Part 19
=Reinforced=—strengthened by extra layers, strips, welts, gussets or other device of cloth or other material for purposes of strength, wear, etc.
=Rejects=—trade term for goods rejected for imperfections or for not coming up to standard.
=Remnant=—any odd length or quantity remaining unsold.
=Rentering=—tailor’s term for the process of hiding a seam, the stitches themselves being hidden. A plain seam is first sewn to give strength; this is first stretcht open until the sewing is exposed, when a stitch close to the seam is taken, catching but a trifle of the material on one part and a similar part on the other side of the seam, the needle coming out close to the part where it last went in. The seam is next prest out and while the steam is still in the cloth, the nap along it is prickt with a needle point and the nap finally brusht into place.
=Repairing=—mending, of course.
=Repellent=—a sort of waterproof cloth of wool, wool-and-cotton or all-cotton.
=Reserve stock=—merchandise carried in stock-room or warehouse awaiting transferrence to the selling department. Compare Forward s.
=Resist dyeing=—a process in textil production based on the antipathy of tannic acid to many common dyestuffs; consisting, briefly, in dyeing (cotton, silk, worsted and woolen) yarn in the desired colors and then saturating them in a bath of tannic acid and antimony with an after treatment of tin crystals; the prepared yarns are then woven, according to pattern to be produced, in with regular or “gray” yarn, the resulting fabric being then dyed in the piece, emerging with the prepared yarns showing up in their original colors, in contrast to the “piece dyed” yarn. Compare Batik, Discharge printing, Extracted, Tied-and-dried, Cross dyed, etc.
=Retired officer’s uniform=—(=army=) generally, that of his rank when in service, but without certain insignia; they may, at their option, wear the pattern of u. which was prescribed at the time of their retirement, but cannot combine the earlier with the later; (=navy=) not required to have any other than service dress, if ordered to duty.
=Retting=—rotting; a process of separating the woody core from the flax fibers preparatory to the operations of spinning, etc; the three principal methods being (1) dew retting, (2) pool retting and (3) retting in running water.
=Returnable=—privilege allowed customers of bringing back purchases for exchange or refund.
=Revamp=—to furnish a shoe (boot, etc.), with a new vamp or upper; to mend; to patch up.
=Revenue cutter service cap=—for officers, of dark blue cloth, having a flat top one-fourth to one-half wider than the base, the sides 2½ to 3 inches high, with a band of lustrous black mohair, and a visor of black patent leather except for captains, whose caps shall have visors of cloth decorated with gold soutache, oak leaves and acorns; service buttons, insignia, etc., per regulations. White caps of same pattern as blue c. Similar caps for cadets and enlisted men.
=Revenue cutter service overcoat=—for officers, a double-breasted ulster of smooth dark blue cloth, reaching to 9 to 12 inches from the ground, and with deep rolling collar, two rows of 7 plain black buttons on each breast spaced equidistant from knee to throat, belt of same material, and hood of same material for night wear or foul weather; marks, insignia and ornamentation as prescribed. For enlisted men, a similar coat, but reaching only to the knee. For cadets a coat similar to that for officers.
=Revenue cutter service uniforms=—see Dress, Full dress, Service dress, Social full dress, et var.
=Rever=—a turned back lapel or cuff.
=Reverse twist=—yarns twisted to the left. (Woolen trade.) See Regular t.
=Reversible vest=—a waistcoat (vest) made of two fabrics, usually one dark and one light or one quiet and one fancy, either side of which could be worn exposed to suit the occasion; worn to a limited extent in the last ten years of the last century and recently resurrected. See Vestwo.
=Revolver=—slang terms are numerous: five-shooter and six-shooter, meat in the pot, blue lightning, peace-maker, Mr. Speaker, black-eyed Susan, pill box, my unconverted friend, barker, persuader, etc.
=Rhadame=—see Satin r.
=Rhea=—see Ramie.
=Rheumatism ring=—a r. of magnetic iron, or of zinc and copper, supposed to be a fetich against aches and pains.
