Part 35

Arragon, hath Navarre to the West, South Valentia Kingdome, East, and South-east Catalogna; and on the North the Alpes Pyrhenese. It is an auncient and famous Kingdome, under whose Jurisdiction, were both the petty Kingdomes of Valentia, & Barselona: And not long ago traduced to the Castilian King by marriage. For although Castilia hath the language, they have the lineall dissent of the Romans; the Inhabitants whereof being instinctively endued with all humane affabilities. From thence returning through the old Castilia, or Kingdome of Burgos, in the way to St. Iago of Compostella in Galitia: It was my fortune, at St. Domingo to enter the Towne-Church: accompanied with two French Puppies, mindfull to shew me a miraculous matter.

Where, when come, I espied over my head opposit to the great Altar, two milke white Hennes, enraveled in [A leying miracle.] an iron Cage, on the inner side of the Porches Promontore. And demanding why they were kept? Or what they signified? Certaine Spaniards replyed come along with us, and you shall see the Storie, and being brought to the (Choro) it was drawne thereon as followeth. The father and the sonne, two Burboneons of France; going in Pilgrimage to St. James, it was their lot to lodge here in an Inne: Where supper ended, and reckoning payed, the Host perceiving their denariat charge, he entered their Chamber, when they were a sleepe, and in bed, conveying his owne purse in the young mans Budget.

To morrow earely; the two innocent Pilgrimes, footing the hard bruising way, were quickly over-hied by the Justice; where the Host making search for his purse, found it in the sonnes bagge. Whereupon instantly, and in the same place hee was hanged, and left hanging there, seazing on their money be a sententiall forfeiture.

The sorrowfull Father (notwithstanding) continued his Pilgrimage to Compostella. Where, when come, and devotion made, our Lady of Mount Serata appeared to him saying: Thy prayers are heard, and thy groanes have pierced my heart, arise, and returne to Saint Domingo for thy sonne liveth. And hee accordingly returned, found it so, and the sonne-hanged Monster, after 30. dayes absence, spoke thus from the Gallowes, Father, goe to our Host, and shew him I live, then speedily returne. By which direction the old man entred the Towne, and finding the Host at Table, in breaking up of two roasted Pullets, [A damnable delusion of a divellish miracle.] told him, and sayd: My sonne liveth, come and see. To which the smiling Host replyed, he is as surely alive on the Gallowes, as these two Pullets be alive in the dish. At which protestation, the two fire-scorched fowles leapt out suddainly alive, with heads, wings, feathers, and feet, and kekling, tooke flight thrice about the Table. The which amazing sight, made the astonished Host to confesse his guiltines; and the other relieved from the rope, he was hung up in his place, allotting his house for an Hospitality to Pilgrimes for ever.

There are still two Hennes reserved here, in memory of this miracle, and aye changed, as they grow fat for the Priests chops, being freely given to the place. And I dare swearing say, these Priests eate fatter Hennes, than Don Phillipo him selfe, they being fed by the peoples devotion, at their enterance to the morning and evening sacrifices, and are tearmed holy Hennes. Infinite paper could I blot, with relating the like absurdities, and miraculous lies of the Romane Church, but leaving them till a fitter occasion, I proceed. From thence traversing a great part of the higher Asturia, I entred in Galitia, and found the Countrey so barren, the people so poore, and victuals so scarce, that this importunate inforcement, withdrew me from S. Jacques, to Portugale: Where I found little better, or lesser reliefe, their soyles being absolute sterile, desartuous, and mountainous.

[The Kingdome of Portugale.] Portugale was formerly called Lusitania, and Hispania, ulteriora: It is in length 320. miles, large 68. and sometimes under: In the Moorish domination it was divided in two Kingdomes, the one reserveth the name of all; the other was called Agarbas: A word Arabick that signifieth the part Occidentall: And were divided with the River Guadion, and the two Castles Odebera, and Aleotino: Agarbas was toward the South, & Portugale Northward.

Portugale is now confined on the South, and South-East with Andolusia: West and South-West, the maine Ocean. Galitia to the North: And Eastward the old and new Castilia. After twenty dayes fastidious climbing in this Kingdome, I returned to Salamancha in Castilia Vecchia; the Sacerdotall University of Spaine, whence springeth these Flockes of Studientes, that over-swarme the whole land with rogueries, robberies, and begging. From thence traversing the Alpes of Siera de Caderama, (which divide the two Castilias) I discended the South side of the mountaines, and arrived at the Escurial; where then late King Phillip the third, had his residence.

