Part 1
A Dictionary of Men’s Wear
Embracing all the terms (so far as could be gathered) used in the men’s wear trades expressiv of raw and finisht products and of various stages and items of production; selling terms; trade and popular slang and cant terms; and many other things curious, pertinent and impertinent; with an appendix containing sundry useful tables; the uniforms of “ancient and honorable” independent military companies of the U. S.; charts of correct dress, livery, and so forth.
By
William Henry Baker
Author of “A Dictionary of Engraving”
[Illustration: [Logo]]
“A good dictionary is truly very interesting reading in spite of the man who declared that such an one changed the subject too often.”
—S WILLIAM BECK
CLEVELAND
WILLIAM HENRY BAKER
1908
Copyright 1908 By William Henry Baker Cleveland O
Press of The Britton Printing Co Cleveland
Dedication
Conforming to custom this unconventional book is
=Dedicated=
to those most likely to be benefitted, i. e., to
The 15000 or so Retail Clothiers The 15000 or so Custom Tailors The 1200 or so Clothing Manufacturers The 5000 or so Woolen and Cotton Mills
The 22000 or so Retail Shoe Dealers The 2300 or so Shoe Manufacturers and Jobbers The 19000 or so Retail Hatters The 1000 or so Hat and Cap Manufacturers and Jobbers
The 12000 or so Haberdashers The 22000 or so Dry Goods and Department Stores And other allied lines of business in this country Alike to owners and employes and especially to
=“The Advertising Man”= Who usually gets all that is coming to him and finally To every man with a library
Explanatory
Some seven years ago the author, then connected with a clothing manufacturing concern as advertising manager, wrote a compact little “Clothes Dictionary” which was presented to the trade with the compliments of the publishers. All definitions were short and to the point, many were humorous, and all were within a necessarily limited scope of interest. There had never been anything like it and the book “caught on” immediately, with the result that the author thereupon went to work seriously to compile a larger, fuller, more comprehensiv dictionary along similar lines.
The present book is the result. Six years or more (as time permitted) have been spent in reading, listening and correspondence for new terms and new meanings.
Naturally, as all first compilations must inevitably be, the book is, frankly, lacking many definitions, particularly of terms in popular use long ago, and doubtless, many of today. Wherefore no claim is made that the book is complete, but it is believed that it is reasonably so—or usably so.
In compilation the main purpose has been to make the book comprehensiv (covering about everything of men’s wear, use and interest) and, contrary to most dictionaries, encyclopedias and the like, interesting.
Altho the title specifies “men’s wear”, the book broadly covers many items of women’s wear (as many fabrics, etc., are common to both sexes), and except that items of strictly women’s wear have been omitted, might have been entitled “A Dictionary of Apparel”, and should, therefore, be of quite as much interest to the straight drygoods merchant as to the modern clothier.
The definitions are not tiresomely long—not any of them—but all are of sufficient length to cover essentials and are accurate and reliable; and, altho the dictionary is somewhat encyclopedic, it is not intended that it shall take the place of any encyclopedia. A feature of its forerunner that may be appreciated is that many of the less important and more obvious terms are dismist quite briefly or else freely or facetiously handled—enough so to induce one to search the pages for these alone.
Obviously, no hard and fast rules could be set to govern the work. Each term had to be considered in itself and explained so clearly, without waste (or skimping) of words, as to be understandable without the aid of pictures. That there has been no necessity for illustrations and that the book has been otherwise brightened without them the author considers somewhat of an achievment.
In a word, it has been the aim of the author to make simply a handy reference book, “popular” rather than learned, helping one over transient needs, leaving the wearying technical dissertations to text books, encyclopedias, etc. If this has been accomplisht, there is great cause for satisfaction to
WILLIAM HENRY BAKER
Cleveland, 1908
Memorandum
Please don’t be provoked by the use of “simplified spelling.” It helpt me cram much more in the compass of this book than could have been done with the use of some of our superannuated forms. Besides, simplification is the order of the day, and we might as well get used to it, every one of us. And, again, only the less jarring and those surest of early adoption have been used: there’s a concession to conservatism and “the conventions”.