=Rhingraves=—breeches worn by French courtiers some centuries ago, made wholly by loops of ribbon.
=Rib=—a ridge or cord formed in the groundwork of a fabric, emphasized on the face.
=Riband=—old spelling of ribbon.
=Ribbed=—woven, knitted or markt with ribs, cords or ridges, either structurally or in finishing.
=Ribbed Norfolk=—name given to a N. jacket (1908) having a continuous set of plaits around the body from yoke to waist, the yoke or upper part and skirt or down part being plain. See also “Stroke coat”.
=Ribbon=—a narrow band or selvaged strip of silk or velvet. Imagine men nowadays wearing ribbons in quantity—yet they did centuries ago!
=Ribbon chopper=—fresh term for a salesman in the r. department of a retail store.
=Ride=—when your tie crawls over your shirt collar, that’s it.
=Riding breeches=—baggy b. with re-enforced seat, and with cuffs below the knees reaching often below the calf.
=Riding cloths=—general term for fabrics used for r. breeches, cavalry uniforms, etc., as covert, whipcord, khaki, olive-drab worsted, serge, etc.
=Riding coat=—a single-breasted frock c. with short, full skirts.
=Riding cuffs=—leather c. buckling closely around the wrists or over the coat sleeves; often much ornamented; worn chiefly by plainsmen on horseback.
=Riding trousers=—plain t., with but little leg shape, strapped beneath the shoe, and with re-enforced seat.
=Riding whip=—a crop.
=Rigby cloth=—a sort of waterproof c., chemically treated by the “Rigby” process.
=Right dress=—the wrong way. See Dress.
=Right twill=—weaving term indicating that the direction of the rib (as of serge, cheviot, etc.) leads from the bottom (goods held lengthwise) upwardly to the right. See Left t.
=Rimless spectacles=—same as frameless s.
=Ring=—finger frivolity.
=Rip=—a tear.
=Rip=—a pannier or basket for carrying fish.
=Rip pocket=—term occasionally used for jetted p. (qv).
=Rippling=—the process of removing the seeds from flax, preparatory to the spinning processes.
=Rise=—tailor’s term, meaning, from fork (of trousers) to waistline.
=River shoe=—see Lumbermen’s s.
=Roacht=—curved upwardly. (=Roached.=)
=Roanoke=—a sort of wampum of West Indian shells; currency of early colonial days.
=Roast beef dress=—English naval slang for full uniform.
=Robe=—a drest Buffalo skin.
=Robe de Calvin=—the Geneva gown (qv).
=Robe de chambre=—a dressing gown or informal morning costume for sybarites.
=Robe de nuit=—plain night gown.
=Robe maker=—a m. of official and ceremonial robes and accessories.
=Rochet=—a close-fitting vestment of linen, somewhat like a short alb or a surplice with tight sleeves; worn by bishops, abbots and certain privileged canons.
=Rocking last=—trade term for shoes built with soles curved or turning up from the ground. See Flat l.
=Roll collar=—a long c. without peak or notch; a shawl c.
=Rolled gold=—technically, a compound plate having a gold face and a back, or an interior filling, of baser metal; largely used for cheap jewelry. Compare G. filled, G. plated, etc.
=Roller towel=—toweling sewed together at the ends and hung upon a roller, usually found in offices and shops.
=Rolling collar=—(1) soft, not stiffened by haircloth; (2) shawl c.; (3) a Prussian c.
=Roman gold=—satin finisht. See Etruscan g.
=Roman stripes=—trade term for plain, flat, transverse stripes of varying widths and bright contrasting colors, occasionally popular in neckwear silks.
=Rompers=—general term for one-piece overgarments worn by very young children at play for protection of their better clothes.
=Rondache=—a round, Highland defensiv target or shield (obsolete).
=Roof=—a hat.
=Roof test=—see Exposure t.
=Room=—trade term used by clothing manufacturers, denoting an allowance or addition to size, particularly across the chest and blades, over regular patterns, when making up cheap, insubstantial fabrics, such allowance being made to offset strain and give seemingly better wear to the garment.