[The palace of Escuriall.] This Pallace standeth alone, and founded upon the skirt of a perpendicular hill of Caderama, squared out from a devalling steepnesse, having a large prospect Southwardly towards the Evenise mountaines beyond Toledo. This palatiat cloyster is quadrangled foure stories high, the uppermost whereof, is window-set in the blew tecture: The stone worke below, having three rankes of larger windowes, incircling the whole quadrangles, and French-like high rigged. At every spacious squadrat corner, there is an high Turret erected, above the coverture, whose tops beare each of them a golden Globe. In the middle court standeth a round incorporate Church, arising outward in a rotundo, with a wide leaden top, and on each side thereof a squadrat Steeple, higher then the round, making a goodly shew. It hath neither outward walles nor gates, but the two selfe doores of the eleven incloystered petty Courts, save onely some office houses without, and they stand alone by the hill broken side. [Escurial is rather a Monastery than Palace.] I may rather tearme it a Monastery, then a Kingly Pallace, having a hundred and fifty Monkes, Chartuzians, of St. Hieronimoes order living within it; the King onely remaining in a private corner, at his comming thither. Nay at that instant, he was so private that before I saw his face, I could not beleeve, that the Patrone of so great a Monarchy, could be so quiet; yea, as quiet as a Countrey Baron is with us, and had lived so nine weekes before. The house it selfe I confesse, excelleth in beauty, that Constantinopolitan Seralia, of the great Turke: though not in divisions, and ground distances, yet for a maine incorporate house, and was builded by King Philip the second, standing seven leagues from Madrile, to which I arrived.

Here is the residence of the Court though formerly at Valladoli: Madrid or Madrile, is the Center or middle part of Spaine, situate in the Kingdome of Toledo, the new Castilia. And distant from Lisbone in Portugale Westward one hundred leagues: From Sevilia in Andoluzia ninety leagues: From Grenada Southward, sixty eight leagues: Barselona in Catalogna, East, South-eastward one hundred leagues: From Valentia fifty leagues: From Siragusa in Arragon Eastward fifty three leagues: From Saint Sebastian in Biscai North-westward seventy leagues: And from Pampelona in Navarre, North-eastward, forty nine leagues. Spaine generally, is a masse of mountaines, a barren ill manured soyle: Neither well inhabited nor populous: Yea, so desartuous that in the very heart of Spaine, I have gone eighteene leagues, (two dayes journey) unseeing house or Village, except two Ventas, Tavernes. And commonly eight leagues without any house: Villages be so farre distant, the Rockie Seraes or Alpes so innumerable.

[It is miserable travelling in Spaine.] It is miserable travelling, lesse profitable, in these ten Provinces, or petty Kingdomes, hard lodging and poore, great scarcity of beds and deare: And no ready drest diet, unlesse you buy it raw; and cause dresse, or dresse it your selfe, buying first in one place your fire, your meate from the Butcher, your bread from the Baker, your Wine from the Taverne, your Fruites, Oyle, and Hearbes from the Botega, carying all to the last place, your bed-lodging: Thus must the weary Stranger toile, or else fast: And in infinite places for Gold nor money can have no victuals; but restrained to a relenting jejunation. The high-minded Spaniard and their high topped mountaines, have an infused contention together. The one through arrogant ambition, would invade the whole earth to inlarge his dominions: The other by a steepe swolne hight, seeme to threaten the Heavens to pull down Jupiter from his throne. And as I take it, the Spaniard being of a low stature, borroweth his high-minded breast from the high topped mountaines, for the one in quality, and the other in quantity, be extraordinarily infounded.

