Part 32

After sixteene dayes attendance for passage, their fortunately accoasted heere twelve Napolitan Gallies come from Apulia, and bound for Naples: In one of which, by favour of Marquesse Dell Sancta Cruce the Generall, I imbarked, and so set forward through the narrow Seas, which divide Italy and Sicilia: The strait whereof, is 24. miles in length, in breadth 6. 4. and 2. miles. This Sea, is called the faro of Messina, and fretum Siculum; at the West end whereof, wee met with two contrary chopping tides, which somewhat rusling like unto broken Seas, did choake the Gallies with a strugling force:

Incidunt in Scyllam, cupiens vitare Charibdim.

Who strive to shunne, the hard Calabrian coast, On sandy Scilla, wrestling they are lost.

[A comparison of irrepugnable streames.] Yet of no such eminent perill, or repugnable Currents, as be in the firths of Stronza and Westra: especially Pentland firth, which divideth Katnes from Pemonia, the mayne Land of Orknay; wherein who unskilfully looseth from eyther sides, may quickly loose sight both of Life and Land for ever. As we entred in the Gulfe of Saint Eufemia, we fetched up the little Ile of Strombolo: This Isolet is a round Rocke, and a mile in Compasse, growing to the top like to a Pomo, or Pyramide, and not much unlike the Isolets of Basse and Elsey, through the toppe whereof, as through a Chimney arriseth a continuall fire, and that so terrible, and furiously casting foorth great stones and flames, that neyther Galley nor Boate, dare Coast or boord it.

South from hence, and in sight thereof, on the North Coast of Sicily lye the two Ilands, Vulcan Major, and Minor; whereof the lesser perpetually burneth, and the greater is long since consumed. On the fourth day we touched at Ischa, the greatest Ile belonging to Naples, and 20. miles in Circuite, being strongly begirded with Rockey heights. The chiefe Towne is Ischa, whether Ferdinando of Naples fled, being thrust out of his Kingdome by Charles the eight.

[A boyling Fountaine in the Ile of Ischa.] There is a Fountayne here of that incredible heate, that in short time will boyle any fish or flesh put in it, and the taste agreeable to digestion. Departing from thence, and coasting the mayne shoare, we had a Moorish Frigot in Chase, where seazing on her, we found 16. Moores therein, and sixe Christians, three men, two Women, and a Boy, whom they had taken up, in going betweene two Townes by the Sea side. The Peasants were set at liberty, and the Moores immediately preferred to chaynes of Iron, bloody lashes, tugging of Gally oares, and perpetuall slavery.

Neere the Marine, and in sight of Naples, wee boorded close by the foote of the Hill Vesuvio, which in time past did burne, but now extinguished: It was here that the elder Pliny who had spent all his time in discovering the secrets of Nature; pressing neere to behold it, was stifled with the flame, so that he dyed in the same place, which is most excellently described in the Booke of his Epistles, by his Nephew the younger.

Arriving at Naples, I gave joyfull thankes to God for my safe returne to Christendome, and the day following, I went to review the auncient Monuments of Putzola or Puteoli: Which when I had dilligently remarked in my returne halfe way to Naples, I met the aforesayd English Gentleman and M. Woode, who needes would have me turne backe to accompany them hither. When come, we tooke a Guide, and so proceeded in our sights; the first [The antiquities of Putzolo.] thing of any note wee saw, was the stupendious Bridge, which Caius Caligula builded betweene Putzolo and Baia, over an arme of the Sea, two miles broad: Some huge Arches, Pillars, and fragments whereof remayne unruined to this day: The next, was the new made Mountayne of Sand, which hath dryed up Lago Lucrino, being by an Earth-quake transported hither; at the foote of this fabolous Hill, we saw the remnants of Ciceroes Village.

Thence we came to the Temple of Apollo, standing on the East side of Lacus Avernus, the Walles whereof, and pendicles (the Tecture excepted) are as yet undemolished.

This Lake Averno is round, and hemb'd in about with comely heights, being as our Guide reported infinitely deepe, and in circuite a short mile. The West end whereof, is invironed with the Mountayne of Cuma, whether Æneas arrived when hee fled from Dido Queene of Carthage, and sister to Pigmalion King of Tyrus.

