they grew unto this Proverbe, Invidia Siculi non invenire tyranni, tormentum majus. The elder and younger Dionisius, were such odious tyrants, and the third Dionisius worst of all, that when the people powred out continuall execrations on the last, wishing his death; onely one old woman prayed for his life: This reason she gave, since from the grandfather, his father, and he, each succeeding worser and worser, and least (said she) he dying, the divell should come in his place, (for a worser never lived) I wish him to continue still.
This Kingdome after it was rent from the Romanes, remained in subjection under the French till the yeare, 1281. in which Peter of Arragon, contrived his purpose so close, that at the sound of a Bell, to the evening vespers, all the French men in Sicilia were cruelly massacred; since which time it hath ever belonged to the house of Arragon, and now of Spaine, which exploit masketh under the name of Vesperi Siculi. For nobility this Iland may compare with Naples, their styles (like unto Italy) are great, but their revenewes wondrous small.
The Sicilians have a Proverb, as having experience of both, [A true comparison betweene the French and the Spaniards.] that the French are wiser than they seeme, and the Spaniards seeme wiser then they are: And even as the Spaniard is extremely proud in the lowest ebbe of Fortune: So is the French man exceeding impatient, cowardly desperate, and quite discouraged in the pinch of sterne calamity. The Spaniard and the French man have an absolute opposition, and conditionall disagreement in all fashions; and in their riding both different, and defective: For the Spaniard rideth like a Monkey mounted on a Camell, with his knees and heeles alike aside, sitting on the sadle, like to a halfe ballast ship, tottering on top-tempestuous waves: And the French man, hangeth in the stirrop, at the full reach of his great toe, with such a long-legged ostentation, pricking his horse with neck-stropiat spurres, and beating the wind with his long waving limbes, even as the Turkes usually do, when they are tossed at their Byrham, hanging betweene two high trees, reciprocally waving in the ayre, from the force of two long bending ropes.
[The Sicilian customes.] The women ride here stridling in the sadle, and if double, the man sitteth behind the woman: The women also after the death of their friends keepe a ceremonious mourning twice a day, for a moneths space, with such yelping, howling, shouting, and clapping of hands, as if all Sicilia were surprised by the Moores: Yet neither shedding teares, nor sorrowfull in heart, for they will both hollow and laugh at one time: The same custome for the dead, the Turkes observe, and all the Orientall people of Asia.
This Iland finally is famous, for the worthy Schollers shee once produced: Archimedes the great Mathematician; Empidocles, the first inventer of Rhetoricke; Euclide the textuary Geomettrician; Diodorus Siculus that renowned Historian, and Æshilus the first Tragedian of fame, who being walking in the fields, and bald through age, by chance, an Eagle taking his bald pate for a white rocke, let a shell-fish fall on it, of that bignesse, that it beat out his braines.
But to proceed in my itinerary relation, having twice imbarked at Messina for Italy, from Asia, and Affricke, I have choosed the last time (double experience, deeper knowledge) for the discourse of my departure thence: After a generall surveigh of this Iland and Monte Bello [Mine arrivall at Messina.] arriving at Messina, Anno 1616. August 20. I encountered with a Worshipfull English Gentleman Mr. Stydolffe Esquier of his Majesties body, accompanied with my Countrey man Mr. Wood now servant to James Earle of Carelill, who instantly were both come from Malta, the generous affabilitie of which former Gentleman to mee in no small measure was extended; meeting also afterward at Naples, as in the owne place shall be succinctly touched.
Here I found some 60. Christian Gallies, assembled to the Faire of Messina, which holdeth every yeare the 17. of August: Wherein all sorts of Merchandize are to be sold, especially raw Silke in abundance: 30 of which Gallies went to scoure the coasts of Greece. Messina is foure miles distant from Rhegio in Calabria, and two miles from the opposit Maine. This Rhegium was that Towne where Saint Paul arrived after his ship-wracke at Malta in his voyage to Rome: It was miserably sacked by the Turkish Gallies of Constantinople, Anno, 1609. but now by the Spaniards it is repaired with stronger walles, and new fortifications, sufficiently able to gaine-stand any such like accidentall invasions.
In this time of mine abode here, there happily arrived from Italy my singular good friend Mr. Mathew Dowglas his Majesties Chirurgion extraordinary, being bound also for the Levant in the same voyage of the Christian incursions against the Infidels, whose presence to me after so long a sight of Hethnike strangers was exceeding comfortable, and did there propine him with this Sonnet (which I made on Ætna) as the peculiar badge of my innated love.
High stands thy top, but higher lookes mine eye, High soares thy smoake, but higher my desire, High are thy rounds, steepe, circled, as I see, But higher farre this breast, whilst I aspire: High mounts the fury of thy burning fire, But higher far mine aimes, transcend above: High bends thy force, through midst of Vulcans ire, But higher flies my spirit, with wings of love, High presse thy flames, the Christall aire to move, But higher moves the scope of my engine, High lieth the snow, on thy proud tops I prove, But higher up ascends, my brave designe. Thy height cannot surpasse this cloudy frame But my poore soule, the highest Heavens doth claime, Meane while with paine, I climb to view thy tops, Thy height makes fall from me ten thousand drops.
Here in Messina I found the (sometimes) great English [The death of Sir Frances Verney.] Gallant Sr. Frances Verny lying sick in a Hospitall, whom sixe weekes before I had met in Palermo: Who after many misfortunes in exhausting his large patrimony, abandoning his Countrey, and turning Turk in Tunneis; he was taken at Sea by the Sicilian Gallies: In one of which he was two yeares a slave, whence hee was redeemed by an English Jesuite, upon a promise of his Conversion to the Christian faith: When set at liberty, hee turned common Souldier, and here in the extreamest calamity of extreame miseries, contracted Death: Whose dead Corpes I charitably interred in the best manner, time could affoord me strength, bewailing sorrowfully the miserable mutability of Fortune, who from so great a Birth, had given him so meane a Buriall; and truly so may I say, Sic transit gloria mundi.