Certaine it is, as the Spaniard in all things standeth mainely upon his reputation (but never to avouch it with single combat) so he vaunteth not a little of his antiquity, deriving his pedegree from Tubal, the Nephew of Noe. But (especially as they draw it) how often hath the Line of Tubal, beene bastarded, degenerated, and quite expelled, by invasions of Phænicians, oppressions of the Greekes, incursiones of the Carthaginians, the Conquest and planting of Provinces, and Colonies of the Romanes, the general deluge of the Gothes, Hunnes, and Vandales: and lastly, [The long captivity of the Spaniards under the Mores.] by the long and intolerable Tyranny of the Moores, whose slavish yoake and bondage in 800. yeares, hee could scarcely shake off; his owne Histories beare sufficient testimony and Record. Then it is manifest, that this mixture of Nations, must of necessity make a compounded Nature, such as having affinity with many, have no perfection in any one.

Their Manners are conformable to their discent, and their conditionall Vertues semblable to their last and longest Conquerors, of whom they retayne the truest stampe.

The most penurious Peasants in the World be heere, whose Quotidian moanes, might draw teares from stones. Their Villages stand as wast like as the Sabunck, Garamont, or Arabian Pavilleons, wanting Gardens, Hedges, Closses, Barnes, or Backe-sides: This sluggish and idle husbandry, being a natural instinct of their neighbour or paternal Moores.

As for industrious Artes, Inventions, and Vertues, they are as dull thereof, as their late Predecessours: and truely I confesse for the Spanish Nunne, she is more holy then the Italian; the former are onely Reserved to the Friers, and Priests: The latter being more Noble, have most affinity with Gentle-men. The Spaniard is of a spare dyet and temperate, if at his owne cost he spend; but if given Gratis, he hath the longest Tuskes that ever stroke at Table.

After a doubtfull and dangerous departure from Madrid (as Sir Walter Aston his Majesties Ambassador can testifie with his Followers, as some of his people have already here done the same,) being the drift of my owne Country-men, I came to Toledo twelve Leagues distant from thence: This Citty is situate on a ragged Rocke upon the River Tagus, being an Arch-bishops seate, the Primat and Metropolitan Sea of all Spaine: Yet a miserably impoverished and deformed place.

[Naked ambition conferred upon poore Toledo.] And although the Spaniard, of all Townes in Spaine, braggeth most of Toledo, it is neyther (doubtlesse I know) for beauty, bounds, nor Wealth, if not for the Intrado belongeth to it, amounting yearely (as they affirme) to 200000 Duckats; for there is no other Episcopal Seate, in all Castilia, or Kingdome of Toledo. Giving backe to Toledo, I crossed the crossing Siera de Morada, (which divideth the Kingdome of Grenada, from the Mansha of the new Castilia) and arrived at Grenada, the Capital of Andolusia.

Here had the Moores their last residence in Spaine, and was magnanimously recovered, Anno 1499. yeares, by Ferdinando the Castilian King, and his wife Isabella. It standeth at the foote of Siera de Nevada (the Snowy Alpes,) who reserve continually Snow on their tops, and partly inclosed betweene two Snow-melting Rivers. In this Citty is the principall Seate, and Colledge of Justice, of all South Spaine: As Valladoli is for the North of Spaine, the high Court of Madrid having Prerogative over both.

It hath a spacious and strong Castle, which was builded by the Moores, and indeede a Kingly mansion: Where I saw the Hals and Bed-Chambers of the Moorish Kings, most exquisitly, over-siled, and indented with Mosaicall worke; excelling farre any moderne industry whatsoever.

The Emperour Charles the fift, and King of Spaine; after his returne from that misfortunate voyage of Algier, left a monument here, never likely to have beene accomplished, that is, the foundation of an admirable worke advanced two stories high: without it is quadrangled, and within round; having two degrees of incircling promontores, supported by Marble pillars, and Allabaster arches.

Being dismissed here, it was my fortune at Antecara to [Mr. Woodson a London Merchant.] encounter with a Merchant, (M. Woodson a Londoner,) newly come from Venice, and bound to Malaga. With whom desirously accompanied, the day following being Sunday, with sore travayle wee came within night to Malaga, and thereafter parting to our severall Lodgings, the next morning I addressed my selfe to the shoare side; where I had notice given me, of a French ship belonging to Tolon in Provance, that was lying in the Mould, and shortly bound for Alexandria: And finding that Transportation most convenient for my designe (my safest course lying through Ægypt and the Red Sea, for Prester Jehans Dominions and Court) I presently made bargaine with the Ships-master, for my passage and Victuals.