=Rope-stitch=—in tailoring a heavier s. than usual,—stouter silk being used, the stitches longer and not so tightly drawn; employed mostly on fancy waistcoats.
=Roquelaure=—“a short abridgment or compendium of a cloak, which is dedicated to the Duke of Roquelaure”. A cloak without hood.
=Rosary=—a string of beads, for counting a series of prayers, used by Roman Catholics, Mahommedans, Buddhists, etc.
=Rose cutting=—term for small diamonds (see Chip) having a flat base with a hemispherical or low pyramidal upper surface covered with small and generally irregular facets.
=Rose diamond=—a splinter. See above.
=Roseberry cloth=—a light-weight, closely woven, mercerized, waterproof, lustrous cotton fabric, having a fine round cord weftwise of the goods, resembling fine repps, employed for summer automobile garments, raincoats, hunting and fishing capes, etc. A similar cloth, rather heavier, is known as burberry cloth.
=Rostrum=—facetious for tailor’s block.
=Rotten Row=—a drive in Hyde Park, London: a resort of the fashionable; from le route de roi (the rout of the king).
=Rotting=—see Retting.
=Rough-and-ready=—(1) hat trade term for coarse straws; (2) any garment or article of unusually stout and durable construction and quality; (3) a favorit plug “chewing”.
=Rough leather=—simple undrest l., as that for shoe soles.
=Rough rider=—(1) name freely applied to any article of apparel possessing a rough-and-ready military appearance; (2) name of a famous regiment in the Spanish-American war.
=Rough rounding=—the (machine) process of trimming off and accurately shaping the sole of a shoe.
=Round cuffs=—detachable shirt c. that button over onto their opposit ends, now being rapidly superseded by link c. (qv).
=Round hat=—(1) the plain h. worn during Cromwell’s dictatorship; also called Puritan h.; (2) any modern h. resembling or of similar plainness.
=Round seam=—(glove term) the two edges are placed together and sewed over and over; used only with thin, tough, elastic leathers; also called over-s. and cable s.
=Round shouldered=—the back rounded or the shoulders stooping.
=Roundabout=—a short, single-breasted cutaway sack coat or jacket reaching to the waist, worn by boys and young men in the 40’s; later by sailors, mechanics, etc.
=Rounding=—in hat making, the cutting of brims to the desired pattern.
=Rounding gauge=—a g. for cutting hat brims.
=Rounding jack=—a stand or block on which a hat is held while being trimmed round.
=Roundsman’s uniform=—see Police u.
=Rove=—a slightly twisted sliver of silk, wool, cotton or other fiber; a slub.
=Rove=—to join and elongate the slivers of wool, silk or fiber in carding; to draw into thread; to ravel.
=Roving=—the operation of giving the first twist to thread by machinery. See Drawing.
=Roving frame=—a slubbing machine.
=Roving machine=—a machine for winding rovings onto bobbins.
=Rowel=—the wheel of a spur (qv).
=Rowing shirt=—a low-necked s. with very large, deep armholes.
=Royal bird=—see Wig.
=Royale=—a style of chin whisker, same as Imperial (qv).
=Rub stick=—a shoemaker’s tool for finishing the bottoms of soles.
=Rubber apron=—a sort of apron worn by icemen, carriage washers, dairymen, etc.
=Rubber cloth=—(1) usually cotton sheeting or drilling with a coating of rubber on one side; used for mackintoshes and sometimes for interlining ulsters; (2) a heavy cotton fabric coated on one side with a composition of rubber, usually stampt in imitation of various leathers and employed in cheap hand luggage, carriage tops, etc.
=Rubber heels=—lifts attacht to shoe heels for ease in walking; also called sneakers.
=Rubber tissue=—a thin, gummy substance used to save cost of sewing; it unites cloth on being heated and is most used for trousers hems.
=Rubbering=—the man who is looking thru this book for something shocking that isn’t here.