Neither permit the abbreviation of repetitions of index-words to the initial letters thereof to confuse you. The eye catches the sense and simplicity of the scheme quickly enough (the brain should be no less nimble)—and the eye must not be offended. Besides, this has saved me more space than “simplified spelling”.
Please notice, further, that this is not a pronouncing dictionary. Most people in the trade don’t need this feature, thru daily familiarity with the terms, even tho they may not thoroly understand them—which is nothing unusual. And so, to keep as many “high-browed” features out of the way as was possible, and to make this just a handy look-into book for everyday folks (such a book as I have longed for for my own use) pronunciation, grammar-classing, and such like devices of the weary big-books were deemed superfluous and dropt. You will have to go to them, anyway, on some subjects which this book treats briefly—why tire you beforehand?—W. H. B.
Authorities Consulted
New International Encyclopedia Standard Dictionary Cole’s “Encyclopedia of Dry Goods” Giles’ “History of Cutting in England” Planche’s “History of Costume” Mrs. Earle’s “Two Centuries of Costume in America”, “Costume of Colonial Days”, etc. Mrs. Aria’s “Costume: Fanciful, Historical and Theatrical” Mitchell’s “New Standard Coat System” Croonborg’s “Supreme System for Men’s Garments” Baker’s “Clothes Dictionary” Beck’s “Gloves: Their Annals and Associations” Boutell’s “Arms and Armour” Rimmel’s “The Book of Perfumes” Edwards’ “History and Poetry of Finger Rings” Hamersly’s “Naval Encyclopedia” “Clothes and the Man” by the “Major” of Today “The Complete Bachelor” by the author of the “As Seen by Him” papers Johnston’s “Clans and Their Tartans” Farmer’s “Americanisms, Old and New”
U. S. War Dept. General Orders No. 169, Aug. 14, 1907, et seq. (Uniform Regulations) U. S. Navy Dept. Uniform Regulations, 1905 U. S. Marine Corps Uniform Regulations, 1908 U. S. Interior Dept. Bureau of Forestry Uniform Regulations U. S. Treasury Dept., Circular No. 3, Customs Officer’s Uniforms, Jan. 3, 1905 U. S. Treasury Dept. Revised Regulations, Uniforms U. S. Revenue Cutter Service, 1900, et seq. U. S. State Dept. Report on Silk and Silk Manufactures (Cowdin) New York City Police Dept. Manual, 1905 New York City Fire Dept. Regulations, 1905 Chicago Police Dept. Uniform Regulations Chicago Fire Dept. Uniform Regulations
“Sartorial Art Journal” “American Tailor and Cutter” “American Gentleman” “Daily Trade Record” “Apparel Gazette” “The Haberdasher”
“Clothier and Furnisher” “American Hatter” “American Silk Trade Journal” “Dry Goods Economist” “Jeweler’s Circular” “Boot and Shoe Recorder” “Fibre and Fabric” and other trade journals
Many reference books and other books not specially consulted for this purpose
Various Government reports not separately credited
Numerous trade catalogs, brochures, etc.
Personal Acknowledgments
In recognition of interest and assistance rendered in the matter of definitions, etc.:
S. S. Paupst, ex-secretary International Custom Cutters’ Association of America, Cleveland
John A. Carlstrom, ex-president International Custom Cutters’ Association of America, author of “Proportions of the Human Form” and other works on tailoring, New York
Samuel Dreyer, of Alschuler, Dreyer & Co., clothing manufacturers, Chicago
Globe Woolen Co., New York
Schnabel Bros., woolens, New York
Regal Shoe Co., East Whitman, Mass.
J. Harry Selz, of Selz, Schwab & Co., shoemakers, Chicago
The Crofut & Knapp Co., hat manufacturers, New York
Spear & Co., cap manufacturers, New York
Members of various independent military companies (in most instances, the commanding officer) for matter in appendix
While particular and grateful acknowledgment is due to fellow workers in the clothing and dry goods trades, from whom the argot and lingo of the trade emanates and becomes, finally, “good English”
Dictionary
A
=A 1=—(=1=) of first quality; (=2=) entitled to unlimited credit.