Advancing our way, along the brinke of the Lake, we [Sybilaes Cave.] came to Sybillaes Cave, the entery being darke, because of the obscure passage, hewen out and cut through the mayne Rocke, our Guide strooke fire, and so with a Flambo marched before us. The first passage was exceeding high Cime, and the further end stopped with mouldring earth. Inclining to our right hand, we passed through a very straite and low passage, and so arrived in Sybillaes Chamber, which is a delicate Roome, and Artificially decored with Mosaical Worke: Here it is sayd, the Divell frequented her Company, and where shee wrot her Prophecies. From thence hee conducted us through a most intricate and narrow way, (wherein we were forced to walke sidling in) to a large and vast Rome: The Rockey vault whereof, was hanging full of loose and long stones, many of which were fallen to the bottome.

This great Cell or Hall, is a yard deepe of blackish Water, [The old dining roome of Sybilla.] and was the dining Roome of Sybilla: In which hearing toward the further end, a scriking noyse, as if it had beene the chirking of Frogs, the hissing of Serpents, the bussing of Bees, or snarling of Wolves; we demanded our Guide from whence such a sound proceeded? Who answered, they were Dragons and flying Serpents, praying us to Returne, for the fellow was mightily affrayde: Whereat I laughing, Replyed, there was no such matter; and M. Stydolffe desirous to know it, hee onely and I, leaving the other two behind us, adventured the tryall: Having more then halfe way entered in this Sale, stepping on huge stones because of the Water, and I carrying the Flambo, for lacke of ayre, being so far under ground, the light perished. Whereupon wee hollowed to our Guide, but the Reverberating Eccho avoyded the sense of our words, neyther would he, nor durst he hazard to support us.

Meanewhile it being Hell-darke, and impossible to find such a difficult way backe, and tendering (as by duty) the worthy Gentleman, I stepped downe to my middle thigh in the water, wrestling so along to keepe him on the dry stones. Where indeed I must confesse, I grew affrighted for my legs, fearing to be interlaced with water Serpents, and Snakes, for indeed the distracting noyse drew aye nearer and nearer us. At last, falling neare the voyce of our guide, who never left shouting, wee returned the same way wee came in, and so through the other passages, till wee were in open fields.

Here indeed for my too much curiosity, I was condignely requited, being all bemired and wet to the middle, yet forthwith the vigorous Sunne disburdned me quickly thereof: From thence (to be briefe) we came to [The ancient varieties of the antiquities of Putzolo.] the Bagni, the relicts of Pompeis Village, to the Fort of Baia, and the Laborinth of Ciento Camarello, into the admirable fish ponds of Lucullus, (the coverture of which, is supported by 48. naturall pillars of stony earth) to the detriments of Messina, Mercato sabbato, and the Elisian fields: Thence we returned by the Sepulcher of Agricula, the mother of cruell Nero, who slit up her belly to see the matrix wherein he was conceived; and by the two decayed Temples of Venus, and Mercury: Crossing over in a boat to the Towne of Putzolo, the chiefe monument we saw, was the auncient Temple of Jupiter, who serveth now for their Domo, or Parochiall Church: The latter Idolatry of which, is nothing inferiour to the former.

Meanewhile here arrived the French Gallies, fetching home Chevalier du Vandum, the Prior of France from Malta: Who scouring the coast of the lower Barbary, their fortune was to fall upon a misfortunate English ship belonging to Captaine Pennington, which they as a Cursaro or man of Warre confiscated. Their Anchors fallen, I boorded the Queenes Galley, where to my great griefe I found a Countrey-man of speciall acquaintance, [The Mr. of a Scots ship distressed by evill misfortune.] George Gib of Burrowtownenes (who was Pylot to the English) fast chained to an oare, with shaven head and face: Who had his owne shippe twice seazed on by the Turkes, and Mamora, which ship he lastly recovered at the Ile Sardinia, and sold her at Naples being miserably worme-eaten. To whose undeserved miseries, in my charitable love, I made a Christian oath, that at my arrivall in England, I should procure by the helpe of his friends, his Majesties letters to the Duke of Guyse Admirall, for his deliverance. But soone thereafter, being of a great spirit, his heart broke, and so died in Marseils.

Tempora labuntur, tacitisque senescimus annis, Et fugiunt fræno, non remorante Dies.