=Rubberized=—trade term for waterproof fabrics having one side of silk or other textil fabric and the other of rubber; also for double-faced fabrics with a center of rubber.
=Rubbers=—see Overshoes.
=Rubbing gloves=—see Bath mittens—quite similar.
=Rubbing strap=—a long, narrow band of knitted wool, terry toweling, etc., for use in the bath—it reaches the back. Also called Bath s.
=Ruck sack=—a form of pack used by mountain climbers in the Alps and elsewhere.
=Rucked=—wrinkled, crumpled. (=Ruckt= preferable.)
=Ruff=—a plaited, crimpt or fluted collar or frill, especially a very broad, full and stiffly starcht one.
=Ruffles=—we wore them once on shirt-fronts, at our wrists, and elsewhere—and we might do worse today.
=Rug=—a heavy shawl carried by travelers as protection against cold.
=Rugby toe=—one of the numerous shoemaking terms for a medium narrow t.
=Rumchunder=—an India silk stuff.
=Rummage sale=—a bargain sale of truck and odds and ends.
=Rumple=—to wrinkle or muss.
=Run=—a slipt thread or threads in underwear, hosiery, gloves or other article of similar fabric, resulting in a progressiv widening and lengthening of the damage or “run”.
=Runner=—a name applied to a certain kind of calf upper leathers, a runner being a grown-up calf or heifer; the term calfskin being applied to a skin that would not measure over fourteen square feet—while a runner might measure three or four feet more.
=Running pants=—shapeless, light cotton things not reaching to the knees.
=Running shoes=—low, soft leather s. with light turned sole, with or without cleats.
=Running stitch=—a tailoring s. made in a straight line, one in front of another, of various lengths and distances apart, but averaging about ¼ inch each in length; used mostly for basting sleeve linings for try-on.
=Rush order=—to be gotten out ahead of the usual course.
=Russet=—coarse, peasant-loomed cloth used in homemade garments, originally of reddish brown color, tho name clings to variations.
=Russia leather=—a fine quality of calf l. tanned in willow bark, dyed in cochineal and sandalwood, finisht with stannic chlorid and drest with birch-bark oil, having a brownish red color, a fragrant odor and the properties of resisting insects, moisture, etc.
=Russian braid=—soutache (qv).
=Russian collar=—a variety of Prussian c. (qv) applied to ulsters, etc.—standing higher, turned down, and meeting in front; also called Cadet c.
=Russian duck=—a fine quality of white linen canvas, used for hot-weather garments.
=Russian marmot=—a fur used mostly for coat linings.
=Russian overcoat=—same as cadet o.
=Russian sable=—an animal of the weazel family, living in the extreme north of Russia, highly prized for its rich brown fur. See Sable.
=Russian turban=—a cap with a high round crown and a double band forming the sides.
=Russian vest=—a double-breasted waistcoat, buttoning close up to the neck, worn in cold weather.
=Rusty=—said of black which is faded or shows signs of fading.
=Ryder=—cant for cloak.
S
=Saber=—a heavy sword with one cutting edge and a thick back.
=Saber belt=—(=army=) a waist b. with detachable slings, to be worn outside the full dress coat, by all officers except chaplains. For general officers, except brigadier generals, of red russia leather with gold embroidery and russia leather slings; for brigadier generals, of black webbing with russia leather slings; for all field officers, of black enameled leather with a stripe of gold lace; for officers of the staff corps and departments, except engineers, below rank of field officer, of black enameled leather with four stripes of black-and-gold; for officers of cavalry, artillery and infantry, of black enameled leather with four stripes of gold wire lace interwoven with silk of the color of the arm of the service; for officers of engineers, same as for officers of artillery.
=Saber knot=—(=army=) for full dress and dress occasions of heavy gold cord with acorn ends, for general officers; and of gold and black mixt for all other officers, except chaplains; on other occasions, of plaited russet leather; all according to regulation pattern.