=A la mode=—in style; according to the vogue.
=Aba=—(=1=) a very primitiv garment worn in Northern Africa, consisting of a square of heavy woolen cloth, folded, with openings for head and arms and worn after the manner of a coat or tunic; (=2=) a sort of overcoat of rough brown material open in front, with wide sleeves terminating at the elbow, worn in Persia. (Also called Abayeh.)
=Abb=—see Wool.
=Abdominal band=—an elastic bandage of knit wool, or other material, worn over the stomach for general protection in cold weather, or as a supporter or reducer.
=Abdominal guard=—a sort of suspensory (qv) having a metal or sole leather protectiv piece with elastic straps, worn by football players, wrestlers, etc.
=Academic gowns=—the loose, flowing garments worn by students and professors at certain universities on certain occasions.
=Acid tannage=—a quick process of preparing leather for use, by immersion in acids instead of the slower salt and bark preparations, and requiring but 4 to 7 days to put the leather on the market.
=Acid test=—a term generally employed to designate a means of determining the quality of anything, fabrics, for instance; as testing the color of indigo with a mixture of acetic and sulfuric acids; for more exhaustiv explanation see any good encyclopedia. See also Boiling-out t.
=Acorn=—(=1=) an ornamental end-tag for military hat cords, slings, etc.; (=2=) an embroidered device representing rank, corps, etc., usually placed on caps, collars, etc., of military uniforms.
=Actual measures=—tailoring term meaning no allowances for extra roominess or any deviation from the usual practise.
=Ad=—easiest spoken and written diminutiv of advertisement, but senseless in the latter case, advt. being preferable.
=Adhesiv plaster=—see Sticking p.
=Admiral’s uniform=—see Special full dress, Full dress, Dress, Service dress, Evening dress, Mess dress, Undress; see also variations.
=Adonis=—see Wig.
=Advertisement=—a statement of business fact, customarily with one or more loop-holes.
=Advertisement writer=—a power in, for and against business in proportion as he takes himself seriously or jocosely, appreciates or undervalues his business status, and strives toward certain definit ends or fritters time away; and yet, good or otherwise, one who seems to take perpetual personal offense at the suggestions of “the old man”.
=Aesthetic=—(=1=) daintily nice; finical; affecting a love of the beautiful; (=2=) the beautiful itself.
=After-pressing=—in clothing manufacture, the final pressing-off given to finisht garments; a careful, painstaking operation during which the niceties of shape omitted during first pressing (qv) are given to the garment.
=Agraf=—an ornamental loop, clasp or lock. (=Agraffe.=)
=Aigret=—a tuft of feathers. (=Aigrette.=)
=Aiguilet=—an ornamental festoon or series of loopt gold cords, worn by general officers of the army, marine corps, etc., with full dress and special dress uniforms; attacht to right shoulder passing over the shoulder, around and under the arm and across the right breast, attaching to one of the top buttons of the coat as prescribed. (=Aiguilette.=)
=Air-jacket=—a garment, usually of rubber, capable of being inflated and used as a life preserver.
=Airs=—putting on; making believe; snobbery.
=Alamode=—a plain, soft, glossy silk of colonial days, somewhat like surah-s, variously used, but especially for linings.
=Alapaca=—corruption of alpaca (qv).
=Alaska=—a cloth-topt rubber overshoe with a large tongue covering the instep.
=Alaska seal=—the most uniformly good of the various fur seals; trade term for “finest grade”.
=Alb=—a linen vestment, often richly trimmed, reaching to the ankles, worn by priests over the cassock and amice, having close sleeves and girded at the waist.
=Albert=—see Prince A.
=Albert cloth=—general term for reversible all-wool materials, each side of different colors, and so finisht that no lining is required, used chiefly for overcoats; better known as “golf cloth”, “plaid back covert”, etc.
=Alexis=—a bag shaped cap, usually of fur, rounded at the top.
=Alforjas=—a sort of double wallet serving for saddlebags, but more frequently carried slung across the shoulder; usually of canvas. (Spanish.)