Times slide away, gray haires come posting on, No reyne can hold, our dayes so swiftly gon.

Departing from Putzolo, we came to the Sulphatara, where the fine Brimstone is made, which is a pretty incircling Plaine, standing upon a moderate hight; having three vents, through two of which, the smoaking flame ariseth, and the other produceth no fire; but after an excessive raine surgeth sixe foote high with blacke boyling water, which continueth so long as the rayne lasteth.

From thence (our Guide leaving us) we came to Grotto di cane; wherein if a Dogge be cast he will suddenly die, and taken thence, and cast in the Lake, he will forthwith revive: This Grotto or Cave, standeth on the side and root of a sulphure hill, the brinke of Lago di Avagno: We desirous to make tryall of a Dog; and finding the fellow that purposely stayeth there somewhat extortionable, I adventured in stead of a Dog to make tryall of my selfe; Whereupon Maister Stydolffe holding up the quartered doore, I entered to the further end thereof, bringing back a warme stone in each hand from thence: whereat the Italians swore, I was a Divell and not a man: for behold (say they) there was a French Gentleman the former yeare, who in a Bravado, would needes goe in: whereupon hee was presently stifled to death, and here lyeth buried at the mouth of the Grotto to serve for a caveat, to all rash and unadvised strangers to doe the like.

[The dangerous Dogs Cave neare unto Putzolo.] The relation indeed was true, but I counting nothing of it, would needes (sore against the Gentleman and Master Woods will) goe in againe, where entred to the bottome being ten paces long, the moysty and choaking heat did so suffocate and benumbe my senses, that with much adoe I returned backe; where receiving the fresh ayre, and a little Wine, I presently forgot my former trance: which when the Dog-keeper saw, he for an easie composition made triall of his Dog; and having tyed a string to his hinder leg, he cast the Dog scarce halfe way in the Cave, where immediately his tongue hanging out, he fell downe dead: And forthwith his Master repulling him backe, cast him in the Lake, powring in water in his eares, but hee could never recover his life. Whereupon the poore man cried out, alas I am undone, what shall I doe, the Dog that wonne my dayly food is dead; in compassion whereof the worthy Gentleman doubled his wages.

In our way and returne to Naples, we passed through Virgils Grot, being halfe a mile long, and cut through the maine body of a Rocke, whereby the Mountaine of Cataia by the Sea-side is made passable; at the East end whereof neare the Cyme of the vault is Virgils Tombe: and arrived at Naples, Mr. William Stydolffe reporting to divers of his Countrey Gentlemen and mine, of my adventure in Grotto di Cane, they could hardly be perswaded to beleeve it: But when avouched, they all avowed I had done that (so did divers Neapolitans) which never man had done before me reserving life.

Bidding farewell to my generous friends, I marched through Terra di lavoro, and in the way of Saint Germane, and Mount Cassino to Rome; within ten miles of Capua, [Great poverty under great titles.] I found the poorest Bishop (Nomen sine re) the world affoordeth: having no more (nor never had he, nor any before him) than dui Carolini or Juletti twelve pence a day to spend. So is there many a Marquesse, Earle, Baron, and Knight in Italy, who is unable at one time, to keepe a foote-man at his heeles, a Dog at his foote, a Horse betweene his legs, a good sute of clothes on his backe, and his belly well fed; so glorious be their stiles, and so miserable their revenewes.

Touching at Rome, I secretly borrowed one nights lodging there, and at the breach of day another houres sight and conference, with my Cousing Simeon Grahame; who ere the Sunne arose, crossing Ponto flamingo, brought me on in my journey, till a high way Taverne like a Jayle held us both fast, where leaving our reciprocall loves behind us, wee divided our bodies East and West.

And now ere I leave Rome, I thinke it best, to let our Papists here at home, see the shamefull lives & cruell deaths, of most of their Popes beyond Seas: which their owne best Authors in France, Italy, and Spaine, have justly & condignely avouched & recorded; & authorized also to light by their prime powers civil and spirituall. The papists generally hold, that in their Popes, is all power; Super omnes Potestates, tam Cæli quam Terræ; above all powers both in Heaven and Earth: They tearme him Alter Deus in terris; a second God upon the Earth: Deus mortalis in terris, et immortalis homo in Cælis; a mortall god upon the Earth, and an Immortall man in the Heavens: Some of them have allotted, that he is, Non deus, non homo, sed utrunque; neyther God nor man but both: The Popes former title was Servus servorum Dei; and they call him Rex Regum, Dominus Dominantium, King of Kings, and Lord of Lords.