=Sable=—an animal related to and not unlike the marten, yielding a dark fur highly prized for winter garments.
=Sabot=—a rude shoe made of wood, worn by peasants in France and elsewhere.
=Sabretache=—a leather pocket hung from the left side of the sword belt; a popinjay military ornament.
=Sack cloth=—a coarse obsolete material doubtless worn for ostentatious penitence.
=Sack coat=—properly a plain, short c., without skirts, either single or double-breasted, made up of two foreparts and a single or divided back part, and with two or more pockets with in-and-out flaps, tho other varieties of pockets are also employed (as welt, patch, etc.). Also called lounge c. The Norfolk jacket is a variety of sack c., and the Chesterfield overcoat is a true sack c., tho long.
=Sack-frock cutaway=—a 1908 frock coat resembling a walking frock without a frock waist seam, but having a sidebody seam from a cut waistline to the shoulder.
=Sack raglan=—see Raglan.
=Sacque=—an infant’s undershirt.
=Sad-color=—brown or browny.
=Saddle=—a padded or cushioned seat put upon a horse’s back out of mercy for the beast.
=Saddle coat=—a waterproof c. so contrived as to cover wearer, and saddle pommel and cantle; a “pommel slicker”.
=Saddle-piece=—a re-enforcement of the seat and legs of riding breeches, usually of same material, or, occasionally, of leather.
=Saddle seam=—a s. sewn as saddlers sew leather, with edges turned outwardly.
=Sadra=—the sacred surplice worn by Parsees of both sexes from the age of seven; emblematic of the coat of mail worn in ancient times by the Guebers to ward off the attacks of the evil spirit Ahriman.
=Safety-pin=—our first acquaintance with hardware.
=Safety razor=—a scraping apparatus for the timid and thin-skinned.
=Sag=—to lose shape, give way, bag, pull, etc.
=Sagathy=—an obsolete woolen stuff famed for durability.
=Sahara buck=—African deerskin glove leather.
=Sail cloth=—a sort of canvas once popular for stiffening the fronts of coats.
=Sailmaker’s palm=—a variety of mitten or glove used by sailmakers and others in sewing canvas and heavy fabrics; commonly a band of sole leather, fitting around the broad part of the hand, with a thumb-stall, and having a metal thimble attacht to the inner side or palm.
=Sailor collar=—a c. narrow at the front of the neck, reaching back in straight lines over the shoulders and cut straight across at right angles about half way of the shoulder blades, usually as part of a blouse worn by sailors and children; name also given to a detachable linen c. (or of other material) of similar shape, worn by children.
=Sailor knot=—said of a cravat tied as a four-in-hand, but with the k. drawn tight.
=Sailor suit=—a s. for small boys, consisting of a sailor blouse and knee pants. Compare Middy s.
=Sailor’s blouse=—see Naval overshirt.
=Sailor’s trousers=—similar to ordinary t., except that they are made with front falls (qv) and made to bell or flare out at the bottoms; usually with laced back. Also called gun-mouthed t.
=St. Crispin=—patron saint of shoemakers.
=St. Kilda=—a variety of Scotch tweed (from a town of that name).
=Sakcorb studs=—see Boot s.
=Sakkos=—a tight-fitting garment, symbolizing the seamless robe of Christ, worn by Greek metropolitans and Russian bishops.
=Saleslady=—cause of agitation or awe to a masculin customer.
=Salesman=—an individual deserving of a scientific commission to study his peculiarities.
=Sallet=—a variety of helmet.
=Saltaire=—a manufacturing town in England, founded by Sir Titus Salt, a celebrated cloth factor and the discoverer of alpaca.
=Sample=—a tiny bit of cloth seldom of sufficient size to show a complete pattern; a specimen of any article or material.
=Sample book=—a b. containing numbered swatches of cloths, often with fashion plates, and frequently platitudinous eulogistic rhodomontades.
=Sample trunk=—the drummer’s excess baggage.
=Sanatory=—the Dr. Jaeger spelling of sanitary. See Sanitary wool.