=Alizarin=—an absolutely fast-color dye substance, formerly obtained from madder root, but now obtained in large quantities from anthracene, a coal-tar product. (=Alizarine.=)
=All wool=—literally, fabrics composed entirely of wool—sheep’s wool; but lately and not too honestly used in connection with fabrics having an admixture of shoddy or garnetted yarns or having “decorations” of silk or mercerized cotton, for which conditions the term “commercially all-wool” has been suggested as less accusiv to sensitiv consciences and as equally deceptiv to the buyer. Alackaday!
=All-wool-and-a-yard-wide=—a Yankee simile for thoro-going genuineness.
=All-wool-yard-wide-and-an-inch-thick=—familiar or jocular term for good quality.
=Allapine=—a woolen fabric used for men’s wear in early part of the 18th century.
=Alligator leather=—the tanned hide of the alligator, characterized by its peculiar plate-like markings and its enormous durability; used to some extent for shoe leather but more generally for traveling luggage, pocket books, etc.
=Allonge=—see Wig.
=Alpaca=—(=1=) the wooly hair of a South American animal of the camel family, first manufactured into fabrics by Sir Titus Salt, a worsted spinner at Liverpool; (=2=) a thin, glistening, plain-woven, double-fold fabric, usually with a fine cotton or linen warp, used for summer coats, linings, etc.
=Alpargatas=—low, thick-soled sandals tied around the ankles with gay ribbons, worn by Castalian peasants. Also called espardènas.
=Alpine hat=—see Fedora.
=Alteration hand=—in tailoring, a bushelman; one who alters garments to make them agree with the pattern or to better fit the customer.
=Alterations=—(=1=) the sine qua non of a “perfect fit”, and eke items of expense to the tailor; (=2=) makeshifts of the impecunious to force garments into presentability for another season.
=Amana goods=—general term for flannels, calicos, jeans, stocking yarns, etc., manufactured by the Amana Community or Society of True Inspiration, a religious order centering principally at (and in other towns about) Amana, Tabor Co., Iowa. Characteristics of these goods are stoutness, simplicity and durability.
=Amber=—a fossilized resin of yellowish color, used for jewelry, cigar holders, mouthpieces, etc.
=Ambergris=—a substance generated by the spermaceti whale and found floating on the sea or washt ashore, used in the blending of certain perfumes and valued for an ethereal fragrance imparted thereto.
=American shoulders=—“Epauls Americaine”, an appellation given to wadded shoulders in France.
=Americans=—trade term for cloths produced by any of the many mills comprising the great concern known as the American Woolen Company.
=Amice=—an embroidered ecclesiastical collar of fine white linen attacht to a hood.
=Ammunition bag=—a b. or pouch of waterproof canvas or duck, carried suspended by a strap from the shoulders; also used as lunch b., for small luggage, etc.
=Ammunition belt=—see Cartridge b.
=Amulet=—a charm, often of precious metals and gems, worn around the neck as a preventiv of ills, enchantments, accidents, etc.
=Anderson’s=—trade diminutiv for the fine ginghams manufactured by David & John Anderson, Glasgow, Scotland.
=Anglesea=—trade name for a light, thinnish curl given to felt hat brims; compare D’Orsay.
=Anglican cassock=—differing from Latin c. in that it is double-breasted without buttons, the cincture or girdle being knotted behind the hip.
=Angola=—a thick, soft wooly overcoating.
=Angora=—(=1=) the hair or wool of the Angora goat of Asia Minor, from which is woven the mohair fabrics of commerce. A. wool is classified as combing, carding and coarse, and again subdivided into about ten other grades. See Wool; (=2=) also, loosely, any fabric woven of A. wool.
=Anilin dye=—any dye stuff derived from coal tar; such dyes are permanent on silk and wool, but are fugitiv on fabrics of vegetable fiber. (=Aniline.=) See Alizarin dye.
=Ankle boot=—(=1=) a heavy rubber shoe reaching to the ankle for wear over (lumbermen’s) heavy wool socks; (=2=) an old name for shoes.