And now attending my departure thence, uppon the fift day after my comming hither Anno 1620. October 27. the English Fleete that went agaynst the Pyrats of Algier, gave Anchor at mid-night in the Roade: Whose suddaine comming, yeelded no small feare to the affrighted Towne, mistaking them for Turkes; for the two Castle-bells Ringing backe-ward, the thundring Drums resounding, and the Towne all the latter night in Armes, bred such [Malaga affrighted with the English Fleet.] disturbant despaire to their families, and distraction to themselves, that their wives and children fled to the higher Castle without the Towne; and I a stayd Consort with the Defendants till day light. But morning come, and the English Colours discovered, Don Jaspar Ruiz de Peredas the Governour, went aboord of the English Generall Sir Robert Maunsell; where after congratulating complements, he being returned a shoare, dismissed the Burgers and their Armes. In that afternoone, and the day following beeing Satturday, there came hundreds a shoare of my speciall friends, and olde familiars, Londoners, and Courtiers, with whom desirously met, we were joviall together, till Sunday morning: where then I went aboord of the Lyon, his Majesties ship, and saluted the Generall, who kindly intertained mee to the next day, that the Fleete was divided in three Squaders, and he under Sayle, and then unhappily came I a shoare in a Fisher boate, to my deare bought destruction, beeing sore agaynst the Generals will, but that I should have gone with him to Algier: Save onely that my Linnen, Letters, and Sacket was lying in my hostery, and so could not go: but what shal I say?

Quod fortuna dedit, nemo tollere potest.

And so now followeth the sorrowfull Relations of my Tragicall sufferings, which as briefly as I may, I shall succinctly avouch, although the larger, the better to be understood.

Sad soule mixe truth, with grave and prompe discourse Let passiones be, this Tragicke stile must rest On Faith and Patience, Columnes of secourse, Which underprop'd my sufferings here exprest: Lord weigh my words, with wisdome, give me grace In all this Worke, to give thy glory place.

I was no sooner entred the Towne, and drawing up a private way to my lodging, to shunne company and acquaintance, for that night was I to have imbarked for Alexandria, but I was suddenly surprised in that narrow depopulated street, with nine Alguozilos, Sergeants, who inclosing mee on both sides layd violent hands on mee, wrapping me up in a blacke frizado cloake, and gripping my throat to stop my crying, they carryed me on their armes to the governours house, and inclosed me in a low Parlour.

[A sad request to a mercilesse Governour.] To which when the Governour came, for I was acquainted with him before I sadly spoke, saying, My most noble Governour, and worthy Lord, I humbly beseech your goodnes to shew me, for what offence or cause, I am thus violently brought before you, knowing that in me, and from my carriage, there is no injury committed. Whereat, without answer, and shaking his head, he caused inclose mee in a little Cabinet within the Parlour, till he went for Masse, commanding them with all possible dilligence to fetch hither, the Captaine of the Towne Don Francesco, di Cordova, the Alcade major, and the States Scrivan, enjoyning them to conceale my apprehending till further tryal under the paine of death.

At last he from the Masse, and they come hither, the Sergeants were dismissed, the doores made fast, and I was brought forth before these foure Cavalliers, all placed in chayres, and the Scrivan-table set, with pen and paper to write my confession. Where after long silence, the Governour asked mee of my Nation, and how long, and how often I had beene out of my Country: and whether I was bound? and how long I had beene in Spaine.

To whom I punctually returned my dividuat answers:

Whereupon being inclosed in my former Cabinet, within a while Don Francesco entred my roome, demanding mee if I had beene in Civilia, or was come from it; and clapping my cheeks with a Judas-smile made this entreaty. My deare brother, and gallant Companion, confesse freely that you have beene in Civilia, for your countenance bewrayeth, there are some hidden purposes in the closet of your breast; and Para fuyr mas malo, you had best in time relate to mee the trueth.

Whereat I saying no, as truth acquired, he went back, resolving them of my stiffe denyall, and they therewith incensed, I was invited to their former presence, and maine accusations ensuing. [A tyrannical constrayned Oath.] First the Governour made me sweare and hold up my hand, that I should tell the particular trueth of every thing hee was to demand of mee; which indeed I did according to my knowledge.