=Sandal=—(1) a kind of shoe, consisting usually of a sole only, of leather or other material, but sometimes with a shield for the heel and a cap for the toes, held to the foot by thongs, cords, etc.; (2) a light, fancy slipper; (3) a light, low-cut rubber overshoe.
=Sandalwood=—a peculiarly sensuous, aromatic, oriental perfume distilled from the essential oil of santal (which has also certain pronounced medicinal properties).
=Sandbag=—used by footpads for love taps and lucre.
=Sandown=—a frock overcoat; a sort of Newmarket (qv).
=Sandpapering=—in shoe making, the act or operation of “scouring” or sandpapering the bottoms of shoes by means of a roll covered with sandpaper which is rapidly revolved by power, scouring off the surface of the outer sole as one of the preliminary operations for final finishing of the bottom of a shoe.
=Sandwich brim=—trade term for straw hats having brims of two or more kinds of braid or with an inlay or edging of different color.
=Sanitary wool=—a profit-making name for natural w. undergarments.
=Sans culotte=—literally, a man without breeches; particularly, an anarchist or demagog; loosely, a tatterdemalian.
=Saranac=—general term for buckskin and other leather gloves, tanned grain on, and having a yellow color.
=Sarcanet=—a fine, thin silk fabric, woven by the Saracens originally and much esteemed during the fifteenth to seventeenth centuries for its richness; probably dates to 13th century; more recently used for linings.
=Sarong=—(1) a primitiv garment, consisting of a plain piece of cotton cloth wrapt around the hips and upper legs, worn by natives of the Indian archipelago and elsewhere; (2) the printed cotton cloth sold therefor.
=Sarsenet=—see Sarcanet.
=Sartor=—a patcher, hence a tailor.
=Sartor resartus=—the patcher patcht.
=Sartorial=—pertaining to a tailor or the patching art.
=Sartorial solecism=—(1) the wearing of any garment out of its proper place, at the wrong time or in an incorrect manner, as evening dress in the day time, colored linen with formal attire, etc.; (2) any violation of good form in matters of dress; (3) any exhibition of bad taste or lack of acquaintance with dress usages; (4) any ostentatious display or vulgarity in manner, form or usage, as freak garments, an unconventional manner of wearing a garment, etc., (5) deficient in dignity.
=Sash=—(1) an ornamental band, scarf, strip or belt worn around the waist or over the shoulder, as part of the costume and by military officers and others as badges of distinction; (2) in Oriental countries a long band of fine material wound about the head to form a turban.
=Sash=—(=army=) a long strip of silk trimmed with gold fringe, buff colored for general officers above the grade of brigadier generals, and by them worn across the body from right shoulder to the left side; of same for brigadier generals, and by them worn around the waist tied in a double bow; for chief of artillery, of scarlet silk, tied around the waist.
=Sashoon=—a soft leather pad placed about the leg inside of a boot to protect the limb or aid the fit of the boot.
=Sassiety=—a sassy bunch of upstarts.
=Satchel=—a light handbag for small luggage; a schoolboy’s book bag.
=Sateen=—a fine thread, coarse twilled cotton cloth, of soft texture and glossy finish; used for linings, night shirts, pajamas, etc.; the heavier qualities used for corsets, shoe linings, etc.
=Satin=—a silk fabric of a thick, close texture, with a smooth, glossy surface and dull back, produced by a method of weaving that reduces the number of crossings of filling and warp, the glossy face being obtained by finishing between hot rollers; also made with a cotton back.
=Satin buttonhole=—made as described under buttonhole making but using a fine silk twist and making close, even stitches; also known as flat b. Contrast Gimp b.
=Satin damask=—a s. with a rich flower or arabesque pattern, sometimes raised in velvet pile.
=Satin de chine=—a fine, soft silk fabric used for linings, etc.
=Satin de Lyon=—s. with a croise or ribbed back.
=Satin delaine=—a thin, glossy satin wove woolen cloth.
=Satin duchesse=—a fine quality of