=Ankle length=—trade term for undergarments reaching to the ankles.
=Ankle support=—a device of leather, metal or fiber for the support of weak ankles, worn either inside or outside the stocking, but inside the shoe, by athletes, children and people with weak ankles.
=Annapolis uniform=—see Cadet u.
=Anthropometry=—man-measurement; an essential tailoring study.
=Apple-pie-order=—in excellent condition; fine shape; neat and trim.
=Apprentice=—one who serves under another to learn a trade, art or profession, especially when indentured; usually a minor.
=Apron=—(=1=) a sort of loose overgarment, variously made, of fabric, leather, etc., worn to protect one’s clothes while at work; (=2=) the curtain or inside waist lining of trousers; (=3=) a sort of light drapery worn in hot countries around a hat or cap, covering the neck (see Havelock); (=4=) part of the regalia of certain secret societies; (=5=) a livery lap robe.
=Apron checks=—gingham woven in small, plain square checks.
=Apron overalls=—a style of o. made with a shield or apron covering breast of wearer.
=Apron supporter=—a sort of belt or adjustable strap for holding aprons (waiters, et al.) in place without slipping.
=Arch support=—a mechanical device made of metal or leather, or both, worn inside the shoe, immediately under the arch of the foot and conforming to the shape of the foot at this point, used as a support to prevent the falling of the arch or support a flat foot.
=Arctics=—warm-lined waterproof overshoes, usually with rubber soles and cloth tops, fastening with one or more buckles.
=Arkansaw toothpick=—see Bowie knife.
=Arm band=—an elastic band similar to a woman’s round garter, worn to hold up shirt sleeves.
=Arm-head=—see Shoulder h.
=Arm-hole=—the opening in a coat or shirt to which the sleeve is joined; the arm opening in a sleeveless waistcoat; the scye (qv).
=Arm-pit=—the axilla or cavity under the arm; compare Arm-hole and Scye.
=Arm-scye=—see Scye.
=Armenian cloak=—a fashionable overgarment of 1851, composed of one piece of cloth (except for the sewed-on wide turnover collar) and with no seams except the underarm seam of sleeve and the underarm body-join, the collar and front edges trimmed with velvet or wide braid, and the garment fastened at the neck with cord and tassels.
=Armistice cloth=—an effect in color combining; a sort of worsted cloth, variant of Queen’s mourning c. and of Coronation c., exhibiting Boer orange, royal blue and black with occasionally white or red; appeared about the time of conclusion of Boer war and named in commemoration thereof.
=Armlet=—(=1=) an ornamental band of classic times; (=2=) an elastic used for holding up shirt sleeves; (=3=) a piece of ancient armor.
=Armor=—defensiv paraphernalia worn by the knights and soldiery of medieval times and now manufactured for the benefit of those manufacturing an ancestry. English a. since the Norman conquest may be divided into 4 great groups: (=1=) mail a., worn until 1300; (=2=) mixt mail and plate a., worn from say 1301 to say 1410; (=3=) plate a., worn from about 1410 to almost 1600; (=4=) half a. (partial—these were the days they were learning to do without it) worn until say 1700. If interested further consult encyclopedia or other authoritativ work on the subject.
=Armozine=—a strong corded silk once used for waistcoats.
=Armure=—any cloth woven in miniature imitation of feudal metal armor-plates, heraldic devices, diamonds, birdseye and seeded effects; specifically (1) a twilled or cross-twilled fabric of silk or wool; (2) a manner of setting up loom harnesses to produce the wanted weave. The principal “armures” are (a) taffeta or 2 harness, forming a single interlacement; (b) serge or 3 harness; (c) twill or Batavia, 4 harness; and (d) satteen, 5 or more harnesses.
=Army and navy brushes=—better known as military b. (qv).
=Army belt=—a waist b. of stuft russet leather or pigskin, with detachable slings of same, worn by all officers (except chaplains) under the dress coat and overcoat and outside the service coat. In the field, cross belts over the shoulders for carrying saber and pistol are authorized. A b. of black webbing with detachable slings of stuft russet leather or pigskin may be worn under the dress coat. Full dress slings worn with full dress uniform, and russet or pigskin with all others.