Then he inquired if the English Generall, was a Duke, or great Signior, and what could be the reason, that he refused to come a shoare there; for that was the first impression of their false conceived jealousie. Next; he asked mee, if I knew his name, and the other Captaines and what their names were? and what their intention was? or if I had knowne of their comming abroad, or preparation for it, before my departure from England.

The Scrivan writing downe meanewhile every word he spoke and what I answered: well; to all the former particulars giving condigne satisfaction, and to the last, denying that I knew of the forth comming of the fleet, they all foure gave a shout in the contrary. Whereupon the Governour swearing, cursed and said, thou leyest like a Villane, thou art a spy and a traytor, and camest directly from England of purpose to Spaine; and hath beene lying nine moneths in Sivilia, getting sure intelligence, when the Spanish Navy was looked for from the Indies; and that thou expressely heere, came to meete with the English Armado, (knowing of their dyet) to give them credible knowledge thereof: And that by thy information, they might the more readily compasse their endes, and thus thy treachery and subtilty, hath beene imployed.

Whereat I being astonished, and seriously answering for the intention of the English Fleete, and my owne [The English acquaintaynce, my greatest hinderance.] innocency concerning them: He threatning sayd, I was seene familiar a Boord and a shoare, with the whole Captaines, and knowne to be of their speciall acquaintance: besides three hundred other Gentle-men, and Mariners with whom, and they with thee, were so inward, that it far exceeded the kindnes of accidentall meeting.

All this we saw, and hourely remarked (sayd hee) and thou art newly come from the Generall, when thou wast taken, where consulting with their Counsell of Warre this morning, (concerning what they assigned thee to accomplish) thou hast delivered thy opinion, and the expectation of Sivilia, touching the returne of his Majesties Armado di Plato; and therefore thou art a Spiono, a Traytor, and a scelerate Velacco: for wee are not ignorant (sayd he) of the burning of St. Thome in the West Indies; for there and then, wee had a certaine evidence of the English infidelity, and treacherous exploytes in time of Peace: Wherefore these Lutheranes and Sonnes of the Divell, ought not from us good Catholickes to receive no credit.

Whereupon I besought him, to send for some sufficient English Factors, there sojourning, who would testifie the contrary in my behalfe, their Countrey, and their Fleete, but that he would not, for my being discovered. At last seeing his damnable opinion, and to cleare my selfe of such false imputations: I requested him to send a Sergeant to my Posado or Lodging for my Clogbag, where hee should see a more evident Testimony of my carriage and honest purpose, and thereupon the approbation of my Prince.

This demaund liked him well, thinking thereby to finde out all the secrets and practises of my Negotiation with the English Fleete: Whereupon forthwith, and with close Circumspection he had it brought unto him, my hostage [His Majesties Letters and Seales misregarded.] House not knowing where I was. The Clogbag I opened my selfe, and showing him his Majesties Letters in parchment, and under his Hand and Seale, dated at Theobals 1619. July 17. and compiled and wrot by M. Thomas Red, then Secretary for the Latine Tongue, done in my behalfe, and my intended Resolution for Æthiopia, the Kings safe Conduct he mis-regarded, giving it neyther Respect nor trust.

After which, I show'd him divers Patents, Seales, and the great Seale of Jerusalem, Pasports, and my Booke of Armes, called Liber amicorum, wherein, I had the hand-writs, and Armes of sundry Kings, Dukes, Princes, Vice-Royes, Marquesses, Earles, Lords, and Governors, &c. done in Prose and Verse, in Greeke, Latine, or their maternall tongues, being as propitious pledges of their favour, in commendation of me, and of my Travailes.

But all these would not satisfie him, nay, rather confirming a greater jealousie of his former suspition: whereupon misconstruing all, they seased absolutely upon my Clog-bag, viewing, and detayning all I had at their pleasure; including me the third time. This done, and within night, beeing Represented againe, the Governour commaunded me to subscribe my Confession, which I voluntarily obeyed; though they still urged me further and further to confesse. Meanewhile these foure Complices consulting about my Imprisonment, the Alcalde or chiefe Justice would have had me along with him to the Town Jayle, but the Corrigidor refused saying, Para non star visto con sus Pesanos: That hee may not bee seene by his Country-men, it behoveth me to have a care of his concealement: and I warrant you (sayd he) I shal lodge him well enough.