[The false and arrogant titles of the Pope.] Paul the third, entering Tolentino in the vale of Ombria joyning with Tuscany, had this salutation: Paulo tertio, Maximo, in terris Deo; to Paule the third, the best, and greatest God on earth. Then since they will have them gods, above the God of Gods; tell me I pray you, what a May pole Dauncer, was John 12. alias 13. of 18. yeares old, who made the Lateran their great Church in Rome, a playne Stewes or Brothel house.

What a Pope-boy of twelve yeares old, was Benedict the ninth? and after wrought by inchantments. Another Pope they had, whom they called Unum pecus, in co quod de mane faciebat gratiam, et de sero revocabat: A very Asse, for in the morning hee would grant many great kindnesses, and at night revoake them all agayne. What a thiefe was Pope Boniface the seventh? who robbed St. Peters Church? What a sodomiticall Pope was Sixtus the fourth; who builded Stewes of both kindes, granting his Cardinals the use of Sodomy, for three hote moneths. What an Atheisticall Pope, was Leo the tenth? who called the Gospell a Fable. What a Hereticall Pope was Honorius the first? who by sixe general Counsels, was condemned for a Monothelit: What a perjured Pope was Gregory the twelfth? and openly forsworne: What a Negromancer was Silvester the second? who gave himselfe both soule and body to the divell, to attaine the Popedome: What was Pope John the eleventh, but a bastardly brat to Pope Sergius? What a sorcerer, Charmer, and Conjurer, was Hildebrand, called Gregory the seventh? given to all beastlinesse, and diabolicall practices; this was he that threw the Sacrament in the fire: What was [A tract of beastly Popes and cruell Villaines.] Innocent the third? who was branded with this black marke, non est innocentius, imo nocens vere, he is not innocent; but very nocent: What a wicked and cruell murtherer was John the twelfth a Romane borne, who caused to cut off the nose of one Cardinall, and the thumbe of another Cardinall; onely because they had wrot the whole tract of his abhominable vices to the Emperour Otho.

What an inhumane and homicidious Pope was Stephanus the seventh? who after he had cancelled the decrees of his predecessour Formosus, caused to deterre his dead body, cut off his fingers, and lay him in the fields to be devoured with the fowles of the aire: What a beastly Pope was Sergius the third? that after he had imprisoned Christopholus his predecessor, he caused to draw out the corps of Pope Formosus his old compeditor from the grave, and cut off his head, as though hee had beene alive.

What a cruelty was shown upon John the 17. who after he was depraved his Papacy, had his eyes pulled out, his nose cut off and his members, and was hanged: What a poysonable Pope was Damasus? who poysoned his predecessour Clemens the second, to attaine the Papality, and yet dyed within a moneth there after being Pope: What a mercilesse Pope was Boniface the seventh, that after he had Rob'd Saint Peters Church and fled to Constantinople, hearing that Pope John the 14. was replaced, he returned, and pulling out his eyes, did cast him in prison, where he dyed of extreame hunger. What a persecution had Gelase borne in Gaetta neare Naples, who first by the Romanes was imprisoned, then stoned through the Citty, miserably dyed. Gregory the 8. succeeding him, was Deposed by Caliste brother to the Duke of Burgondy, who imprisoned the other, and starving him to Death, made him selfe Pope.

What devotion fell out from the braines of Rome, to stone Pope Lucius the second to Death: What a shamefull division was in your Papality; for fifty yeares, when Urbanus lived Pope at Rome and his Successours; and Clemens 7. and his Successors at Avigneon. Nay, you have had three Popes at one time; even when Sigismond King of Hungary and Boheme was elected Emperour, to wit. [Three severall Popes living at one time.] Benedict 3. at Avigneon; John 23. at Bullogna; and Gregory the twelfth at Rimini: I pray you, could every one of them open and shut the Gates of Heaven and Hell. What an Infidell, was Pope John 22. who denied the immortality of the Soule.