=Army brogan=—see Brogan.
=Army cap=—see Dress c., Service c., White c., Full dress c.
=Army facings=—see Officers’ f.
=Army hat=—see Service h.
=Army helmet=—for officers and enlisted men, of white and khaki-colored materials; conforming to pattern in quartermaster’s dept.; worn in lieu of service cap with the service uniform on garrison duty and as otherwise prescribed; recently discontinued.
=Army leggings=—for officers, of stuft russet leather of strapputtee pattern; for enlisted men, of cotton, duck or canvas, laced, of the color of the service uniform.
=Army stripes=—see Trousers s.
=Army officers’ cape=—a circular c. of dark blue cloth reaching to the tips of the fingers, with a rolling collar of black velvet and closing at the throat with a long loop. Lined as follows: general officers and officers of staff corps and departments, dark blue; infantry officers, light blue; artillery officers, scarlet; cavalry officers, yellow. May be worn by all officers when not on duty with troops under arms.
=Army overcoat=—for officers: a double-breasted ulster of olive-drab woolen material, closing with 5 large horn buttons; deep standing collar; a large vertical pocket, opening thru lining, with outer flap, on each side; deep center vent; coat to reach 8 to 10 inches below knee, with back belt let into side seams, buttoning behind; a detachable hood of same material; bands of black braid on sleeves and other insignia according to rank. For enlisted men: of olive-drab woolen material, the general design and cut same as officers’ overcoats, bronze buttons.
=Army shoes=—for enlisted men: of black calfskin, blucher style for dress; of stufft russet grain calf, for marching; of russet leather, blucher style, for garrison; of brown cotton duck for barracks wear. For officers, high shoes of black calf, black enamel or black patent leather or of stuft russet leather.
=Army trunk=—any t. designed for army (or navy) officers’ use, commonly provided with trays and compartments for saber, hats, shoes, in addition to the usual provisions for suits of clothes, underwear, etc.
=Army uniforms=—see Full dress, Dress u., Service u., Fatigue u., et var; also general orders No. 169, August 14, 1907, et seq.
=Arrowhead=—same as Crowsfoot (qv).
=Art fiber silk=—proprietary term for artificial or wood s. (also called art s.), and articles made therefrom. See Artificial s.
=Art silk=—see Artificial s.
=Articles=—cant for a suit of clothes.
=Artificial silk=—a lustrous textil fabric, largely used for neckwear, chemically produced from wood cellulose, and then dyed, spun, and woven or knit; is easily injured by dampness or wet; its strength is said to be about 68% of that of pure s. and of about the same elasticity. Also called variously Art s., Textil(e) s., Wool s., etc.
=Artillery pocket=—the deadly hip p.
=Artillery uniform=—see Full dress, Dress u., Service u., Fatigue u., et var.
=As had=—as before; up to quality of previous purchases.
=As is=—as it stands; not perfect; not guaranteed; without liability for defects.
=Asbestos=—an excellent material for grave clothes.
=Ascot=—a cravat or neck dressing to be tied as a puff, once-over, waterfall, etc.
=Assabet=—a well-known American make of flannel (qv).
=Astrakan=—a woolen or silk material with a long and closely curled pile in imitation of the fur of that name. See below.
=Astrakhan fur=—the pelts of young lambs from the country of that name, usually black and very curly; used for making collars, muffs, coats, etc.
=Atef crown=—a high, conical headpiece or diadem of mythological symbolism; also worn by certain kings on ceremonial occasions.
=Athletic pants=—loose cotton knee trousers or trunks, with a fly or with elastic waistband.
=Athletic shirt=—a loose cotton s., cut low in the neck and either with deep open armholes or with short loose shoulder sleeves.
=Athletic underwear=—general name for light, loose undergarments; drawers usually cut knee length; shirts usually low neck and sleeveless, sometimes with deep armholes.
=Atlas=—a light, half-silk fabric glost on one side, chiefly used for linings.