What was Clement the 5. but an open Whore munger and a drunken sot. What was Boniface the 8. he was called a Theefe, a Robber, and rooted in all unspeakable sinnes, the eight Nero of Rome. What a furious and wicked Pope, was Julius the second? who given more to Warre then to Christ, cast Saint Peters keyes (as they call them) into Tiber. What a prophaine skoffer of Christ, was Paule the third? who lying in bed with his owne Cousin Laura Farnesia, was sore wounded by her Husband; he lay with his owne Daughter, and poysoned her Husband; and then lay with his owne sister, and after poysoned both her and his owne mother. What was Julius the third? an open Sodomite, and horrible blasphemer. What was Pope Eugenius? a damnable scandalizer of the Church, and condemned by the Counsel of Basil, for an incorrigible and wilfull Hereticke. Pope John 23. was deposed by the Counsell of Constance, for Heresie, Symony, Murther, Enchantment, Adultery, and [The Papists may looke here upon divellish Popes.] worst of all for Sodomy. What was Pope John 13. a vilde monster in his life, committing incest with both his sisters, and fathers Concubine Stephana: Hee was a gamster, and playing at Dice, did call for helpe to the Divel, and would drinke to the Divels health; hee was repleate with all abhominable vices; at last being taken in the acte of Adultery, was wounded to Death.

Boniface the 8. afore named, came to bee Pope, by cousning his predecessour Celestine, in speaking through the Wall in a Reed (as if it had beene a voyce from Heaven) admonished him to surrender his Papacy; whose Epithit was thus: Intravit ut Vulpes, Regnavit ut Lupus, Mortuus est ut Canis: He came in like a Fox, he ruled like a Wolfe, he dyed like a Dogge.

At the sixt Counsell of Carthage, was not the treachery and falshood of Pope Zosimus, condignely sifted out, in corrupting for ambitious government the Counsell of Nyce. Bernard about 500. yeares agoe, complayned much of the Tyranny of popes in his time, calling them Defrauders, Raveners, Traytors, darknesse of the world, Pilats, Wolves, and Divels.

Albertus Magnus affirmeth, that they who now governe their Church, are for the most part Theeves and Murtherers. And Platina, calleth some of their popes vile Monsters, uncleane beasts, and strange creatures. And I remember it was noted by a Historian: Episcopos Romanos ne peccata quidem sine laude committere: The Popes could do nothing, were it never so mischievous, but it was commendable.

And even likewise are their prime Pardons, for Noxas preteritas, aut futuras: and their future potestatem, tam quo ad commissa, quam quo ad committenda crimina absolvenda; That his Holinesse hath all manner of power, as well to absolve them from crimes to commit, as from crimes committed. And I remember about twenty yeares [A false cannonized Saint.] ago Paulo Papa quinto, Cannonized Carolo Borrameo, the late Bishop of Milane for a notable Saint, being knowne to bee a notorious and scelerate liver: done sooner by fifteene yeares then their ordinary time, and that for the touch of forty thousand Duckats; allotting Prayers, Miracles, Pardons, and Pilgrimages to him, and erecting a new Order of Friers, and Monasteries unto him. And yet the poore Bishop of Lodi, a good and charitable liver by all reports, could never, nor cannot attayne to the dignity of a Saint, his meanes was so small when dead, and his friends so poore being alive.

And how wonderfull absurd is the Popes Bulla di Santa Cruzada, pro defunctis in Purgatory; that for one Pater noster, at a Masse saying, or a Masse sayd for them: Sicavano fuora dalla Purgatorio, tre anime qualche ci vogliano, viz. You shall relieve any three soules out of Purgatory whom you please. Nay, I have seene the Popes Edict so gracious, that induring one Masse, as many Paters as you can recite, as many soules you free from thence.

And thus me thinketh in one halfe yeare, he might soone empty that purging pit: Yet unlesse the Suppliant touch with his finger, during his Prayers, a gaudy beede inraveled betweene five small fast made irons, placed before the Altar; their Bulla, their payment for it; their Paters, their Devotion for their friends soules, are all lost. Then say, if peradventure, the friends of the defunct be oblivious in this officiousnesse, and neglect both the Ceremony, and Pater noster, might not the Pope justly be reputed a cruell Monster, that for want of pattering an abridged Pater, his Cerberian Office in Hell, should detayne any poore soule in such torments, as they say are in Purgatory.